Tucked away in the northeastern corner of DuPont State Forest in Western North Carolina, Stone Mountain is the highest point in the state forest at 3,620 feet. Appropriately named for the exposed granite slab that traverses its summit, Stone Mountain offers a near 270° view of the surrounding terrain to winter hikers. Since the first time I went, nearly 12 years ago, the pines are taking over the summit, so views are harder to come by. Especially in summer, the leaf cover makes it even more difficult. This hike occurred on Monday, February 3, 2020 from 12:00 noon to 2:30pm. Our plan was to take the Rocky Ridge Trail to the Stone Mountain Trail, then on to the summit. Return would be back the same way.

There are two ends to the Rocky Ridge Trail that meet up with the Stone Mountain Trail. The southern end is on Sky Valley Road, is a 3 mile round trip, and rises 660 feet to the summit. The northern end starts on the Old CCC Road very near the junction with Sky Valley Road, adds a mile to the total distance and 500 feet more elevation gain.

The southern Rocky Ridge trailhead has a parking area large enough for a half dozen cars on the left side of Sky Valley Road less than two miles up from Guion Farm. The trail is wide and pleasant, and sandy with an indistinguishable uphill grade. This northeastern section of the state forest is dense woodland with a delightful mix of deciduous and evergreen trees.

You will discover the DuPont State Forest trail system to be quite robust. We reached two trail junctions on the short 1.5-mile hike up Stone Mountain. The first is .4 mile in. The Rocky Ridge Trail bears left and eventually down to the Old CCC Rd. and the Stone Mountain Trail turns right. Then just another tenth mile later, the Switchback Trail bears right and Stone Mountain takes off uphill to the left.

The Stone Mountain Trail begins moderately steep climbing right away and continues uphill until the summit. Unlike the near perfect conditions on the Rocky Ridge Trail, this trail is rocky and rutted from drainage. Just a touch less than a mile in, the trail turns a decidedly northeasterly direction and climbs to a large grassy clearing perhaps two acres in size. Passing through the meadow, we climbed another tenth mile past several large boulders alongside the trail, then began the final climb to the summit.

Those boulders are a nice place to take a breather because the last tenth mile is the steepest. The good news is that it isn’t far as the trail climbs through laurel and rhododendron. Just about the time you think you’ve had enough, you pop out on the summit with large granite outcrops and gnarly wind-swept pines. The summit surface is quite large and flat and affords long-distance views in nearly every direction. Be sure to spend some time exploring the summit. You can walk several hundred feet left or right.

To the left is a northerly view toward Asheville with the Great Craggy and Black Mountains behind. Looking west is the high country of Pisgah National Forest, including the easily identifiable tower-topped Mt. Pisgah. Straight ahead is Pinnacle Mountain with its radio and cell tower. You can also see the clearings in the forest that are the horse farms along Pinnacle Road.

To the right is the most expansive view, stretching far and wide toward South Carolina. There are communications towers barely visible many miles away that sit atop Rich Mountain in Transylvania County. Below you is the southwestern area of DuPont State Forest. When you go, see if you can pick out some of the more notable landmarks.

If you packed a picnic lunch, there are numerous great spots on the granite to sit for awhile and enjoy the picturesque surroundings. The largest of these is to your left, about 200 feet from the initial summit. Just follow the path through the gnarly pines. Speaking of lunch, while on top, we enjoyed following the circuitous path of a lone buzzard hovering on the wind a hundred feet above. Fortunately, his eyes weren’t on us.

The return trip for us was uneventful, but you really must keep your eye on the trail. It is a steep descent with many, many hazards from washout. There are exposed rocks and roots seemingly everywhere, just waiting for their chance to trip you, or worse.

When we got back to the car, the thermometer read 70 degrees. Can you believe that for early February?

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Starting at the former site of George Vanderbilt’s Buck Spring hunting lodge near Mt. Pisgah, this hike crosses the summit of Little Bald Mountain before dropping down the watershed to Pilot Rock, one of the many plutons found within the Pisgah Ranger District. The high country is home to thickets of mountain laurel and rhododendron, while various maples, oaks and pines line the trail as you near Pilot Rock. Ken and I took this picturesque trek on Wednesday, October 19, 2016 beginning at 9:30AM and ending about 1:45PM. Our plan was to take Buck Spring Trail to its meeting with Pilot Rock Trail, visit the pluton, then return to the Laurel Mountain Trail for the finish.

We have previously hiked to Pilot Rock from below. We thought we would try it from above this time. This is one of those oddball trails where the namesake is halfway through the journey.

This hike starts at the Buck Spring Overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway. It’s a simple 500 foot walk from there to the former site of George Vanderbilt’s hunting lodge. Vanderbilt was the wealthy builder and owner of the Biltmore Estate in Asheville. Vanderbilt also kept 471 acres in Buck Springs Gap, about a mile from Pisgah Inn.

Here, Vanderbilt had constructed his popular log hunting lodge. The main lodge had four bedrooms, a breezeway-connected building had two bedroom suites, and the kitchen/dining building was connected to the other two. The site also included a spring house, the stone remnants of which are still visible at the site today. The lodge and outbuildings were razed in 1961 to make room for the Blue Ridge Parkway.

A magnificent view of the lowlands of Pisgah National Forest awaits you from the cliff at the edge of Buck Spring Gap. The downward descent of the ridge of Laurel Mountain marks one of the many pathways that dot this beautiful area. We continued on white-blazed Buck Spring Trail up and over Little Bald Mountain, a short climb to the summit at 5,256 feet.

From that point, it is now a steady descent over 2.5 miles to Pilot Rock 1,300 feet below. Not far below the summit, Buck Spring Trail meets Pilot Rock Trail. The blaze color changes to orange. This trail passes through both mountain laurel and rhododendron forests, much of it very large and mature. Perhaps some of these thickets were even growing when George Vanderbilt was here in the late 19th century. A good portion of the upper reaches of Pilot Rock Trail are under a canopy of these thickets.

Vistas are mostly obscured by trees during the green season, but viewing is better when the leaves are down. Also, look for the occasional rocky outcrop that may offer a glimpse into the wide beyond.

About half way down the fall line, the forest changes from heath to hardwood. Some of the deciduous trees were displaying brilliant crimson and gold colorings on this day in mid-October. The color seemed to be best on the north side of the ridge.

Also, about half way down the trail gets very rocky. You’re entering pluton country. Over the millenia, the granite and shale at this elevation has broken up creating plenty of stumbling hazards for hikers and mountain bikers. Most riders will be carrying their bikes in this area between 4,500 and 3,900 feet.

This view of Pilot Mountain in the distance is one of the few open vistas available along the descent of Pilot Rock Trail.

The descent gets a little steeper and switchbacks become the order of the day. There are more than a dozen. We passed a couple of hikers resting on an outcrop at one of these switchbacks, something we also did later on our way back up.

As we approached Pilot Rock the oaks and maples were really in color now. As you descend the trail, the rock face of Pilot Rock will be on your left. The angle of the open rock is extremely steep. If it is at all wet, especially icy, you probably don’t even want to get on it. It’s a long way down if you slip. Fortunately for us, this day was totally dry.

The views are magnificent. Straight down below you is the route taken by Forest Road 1206, also known as Yellow Gap Road, one of the most popular points of entry into Pisgah Ranger District. Spread out directly ahead is the entire expanse of the Cradle of Forestry, with 6,000 foot peaks on the horizon. The ribbon of the Blue Ridge Parkway cuts across Pisgah Ridge to your right. It was all alight with Autumn hues.

It’s a great place for lunch, but make sure all your gear is secure. I wrapped my pack strap around a low-lying blueberry bush stem to keep it from rolling down the pluton. As we munched on delicious burritos provided by Ken’s wife, we surmised how much stuff is probably laying in the woods directly below the face of Pilot Rock. There are probably entire packs down there, and cellphones, probably trekking poles too.

While we were eating and enjoying the view, a pair of bike riders meandered by. As one of them walked down the rock to say hi, the cleats on his clip-on riding shoes slipped dangerously on the steep rock face. Uh-oh. He managed to catch himself, but decided quickly that wasn’t a good idea and retreated to the safety of the trail. It is steep folks, so be very careful.

After about a half hour enjoying the fabulous view and the gorgeous weather, Ken and I were ready to tackle the climb back up. We took our time, resting occasionally. Once you clear the rocky area it becomes a lot easier.

We decided to mix things up a little on the way back, so we took the Laurel Mountain Connector over to Laurel Mountain Trail rather than returning up and over Little Bald Mountain. The half-mile-long connector trail skirts the east side of the summit of Little Bald.

Once we joined the blue-blazed Laurel Mountain Trail, we were back on the north side of the ridge, and the fall colors burst forth once again. This stretch of LMT back to Buck Spring Overlook is one large watershed. It is full of springs and other drainage that make the roots and boulders loose and slippery. Watch your step.

There are hundreds of little nooks and crannies beneath the large granite boulders that litter the hillside, likely home to all kinds of critters, with and without legs. Moist, bright green moss covers much of the rock, and galax is abundant beside the trail.

About a quarter mile from Buck Spring Overlook, Laurel Mountain Trail rejoins Buck Spring Trail for the final stroll back to the overlook. The parking area is shared with those hiking the Mt. Pisgah Trail, so if you still have some energy left you might want to consider that one too.

In summary, this is a hike of moderate difficulty that will give you a good workout and wonderful views of Pisgah National Forest from Pilot Rock. My favorite season for this hike is Fall because of the colors, but it is also very nice in Spring when the mountain laurel and rhododendron are in bloom. It’s hard to do in winter because access from the Blue Ridge Parkway is usually closed, but you can still get to Pilot Rock from below off of Yellow Gap Road. Give this one a try. I think you’ll like it.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

There aren’t many places in Western North Carolina better for Autumn leaf peeping than the Blue Ridge Parkway. On Monday, October 17, 2016 I set out to demonstrate that by taking a little tour between mileposts 410 and 420. But first I had to get there. I went up the Pisgah Ridge on Scenic Hwy 276, passing the Cradle of Forestry along the way.

I arrived at the Cold Mountain Overlook once on the Parkway, then headed to Pounding Mill Overlook to take care of one of my volunteer jobs. I pick up trash at this overlook on a regular basis. With the Parkway crowded in recent days with other folks out looking for fall color just like me, the litter was more prevalent than normal. Of all things, I even found a baseball among the discarded items at the overlook.

Once done, it was time for some fun. I made stops at Big East Fork, Graveyard Fields, Black Balsam, Fryingpan, Mt. Pisgah and Buck Spring. The maple and oak, sourwood and hickory, poplar and birch, and many, many others were displaying their finest at around 5,000 feet elevation. It was a grand few hours. See what you think of the gallery below. Please feel free to leave your comments below the pictures.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Walking the Blue Ridge Parkway in winter is a great way to get a slow-motion view of the wonderful vistas that whiz by at 45 mph in your car. The Parkway is closed so you don’t have to worry about traffic. The only concern really is perhaps slipping on snow or ice. This latest in the Photo Essay series looks at a 4-mile stretch of the BRP between mileposts 412 and 408.

It starts where Scenic Hwy 276 climbs to meet the Parkway at milepost 412. The Cold Mountain Overlook is right there, and that’s where Ken and I parked. Gates are closed in both directions so the only ways to proceed are by bicycle or on foot. No ice worries on this day, February 17, 2016. A bright sun and 40-ish temperature assured a nice and dry road surface for our trek to Pisgah Inn and beyond.

The cliffs alongside the roadway were another matter. As you will often find this time of year, there were giant icicles (some as long as 10 feet) clinging to the granite above the road bed. As the day progressed and the warming continued, we moved to the far side of the pavement to avoid the melting, plunging spears as they dropped from the crags above and crashed on the pavement.

We passed by Cradle of Forestry Overlook and Pink Beds Overlook and their magnificent long-distance vistas enabling us to see all the way to the Black Mountains and Great Craggy Range northeast of Asheville. In the opposite direction is Looking Glass Rock, glistening in the sunlight from the ice clinging to its sheer face. They say this is how Looking Glass got its name… in winter with the ice shining and glimmering from miles away.

Fryingpan Tunnel is about half way to Pisgah Inn. Enclosed within its dark and damp canopy we did have to watch our step as the thin coating of moisture there had not yet melted. The communications and fire towers were standing tall high above on Fryingpan Mountain. The last overlook before the inn is called Funnel Top and offers a nice view of the Pilot Rock and Slate Rock area of Pisgah National Forest.

When we reached Pisgah Inn we sat on the deck outside the restaurant and enjoyed the magnificent view as we munched our sandwiches and soup. The inn and restaurant are usually open from April through November. Following lunch, we continued past the Mt. Pisgah supply store and on to the picnic grounds, climbing the hill to reach the multi-acre meadow beneath the summit of imposing Mt. Pisgah.

The mountaintops on the north side of Pisgah Ridge still had a coating of rime ice, always the last to feel the warmth of the sun. The black balsams in the Mt. Pisgah watershed are very healthy, their boughs a dark, dark forest green. We turned around at the picnic area for the return, walking a total of 8.5 miles by the time we got back to Hwy 276.

I hope you enjoy these new photos from this visit to the high country along the Blue Ridge Parkway as much as we enjoyed the day. Please feel free to leave your comments below the gallery.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Sometimes things just don’t go exactly as planned. But making the most of what’s available is what sets hiking apart. Everything doesn’t have to go perfectly to still enjoy the day. Such was the case with this hike across the Plott Balsams mountain range from Waterrock Knob on the Blue Ridge Parkway. You’re in rarefied air here, with the entire trail above 5,600 feet, and with magnificent views of the Great Smoky Mountains, the thriving mountain community of Sylva, NC, and even all the way to Mt. Pisgah far to the east. This is rugged terrain that takes you up and down like a rollercoaster, so be prepared for some serious exertion. My pal Ken and I hiked the Plott Balsams on Thursday, October 22, 2015 from 9:45AM to 1:45PM. Our plan was to cross the Plott Balsams from Waterrock Knob to Blackrock. We didn’t quite make it there.

If you’ve never taken the drive on the Blue Ridge Parkway from Asheville to Waterrock Knob, this adventure is worth it simply for that experience. You’re up in the high country, even passing through 6,000 feet at Richland Balsam. The long distance viewing is exceptional, particularly at western overlooks like Cowee Mountains and Deep Gap. The byway meanders in and out, up and down for 50 miles through some of the most spectacular scenery in Western North Carolina.

Waterrock Knob, and its Parkway visitor center is located at milepost 451.2, on the right coming from Asheville. The trailhead for this hike is located at the bottom of the hill, just across the Parkway from the Waterrock Road. Be sure to drive to the top though. Don’t want to cheat yourself out of the splendid view off into the Great Smoky Mountains, including the giant Mt. LeConte and Clingmans Dome. Off to the east you can see the tower that adorns iconic Mt. Pisgah 40 miles away.

There was very little information online about the hike from Waterrock to Blackrock, so Ken and I were mostly hiking blind. We weren’t even sure we had the right trail until we encountered a small, hand-made sign on a post about a hundred yards into the forest from the trailhead. This sign said it was 0.6 mile to Yellow Face and 2.2 miles to Blackrock, the two landmarks we planned on visiting. So it seemed we were in the right place.

This trail across the Plott Balsams Range didn’t waste any time introducing us to rugged alpine hiking, immediately climbing steeply. We went up 350 feet across rugged outcrops and twisty root systems to the summit of Yellow Face Mountain. The views to the east are remarkable here, although at this time of the year the top was covered with the remains of the summer’s wild sticker bushes, somewhat stunting the vantage point. This is no doubt more exciting in Spring, before all the scrub grows.

It is said this trail across the Plotts has been around since the Cherokee, although not as nicely maintained. Beginning in 1997, The Nature Conservancy purchased a 1,600 acre tract securing the Plott Balsams adjacent to the Blue Ridge Parkway. Then, around 2001-2002, the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians donated the Yellow Face Tract to the National Park Service. Sylva’s old watershed was placed in a conservation easement around 2006, securing another thousand acres of public lands in what is now known as Pinnacle Park. The latest link in the chain is the 60-acre Blackrock Ridge, secured in 2010 by the Southern Appalachians Highlands Conservancy. All of these efforts have provided the opportunity for all of us to now enjoy this remarkable trail.

On the back side of Yellow Face you give up all the elevation you just gained. In fact, the 450 foot descent will take you lower than the trailhead at Waterrock. The spruce and northern hardwoods forest changes to birch and ash, with the accompanying color brought on by October’s cooler temperatures.

The trail is lovely here, surrounded by beautiful woods. The loggers apparently also thought so, as this area is mostly new growth forest. Watch for the logging artifacts still found alongside the trail.

Evidence of an old logging camp abounds, with pulley wheels still laying around and clearings that are now used by overnight campers. It was time to climb again, this time a steep 180 feet. We entered rocky outcrop country, tipping us that we may be getting somewhat close to Blackrock. The boulders on the ridge are as large as houses, and afford viewpoints on both sides. We could see directly into downtown Sylva from one overlook (the photo at the top of this post), and from another overlook we could peer into the deep valley between here and the Smokies.

From the top we began the steepest descent yet, sometimes having to crab walk downward because of the pitch of the descent. I just happened to check my GPS which said we had traveled 3.3 miles since the trailhead. Wait! I thought it was only 2.2 miles to Blackrock. So we began to wonder if we missed it. We continued downward until we reached the bottom of the next gap, and saw an equally steep climb ahead of us.

What to do? We were beginning to tire somewhat from the up and down, up and down, so we had to make a decision. Do we make another climb, or do we turn back and see where we missed Blackrock? We chose the latter, unfortunately it turns out, the wrong choice. We never found Blackrock on the way back… simply because we had turned around too soon.

We kept our eyes peeled all the way back for little side trails that perhaps went to Blackrock, but continually came up empty. We happened upon another hiker and asked him if he had been there before. Comparing notes of his memory, and where we had just been, we came to the conclusion that we hadn’t gone far enough. When I got home later and looked at the topographic map above, that also proved that we needed to make that one final steep climb to get to the Blackrock overlook.

This view to the west from the Plott Balsams looks across the colorful valley to the imposing ridge of the Great Smoky Mountains on the horizon.

We learned from the other hiker that the trail goes right across the Blackrock outcrop. There is no spur trail to find, no rhododendron tunnel to break through. We certainly added that to our memory banks for the next time we come back to take care of unfinished business.

Ken and I expressed some disappointment to each other, but still, it had been a challenging hike on a very pleasant day. And we yet had to make that 450 foot climb back up to the Yellow Face summit. We enjoyed our lunch in the shade and quiet of the old logging camp, and made plans already for our next shot at Blackrock. Probably in Spring.

Renourished, it was time for the climb. Slow and easy. One step at a time. Deep and even breathing. I’m definitely not a speed hiker. On steep uphill, I put it in what Ken calls my compound low gear. It takes me awhile, but I get to the top. By now, the sun had passed to the other side of the ridge making views to the east less harsh than morning. I love the Autumn air. It felt refreshing in my lungs.

With our level of fatigue, we made sure to be careful on the downside of Yellow Face. There are plenty of obstacles on the descent that are just waiting to grab a stray step and send you sprawling. Not many switchbacks, the trail pretty much sticks to the fall line of the ridge. When we popped back out on the Parkway we congratulated each other for another safe and enjoyable trek.

Let’s review. Make sure before trying this hike across the Plott Balsams that you have plenty of energy. We did four hours of very strenuous hiking, and didn’t even make it all the way to Blackrock. So plan for at least an additional hour, as well as one more climb and descent if you go all the way. Judging by the topo, that last climb is another 210 feet of rugged, rocky terrain.

There are other trails available in the Waterrock Knob area including one that goes to the 6,280 foot summit, and beyond. Around the Visitor Center there are picnic tables and other amenities ideal for a family outing. Even if you don’t go all the way to Blackrock, you can still have a delightful hike across the Plotts with terrific views all along the way. Despite our disappointment, we still really enjoyed this trail and will certainly be back.

Update April 28, 2017: Time for a seasonal update on the trail to Blackrock, and to tell you that the second time I made it all the way. My brother was visiting from Colorado, so I suggested we go find this overlook on the Plott Balsams Range that I had stopped just short of a couple years ago. What I missed in the final quarter mile last time was a few places with craggy exposure to falling. The trail does quite a bit of rock scrambling on a razor thin ridge, but we managed to get through safely to enjoy the exciting 360° view from the rocky outcrop that is Blackrock Mountain.

Along the way we were treated to a wide assortment of spring wildflowers including the largest aggregation of trout lilies that I have ever encountered. Other blossoms of interest included spring beauties, trillium, chickweed, bluets, violets and a couple varieties of flowering trees. It was still too early in the season for green in the deciduous trees, but the spruce were very nice, and the pathway through the woods was carpeted on each side with very green mountain grass.

Here’s hoping you enjoy the following gallery of photos from our new visit to the Plott Balsams, and that you try to make it out yourself sometime. Please feel free to leave your comments or questions below.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Leaf peepers head to Graveyard Fields in late September for the annual ritual of Autumn color in the high country. Located at mile 418 on the Blue Ridge Parkway, Graveyard Fields is one of the earliest locations to begin the chromatic display, as well as one of the most intense. From the bright red of the blueberry and sumac bushes, to the multi-colored hues of the maple and oak, this is a prime location year in and year out. But don’t limit yourself to Graveyard Fields. There is a 5-mile stretch of the Parkway from mile 416 through mile 421 that is always exceptional for early fall foliage.

I went up there on September 23, 2015 hoping to beat the crowds that flock to this area and was treated to an unusually early color presentation. There was as much color already apparent as there is sometimes 10-15 days later in the season. I first stopped for a view of Cold Mountain when I entered the Parkway from Hwy 276, then proceeded to Pounding Mill Overlook to pick up trash as a volunteer for Friends of the Blue Ridge Parkway. Thank you to the tourists for mostly behaving and not leaving much mess.

Then it was a short, but delightful, drive to the Graveyard Fields pullout. Even at this early hour there were already a dozen or so other vehicles there for the same reason I was. I setup the tripod, took a few shots, then moved on to make room for others. Next stop… Black Balsam Road for the view down into the bowl of Graveyard Fields. The goldenrod was glistening in the morning sun, while the blue of the asters tried its best to match the stunning azure sky.

The most inspiring scene, however, was the ocean of clouds rolling over the Pisgah Ridge and crashing upon mile 420 of the Parkway like so many waves on a surfing beach. I was mesmerized by the experience. The entire valley below the ridge was enveloped in morning fog, roiling to the rim like a witch’s brew only to dissipate upon reaching the bright sunshine bathing the mountaintops.

Next, I went for a hike along the service trail that parallels miles 420 and 419 to peer into that cauldron and get a ground-level view of the prismatic shrubs and ground cover along the pathway. I sat on an outcrop squinting deep into the foggy stew looking for just a glance of Pilot Mountain, knowing it was there, but unable to pierce the shroud. So I munched a snack and was like a child on a beach as each new wave of fog wafted over me.

Following a 3-mile walk I was back in my car heading the way I came, stopping at each overlook along the way, looking for views to the north of the scattered, puffy-white clouds that now accentuated the vistas. There were still a number of wildflowers along the roadway’s edge, hidden behind the guardrails that protect motorists from a fatal plunge. It was definitely what I like to call an “A” day.

I hope you enjoy these new photos from my visit to the high country along the Blue Ridge Parkway as much as I enjoyed the day. Please feel free to leave your comments below the gallery.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

There is a notch between two wildernesses in the Pisgah National Forest high country. Shining Rock Wilderness is to the northeast, and Middle Prong Wilderness is to the west of this pie-shaped cut in the topology. In between are two bald mountaintops that exceed 6,000 feet elevation. To the locals the area is called simply… Black Balsam. The air is fresh (usually), the wildflowers abundant, and the adventure plentiful. Under normal circumstances, the views from these treeless summits are fantastic, oft times exceeding 50 miles. In this report you will learn, however, why this was not a normal circumstance. Join me as I take you high above Pisgah National Forest and the Blue Ridge Parkway to Black Balsam Knob and Sam Knob. I climbed the two bald peaks on Tuesday, July 7, 2015 beginning at 7:00AM and finishing at 11:45AM. My plan was to take the Art Loeb Trail to the summit of Black Balsam Knob until I could see Shining Rock, return, then take the Sam Knob Summit Trail.

And what are those special circumstances I mentioned above? Western Canada, Alaska, and the Pacific Northwest have been burning for a month. The prevailing wind of the jetstream has been bringing the smoke from the wildfires all the way to the Great Smoky Mountains and the Blue Ridge Mountains on a daily basis. The air is extremely hazy. Visibility has been reduced to no more than 10 miles. You will notice the haze as you dive into the photo gallery at the bottom of this report.

Starting my day at Pounding Mill Overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway just before dawn, I hoped for a brilliant sunrise. I volunteer there for the National Park Service by picking up trash, looking for wind blown debris, checking storm drains for clogs, and other general upkeep. Parkway volunteers contribute more than 50,000 hours each year that would otherwise fall to the budget constrained National Park Service. It also just happens to keep the Parkway looking clean and green.

Next stop… Art Loeb Trailhead to Black Balsam Knob. Located at the top of Black Balsam Road (milepost 420) on the right, it shares this trailhead with the Mountains to Sea Trail. They both cross from the spruce forest on the left side of the road. 10 yards off the road, the MtS trail goes right, and down. They both have white trail blaze, so be sure you take the Art Loeb. It continues straight ahead, and into the dark forest. You immediately realize how popular this area is. After years and years of overuse, the trail has become a trench, sometimes as deep as your waist.

It’s 10 minutes through the forest where you pop out for your first views of the Black Balsam summit ahead, and the Graveyard Fields area along the Parkway to your right. This time of year, the wispy native grasses stand shoulder height with long, grainy tops that wave in the omnipresent breeze. The climb to the summit begins in earnest now, not especially steep, but ever upward. There are rocky plateaus along the way that provide natural photo ops, as well as a place to catch a short breather.

The plateaus along the Art Loeb Trail are covered with this exposed wavy granite. That is the double-humped Sam Knob in the background, the later destination for this hike.

As you top a false summit, the trail takes a slight turn to the east and begins the final ascent to the Black Balsam crest. At the top is a large rocky outcropping that peers far and wide into the depths of Pisgah National Forest. There is a commemorative plaque here, dedicated to Art Loeb, an early member of the Carolina Mountain Club who loved these mountains and spent a great deal of time working to protect and preserve them. I almost always sit here for a least a few minutes and embrace the scene, not only as Art Loeb did, but also the Cherokee people hundreds of years before.

Behind you, to the north, is the massive expanse of the Black Balsam Knob summit. Larger than 7-8 football fields and standing above 6,200 feet, this rounded apex is totally worth exploring. There are seemingly trails in every which direction that have developed over the years as thousands of visitors have taken their own path across the summit. Please don’t make even more.

If you stay in a generally northward direction, you will remain on the Art Loeb Trail. I got to watch a robin toying with a worm, and then a raven chase the robin away. My goal on this day was to go to the northern tip of the crest where you can usually recognize the bright white quartz of Shining Rock far distant in the wilderness.

Along the way you experience magnificent views of Sam Knob and the Middle Prong Wilderness to the west. On your right, eastward, is Tennent Mountain (another 6ixer) and the tower-topped peak of Mt. Pisgah. The Art Loeb eventually continues over Tennent and then drops down to Ivestor Gap and into Shining Rock Wilderness. Off to the north are the imposing shoulders of Cold Mountain, and ridge after ridge after ridge that fall into the distance as far as your eye, and imagination, will take you.

On this day, that wasn’t very far, unfortunately. The haze almost totally obscured my hoped-for view of Shining Rock. I had even carried my heavy telephoto lens just for this opportunity. It was just not to be. So with a deep sigh and an air of disappointment, I turned to go back the way I had come. As I caught a glimpse of Sam Knob on the horizon, I remembered I still had another destination, and my spirit of anticipation returned. Perhaps by the time I get there, the air will clear some.

On the way back, I was treated to a field of turks cap lilies that had bloomed just since I passed less than an hour before. Black Balsam is usually reliable for a good stand of turks cap in July. Keep your eyes peeled about waist high and 20 yards off the trail for the bright orange blossoms that hang awkwardly upside down.

Once back to the trailhead, it is less than a half mile north on Black Balsam Road to the parking area at the dead end. The blue-blazed Sam Knob trailhead is on the west side of the parking lot. There were dozens of teen and pre-teen girls flittering about like butterflies, and then I noticed: Just as I had seen a llama-led backcountry excursion a couple weeks prior, so they were out again, getting set for perhaps the wildest adventure yet in some of the little girls’ lives. Good for them.

The Black Balsam trek had ended with pretty wildflowers. This one began with a dazzling display of fuschia fireweed lining both sides of the trail. Not only that, but I was actually beginning to see bluish sky off to the west. Perhaps things were picking up. But then I got the reminder of what I had seen here back in May with my brother — the erosion control project.

Chamerion angustifolium, commonly known as fireweed, is a perrenial that can grow as tall as eight feet. This herb is often abundant in wet open fields, pastures, and particularly burned-over lands. That certainly applies to this area.

Please allow me a brief rant. I know this section of the national forest that contains Black Balsam and Sam Knob is not actually within designated wilderness. But basically, it is completely surrounded by wilderness, and as such, to me, it should be treated the same. I also know that it is extremely popular, with the trail receiving perhaps excessive usage. In May 2015, in an effort to control erosion on this part of the Sam Knob Trail, the forest service contracted to have very large gravel poured on the trail, and a boardwalk built to elevate the trail above a section of trench.

These actions run completely contrary to the wilderness principles of Leave No Trace. The large gravel is very hard to walk on, particularly on the bottom of the feet. The boardwalk is a permanent eyesore that will remain on this pristine landscape for at least 50 years until it eventually becomes a rotting heap. Was there no alternative? Could the trench have been filled in with dirt and an alternate path around it constructed? When you see it for yourself, I’ll let you decide. Thanks for tolerating my distraction.

Back on track here, at the bottom of the boardwalk the trail passes through a flower laden meadow that was once a logging camp nearly a hundred years ago. I found mullein, buttercups, multiple species of daisies, even a few bluets still remaining this late in the season. Anyone peering down into the meadow from above probably got a chuckle at the hiker/photographer guy down below, rolling around in the grasses trying to take pictures between gusts of wind.

At the west end of the meadow, a trail marker designates a choice. You can turn left onto the Flat Laurel Creek Trail, or as I did, you can turn right up the Sam Knob Summit Trail. This one immediately enters a dark, tight forest of laurels and rhododendron that are making every effort to choke the trail. Nearly all the way up, this trail is narrow — a lot more narrow than I remembered from the last time I was here four years ago. I was kinda glad I had on long sleeves. It likely prevented a few scratches from the bushes.

There isn’t much to see on this trail, except the dense foliage. You will know you’re about half way up when you reach a small staircase. Above that, the trail winds around Sam Knob to the west side of its face. Here it begins to open up just a bit, with occasional views of the Highway 215 corridor climbing the valley to its appointment with the Blue Ridge Parkway. On the west side of the highway is the primitive expanse of Middle Prong Wilderness.

When you reach a large white quartz outcrop on the left side of the trail, you are nearly to the summit. One of the unique features of Sam Knob is its double summits. Take the trail to the north summit for outstanding views to the west and north of the gargantuan Richland Balsam ridge, and Middle Prong Wilderness. On really clear days, you can see all the way to the high peaks of the Great Smoky Mountains nearly 70 miles away.

The south summit of Sam Knob overlooks the east, south, and west with the best view of where I was earlier on top of Black Balsam Knob. You can see where Hwy 215 meets the Parkway, the tall points of Green Knob and Mt. Hardy, and a vast domain of spruce and fir forest. I found a beautiful, smooth granite slab to enjoy lunch and ponder the times I’ve looked at the opposite view from the other side of the valley. I think I even made out the rocks I sit on way over there.

If you look at the ridge on the far upper right of this picture, you can make out the rock outcrops on the ridge. You have a great view of Sam Knob from over there.

As I enjoyed my meal, I thought of how fortunate I am to live near this amazing wild place… of how fortunate I am to still have the ability to climb to mountaintops… and of how retirement is the best job I’ve ever had. I got a few photos with semi-blue sky, but then some ominous gray clouds began to roll in. On top of an exposed 6,000 foot mountain was not where I wanted to be in a thunderstorm, so I hastily packed up and began the descent.

Most of this day I’d had the trails all to myself. Not so on the way down from Sam Knob. It’s like everyone arrived at once. Was there a parade I didn’t know about? I encountered 16 hikers coming up while I was descending. Passing them was sometimes difficult on the narrow trail. I hoped for their sake that those gray clouds I had seen moments before didn’t open up when they reached the summit.

When I got back to the now completely full parking area, the llama party was just about to head out into the wilderness. I quickly got ready to leave so that a new arrival could have my parking space and the ability to relish this country as much as I do. I come to Black Balsam frequently, especially when the heat of summer smothers the valleys below. As long as I am able, I will keep coming. You should too.

This hike is only available when the Blue Ridge Parkway is open, so it is seasonal. You are likely to be able to get access to the trailheads April through November. Check the Parkway closures site before making plans.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

There are lots of little maintenance trails alongside the Blue Ridge Parkway that don’t show up on any trail maps or have any signs to let you know they are there. One of those is a hidden gem in the high country at milepost 420 directly across from the Black Balsam spur road. It’s great for an hour stroll to brighten you senses, or if you’re looking for a quiet and peaceful spot for lunch away from the madness of Graveyard Fields. With magnificent views of Pilot Mountain and Black Balsam and Mt. Pisgah, you will get a visual treat, but don’t forget to study the ground too. There are a number of mosses and lichens that would be more at home in Canada than the Southern Appalachians. I thoroughly enjoyed an hour here on Tuesday, March 24, 2015 from 12:30PM to 1:30PM. My original plan was to hike to Fork Ridge on the Mountains to Sea Trail, but that portion of the Parkway was not yet open. So I improvised. I’m happy I did.

As you can see from the map above, this trail hangs right on the Blue Ridge Escarpment. It isn’t obvious from the trail… you aren’t walking on the edge of open cliffs or bluffs. The terrain is covered with various forms of heath and krummholz, so you don’t notice the extreme drop off. While you aren’t likely to fall through all the bushes and thickets, just be aware that it’s a long way down.

These maintenance trails that follow the parkway enable NPS maintenance workers access to the property boundary that is a right-of-way on each side of the road. In fact, you will encounter several parkway boundary markers at ground level on this trail. I’m told that this particular stretch was even considered at one time to be part of the Mountains to Sea Trail.

While there weren’t any wildflowers out yet this first week of Spring, the ground cover was alive and well and jumping to attention. The high country of Western North Carolina is reminiscent of Canada in many respects. During one of the Ice Ages pockets of trees, shrubs, mosses and lichens that are native to Canada were deposited in the Southern Appalachians, far from their normal range. That’s why you will encounter seemingly out of place plant life like reindeer lichen alongside hair cap moss, galax, and ground cedar.

Later in the season I have seen trillium here, and you’re likely to find bluets, violets, chickweed and other tiny flowers all through the month of April. There is plenty of laurel and rhododendron too. So look for their exciting blossoms in June. The elevation is above the hardwood’s treeline, so evergreens make up the forest. This is black balsam country. There are lots of those beautiful trees.

Reindeer lichen is a bushy, branched lichen found in great abundance in Arctic lands. It is an erect, many-branched plant that grows up to 8 cm high, covers immense areas, and serves as pasture for reindeer, moose, caribou, and musk oxen. It only grows 3-5 mm per year, with the most rapid growth in Spring and Fall when high humidity and cool temperatures prevail.

Another thing you may notice as you walk this path is the extensive amount of wild animal scat, in particular coyote. There must be a great number of small rodents and hares about judging by the furry poop. I also observed deer tracks, so this trail may be even more popular with wildlife than it is with humans. And gnats! I was absolutely amazed to be swarmed with gnats already, especially at 5,500 feet. Fortunately I always carry repellent in my pack, but I hope this early start doesn’t mean this is going to be an awful gnat year.

Perhaps a third mile down the trail is a magnificent outcropping where I always stop for lunch or a snack. There is plenty of room to spread out and get comfortable. You have a marvelous view of the pointed summit of Pilot Mountain to the south, and of the Cowee Mountains 30 long miles away to the west. This time of year is the best for long distance viewing along the Blue Ridge. The air is usually crystal clear, unlike the haze of summer.

As you continue east along the ridge, viewing to the north opens up. There is 6,214′ Black Balsam Knob, the highest point in the Great Balsam Mountains, and a favorite hike in its own right. Off the eastern shoulder is Tennent Mountain, another sixer. Further east you can see the overcrowded Graveyard Fields with the iconic cone of Mt. Pisgah ten miles distant. All in all, an excellent tall mountain viewing experience.

When you reach a stand of small beech trees, the pathway begins its only descent. The drop is a gentle 200 feet, where it eventually meets the parkway surface again simply because there isn’t room to fit between the roadway and the escarpment. You can continue beyond this point a few hundred feet farther down the road, but I always stop here and turn around. This trail eventually heads to Daniel Ridge where you can meet other named trails that take you into the heart of Pisgah National Forest.

In summary, it is well worth an hour of your time to check out this BRP maintenance trail the next time you venture up to Black Balsam or Graveyard Fields. It’s perfect for the entire family, including toddlers. If the crowds at Graveyard Fields are getting you down, just drive an additional mile up the parkway to this delightful hideaway. Take a picnic lunch for the outcrop. Watch the ravens hover on the thermals overhead. Smell the sweet scent of black balsam spruce and mountain laurel blossoms. Understand where the Blue Ridge Mountains get their name. Forget about all your cares for just an hour, and breathe the refreshing mountain air.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Backcountry wilderness. If you really want to get a taste, then this hike is for you. Starting at the remote Camp Daniel Boone, the northern terminus of the Art Loeb Trail enters Shining Rock Wilderness immediately. As you begin the nearly 2,000′ ascent to Deep Gap, on the southern shoulder of Cold Mountain, you will cross numerous streams as you hike through hardwood forest. Expect extremely rugged terrain with exceptional long-distance views and evergreen and heath vegetation as you cross from Deep Gap to Shining Rock Gap on a razor-edged stretch of trail appropriately called The Narrows. The loop returns as you descend Little East Fork Trail and follow this prong of the beautiful Little Pigeon River back to the scout camp. Whew! This hike occurred on Thursday, April 17, 2014 beginning at 9:10AM and ending about 5:35PM. Our plan was to take the Art Loeb Trail to its junction with Little East Fork Trail, then return on Little East Fork to the scout camp to complete the loop.

I should make note here before starting on the trail report that the map above is not complete. About the time we reached the junction of the Art Loeb Trail with the Little East Fork Trail, the battery on my smartphone died, so the recording of the GPS track was terminated. It’s a shame too, because I had a battery charger with me. I was simply enjoying the companionship and beauty of the wilderness so much that I didn’t even think about the battery.

So, to complete the map above, I have hand-drawn the approximate track of descent along the Little East Fork Trail. The map statistics combining the actual track up, and the virtual track down, total a little more than 13 miles. It was our estimate, however, that this hike is actually closer to 15 miles.

It takes awhile to get to the Daniel Boone Scout Camp. It is truly out in the rural country, but isn’t that what you’d expect for wilderness hiking? The Art Loeb Trail is near the back of the camp, and is well marked with a large sign.

The morning was great for a long hike, brisk, with just a touch of overcast. When I was here once before, on the first mile or so of the hike, I could tell it is an area near a wealth of seasonal campers. The trail then was very well maintained with lots of rock and log stairs to aid with climbing. The camp counselors no doubt enjoy having the free camper labor to take care of trail maintenance.

This time of year, though, before the boy scouts show up in droves, all the debris strewn about by the heavy winds of winter left the trail littered with twigs and sticks, and several downed trees. It’s a steep climb right off the bat, then the trail takes a series of switchbacks, jumping nearly 1,200 feet in the first 1.5 miles.

Our crew of three two-legged and one four-legged pedestrians moved at a casual pace through a thick hardwood forest on the way to Deep Gap, and in mid-April with the leaves still off the trees, we could see some of the surrounding mountains, as well as what lie ahead of us on the trail. As we rounded each succeeding ridge, Deep Gap still looked a long way up there.

We crossed Sorrell Creek twice, the first time after about a mile and a half, the 2nd another mile later. It had been a very wet winter in the Blue Ridge so there was plenty of fungus, lichens, molds and mosses growing on everything that had a surface. What totally surprised us was the acres and acres of ramps we came upon. Now don’t you go digging them up just because I told you they are there. This is designated wilderness. The forest rangers will spank you.

Though I’ve yet to hike this stretch of the Art Loeb during the green season, I’m told that there is a great deal of poison oak in this area. So take your own precautions as appropriate.

The Art Loeb Trail climbs a total of about 1,800 feet to Deep Gap in roughly four miles with the first part and the last part being the steepest. In between is a gradual grade. There are a couple stretches where the trail meanders along as it follows an old logging road. There is a spring near Deep Gap, so when you come upon it, know that you are close… about 2/10 of a mile. That last bit, though, will severely test your legs and lungs.

Deep Gap is a perfect place to take a breather. There are logs there, and a fire pit, and an open area to stretch your legs. We all took off our packs and shared some nourishment while resting for the next climb into The Narrows. Deep Gap is also the way to the summit of Cold Mountain. There is a spur trail there that takes you northward the final mile and a half to the top of that famous 6,000 footer.

We took about 20 minutes at Deep Gap, to eat and drink, and to get ourselves rested for more serious climbing. There is no directional sign, but the Art Loeb turns to the right here, now heading due south and up. It’s another thousand feet of hard climbing between Deep Gap and the highest point in The Narrows, 5,869′ Stairs Mountain. We were in complete sunshine now on a glorious day for hiking the backcountry.

As you pass through The Narrows, keep in mind that you are a long way from anywhere. There is no quick way to get to where you are. So be very careful as you traverse this extremely rugged and remote terrain. Obviously you don’t want to get injured, but think of the search and rescue folks who have to get to you from miles away in any direction. Just my public service — please be careful when hiking in The Narrows.

Perhaps a half mile, or less, above Deep Gap, The Narrows begin. The terrain suddenly has many large granite outcroppings. It becomes apparent that you are on a precarious ridge. It isn’t cliffs, but if you fell, you would roll for quite some time. The laurel and rhododendron are thick and choking. The steps up will strain your groin and hip muscles. Sometimes you have to scramble on all fours.

When you begin to see the scattered spruce and balsam, you are nearing the first overlook, and oh my, what an overlook it is. We were graced with a crystal clear day that enabled us to see all the way to Great Smoky Mountains National Park, more than 50 miles away. We could see Mt. Sterling and Mt. Leconte in the Smokies off to the west just as clear as if we were there. To the south is the massive hulk of Richland Balsam, the highest point on the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Climbing to the northeast side of the overlook we were presented with the south summit of Cold Mountain, and far in the distance, the tower-topped point of Mt. Pisgah. The combination of the two is the photo you see at the top of this post. Cold Mountain on the left, Pisgah on the right. Click it for a larger image.

After this magnificent view, the trail begins roller-coastering along the razor-thin ridge line. You will drop down 100 feet, then climb up 200, then drop down, and then back up. Lather. Rinse. Repeat. It is quite tiring. We had to stop for a number of breaks to catch our breath and rest our legs. The terrain is quite demanding.

After about a mile you finally get off the narrow ridge and back to more of a forested trail. Don’t think, though, that the worst is over, because now you have to climb up Stairs Mountain. I’m not afraid to tell you that by the time we reached the summit I was huffing and puffing. It’s tough. It truly tests your stamina. Fortunately for me, on this day I passed the test.

Once you cross over Stairs Mountain the worst of the exertion is over. It’s a rolling stroll for the next couple miles to Shining Rock Gap through a thick spruce and rhododendron canopy. You’ll know you’re getting near the namesake Shining Rock as you begin to see boulders of white quartz poking up out of the ground here and there.

The gap is a major trail junction. You can go up on Shining Rock from here. The Old Butt and Shining Creek trails meet here. The Ivestor Gap and Art Loeb trails also meet here. We continued southward on the Art Loeb for just a couple hundred more yards until the junction with the Little East Fork Trail.

The upper half of Little East Fork Trail is a gentle descent through the remains of a long ago fire. The forest changes from spruce and balsam to deciduous trees as it drops further into the drainage. Much of the trail is lined with young beech saplings, the last to lose their leaves. The golden glow of the still-clinging beech leaves brightens the path and prods tired legs ever onward.

After a couple miles you’ll begin to hear the faint rush of the river below. As you continue downward it gets closer and louder. The trail steepens and the terrain becomes more of a ravine as you approach the river. You’ll know you’re close when you start seeing backcountry campsites near the trail.

When you reach the river you have to cross. On this day, the water wasn’t particularly high, but high enough to cover my boot tops if I had just waded across. Scoping out crossing points, there looked to be two promising spots. One, that was in shallower water but with rocks that were further apart, and another with rocks that looked promising for hopping, but in deeper water. I chose the latter. Ken went first across the shallow crossing and made it without a hitch.

My first step from the bank to a big rock was a long one, longer that I had sized up. So there I was, straddling the current with one foot on the bank and the other on a slippery rock. As I swung my back leg over to join my front, I lost my balance, and you can guess the result. Sploosh! My whole left side, from shoulder to toes, was immersed in the cold mountain stream and my own adrenaline. It certainly was refreshing.

Y’know, the Meanderthals motto is, “If you’re gonna be dumb, you better be tough.” Well, I toughed it out. Ken helped pull me out of the drink and I finished crossing to the other side. There didn’t appear to be any pain, just wetness, and a sheepish grin. Creeks are my nemesis. Dave made it across safely behind me with Grace, and then they all waited while I changed my socks and poured part of the river out of my boots.

Back on the trail in another 10 minutes, we were now hiking directly beside the Little East Fork of the Pigeon River, but about 50-60 feet above. There are an amazing number of waterfalls and cascades over the two and a half mile length back to the scout camp from the crossing. It is a stunning river. Too bad the trail is so high above the whitewater. Some day I will go back with a tripod and clamber down to river level just for photos of this magnificent stream.

With wet clothes and bruised ego, the last couple miles were kind of a slog for me. Thankfully I had the natural beauty of the river to take my mind off my inconvenient situation. The last quarter mile is on Little East Fork Road within the bounds of the scout camp. We passed hundreds of tent platforms along the way. This place must really be rockin’ in summer when the camp is in full swing.

In summary, this is a long, hard hike that offers rewards around every corner. If you like forest hikes, it’s got that — hardwoods below Deep Gap and along Little East Fork and evergreens above 5,000 feet. If you like vista hikes, it has that too. The views on a clear day are remarkable. Expect to be able to see at least a 50 mile radius. And if you like water feature hikes, then the last few miles along Little East Fork are filled with waterfalls and tumbling cascades. There’s really something for everyone on this special wilderness loop. If you have the stamina to go for eight hours, then I definitely recommend this hike.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

There’s a trail from Scenic Hwy 276 that parallels the Blue Ridge Parkway as it winds around 10 ridges and makes 13 easy stream crossings on its way to the Pisgah Inn on the Parkway. Buck Spring Trail eventually ends up at the site of the former hunting lodge of George W. Vanderbilt II, the father of Pisgah National Forest. In the spring this trail is alive with abundant wildflowers and songbirds. When the leaves are down in winter, it offers views of the Cradle of Forestry National Historic Site in the valley below. This hike occurred on Tuesday, March 11, 2014 beginning at 10:00AM and ending about 3:05PM. Our plan was to take the Buck Spring Trail from Hwy 276 to Pisgah Inn, then return.

Most people who do this trail start at Pisgah Inn and hike east to west. However, in winter when the Blue Ridge Parkway is closed, you can’t get to the inn. So we took it from west to east. The pullout on Hwy 276 at the trailhead is a mile and a half past the Forest Discovery Center, on the right. There is enough room for four cars, which shouldn’t really ever be a problem, except perhaps on a weekend during leaf peeping season.

Right off the bat, the trail drops almostt 100 feet, so remember that at the tail end of the hike. You will finish with a climb back to your car. Otherwise, Buck Spring Trail is an almost flat stroll through ever-changing forest. It’s actually gaining elevation, about 400 feet over five miles, but the ascent is so gradual that you can’t even notice it. Be prepared though, for the last mile to the Inn. That’s when the trail steepens to climb the remaining 700 feet.

There are a number of small stream crossings along this trek. None are really problematic, as long as you pay attention and watch your step. Mostly you’re rock hopping, so just don’t be dumb and try to be too cute. Listen to Meanderthals — we know from experience. The first two crossings are the west and east forks of Bearwallow Branch, and the east fork has a picturesque small waterfall tucked away in an alcove.

At the 1.2 mile mark the famous Mountains to Sea Trail will come down the hill from the left. From this point on, the two trails are merged and the blaze marks are the traditional white of the MtS. Then it’s across another stream and just another two-tenths to a 2nd trail junction — this one the Barnett Branch Trail. You can follow Barnett Branch all the way to Pink Beds if you choose.

Soon after the trail junction are the two forks of Barnett Branch itself. These are two of the widest of the crossings. You know that wherever there are stream crossings, there will soon be ridge roundings. The Buck Spring Trail ultimately makes 13 crossings and rounds 10 ridges. All of this drainage ends up in Mills River and the Cradle of Forestry below. The last of the named crossings is called Poplar Creek. Then I guess they got tired of giving them names because there are so many.

An advantage of hiking Buck Spring Trail in winter is the ability to see through the forest. As you progress from ridge to ridge, you will see sights along the Blue Ridge Parkway directly to your north and above, as well as landmarks off in the distance southward. Among them are the fire and communications towers on Fryingpan Mountain, and the massive granite face of Pilot Rock.

The foliage surrounding you also makes some serious changes, from a mostly hardwood forest of beech and poplar, oak and birch on the western end of the trail, to pockets of thick mountain laurel and rhododendron. There is one spot where the rhododendron is so mature that the trunks are 4-5 inches in diameter and the thickets are so dense that you could get lost for days. It’s a perfect spot for a campsite, one that is protected by the laurels from the wind. That’s the photo at the top of this post. Click it for a larger image.

You will find yourself often walking through a green tunnel. The laurels are so prevalent that they have formed a canopy above the trail. Especially during the bloom seasons in May and June, this area is remarkable for the succulent blossoms and wonderful aromas that permeate your senses, not to mention the songbirds. Our little feathered friends love this area above the Pink Beds and Cradle of Forestry. Who wouldn’t? It’s a great place to hang out.

Somewhere near the 5 mile mark, the trail turns decidedly north and the ascent gets steeper. Not so much at first, but about the time you begin to see the Pisgah Inn on the precipice above you, the climb to the Parkway begins. There are three dramatic and long switchbacks. The first goes from north to east, the second is a hairpin from east to west, and the final one another hairpin from south to north. It’s a hefty push to reach the top, but once you do, seemingly the whole of the Blue Ridge opens up before you.

The Mt. Pisgah area has been a popular resort destination for a number of years. The first Pisgah Inn opened about 1919. This rustic old Inn was a welcome journey’s end for thousands of travelers escaping from the heat of the lowlands in the summer. Development of the modern Pisgah Inn began in the early 1960’s. The Blue Ridge Parkway through the Mt. Pisgah area opened for travel in the mid-60’s. The present Pisgah Inn was built in 1964. It normally operates from April 1 to October 31.

From the front of the inn you can see Mt. Pisgah, the namesake. The Blue Ridge Parkway winds between the inn and the mountain. Buck Spring Trail actually continues beyond the inn another mile to the former location of George Vanderbilt’s Buck Spring Hunting Lodge. From there you can hop on a trail to the summit of Mt. Pisgah.

The back of the inn looks out over the Blue Ridge. Directly below is the substantial forested valley of the Cradle of Forestry National Historic Site, including Pink Beds. Due east is the long ridge of Laurel Mountain and to the southeast is Pilot Rock. To the southwest the Blue Ridge Parkway winds its merry way from ridge to ridge as it hugs and caresses the WNC high country.

It’s great to be here off season because you have the place all to yourself. You can sit on the deck of what is the restaurant in summer and imagine dining with Vanderbilt and Clingman, or Schenck and Pinchot. There are no car sounds on the Parkway because it is almost always closed from December thru March. We even managed to come on a day when the breeze was down, so we weren’t pestered by nearly always present wind.

The return is the same way you came. Remember that you are six miles out, so by the time you finish you have 12 long miles on your boots, a pretty darn lengthy day hike. About half way back it began taking a toll on me, not so much with fatigue, but more with boredom. I even commented to my companion that this might be a really boring hike in the summer because you wouldn’t be able to see anything. Just mile after mile after mile of green forest. Don’t get me wrong. I like forest hikes as much as the next guy, but 12 miles of it isn’t particularly exciting.

About a mile from the finish we encountered a group of five other hikers who looked to perhaps be college students on spring break. Not long after that we saw three tents pitched in the woods that weren’t there when we started. Apparently the hiking group arrived after us, setup camp, and then hit the trail for a hike.

At the end, we had that final hundred foot climb back to Hwy 276. We completed the hike in just a little over five hours, a pretty good pace for 12 miles, and another indicator that this is mostly a flat, easy trail. Really the only breaks we took were one for lunch, some time at Pisgah Inn, and the occasional photograph.

To summarize, if you like multi-forest hikes, then you would probably enjoy Buck Spring Trail. There are typical WNC hardwoods, lots of laurel and rhododendron, and even some spruce as you near the Blue Ridge Parkway. The trail is very easy to hike, and not at all strenuous until you get close to Pisgah Inn. This is definitely a four season hike. Even in the dead of winter with snow on the trail, it would still be easy to follow. You wouldn’t be able to start at the Pisgah Inn end because of the Parkway, but the road crews do a nice job of keeping 276 clear and accessible.

Update July 20, 2016: How about a summertime visit to this ridge hugging trail? There isn’t much to see of the mountains with the tree canopy in full force, so I focused my camera at ground level. What do you think?

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.