Located just north of McClellanville, SC, the 1,450-acre White Oak Atlantic Creosote tract contains an extensive network of dirt roads through some of the most beautiful native longleaf pine woods in the Lowcountry. The property was purchased from White Oak Forestry Corporation — a local corporation that stewards and conserves thousands of acres of significant forest in and around the Santee Delta.

Bordered on three sides by the quarter-million-acre national forest, the property sits across Highway 17 from the 22,000-acre Santee Coastal Reserve and beyond that, the 60,000-acre Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge. White Oak is the largest acquisition by the Charleston County Greenbelt Program.

The 1,450 acres also represent the biggest private holding left in the Francis Marion and the seventh addition to the national forest by Open Space Institute — which has conserved more than 8,100 acres in and around the forest since completing its first project there in 2014.

The roadways and paths in the tract will make the forest more accessible for hiking, birding and hunting, as well as providing natural habitat for a wide variety of local species.

It’s land that was once part of Peachtree Plantation on the Santee River — owned by Declaration signer Thomas Lynch III and celebrated by poet laureate Archibald Rutledge — that will now belong to the public.

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Andrew Wunderley crouches in the sand to pick up a milky white sphere. He pinches the lentil-size orb between his thumb and forefinger. It nearly pops out of his grip. The little pellet is made of brand-new plastic and has all the wondrous qualities of the material—light, smooth, and virtually forever-lasting. Many more are scattered in the high-tide line of the wide, windswept beach, the pride of Sullivan’s Island, South Carolina, a barrier island at the mouth of Charleston Harbor. He drops the pellet into a glass jar and picks up another, then another.

Before plastic is formed into forks or garbage bags or iPhone cases, it is born into the world as these orbs. The plastics industry calls them pre-production pellets, or sometimes just resins. Everyone else calls them “nurdles.”

For the past few years Charleston has been transforming into a major plastics export hub. The city is a middle step in the material’s supply chain: Companies receive train cars of nurdles from states like Texas that they then load onto container ships and send overseas.

The challenge is hardly confined to South Carolina; nurdles are turning up in waterways and on beaches all over the world. What’s more, the tiny pellets are just one symptom of a growing trend: larger volumes of cheap plastic being manufactured faster than ever.

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The Palmetto Conservation Foundation has partnered with the Kids in Parks program to install a new TRACK Trail along the Palmetto Trail in Peak, SC. Children and families are invited to hike the new TRACK Trail, which was opened in conjunction with National Trails Day.

The trail in Peak is located on a section of the Palmetto Trail called the Peak to Prosperity Passage. Like the passage name, this new kids trail is going to help lead kids and families to new levels of prosperity through outdoor recreation, improved physical activity, and connection to place.

“We are excited to have partnered with Kids in Parks and to offer the TRACK Trail program at our very popular Alston Trailhead. Featured at the new Alston Trailhead kiosk are the hands-on brochures which will guide trail users to understand the Peak to Prosperity Passage history along with the many wild creatures and native fauna specific to this area,” said Mary Roe, Palmetto Trail Executive Director.

The Kids in Parks program has created a nationwide network of TRACK Trails, which introduce young people to the wonders of nature. “With each of these trails, we hope to engage children in the joys of outdoor exploration for their well-being and the future stewardship of these amazing public spaces,” said Jason Urroz, Program Director for Kids in Parks, a program of the Blue Ridge Parkway Foundation.

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Jones Gap State Park sits on the Blue Ridge Escarpment in upstate South Carolina very near the state line with its neighbor to the north. Along with Caesars Head State Park, these two share an area known as Mountain Bridge Wilderness. The Jones Gap Trail follows the Middle Saluda River from the park visitor center along an old roadway built by Solomon Jones in the 1850s. In this cove backcountry the river is quite wild with many waterfalls and rapids that add exciting sights and sounds to a pristine mountain woodland. A couple miles up from the eastern end of Jones Gap Trail is Jones Gap Falls, the destination for this hike. My brother Dave and I visited Jones Gap on February 17, 2020 beginning at 10:15am and finishing at 1:15pm. The plan was to take Jones Gap Trail up the Middle Saluda River to Jones Gap Falls and beyond, then return.

South Carolina State Parks have a voluntary $6 hiking fee, so be sure to register either at the Visitor Center or at the sign box in the parking area. It really helps with trail maintenance, something that has become an issue at Jones Gap because of incessant rain for years now.

It’s about a quarter mile stroll from the parking area at Jones Gap State Park — along the Middle Saluda River, past the Learning Center — to the eastern Jones Gap trailhead. This trail is also known as the Middle Saluda Passage of the Palmetto Trail (learn more about the Palmetto Trail here and here).

This area of Jones Gap is also an Audobon bird sanctuary and you may be fortunate enough to see a few Great Blue Herons. They tend to hang out along the river near the Visitor Center. On our earlier visit we stopped at the Learning Center and spent nearly a half hour with the park ranger talking about the history and geology of the Jones Gap area. Ranger Lee was extremely informative, and a very nice guy to boot.

Beyond the Learning Center, a foot bridge takes you across the river, past a signboard detailing all the trails in Mountain Bridge Wilderness, and onto the Jones Gap Trail. The blue-blazed trail is slightly uphill as it follows the whitewater of the wild river. When we were here a few years ago, this major trail artery up the gap was in excellent condition, perhaps a little rocky, but otherwise well taken care of. That is not the case now. Rain, year after year, has turned this trail into a sub-drainage of the river, and with it all the mud and erosion that would be expected. Unfortunately, it will be very expensive to repair the drainage problem.

There are 4-5 campsites alongside the trail and the river that make excellent vantage points for views upstream. During the green and warmer months, these sites are usually occupied, so you don’t want to infringe on their privacy. But off season, they’re good for photos of the river, and perhaps for a snack break.

An example view from one of the trailside campsites.

A little less than a mile upriver, look for red blazes bearing right onto the Rainbow Falls Trail. The Jones Gap Trail continues to the left at the junction and Rainbow Falls bears to the right. Here is the trail report, if you’re curious. But for this hike, take the left fork, blue blaze.

It is approximately another three-quarters mile from this junction to Jones Gap Falls. The trail gets decidedly steeper, climbing a few hundred feet. When you cross the river to a campground on the north side, you are almost there. Look for several nice cascades along this stretch.

You’re nearly there now. When you reach the trail sign for the falls, head uphill away from the river. It isn’t far, perhaps 70 yards. Once you clear the first rise you will know you’re there. This is a large waterfall — 50 feet in height, probably 15-20 feet wide. Because of heavy winter rain, it was flowing pretty good. Both sides of the falls are surrounded by extremely thick rhododendron. I suspect this area is a chromatic delight during bloom season.

There are some flat rocks at the base of the falls that are perfect for lunch. They are just far enough away from the falls that we didn’t get mist in the face as we put on the feed bag. We stayed for nearly a half hour for pictures, and simply to enjoy this appealing waterfall.

After getting renourished, we still had some energy, so we continued up Jones Gap Trail. You can go another four miles to the western end of Jones Gap. Here’s the trail report. But we weren’t that adventurous. We went up another quarter mile or so, found a nice cascade along the river, and discovered what I call Smiley Rock. See the photos below.

From Jones Gap Falls, the return to the Visitor Center is just a straight shot back down Jones Gap the way you came.

Summarizing, unfortunately the condition of the Jones Gap Trail has really deteriorated since my initial visit in 2012. It’s a shame too. The SC State Parks folks had done a wonderful job building it. It is certainly still passable. Just plan on getting your hiking boots muddy, and be very careful where you step. Very easy to turn an ankle, or worse. The waterfall is quite nice, well worth the effort to get there. This is one the entire family can enjoy, as long as you have appropriate footwear.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

The trail system, which is a series of “stacked loop” trails, is tucked into the forest next to Southern Wesleyan University’s Central, SC campus and is a collaboration between the university and the Town of Central. The trails will be free and open to the public.

While most public trail systems can take up to a decade to build out – Greenville’s Swamp Rabbit Trail and Pickens’ Doodle Trail both took years – the Central/SWU trails are on target to finish in a year.

The project will cost around $150,000 and be able to accommodate hundreds of visitors. The trail system will be the first mountain biking route in Central.

The outdoor area is also envisioned as an event space, hosting everything from cross country and cycling races to mud runs once operational.

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In warmer months, it’s common to see a line of cars waiting outside Jones Gap State Park as early as 9 a.m. on the weekend. Jones Gap has only 36 parking spaces; when those are full, the park is considered “at capacity” and the gates close until more visitors can be accepted. With 415,852 visitors welcomed to the Mountain Bridge Wilderness area last year – a figure that has nearly doubled since 2014 – getting outdoors is getting harder to do. Now, the park’s capacity likely will get a sorely needed boost.

The Nature Conservancy has purchased 955 acres in northern Greenville County known as the Gap Creek property. The Conservancy plans to transfer the property to South Carolina State Parks in 2018 to be added to Jones Gap State Park. The Gap Creek addition will increase the size of the park by nearly 25 percent.

“Gap Creek is a dual gift for Upstate residents and visitors,” says Phil Gaines, South Carolina state park director. “Its 955 acres include flat land that is ideal for more parking, facilities, trail heads and other visitor amenities. This property can help the Park Service meet its vision for expanding visitor service and making this wilderness area accessible to more South Carolinians.”

Gap Creek has been a high conservation priority for decades because of its size, connection to other conserved lands and unique natural features. The property is home to healthy, contiguous hardwood forests that provide habitat for animals such as black bear, migratory songbirds and even bats. Headwater streams and a series of cascades on the property support cold-water fish, salamanders and frogs before eventually making their way to Saluda Lake.

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The National Audubon Society’s Francis Beidler Forest located in Four Holes Swamp, South Carolina contains within its 18,000 acres the largest remaining stand of virgin bald cypress and tupelo gum swamp forest left anywhere in the world.

Wander along an elevated boardwalk that starts and ends at the visitor center past ancient trees, black water swamp, clear pools, and wildlife. Thousand-year-old trees and native wildlife abound in this pristine sanctuary that has been untouched for millennia.

A 1.75-mile self-guiding boardwalk trail allows visitors the chance to safely venture deep into the heart of the swamp… to experience the peace and serenity that have characterized the area for centuries… to hear the sounds of bird and bug and breeze that have echoed through the trees for ages… to take a relaxing and informative walk back into time… to see a swamp the way nature intended it to be.

Located in the heart of the South Carolina Lowcountry between Columbia and Charleston, Four Holes Swamp is a 45,000-acre matrix of black water sloughs and lakes, shallow bottomland hardwoods, and deep bald cypress and tupelo gum flats— and a major tributary of the Edisto River.

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This park sits right on the cliff’s edge of the Blue Ridge Escarpment that drops down from the mountains in western North Carolina to the upcountry of South Carolina. The park is more than 3,000 acres of trails, lakes, cabins and camping. Pinnacle Mountain Trail is the most challenging within the park, with a climb that exceeds 2,300 feet. The lower section follows Carrick Creek, while the upper levels offer fantastic views into the South Carolina Upstate, with massive rock outcroppings along the way. Ken and I hiked Pinnacle Mountain at Table Rock State Park on Monday, December 18, 2017 beginning at 9:30AM and ending about 3:30PM. Our plan was to hike Pinnacle Mountain Trail to the Mill Creek Pass Trail, connect with the Ridge Trail, then take Table Rock Trail to the summit of Table Rock. It didn’t work out that way, and we visited the Pinnacle Mountain summit instead.

When we arrived at the Table Rock State Park Visitor Center on Lake Oolenoy we learned that a change of plans was in the cards. Instead of heading up Table Rock via the Pinnacle Mountain Trail and Mill Creek Pass, we would instead hike to the summit of Pinnacle Mountain. Why? 2016 brought a devastating wildfire to the forest of Table Rock and 2017 saw Hurricane Irma ravage the area, blowing down trees and eroding trails. Not to worry. This would still be an enjoyable hike. We also learned that over the years since our last visit to Table Rock State Park, they had raised the day use fee from $2 per person to $5. Still a bargain.

The lower part of this hike follows Carrick Creek past a series of small waterfalls, over wooden footbridges, and along smooth creek bedrock. It shares the first quarter mile with the Table Rock Trail, one that we had hiked way back in 2011. At the split we turned left onto yellow-blazed Pinnacle Mountain Trail, while Table Rock Trail goes to the right.

We happened to arrive on a very foggy morning. The forest was actually kind of eery. However, a pair of hikers coming down the mountain from an overnight camp told us there was good news ahead. We would eventually climb above the cloud inversion, offering a masterpiece view of the low valley fog.

The next two and a half miles are gently uphill, passing through deciduous forest and groves of mountain laurel and rhododendron. You continue to follow Carrick Creek for a mile or more, much of it rubbed bare and smooth over thousands of years draining Pinnacle Mountain. You could almost slide on your behind along the path of the creek like a water park, but don’t. They wouldn’t like that.

The higher you get, the rockier the terrain. Car sized boulders and fins appear in the woods, crumbling eons ago from the escarpment high above. Just past the 2.5 mile marker you reach The Mill Creek Falls spur trail. It was our intention to take the 0.4 mile sidetrack to observe the waterfall. However, it is still closed thanks to the thoughtlessness of Hurricane Irma.

So on we pushed, soon passing the southern end of the Mill Creek Pass Trail, one that we would use for our return after visiting Pinnacle Mountain. The rocks are house size now, and we began to enter the wildfire zone. It was really hard to tell how much the ecology has recovered in one short year because we were there in winter. There was no green to be seen. There are, however, still many, many burn marks.

The trail really begins climbing in earnest now, becoming increasingly steeper the higher you go. This makes it all the more amazing how the wildfire burned this steepest part of the mountain. We had also now cleared the fog layer, and were looking down upon it. Nearly 400 feet above the Pass junction, you reach the remarkable Bald Rock.

There are two levels to this massive cliff face, each offering a unique view of the South Carolina Upstate. The first level is a little more rounded, with a less scary edge, but the upper level has a definitive precipice. You don’t want to get too close because it is a very long way down. The vista to the south was limited because of the sea of clouds below us, but there is a magnificent view of the Table Rock pluton off to the east.

Don’t get too close to the Bald Rock edge. Believe me, the bottom is not as soft as those clouds look.

There was a nice couple sitting on Bald Rock, enjoying lunch. We chatted for a bit and learned this was to be their turning around point. Based on what I learned later, I kinda wish I’d made the same decision.

From Bald Rock, the trail climbs another 625 feet to the summit of Pinnacle Mountain in just a half mile, or less. That is steep folks… and I’m not afraid to tell you that it took everything I had to make it to the top. I’m not as strong a hiker as I was five years ago (I am older after all), but I can still hold my own. Believe me when I tell you that this half mile stretch is strenuous.

About half way there you reach the junction with the famous Foothills Trail. If you are ever interested in a multi-day trek in this neck of the woods, there is a lot to behold along the Foothills, including the nearby Sassafras Mountain.

It’s still another 340 feet up to the summit, the steepest part yet. It doesn’t get any easier. As you’ll see from the picture below that I took of the summit sign, I did make it, but I was a wreck when I reached the top. The good news is the nice logs at the summit that make perfect seats for a rest, and a lunch break.

Ken, as he always does, still seemed fresh from the climb, but he did admit to me that even he was tired. We stayed for about 20 minutes, eating lunch, and catching our breath. There isn’t really much to see on the summit, unfortunately. There are no cool views or historic artifacts, just the self-knowledge that you accomplished the feat.

Here, the Pinnacle Mountain Trail meets the orange-blazed Ridge Trail. You can take the Ridge Trail all the way nearly two miles to its meeting with the Table Rock Trail, but our plan was just to descend to the upper junction of the Mill Creek Pass Trail. As you would expect, the first quarter mile going down is very steep, just like the ascent. We ran into more evidence of the 2016 wildfire along the way.

It’s ¾ mile to the bypass, dropping a total of 550 feet. Then, the blue-blazed Pass Trail is another ¾ mile, and drops another 400 feet. Hard on the knees and hips. Look for lots and lots of mountain laurel along the way. This stretch of trail is probably quite beautiful with pink and white flowers in May.

Once back on the Pinnacle Mountain Trail, it’s then a three mile trudge back to the trailhead, terrain already covered on the way up. It was more clear now, as the fog layer had finally burned off, and the air temp had warmed nicely. We encountered a half dozen more hikers getting a late start on their way up, likely overnighters.

In summary, this hike is hard, but that doesn’t make it a bad experience. Bald Rock, for example, is by itself well worth the effort. The views are stupendous. Perhaps just consider an up and back to there. If you are a really gung-ho super hiker, then go for the entire loop to Pinnacle Mountain, on to Panther Gap and Governor’s Rock, and then up to the summit of Table Rock, a total of about 12 miles with two major ascents. Y’know, I’ve only visited Table Rock in the winter so far. I think I need to plan a spring excursion.

I'd like to pass along a well deserved pat on the back for all the employees and volunteers of the SC Parks Dept. who have been working on repairs to the Table Rock trail system since the devastating wildfire and hurricane. The crews have done remarkable work restoring access to the trails. There's still a lot of work to do, but they earn huge kudos from me.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Another of the fun and exciting South Carolina state parks that line the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway, Keowee Toxaway offers two hiking trails that take visitors over a natural bridge and through the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, land once traveled by Cherokee Indians. Much of the trail follows the shore of Lake Keowee through the healthy oak/hickory forest that surrounds it. The trail’s namesakes are interesting features, but the highlights of this hike are the terrain and the views. I hiked Natural Bridge and Raven Rock Trails on Wednesday, December 6, 2017 beginning at 9:15AM and ending about 12:20PM. My plan was to hike this double loop on the eastern side outbound, then return on the west.

It’s kind of amazing when you think about it… all the state parks that are lined up along the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway (SC-11). Starting with Jones Gap and Caesars Head, then on to Table Rock, followed by Keowee Toxaway and Devils Fork, then ending at Oconee. Quite a few choices for adventure. Keowee Toxaway is closest to the highway of all of them.

And while convenient for getting to the trailhead, the highway noise on the first half mile of the hike is a bit annoying as the Natural Bridge Trail pretty much parallels the road. The passing cars and trucks were definitely the first thing I noticed as I set out, but I eventually got over it and started paying more attention to the sights rather than the sounds.

The first loop of this hike is the 1.3 mile Natural Bridge Trail. Short, but not necessarily easy for those who may just wander in from their couch in Nyak, NY wearing nothing but sandals. It drops about 200 feet along the Poe Creek drainage, meaning you have to climb back up to get to the trailhead. 15 minutes in, the sounds change from highway noise to the rushing of Poe Creek.

At the half mile mark you cross Natural Bridge. If you aren’t paying attention, you will probably walk right over it. It is a large granite slab, differentiated from the clay tread of most of the trail, but you really have to drop down over the side to see the opening beneath the rock. Probably about two feet high, it is indeed a natural bridge, but it pales in comparison to others I have visited. Look for a Poe Creek waterfall on your left a few hundred feet after the natural bridge.

Half way around the Natural Bridge loop is the junction with Raven Rock Trail, and the meat of this hike begins. You start climbing immediately up the slopes of McKinney Mountain, past massive granite outcroppings. This is primarily an oak/hickory forest, with occasional beech and pine to mix it up a bit. There is also lots and lots of mountain laurel, so I expect this to be quite resplendent in pink flowers come May.

After another half mile you reach the crest of McKinney Mountain, about 400 feet higher than the low point along Poe Creek. Now it’s downhill on the approach to Keowee Lake. This is the stretch of trail where you need to be careful. It crosses exposed granite in places. On the day I was there the granite was still wet from overnight rain. If you’re familiar with what happens to granite when it gets wet, you know to take your time and test your footing.

With the leaves down, I was able to see through the woods as the lake appeared about a quarter mile before I descended to its level. The Raven Rock Trail stays about 25 yards from the lake, but it is easy to walk through the woods for a clear view of the shoreline. Directly on the other side is the Cliffs at Keowee resort community, including its golf course.

The trail winds in and out of various coves in the lake shore, eventually reaching a small peninsula with a spur trail that takes you to three tent campsites. From the tip of the peninsula you have a great view of one of the golf greens as well as what used to be Estatoe Creek. Of course the former route of the creek is now filled with reservoir water. Look too for small sandy beaches that line the shore.

A Cliffs at Keowee resort greenskeeper tends one of his greens before the golfers arrive. This used to be Estatoe Creek.

When you return to Raven Rock Trail from the campsites, the ascent back up McKinney Mountain begins. A couple things I noticed throughout the hike were, a) there had been quite a bit of recent blowdown along the trails from frequent wind storms, but the state parks folks have done a remarkable job of keeping the trails clear (hat tip), and b) judging by the number of spider webs my face plowed into, apparently the spiders in South Carolina don’t mind cold weather. Perhaps the NC spiders migrate south for the winter.

It is about a third mile from the campsites to Raven Rock itself. When standing on Raven Rock, it doesn’t really seem like much, perhaps about 20 feet square, but the bulk of Raven Rock is beneath you. You can see by looking over the side that it is a massive wall of granite. From the lake in a boat, it would be quite impressive.

On this day it was also wet and slippery. Be careful, because if you go over the edge you will splash below. I could hear the rock whispering to me that it was time for lunch, so I pulled up a seat and pulled out my sandwich. While munching, I looked around a bit. Directly in front of you is a small island in the lake. It probably has a name, but I couldn’t find it. On the other side of the lake are more trophy resort homes in the Cliffs development.

You are also high enough here to see the Blue Ridge Mountains behind the shorter ridge nearest the lake. There was a nice wispy layer of clouds hovering near the Blue Ridge that enhanced the view. The lake itself was mirror still, creating very appealing reflections of the forest that surrounds the shore. All in all, a nice spot for a break.

Once I resumed hiking it was still about a half mile to the Raven Rock Trail loop junction, then another half back past all the granite outcroppings on McKinney Mountain to the Natural Bridge Trail junction. I turned right here to do the lower, western side of the NBT loop.

The trail drops another hundred feet alongside Poe Creek, including a set of stairs built into the somewhat steep hillside. At the bottom is a trail sign pointing the way across Poe Creek. Also at the bottom is another waterfall. This one is tiered, making a five foot plunge, then taking a sharp right turn and dropping another five feet… all surrounded by granite boulders and rhododendron. No doubt a very pleasing sight in June when the rhodo is in bloom.

After crossing the creek, the trail continues to follow the creek for a bit and then begins that final 200 feet ascent that I mentioned earlier. As the rush of Poe Creek disappears behind you, the traffic sounds on Hwy 11 announce that you are nearly back to the trailhead. There is one final twisty stairway to navigate, then the last quarter mile push back to the Visitor Center.

In summary, I’m likely to spend a lot more time at the South Carolina state parks this winter. The Upstate is 2,000 feet lower, and usually 8-10° warmer than the mountains. It took me only 65 minutes to get to Keowee Toxaway from my home, and Jones Gap, Caesars Head, and Table Rock are even closer than that. This double loop hike at Keowee Toxaway is a nice way to spend three hours. It’s not too hard, but will give you some exercise. This one should be fine for the whole family, even your pooch.

Update March 30, 2018: With Spring here and the weather warming, a search for early season wildflowers seemed in order. Somewhere along the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Hwy popped into my mind, so Keowee Toxaway it was. I wasn’t disappointed. While there weren’t a lot of flowers, there was quite a wide variety, and a good inkling of things to come. Not a lot happening with the trees yet, although I did see a few buds, and the maple seed pods were out, turning the tree tops a delightful red. Here’s some new pictures from my visit.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Congaree National Park, located in the heart of South Carolina, is a land of towering trees, of floods and fire, of woodland paths and water trails used by people for more than 10,000 years. This rare, old growth forest became a national park in 1976. These ancient trees have witnessed wars, slavery, freedom, and destruction. There are 25 miles of hiking trails in Congaree, including Oakridge. Passing through a rich stretch of old growth forest, along the way you will cross a number of sloughs, or small creeks that carry floodwaters into and out of the park’s floodplain as the level of Congaree River rises and falls. Ken and I hiked Oakridge Trail on Wednesday, November 29, 2017 beginning at 9:15AM and ending about 2:15PM. Our plan was to take Boardwalk Trail to Weston Lake Trail, then on to Oakridge Trail. On the return we would catch the other side of each loop.

I just happened to notice it was going to be 70° in South Carolina the week after Thanksgiving. Seemed like a good time for a road trip. Congaree National Park, just southeast of Columbia, is only 2.5 hours from the mountains, so that seemed like a great opportunity to explore a new place. It was a good choice.

Just driving into Congaree National Park you can tell this place is different. I’ve been visiting and hiking the creeks and forests of the Blue Ridge and Great Smoky Mountains for years. This central Carolina floodplain is not the mountains. The forest is different. The aromas are different.

The Congaree River is bounded on both sides by bluffs that mark the edge of the floodplain and help contain floodwaters that cover much of the park each year. Those floods bring in minerals and other nutrients to the ecosystem. Most of the year the park is dry, but after a heavy rain sloughs and guts (small water channels) begin to fill.

Centuries ago, the southeastern North American continent was abundant in old growth forest floodplain. Today, more than 99 percent of it has been lost to pastures, farms and cities. The trees were cut for ships, railroads and buildings. 35 million acres are gone. Less than one half of one percent — 11,000 acres — is protected in Congaree National Park.

As soon as you begin hiking from the Harry Hampton Visitor Center (named for a journalist instrumental in protecting Congaree) on the Lower Boardwalk Trail you begin to notice the murky, swampy feel of the terrain on either side. Squirrels skitter about from dry spot to dry spot. Pileated woodpeckers dig for grubs in the fallen, wet trees.

After a quarter mile or so you come to the bald cypress trees, groves of which will provide shade throughout the remainder of the day. Also, you will find the first of the “knees,” unusual pointed mini-trees that stand anywhere from 1-3 feet high. Since cypress trees have such a wide but shallow root structure, the knees help stabilize their entire system. Many of these cypress systems are considered “champion trees,” the largest of their kind in the nation.

The Boardwalk is a 2.4 mile loop that allows easy access for all visitors to Congaree, offering an example of what the wilderness areas of the park have in store for those who set out on longer expeditions. The west side of the Boardwalk stands only about a foot above ground and may be regularly covered by water. The eastern side is elevated anywhere from five to 12 feet, enabling you to see the floodplain in action.

After three quarters of a mile, the Boardwalk makes a left turn, while the rest of the trail system continues on land into the wilderness. The first trail you will be on here, Weston Lake Loop Trail, is #3 and is blaze-marked as such. Most of Congaree is wilderness, a designation that protects its wild character, natural conditions, and opportunities for solitude. No mechanical objects are allowed in designated wilderness, preserving quiet, peace and serenity for wildlife, and for hikers. The only break in the silence is the occasional flyover of fighter jets from nearby Shaw Air Force Base.

Bald cypress “knees” help to stabilize the root system of these giant trees that stand in water.

The Weston Lake Loop Trail is an inner loop within the wilderness that is 4.4 miles in total, and stays on the north side of Cedar Creek. Oakridge Trail (#4) is a 6.6 mile outer loop that crosses to the south side of Cedar Creek and offers additional exploration. Ken and I felt adventurous, so we mapped out a path that would take us most of the way around both loops, a hike of almost 10 miles.

We soon began to notice another of the forest differences of lowland South Carolina — spanish moss hanging from the branches and treetops of the giant oaks and beech. We were treated to a surprise as well, there was quite a bit of autumn leaf color still happening, even at this late November date.

As you walk into the backcountry, the swamp whispers stories of its abundant history. The first people inhabited the Congaree 10,000 years ago, hunting with stone arrowheads and gathering pawpaws. Europeans began to explore the area in the 1500’s bringing with them disease and war, stealing the land from the native peoples.

As you walk among the cypress groves growing in dry sloughs, you notice the occasional small meadows, remains of the slave period when the floodplain was developed for crops. During the Revolutionary War, the famous American general Francis Marion, known as the Swamp Fox, led a siege that broke the British hold on the land around Congaree.

In the next century, during the Civil War, slaves used the Congaree as a hiding place, even forming small communities. After the war, the freed people were able to buy farms in the “40 acres and a mule” program. As the turn of the century approached, a logging company bought most of the Congaree floodplain, hoping to score a fortune from the old growth oaks, cypress and pine. Instead, they discovered the frequently wet forest to be difficult and expensive to log, and gave up.

In the mid-20th century, the loggers tried again, but this time were stymied by a grassroots campaign to save the forest, led by journalist Harry Hampton. With bipartisan support, legislation was eventually passed to preserve this largest remaining old growth floodplain in the Southeastern United States, and in 1976 Congaree was given national park status.

The Oakridge Trail is easy to hike, level and wandering. We were fortunate to catch it completely dry, not even damp. A park ranger at the Visitor Center told us before we started that mud is very common. The ground cover is mostly switch cane and river cane, quite common in the Carolina lowlands. In addition to the cypress, oak and beech, look for tupelo trees with their swollen trunks.

There is occasional blow down that must be navigated, courtesy of hurricanes Hugo in 1989, Matthew in 2016, and Irma in 2017. Some of it may be difficult for small children to get over, but lifting and carrying will solve that problem.

As we reached the eastern side of Oakridge Trail, we once again crossed over Cedar Creek and picked up the southern bottom of the Weston Lake Loop Trail, following Cedar Creek for the next mile and a quarter. We kept an eye out for river otters. Sightings are common along the creek bank, but not for us on this day. So we found a particularly scenic spot amid a cypress grove and stopped for lunch.

This particularly enticing view along Weston Lake Trail proved to be a delightful place for lunch and a rest.

The impressive height of the Congaree forest canopy comes thanks to the extremely rich soil, the frequent flooding, and the southeastern climate offering a long growing season. The oaks and cypress average 130 feet here, and on the western side of Weston Lake Trail there are loblolly pines that scrape the sky 160 feet above.

These “champion” trees, however, remain at risk despite the protections that are now in place. Floods bring with them pollution. Climate change is altering plant growth and animal behavior, as well as weather patterns (for example, the more frequent high-wind hurricanes).

As we returned to the eastern side of the Weston Lake Loop, we hopped back on the Boardwalk to head over to the west side of the loop again to check out the massively tall loblollies, and Weston Lake. Once a bend in the Congaree River, Weston Lake is now what is called an oxbow lake, a U-shaped body of water that forms when a wide meander from the main stem of a river is cut off, creating a free-standing body.

I was struck by how the lake’s elevation is right there with the dry land. Walking along the lakeshore made it quite evident just how easy it is for all of this to flood. It probably isn’t a good idea to visit Congaree soon after an especially hard rain. The park ranger also told us that when the trees go dormant in winter, they stop drawing water from the earth. Therefore, the water table naturally rises, flooding the surface even if there hasn’t been rain. Amazing!

After viewing the lake and the champion pines, we headed back to the Boardwalk for the return to the Visitor Center. This eastern side of the Boardwalk is elevated, quite the work of engineering. We were impressed with the pylons, some steel, some wood, that support more than a mile of lumber.

Along the way we passed stands of dwarf palmetto, cousins of the cabbage palmetto, the South Carolina state symbol. There is also a large iron box on the right side of the Boardwalk that is a remnant of the rough and tumble moonshiner days when alcohol was banned by the government. There are also occasional snags, dead trees that are still standing. Hopefully when they fall they don’t crush the Boardwalk.

When we got back to the Visitor Center, we went inside once again to thank the rangers and volunteers for an awesome experience. The park infrastructure, and its trails, are trash free. We did not come upon any along the nearly 10 miles of trails we hiked. The restrooms are clean, the exhibits are informative, and the people are friendly and helpful. What more could you ask for? Oh, the park is free too.

There is plenty more to do at Congaree National Park besides hiking. There are two campgrounds for tent camping only. You can canoe the Congaree River and portions of Cedar Creek. Fishing and wildlife viewing are favorites of many. More than 1,000 varieties of butterflies and moths live here, and yes, there are spiders too.

In the spring and summer, look for wildflowers along the pathways, and fireflies and owls after dark. Really the only negative wildlife are the feral hogs who root the ground for food, damaging the native plants, and the historic sites. The ground near the sloughs showed ample evidence of their presence.

There are 25 miles total of maintained trails within Congaree National Park. Ken and I scratched the surface with our excursion. You can even bring your doggie with you — on a leash. The River Trail and the Kingsnake Trail are longer adventures that go deep into the backcountry of the park’s wilderness. I can assure you we will be back.

Gee, I almost forgot. When you arrive for your visit to Congaree, be sure to check the “skeeter meter” hanging in the breezeway outside the Visitor Center. It will tell you what to expect on that day from the pesky mosquitoes. There are six levels on the meter, ranging from “all clear” (which it was on our visit in late November) to “war zone.” You probably want to wear 10 pounds of repellent as well as netting on those days in the summer.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.