When looking for some WNC high country scenery and perhaps refreshing cool air on a warm day, one of the first destinations I think of is the Black Balsam area at milepost 420 on the Blue Ridge Parkway. There are half a dozen mountains here that stand above 6,000 feet, with encompassing 360° views from their treeless summits. This land that lies between the Shining Rock and Middle Prong Wildernesses is pierced by the Art Loeb Trail, a favorite of anyone who visits the Pisgah Ranger District.

My hiking pal Ken and I have walked this region many, many times over the years and we still come back for more at least once per season. If you’re looking for details about the terrain, here is my trail report, but for this post I simply wanted to share some photos of this visit on May 31, 2017. As you will see, the weather couldn’t have been better. There were quite a number of other hikers out and about that day with the same idea… to enjoy the glorious Blue Ridge Mountains.

We stopped a lot… to take pictures, to marvel at the breathtaking viewshed and colorful wildflowers, to enjoy a picnic-like lunch and each other’s company… simply to soak it all in. Time seems to stand still on the trail, but before we knew it we had finished the five mile loop and had recorded another fantastic memory.

Following is a pictorial essay of our day spent on Black Balsam and Tennent Mountains. Please feel free to leave your comments and suggestions below the gallery. Thanks for visiting!

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

There is a notch between two wildernesses in the Pisgah National Forest high country. Shining Rock Wilderness is to the northeast, and Middle Prong Wilderness is to the west of this pie-shaped cut in the topology. In between are two bald mountaintops that exceed 6,000 feet elevation. To the locals the area is called simply… Black Balsam. The air is fresh (usually), the wildflowers abundant, and the adventure plentiful. Under normal circumstances, the views from these treeless summits are fantastic, oft times exceeding 50 miles. In this report you will learn, however, why this was not a normal circumstance. Join me as I take you high above Pisgah National Forest and the Blue Ridge Parkway to Black Balsam Knob and Sam Knob. I climbed the two bald peaks on Tuesday, July 7, 2015 beginning at 7:00AM and finishing at 11:45AM. My plan was to take the Art Loeb Trail to the summit of Black Balsam Knob until I could see Shining Rock, return, then take the Sam Knob Summit Trail.

And what are those special circumstances I mentioned above? Western Canada, Alaska, and the Pacific Northwest have been burning for a month. The prevailing wind of the jetstream has been bringing the smoke from the wildfires all the way to the Great Smoky Mountains and the Blue Ridge Mountains on a daily basis. The air is extremely hazy. Visibility has been reduced to no more than 10 miles. You will notice the haze as you dive into the photo gallery at the bottom of this report.

Starting my day at Pounding Mill Overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway just before dawn, I hoped for a brilliant sunrise. I volunteer there for the National Park Service by picking up trash, looking for wind blown debris, checking storm drains for clogs, and other general upkeep. Parkway volunteers contribute more than 50,000 hours each year that would otherwise fall to the budget constrained National Park Service. It also just happens to keep the Parkway looking clean and green.

Next stop… Art Loeb Trailhead to Black Balsam Knob. Located at the top of Black Balsam Road (milepost 420) on the right, it shares this trailhead with the Mountains to Sea Trail. They both cross from the spruce forest on the left side of the road. 10 yards off the road, the MtS trail goes right, and down. They both have white trail blaze, so be sure you take the Art Loeb. It continues straight ahead, and into the dark forest. You immediately realize how popular this area is. After years and years of overuse, the trail has become a trench, sometimes as deep as your waist.

It’s 10 minutes through the forest where you pop out for your first views of the Black Balsam summit ahead, and the Graveyard Fields area along the Parkway to your right. This time of year, the wispy native grasses stand shoulder height with long, grainy tops that wave in the omnipresent breeze. The climb to the summit begins in earnest now, not especially steep, but ever upward. There are rocky plateaus along the way that provide natural photo ops, as well as a place to catch a short breather.

The plateaus along the Art Loeb Trail are covered with this exposed wavy granite. That is the double-humped Sam Knob in the background, the later destination for this hike.

As you top a false summit, the trail takes a slight turn to the east and begins the final ascent to the Black Balsam crest. At the top is a large rocky outcropping that peers far and wide into the depths of Pisgah National Forest. There is a commemorative plaque here, dedicated to Art Loeb, an early member of the Carolina Mountain Club who loved these mountains and spent a great deal of time working to protect and preserve them. I almost always sit here for a least a few minutes and embrace the scene, not only as Art Loeb did, but also the Cherokee people hundreds of years before.

Behind you, to the north, is the massive expanse of the Black Balsam Knob summit. Larger than 7-8 football fields and standing above 6,200 feet, this rounded apex is totally worth exploring. There are seemingly trails in every which direction that have developed over the years as thousands of visitors have taken their own path across the summit. Please don’t make even more.

If you stay in a generally northward direction, you will remain on the Art Loeb Trail. I got to watch a robin toying with a worm, and then a raven chase the robin away. My goal on this day was to go to the northern tip of the crest where you can usually recognize the bright white quartz of Shining Rock far distant in the wilderness.

Along the way you experience magnificent views of Sam Knob and the Middle Prong Wilderness to the west. On your right, eastward, is Tennent Mountain (another 6ixer) and the tower-topped peak of Mt. Pisgah. The Art Loeb eventually continues over Tennent and then drops down to Ivestor Gap and into Shining Rock Wilderness. Off to the north are the imposing shoulders of Cold Mountain, and ridge after ridge after ridge that fall into the distance as far as your eye, and imagination, will take you.

On this day, that wasn’t very far, unfortunately. The haze almost totally obscured my hoped-for view of Shining Rock. I had even carried my heavy telephoto lens just for this opportunity. It was just not to be. So with a deep sigh and an air of disappointment, I turned to go back the way I had come. As I caught a glimpse of Sam Knob on the horizon, I remembered I still had another destination, and my spirit of anticipation returned. Perhaps by the time I get there, the air will clear some.

On the way back, I was treated to a field of turks cap lilies that had bloomed just since I passed less than an hour before. Black Balsam is usually reliable for a good stand of turks cap in July. Keep your eyes peeled about waist high and 20 yards off the trail for the bright orange blossoms that hang awkwardly upside down.

Once back to the trailhead, it is less than a half mile north on Black Balsam Road to the parking area at the dead end. The blue-blazed Sam Knob trailhead is on the west side of the parking lot. There were dozens of teen and pre-teen girls flittering about like butterflies, and then I noticed: Just as I had seen a llama-led backcountry excursion a couple weeks prior, so they were out again, getting set for perhaps the wildest adventure yet in some of the little girls’ lives. Good for them.

The Black Balsam trek had ended with pretty wildflowers. This one began with a dazzling display of fuschia fireweed lining both sides of the trail. Not only that, but I was actually beginning to see bluish sky off to the west. Perhaps things were picking up. But then I got the reminder of what I had seen here back in May with my brother — the erosion control project.

Chamerion angustifolium, commonly known as fireweed, is a perrenial that can grow as tall as eight feet. This herb is often abundant in wet open fields, pastures, and particularly burned-over lands. That certainly applies to this area.

Please allow me a brief rant. I know this section of the national forest that contains Black Balsam and Sam Knob is not actually within designated wilderness. But basically, it is completely surrounded by wilderness, and as such, to me, it should be treated the same. I also know that it is extremely popular, with the trail receiving perhaps excessive usage. In May 2015, in an effort to control erosion on this part of the Sam Knob Trail, the forest service contracted to have very large gravel poured on the trail, and a boardwalk built to elevate the trail above a section of trench.

These actions run completely contrary to the wilderness principles of Leave No Trace. The large gravel is very hard to walk on, particularly on the bottom of the feet. The boardwalk is a permanent eyesore that will remain on this pristine landscape for at least 50 years until it eventually becomes a rotting heap. Was there no alternative? Could the trench have been filled in with dirt and an alternate path around it constructed? When you see it for yourself, I’ll let you decide. Thanks for tolerating my distraction.

Back on track here, at the bottom of the boardwalk the trail passes through a flower laden meadow that was once a logging camp nearly a hundred years ago. I found mullein, buttercups, multiple species of daisies, even a few bluets still remaining this late in the season. Anyone peering down into the meadow from above probably got a chuckle at the hiker/photographer guy down below, rolling around in the grasses trying to take pictures between gusts of wind.

At the west end of the meadow, a trail marker designates a choice. You can turn left onto the Flat Laurel Creek Trail, or as I did, you can turn right up the Sam Knob Summit Trail. This one immediately enters a dark, tight forest of laurels and rhododendron that are making every effort to choke the trail. Nearly all the way up, this trail is narrow — a lot more narrow than I remembered from the last time I was here four years ago. I was kinda glad I had on long sleeves. It likely prevented a few scratches from the bushes.

There isn’t much to see on this trail, except the dense foliage. You will know you’re about half way up when you reach a small staircase. Above that, the trail winds around Sam Knob to the west side of its face. Here it begins to open up just a bit, with occasional views of the Highway 215 corridor climbing the valley to its appointment with the Blue Ridge Parkway. On the west side of the highway is the primitive expanse of Middle Prong Wilderness.

When you reach a large white quartz outcrop on the left side of the trail, you are nearly to the summit. One of the unique features of Sam Knob is its double summits. Take the trail to the north summit for outstanding views to the west and north of the gargantuan Richland Balsam ridge, and Middle Prong Wilderness. On really clear days, you can see all the way to the high peaks of the Great Smoky Mountains nearly 70 miles away.

The south summit of Sam Knob overlooks the east, south, and west with the best view of where I was earlier on top of Black Balsam Knob. You can see where Hwy 215 meets the Parkway, the tall points of Green Knob and Mt. Hardy, and a vast domain of spruce and fir forest. I found a beautiful, smooth granite slab to enjoy lunch and ponder the times I’ve looked at the opposite view from the other side of the valley. I think I even made out the rocks I sit on way over there.

If you look at the ridge on the far upper right of this picture, you can make out the rock outcrops on the ridge. You have a great view of Sam Knob from over there.

As I enjoyed my meal, I thought of how fortunate I am to live near this amazing wild place… of how fortunate I am to still have the ability to climb to mountaintops… and of how retirement is the best job I’ve ever had. I got a few photos with semi-blue sky, but then some ominous gray clouds began to roll in. On top of an exposed 6,000 foot mountain was not where I wanted to be in a thunderstorm, so I hastily packed up and began the descent.

Most of this day I’d had the trails all to myself. Not so on the way down from Sam Knob. It’s like everyone arrived at once. Was there a parade I didn’t know about? I encountered 16 hikers coming up while I was descending. Passing them was sometimes difficult on the narrow trail. I hoped for their sake that those gray clouds I had seen moments before didn’t open up when they reached the summit.

When I got back to the now completely full parking area, the llama party was just about to head out into the wilderness. I quickly got ready to leave so that a new arrival could have my parking space and the ability to relish this country as much as I do. I come to Black Balsam frequently, especially when the heat of summer smothers the valleys below. As long as I am able, I will keep coming. You should too.

This hike is only available when the Blue Ridge Parkway is open, so it is seasonal. You are likely to be able to get access to the trailheads April through November. Check the Parkway closures site before making plans.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

There are lots of little maintenance trails alongside the Blue Ridge Parkway that don’t show up on any trail maps or have any signs to let you know they are there. One of those is a hidden gem in the high country at milepost 420 directly across from the Black Balsam spur road. It’s great for an hour stroll to brighten you senses, or if you’re looking for a quiet and peaceful spot for lunch away from the madness of Graveyard Fields. With magnificent views of Pilot Mountain and Black Balsam and Mt. Pisgah, you will get a visual treat, but don’t forget to study the ground too. There are a number of mosses and lichens that would be more at home in Canada than the Southern Appalachians. I thoroughly enjoyed an hour here on Tuesday, March 24, 2015 from 12:30PM to 1:30PM. My original plan was to hike to Fork Ridge on the Mountains to Sea Trail, but that portion of the Parkway was not yet open. So I improvised. I’m happy I did.

As you can see from the map above, this trail hangs right on the Blue Ridge Escarpment. It isn’t obvious from the trail… you aren’t walking on the edge of open cliffs or bluffs. The terrain is covered with various forms of heath and krummholz, so you don’t notice the extreme drop off. While you aren’t likely to fall through all the bushes and thickets, just be aware that it’s a long way down.

These maintenance trails that follow the parkway enable NPS maintenance workers access to the property boundary that is a right-of-way on each side of the road. In fact, you will encounter several parkway boundary markers at ground level on this trail. I’m told that this particular stretch was even considered at one time to be part of the Mountains to Sea Trail.

While there weren’t any wildflowers out yet this first week of Spring, the ground cover was alive and well and jumping to attention. The high country of Western North Carolina is reminiscent of Canada in many respects. During one of the Ice Ages pockets of trees, shrubs, mosses and lichens that are native to Canada were deposited in the Southern Appalachians, far from their normal range. That’s why you will encounter seemingly out of place plant life like reindeer lichen alongside hair cap moss, galax, and ground cedar.

Later in the season I have seen trillium here, and you’re likely to find bluets, violets, chickweed and other tiny flowers all through the month of April. There is plenty of laurel and rhododendron too. So look for their exciting blossoms in June. The elevation is above the hardwood’s treeline, so evergreens make up the forest. This is black balsam country. There are lots of those beautiful trees.

Reindeer lichen is a bushy, branched lichen found in great abundance in Arctic lands. It is an erect, many-branched plant that grows up to 8 cm high, covers immense areas, and serves as pasture for reindeer, moose, caribou, and musk oxen. It only grows 3-5 mm per year, with the most rapid growth in Spring and Fall when high humidity and cool temperatures prevail.

Another thing you may notice as you walk this path is the extensive amount of wild animal scat, in particular coyote. There must be a great number of small rodents and hares about judging by the furry poop. I also observed deer tracks, so this trail may be even more popular with wildlife than it is with humans. And gnats! I was absolutely amazed to be swarmed with gnats already, especially at 5,500 feet. Fortunately I always carry repellent in my pack, but I hope this early start doesn’t mean this is going to be an awful gnat year.

Perhaps a third mile down the trail is a magnificent outcropping where I always stop for lunch or a snack. There is plenty of room to spread out and get comfortable. You have a marvelous view of the pointed summit of Pilot Mountain to the south, and of the Cowee Mountains 30 long miles away to the west. This time of year is the best for long distance viewing along the Blue Ridge. The air is usually crystal clear, unlike the haze of summer.

As you continue east along the ridge, viewing to the north opens up. There is 6,214′ Black Balsam Knob, the highest point in the Great Balsam Mountains, and a favorite hike in its own right. Off the eastern shoulder is Tennent Mountain, another sixer. Further east you can see the overcrowded Graveyard Fields with the iconic cone of Mt. Pisgah ten miles distant. All in all, an excellent tall mountain viewing experience.

When you reach a stand of small beech trees, the pathway begins its only descent. The drop is a gentle 200 feet, where it eventually meets the parkway surface again simply because there isn’t room to fit between the roadway and the escarpment. You can continue beyond this point a few hundred feet farther down the road, but I always stop here and turn around. This trail eventually heads to Daniel Ridge where you can meet other named trails that take you into the heart of Pisgah National Forest.

In summary, it is well worth an hour of your time to check out this BRP maintenance trail the next time you venture up to Black Balsam or Graveyard Fields. It’s perfect for the entire family, including toddlers. If the crowds at Graveyard Fields are getting you down, just drive an additional mile up the parkway to this delightful hideaway. Take a picnic lunch for the outcrop. Watch the ravens hover on the thermals overhead. Smell the sweet scent of black balsam spruce and mountain laurel blossoms. Understand where the Blue Ridge Mountains get their name. Forget about all your cares for just an hour, and breathe the refreshing mountain air.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

When the Blue Ridge Parkway reopens each year in early spring, it is great to get back into the high country at milepost 420. That means the Black Balsam area and Shining Rock Wilderness. An oft overlooked trail on the west side of the wilderness is Little East Fork, a twisty path that follows the Little East Fork of the Pigeon River from Shining Rock Gap to the Daniel Boone Boy Scout Camp. Not a particularly difficult hike, it is however quite long. This hike occurred on Tuesday, April 8, 2014 beginning at 8:00AM and ending about 1:30PM. Our plan was to take the Ivestor Gap Trail to Little East Fork Trail and search for an elusive meadow along the ridge between Shining Rock and Birdstand Mountain.

It was a wonderful pleasure and privilege to get out on the trail with new hiking companions. Unfortunately, the weather was not very cooperative on this day. Usually in this space I will detail the full trail report, but there isn’t a whole lot to tell this time. It was very, very foggy — and cold, and wet from overnight rain — so we didn’t accomplish what we set out to do. We never found the high mountain meadow we were seeking. We only hiked perhaps a mile, mile and a half of the Little East Fork Trail because of the conditions, and decided to just turn around. Still, it is always a joy to simply be in Shining Rock Wilderness, especially with new friends.

The first part of the hike from the Black Balsam parking to Shining Rock Gap on the Ivestor Gap Trail has already be reported, so no reason to repeat. Instead, this time I will share a small photo gallery to give you a feel for what Shining Rock Wilderness is like as the seasons begin to change from winter to spring. Click any of the photos for larger images.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Cedar Rock is one of several granite pluton monoliths found in the Davidson River area of Pisgah National Forest. More difficult to get to than its nearby brethren, Looking Glass and John Rock, Cedar Rock has outstanding long distance views from both the east and west sides of its summit. You will have to work to get there, climbing nearly 1,700 feet from the valley floor at the Pisgah Center for Wildlife Education, but the end result is well worth the effort. You’ll see two states and four counties, 6000′ mountain peaks, stunning granite cliffs and the Blue Ridge Parkway. This hike occurred on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 from 10:15am to 4:00pm. Our plan was to take the western branch of Cat Gap Trail up Cedar Rock Creek to Cat Gap where we would get on the Art Loeb Trail to Cedar Rock. There is a somewhat secretive trail up Cedar Rock from the north, then back down the south side. We would return on the Art Loeb to Cat Gap, then back down the eastern side of the Cat Gap Loop through Horse Cove.

Roughly the first mile of this hike is the same as the one I did just last week, Cat Gap Trail to Cedar Rock Falls and Long Branch. Rather than repeat, I will pick up where to two trails diverge. One of my regular partners was back with me this time. When we reached the Cat Gap Trail and Butter Gap Trail junction, this time we took a left turn across Cedar Rock Creek and stayed on orange blazed Cat Gap, instead of going right on Butter Gap like last week.

After crossing, we followed Cedar Rock Creek through the forest to a small opening with a view of our eventual destination, Cedar Rock. From here, it looked far, far away, and plenty high. We had our work cut out for us. The trail enters a small, beautiful white pine forest. The forest floor is a bed of fallen red needles that have cushioned the earth for season after season. It’s a delight to enter these stands of evergreen woods. They are found throughout Pisgah National Forest, ranging from spruce to fir to black balsam and pine. The aromas are glorious.

The trail crosses the creek one more time, this time without the aid of a bridge, and then begins its steady climb up the northern shoulder of Cedar Rock to Cat Gap in earnest. There are a number of switchbacks to ease the strain, but it will get your attention. The trail will change direction to decidedly eastward for about a quarter mile, then turn back to the south again. This area is a floral delight in spring as it is lined with rhododendron, dog hobble and mountain laurel, galax and ground cedar.

Approximately a mile after the last creek crossing you will come to a junction with the Cat Gap Connector Trail. Here, you can take either trail to get where you want to go. I prefer staying on the Cat Gap Loop Trail because I think the climb is just a bit more moderate. So we took a right turn to stay on the loop trail.

You will continue upward in a southerly direction through a forest of locust and birch, oak and poplar. It is so different during the various seasons. In the cold weather months, there are views through the leafless forest of the surrounding mountains. During the green seasons, the forest provides a canopy to shield you from the sun and wind. It is cool, full of aviary activity, and replete with the scents and perfumes of the woods.

The trail takes another easterly turn and levels off as it makes the final push to Cat Gap. The gap itself is really not much more than a joining of trails. The Cat Gap Loop comes in from the east and the west. A trail that doesn’t appear on national forest maps but heads to Burl Mountain comes to Cat Gap, and the Art Loeb Trail crosses here. Art Loeb is our next path to Cedar Rock.

Get yourself ready for some strenuous climbing while you’re resting at Cat Gap. First, the Art Loeb climbs several hundred feet, then the Cedar Rock summit trail adds another several hundred to that. The good news? The scenery is spectacular, so don’t cheat yourself by letting the required exertion deter you. Just take your time, pause for short breathers, and set your own pace.

The Art Loeb Trail has white blaze markings as it climbs for ½ to ¾ mile to Sandy Gap, all the while offering a terrific view of Looking Glass Rock off to the north, and the many 5000-6000 foot peaks beyond. For the first time, we noticed those peaks were snow covered. There has been almost no snow in Western North Carolina this winter, so the white tops of Black Balsam Knob, Grassy Cove Top and Mt. Hardy were a delightful surprise. Made me yearn for the high country.

You will reach a plateau at Sandy Gap that has the best views from the trail. However, during green seasons, don’t expect to be able to see through the leafless trees. Among the many advantages of cold weather hiking are the added vista opportunities. Soon after topping this plateau, the Art Loeb Trail heads down the other side.

The summit trail to Cedar Rock has somewhat of a legend in hiking communities of being secret and not publicized. Apparently, it was a formerly maintained trail that was retired by the Forest Service because of the danger of falling from the cliffs on the pluton summit. There have been a number of deaths, or at least so I am told. Therefore, I don’t intend to break any unwritten codes by detailing exactly where the trailhead is. Having said that, though, there is information on the Internet about the trail. Just do a little search homework.

This summit trail isn’t especially long, but it is steep. It took us perhaps 15 minutes to climb to the top, with plenty of 30 second rests to suck air. Once you reach the top, though, you will know it. The summit is a long, relatively rounded cone shape with paths to the rock edges of both the east and west faces of this monolith. There is a large campsite and fire pit in the center at the capstone.

Our timing was great. That empty feeling in the pit of my stomach said that lunch was on the agenda, along with a well-deserved rest on the east face of Cedar Rock. Look for the spur paths to the granite surfaces but be very, very careful. I mentioned there hasn’t been much snow in WNC this winter, but what there has been is freezing cold even this late into March, including earlier on this morning. Even past noon, the granite still had large sheaths of ice that made for treacherous footing and an increased risk of falling. If you come up here in winter, watch very carefully for ice. It is sometimes difficult to see.

We found a great spot to sit with a view directly east and south. From here we could see the landmarks of DuPont State Forest directly in front of us. Brevard is just on the backside of Burl Mountain. Far beyond DuPont is Upstate South Carolina and the state parks that hang on the Blue Ridge Escarpment. Somewhere unseen, a few hundred feet below us, the Art Loeb Trail curls along the base of this massive granite wall.

Renourished, it was now time to explore the west face of Cedar Rock. The rock climbers love the west side. Returning to the center cone, we looked for a path to the other edge. The west side is covered with rhododendron thickets, so be prepared to sweep the low hanging branches out of your way as you follow a maze of paths toward the precipice. Look for orange ribbons hanging on the branches. Those have been placed by the climbing clubs to help lead you to strategic entry onto the west face.

I will repeat, be very, very careful. This west face is steeper and smaller. You can see pitons hammered into the rock by long-ago climbers. There was even more ice on this side, with fewer places to stand safely. In summer it might be different, but keep the ice in mind if you’re up here during cold weather months. Frankly, I didn’t feel very comfortable at all, so I snapped a few photos and got off the edge quickly before I made a mis-step.

Returning to the campsite at the central cone area, it was time to head off the south side of Cedar Rock. We noticed as we began our descent a number of blue ribbons tied to low-level branches. Perhaps a local hiking club has convinced the Forest Service to recommission this trail. Though not wide at all, it is in fairly good shape and easy to follow. We discovered a bit later why there may still be some reluctance to attract a lot of traffic to this trail.

Continuing steeply down the south side, every hundred yards or so we would come to another exposed granite ledge that had to be traversed. Remember the ice issue? Fortunately, these ledges receive south-side sun, so by mid-afternoon most of the ice was now trickling water. But if you’re up here on a cold, cold early morning expect these ledges on the southeastern descent to be extremely dangerous.

One of these ledges was especially scenic, and… what? What is that? Is that… is that a CEDAR TREE!!! YES!!! OMG!!! The smell is absolutely heavenly. Cedar Rock? Cedar tree? Made me wonder if there were hundreds on this pluton when man first came here, but I digress. I couldn’t get enough of the wonderful scent.

The granite ledge here curls around the southern tip and has a great view across Butter Gap to Stone Mountain, another with a large granite wall. Far in the distance behind Stone Mountain is Brushy Ridge, then further west to Nantahala National Forest.

The south side of Cedar Rock descends further than the north side climbs, so when you eventually get back to the Art Loeb Trail, you have to climb back up quite a way to return to Sandy Gap. You can continue southward to Butter Gap, but for this hike, we wanted to finish the other side of Cat Gap Loop. It is a fabulous journey north, as the Art Loeb parallels the gigantic eastern face of Cedar Rock. I am always struck by the number of narrow channels grooved into the rock by millenia upon millenia of water running down the side.

You’re about half way up the climb when you come upon a series of extremely large, extremely dead hemlocks. One in particular has a trunk with a diameter of at least four feet. At the top of the climb is a campsite on the left at the base of the granite. The pitch of the rock here is at a small enough angle that you can climb up the face on all fours a hundred feet or so, without the assist of ropes or other climbing gear. Last time I was here, I found a perch up there for lunch.

You’ll continue northward along a dry creek bed until you eventually reach the connection with the northern summit trail. From there it’s simply a matter of returning over Sandy Gap to Cat Gap.

Since we came up the west side of Cat Gap Loop, it certainly made sense to go back down the east side of the loop from Cat Gap. Look to your right for the descending northerly trail. Don’t accidently get on the unnamed trail that heads south toward Burl Mountain. You go down, down, down about a quarter mile to another major trail junction. This is where the Cat Gap Connector comes in from the west to meet the Cat Gap Loop, and also the John Rock Trail comes in from the north. We took Cat Gap Loop east.

This is an absolutely beautiful forest with many poplars standing close to a hundred feet tall. This stretch of the trail is really stunning during the green season when the forest canopy allows limited light to reach the forest floor. You will cross a number of small streams tumbling down from the mountains above, some with log bridges, others with rock hops.

About half way down, you’ll pass the other end of the trail to John Rock. My companion and I gave each other an inquisitive quick glance when we passed by. The answer on both our faces said, not today.

Next is the crossing of Forest Road 5017, otherwise known as Horse Cove Road. You have a choice here. You can continue to follow Cat Gap Trail all the way back to the east end of the Wildlife Center parking, or you can take the forest road that comes out on the west end of the parking lot. The trail is obviously more scenic, following Horse Cove Creek to Davidson River, but the road is just a little bit quicker. With nearly ten miles and more than five hours on our feet, we opted for quick.

In conclusion, this is a terrific hike with outstanding views from the summit of Cedar Rock. It is hard. You will work for the opportunity to see what the ledges on Cedar Rock offer. You truly get a feel for the lay of the land in Pisgah National Forest when standing on Cedar Rock, but the trails aren’t limited to long-distance vistas. The combination of evergreen, hardwood and laurel forests as well as the many creeks and streams that rush off the mountains above make this a full-featured hike. I highly recommend it.

Update May 1, 2014: We revisited this scenic hike to Cedar Rock and even combined it with the Butter Gap and Picklesimer Fields hike to make for a nice large loop. The weather cooperated beautifully for a delightful springtime stroll among the plutons in the Davidson River area. See below for another GPS track as well as some new pictures.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

The Black Balsam area of Pisgah National Forest is surrounded by Middle Prong Wilderness on the west, and Shining Rock Wilderness on the east. Some of the best hiking found in Western North Carolina lies in this high country just north of the Blue Ridge Parkway. At the end of Black Balsam Road at milepost 420 on the Parkway, the Ivestor Gap Trail will take you deep into this rugged, untamed backcountry. There are lots of spur trails used by the seasonal blueberry pickers that wind through the hollows and across the ridges. There is also the Fork Mountain Trail, a 6-mile track that will take you all the way to Sunburst Campground. About half way to Sunburst is Birdstand Mountain. When you see it, you’ll understand the name. Join Meanderthals as we explore the blueberry and rhododendron bush country between two wildernesses. This hike occurred on Tuesday, December 18, 2012 from 10:00am to 3:00pm. Our plan was to take the Ivestor Gap Trail to Fork Mountain Trail and on to Birdstand Mountain. For a return we would continue on to Ivestor Gap, then up and over two sixers, Tennent Mountain and Black Balsam Bald on the Art Loeb Trail.

It was a beautiful day in the high country: bright sunshine, nearly cloudless sky, a crisp 35°, and… WIND.

Black Balsam Road is a great jumping off point for a series of terrific trails that wander around and over the half dozen sixers that dot the landscape. Half way up the road the Art Loeb Trail crosses. To the west you can hike to Chestnut Bald. Take Art Loeb to the east and climb to the summit of Black Balsam Knob, then Tennent Mountain, and if you care to continue, far beyond to Grassy Cove Top.

At the deadend of Black Balsam Road is a parking area for trails that go west to Sam Knob and Little Sam, and further around Flat Laurel Creek. To the north Ivestor Gap Trail takes you to the gap, then to Grassy Cove, and if you’re really bold you will enter Shining Rock Wilderness and head to The Narrows.

On this day though, my friend and I were going to explore some of the trails that take off Ivestor Gap Trail and head into the backcountry to the northwest. This small triangle of Pisgah National Forest splits Middle Prong Wilderness to the west and Shining Rock Wilderness to the east. We eventually hoped to find Birdstand Mountain.

It was cold, so much so we pulled out the extra layers and headgear before we even left the parking area. Combine the mid-thirties temperature and wind gusts, the trail being in the shadows of Black Balsam Knob, and the hard rain from the day before, and we had to dodge the thin coating of ice on the myriad of puddles. Sunshine would be our friend. After 20 minutes we were able to round the big bend in the trail and finally get the warming sun at our backs.

Neither of us had ever taken any of the trails to the northwest (left) off Ivestor Gap, so we kept our eyes peeled for anything resembling a trailhead. Even though we weren’t in designated wilderness yet, we didn’t expect much in the way of trail markers anyway. The Forest Service planners do a good job here of leaving well enough alone. They don’t muck up the area with signs and blaze paint, but as a result, people do get lost.

We saw our first apparent trailhead about a mile into the hike, soon after we rounded that bend. There was a stand of old fir trees, some still alive, some simply a solid white hulk of their former selves. It became obvious soon that this was not maintained trail — the blueberry and rhododendron bushes dominated the hillside. Sam Knob was to our left, and the massive 6410′ Richland Balsam was far away to the northwest.

There was a path to follow at foot level, but at core and shoulder height we were pushing away brush with our arms. Different, and kinda neat in a way, we both commented that this semi-trail would be really rough in summer when all these bushes were full to the brim with their leaves, flowers, and fruit.

This trail wasn’t on our map, so we decided to name it the Blueberry Trail. We presumed the trails back in here were worn by blueberry pickers who come in August to enjoy the ripe fruit. We kept our map out to maintain our bearings, eventually deciding that we were on a small ridge above Sam Branch, a creek that drains to Pigeon River at the foot of Sam Knob. This wasn’t the Fork Mountain Trail we were looking for, but we decided to continue anyway just to see what we could find.

What we found was the point of the ridge we were on. I had never seen a clearer view of Richland Balsam. It is a massive mountain, with very broad shoulders and sweeping ridges that drop into the wilderness below. But I could also see beyond it further into the Great Balsam Range and beyond toward Tennessee. They say on a really clear day you can sometimes see Clingman’s Dome in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. I’m not sure how I would know if that’s what I was looking at, but we sure could see mountains I had never been able to see before when in this part of Pisgah National Forest. It’s all about angles and point of reference.

Turning more to the northeast, to our right, there was another larger, parallel ridge with a clearing in a gap. Still not quite sure if that was the Fork Mountain Ridge we were looking for, we were nonetheless curious, so we decided to head back and check it out.

We got back on the Ivestor Gap Trail and continued our search for trailheads to the left. Perhaps a little less than a half mile beyond our previous foray, we came upon another left turn. Actually almost an about face, it headed northwest into a small black balsam spruce grove. By now it was approaching lunch time, so we found a nice sunny spot out of the wind, and plopped down on the grass for a respite. That wasn’t all we plopped down on. As I pulled out my thermos of hot soup, I noticed the piles and piles of deer scat. Oh well, we are Meanderthals after all.

After a rest and some nourishment we continued on into the spruce forest. Just as we passed through, we reached what I would call the thickest, gnarliest rhododendron thicket I’d ever seen. It was at least ten feet tall, with twisted trunks and branches going every which way like a drunken lattice. I can’t imagine what the trail builders must have gone through decades ago. After 100 feet or so we cleared this thicket and entered a different variety of rhodo scrub.

Even though this trail seemed a bit better maintained, we eventually got back to the same exercise of pushing the blueberry and rhododendron bushes out of our way. These were taller, above our heads. We couldn’t really see anything in any direction except up, but we pressed on. We came to a small clearing and were able to collect our bearings. And then straight ahead, there it was.

It was a small knob of a mountain covered with rhododendron and other scrub. And you know what? It looked just like a bird stand. You know those duck blinds that hunters build to hide in when they are out waiting for water fowl? That is exactly what this small wart on the ridge reminded me of. Whoever came up with the name Birdstand Mountain was spot on. It looked to be only a half mile away, so we pressed on, knowing for sure this time that we were now on the Fork Mountain Trail.

Bushwhacking all the way, we reached the Birdstand in about 20 minutes. Unfortunately, there really wasn’t much to see because it was still covered with brush that was just too tall for us to peer over. We could make out Grassy Cove Top to the east, and the very tip-top of Cold Mountain to the north. Otherwise, we were surrounded by green, gnarly bushes.

The trail started heading down, down, down past the Birdstand, and we followed it for another 15 minutes. But, we had set a time limit for ourselves of 12:30, so we didn’t quite reach the gap with the clearing that we had seen from the point on Blueberry Trail. That’s a hike for another day, in less winter-like conditions, although I wonder if this trail is even passable when the leaves are out.

We got back to Ivestor Gap Trail about 1:15 and had a decision. We could call it a day, and head back to the car, or we could continue on to Ivestor Gap, then up and over Tennent Mountain and Black Balsam Knob on the Art Loeb Trail. It did seem to be warming somewhat, so we opted to go for it and tackle the big loop.

I always enjoy seeing familiar landmarks during different seasons. I have been to Ivestor Gap and the sixers in early and late spring, mid-summer, and several times during the fall. Just three days short of winter solstice, this would be the latest for me, so I was curious to see the wheat-like coloring of the tall grasses and shrub that cover the balds.

When we got to Ivestor Gap, jumped on the Art Loeb and headed south, suddenly we were on the windward side of the mountains. The higher we climbed, the fiercer the wind. I feel confident some of the gusts were in the 40-mph range. It was tough going. Surprisingly I wasn’t particularly cold. The layers were doing a great job of keeping my core warm, and the thick silk/merino combo balaclava I had on my head was working perfectly.

Every other time I’ve crossed Tennent Mountain, I’ve come from the west, from the Black Balsam side. So it was interesting climbing up the eastern flank. The views of Mt. Pisgah are fabulous, and of Grassy Cove Top. Then the Graveyard Fields area to the south comes into view, and Looking Glass Rock on the other side of the Blue Ridge Parkway. Despite the biting conditions, I like being in the high country in winter because the sky is so much clearer. You can see miles and miles further because there is no summer haze.

I’d love to be up here some time after a snow fall. The problem is the Blue Ridge Parkway closes when there’s snow, so it would be truly difficult to get there. Perhaps I should take up cross country skiing.

Once you’re standing on the summit of 6020′ Tennent Mountain be sure to look directly to your north. Far in the distance you can see the very large quartz deposit that gives Shining Rock Wilderness its name. Beyond Shining Rock is Cold Mountain, another of the sixers that make WNC so enjoyable. Looking down, to the northwest, I could see Birdstand Mountain. In all the times I’ve been on Tennent Mountain, I’ve never noticed it before. Now that I’ve been there, it’s another landmark that helps me understand the terrain.

We didn’t stay on top very long. The wind encouraged our descent. Continuing westward the Art Loeb drops down off Tennent into a saddle, then begins climbing again up Black Balsam Knob. Much of the trail is in a trench surrounded by rhododendron scrub, so it’s difficult to see much until you get up a couple hundred feet. Once you do though, the entire Blue Ridge opens up in every direction. It is marvelous.

I’ve already written an entire trip report about crossing Black Balsam Knob and Tennent Mountain, so I won’t repeat all the details. I will reiterate, though, that no matter the season this is a remarkable hike, one of my favorites. I have probably been on the Art Loeb Trail across Black Balsam Knob more than any other trail in Western North Carolina.

It was exciting to learn about Fork Mountain Trail and Birdstand Mountain. Perhaps some day I will try that hike from the Sunburst Campground end. I even enjoyed the bushwhacking we did on Blueberry Trail. The view of the Great Balsam Range is the best I’ve yet seen. Ivestor Gap Trail has so many options for short, medium and long day hikes. Go to Birdstand and return, or make a loop of it like we did. Go all the way to Shining Rock, or even to Cold Mountain if you want to overnight camp. You can’t go wrong in this land between the wildernesses.

Update April 2, 2014: Meanderthals took another trek to the Birdstand to see what it’s like in early spring. Because of the elevation, it’s still too early for wildflowers, but the heath was beginning to green some. The trail itself is barely passable as the thick blueberry bushes are really overtaking the terrain. It’s a good idea to wear long pants and long sleeves, and gaiters if you have them. Once this area begins greening in a couple weeks it will be pretty much impassable until probably Thanksgiving.

Across the Blue Ridge Parkway from Black Balsam Road is an unmarked trail that leads to some excellent overlooks of Pilot Mountain and the Daniel Ridge drainage. This trail isn’t on any of the national forest maps, but it is well-maintained and perhaps used to be a section of the Mountains to Sea Trail. We explored for probably a half mile, then returned.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Between mileposts 423 and 424 on the Blue Ridge Parkway, Scenic Hwy 215 crosses at Beech Gap. If you head about 1/4 mile north on 215, the famous Mountains to Sea Trail crosses from the Black Balsam area into Middle Prong Wilderness. The MtS winds through an ever-changing forest that runs the gamut of evergreens found in the high country of Western North Carolina. Past waterfalls and streams, through thickets and meadows, surrounded by 6000 foot tall mountain peaks, with the always present aroma of pine and spruce and fir, this stretch of the MtS to the Green Mountain Trail is a hiker’s delight. Climb a short way up Fork Ridge to a lonely outcrop on the eastern flank to gaze far and wide into the vast expanse of Shining Rock Wilderness. It doesn’t get much better. This hike occurred on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 from 10:00am to 2:05pm. Our plan was to take the Mountains to Sea Trail from Hwy 215 to its junction with Green Mountain Trail. We would then climb Fork Ridge near Green Knob to that lonely outcrop and return.

Are you perhaps looking for a day hike that will take you through a wide and diverse array of forests, alongside babbling mountain streams and waterfalls, and culminates with exceptional long distance vistas above 6000 feet? Sounds really enticing doesn’t it?

Well, strap on your hiking boots and backpack because I have one to tell you about. Up in the high country off the Blue Ridge Parkway in Pisgah National Forest are two designated wilderness areas with incredible hiking offerings. Shining Rock Wilderness is, no doubt, the more well known of the two, and yes it is fabulous. But if you’re interested in lesser traversed trails that are equally enthralling, Middle Prong Wilderness fills the bill.

These two wilderness areas abut each other, separated by Scenic Hwy 215, otherwise known as Lake Logan Road. Between mileposts 423 and 424 on the Blue Ridge Parkway, Hwy 215 crosses. Just a quarter mile north on 215 the Mountains to Sea Trail crosses 215 from the Black Balsams into Middle Prong Wilderness, named for the middle prong of the Pigeon River. Park on 215 and look for the unmarked, but obvious trailhead on the left side of the highway. It heads upward to the northwest.

The well-worn trail winds through a mixed forest of high country birch and beech and conifers, and the omnipresent WNC rhododendron. Don’t look for blaze markings in the wilderness as there aren’t any, but the trail is plenty easy to follow.

You come to a meadow surrounded by gorgeous black balsam spruce with two campsites, one at trail level, and another more secluded at the plateau of a small rise. These sites would be a nice pair for a double camping date. The Mountains to Sea Trail (MtS) continues through the meadow and eventually makes a decidedly southern turn.

You’ll hear the soothing sounds of the West Fork headwaters, a gentle breeze, and for us on this mid-December day, the unmistakable bay of bear dogs. They were miles away, but sound reverberates off the granite in the high country hollows. You will cross the creek twice, not difficult, except perhaps in spring when the water level may be up from snowmelt.

The trail seems pretty level, but is actually climbing at a very gradual pace, resulting in the appearance of the high granite cliffs and ridges far in the distance on either side of the trail. With a healthy rain the previous day, my companion and I were treated to a sight I hadn’t observed on two previous trips to this track. To our right, westerly, was a beautiful waterfall about 1/4 mile away. It was plunging about 70-80 feet over a sheer granite ledge. My guess is this is one of those surprise waterfalls that only appears on rare, wet occasions. It was a real treat.

As you proceed the forest becomes less dense with more of a low-lying scrub and “christmas tree” type appearance. The immature white pine, spruce and fir not only set a seasonal mood, but smell delightful. Catching this area after a recent snowfall would be a special joy. The trail again switches back to a northerly direction as you parallel the eastern face of 6110′ Mount Hardy on your left.

Continuing the push north, you’ll pass a small clearing that opens up a view to the northeast of the Black Balsam area and your first peak at Black Balsam Knob itself as well as Little Sam Knob. Those large mountains will be quite commanding at the final destination.

I love the next section of trail because it is a botanists delight. The sudden and distinct changes in the forest diversity are inspiring, and actually kind of eerie. Start with a good mix of beech, birch, spruce and fir, then suddenly enter an extremely dense, dark forest of white pine and black balsam. Next to no light reaches the ground which is soft and cushy from centuries of fallen needles. As you exit this aphotic alpine wood, you next enter an even more compact rhododendron grove. Don’t get off-trail here as you would likely be lost for days. The trail is clear, but either side is a convoluted jungle of twisted rhodo trunks. I thought of the trail builders when going through here.

On the other side, the trail begins a steeper climb then pops into another meadow with exceptional panoramic views to the west of the heart of Middle Prong Wilderness. We were surrounded by low-level valley fog that I always find fascinating as the higher peaks poke their tops through the murk. To me, it seems to give a majesty to the high country… living above the clouds.

We could really hear the howling of the hunting dogs now as we made the short but steep climb up to Fork Ridge. This is the hardest stretch of the hike, but still quite moderate, and it only lasts for a hundred yards or so. You’ll head back into the forest, dark again, mostly evergreen now with occasional glimpses of the surrounding wilderness on each side of the ridge. Shining Rock is to your right and Middle Prong to your left.

Once you top Fork Ridge, look closely for the trail junction with the Green Mountain Trail. It isn’t marked, but it comes in from your right and proceeds due north. If you miss it, the MtS continues on to Buckeye Gap. So if you reach the Buckeye Gap Trail, know that you have missed the Green Mountain Trail and gone too far. For this hike, you want to turn right on the Green Mountain Trail. Remember that this is wilderness, so there are no trail markers.

The ridge on the Green Mountain Trail is covered with “christmas tree” like spruce, tall grasses and fields of lichens and ground cedar — simply another gorgeous display of the flora presented in the high country. I love it! You will come to a campsite on your left that is surrounded by 12-foot spruce that make an excellent wind break. I’ve stopped here for a snack before, but today our lunch break would be on the outcrop overlooking the balds of Black Balsam.

It’s no more than half a mile past the campsite. The trail will dip and rise on Fork Ridge a couple times, but keep your eyes peeled to the right for a non-maintained spur trail heading to the east. It isn’t easy to spot, but when you see it, you’ll know it. It’s no more than 30 yards off trail to the outcrop, a perfect place for 3-4 people to take off their packs, sit on the terraced rock formation, and gaze for miles into the WNC high country wilderness. For the two of us, it was perfect.

The outcrop has a 180° perspective. To the northeast are the trio of grand mountains that make up Black Balsam. From left to right are the double-peaked 6050′ Sam Knob, then Sam’s junior, but no less impressive brother, Little Sam, and beyond them is the massive summit of 6214′ Black Balsam Knob. Far in the distance is Shining Rock Wilderness.

Directly east is Flat Laurel Creek and Wildcat Falls, with the 6000′ Chestnut and Silvermine Balds behind. Interestingly, Chestnut Bald no longer is. There is a very healthy stand of black balsam spruce on its summit.

Turning southeast you’ll see the Devil’s Courthouse, a mammoth outcropping right on the Blue Ridge Parkway that surveys the Blue Ridge as far as the eye can see. You can follow the Parkway as it carves its way along the crest of Pisgah Ridge, and the Hwy 215 ribbon twisting through Beech Gap.

It was a gorgeous day, near 50° in the sun, perfect hiking weather, with layer upon layer of clouds interspersed with sky. See the picture at the top of this post for an example (click for a larger image). To the south, and into the sun, those clouds were doing a crazy dance with the mountain summits that really caught our attention as we dined on fine soup, apricots and peanut butter. Only the best for the Meanderthals.

After lunch we pondered continuing on to Green Knob, but with the way that crazy sky looked, we thought perhaps it was best to turn around and head back. It’s no fun being caught in a storm at 5800′. Between wind, rain, hail and snow it can ruin your day in just a matter of minutes. Besides, we could save Green Knob for another day coming up the Green Mountain Trail from the Sunburst end.

It didn’t take long to realize our decision to head back was sound. As soon as we got out of the sun that was warming us on the outcrop, the temp was several degrees cooler in the forest. The breeze began to pick up as well and we quickly put back on the layers and headgear we had shed while enjoying our break. Each time we passed a clearing I could tell the clouds were getting just a little bit closer.

When we got back down off Fork Ridge and onto the flats of the MtS again, the breeze was sucking the wisps of fog into the gaps and hollows — quite a fascinating and mysterious sight. I’m accustomed to ground-level fog early in the morning. It’s always an alluring effect at mid-day.

We passed back through each of the disparate forests, back by Mount Hardy and the waterfall. By the time we got to the meadow with the dual campsites, it was sunny again. So no need for concern about bad weather, thank goodness.

It’s always a good idea to be totally aware of your surroundings when hiking in the high country, and to be prepared. I always take a rain jacket, no matter what. It’s also a good idea to have extra socks, gloves, hats and layers in your pack just in case. Particularly when hiking in December, or even later in winter, the temperature can change 20-30° very quickly. Sudden wind can be relentless, and if you get caught in a hail storm, it is life threatening. Just remember where you are. This is wilderness, not some friendly neighborhood civic park.

When we got back to the car, we put away our hiking gear and pulled out our conscientious “Leave No Trace” gear. When hiking in this vicinity once before, my friend and I had noticed a campsite near the road that was completely and totally littered. This site was so full of trash that it frankly offended us when we came upon it that day. We weren’t prepared back then, but on this day we were. By the time we were through we had filled two large trash bags with bottles and cans, milk jugs and aluminum foil — junk that did not belong in the wilderness.

Best HikeTo summarize, the Mountains to Sea and Green Mountain Trails in Middle Prong Wilderness should always be on your list of weather and seasonal appropriate hikes in the Western North Carolina high country. If you love forested hikes, you will see a wide variety. If you like the high vistas, the outcrop on Fork Ridge offers views that will inspire you. For the water enthusiasts, part of the trail even follows a babbling brook with the chance to see a surprise waterfall. I highly recommend it. For us, it was a great day, and I would label this one a best hike.

Updated August 26, 2014: Time for another visit to this magnificent region of Middle Prong Wilderness. Realizing we had never been there in summer, we wanted to check out the trail condition. There were a few spots in the meadows where the late summer foliage like the goldenrod were hanging over the trail, but most of it was still easily navigable. There was a slight hint of autumn in the air and on the trees, making it a most delightful day.

We found a line of puffy white clouds wafting up the valley formed by Hwy 215 between Fork Ridge and the Balsams that prevented a clear view of the Sams, but it was still delightful at the rock outcropping on Green Knob. I know I will continue to return for this hike time and time again. It is simply one of the best in the WNC high country.

Update July 2, 2016: Here are a few more photos from a visit in early summer. Compare for seasonal differences.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Milepost 420 on the Blue Ridge Parkway is where you will find Black Balsam Road. It’s a short drive to a spruce forest where the Art Loeb Trail crosses the road and heads up onto the balds. This is North Carolina high country. There are several mountains greater than 6000 feet with treeless summits, affording spectacular 360° views of the surrounding Blue Ridge. I love it here. I can’t get enough of the natural beauty to be seen along the Art Loeb Trail as you cross Black Balsam Knob and then Tennent Mountain. The land is rich with blueberry bushes and rhododendron thickets, with mountaintop grasses and spruce groves as far as the eye can see. I will always keep coming to the Shining Rock Wilderness as long as I am able. This hike occurred on Thursday, July 5, 2012 from 7:45am to 11:50am. Our plan was to take the Art Loeb Trail up and over Black Balsam Knob, Tennent Mountain, then on to Ivestor Gap. From there we would climb Grassy Cove Top, then return to our car on the Ivestor Gap Trail.

The first part of this hike has already been reported. No sense in being redundant. So go to the Black Balsam and Tennent Mountain trail report to read about the first few miles, then return here to pick up on the back side of Tennent Mountain.

As much as I love this section of the Art Loeb Trail, it is only fair to warn you about trail conditions in the high country. This trail is extremely popular. Combine that with storm drainage, and the trail is very trenched across the balds. On occasion the trail rims will be shoulder height or deeper. Also, in summer, the mountaintop grasses grow 3-4 feet high and cascade over the trail. There will be long stretches where you will not be able to see your feet. This means you also can’t see the floor of the trail, so be careful of rocks and holes. In the morning, there is almost always a heavy dew on the tall grass, so long pants and long sleeves are recommended. You will get quite wet.

Now, having said all that, have I told you how beautiful it is? From the moment you pop above the black balsam spruce forest the Blue Ridge Mountains open up in every direction. It’s pretty hazy in summer, but in winter and spring you can see South Carolina, and Great Smoky Mountains National Park to the west 60 miles away. Other high mountains are clearly visible like Sam Knob, Mt. Hardy, Green Mountain, Cold Mountain and Mt. Pisgah. The majesty will take your breath.

As you begin the descent on the north side of Tennent Mountain you enter blueberry country. Some of the bushes have been here so long they stand as much as 10 feet high. In late summer, when the berries are fully ripened, there are hundreds of people in the wilderness competing with the bears and birds for the pickings. There’s plenty enough for everyone. They’re very sweet.

The trail winds through these tall bushes for roughly a half mile before approaching the clearing that is Ivestor Gap. There’s an interesting sight on the left, old dead spruce trees that have turned white. Only the trunks are left, and they’ve lost all pigment. There are clusters of these white trunks scattered throughout the wilderness.

Ivestor Gap is a major trail junction. The Art Loeb and Ivestor Gap Trails cross here. The Fork Mountain Trail comes in from the northwest and the Graveyard Ridge and Greasy Cove Trails come in from the east. You will almost always see tents pitched in this grassy cove, especially in August during blueberry season. More than once I’ve encountered lost hikers here who are so glad to see someone with a map. [hint]

Both the Art Loeb and the Ivestor Gap Trails head north from here into Shining Rock Wilderness. On this day, we were taking the Art Loeb to Grassy Cove Top. It is the northward trail on the right. You can also tell because it is the one going up. If you’re going deep into the wilderness to Shining Rock, The Narrows, and on to Cold Mountain, it is best to take the Ivestor Gap Trail and avoid the rollercoaster of all the mountains and gaps.

Shortly past Ivestor Gap, the Art Loeb enters a small pine forest that is the only time you won’t be in direct sunlight on this hike. You did remember to lather up with sunscreen before you started, right? Don’t get used to the shade though, it doesn’t last long.

The trail actually skirts around Grassy Cove Top to the east, winding around to approach the summit from the north. This is thick, thick laurels, blueberries and grasses. It’s very difficult to see your feet and the trail. Two in our party of three took a fall, including me. Fortunately, no harm done. Meanderthals do bleed, but our hide is tough. It comes with age.

The spur trail to the summit of Grassy Cove Top isn’t marked. You just have to keep an eye out for it on your left. You will be on the north side of the mountain and the spur takes off due south, upward. It’s very narrow, and not particularly well defined, even tighter than the Art Loeb was around the mountain. It may be easier to see in winter when the bushes and grasses are down, but this was my first time to this specific place.

It’s only a couple hundred feet climb in about a quarter mile up this thick, tight trail. As you approach the summit, it begins to clear out some. There are a few grassy areas with fire rings, although I wonder who in their right mind would camp on top of a 6000 foot bald. The weather is quick and dangerous. By now we were pretty hungry. Just about the time we were wondering if we should simply sit down on the grass, we reached a perfect rocky outcropping to rest our weary bones.

While we enjoyed lunch, I setup the tripod to grab some pictures of the amazing scene. Including Grassy Cove Top that we were sitting on, we could see five mountains that measure over 6000 feet. That’s the photo at the top of this post. You can click it for a larger view. Looking southward, Tennent Mountain, with Black Balsam Knob behind it were straight ahead. The double-peaked Sam Knob was to the southwest and further to the west was Mt. Hardy over in the Middle Prong Wilderness.

Even the clouds were beginning to cooperate. There were a few puffy whites beginning to form to help with distance perspective. This is one of those sights you want to stay and enjoy. With lunch and good conversation we stayed on Grassy Cove Top about half an hour, and unlike the rest of the hike, had the summit to ourselves.

We got to thinking that since there was a spur trail from Art Loeb up the northern side of Grassy Cove Top, there is probably one down the southern side too, back to Ivestor Gap. So we went looking. Sure enough, much to our delight, there was one. This would save probably 20 minutes on the return trip. What we didn’t factor in was how steep and rocky it would be.

And deceiving too. We came to several forks that ended up being false trails. With teamwork, checking each one, we were able to stay on the correct descent. And quite the descent it was, a whole lot steeper than the climb on the northern side. Lacking any switchbacks because it isn’t an official, maintained trail, it poured straight down the hillside. There were a couple times I had difficulty stopping my momentum and was literally running downhill, kinda dangerous in the rocky terrain.

We all made it down safely though and back to the soft grasses of Ivestor Gap. If you come out this way and choose to go up Grassy Cove Top on the southern face, the spur trail is about 100 feet north on the Ivestor Gap Trail from the crossroads. Keep in mind however how much steeper it is than walking around the mountain on the Art Loeb Trail.

Knowing it was all logging road the rest of the way back, it was time to zip off the wet bottoms of the long pants and get down to short sleeves. Temps in Western North Carolina have been in the nineties the past couple weeks, but it’s usually at least 10 degrees cooler in the high country. Still, by late morning it was getting warm.

It’s about 2.5 miles back to Black Balsam Road on a very rocky old logging road that is the Ivestor Gap Trail. Along the way you’ll pass several springs, if you’re short on water, and have a magnificent view of the Great Balsams Range off to the west. Otherwise, it’s mostly just trudgery hiking. The good news is it’s almost entirely flat, so your climbing for the day is over.

When you reach the parking area at the end of Black Balsam Road, you aren’t quite finished. It’s still nearly a half mile on paved road back to the Art Loeb Trailhead where you park. It is quite enjoyable though as you’re surrounded by spruce forest and have views off to the Flat Laurel area.

Unless you happen to get hit with some nasty weather, you really can’t go wrong up in the high country of the Blue Ridge Parkway. I’ve been coming at least once every season for years and still love it as much as the first time. It’s fun to become familiar with the landmarks, and see what the vegetation looks like at different times of the year. I highly recommend this casual four hour hike to Grassy Cove Top. It’s only moderately difficult and filled with stunning mountain scenery. By the way, I left a Summit Stone along the way.

Updated August 25, 2016: The dog days of summer is a good time to hit the high country in the Black Balsam area of Pisgah National Forest on the way to Shining Rock Wilderness. It’s usually quite a bit cooler than the valleys below, although not on this particular day. I’ve never felt it so hot above 6,000 feet.

The clouds seemed to be chasing us as we climbed up and over Black Balsam Knob, Tennent Mountain, then wound our way through the blueberries to the foot of Grassy Cove Top at Ivestor Gap. It would be clear, then a big cloud would waft over, and then the sun would be relentless. Such is the high country. It changes in a heartbeat. See what you think of the pictures below. Feel free to leave your comments as well.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Frequently. That is how many times I have done this hike. So many, I’ve lost count. I love the western North Carolina high country, and this area along the Blue Ridge Parkway known as Black Balsam has nearly a dozen peaks over 5,800 feet elevation, with Black Balsam Knob being the highest at 6,214. This area has some of the highest hiking on the Parkway. Many of these mountains are what are called balds, because they do not have trees on their tops, not because they are above treeline. There has been a series of fires in this area, the last in the 1940s, leaving mostly scrub. Blueberry bushes and rhododendron are plentiful, but no trees, and that makes for fabulous 360 degree views of the Blue Ridge Mountains as far as the eye can see. Did I say I love it here? This report is from a hike on Thursday, April 21, 2011. We started at 10:15AM and finished near 2:00PM. I have mixed in some photos also from May 20, 2010 so you can see how much the scenery changes in one short month. There were two of us on this day and we planned to take Section 3 of the Art Loeb Trail to the summit of Black Balsam Knob and then on to the summit of Tennent Mountain. We then planned to return to the trailhead, cross the Black Balsam forest road and head across Section 2 of the Art Loeb to Chestnut Bald and back, a total of six miles.

A little more than a year ago, I got involved with the Friends of the Blue Ridge Parkway Adopt an Overlook Program. It had been an extremely harsh winter along the parkway from Mt. Pisgah to Waynesville, the “high country,” and there were a lot of downed trees on both the road and the trails. I wanted to do something to give back for all the enjoyment the area had given me. I was assigned the Pounding Mill Overlook at milepost 413.2, so I stop there every time I go by in order to pick up trash and look for other problems. The overlook sits right on a hairpin curve in the road, so there is a terrific 240 degree view of the Pisgah Ridge to the east, Looking Glass Rock to the south, and Nantahala National Forest far away to the west. On this morning my friend and I were treated to an even better view than usual. The clouds were laying low over the valleys and made it look like there was smoke coming out of Looking Glass Rock. That’s the photo at the top of this post. You can click it for a larger view. What a great way to start the day!

The weather was threatening, but the radar looked like we had about a five hour window to get the hike in. Being good Meanderthals, when hiking in the high country we always come prepared with rain and wind gear. The weather can change in a hurry at 6000 feet, and we don’t want to get caught with nothing but the clothes on our back. I love the Art Loeb Trail so much, but unfortunately it is really getting carved up from over use. Particularly in this stretch over Black Balsam and Tennent, the trail is horribly trenched, and has become even worse because now water uses the trail trench for storm runoff. It seems deeper each time I do this hike. If they ever ask for volunteers to rebuild the trail, I will definitely be in line. The first 1/3 mile goes through a beautiful black balsam forest and climbs modestly, then pops out onto the bald section of the mountain where we could see Graveyard Fields to our right. There is a lone old, gnarly balsam tree that sits right on the trail. I love this tree. I stop to admire it every time I go by. You can tell it has been through some very tough winters, but it continues to hang in there. Just another feature that makes this hike so special to me.

Black Balsam Knob is not steep. It is a gradual climb of a few hundred feet to the top. There are several outcroppings along the way where I always stop to take pictures. The summit is large, not a peak. You could probably fit three football fields on top of Black Balsam Knob. It is a joy just to walk around the top. There is a plaque honoring Art Loeb himself on the southern side. There are rhododendron blooming in June, tall wheat-like grasses with wispy tops in the summer months, and blueberries enough to turn your tongue blue in August. There is a great view from the eastern side of the next destination, Tennent Mountain, with Mt. Pisgah, topped with its TV tower, behind it.

To get from Black Balsam to Tennent Mountain, the trail goes down into a sort of saddle, and then back up the other side; about 1/2 mile total. The down and up elevation change is roughly 300 feet. This northeast back-side of Black Balsam is literally covered with small rhododendron bushes. It is breathtaking during the bloom season of mid-June. Unfortunately, a lot of people know that, so this is the worst stretch of the trail. The trench is now close to four feet deep down the hill. With the bushes that surround the trail standing another three feet, I cannot see anything but the bottom of the trail. It is rocky and rugged, a twisted ankle just waiting to happen, so be careful. Also, watch for a heavy downpour. This trench will be full of water quickly. The saddle area is a clearing with great views to the north and south. This day there was a raven catching the thermals just above us. I’m no expert determining a raven from a crow, but they tell me a raven is a lot larger, and has more of a “kronk” sound than a “caw.” This guy was definitely a biggun. He landed in a tree just a hundred feet away and posed for several pictures. Kronk!

The climb up to the summit of Tennent Mountain is short and not too strenuous, but again it is through a rocky, trenched trail. Unlike Black Balsam, Tennent has a distinct peak with a rocky top. There is also a plaque there, honoring Gaillard Stoney Tennent (1872-1953) who established organized hiking in North Carolina. The views are extraordinary. To the south is the rugged pluton Looking Glass Rock. This is perhaps the highest point for viewing it. To the east is the unmistakable cone of Mt. Pisgah. In the distance to the west is the Middle Prong Wilderness. Black Balsam consumes the southwestern vantage, and the Art Loeb Trail continues north as far as you can see into the Shining Rock Wilderness. It eventually gets to Cold Mountain, and on to its end at the Daniel Boone Scout Camp.

On the way back we grabbed a nice rock in the saddle area to enjoy our lunch. A couple other young hikers stopped to chat. They were obviously going a lot further than we did because they had full packs rather than day packs, and their packs were stuffed with fire wood. There is a choice to make about the return. We chose to go back up on Black Balsam the way we came. There is another trail that connects with an old logging road that skirts around Black Balsam to avoid the climb. The logging road comes out at the end of the Black Balsam Knob Road. We encountered two more groups of hikers up top. Both groups were of the tourist variety because they had no water and no gear; one from Atlanta, the other from Florida. I hope they got off the mountain before the impending storm.

Best HikeWhen we got back to the car, I shed my vest before we resumed with the trail on the other side of the road. Again, straight into a thick old-growth black balsam forest it goes. You really have to pay close attention to the blaze markers because the trail is like a maze through the trees. I have been off-trail here before, and while it doesn’t take long to find it, it’s a bit disconcerting. More than one person I’ve been with has commented about J.R.R. Tolkien and the Mirkwood Forest. I won’t go into great detail about this section of the Art Loeb Trail because I’ve mentioned it in another trail report, but this trail is forest all the way. It crosses Silvermine Bald (a forested bald, go figure) and hugs the ridge above the Blue Ridge Parkway for 1.5 miles to Chestnut Bald. The view from Chestnut Bald is 180 degrees and is one of the best I have seen anywhere along the Parkway. This three mile stretch of the Art Loeb Trail from Chestnut Bald, across Black Balsam, and on to Tennent Mountain may be my favorite hike in all of western North Carolina. If you happen to be by this way, you really should try to allocate a couple hours to check out Black Balsam Knob and Tennent Mountain. You won’t be disappointed.

Updated July 11, 2014: I made a summer time visit to the Black Balsam area so you could compare the scenery. Here is another photo gallery that shows how tall and lush the foliage is.

Updated May 12, 2015: My brother Dave and I took another trip into the high country along the Blue Ridge Parkway, starting at Black Balsam. Unfortunately, about 20 minutes into our climb up to the summit, a squall moved in with gale force wind and piercing rain. We hustled to get our bad weather gear on, then made a bee-line for the Black Balsam Forest to get out of the elements.

We headed west on the Art Loeb Trail through the forest, and by the time we met the Mountains to Sea Trail, the weather had cleared. There was still a dark overcast when we reached Chestnut Bald, but as we enjoyed lunch the clouds began to dissipate, and the sun enlightened Looking Glass Rock and the surrounding woodlands of Pisgah and Nantahala National Forests.

Turned out to be a delighful day for photos. See what you think.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Cold Mountain gained national attention following the publishing of Charles Frazier’s Civil War era novel in 1997. Western NC hiking enthusiasts have known of its appeal for much longer. Cold Mountain is a real mountain that stretches 6030′ and is located in the Shining Rock Wilderness and Pisgah National Forest in North Carolina. You can reach the spur trail to the summit on the Art Loeb Trail; section 3 from the south, or section 4 from the west. The trail was named for a member of the Carolina Mountain Club who devoted much of his senior years to caring for the area. It is one of the most popular hiking trails in western NC, and deservedly so. This hike occurred on November 11, 2010 beginning at 8:00AM and ending about 3:00PM. The plan was to take section 4 of the Art Loeb Trail from the Daniel Boone Scout Camp to the summit spur trail at Deep Gap, then on to the top. The descent would be back the way we came.

View Art Loeb Trail to Cold Mountain in a larger map

It takes awhile to get to the Daniel Boone Scout Camp. It is truly out in the rural country, but isn’t that what you’d expect for wilderness hiking? The Art Loeb Trail is near the back of the camp, and is well marked with a large sign. The morning was beautiful, brisk and sunny. On the first mile or so of the hike, I could tell it was an area near a wealth of seasonal campers. The trail was very well maintained with lots of rock and log stairs to aid with climbing. The camp counselors no doubt enjoy having the free camper labor to take care of trail maintenance. This time of year, though, the trail was completely covered with fallen leaves. The hike uses two trails: the Art Loeb for the first 3.8 miles to Deep Gap, then the Cold Mountain summit spur for another 1.5 miles.

It’s a steep climb right off the bat, then the trail takes a series of switch backs, jumping nearly 1200 feet in the first 1.5 miles. Our crew was the usual three, and of course we whined as always about all the up hill. We wouldn’t be Meanderthals if we didn’t. It’s a thick hardwood forest on the way to Deep Gap, and in November with the leaves off the trees, we could see some of the surrounding mountains, as well as what lie ahead of us on the trail. We crossed Sorrell Creek twice, the first time after about a mile and a half, the 2nd another mile later. The 3.8 miles on the Art Loeb climb a total of 1800 feet with the first part and the last part being the steepest. In between was a gradual grade. There are a couple stretches where the trail follows an old logging road. We had heard about a spring near Deep Gap, so when we came upon it, we knew we were close… about 2/10 of a mile. That last bit will test your legs and lungs.

At Deep Gap we encountered a group of bear hunters and stopped to chat for awhile. Their dogs were beautiful, and anxious to find a scent. The dogs were all wearing GPS collars, and the hunters had receivers for the signals. I’ve never been hunting, but this seemed an interesting application of technology. It took us a little more than two hours to get to Deep Gap, so the breather was nice, especially considering we still had to climb another 1000 feet on the Cold Mountain spur trail.

From Deep Gap to the summit, the forest and terrain decidedly changed. The wind and weather ravaged trees are gnarled and lichen covered. The rhododendron thickets we passed on the way up to Deep Gap now changed to the heartier laurels. There are outcroppings near the trail that foretold what was to come at the top. There are a number of camp sites along the trail, as Cold Mountain is a popular destination for over-nighters. After about 45 minutes of strenuous climbing, we reached the base of the summit where there are dozens of primitive camp sites. They are fairly exposed, so if I were planning on camping there, I would certainly hope it wasn’t a windy night.

The summit of Cold Mountain is a long, narrow ridge that is mostly exposed granite with laurel bushes and other ground cover clinging to the rock for dear life. There is a 180 degree panorama looking south toward the Black Balsam area. You can clearly see Mt. Pisgah, Black Balsam Knob, Sam Knob, Shining Rock, and The Narrows in the distance, and Deep Gap below from any number of rocky outcrops that dot the summit. To the east is the Pisgah Ridge (seen in the photo at the top of this post), and looking west reveals the Great Balsam Mountains and the Middle Prong Wilderness. We found a flat outcrop with a great view of the total area before us and enjoyed our lunch, along with the awe-inspiring scenery. We stayed for about an hour before making ourselves get ready for the descent. It was hard to leave this picturesque setting.

The problem with fallen leaves on a steep descent is slippage. We were fine going back down to Deep Gap, but boy was the Art Loeb Trail treacherous on the way back down. I managed to avoid falling, but I certainly slipped a lot. It’s impossible to tell what is under the leaves… roots, loose rock, wet trail… and the leaves were thick. One of my partners had three separate falls on the way down. I feel confident that section 4 of the Art Loeb is as well maintained as the other three sections are. Art Loeb is generally a beautiful, however well-used trail. But you can’t do much about leaves. That’s what happens in the Fall. The leaves fall, then hikers fall, it’s Fall. For the last three miles of our descent we were delighted to be joined by one of the bear dogs we saw at Deep Gap. She followed us all the way down to the trailhead. Hopefully those GPS locators helped the hunters retrieve their dog. Near the entrance of the scout camp, we stopped for a bit to take in a beautiful scene of a pond reflecting the sky, forest, and an old barn.

On the drive back home, we took a little side trip along Hwy. 215 to take a glance at Lake Logan. It’s a small, recreational lake with lots of picnic tables and cozy pullouts. As usual, I couldn’t resist a few photographs. As we crossed back over Wagon Road Gap on Hwy. 276, we popped on the Blue Ridge Parkway for one last view from the Cold Mountain Overlook. It is a majestic sight. The mountain dominates the surrounding area. One of these days I will approach Cold Mountain from section 3 of the Art Loeb Trail. The ascent isn’t as steep, but the distance is a lot longer. So much hiking, so little time.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.