If you are looking for a solid prep hike for the Appalachian Trail or just want to hike one of National Geographic Adventure’s top North American hikes, look no further than the Art Loeb Trail near Brevard, NC.

Rather than a loop trail, the Art Loeb Trail runs northbound for 30 miles from the Davidson River Campground to the Daniel Boone Boy Scout Camp. The hike ranges from climbing up incredibly hilly terrain in the green tunnel to walking along ridgelines. The trail is no walk in the park, with trail section ratings ranging from difficult to most difficult. While the Art Loeb Trail is challenging, it is doable to complete in a weekend, if so desired.

No surprise; you can hike the Art Loeb Trail northbound or southbound. Some people believe the northbound direction is much hillier, and thus choose to hike southbound. Either way, you are going to encounter some climbing. Northbound is a bit more challenging.

Because the trail is not a loop, you will either need to take two cars and park at both trailheads, which are an hour drive apart, or use a shuttle service or guide service, which ranges from $75 to $125, depending on the company. Keep in mind that depending on which option you choose, it will either add time or cost to your trip.

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Popular trails in the Shining Rock and Middle Prong Wilderness along the Blue Ridge Parkway in Haywood County, North Carolina are included in a trail improvement plan for the Pisgah National Forest.

“Each year, several million visitors come to experience the natural beauty and rich history of the Pisgah,” said Dave Casey, the head ranger for the Pisgah district of the Pisgah National Forest.

The Pisgah district has 380 miles of trails that “are well- loved by locals,” but have also become a national travel destination, said Casey.

The popularity of outdoor recreation in the Pisgah Ranger district prompted the creation of long-range recreation plan to shore up trails. Trails that are over-used or poorly designed have eroded into deep trenches. Wear-and-tear from pounding feet, bike tires and horse hooves are exacerbated by the elements.

“The project is not intended to address all possible improvements on the Pisgah Ranger District, but includes timely projects that consider the social, ecological, and economic elements of sustainable recreation,” said Casey.

The plan calls for rerouting trail segments that are too steep, too eroded to fix or too close to streams. The plan also calls for connecting trails to make more loop routes and reducing conflicts between hikers, mountain bikers and equestrians.

Learn more here…

When looking for some WNC high country scenery and perhaps refreshing cool air on a warm day, one of the first destinations I think of is the Black Balsam area at milepost 420 on the Blue Ridge Parkway. There are half a dozen mountains here that stand above 6,000 feet, with encompassing 360° views from their treeless summits. This land that lies between the Shining Rock and Middle Prong Wildernesses is pierced by the Art Loeb Trail, a favorite of anyone who visits the Pisgah Ranger District.

My hiking pal Ken and I have walked this region many, many times over the years and we still come back for more at least once per season. If you’re looking for details about the terrain, here is my trail report, but for this post I simply wanted to share some photos of this visit on May 31, 2017. As you will see, the weather couldn’t have been better. There were quite a number of other hikers out and about that day with the same idea… to enjoy the glorious Blue Ridge Mountains.

We stopped a lot… to take pictures, to marvel at the breathtaking viewshed and colorful wildflowers, to enjoy a picnic-like lunch and each other’s company… simply to soak it all in. Time seems to stand still on the trail, but before we knew it we had finished the five mile loop and had recorded another fantastic memory.

Following is a pictorial essay of our day spent on Black Balsam and Tennent Mountains. Please feel free to leave your comments and suggestions below the gallery. Thanks for visiting!

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Every couple weeks or so during the green seasons I travel up to milepost 413 on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Friends of the BRP has a volunteer program called Adopt-an-Overlook that I have participated in for six years. I am responsible for keeping Pounding Mill Overlook clean and green, trash free, and desirable for the tourists. Saturday, August 13, 2016 was one of those days.

I’ve enjoyed the opportunity to participate in this program, and I believe it has paid off in ways other than simply clean overlooks on the Parkway. Since I began picking up trash at Pounding Mill in 2011, I have noticed that there is less and less litter as time goes by. I have no scientific evidence to back this up, but it seems when visitors see how clean the overlooks are, they do their part to keep it that way by not throwing out trash. People seem to take pride in our beautiful public lands and wild places.

Usually when I go up there I combine it with a hike nearby. My plan on this day was to hike the Art Loeb Trail across Black Balsam and Tennent Mountains to compile some photographic memories. Sometimes plans just don’t work out though. Elevations above about 5,500 feet were completely obscured in a massive fog bank. I went about half way up the Black Balsam summit, couldn’t see more than 20 feet, so I turned around. I would look for more photo opportunities below the clouds. Following are the results. Please feel free to leave your comments below the gallery.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Looking for a short, easy, serene getaway in the high country that offers outstanding long distance views of the Blue Ridge Mountains? This is the trail for you. This little stretch of the famous Mountains to Sea Trail will take you from Black Balsam Road, through a dark and deep balsam spruce forest, across Silvermine Bald and on to Chestnut Bald to a splendid overlook of Looking Glass Rock, Pilot Mountain, and Pisgah National Forest’s Cradle of Forestry. If you have your binoculars or a zoom lens, you can see all the way to Lake Jocassee in South Carolina, and to the Black Mountains northeast of Asheville. This is one of my go to trails when I just want to sit and meditate for awhile. Thisvisit was on Wednesday, October 21, 2015 from 12:00 noon to 2:30PM. My plan was to take the MST to Chestnut Bald, then return.

Just to make sure you know where this is, when you drive up Black Balsam Road from the Blue Ridge Parkway the trailhead is on the left. Most hiking in this area occurs on the right side of the road, but this one goes toward the south.

The trails starts out through a very dark black balsam spruce forest, one that would be easy to walk in circles if not for the white blaze marks on the trees. So be sure to look for the markings or you could become disoriented quite fast.

After a quarter mile you’ll pop out into a clearing with a view of the majestic Black Balsam Knob behind you. There are occasional primitive campsites sprinkled about, made apparent by the unsightly fire rings.

The giant trees change to bushes for a few hundred yards, mostly blueberry. It’s fun to watch these shrubs evolve through the seasons, starting as bright green in spring, developing their fruit in late summer, changing to a fire engine red in autumn, then losing their leaves completely in October. That is the stage I found them in on this recent trip.

You will then enter another spruce forest as the trail moves over to hug the rim of the cliffs high above the Blue Ridge Parkway. You will no doubt hear the traffic far below you, especially those dang noisy Harley Davidsons that are so common on the Parkway. We try to keep pollution away from our eyes and noses. It would be nice to reduce the ear pollution as well.

Watch for the occasional short side trail on the left that will take you to small overlooks of Pisgah National Forest stretched out in front of you to the south and east. But you ain’t seen nothin’ yet.

For example, this view of Looking Glass Rock is from one of the spur trails on Silvermine Bald.

If you’re here in Spring, among the wildflowers to look for along the trail are multi-colored trillium as well as pink shell azalea. You’re also likely to find plenty of moss and lichens during all seasons, including the unusual reindeer lichen that normally grows in Canada, but was deposited here in the Blue Ridge and Smokies high country during one of the Ice Ages.

Just about a mile into your hike you will come to the junction with the Art Loeb Trail along the rim of Silvermine Bald. It is climbing up from the Blue Ridge Parkway far below. Turn right here to stay on the Mountains to Sea Trail. Soon after the trail makes a hundred foot descent into a gap and a small meadow. Folks use this meadow as another primitive campsite. In summer you are likely to find turk’s cap lilies growing here.

On the far side of the meadow you will climb back up the hundred feet you dropped before. Keep your eyes peeled on the left for the very large rock outcrop that denotes your arrival at Chestnut Bald overlook, the destination for this trail report. Unlike the other bald mountaintops that are so common in Western North Carolina like Roan Mountain, Max Patch, and even Black Balsam, Silvermine Bald and Chestnut Bald really no longer are. Bald, that is.

But they do have these wonderful natural overlooks that I think are among the most picturesque viewpoints in all of Pisgah National Forest. From this outcrop on Chestnut Bald you can see the cliffs plunging below Silvermine Bald to your left, with the north and west faces of Looking Glass Rock jutting up from the valley below. Directly in front of you is the long spine of Shuck Ridge leading to the pointed top summit of Pilot Mountain.

If you squint your eyes, on a clear day you can see Lake Jocassee 40 miles away in South Carolina. You can’t see it because of trees, but directly to your right is the massive stone face of Devils Courthouse. I almost always enjoy a meal here, and totally relax. The beauty of the scenery calms and soothes me. When I simply want to get away for a few hours from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, I like to come here.

This is the view to the east from Chestnut Bald overlook. I think it’s one of the best around.

I have been sitting at this spot when the entire panorama was engulfed in fog. I could still envision what I knew to be there. So strong is my remembrance of the beauty of the scene that I can picture it with my mind’s eye. I have been here every season except winter. The Blue Ridge Parkway here in the high country is closed in winter. But there is a means to access this spot with a longish hike from Hwy 215. Perhaps this coming winter I will treat myself.

If you continue straight ahead on the Mountains to Sea Trail beyond Chestnut Bald, it eventually does spill out onto Hwy 215, then resumes on the other side of the road into the Middle Prong Wilderness. But on this day I was content to enjoy the serenity offered by my seat on the eons-old granite of my favorite outcrop, then turn around.

On the way back, the sun angle had changed so I took some more pictures, and took my time. I did encounter a young couple with backpacks who were no doubt planning an overnight in the wilderness. Their black lab seemed very excited by the opportunity. I can’t blame him. But these were the only other folks I saw all day. That is until I got into the mess of leaf peepers on the Parkway.

To summarize, this is a very nice hike that isn’t at all difficult, but will enable you to see some of the best views that Pisgah National Forest and the Blue Ridge Parkway have to offer. You might want to leave the toddlers at home for this one because there is some exposure to cliff edges. So too if you have an extreme fear of heights. The overlooks can be somewhat frightening.

Otherwise, this one is short and easy for the whole family. It’s a great seasonal hike too. If I make it in winter this year, I will come back here to share my experiences and hopefully post some pictures of the white stuff. Y’know, all those crazies getting in the traffic jam at Graveyard Fields can have it. I’ll take my favorite little hike all by myself.

Update May 3, 2016: Spring comes to the high country too. It’s later than down in the valleys, but this visit treated me to the earliest of the wildflowers and the first greening of the new season. It’s neat too, peering into the much greener lowlands. The weather was ideal, in the sixties all day with a nice breeze. Once the typical morning fog lifted, all the cloud cover was above the endless ridges that stretch far, far away. Here are some new photos for your enjoyment, including a really out of place peony that was growing on a hillside.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

There is a notch between two wildernesses in the Pisgah National Forest high country. Shining Rock Wilderness is to the northeast, and Middle Prong Wilderness is to the west of this pie-shaped cut in the topology. In between are two bald mountaintops that exceed 6,000 feet elevation. To the locals the area is called simply… Black Balsam. The air is fresh (usually), the wildflowers abundant, and the adventure plentiful. Under normal circumstances, the views from these treeless summits are fantastic, oft times exceeding 50 miles. In this report you will learn, however, why this was not a normal circumstance. Join me as I take you high above Pisgah National Forest and the Blue Ridge Parkway to Black Balsam Knob and Sam Knob. I climbed the two bald peaks on Tuesday, July 7, 2015 beginning at 7:00AM and finishing at 11:45AM. My plan was to take the Art Loeb Trail to the summit of Black Balsam Knob until I could see Shining Rock, return, then take the Sam Knob Summit Trail.

And what are those special circumstances I mentioned above? Western Canada, Alaska, and the Pacific Northwest have been burning for a month. The prevailing wind of the jetstream has been bringing the smoke from the wildfires all the way to the Great Smoky Mountains and the Blue Ridge Mountains on a daily basis. The air is extremely hazy. Visibility has been reduced to no more than 10 miles. You will notice the haze as you dive into the photo gallery at the bottom of this report.

Starting my day at Pounding Mill Overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway just before dawn, I hoped for a brilliant sunrise. I volunteer there for the National Park Service by picking up trash, looking for wind blown debris, checking storm drains for clogs, and other general upkeep. Parkway volunteers contribute more than 50,000 hours each year that would otherwise fall to the budget constrained National Park Service. It also just happens to keep the Parkway looking clean and green.

Next stop… Art Loeb Trailhead to Black Balsam Knob. Located at the top of Black Balsam Road (milepost 420) on the right, it shares this trailhead with the Mountains to Sea Trail. They both cross from the spruce forest on the left side of the road. 10 yards off the road, the MtS trail goes right, and down. They both have white trail blaze, so be sure you take the Art Loeb. It continues straight ahead, and into the dark forest. You immediately realize how popular this area is. After years and years of overuse, the trail has become a trench, sometimes as deep as your waist.

It’s 10 minutes through the forest where you pop out for your first views of the Black Balsam summit ahead, and the Graveyard Fields area along the Parkway to your right. This time of year, the wispy native grasses stand shoulder height with long, grainy tops that wave in the omnipresent breeze. The climb to the summit begins in earnest now, not especially steep, but ever upward. There are rocky plateaus along the way that provide natural photo ops, as well as a place to catch a short breather.

The plateaus along the Art Loeb Trail are covered with this exposed wavy granite. That is the double-humped Sam Knob in the background, the later destination for this hike.

As you top a false summit, the trail takes a slight turn to the east and begins the final ascent to the Black Balsam crest. At the top is a large rocky outcropping that peers far and wide into the depths of Pisgah National Forest. There is a commemorative plaque here, dedicated to Art Loeb, an early member of the Carolina Mountain Club who loved these mountains and spent a great deal of time working to protect and preserve them. I almost always sit here for a least a few minutes and embrace the scene, not only as Art Loeb did, but also the Cherokee people hundreds of years before.

Behind you, to the north, is the massive expanse of the Black Balsam Knob summit. Larger than 7-8 football fields and standing above 6,200 feet, this rounded apex is totally worth exploring. There are seemingly trails in every which direction that have developed over the years as thousands of visitors have taken their own path across the summit. Please don’t make even more.

If you stay in a generally northward direction, you will remain on the Art Loeb Trail. I got to watch a robin toying with a worm, and then a raven chase the robin away. My goal on this day was to go to the northern tip of the crest where you can usually recognize the bright white quartz of Shining Rock far distant in the wilderness.

Along the way you experience magnificent views of Sam Knob and the Middle Prong Wilderness to the west. On your right, eastward, is Tennent Mountain (another 6ixer) and the tower-topped peak of Mt. Pisgah. The Art Loeb eventually continues over Tennent and then drops down to Ivestor Gap and into Shining Rock Wilderness. Off to the north are the imposing shoulders of Cold Mountain, and ridge after ridge after ridge that fall into the distance as far as your eye, and imagination, will take you.

On this day, that wasn’t very far, unfortunately. The haze almost totally obscured my hoped-for view of Shining Rock. I had even carried my heavy telephoto lens just for this opportunity. It was just not to be. So with a deep sigh and an air of disappointment, I turned to go back the way I had come. As I caught a glimpse of Sam Knob on the horizon, I remembered I still had another destination, and my spirit of anticipation returned. Perhaps by the time I get there, the air will clear some.

On the way back, I was treated to a field of turks cap lilies that had bloomed just since I passed less than an hour before. Black Balsam is usually reliable for a good stand of turks cap in July. Keep your eyes peeled about waist high and 20 yards off the trail for the bright orange blossoms that hang awkwardly upside down.

Once back to the trailhead, it is less than a half mile north on Black Balsam Road to the parking area at the dead end. The blue-blazed Sam Knob trailhead is on the west side of the parking lot. There were dozens of teen and pre-teen girls flittering about like butterflies, and then I noticed: Just as I had seen a llama-led backcountry excursion a couple weeks prior, so they were out again, getting set for perhaps the wildest adventure yet in some of the little girls’ lives. Good for them.

The Black Balsam trek had ended with pretty wildflowers. This one began with a dazzling display of fuschia fireweed lining both sides of the trail. Not only that, but I was actually beginning to see bluish sky off to the west. Perhaps things were picking up. But then I got the reminder of what I had seen here back in May with my brother — the erosion control project.

Chamerion angustifolium, commonly known as fireweed, is a perrenial that can grow as tall as eight feet. This herb is often abundant in wet open fields, pastures, and particularly burned-over lands. That certainly applies to this area.

Please allow me a brief rant. I know this section of the national forest that contains Black Balsam and Sam Knob is not actually within designated wilderness. But basically, it is completely surrounded by wilderness, and as such, to me, it should be treated the same. I also know that it is extremely popular, with the trail receiving perhaps excessive usage. In May 2015, in an effort to control erosion on this part of the Sam Knob Trail, the forest service contracted to have very large gravel poured on the trail, and a boardwalk built to elevate the trail above a section of trench.

These actions run completely contrary to the wilderness principles of Leave No Trace. The large gravel is very hard to walk on, particularly on the bottom of the feet. The boardwalk is a permanent eyesore that will remain on this pristine landscape for at least 50 years until it eventually becomes a rotting heap. Was there no alternative? Could the trench have been filled in with dirt and an alternate path around it constructed? When you see it for yourself, I’ll let you decide. Thanks for tolerating my distraction.

Back on track here, at the bottom of the boardwalk the trail passes through a flower laden meadow that was once a logging camp nearly a hundred years ago. I found mullein, buttercups, multiple species of daisies, even a few bluets still remaining this late in the season. Anyone peering down into the meadow from above probably got a chuckle at the hiker/photographer guy down below, rolling around in the grasses trying to take pictures between gusts of wind.

At the west end of the meadow, a trail marker designates a choice. You can turn left onto the Flat Laurel Creek Trail, or as I did, you can turn right up the Sam Knob Summit Trail. This one immediately enters a dark, tight forest of laurels and rhododendron that are making every effort to choke the trail. Nearly all the way up, this trail is narrow — a lot more narrow than I remembered from the last time I was here four years ago. I was kinda glad I had on long sleeves. It likely prevented a few scratches from the bushes.

There isn’t much to see on this trail, except the dense foliage. You will know you’re about half way up when you reach a small staircase. Above that, the trail winds around Sam Knob to the west side of its face. Here it begins to open up just a bit, with occasional views of the Highway 215 corridor climbing the valley to its appointment with the Blue Ridge Parkway. On the west side of the highway is the primitive expanse of Middle Prong Wilderness.

When you reach a large white quartz outcrop on the left side of the trail, you are nearly to the summit. One of the unique features of Sam Knob is its double summits. Take the trail to the north summit for outstanding views to the west and north of the gargantuan Richland Balsam ridge, and Middle Prong Wilderness. On really clear days, you can see all the way to the high peaks of the Great Smoky Mountains nearly 70 miles away.

The south summit of Sam Knob overlooks the east, south, and west with the best view of where I was earlier on top of Black Balsam Knob. You can see where Hwy 215 meets the Parkway, the tall points of Green Knob and Mt. Hardy, and a vast domain of spruce and fir forest. I found a beautiful, smooth granite slab to enjoy lunch and ponder the times I’ve looked at the opposite view from the other side of the valley. I think I even made out the rocks I sit on way over there.

If you look at the ridge on the far upper right of this picture, you can make out the rock outcrops on the ridge. You have a great view of Sam Knob from over there.

As I enjoyed my meal, I thought of how fortunate I am to live near this amazing wild place… of how fortunate I am to still have the ability to climb to mountaintops… and of how retirement is the best job I’ve ever had. I got a few photos with semi-blue sky, but then some ominous gray clouds began to roll in. On top of an exposed 6,000 foot mountain was not where I wanted to be in a thunderstorm, so I hastily packed up and began the descent.

Most of this day I’d had the trails all to myself. Not so on the way down from Sam Knob. It’s like everyone arrived at once. Was there a parade I didn’t know about? I encountered 16 hikers coming up while I was descending. Passing them was sometimes difficult on the narrow trail. I hoped for their sake that those gray clouds I had seen moments before didn’t open up when they reached the summit.

When I got back to the now completely full parking area, the llama party was just about to head out into the wilderness. I quickly got ready to leave so that a new arrival could have my parking space and the ability to relish this country as much as I do. I come to Black Balsam frequently, especially when the heat of summer smothers the valleys below. As long as I am able, I will keep coming. You should too.

This hike is only available when the Blue Ridge Parkway is open, so it is seasonal. You are likely to be able to get access to the trailheads April through November. Check the Parkway closures site before making plans.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Deep in the heart of Shining Rock Wilderness is the namesake, a mountain made of quartz, standing more than 6,000 feet. On bright sunny days you can see the white quartz “shining” from miles away. The Cherokee called it Datsu’nălâsgûñ’yĭ, “where their tracks are this way,” that refers to a white rock that is said to have tracks of Tsul ‘Kalu and his children. There are a half dozen trails through the wilderness that meet at Shining Rock, but the most direct is the Ivestor Gap Trail. If you’re new to Shining Rock Wilderness, this is a nice introduction. You can then decide if you wish to explore some of the more remote and difficult trails that criss-cross the wilderness. Access is from the Black Balsam spur road at milepost 420 on the Blue Ridge Parkway. We enjoyed the trek to Shining Rock on Thursday, June 25, 2015 beginning at 8:30AM and finishing at 12:50PM. Our plan was to take the Ivestor Gap Trail from Black Balsam Road directly to Shining Rock, and back.

After more than a week of 90+ temperature, it was time to head into the high country for some cool mountain air. Shining Rock Wilderness fit the request nicely. With a half dozen peaks over 6,000 feet, and most of the rest over 5,000, it is guaranteed to be 10-15° cooler than the surrounding valleys. The high country is the place to go for summer hiking in the Southern Appalachians.

You may ask, why would anyone want to hike nearly five miles out and five miles back to see a white mountain? Because it’s there. Because the white quartz is really cool. Because of the great exercise. Because of the peace and serenity that exists in the wilderness. Because of the wonderful things that are found along the way. Because of the amazing view of the expanse of Shining Rock Wilderness. Because it is far better than anything you can find on your couch. C’mon. Get out there!

The Ivestor Gap Trail begins at the dead end of Black Balsam Road, a turnoff at mile 420 of the Blue Ridge Parkway. As you approach the parking area, the trail is on your right. It is actually an old logging road, leftover from the early 20th century when this entire area was valued for its exceptional timber. You will notice right off the bat how rocky this road is. Don’t expect that to change, at least until you get to Ivestor Gap itself, roughly two miles out. It might be a good idea to wear high top hiking footwear to help with ankle support.

Because of the wonderful things that are found along the way

From May until September it seems there is always something blooming along Ivestor Gap Trail. Whether it be the tiny bluets or chickweed early in the season, the laurels and azaleas in early summer, or the tall goldenrod or thistle of autumn — you are bound to catch something colorful in the corner of your eye. On this particular day, we were treated to mountain laurel, morning glory, and flame azalea.

The morning glories are plentiful along Ivestor Gap. Be sure to arrive, umm – in the morning – to catch these beauties all through summer.

The Ivestor Gap Trail circles around the massive Black Balsam Knob as it heads toward Shining Rock Wilderness. Most of the views along the trail are to the west, including of Sam Knob and Fork Mountain, and the many drainages that plunge toward the Pigeon River. This is also blueberry country. You will notice thousands of low bushes, and the picker trails that criss-cross the hillsides. Hundreds of folks come up here in late August to fill themselves with the indigo lusciousness.

Approximately two miles along you reach the boundary of Shining Rock Wilderness. Bear (no pun intended) left here to stay on the Ivestor Gap Trail. Then, a short quarter mile later you reach Ivestor Gap. When we arrived we were greeted by about two dozen teenage girls who were on a camping trip with llamas. They all wanted to tell the story of the black bear who prowled around their camp the night before looking for goodies. They were really excited and gleeful, having a real wilderness experience to share forever.

There are many trail options at Ivestor Gap. You can take the Art Loeb Trail up and over 6,000′ Grassy Cove Top. If you don’t think you want to continue further into the wilderness, you can also take the Art Loeb back south across Tennent Mountain and Black Balsam, returning to the parking area. For the hike we’re talking about here, though, bear left again to stay on the Ivestor Gap Trail.

Because of the peace and serenity that exists in the wilderness

For the next couple miles you will be proceeding along the Shining Rock Ledge. The trail gets more comfortable here, free of the constant rocks that are hard on the feet. You will pass under dark rhododendron tunnels, then pop out into the bright sunshine with views across the valley of Middle Prong Wilderness and the giant Richland Balsam Mountain. Then back into the soothing canopy of mountain laurel and azalea, and the exquisite forest aroma of spruce and fir.

It is peaceful and quiet here. You can hear your foot steps… and your heart beat. There are no roads for miles. This is wilderness. The sounds are natural. The sweet song of a thrush perched on a rhododendron branch. The chip, chip, chipping of a red squirrel as he defies you to take his picture. The howls of coyotes echoing across the ridges from who knows how many miles away. Now is the time to use your senses. Listen. Smell. Look. Taste. Touch. It is all there for you.

Two miles beyond Ivestor Gap you will begin to notice white rocks scattered near the trail. This is quartz, and it means you are nearing Shining Rock. You will pass a trail coming up from your left. This is Little East, and it eventually goes all the way to the Daniel Boone Scout Camp. Continue straight, though, for another hundred yards or so to what I like to call the wagon wheel trail junction.

There are trails coming from seemingly every direction that meet here at the base of Shining Rock. There is Ivestor Gap Trail of course, but also the continuation of the Art Loeb through The Narrows and on to Cold Mountain. The Old Butt and Shining Creek Trails also meet here. It’s all like spokes on a wagon wheel.

Because the white quartz is really cool

The final spoke is the spur trail that goes to the summit of Shining Rock. How do you know which one it is? From the clearing in the center of the wagon wheel, look for a sign that denotes the Art Loeb Trail and says 4 miles to Cold Mountain. Use that to get your bearings. Now turn to your right and walk about 50 feet and look for a trail on your left. That is the one you want.

The summit is about a quarter mile distance and 230 feet of climbing through thick, dark and aged rhododendron canopy, past large quartz boulders, and over evergreen needles deposited by decades of seasons. We could hear voices for the first time since Ivestor Gap. There were others up top. There are multiple crests on the summit. We stopped on one of them to enjoy our lunch and leave the one at the point to the other fellows. The photo at the top of this post is Ken settling in on the quartz for his picnic.

Because of the amazing view of the expanse of Shining Rock Wilderness. This is the view south. You can also see The Narrows ledge off to the west, and in winter you can see Cold Moutain and Mt. Pisgah.

Once we finished lunch, the other guys had moved on, so I was able to go out to the point for the amazing views of Shining Rock Wilderness. I am always in awe of this setting. You are sitting at 6,040 feet, on shiny, bright white quartz. You can see nearly a dozen more mountains surrounding you that stand above 6,000 as well. On this day, the spruce krummholz that shares the summit with the white stone was an amazing bright green and smelled heavenly. The foliage here is very, very healthy.

A word of warning though. Because thousands of folks have crawled on Shining Rock over the centuries, the quartz has been worn quite smooth. Combined with the steep angles and awkward slopes, it can be an extreme slipping hazard. You won’t fall hundreds of feet, but if you do fall, you are likely to bang something that will leave a mark. So be careful. You don’t want your companion to have to haul you all the way out of the wilderness.

When you get back to the wagon wheel junction there are so many options available to you for the return. If you had planned a shuttle hike and left multiple cars at multiple trailheads, you can try any of the trails I mentioned above. However, our plan was to simply return the same way we came.

To summarize, this hike is a great introduction to many of the features that Shining Rock Wilderness has to offer. Although somewhat long, it is really quite easy, being almost totally flat, until the last quarter mile to the summit of Shining Rock. It’s great hiking exercise. Ken and I were able to complete the nearly 10 miles in just over four hours at a leisurely pace. It can be kinda hard on the feet because of all the rock on the old logging road, but just wear the appropriate shoes and you will be fine.

This hike is only available when the Blue Ridge Parkway is open, so it is seasonal. You are likely to be able to get access to the trailhead April through November. Check the Parkway closures site before making plans.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Backcountry wilderness. If you really want to get a taste, then this hike is for you. Starting at the remote Camp Daniel Boone, the northern terminus of the Art Loeb Trail enters Shining Rock Wilderness immediately. As you begin the nearly 2,000′ ascent to Deep Gap, on the southern shoulder of Cold Mountain, you will cross numerous streams as you hike through hardwood forest. Expect extremely rugged terrain with exceptional long-distance views and evergreen and heath vegetation as you cross from Deep Gap to Shining Rock Gap on a razor-edged stretch of trail appropriately called The Narrows. The loop returns as you descend Little East Fork Trail and follow this prong of the beautiful Little Pigeon River back to the scout camp. Whew! This hike occurred on Thursday, April 17, 2014 beginning at 9:10AM and ending about 5:35PM. Our plan was to take the Art Loeb Trail to its junction with Little East Fork Trail, then return on Little East Fork to the scout camp to complete the loop.

I should make note here before starting on the trail report that the map above is not complete. About the time we reached the junction of the Art Loeb Trail with the Little East Fork Trail, the battery on my smartphone died, so the recording of the GPS track was terminated. It’s a shame too, because I had a battery charger with me. I was simply enjoying the companionship and beauty of the wilderness so much that I didn’t even think about the battery.

So, to complete the map above, I have hand-drawn the approximate track of descent along the Little East Fork Trail. The map statistics combining the actual track up, and the virtual track down, total a little more than 13 miles. It was our estimate, however, that this hike is actually closer to 15 miles.

It takes awhile to get to the Daniel Boone Scout Camp. It is truly out in the rural country, but isn’t that what you’d expect for wilderness hiking? The Art Loeb Trail is near the back of the camp, and is well marked with a large sign.

The morning was great for a long hike, brisk, with just a touch of overcast. When I was here once before, on the first mile or so of the hike, I could tell it is an area near a wealth of seasonal campers. The trail then was very well maintained with lots of rock and log stairs to aid with climbing. The camp counselors no doubt enjoy having the free camper labor to take care of trail maintenance.

This time of year, though, before the boy scouts show up in droves, all the debris strewn about by the heavy winds of winter left the trail littered with twigs and sticks, and several downed trees. It’s a steep climb right off the bat, then the trail takes a series of switchbacks, jumping nearly 1,200 feet in the first 1.5 miles.

Our crew of three two-legged and one four-legged pedestrians moved at a casual pace through a thick hardwood forest on the way to Deep Gap, and in mid-April with the leaves still off the trees, we could see some of the surrounding mountains, as well as what lie ahead of us on the trail. As we rounded each succeeding ridge, Deep Gap still looked a long way up there.

We crossed Sorrell Creek twice, the first time after about a mile and a half, the 2nd another mile later. It had been a very wet winter in the Blue Ridge so there was plenty of fungus, lichens, molds and mosses growing on everything that had a surface. What totally surprised us was the acres and acres of ramps we came upon. Now don’t you go digging them up just because I told you they are there. This is designated wilderness. The forest rangers will spank you.

Though I’ve yet to hike this stretch of the Art Loeb during the green season, I’m told that there is a great deal of poison oak in this area. So take your own precautions as appropriate.

The Art Loeb Trail climbs a total of about 1,800 feet to Deep Gap in roughly four miles with the first part and the last part being the steepest. In between is a gradual grade. There are a couple stretches where the trail meanders along as it follows an old logging road. There is a spring near Deep Gap, so when you come upon it, know that you are close… about 2/10 of a mile. That last bit, though, will severely test your legs and lungs.

Deep Gap is a perfect place to take a breather. There are logs there, and a fire pit, and an open area to stretch your legs. We all took off our packs and shared some nourishment while resting for the next climb into The Narrows. Deep Gap is also the way to the summit of Cold Mountain. There is a spur trail there that takes you northward the final mile and a half to the top of that famous 6,000 footer.

We took about 20 minutes at Deep Gap, to eat and drink, and to get ourselves rested for more serious climbing. There is no directional sign, but the Art Loeb turns to the right here, now heading due south and up. It’s another thousand feet of hard climbing between Deep Gap and the highest point in The Narrows, 5,869′ Stairs Mountain. We were in complete sunshine now on a glorious day for hiking the backcountry.

As you pass through The Narrows, keep in mind that you are a long way from anywhere. There is no quick way to get to where you are. So be very careful as you traverse this extremely rugged and remote terrain. Obviously you don’t want to get injured, but think of the search and rescue folks who have to get to you from miles away in any direction. Just my public service — please be careful when hiking in The Narrows.

Perhaps a half mile, or less, above Deep Gap, The Narrows begin. The terrain suddenly has many large granite outcroppings. It becomes apparent that you are on a precarious ridge. It isn’t cliffs, but if you fell, you would roll for quite some time. The laurel and rhododendron are thick and choking. The steps up will strain your groin and hip muscles. Sometimes you have to scramble on all fours.

When you begin to see the scattered spruce and balsam, you are nearing the first overlook, and oh my, what an overlook it is. We were graced with a crystal clear day that enabled us to see all the way to Great Smoky Mountains National Park, more than 50 miles away. We could see Mt. Sterling and Mt. Leconte in the Smokies off to the west just as clear as if we were there. To the south is the massive hulk of Richland Balsam, the highest point on the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Climbing to the northeast side of the overlook we were presented with the south summit of Cold Mountain, and far in the distance, the tower-topped point of Mt. Pisgah. The combination of the two is the photo you see at the top of this post. Cold Mountain on the left, Pisgah on the right. Click it for a larger image.

After this magnificent view, the trail begins roller-coastering along the razor-thin ridge line. You will drop down 100 feet, then climb up 200, then drop down, and then back up. Lather. Rinse. Repeat. It is quite tiring. We had to stop for a number of breaks to catch our breath and rest our legs. The terrain is quite demanding.

After about a mile you finally get off the narrow ridge and back to more of a forested trail. Don’t think, though, that the worst is over, because now you have to climb up Stairs Mountain. I’m not afraid to tell you that by the time we reached the summit I was huffing and puffing. It’s tough. It truly tests your stamina. Fortunately for me, on this day I passed the test.

Once you cross over Stairs Mountain the worst of the exertion is over. It’s a rolling stroll for the next couple miles to Shining Rock Gap through a thick spruce and rhododendron canopy. You’ll know you’re getting near the namesake Shining Rock as you begin to see boulders of white quartz poking up out of the ground here and there.

The gap is a major trail junction. You can go up on Shining Rock from here. The Old Butt and Shining Creek trails meet here. The Ivestor Gap and Art Loeb trails also meet here. We continued southward on the Art Loeb for just a couple hundred more yards until the junction with the Little East Fork Trail.

The upper half of Little East Fork Trail is a gentle descent through the remains of a long ago fire. The forest changes from spruce and balsam to deciduous trees as it drops further into the drainage. Much of the trail is lined with young beech saplings, the last to lose their leaves. The golden glow of the still-clinging beech leaves brightens the path and prods tired legs ever onward.

After a couple miles you’ll begin to hear the faint rush of the river below. As you continue downward it gets closer and louder. The trail steepens and the terrain becomes more of a ravine as you approach the river. You’ll know you’re close when you start seeing backcountry campsites near the trail.

When you reach the river you have to cross. On this day, the water wasn’t particularly high, but high enough to cover my boot tops if I had just waded across. Scoping out crossing points, there looked to be two promising spots. One, that was in shallower water but with rocks that were further apart, and another with rocks that looked promising for hopping, but in deeper water. I chose the latter. Ken went first across the shallow crossing and made it without a hitch.

My first step from the bank to a big rock was a long one, longer that I had sized up. So there I was, straddling the current with one foot on the bank and the other on a slippery rock. As I swung my back leg over to join my front, I lost my balance, and you can guess the result. Sploosh! My whole left side, from shoulder to toes, was immersed in the cold mountain stream and my own adrenaline. It certainly was refreshing.

Y’know, the Meanderthals motto is, “If you’re gonna be dumb, you better be tough.” Well, I toughed it out. Ken helped pull me out of the drink and I finished crossing to the other side. There didn’t appear to be any pain, just wetness, and a sheepish grin. Creeks are my nemesis. Dave made it across safely behind me with Grace, and then they all waited while I changed my socks and poured part of the river out of my boots.

Back on the trail in another 10 minutes, we were now hiking directly beside the Little East Fork of the Pigeon River, but about 50-60 feet above. There are an amazing number of waterfalls and cascades over the two and a half mile length back to the scout camp from the crossing. It is a stunning river. Too bad the trail is so high above the whitewater. Some day I will go back with a tripod and clamber down to river level just for photos of this magnificent stream.

With wet clothes and bruised ego, the last couple miles were kind of a slog for me. Thankfully I had the natural beauty of the river to take my mind off my inconvenient situation. The last quarter mile is on Little East Fork Road within the bounds of the scout camp. We passed hundreds of tent platforms along the way. This place must really be rockin’ in summer when the camp is in full swing.

In summary, this is a long, hard hike that offers rewards around every corner. If you like forest hikes, it’s got that — hardwoods below Deep Gap and along Little East Fork and evergreens above 5,000 feet. If you like vista hikes, it has that too. The views on a clear day are remarkable. Expect to be able to see at least a 50 mile radius. And if you like water feature hikes, then the last few miles along Little East Fork are filled with waterfalls and tumbling cascades. There’s really something for everyone on this special wilderness loop. If you have the stamina to go for eight hours, then I definitely recommend this hike.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Cedar Rock is one of several granite pluton monoliths found in the Davidson River area of Pisgah National Forest. More difficult to get to than its nearby brethren, Looking Glass and John Rock, Cedar Rock has outstanding long distance views from both the east and west sides of its summit. You will have to work to get there, climbing nearly 1,700 feet from the valley floor at the Pisgah Center for Wildlife Education, but the end result is well worth the effort. You’ll see two states and four counties, 6000′ mountain peaks, stunning granite cliffs and the Blue Ridge Parkway. This hike occurred on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 from 10:15am to 4:00pm. Our plan was to take the western branch of Cat Gap Trail up Cedar Rock Creek to Cat Gap where we would get on the Art Loeb Trail to Cedar Rock. There is a somewhat secretive trail up Cedar Rock from the north, then back down the south side. We would return on the Art Loeb to Cat Gap, then back down the eastern side of the Cat Gap Loop through Horse Cove.

Roughly the first mile of this hike is the same as the one I did just last week, Cat Gap Trail to Cedar Rock Falls and Long Branch. Rather than repeat, I will pick up where to two trails diverge. One of my regular partners was back with me this time. When we reached the Cat Gap Trail and Butter Gap Trail junction, this time we took a left turn across Cedar Rock Creek and stayed on orange blazed Cat Gap, instead of going right on Butter Gap like last week.

After crossing, we followed Cedar Rock Creek through the forest to a small opening with a view of our eventual destination, Cedar Rock. From here, it looked far, far away, and plenty high. We had our work cut out for us. The trail enters a small, beautiful white pine forest. The forest floor is a bed of fallen red needles that have cushioned the earth for season after season. It’s a delight to enter these stands of evergreen woods. They are found throughout Pisgah National Forest, ranging from spruce to fir to black balsam and pine. The aromas are glorious.

The trail crosses the creek one more time, this time without the aid of a bridge, and then begins its steady climb up the northern shoulder of Cedar Rock to Cat Gap in earnest. There are a number of switchbacks to ease the strain, but it will get your attention. The trail will change direction to decidedly eastward for about a quarter mile, then turn back to the south again. This area is a floral delight in spring as it is lined with rhododendron, dog hobble and mountain laurel, galax and ground cedar.

Approximately a mile after the last creek crossing you will come to a junction with the Cat Gap Connector Trail. Here, you can take either trail to get where you want to go. I prefer staying on the Cat Gap Loop Trail because I think the climb is just a bit more moderate. So we took a right turn to stay on the loop trail.

You will continue upward in a southerly direction through a forest of locust and birch, oak and poplar. It is so different during the various seasons. In the cold weather months, there are views through the leafless forest of the surrounding mountains. During the green seasons, the forest provides a canopy to shield you from the sun and wind. It is cool, full of aviary activity, and replete with the scents and perfumes of the woods.

The trail takes another easterly turn and levels off as it makes the final push to Cat Gap. The gap itself is really not much more than a joining of trails. The Cat Gap Loop comes in from the east and the west. A trail that doesn’t appear on national forest maps but heads to Burl Mountain comes to Cat Gap, and the Art Loeb Trail crosses here. Art Loeb is our next path to Cedar Rock.

Get yourself ready for some strenuous climbing while you’re resting at Cat Gap. First, the Art Loeb climbs several hundred feet, then the Cedar Rock summit trail adds another several hundred to that. The good news? The scenery is spectacular, so don’t cheat yourself by letting the required exertion deter you. Just take your time, pause for short breathers, and set your own pace.

The Art Loeb Trail has white blaze markings as it climbs for ½ to ¾ mile to Sandy Gap, all the while offering a terrific view of Looking Glass Rock off to the north, and the many 5000-6000 foot peaks beyond. For the first time, we noticed those peaks were snow covered. There has been almost no snow in Western North Carolina this winter, so the white tops of Black Balsam Knob, Grassy Cove Top and Mt. Hardy were a delightful surprise. Made me yearn for the high country.

You will reach a plateau at Sandy Gap that has the best views from the trail. However, during green seasons, don’t expect to be able to see through the leafless trees. Among the many advantages of cold weather hiking are the added vista opportunities. Soon after topping this plateau, the Art Loeb Trail heads down the other side.

The summit trail to Cedar Rock has somewhat of a legend in hiking communities of being secret and not publicized. Apparently, it was a formerly maintained trail that was retired by the Forest Service because of the danger of falling from the cliffs on the pluton summit. There have been a number of deaths, or at least so I am told. Therefore, I don’t intend to break any unwritten codes by detailing exactly where the trailhead is. Having said that, though, there is information on the Internet about the trail. Just do a little search homework.

This summit trail isn’t especially long, but it is steep. It took us perhaps 15 minutes to climb to the top, with plenty of 30 second rests to suck air. Once you reach the top, though, you will know it. The summit is a long, relatively rounded cone shape with paths to the rock edges of both the east and west faces of this monolith. There is a large campsite and fire pit in the center at the capstone.

Our timing was great. That empty feeling in the pit of my stomach said that lunch was on the agenda, along with a well-deserved rest on the east face of Cedar Rock. Look for the spur paths to the granite surfaces but be very, very careful. I mentioned there hasn’t been much snow in WNC this winter, but what there has been is freezing cold even this late into March, including earlier on this morning. Even past noon, the granite still had large sheaths of ice that made for treacherous footing and an increased risk of falling. If you come up here in winter, watch very carefully for ice. It is sometimes difficult to see.

We found a great spot to sit with a view directly east and south. From here we could see the landmarks of DuPont State Forest directly in front of us. Brevard is just on the backside of Burl Mountain. Far beyond DuPont is Upstate South Carolina and the state parks that hang on the Blue Ridge Escarpment. Somewhere unseen, a few hundred feet below us, the Art Loeb Trail curls along the base of this massive granite wall.

Renourished, it was now time to explore the west face of Cedar Rock. The rock climbers love the west side. Returning to the center cone, we looked for a path to the other edge. The west side is covered with rhododendron thickets, so be prepared to sweep the low hanging branches out of your way as you follow a maze of paths toward the precipice. Look for orange ribbons hanging on the branches. Those have been placed by the climbing clubs to help lead you to strategic entry onto the west face.

I will repeat, be very, very careful. This west face is steeper and smaller. You can see pitons hammered into the rock by long-ago climbers. There was even more ice on this side, with fewer places to stand safely. In summer it might be different, but keep the ice in mind if you’re up here during cold weather months. Frankly, I didn’t feel very comfortable at all, so I snapped a few photos and got off the edge quickly before I made a mis-step.

Returning to the campsite at the central cone area, it was time to head off the south side of Cedar Rock. We noticed as we began our descent a number of blue ribbons tied to low-level branches. Perhaps a local hiking club has convinced the Forest Service to recommission this trail. Though not wide at all, it is in fairly good shape and easy to follow. We discovered a bit later why there may still be some reluctance to attract a lot of traffic to this trail.

Continuing steeply down the south side, every hundred yards or so we would come to another exposed granite ledge that had to be traversed. Remember the ice issue? Fortunately, these ledges receive south-side sun, so by mid-afternoon most of the ice was now trickling water. But if you’re up here on a cold, cold early morning expect these ledges on the southeastern descent to be extremely dangerous.

One of these ledges was especially scenic, and… what? What is that? Is that… is that a CEDAR TREE!!! YES!!! OMG!!! The smell is absolutely heavenly. Cedar Rock? Cedar tree? Made me wonder if there were hundreds on this pluton when man first came here, but I digress. I couldn’t get enough of the wonderful scent.

The granite ledge here curls around the southern tip and has a great view across Butter Gap to Stone Mountain, another with a large granite wall. Far in the distance behind Stone Mountain is Brushy Ridge, then further west to Nantahala National Forest.

The south side of Cedar Rock descends further than the north side climbs, so when you eventually get back to the Art Loeb Trail, you have to climb back up quite a way to return to Sandy Gap. You can continue southward to Butter Gap, but for this hike, we wanted to finish the other side of Cat Gap Loop. It is a fabulous journey north, as the Art Loeb parallels the gigantic eastern face of Cedar Rock. I am always struck by the number of narrow channels grooved into the rock by millenia upon millenia of water running down the side.

You’re about half way up the climb when you come upon a series of extremely large, extremely dead hemlocks. One in particular has a trunk with a diameter of at least four feet. At the top of the climb is a campsite on the left at the base of the granite. The pitch of the rock here is at a small enough angle that you can climb up the face on all fours a hundred feet or so, without the assist of ropes or other climbing gear. Last time I was here, I found a perch up there for lunch.

You’ll continue northward along a dry creek bed until you eventually reach the connection with the northern summit trail. From there it’s simply a matter of returning over Sandy Gap to Cat Gap.

Since we came up the west side of Cat Gap Loop, it certainly made sense to go back down the east side of the loop from Cat Gap. Look to your right for the descending northerly trail. Don’t accidently get on the unnamed trail that heads south toward Burl Mountain. You go down, down, down about a quarter mile to another major trail junction. This is where the Cat Gap Connector comes in from the west to meet the Cat Gap Loop, and also the John Rock Trail comes in from the north. We took Cat Gap Loop east.

This is an absolutely beautiful forest with many poplars standing close to a hundred feet tall. This stretch of the trail is really stunning during the green season when the forest canopy allows limited light to reach the forest floor. You will cross a number of small streams tumbling down from the mountains above, some with log bridges, others with rock hops.

About half way down, you’ll pass the other end of the trail to John Rock. My companion and I gave each other an inquisitive quick glance when we passed by. The answer on both our faces said, not today.

Next is the crossing of Forest Road 5017, otherwise known as Horse Cove Road. You have a choice here. You can continue to follow Cat Gap Trail all the way back to the east end of the Wildlife Center parking, or you can take the forest road that comes out on the west end of the parking lot. The trail is obviously more scenic, following Horse Cove Creek to Davidson River, but the road is just a little bit quicker. With nearly ten miles and more than five hours on our feet, we opted for quick.

In conclusion, this is a terrific hike with outstanding views from the summit of Cedar Rock. It is hard. You will work for the opportunity to see what the ledges on Cedar Rock offer. You truly get a feel for the lay of the land in Pisgah National Forest when standing on Cedar Rock, but the trails aren’t limited to long-distance vistas. The combination of evergreen, hardwood and laurel forests as well as the many creeks and streams that rush off the mountains above make this a full-featured hike. I highly recommend it.

Update May 1, 2014: We revisited this scenic hike to Cedar Rock and even combined it with the Butter Gap and Picklesimer Fields hike to make for a nice large loop. The weather cooperated beautifully for a delightful springtime stroll among the plutons in the Davidson River area. See below for another GPS track as well as some new pictures.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

The Black Balsam area of Pisgah National Forest is surrounded by Middle Prong Wilderness on the west, and Shining Rock Wilderness on the east. Some of the best hiking found in Western North Carolina lies in this high country just north of the Blue Ridge Parkway. At the end of Black Balsam Road at milepost 420 on the Parkway, the Ivestor Gap Trail will take you deep into this rugged, untamed backcountry. There are lots of spur trails used by the seasonal blueberry pickers that wind through the hollows and across the ridges. There is also the Fork Mountain Trail, a 6-mile track that will take you all the way to Sunburst Campground. About half way to Sunburst is Birdstand Mountain. When you see it, you’ll understand the name. Join Meanderthals as we explore the blueberry and rhododendron bush country between two wildernesses. This hike occurred on Tuesday, December 18, 2012 from 10:00am to 3:00pm. Our plan was to take the Ivestor Gap Trail to Fork Mountain Trail and on to Birdstand Mountain. For a return we would continue on to Ivestor Gap, then up and over two sixers, Tennent Mountain and Black Balsam Bald on the Art Loeb Trail.

It was a beautiful day in the high country: bright sunshine, nearly cloudless sky, a crisp 35°, and… WIND.

Black Balsam Road is a great jumping off point for a series of terrific trails that wander around and over the half dozen sixers that dot the landscape. Half way up the road the Art Loeb Trail crosses. To the west you can hike to Chestnut Bald. Take Art Loeb to the east and climb to the summit of Black Balsam Knob, then Tennent Mountain, and if you care to continue, far beyond to Grassy Cove Top.

At the deadend of Black Balsam Road is a parking area for trails that go west to Sam Knob and Little Sam, and further around Flat Laurel Creek. To the north Ivestor Gap Trail takes you to the gap, then to Grassy Cove, and if you’re really bold you will enter Shining Rock Wilderness and head to The Narrows.

On this day though, my friend and I were going to explore some of the trails that take off Ivestor Gap Trail and head into the backcountry to the northwest. This small triangle of Pisgah National Forest splits Middle Prong Wilderness to the west and Shining Rock Wilderness to the east. We eventually hoped to find Birdstand Mountain.

It was cold, so much so we pulled out the extra layers and headgear before we even left the parking area. Combine the mid-thirties temperature and wind gusts, the trail being in the shadows of Black Balsam Knob, and the hard rain from the day before, and we had to dodge the thin coating of ice on the myriad of puddles. Sunshine would be our friend. After 20 minutes we were able to round the big bend in the trail and finally get the warming sun at our backs.

Neither of us had ever taken any of the trails to the northwest (left) off Ivestor Gap, so we kept our eyes peeled for anything resembling a trailhead. Even though we weren’t in designated wilderness yet, we didn’t expect much in the way of trail markers anyway. The Forest Service planners do a good job here of leaving well enough alone. They don’t muck up the area with signs and blaze paint, but as a result, people do get lost.

We saw our first apparent trailhead about a mile into the hike, soon after we rounded that bend. There was a stand of old fir trees, some still alive, some simply a solid white hulk of their former selves. It became obvious soon that this was not maintained trail — the blueberry and rhododendron bushes dominated the hillside. Sam Knob was to our left, and the massive 6410′ Richland Balsam was far away to the northwest.

There was a path to follow at foot level, but at core and shoulder height we were pushing away brush with our arms. Different, and kinda neat in a way, we both commented that this semi-trail would be really rough in summer when all these bushes were full to the brim with their leaves, flowers, and fruit.

This trail wasn’t on our map, so we decided to name it the Blueberry Trail. We presumed the trails back in here were worn by blueberry pickers who come in August to enjoy the ripe fruit. We kept our map out to maintain our bearings, eventually deciding that we were on a small ridge above Sam Branch, a creek that drains to Pigeon River at the foot of Sam Knob. This wasn’t the Fork Mountain Trail we were looking for, but we decided to continue anyway just to see what we could find.

What we found was the point of the ridge we were on. I had never seen a clearer view of Richland Balsam. It is a massive mountain, with very broad shoulders and sweeping ridges that drop into the wilderness below. But I could also see beyond it further into the Great Balsam Range and beyond toward Tennessee. They say on a really clear day you can sometimes see Clingman’s Dome in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. I’m not sure how I would know if that’s what I was looking at, but we sure could see mountains I had never been able to see before when in this part of Pisgah National Forest. It’s all about angles and point of reference.

Turning more to the northeast, to our right, there was another larger, parallel ridge with a clearing in a gap. Still not quite sure if that was the Fork Mountain Ridge we were looking for, we were nonetheless curious, so we decided to head back and check it out.

We got back on the Ivestor Gap Trail and continued our search for trailheads to the left. Perhaps a little less than a half mile beyond our previous foray, we came upon another left turn. Actually almost an about face, it headed northwest into a small black balsam spruce grove. By now it was approaching lunch time, so we found a nice sunny spot out of the wind, and plopped down on the grass for a respite. That wasn’t all we plopped down on. As I pulled out my thermos of hot soup, I noticed the piles and piles of deer scat. Oh well, we are Meanderthals after all.

After a rest and some nourishment we continued on into the spruce forest. Just as we passed through, we reached what I would call the thickest, gnarliest rhododendron thicket I’d ever seen. It was at least ten feet tall, with twisted trunks and branches going every which way like a drunken lattice. I can’t imagine what the trail builders must have gone through decades ago. After 100 feet or so we cleared this thicket and entered a different variety of rhodo scrub.

Even though this trail seemed a bit better maintained, we eventually got back to the same exercise of pushing the blueberry and rhododendron bushes out of our way. These were taller, above our heads. We couldn’t really see anything in any direction except up, but we pressed on. We came to a small clearing and were able to collect our bearings. And then straight ahead, there it was.

It was a small knob of a mountain covered with rhododendron and other scrub. And you know what? It looked just like a bird stand. You know those duck blinds that hunters build to hide in when they are out waiting for water fowl? That is exactly what this small wart on the ridge reminded me of. Whoever came up with the name Birdstand Mountain was spot on. It looked to be only a half mile away, so we pressed on, knowing for sure this time that we were now on the Fork Mountain Trail.

Bushwhacking all the way, we reached the Birdstand in about 20 minutes. Unfortunately, there really wasn’t much to see because it was still covered with brush that was just too tall for us to peer over. We could make out Grassy Cove Top to the east, and the very tip-top of Cold Mountain to the north. Otherwise, we were surrounded by green, gnarly bushes.

The trail started heading down, down, down past the Birdstand, and we followed it for another 15 minutes. But, we had set a time limit for ourselves of 12:30, so we didn’t quite reach the gap with the clearing that we had seen from the point on Blueberry Trail. That’s a hike for another day, in less winter-like conditions, although I wonder if this trail is even passable when the leaves are out.

We got back to Ivestor Gap Trail about 1:15 and had a decision. We could call it a day, and head back to the car, or we could continue on to Ivestor Gap, then up and over Tennent Mountain and Black Balsam Knob on the Art Loeb Trail. It did seem to be warming somewhat, so we opted to go for it and tackle the big loop.

I always enjoy seeing familiar landmarks during different seasons. I have been to Ivestor Gap and the sixers in early and late spring, mid-summer, and several times during the fall. Just three days short of winter solstice, this would be the latest for me, so I was curious to see the wheat-like coloring of the tall grasses and shrub that cover the balds.

When we got to Ivestor Gap, jumped on the Art Loeb and headed south, suddenly we were on the windward side of the mountains. The higher we climbed, the fiercer the wind. I feel confident some of the gusts were in the 40-mph range. It was tough going. Surprisingly I wasn’t particularly cold. The layers were doing a great job of keeping my core warm, and the thick silk/merino combo balaclava I had on my head was working perfectly.

Every other time I’ve crossed Tennent Mountain, I’ve come from the west, from the Black Balsam side. So it was interesting climbing up the eastern flank. The views of Mt. Pisgah are fabulous, and of Grassy Cove Top. Then the Graveyard Fields area to the south comes into view, and Looking Glass Rock on the other side of the Blue Ridge Parkway. Despite the biting conditions, I like being in the high country in winter because the sky is so much clearer. You can see miles and miles further because there is no summer haze.

I’d love to be up here some time after a snow fall. The problem is the Blue Ridge Parkway closes when there’s snow, so it would be truly difficult to get there. Perhaps I should take up cross country skiing.

Once you’re standing on the summit of 6020′ Tennent Mountain be sure to look directly to your north. Far in the distance you can see the very large quartz deposit that gives Shining Rock Wilderness its name. Beyond Shining Rock is Cold Mountain, another of the sixers that make WNC so enjoyable. Looking down, to the northwest, I could see Birdstand Mountain. In all the times I’ve been on Tennent Mountain, I’ve never noticed it before. Now that I’ve been there, it’s another landmark that helps me understand the terrain.

We didn’t stay on top very long. The wind encouraged our descent. Continuing westward the Art Loeb drops down off Tennent into a saddle, then begins climbing again up Black Balsam Knob. Much of the trail is in a trench surrounded by rhododendron scrub, so it’s difficult to see much until you get up a couple hundred feet. Once you do though, the entire Blue Ridge opens up in every direction. It is marvelous.

I’ve already written an entire trip report about crossing Black Balsam Knob and Tennent Mountain, so I won’t repeat all the details. I will reiterate, though, that no matter the season this is a remarkable hike, one of my favorites. I have probably been on the Art Loeb Trail across Black Balsam Knob more than any other trail in Western North Carolina.

It was exciting to learn about Fork Mountain Trail and Birdstand Mountain. Perhaps some day I will try that hike from the Sunburst Campground end. I even enjoyed the bushwhacking we did on Blueberry Trail. The view of the Great Balsam Range is the best I’ve yet seen. Ivestor Gap Trail has so many options for short, medium and long day hikes. Go to Birdstand and return, or make a loop of it like we did. Go all the way to Shining Rock, or even to Cold Mountain if you want to overnight camp. You can’t go wrong in this land between the wildernesses.

Update April 2, 2014: Meanderthals took another trek to the Birdstand to see what it’s like in early spring. Because of the elevation, it’s still too early for wildflowers, but the heath was beginning to green some. The trail itself is barely passable as the thick blueberry bushes are really overtaking the terrain. It’s a good idea to wear long pants and long sleeves, and gaiters if you have them. Once this area begins greening in a couple weeks it will be pretty much impassable until probably Thanksgiving.

Across the Blue Ridge Parkway from Black Balsam Road is an unmarked trail that leads to some excellent overlooks of Pilot Mountain and the Daniel Ridge drainage. This trail isn’t on any of the national forest maps, but it is well-maintained and perhaps used to be a section of the Mountains to Sea Trail. We explored for probably a half mile, then returned.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.