looking glass rock – Meanderthals https://internetbrothers.org A Hiking Blog Thu, 24 Sep 2020 12:59:54 +0000 en-US hourly 1 21607891 Time for Litter Pickup and Pictures on the Blue Ridge Parkway – A Photo Essay https://internetbrothers.org/2020/09/25/time-for-litter-pickup-and-pictures-on-the-blue-ridge-parkway-a-photo-essay/ https://internetbrothers.org/2020/09/25/time-for-litter-pickup-and-pictures-on-the-blue-ridge-parkway-a-photo-essay/#respond Fri, 25 Sep 2020 11:34:21 +0000 https://internetbrothers.org/?p=35720

hose of you who have known me for awhile are aware that, since retirement, I have been what the National Park Service calls a VIP. Sounds pretentious, but really all it means is Volunteer in Parks. I help out at two, the Blue Ridge Parkway and Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Up on the Parkway […]]]>

Those of you who have known me for awhile are aware that, since retirement, I have been what the National Park Service calls a VIP. Sounds pretentious, but really all it means is Volunteer in Parks. I help out at two, the Blue Ridge Parkway and Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Up on the Parkway I pick up litter, clean out storm drains, and do general tidying at one of the high country overlooks. During the green season I go about every 2-3 weeks. It was time. I made a plan to combine it with a Blue Ridge sunrise. So I got up early and made the drive to the Parkway in the dark.

I was rewarded with a cloudy day, conducive to colors painted on the clouds by the rising sun. The downside, though, is that once the sun does rise above the horizon, it then goes behind those clouds. The event is short lived. Frankly, the pre-sunrise was the show on this morning; Wednesday, September 23, 2020.

Once there was enough daylight I did the trash pickup and other chores, then moved further west on the Parkway, seeking photo opportunities along the way. I always carry a camera when I go to the high country. You never know what you might see.

The following is what I saw.

 

 

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

 

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The World Is Still Out There in Spite of Coronavirus – A Photo Essay https://internetbrothers.org/2020/07/28/the-world-is-still-out-there-in-spite-of-coronavirus-a-photo-essay/ https://internetbrothers.org/2020/07/28/the-world-is-still-out-there-in-spite-of-coronavirus-a-photo-essay/#respond Tue, 28 Jul 2020 10:44:18 +0000 https://internetbrothers.org/?p=35339

oes 2020 seem like a lost year so far? If you’re like me it has. I’ve been self-isolating since mid-March because of coronavirus. I only venture out to get groceries for my dad and myself. I have been hiking a grand total of once since March, and that time was only after entering Phase II […]]]>

Does 2020 seem like a lost year so far? If you’re like me it has. I’ve been self-isolating since mid-March because of coronavirus. I only venture out to get groceries for my dad and myself. I have been hiking a grand total of once since March, and that time was only after entering Phase II of the grand reopening. Obviously soon after, positive cases began soaring, so it was back to stay home, stay safe.

In the meantime, folks have been visiting state and national parks in record breaking numbers, and in a lot of cases, leaving their trash behind. I never have understood litter, especially on our beautiful public lands, but apparently many find it necessary to exhibit their privilege. As a trash collecting volunteer on the Blue Ridge Parkway this saddens me.

Parkway management finally told the volunteers we were allowed to come back and work in June. I’ve resisted the temptation up to this point, but felt it was probably about time to do my part. So on Sunday, July 26th I packed up my mask, my gloves, my reacher-grabber tool and sanitary wipes for an inspection and cleaning of Pounding Mill Overlook. I went early in the morning to avoid as much crowding as possible. Much to my surprise, the overlook was not entirely trashed. There was more than usual, but mostly small stuff like paper and cigarettes.

I brought my camera along too, so when I finished my chores, it was time for a peaceful drive west on the Parkway. Starting at milepost 410, I continued to milepost 430 with many stops along the way. The weather was near ideal early, but as the morning wore on, the clouds began building. I stopped at Ferrin Knob Overlook for a lunch break, and watched the traffic on the Parkway building as well.

About noon I called it a day because of crowding, and concern about thunderstorms. I had one additional stop planned, along Scenic Byway 276, at one of the old CCC stone bridges over Looking Glass Creek. The ever intensifying clouds helped set the mood. Fortunately I got a few shots in before the sky opened up about five minutes after I finished. It was a wet drive the rest of the way to Brevard.

Below are some of the photos I captured on this day, only my second time out since March 2020. Feel free to leave any comments.

 

 

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

 

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That Day Tropical Storm Barry Came to Visit the Blue Ridge Parkway – A Photo Essay https://internetbrothers.org/2019/07/15/that-day-tropical-storm-barry-came-to-visit-the-blue-ridge-parkway-a-photo-essay/ https://internetbrothers.org/2019/07/15/that-day-tropical-storm-barry-came-to-visit-the-blue-ridge-parkway-a-photo-essay/#respond Mon, 15 Jul 2019 15:07:29 +0000 https://internetbrothers.org/?p=33311

loudy and very windy. That’s what greeted me the morning of July 14, 2019 as I first stepped from my car at Pounding Mill Overlook (milepost 413). Those who know me also know that I’ve been picking up trash and otherwise maintaining this overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway for each of the last 10 […]]]>

Cloudy and very windy. That’s what greeted me the morning of July 14, 2019 as I first stepped from my car at Pounding Mill Overlook (milepost 413). Those who know me also know that I’ve been picking up trash and otherwise maintaining this overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway for each of the last 10 years. As I walked around to survey the accumulated trash since my last visit, it was everything I could do to stand. Seriously!

If you’ve been to Pounding Mill you know it is exposed to the elements on a near horseshoe curve that juts out over Pisgah National Forest far below. The wind was at least 40 mph, with gusts even higher. Several times I had to really take a wide berth and plant my feet to remain upright. Must be Tropical Storm Barry all this way north and east. No trash collection now… perhaps later, on the way back.

So I got back in the car and headed west. Still nursing a sprained ankle while hiking Memorial Day weekend, this would be a car trip with maybe a few short walks at particularly picturesque vantage points. The clouds certainly looked threatening, but the forecast from TWC said no rain until mid- afternoon. Should I trust them? It really was dark, with fast-moving clouds pushing up and through the gaps.

Over the course of the next 18 miles I stopped at every overlook, including some of the best views like Cherry Cove, Big East, Devils Courthouse, Ferrin Knob, Spot Knob, Caney Fork and Richland Balsam. I turned around at the highest point on the Parkway (milepost 431). When I got to mile 430 the sky actually began to clear a bit, offering glimpses of blue sky between the now white cloud layers.

The wildflowers were in abundance, especially the rosebay rhododendron. They appeared to be in peak bloom above 5,000 feet. Many were in that lavender transition stage from bud to bloom. Lovely. I also found phlox, coneflowers, morning glories, and black eyed susans.

Enjoy the gallery below representing a sample of what I saw along my journey. The rhododendrons were scattered throughout, but I saved them all for last in the display. By the way, when I got back to Pounding Mill, the wind had dropped to about 20 mph, so I was able to complete my trash removal mission.

 

 

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.
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Overnighting in the High Country on the Blue Ridge Parkway – A Photo Essay https://internetbrothers.org/2019/06/15/overnighting-in-the-high-country-on-the-blue-ridge-parkway-a-photo-essay/ https://internetbrothers.org/2019/06/15/overnighting-in-the-high-country-on-the-blue-ridge-parkway-a-photo-essay/#respond Sat, 15 Jun 2019 16:32:57 +0000 https://internetbrothers.org/?p=33132

here’s not much more beautiful than the high country along the Blue Ridge Parkway in June. The days are long. The forest has completed its greening and the heath bushes are in bloom. If you catch the sights in the evening or very early morning you can even avoid the crowds. I’ve been on the […]]]>

There’s not much more beautiful than the high country along the Blue Ridge Parkway in June. The days are long. The forest has completed its greening and the heath bushes are in bloom. If you catch the sights in the evening or very early morning you can even avoid the crowds.

I’ve been on the shelf for a few weeks with an ankle injury while hiking, and was really suffering fear of missing out anguish. I can’t do much walking, so I came up with a plan that would enable me to combine my volunteer work on the Parkway with a chance to catch a sunset and sunrise from Black Balsam at milepost 420.

I loaded my foam sleeping pad in the back of my Subaru and headed to Pounding Mill Overlook at 6:00 PM to pick up trash. When done, I continued another few miles west to the Black Balsam spur road. The air was cool as a cold front has been hanging over the Southern Appalachians for a few days. It was jacket weather, but the good news was the high pressure and persistent breeze had cleared out the haze, leaving crystal clear sky and long distance viewing.

From my perch at 6,000 feet over Graveyard Fields and Looking Glass Rock, I planned on enjoying the sunset, and the sunrise. I brought a picnic to while away the time as I took pictures from my tripod and watched the scenery change with ever lengthening shadows. The moon was hanging over the scene, about three-quarters full, adding natural lighting and ambiance.

Once it was dark, I enjoyed the star constellations and wispy clouds for an hour before crawling into my Subaru for some shuteye. I got up once around midnight to see if the Milky Way was visible, but there was too much light from the moon and the towns of Brevard and Hendersonville… even Greenville way off in the distance.

Back to sleep, I got up again at 6:00 AM, and was quickly energized by the 41° temp and 25 mph wind that greeted me. Brrr! Good thing I came prepared with plenty of warm clothes.

I setup the tripod, and waited patiently for that big orange globe to make its daily appearance on the eastern horizon. I was not disappointed. The sunrise was magnificent. While the cloudless sky did not light up the entire arena with hues of pink and orange, it did enable clear viewing all the way to the Black Mountains far north of Asheville. Très bon.

After sixty minutes enjoying the golden hour, I packed up and headed 10 miles further west, stopping for occasional photos along the way. Finishing up at Herrin Knob, it was time to call it a day. I was back home by 9:30. All in all, a wonderful adventure. It wasn’t as exciting as getting out on the trail, but was pretty darn nice for an old geezer hobbling around on one leg.

The photos below are from the evening of June 13, 2019 and morning of June 14. Feel free to make any comments below the gallery, or tell me about your overnight experiences in the high country. Thanks for visiting!

 

 

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.
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Black Balsam to Silvermine and Chestnut Balds on Mountains to Sea Trail, Blue Ridge Parkway https://internetbrothers.org/2015/10/24/black-balsam-to-silvermine-and-chestnut-balds-on-mountains-to-sea-trail-blue-ridge-parkway/ https://internetbrothers.org/2015/10/24/black-balsam-to-silvermine-and-chestnut-balds-on-mountains-to-sea-trail-blue-ridge-parkway/#comments Sat, 24 Oct 2015 20:22:22 +0000 http://internetbrothers.org/?p=17392

ooking for a short, easy, serene getaway in the high country that offers outstanding long distance views of the Blue Ridge Mountains? This is the trail for you. This little stretch of the famous Mountains to Sea Trail will take you from Black Balsam Road, through a dark and deep balsam spruce forest, across Silvermine […]]]>

Looking for a short, easy, serene getaway in the high country that offers outstanding long distance views of the Blue Ridge Mountains? This is the trail for you. This little stretch of the famous Mountains to Sea Trail will take you from Black Balsam Road, through a dark and deep balsam spruce forest, across Silvermine Bald and on to Chestnut Bald to a splendid overlook of Looking Glass Rock, Pilot Mountain, and Pisgah National Forest’s Cradle of Forestry. If you have your binoculars or a zoom lens, you can see all the way to Lake Jocassee in South Carolina, and to the Black Mountains northeast of Asheville. This is one of my go to trails when I just want to sit and meditate for awhile. Thisvisit was on Wednesday, October 21, 2015 from 12:00 noon to 2:30PM. My plan was to take the MST to Chestnut Bald, then return.

Hike Length: 3 miles round trip Hike Duration: 2.5 hours

Hike Configuration: Out and back Blaze: White

Hike Rating: Easy. Some route finding required, but mostly this is a nice easy stroll. Be careful on the rocky overlooks. It is a long way down.

Elevation Change: 150 feet, 290 feet gain Elevation Start: 5,890 feet

Trail Condition: Good. There are roots to beware of, but this is a well-worn path.

Starting Point: Mountains to Sea trailhead across from Black Balsam Knob.

Trail Traffic: The parking area along Black Balsam Road was full, but I only encountered one other pair of hikers on my side of the trail. Apparently everyone else was over on Black Balsam Knob. I made a good choice.

How to Get There: From Brevard, NC take Hwy. 276 into Pisgah National Forest, and all the way to the top at Wagon Road Gap where it meets the Blue Ridge Parkway at milepost 412. Turn south on the parkway toward Cherokee and go 8 miles to the Black Balsam Knob Rd. (FR816) It is a mile up the spur road to the parking area.

 

 

Just to make sure you know where this is, when you drive up Black Balsam Road from the Blue Ridge Parkway the trailhead is on the left. Most hiking in this area occurs on the right side of the road, but this one goes toward the south.

The trails starts out through a very dark black balsam spruce forest, one that would be easy to walk in circles if not for the white blaze marks on the trees. So be sure to look for the markings or you could become disoriented quite fast.

After a quarter mile you’ll pop out into a clearing with a view of the majestic Black Balsam Knob behind you. There are occasional primitive campsites sprinkled about, made apparent by the unsightly fire rings.

The giant trees change to bushes for a few hundred yards, mostly blueberry. It’s fun to watch these shrubs evolve through the seasons, starting as bright green in spring, developing their fruit in late summer, changing to a fire engine red in autumn, then losing their leaves completely in October. That is the stage I found them in on this recent trip.

You will then enter another spruce forest as the trail moves over to hug the rim of the cliffs high above the Blue Ridge Parkway. You will no doubt hear the traffic far below you, especially those dang noisy Harley Davidsons that are so common on the Parkway. We try to keep pollution away from our eyes and noses. It would be nice to reduce the ear pollution as well.

Watch for the occasional short side trail on the left that will take you to small overlooks of Pisgah National Forest stretched out in front of you to the south and east. But you ain’t seen nothin’ yet.

 

For example, this view of Looking Glass Rock is from one of the spur trails on Silvermine Bald.

For example, this view of Looking Glass Rock is from one of the spur trails on Silvermine Bald.

 

If you’re here in Spring, among the wildflowers to look for along the trail are multi-colored trillium as well as pink shell azalea. You’re also likely to find plenty of moss and lichens during all seasons, including the unusual reindeer lichen that normally grows in Canada, but was deposited here in the Blue Ridge and Smokies high country during one of the Ice Ages.

Just about a mile into your hike you will come to the junction with the Art Loeb Trail along the rim of Silvermine Bald. It is climbing up from the Blue Ridge Parkway far below. Turn right here to stay on the Mountains to Sea Trail. Soon after the trail makes a hundred foot descent into a gap and a small meadow. Folks use this meadow as another primitive campsite. In summer you are likely to find turk’s cap lilies growing here.

On the far side of the meadow you will climb back up the hundred feet you dropped before. Keep your eyes peeled on the left for the very large rock outcrop that denotes your arrival at Chestnut Bald overlook, the destination for this trail report. Unlike the other bald mountaintops that are so common in Western North Carolina like Roan Mountain, Max Patch, and even Black Balsam, Silvermine Bald and Chestnut Bald really no longer are. Bald, that is.

But they do have these wonderful natural overlooks that I think are among the most picturesque viewpoints in all of Pisgah National Forest. From this outcrop on Chestnut Bald you can see the cliffs plunging below Silvermine Bald to your left, with the north and west faces of Looking Glass Rock jutting up from the valley below. Directly in front of you is the long spine of Shuck Ridge leading to the pointed top summit of Pilot Mountain.

If you squint your eyes, on a clear day you can see Lake Jocassee 40 miles away in South Carolina. You can’t see it because of trees, but directly to your right is the massive stone face of Devils Courthouse. I almost always enjoy a meal here, and totally relax. The beauty of the scenery calms and soothes me. When I simply want to get away for a few hours from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, I like to come here.

 

This is the view to the east from Chestnut Bald overlook. I think it's one of the best around.

This is the view to the east from Chestnut Bald overlook. I think it’s one of the best around.

 

I have been sitting at this spot when the entire panorama was engulfed in fog. I could still envision what I knew to be there. So strong is my remembrance of the beauty of the scene that I can picture it with my mind’s eye. I have been here every season except winter. The Blue Ridge Parkway here in the high country is closed in winter. But there is a means to access this spot with a longish hike from Hwy 215. Perhaps this coming winter I will treat myself.

If you continue straight ahead on the Mountains to Sea Trail beyond Chestnut Bald, it eventually does spill out onto Hwy 215, then resumes on the other side of the road into the Middle Prong Wilderness. But on this day I was content to enjoy the serenity offered by my seat on the eons-old granite of my favorite outcrop, then turn around.

On the way back, the sun angle had changed so I took some more pictures, and took my time. I did encounter a young couple with backpacks who were no doubt planning an overnight in the wilderness. Their black lab seemed very excited by the opportunity. I can’t blame him. But these were the only other folks I saw all day. That is until I got into the mess of leaf peepers on the Parkway.

To summarize, this is a very nice hike that isn’t at all difficult, but will enable you to see some of the best views that Pisgah National Forest and the Blue Ridge Parkway have to offer. You might want to leave the toddlers at home for this one because there is some exposure to cliff edges. So too if you have an extreme fear of heights. The overlooks can be somewhat frightening.

Otherwise, this one is short and easy for the whole family. It’s a great seasonal hike too. If I make it in winter this year, I will come back here to share my experiences and hopefully post some pictures of the white stuff. Y’know, all those crazies getting in the traffic jam at Graveyard Fields can have it. I’ll take my favorite little hike all by myself.

 

 

Update May 3, 2016: Spring comes to the high country too. It’s later than down in the valleys, but this visit treated me to the earliest of the wildflowers and the first greening of the new season. It’s neat too, peering into the much greener lowlands. The weather was ideal, in the sixties all day with a nice breeze. Once the typical morning fog lifted, all the cloud cover was above the endless ridges that stretch far, far away. Here are some new photos for your enjoyment, including a really out of place peony that was growing on a hillside.

 

 

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

 

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Seniard Ridge Trail to Log Hollow Falls, Pisgah National Forest https://internetbrothers.org/2014/12/28/seniard-ridge-trail-to-log-hollow-falls-pisgah-national-forest/ https://internetbrothers.org/2014/12/28/seniard-ridge-trail-to-log-hollow-falls-pisgah-national-forest/#comments Sun, 28 Dec 2014 19:27:15 +0000 http://internetbrothers.org/?p=13692

ccasionally a nice easy stroll to a beautiful waterfall is just what the doctor ordered. I made this a three and a half mile loop, but you can actually get to the waterfall in a mile round trip. The woods off FR 475B in Pisgah National Forest are dense and filled with mountain streams running […]]]>

Occasionally a nice easy stroll to a beautiful waterfall is just what the doctor ordered. I made this a three and a half mile loop, but you can actually get to the waterfall in a mile round trip. The woods off FR 475B in Pisgah National Forest are dense and filled with mountain streams running down from the Blue Ridge high above. One of these streams is Log Hollow Branch. Wherever you find mountain streams you are also likely to find waterfalls. Despite the allure, for some reason this one doesn’t get a lot of traffic. Easy to get to, seldom seen, Log Hollow Falls. I hiked to Log Hollow Falls on Wednesday, December 3, 2014 between 11:00AM and 12:45PM. My plan was to take Case Camp Ridge Trail to Seniard Ridge Trail, then on to the waterfall, returning on FR 475B.

Hike Length: 3.7 miles Hike Duration: 1.75 hours

Hike Configuration: Makeshift loop Blaze: Blue

Hike Rating: Easy. Piece of cake. C’mon, get out there.

Elevation Change: 360 feet Elevation Start: 3,340 feet

Trail Condition: Very good. Half forest road, half single track trail.

Starting Point: Case Camp Ridge trailhead on Forest Road 475B.

Trail Traffic: I encountered two other photographer hikers on the waterfall trail.

How to Get There: From Brevard, NC get on Scenic Hwy 276 west into Pisgah National Forest. After roughly 9 miles, turn left onto FR 475B (Headwaters Rd). Proceed to Case Ridge Gap, one mile down this gravel road. The beginning of the trail is marked by a set of steps across from a small parking area at FR 5041.

 

 

Before I started hiking, I went to another waterfall that is right along the side of Fish Hatchery Road (FR 475) in the national forest. It’s just a half mile past the hatchery in the bend of a sweeping left turn. There is a small pullout there with enough room for two cars. In all the many times I had driven past previously, I’d never noticed this small waterfall. It took seeing a photo on the Internet to entice me to see it for myself.

Known as Rockhouse Falls, it’s just down the bank on the right side of the road, no more than 25 yards away. Rockhouse Creek spills over this 6-foot slide just before it plunges through a culvert beneath the forest road. There are two nice places to view Rockhouse Falls one from the road bank, and the other from a cove that surrounds the plunge pool.

I noticed while I was there that a small trail continues into the forest along Rockhouse Creek. Being the curious Meanderthal that I am, I proceeded without trepidation. 50 yards later, the trail crosses the creek to a pretty nice campsite. The trail petered out another 50 yards beyond the campsite, but it certainly looked like you could follow the creek farther as it parallels the lower section of FR 475B.

As you can see, it was quite overcast on this day, nice conditions for waterfall pictures. Interesting how I never noticed Rockhouse Falls before when driving past. Now that I know it's there, I will make a point of looking.

As you can see, it was quite overcast on this day, nice conditions for waterfall pictures. Interesting how I never noticed Rockhouse Falls before when driving past. Now that I know it’s there, I will make a point of looking.

Satisfied now, I was ready for some hiking. The trail I had picked is just a few miles up Hwy 276, past Looking Glass Falls and Sliding Rock, and then a left turn on Forest Road 475B. It’s just one more mile then on 475B to the Case Camp Ridge trailhead. Meanderthals has hiked Case Camp Ridge before, but today I would only be on it for a brief little while. It’s just a quarter mile uphill mostly through a rhododendron tunnel to the junction with Seniard Ridge Trail.

Seniard Ridge Trail is an old logging road, so it’s quite a bit wider than Case Camp. After a half mile, there is a trail sign on the left for Seniard Ridge Trail. What? I was confused. I sure didn’t remember this the last time I was here. What I did remember was that Log Hollow Falls was on a road. So instead of following the sign, I continued straight ahead on the old logging road. Wrong.

I went perhaps another half mile, reached a campsite, and then the trail just ended. Hmm. I backtracked a ways to see if I missed a turn up the hill on the right. Nope. Well, I guess I need to go back to that trail sign. So I did, feeling both sheepish and disoriented. It worked out okay though, as things usually do. I got to see some baccharis halimifolia (groundsel) plants with the dandelion-like spores on full display, and there was a great view of Looking Glass Rock through the trees.

Now on the single track Seniard Ridge Trail, it loses all the elevation gained on Case Camp as it winds through dense hardwood forest. With fallen leaves covering the trail, it was difficult to see hazards, and I managed to roll my ankle stepping on a root buried beneath those leaves. Rather than making it worse by trying to catch myself, my brain made a split-second decision to take a controlled fall. So I rolled down to the ground, paused for a moment to see if I hurt anywhere, and decided it was only my ankle.

I rubbed it some, decided it was okay to stand, and tested it with a few steps. Slight discomfort, but good to continue. I pulled the laces extra tight and pressed onward. Soon after, I reached the junction with retired Forest Road 5043. There’s a big sign here about forest management and watershed, and a gate that prevents vehicles from entering this no-longer-used road. However, FR 5043 is the continuation of Seniard Ridge Trail, and the road that I remembered before. Aha!

As the largest single supplier of water in the nation, our National Forests and Grasslands are truly the headwaters of America. These lands provide reliable water supplies for more than 123 million Americans in nearly 1,000 U.S. cities. Forests act like a giant sponge as snowpack melts in the spring - providing a natural cleansing filter, replenishing underground aquifers, and regulating runoff to prevent floods and erosion and to ensure water flows during the later seasons of the year.

As the largest single supplier of water in the nation, our National Forests and Grasslands are truly the headwaters of America. These lands provide reliable water supplies for more than 123 million Americans in nearly 1,000 U.S. cities.
Forests act like a giant sponge as snowpack melts in the spring – providing a natural cleansing filter, replenishing underground aquifers, and regulating runoff to prevent floods and erosion and to ensure water flows during the later seasons of the year.

If you want to take the short, half mile trip to Log Hollow Falls rather than getting lost and rolling your ankle like I did then you can continue down FR 475B in your car another mile past FR 5041 to this junction with FR 5043. There’s enough room to park 2-3 cars. From here it’s flat and easy going. You cross one footbridge after a quarter mile and then reach a 2nd a quarter mile later. I passed a couple guys carrying cameras and tripods, and nodded acknowledgement that they were here for the same reason I was.

The second foot bridge crosses Log Hollow Branch and to your right is the falls. There is a short spur trail that goes near the base of the falls for closeup views. I wasn’t satisfied though, as you can get even closer by crossing the creek. I looked around for the most advantageous spot to do so. You would think by now I would have learned a lesson with the twisted ankle, but noooo, I had to cross a creek on slippery rocks and logs just to get a picture.

I made it safely, and was glad I did. The photo at the top of this post is the one I thought I could get from the other side. Click it for a larger image. It was extremely moist at the base of the 25′ waterfall, prime growing territory for fungus and moss. I stayed for 15 minutes, munching on a snack, and enjoying the solitary serenity. When I got back to the junction, I just walked up FR 475B to my car to complete the loop.

You can continue beyond Log Hollow Falls to another waterfall just a short quarter mile later, and if you’re really adventurous, Seniard Ridge Trail goes all the way to the Blue Ridge Parkway. It’s a strenuous hike, following the ridge, but quite rewarding with fabulous views overlooking the bulk of Pisgah Ranger District.

 

 

Updated September 15, 2017

Time for another visit to picturesque Log Hollow Falls. Water flow was up following the recent visit by Hurricane Irma, but she also brought with her high wind that put some more trees down in the creek in front of the waterfall.

The wildflowers were still going strong with lobelia, goldenrod, self heal, coreopsis and asters in abundance. I explored a couple of the spur trails that follow the branches up the drainage looking for future adventures, and I simply savored a lovely day in Pisgah Forest. What’s not to like?

Enjoy the new photos. Please feel free to leave your comments or questions below.

 

 

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

 

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Davidson River Trail, Pisgah National Forest https://internetbrothers.org/2014/05/18/davidson-river-trail-pisgah-national-forest/ https://internetbrothers.org/2014/05/18/davidson-river-trail-pisgah-national-forest/#respond Sun, 18 May 2014 14:21:49 +0000 http://internetbrothers.org/?p=10989

his short, little trail from Cove Creek to the State Fish Hatchery is often overlooked, but it will take you to some of the most gnarly whitewater on Davidson River. The trail is simple. It’s just a straight 1.1 mile shot from one end to the other, and then back. Ah, but have you ever […]]]>

This short, little trail from Cove Creek to the State Fish Hatchery is often overlooked, but it will take you to some of the most gnarly whitewater on Davidson River. The trail is simple. It’s just a straight 1.1 mile shot from one end to the other, and then back. Ah, but have you ever seen a two-tiered trail? If you promise to be very, very careful on the river bank, I will tell you more about the Davidson River Trail. My brother and I hiked this trail on Saturday, May 10, 2014 beginning at 10:00AM and ending about 11:30AM. Our plan was to see what there was to see on the Davidson River Trail. We got a lot more than expected.

Hike Length: 2.2 miles Hike Duration: 1.5 hours

Blaze: Blue Hike Rating: Moderate. Easy trail, dangerous river bank.

Elevation Gain: 100 feet Hike Configuration: Out and back

Trail Condition: Upper trail – Excellent. Lower trail – poor and dangerous.

Starting Point: Parking pullout along FR 475 at Cove Creek Campground entrance.

Trail Traffic: We were the only ones on the trail.

How to Get There: From Brevard, NC get on Scenic Hwy 276 west into Pisgah National Forest. Go 5.2 miles, then turn left onto Forest Road 475. Go 2.5 miles to parking for the Cove Creek Group Camp. The trailhead is on the left.

 

It was a cloudy, overcast day with a 50/50 chance of showers. Perfect for creek pictures, we thought. My brother made his annual pilgrimage from Colorado to WNC at the perfect time to see the greening of Pisgah National Forest. Our first stop was the obligatory visit to Looking Glass Falls. No trip to Davidson River is complete without it. Just a short quarter mile up Hwy 276 from the river, everyone who comes to Pisgah has to stop there. It’s written in the outdoors code.

Every time I had been to the trails at Cove Creek Group Camp, I had noticed this somewhat hidden trailhead just up the road about 50 feet from the parking area. Finally, today was the day to check it out. The trailhead marker said it is called Davidson River Trail, so we thought maybe an easy stroll along the river bank as it meandered its way downstream.

We had the easy stroll part right. It’s a gravel track that is very flat, and it does follow the river, but… it’s located about 50-70 feet above the level of the river so you can’t see much. Darn, we said, we sure would like to be down there. We could hear the loud rushing sound of some very serious whitewater down below, but the ravine here is very steep. There isn’t really any good way to get from here to there.

We rounded one small curve and got a nice view of John Rock standing guard above the Fish Hatchery and Education Center. And so it was, a major disappointment. At least it was only a mile. Little did we know that our fortune was about to change. On the way back we noticed there was another dirt tread trail that paralleled the gravel trail we were on. It was 30-40 feet lower, and only about 20 feet above river level. Aha! There’s the ticket.

So when we got back to the trailhead we looked for the access to this lower trail. It’s only about 10-15 yards beyond the trail sign at the road. And wow! Right off the bat we were treated to a fierce cascade where Cove Creek poured into Davidson River.

Warning! OK. Before I go any further, it’s time to remind you how dangerous wet, algae covered granite is. Believe me it is slick! No fancy Gryptonite hiking shoes are going to protect you from slipping, cracking your head open, and washing up among the trout a mile down river. Suction cups? Not even. This is nasty, nasty perilous stuff. The granite river bank even cants downward toward the water making it doubly lubricious.

Now that you’ve been warned, I will tell you that the next half mile along Davidson River is some of the prettiest and most rugged rapids around. It even rivals the Green River. All these years hiking near the Fish Hatchery and I hadn’t a clue.

The lower-tier trail is nothing like the groomed gravel trail above. This was probably the original trail, and it has now been abandoned. No longer maintained, much of it is eroding into the river, is covered with exposed roots, and is generally in very poor condition. It too is still 20 feet above river level, so when you see a spot you want to explore, it’s scrambling through rhododendron and dog hobble thickets and who knows what else.

One particularly egregious place that I simply HAD to see took me five minutes to wallow my way through muck and mire just to get the photo you see at the top of this post. What in the world was this 60-something year old thinking? Well, if you’re gonna be dumb, you better be tough. It’s the Meanderthals way.

The good news is, my brother and I survived without any slips or falls and live to hike another day. Please, if you try this trail, you do the same. Enjoy the pictures!

 

 

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

 

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Funneltop Mountain and Squirrel Gap to South Mills River, Pisgah National Forest https://internetbrothers.org/2013/04/06/funneltop-mountain-and-squirrel-gap-to-south-mills-river-pisgah-national-forest/ https://internetbrothers.org/2013/04/06/funneltop-mountain-and-squirrel-gap-to-south-mills-river-pisgah-national-forest/#comments Sat, 06 Apr 2013 19:11:41 +0000 http://internetbrothers.org/?p=6887

outheast of the Cradle of Forestry National Historical Site is a remote area of Pisgah National Forest with trails that will take you along ridge lines with views of the Blue Ridge Parkway and Looking Glass Rock, then follow creeks and streams as they tumble down the mountains to the western end of South Mills […]]]>

Southeast of the Cradle of Forestry National Historical Site is a remote area of Pisgah National Forest with trails that will take you along ridge lines with views of the Blue Ridge Parkway and Looking Glass Rock, then follow creeks and streams as they tumble down the mountains to the western end of South Mills River. You will encounter names like Squirrel Gap, Glady Branch, and Otter Hole as you traverse this long, but not particularly difficult loop. There’s something for everyone with long distance vistas, beautiful forest, and plenty of mountain water features. This hike occurred on Tuesday, April 2, 2013 from 9:20am to 2:35pm. Our plan was to take Funneltop Mountain Trail to Horse Cove Gap Trail, then join Squirrel Gap Trail as it descends to South Mills River. The loop would be completed on the South Mills River Trail.

Hike Length: 12.8 miles Hike Duration: 5.25 hours Hike Configuration: Loop

Hike Rating: Moderate, but long Blaze: Orange, blue, white

Elevation Gain: 1,370 feet Elevation Change: 910 feet

Trail Condition: Very good. Some creek crossings on Squirrel Gap Trail.

Starting Point: Funneltop Mountain Trailhead on Forest Road 476.

Trail Traffic: We did not encounter any other hikers on this day.

How to Get There: From the Brevard, NC junction of Hwys 64/276 take US 276 into Pisgah National Forest 11 miles. Turn right on Forest Road 1206 (Yellow Gap Road). Proceed approximately 3¼ miles to Forest Road 476 and turn right; Funneltop Mountain Trailhead is 0.7 mile on the left. Park at the campsites.

 

At nearly 13 miles, this one is longer than most day hikes that we do, but the area in Pisgah National Forest to be explored is so remote that you pretty much have to hike that far to make a loop of it. In reality these trails are ideally suited for mountain bikers, but we still had a great time on the ridge, in the forest, and following the river on foot.

Not far past the Forest Discovery Center on Hwy 276, Forest Road 1206 (Yellow Gap Rd.) takes off into the heart of the national forest. A bit more than three miles in, look for FR 476 on the right. On some maps this is known as South Mills River Road, on other maps as Wolf Ford Road. Less than a mile is the junction with Funneltop Mountain Trail.

Really more of an old forest road than a trail, numbered 5018, this grassy double track begins a gradual climb up Funneltop Mtn. right from the start. You’ll be on this road for 3.9 miles, so even just an out and back would be a nice lengthy hike. You’ll skirt the southern shoulder of Funneltop as you rise about 600 feet over those four miles. After the first mile, mile and a half, the trail tops the ridge and offers great views to the south and west.

The first thing you’ll notice is the ribbon that is the Blue Ridge Parkway stretched out on its own ridge about 4-5 miles away. There is a clear view of the Pisgah Inn, perched at the base of the tower-topped Mt. Pisgah.

My companion is an avid biker in addition to his passion for hiking, and he was trying to talk me into trying out the hobby. Were I to take it up, this is the kind of trail/road I’d want to ride very smooth and grassy, only moderate ups and downs, and picturesque vistas of the surrounding Blue Ridge. I broke it to him gently that my brother has been trying to talk me into mountain biking for nearly 30 years without success. I just prefer walking I guess.

The trail continues along this ridge for another two miles, turning casually to the east. Roughly three miles in, you’ll find the best overlook, with Looking Glass Rock to the southwest peering out from behind Clawhammer and Coontree Mountains. More directly west are the impressive 6000′ mountains in the Shining Rock Wilderness beyond the Parkway.

There’s one final, modest climb before reaching the dead end of Funneltop Mountain Trail. Here you will enter the forest, and find the Horse Cove Gap Trail marker on your right. You’re onto single track trail now as this orange-blazed connector path begins a descent to Horse Cove and Squirrel Gaps. On foot, there’s really nothing remarkable about this 0.7 mile trail, it’s merely a means of connecting with Squirrel Gap Trail. For the bikers, there are a few switchbacks and jumps to get your adrenaline pumping.

Mountain Laurel on Squirrel Gap Trail

You can go west or north on Squirrel Gap Trail. The northern route eventually connects with the Turkeypen area of the national forest. On this day, however, we were heading west, and far, far away from any forest roads or other avenues of access. You might want to check your energy level at this point because you need to decide if you can make the entire 13 mile loop. This is the place to turn back if you have any doubts, and it’s still 4.6 miles back the way you came. So 4.6 miles back, or another 8.2 miles forward.

We had our lunch while conducting this debate with ourselves. There was another potential hazard to consider for us as well. We knew that we would have to cross South Mills River at the end of Squirrel Gap Trail. What we didn’t know was whether there was a bridge. We don’t mind river crossings, in fact, we had a great hike wading through this same river awhile back. That was summer. On this early spring day the air temp was about 42°F.

Taking inventory of our food and water supplies, we were good in that regard. We both still felt strong, as well as nourished after lunch. And, after much discussion, we also decided that if need be we were willing to strip down to bear feet and legs and ford icy-cold South Mills River. After all, we are Meanderthals. Onward it was.

Squirrel Gap is a beautiful forested trail with blue blaze markings, lined with mountain laurel that was doing its spring thing and beginning to green nicely. The trail has a gradual decline as it meanders through locust and poplar, birch and of course, the ubiquitous rhododendron. With the late spring, still no buds on the trees though. We crossed several small, trickling mountain streams as we entered the watershed.

Upon reaching Squirrel Gap after about a mile, the trail joins Glady Branch, a larger stream that eventually feeds South Mills River. There are four crossings of Glady Branch that I recall, including one where you will rock and log hop about 10 yards to pick up the trail downstream. No sweat, unless it’s right after a heavy rain.

The total length of Squirrel Gap Trail from Horse Cove Gap to South Mills River is a bit over two miles. Near the end, the trail begins a series of switchbacks as it descends the watershed to river level. My friend was the first to see it. A BRIDGE! YAY! No freezing the tootsies for us. At river level there’s a nice flat bottom-land area with a few primitive campsites and a canopy of trees to protect from wind and rain. It would be a welcome, secluded spot for camping, but remember, it’s about 6-7 miles from the nearest access roads in either direction.

The wooden suspension bridge was constructed by the Youth Conservation Corps as a summer project in 1980, and sure was a relief for us. Youth Conservation Corps (YCC) began in 1974 as a program for high school teens that combined hands-on conservation work on public lands with environmental education. Federal support for the program terminated in 1981, but several state conservation groups have taken up the mantle since. In fact, North Carolina announced just this week that they are seeking applicants.

After pausing a few minutes to celebrate and take some photos, we crossed the swinging bridge and picked up the white blaze of the South Mills River Trail on the other side. You will climb moderately out of the river basin, then make a switchback to the west as the trail begins a snake-like winding up Grassy Ridge for the next mile. It’s easy going. I tend to tire when climbing, but even after eight miles I could handle this incline with no problem. Speaking of snakes, we encountered our first of the new season, a pair enjoying the warmth of the sun in the middle of the trail. You’ll come to a junction with the Buckhorn Gap Trail on your left at Grassy Ridge. Stay on South Mills River Trail.

Crossing South Mills River

For me, the highlight of this hike is the last 3-4 miles along South Mills River. Once you top out at Grassy Ridge, the trail picks up the river again on your right, as both take a sharp turn northward. A quarter mile later, you’ll cross on a concrete bridge at Billy Branch, a scenic spot where the creek spills into the river. There’s a small pool about 3-feet-deep beneath the bridge that would make a refreshing swimming hole in the summer.

With the river now on your left, you’ll pass babbling and gurgling whitewater with easy access from the trail. There are huge boulders in the river to sun on, and the rush of wild water that fills the forest, and your senses. Breathe. Inhale. Exhale.

The next feature has the fanciful name Otter Hole. It’s a large pool totaling more than a half acre that is fed by a small slide waterfall. Surrounded by 50-foot tall gorgeous, but dying, hemlock trees, I imagine this to be a hugely popular spot with the teens during hot weather months. Shoot, if you’re hiking here in July, you should at least dip your toes. C’mon you know you want to.

The trail continues along the river for another half mile before reaching its end at the southern terminus of Forest Road 476. Here the river takes a decidedly westward turn and heads to Pink Beds. There is a large parking area with room for at least a dozen cars, as well as a handful of campsites for those who like their car-camping a little closer to civilization.

The final three-quarters mile to complete the loop of this hike is on FR 476 back to the junction with Funneltop Mountain Trail (5018).

To summarize, this is a long loop. Be prepared to allocate at least five hours to complete. We didn’t dawdle much at all, and it still took us 5.25 hours. I thoroughly enjoyed myself, but I doubt I’ll do the whole thing again as a day hike. However, it would be a terrific mountain bike ride, combining double and single track riding with plenty of sharp curves, creek crossings, and jumps for excitement.

Either end of this loop offers opportunity for very nice shorter hikes that may be just what you’re looking for. If you just take Funneltop Mountain Trail up and back, you’re looking at nearly eight miles with fantastic views of the Blue Ridge Parkway and Looking Glass Rock. If you drive on FR 476 past 5018 and all the way to the end, it’s a short half mile hike along the river to Otter Hole, or beyond to Billy Branch. If you get really adventurous, you could continue all the way to the suspension bridge, then return, a total of about nine miles.

 

 

Update January 30, 2015: We ventured out for a mid-winter visit to this long and glorious loop. We made it as far as the Horse Cove Gap junction where we stopped for lunch and watched a squall blow in out of nowhere. There really wasn’t any weather in the forecast, but you just never know what might happen in the mountains. We hurried to put away our unfinished food and quickly get out the rain gear. Just in time, because in a matter of moments it started with a cold, driving rain that quickly turned to sleet.

Thinking about where we were, it was four miles back the way we came, or eight miles to continue the loop. The sky looked pretty ominous so we chose to forego the most scenic part of the loop and hustle back to the car. The sleet eventually changed to half-dollar sized snowflakes for a couple minutes, and then back to rain. In total, the squall lasted about 20 minutes. By then, we were a third of the way off the mountain. Wouldn’t you know it, by the time we got back to the car, it was sunshine, blue sky, and puffy white clouds.

Here are a few more photos from our aborted attempt:

 

Update September 4, 2017: Ken and I enjoyed the South Mills River Trail off Forest Road 476 on Labor Day 2017. Pisgah National Forest was pretty busy with campers, picnickers and other recreationists, but this trail wasn’t overcrowded. We saw perhaps half a dozen others on our 9-mile round trip to the suspension bridge.

We trekked in a counter-clockwise direction for a change, starting at the trailhead at the dead end of FR 476, following South Mills River, passing by the junction with Buckhorn Gap Trail, and continuing on to the swinging bridge over the river. We enjoyed lunch on a log at one of the campsites, then returned the way we came.

Here are a few more photos of what we found along the way.

 

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

 

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Cat Gap Loop to Cedar Rock, Pisgah National Forest https://internetbrothers.org/2013/03/31/cat-gap-loop-to-cedar-rock-pisgah-national-forest/ https://internetbrothers.org/2013/03/31/cat-gap-loop-to-cedar-rock-pisgah-national-forest/#respond Sun, 31 Mar 2013 16:31:57 +0000 http://internetbrothers.org/?p=6793

edar Rock is one of several granite pluton monoliths found in the Davidson River area of Pisgah National Forest. More difficult to get to than its nearby brethren, Looking Glass and John Rock, Cedar Rock has outstanding long distance views from both the east and west sides of its summit. You will have to work […]]]>

Cedar Rock is one of several granite pluton monoliths found in the Davidson River area of Pisgah National Forest. More difficult to get to than its nearby brethren, Looking Glass and John Rock, Cedar Rock has outstanding long distance views from both the east and west sides of its summit. You will have to work to get there, climbing nearly 1,700 feet from the valley floor at the Pisgah Center for Wildlife Education, but the end result is well worth the effort. You’ll see two states and four counties, 6000′ mountain peaks, stunning granite cliffs and the Blue Ridge Parkway. This hike occurred on Wednesday, March 27, 2013 from 10:15am to 4:00pm. Our plan was to take the western branch of Cat Gap Trail up Cedar Rock Creek to Cat Gap where we would get on the Art Loeb Trail to Cedar Rock. There is a somewhat secretive trail up Cedar Rock from the north, then back down the south side. We would return on the Art Loeb to Cat Gap, then back down the eastern side of the Cat Gap Loop through Horse Cove.

Hike Length: 10 miles Hike Duration: 5.75 hours Hike Configuration: Figure 8

Hike Rating: Difficult, very strenuous Blaze: Orange, white, blue

Elevation Gain: 2,340 feet Elevation Change: 1,680 feet

Trail Condition: Cat Gap and Art Loeb very good. Summit trail rough.

Starting Point: Pisgah Center for Wildlife Education on Forest Road 475.

Trail Traffic: We met two other hikers on this mid-week trek.

How to Get There: From Brevard, NC get onto Scenic Hwy 276 west into Pisgah National Forest. Go 5.2 miles, then turn left onto Forest Road 475. After a mile, turn left into the State Fish Hatchery and Wildlife Center. The trailhead is at the west end of the parking area.

 

Roughly the first mile of this hike is the same as the one I did just last week, Cat Gap Trail to Cedar Rock Falls and Long Branch. Rather than repeat, I will pick up where to two trails diverge. One of my regular partners was back with me this time. When we reached the Cat Gap Trail and Butter Gap Trail junction, this time we took a left turn across Cedar Rock Creek and stayed on orange blazed Cat Gap, instead of going right on Butter Gap like last week.

After crossing, we followed Cedar Rock Creek through the forest to a small opening with a view of our eventual destination, Cedar Rock. From here, it looked far, far away, and plenty high. We had our work cut out for us. The trail enters a small, beautiful white pine forest. The forest floor is a bed of fallen red needles that have cushioned the earth for season after season. It’s a delight to enter these stands of evergreen woods. They are found throughout Pisgah National Forest, ranging from spruce to fir to black balsam and pine. The aromas are glorious.

The trail crosses the creek one more time, this time without the aid of a bridge, and then begins its steady climb up the northern shoulder of Cedar Rock to Cat Gap in earnest. There are a number of switchbacks to ease the strain, but it will get your attention. The trail will change direction to decidedly eastward for about a quarter mile, then turn back to the south again. This area is a floral delight in spring as it is lined with rhododendron, dog hobble and mountain laurel, galax and ground cedar.

Approximately a mile after the last creek crossing you will come to a junction with the Cat Gap Connector Trail. Here, you can take either trail to get where you want to go. I prefer staying on the Cat Gap Loop Trail because I think the climb is just a bit more moderate. So we took a right turn to stay on the loop trail.

You will continue upward in a southerly direction through a forest of locust and birch, oak and poplar. It is so different during the various seasons. In the cold weather months, there are views through the leafless forest of the surrounding mountains. During the green seasons, the forest provides a canopy to shield you from the sun and wind. It is cool, full of aviary activity, and replete with the scents and perfumes of the woods.

The trail takes another easterly turn and levels off as it makes the final push to Cat Gap. The gap itself is really not much more than a joining of trails. The Cat Gap Loop comes in from the east and the west. A trail that doesn’t appear on national forest maps but heads to Burl Mountain comes to Cat Gap, and the Art Loeb Trail crosses here. Art Loeb is our next path to Cedar Rock.

Pine Forest on Cat Gap Trail

Get yourself ready for some strenuous climbing while you’re resting at Cat Gap. First, the Art Loeb climbs several hundred feet, then the Cedar Rock summit trail adds another several hundred to that. The good news? The scenery is spectacular, so don’t cheat yourself by letting the required exertion deter you. Just take your time, pause for short breathers, and set your own pace.

The Art Loeb Trail has white blaze markings as it climbs for ½ to ¾ mile to Sandy Gap, all the while offering a terrific view of Looking Glass Rock off to the north, and the many 5000-6000 foot peaks beyond. For the first time, we noticed those peaks were snow covered. There has been almost no snow in Western North Carolina this winter, so the white tops of Black Balsam Knob, Grassy Cove Top and Mt. Hardy were a delightful surprise. Made me yearn for the high country.

You will reach a plateau at Sandy Gap that has the best views from the trail. However, during green seasons, don’t expect to be able to see through the leafless trees. Among the many advantages of cold weather hiking are the added vista opportunities. Soon after topping this plateau, the Art Loeb Trail heads down the other side.

The summit trail to Cedar Rock has somewhat of a legend in hiking communities of being secret and not publicized. Apparently, it was a formerly maintained trail that was retired by the Forest Service because of the danger of falling from the cliffs on the pluton summit. There have been a number of deaths, or at least so I am told. Therefore, I don’t intend to break any unwritten codes by detailing exactly where the trailhead is. Having said that, though, there is information on the Internet about the trail. Just do a little search homework.

This summit trail isn’t especially long, but it is steep. It took us perhaps 15 minutes to climb to the top, with plenty of 30 second rests to suck air. Once you reach the top, though, you will know it. The summit is a long, relatively rounded cone shape with paths to the rock edges of both the east and west faces of this monolith. There is a large campsite and fire pit in the center at the capstone.

Our timing was great. That empty feeling in the pit of my stomach said that lunch was on the agenda, along with a well-deserved rest on the east face of Cedar Rock. Look for the spur paths to the granite surfaces but be very, very careful. I mentioned there hasn’t been much snow in WNC this winter, but what there has been is freezing cold even this late into March, including earlier on this morning. Even past noon, the granite still had large sheaths of ice that made for treacherous footing and an increased risk of falling. If you come up here in winter, watch very carefully for ice. It is sometimes difficult to see.

We found a great spot to sit with a view directly east and south. From here we could see the landmarks of DuPont State Forest directly in front of us. Brevard is just on the backside of Burl Mountain. Far beyond DuPont is Upstate South Carolina and the state parks that hang on the Blue Ridge Escarpment. Somewhere unseen, a few hundred feet below us, the Art Loeb Trail curls along the base of this massive granite wall.

Renourished, it was now time to explore the west face of Cedar Rock. The rock climbers love the west side. Returning to the center cone, we looked for a path to the other edge. The west side is covered with rhododendron thickets, so be prepared to sweep the low hanging branches out of your way as you follow a maze of paths toward the precipice. Look for orange ribbons hanging on the branches. Those have been placed by the climbing clubs to help lead you to strategic entry onto the west face.

I will repeat, be very, very careful. This west face is steeper and smaller. You can see pitons hammered into the rock by long-ago climbers. There was even more ice on this side, with fewer places to stand safely. In summer it might be different, but keep the ice in mind if you’re up here during cold weather months. Frankly, I didn’t feel very comfortable at all, so I snapped a few photos and got off the edge quickly before I made a mis-step.

Returning to the campsite at the central cone area, it was time to head off the south side of Cedar Rock. We noticed as we began our descent a number of blue ribbons tied to low-level branches. Perhaps a local hiking club has convinced the Forest Service to recommission this trail. Though not wide at all, it is in fairly good shape and easy to follow. We discovered a bit later why there may still be some reluctance to attract a lot of traffic to this trail.

Stone Mountain from Cedar Rock

Continuing steeply down the south side, every hundred yards or so we would come to another exposed granite ledge that had to be traversed. Remember the ice issue? Fortunately, these ledges receive south-side sun, so by mid-afternoon most of the ice was now trickling water. But if you’re up here on a cold, cold early morning expect these ledges on the southeastern descent to be extremely dangerous.

One of these ledges was especially scenic, and… what? What is that? Is that… is that a CEDAR TREE!!! YES!!! OMG!!! The smell is absolutely heavenly. Cedar Rock? Cedar tree? Made me wonder if there were hundreds on this pluton when man first came here, but I digress. I couldn’t get enough of the wonderful scent.

The granite ledge here curls around the southern tip and has a great view across Butter Gap to Stone Mountain, another with a large granite wall. Far in the distance behind Stone Mountain is Brushy Ridge, then further west to Nantahala National Forest.

The south side of Cedar Rock descends further than the north side climbs, so when you eventually get back to the Art Loeb Trail, you have to climb back up quite a way to return to Sandy Gap. You can continue southward to Butter Gap, but for this hike, we wanted to finish the other side of Cat Gap Loop. It is a fabulous journey north, as the Art Loeb parallels the gigantic eastern face of Cedar Rock. I am always struck by the number of narrow channels grooved into the rock by millenia upon millenia of water running down the side.

You’re about half way up the climb when you come upon a series of extremely large, extremely dead hemlocks. One in particular has a trunk with a diameter of at least four feet. At the top of the climb is a campsite on the left at the base of the granite. The pitch of the rock here is at a small enough angle that you can climb up the face on all fours a hundred feet or so, without the assist of ropes or other climbing gear. Last time I was here, I found a perch up there for lunch.

You’ll continue northward along a dry creek bed until you eventually reach the connection with the northern summit trail. From there it’s simply a matter of returning over Sandy Gap to Cat Gap.

Since we came up the west side of Cat Gap Loop, it certainly made sense to go back down the east side of the loop from Cat Gap. Look to your right for the descending northerly trail. Don’t accidently get on the unnamed trail that heads south toward Burl Mountain. You go down, down, down about a quarter mile to another major trail junction. This is where the Cat Gap Connector comes in from the west to meet the Cat Gap Loop, and also the John Rock Trail comes in from the north. We took Cat Gap Loop east.

This is an absolutely beautiful forest with many poplars standing close to a hundred feet tall. This stretch of the trail is really stunning during the green season when the forest canopy allows limited light to reach the forest floor. You will cross a number of small streams tumbling down from the mountains above, some with log bridges, others with rock hops.

About half way down, you’ll pass the other end of the trail to John Rock. My companion and I gave each other an inquisitive quick glance when we passed by. The answer on both our faces said, not today.

Next is the crossing of Forest Road 5017, otherwise known as Horse Cove Road. You have a choice here. You can continue to follow Cat Gap Trail all the way back to the east end of the Wildlife Center parking, or you can take the forest road that comes out on the west end of the parking lot. The trail is obviously more scenic, following Horse Cove Creek to Davidson River, but the road is just a little bit quicker. With nearly ten miles and more than five hours on our feet, we opted for quick.

In conclusion, this is a terrific hike with outstanding views from the summit of Cedar Rock. It is hard. You will work for the opportunity to see what the ledges on Cedar Rock offer. You truly get a feel for the lay of the land in Pisgah National Forest when standing on Cedar Rock, but the trails aren’t limited to long-distance vistas. The combination of evergreen, hardwood and laurel forests as well as the many creeks and streams that rush off the mountains above make this a full-featured hike. I highly recommend it.

 

 

Update May 1, 2014: We revisited this scenic hike to Cedar Rock and even combined it with the Butter Gap and Picklesimer Fields hike to make for a nice large loop. The weather cooperated beautifully for a delightful springtime stroll among the plutons in the Davidson River area. See below for another GPS track as well as some new pictures.

 

 

 

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

 

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Mountains to Sea Trail Over Green Knob, Blue Ridge Parkway https://internetbrothers.org/2013/01/06/mountains-to-sea-trail-over-green-knob-blue-ridge-parkway/ https://internetbrothers.org/2013/01/06/mountains-to-sea-trail-over-green-knob-blue-ridge-parkway/#comments Sun, 06 Jan 2013 18:15:21 +0000 http://internetbrothers.org/?p=4926

uite frequently in winter, the Blue Ridge Parkway will be closed for snow and ice. Not great fun for those who wish to drive along the beautiful ridges. Ah — but it’s the perfect time for hikers to get out on the trails that parallel the Parkway — like the Mountains to Sea. Between Pigeon […]]]>

Quite frequently in winter, the Blue Ridge Parkway will be closed for snow and ice. Not great fun for those who wish to drive along the beautiful ridges. Ah but it’s the perfect time for hikers to get out on the trails that parallel the Parkway like the Mountains to Sea. Between Pigeon Gap and Bennett Gap at miles 412-414 the Mountains to Sea Trail traverses a ridge that crosses Green Knob, a 5,000 footer that splits Haywood and Transylvania counties. South of Green Knob is the Parkway itself, as well as the Cradle of Forestry and Looking Glass Rock. To the north is the full expanse of Shining Rock Wilderness and the majestic Cold Mountain. The leafless trees of winter enable magnificent views on both sides of the ridge. This hike occurred on Wednesday, January 2, 2013 from 10:00am to 1:05pm. Our plan was to walk the closed Blue Ridge Parkway from Hwy 276 to Pigeon Gap, then hop on the Mountains to Sea Trail up and over Green Knob to Bennett Gap, completing the loop by returning on the Parkway.

Hike Length: 6 miles Hike Duration: 3 hours Blaze: White

Hike Rating: Moderate Hike Configuration: Loop, including the BRP.

Elevation Gain: 915 feet Trail Condition: Excellent; quite scenic.

Starting Point: Cold Mountain Overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Trail Traffic: We had the trail and the Parkway all to ourselves.

How to Get There: From Brevard, NC take Hwy. 276 into Pisgah National Forest, and all the way to the top at Wagon Road Gap where it meets the Blue Ridge Parkway at milepost 412. Turn south on the parkway toward Cherokee and go 100 yards to the Cold Mountain Overlook parking area.

 

It’s fun to walk on the Blue Ridge Parkway knowing there won’t be any cars or motorcycles coming. Not to mention how much quieter it is. On this day my companion and I headed up Hwy 276 to the Pisgah Ridge to do some parkway hiking. The Mountains to Sea Trail follows the Parkway nearly all the way from Great Smoky Mountains National Park to the Asheville corridor and beyond. So you can almost always find a short hike anywhere you are on the Parkway. I encourage the car tourists to get off the road at least once each day and hop on a trail.

We walked about half a mile from the Cold Mountain Overlook at milepost 412 to a spot at Pigeon Gap where the Mountains to Sea Trail (MtS) crosses the Parkway. We entered the trail on the west side, heading in a southerly direction. It was an extremely foggy day, so when we entered the forest it was murky and damp. My friend commented it was like an enchanted forest may be just around the bend past the misty fog.

After a few hundred yards the trail begins a moderate climb up Green Knob. There are switchbacks that wind around rocky outcrops to make the ascent easier. To our right (west) we could hear the far away sound of rushing water from Big East the East Fork of Pigeon River in the valley below. We knew Cold Mountain stood over there on the other side, but we were shrouded in fog.

The higher we got, though, the clearer it became. We entered a layer between clouds. They were above us, and below us. By the time we reached the top of the ridge 600 feet above where we started, we had a window through which to view the skylines. To the southeast, the sun was creating a sunset-like effect with an orange glow on the horizon. The valley below was completely obscured by clouds, as was the sun by another higher cloud layer.

We continued following the ridge southward until we reached a spur trail that headed to the west. Neither of us had been on this stretch of the MtS before, and this spur isn’t on the map, so we went exploring. We could now see the peak of Cold Mountain in the distance, again between cloud layers. The spur trail followed a game lands boundary, and after a quarter mile actually entered Shining Rock Wilderness. Once the trail began a steep descent toward Big East, we said that was enough and turned back. At one time this was a marked trail because we saw some very old, faint red blaze paint.

Returning to the Mountain to Sea Trail, we resumed the gradual climb to the Green Knob summit. The ridge narrows at the summit, no more than 30 feet wide, so there are picturesque views on each side. On the left (east) is the Cradle of Forestry and Looking Glass Rock (unfortunately covered in clouds for us), and on the right (west) is Shining Rock Wilderness and the Black Balsam area. The sixers at Black Balsam were tall enough to poke above the lower cloud layer.

This looked like a great spot for lunch, so we took off our packs, pulled out soup, sandwich and map, and enjoyed the unusual cloud inversion that we’ve encountered twice in our last three hikes. The map was useful to tell us what we might see on a clear day. We also concluded that winter was a good time to take this trail because the leafless trees enabled long distance views that would not otherwise be available.

Foggy Mountains to Sea Trail

We could see the Blue Ridge Parkway directly below us, about 300 feet over the edge, and then heard the sounds of a vehicle. As quiet as it had been that surprised us. Turned out to be a Parkway maintenace pickup truck with a snow plow just scouting the road for any signs of accumulation. As we would discover later, he totally ignored other fallen rock and ice debris.

After a rest and some nourishment we continued along the ridge. The forest on top is simply beautiful, gnarly oaks and beech with lichens growing on the trunks in shades of mint and olive green. That’s the picture at the top of this post. Click on it for a larger image. As you can see, the trail itself is grassy and cushioned, a delightful stroll through the friendly woods. The sun even popped out… but just for a couple minutes.

Not far past the Green Knob summit is an outcrop known as Penny Rock. This is the only clear view, unobstructed by trees, of the scene to the east and south. Hard to know on the day we were there because of the cloud cover, but I suspect there are remarkable long views of the Black Mountains 40 miles east, as well as all the towns and villages between. I know that Looking Glass Rock is there, and Cedar Rock, and Pilot Mountain. The landmarks are numerous.

The descent on the south side of Green Knob is more gradual than the climb. It winds casually through the hardwood with one steep switchback. All the while the Parkway is just to your left, but delightfully quiet in its closed status. The trail spills onto the Parkway at Bennett Gap, milepost 414.5.

It’s all uphill on the Parkway for the next mile and a half until you get to the Pounding Mill Overlook. My hiking companion also rides bicycles on the Parkway and says this incline will test your resolve. There are steeper pulls, but this one just keeps going up and up and up. Because there are no other overlooks before Pounding Mill, this is a stretch of road with views that aren’t normally seen when trapped in a car. Another great reason for walking the Parkway when it’s closed.

Fryingpan Mountain Through the Fog

As we approached the hairpin curve that is the Pounding Mill Overlook, we could hear loud pops and cracks on the cliff face above. Unsure if it was another maintenance vehicle, wildlife or what, we kept our eyes peeled as we neared the turn. Then we saw why. There were broken off pieces of granite and ice lying in the middle of the road, another reason the Park Service is wise to close this byway under winter conditions.

My hiking friends and I volunteer for the National Park Service in their Adopt an Overlook program. It just so happens that Pounding Mill is ours. Since the maintenance truck we had seen earlier apparently passed right by the fallen rock and ice, or maybe it fell since he went by, we did our volunteer thing and moved all the debris to the side of the road. As we were finishing up our hike a half hour later, we noticed the pickup truck coming back the other direction. Perhaps when he reached Pounding Mill he wondered what in the world happened to that downed rock.

On the north side of the overlook the Parkway begins descending toward Pigeon Gap. As we approached there was a large fog bank wafting through the gap. Just barely peaking out through the fog was the fire tower on top of Fryingpan Mountain. It’s one of those landmarks you come to recognize when you spend a lot of time on this stretch of the Parkway.

As we walked through the gap, there was the entrance to the Mountains to Sea Trail that we took on our way south, and then the final half mile back to the Cold Mountain Overlook. The clouds had cleared just enough to capture one last photo of the peak of Cold Mountain.

If you’re looking for a shortish hike of three hours or less that will give you some exercise and offer exceptional views of the surrounding Blue Ridge and wilderness areas, then this hike on the Mountains to Sea Trail over Green Knob may be just the ticket. Obviously, you don’t have to wait until the Parkway is closed to try it, but there is a certain serenity in the high country without the sound of vehicles. To access the trailhead when the Parkway is open, you can park at the Wagon Road Gap Overlook (milepost 412.2) or Pounding Mill (milepost 413). It’s just a short walk on the side of the road to the trail.

 

 

Update May 30, 2016: Memorial Day 2016 offered beautiful weather in the high country. I started the day doing my Blue Ridge Parkway volunteer duty by picking up trash at the Pounding Mill Overlook. Then it was down to Pigeon Gap to hop on the MST for the climb up Green Knob. Arcane wildflowers were in abundance including such esoteric varieties as Canada may flower, speckled wood lily, smooth and false solomon seal, and fly poison. Old favorites mountain laurel and blackberry were also in abundance. Contrast the photos below during green season with the ones above from winter. Hardly seems like the same place.

 

 

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

 

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