Trekking through fire and ice on Greenland’s 102-mile Arctic Circle Trail

Late on the fourth day hiking the 102-mile Arctic Circle Trail in western Greenland, there was smoke rising from the ground. White tendrils, sometimes columns, rose in all directions from charred soil and wisped out from an 800-foot-tall hummocky, granitic hillside to my left. To the right was the 14-mile-long, string-bean-shaped Lake Amitsorsuaq, the biggest of the...

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