One of these days you are likely to look up and see that Colorado National Monument, along with McInnis Canyons National Conservation Area, has become a full-fledged national park. The stunning scenery certainly qualifies. With the acreage included in MCNCA, the size is there as well. The combination of NPS units offers a myriad of front country hiking trails and backcountry adventure.

A fellow named John Otto is who we can thank for the development of this picturesque and historic region of western Colorado near the small town of Fruita. Beginning in 1906 he built trails and started work on what would become the Rim Road. Otto once said, “I came here last year and found these canyons, and they feel like the heart of the world to me. I’m going to stay and build trails and promote this place, because it should be a national park.” Not long after, in 1911, President Taft signed the proclamation that established Colorado National Monument.

When I left North Carolina to join Paula out west, our home base was the little town of Loma, also near CNM. So we spent many days after her work, and on weekends exploring the region. I have been to Colorado National Monument a few times before when my brother lived in Colorado and have written trail reports, including this one of Monument Canyon. This post also includes some pictures from Monument Canyon, with a winter contrast.

On December 19, 2020 Paula and I drove the Rim Road from Devils Kitchen in the east to Balanced Rock at the west entrance. The Rim Road is 17 miles of stunning red rock scenery. Each curve will leave you breathless from the natural beauty that surrounds you. The photo at the top of this post is looking down into Monument Canyon from above. Then, on December 31 we took an afternoon hike up the lower section of Monument Canyon after a fresh snowfall. Simply delightful.

This gallery will give you a small idea of what Colorado National Monument is all about… from above, and from below. Enjoy the photos, and feel free to comment.

Named for Butch Cassidy, the late-19th century western outlaw who hung out in these parts, Cassidy Arch stands on a precipice overlooking the Grand Wash in Capitol Reef. Cassidy Arch Trail climbs 670 feet from the wash to a slickrock bench high above the canyon. Iconic landmarks like Capitol Dome are visible along the trail that hangs on the canyon ledge. Better wear your sturdiest boots for this hike. The terrain is rocky and rugged and just waiting for you to take a misstep. My brother Dave and I hiked the Cassidy Arch Trail on Monday, June 4, 2018 beginning at 8:30AM and finishing about 11:30AM. Our plan was to climb to the arch, then return along the same path.

First a little anecdote about an unexpected adventure we encountered along Utah Hwy 62 on our way from Bryce, Utah to our destination at Capitol Reef National Park. It started with us noticing fresh cow pies scattered about the highway. We wondered if there had been cattle who escaped the fence lines along the roadside.

Then those pies became more prevalent and unavoidable, even splattering from the wheels of the car onto the side panels and doors. Then up ahead, there they were. A cattle drive. There were cowboys on horses and cattle dogs and literally hundreds and hundreds of cows being driven right down the highway. And that highway was one huge mess of bovine scatology.

Finally, after about 15 minutes we got through, but were desperately seeking a car wash in the next little one horse town. It took another 25 miles, but we found a high pressure quarter car wash in Loa. You just never know what to expect in the wild, wild west.

We arrived at the Capitol Reef Visitor Center just past 8:00, looked around for a bit and grabbed a trail map, then headed for the Grand Wash. There is nearly a mile and a half of driving on the dirt and rock-filled Grand Wash. It doesn’t require four wheel drive, that is unless you’re in a surprise rain storm and the wash floods. Don’t worry. That doesn’t happen very often.

Parking for the trailhead is at a dead end on the wash road. For 0.3 mile you continue down the Grand Wash on foot, surrounded by massive red canyon walls that tower hundreds of feet above. Look for a sharp left turn onto the Cassidy Arch Trail. There is a large stone marker here, but it could be missed in the early morning dark of the canyon wall shadows.

There is a smaller sign that simply says “carry water.” Pay attention to this. If you didn’t bring any, go back to your car now. This hike is on dry, dry, dry, rugged desert terrain that gets hot in a hurry. Water is an absolute must!

As you make that left turn onto Cassidy Arch Trail you begin climbing steeply immediately. This is up and over rocks and boulders. There are switchbacks marked only by small cairns. You need to keep your mind on the task at hand for a number of reasons. Route finding is one, but you are also right along the cliff edge, so you don’t want to stumble or lose your balance.

Rough and rugged desert terrain right along the cliff edge.

After about a half mile of steep climbing you get a bit of a break as the trail levels out somewhat and winds through a juniper forest and rocky walls of striped red and white layers. Once again, your route finding skills will be tested as the trail makes several turns along the rocky ledge. Keep your eye out for the next cairn ahead.

Now high above the canyon, many of the featured landmarks of Capitol Reef National Park come into plain view. Primary among them is Capitol Dome, a large stone mountain that is shaped somewhat like an inverted funnel.

At the one mile mark, two things happen. You get the first view of Cassidy Arch, now a half mile away across a ravine. You also come to a junction with the Frying Pan Trail, one that comes over the red rock mountain from Cohab Canyon. I messed up here. The junction sign says Cassidy Arch Trail left and Frying Pan Trail right. I went what I thought was left. It took a quarter mile of unnecessary climbing to realize we were going away from Cassidy Arch, not nearer.

So we backtracked to the trail junction. The sign is a bit misleading, at least it was to me. In reality Cassidy Arch is a hard left and Frying Pan is straight ahead. Once seeing the error, we took the hard left and were back on the right path. No harm.

The final half mile to Cassidy Arch is all across slickrock, alternating red and white. There is the occasional scramble through gullies, each with strategically carved footholds to help you along. Once again, keep your eyes peeled for the cairns that help guide you toward the arch and away from canyon edges.

Cassidy Arch is actually quite impressive as far as natural arches go. It stands 140 feet high, with a mouth that spans 60 feet. You can even walk across the arch as it is about 25 feet wide. We happened to arrive right as a team of rappellers was preparing to lower themselves to the canyon overhang below. Live entertainment.

Dave walks across Cassidy Arch. Wave hi to Dave.

While Dave crossed the arch and got a better look at the rappellers, I went up higher on the slickrock plateau for a view over the edge and into the northern end of Grand Wash. The moon was still hanging on the horizon, shining in the cloudless cerulean sky. Lots of other hikers were arriving, probably about a dozen. I was surprised at the number who were out this early on a weekday to a somewhat remote area of the underappreciated Capitol Reef. Add in a dozen rappellers and there were quite a few folks.

We stayed at the arch for about a half hour, then began the trek back. Along the way we continued to encounter more hikers. By now, the air temperature had climbed probably 20 degrees and was becoming quite warm. With no trees for shade, and no clouds in the sky, the sun will take a toll quickly. Despite this hike being less than four miles round trip, I was quite tired by the time we finished.

When we got back to the car it was time for lunch, so we found a picnic area off the Scenic Drive along the Fremont River that had perfect shade from century old cottonwood trees. Coupled with a cool breeze, the temperature immediately dropped considerably. Our Utah adventure now over, we geared up for the six hour drive back to our home base in Colorado.

In summary, when you look at Cassidy Arch Trail on a map you may not think it requires much. It’s short, less that four miles. Yes, it climbs 670 feet, but that doesn’t seem like much. That is until you find out most of it is within less than a mile. Feet up per mile is important to consider. Always keep in mind too that this is desert. It is dry. It is hot. There is no shade. It will wear you out if you aren’t prepared. Put on sunscreen. Wear a hat. And like the sign says, “carry water.”

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Golden hour is special for any place with picturesque scenic beauty, especially if you also happen to like photography. There aren’t many places more stunning during the golden hour — that time right after sunrise and right before sunset — than Bryce Canyon. There are even viewpoints named for these wonderful times… Sunrise Point and Sunset Point. So how about a trail that goes from one to the other while also diving down amidst the wondrous hoodoos and pine forest that give Bryce Canyon its majesty and character? That would be Queens Garden. My brother Dave and I hiked the Queens Garden Trail on Sunday, June 3, 2018 beginning at 6:00AM and finishing about 8:45AM. Our plan was to start at Sunset Point, crossing the Rim Trail over to Sunrise Point, arriving before dawn. As the sunrise began we would descend Queens Garden Trail from Sunrise Point, taking the loop in a clockwise direction. We would climb back up out of the hoodoos to Sunset Point, completing the loop.

The crowd was beginning to arrive already as we walked the half mile from Sunset Point to Sunrise Point in the daybreak twilight. It’s a daily ritual at Bryce Canyon as the tourists, campers and hikers all arrive before dawn for the light show that turns the world famous hoodoos from grey darkness to bright orange.

There were perhaps as many as two dozen already there when we arrived at Sunrise Point. Mostly dressed in jackets and hats for the morning chill at 8,000′, many would go back to their campfires for breakfast as soon as the sun broke the horizon. Dave and I already had ours and we started down the Queens Garden Trail right away, hoping to beat the rest of the hikers, and to find a dazzling view spot farther down into the canyon.

Our plan worked, as we didn’t see another hiker for at least the next hour. Bryce Canyon is brilliant enough in the middle of the day. I’ve now had the opportunity to experience a sunrise amongst the hoodoos twice. It simply takes your breath away. Consider every shade of pink and orange imaginable. The shadows on the tall pines and the taller hoodoo spires are long. Everything surrounding you begins to glow during the golden hour.

The sky is a cerulean blue. The moon hangs above the cliffs of the canyon rim. The chipmunks chatter. Birds form a chorus. Deer scamper and graze. The breeze whispers through the canyon passageways. Everything is in unison as it welcomes and delights in the promise of a new day. I felt privileged just to be there.

As you plunge deeper and deeper into the canyon you are surrounded by hoodoos on both sides. If you don’t know, hoodoos are tall skinny spires of rock that protrude from the bottom of arid basins. They are created over many centuries through slow erosion of the soft rock and dirt sediment layers. Here in Bryce Canyon their color tends to be mostly various shades of orange, but there are some with more of a whitish or pinkish hue.

The forest that grows in the canyon is evergreen. It is a combination of juniper, ponderosa pine and the ageless bristlecone pine. A few wildflowers manage to bloom sporadically on the otherwise barren dirt. When you reach the bottom of the trail after about three quarters of a mile, there are white and pink and orange and red mounds of dirt interspersed among the hoodoos and pines signalling the entrance to what is known as Peekaboo Canyon. You can hike down in there. Dave and I talked about doing just that on a future visit.

This is the scene at the entrance to Peekaboo Canyon.

Once you reach the bottom of the canyon, the trail is like a maze through a series of passageways, curling in, around, and among the towering hoodoos. In a couple of places where you would otherwise be stymied by limestone walls, the trail builders have carved short tunnels through the stone.

At 0.8 mile you reach a short spur trail that takes you to what is known as Queen Victoria’s Garden, a collection of hoodoos that are clustered together between two hills. At one time, decades ago, one of these hoodoos looked eerily similar to a statue of Queen Victoria found in England. Over time, though, erosion has continued to do its own sculpting on the hoodoo, so you really have to use your imagination to conjure the namesake.

The next couple miles of trail wanders among more hoodoos and follows a wash through the forest. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife in this area. There is more vegetation for them to feed on. The hiking is easy as the trail is mostly level. We found a log bench to take a brief break, and were greeted by chipmunks who wanted to share our snacks.

By now, a couple hours into this hike, we were beginning to see other folks. A few had caught up from behind, but most of them were coming down the other side of the loop. We went a bit farther and came to the junction with the Navajo Trail. It had been our original plan to take that to complete this loop hike, but it was closed for repairs. So we began the ascent of the south side of Queens Garden Trail.

As you start the ascent, the hoodoo walls get tighter and tighter. The trail becomes almost like a slot canyon. There isn’t much light. The trees are few, and the tread is dustier. We reached a feature known as Two Bridges, an alcove where twin natural bridges span a gap between hoodoos.

Soon after, the climb back to Sunset Point begins in earnest. There is a series of about a dozen switchbacks that takes you between hoodoo walls. The crowd of hikers was really coming down the trail now as we were within a quarter mile of the rim. After clearing the switchbacks, you pop out into the bright sunlight of the Bryce Amphitheater. The orange glow from the hoodoo pipes and spires seems to permeate your senses.

Across the way a lone mule deer was in peaceful repose in a gap between the towers, completely oblivious to the crowd of humans in proximity. She too was reveling in the splendor that is a Bryce Canyon morning.

We reached Sunset Point. The view over the south side into the Silent City collection of hoodoos was stunning in the early morning light. We stared at the scenery for 10-15 minutes. It wasn’t even 9:00 yet. As we sauntered back to the car, we still had nearly the entire day to look for other adventures at the wonderful Bryce Canyon.

Summarizing Queens Garden Trail, this is an excellent means of “walking among the hoodoos.” While there is some exertion involved to climb back out of the canyon, it isn’t too tough. Take your time. This entire loop can be hiked in less than three hours and offers a stimulating Bryce Canyon experience. You can make it even that much more enjoyable by checking it out at sunrise. I hope you enjoy the photos below. I especially liked putting this gallery together.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve protects the tallest sand dunes in North America, and a whole lot more. From the San Luis Valley floor to the crest of the 13,000 foot peaks in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains — the park and preserve contains ecosystems ranging from sand sheet to dunes to tundra — each supporting specially adapted plant, animal and insect life. Days are typically sunny, even in winter, and nights offer skies so dark you can see the Milky Way.

Recreational opportunities include backpacking and hiking, car camping along the Medano Pass Primitive Road, and fishing and hunting within the Preserve. But don’t forget the dunes where you can try sand sledding, or take some time to splash around in Medano Creek. Whatever your interest, there is plenty to do no matter the season.

As you approach the national park from the west, you can see it from miles and miles away. The San Luis Valley is extremely wide and flat offering exquisite views of the dunes and the Sangre de Cristo Range. The valley floor is a grassland plain with seasonal wildflowers and prickly pear cactus in abundance. Wildlife includes water birds who visit the wetlands, lizards, elk and pronghorn. The photos below were taken along Hwy 6N and Hwy 150 as we advanced toward the entry to the park, starting from about 12 miles away with a zoom lens.

My brother Dave and I visited the Great Sand Dunes on Sunday, October 2, 2016. Our hope was to take the Medano Pass Primitive Road from the dunes all the way up and into the mountains to Medano Pass at 11,380 feet. No can do under the extremely dry conditions they had been experiencing for the previous month though. The sand becomes too dry, and soft, and vehicles simply tend to sink. You can’t go if you can’t get traction. So, we came up with an alternative plan.

We had made a visit here previously perhaps 20 years before when the Sand Dunes still had a National Monument designation. At the time we scaled some of the dunes, a task we found to be extremely hot and difficult. The sand is so soft that it takes three steps to advance three feet. So we looked for trails to explore on firmer ground. A couple caught our eye, including Sand Pit and Dunes Overlook.

Sand Pit Trail is a mile round trip that winds through the grassland between the dunes and foothills, while the Dunes Overlook Trail climbs 450 feet up to a great spot for taking in the grand scope of the sand dunes, as well as marvelous views of the mountains. The total round trip for the Overlook trail is about two and a quarter miles. We were in luck that the aspen groves along the ridges of the mountain range were displaying their brilliant golden glow.

Next, it was time to check out Medano Creek, the water drainage that flows through the flats that surround the dunes. April through June, during snow melt season, the creek really roars and kids like to come here with inner tubes and ride the small waves. In October, however, the flow is reduced to not much more than a trickle.

It is kinda like being at the beach. The sand through the grassy riparian border surrounding the creek is very soft and squishy. As you approach the creek, the sand becomes damp, like a beach at low tide. We did find some drift wood, but you aren’t going to find any seashells.

All good things must come to an end, so it was time to leave Great Sand Dunes. We were staying in the nearby town of Alamosa, Colorado on our way south to New Mexico. So as we made our way from the park to the town, we stopped at a few nearby recreation areas including Blanca Wetlands and Alamosa National Wildlife Refuge. Once again, it wasn’t the wet season so there wasn’t much happening, but some day we will be back in Spring. Here are a few final photos I captured as we left Great Sand Dunes National Park.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Most folks who visit Colorado National Monument view its red sandstone landmarks from Rim Rock Drive and its many overlooks. It’s convenient for peering deep into the canyons. However, like most places of interest, getting out of your car and putting your boots on the trail will give you an up-close-and-personal encounter with iconic features like Independence Monument, the Saddlehorn, Pipe Organ, and the Kissing Couple. This 5-mile loop up Wedding Canyon, then back down Monument Canyon is a good introduction to ground level Colorado National Monument. I drove to Colorado and met my brother Dave for a two week vacation. This was our first stop, hiking it on Monday, April 27, 2015 from 9:30AM to 2:00PM. Our plan was to take the Wedding Canyon Trail to Independence Monument, explore Monument Canyon for awhile, then return via Monument Canyon Trail.

Colorado National Monument preserves one of the grand landscapes of the American West. Bold and brilliantly colored, this mesa and canyon destination encompasses 32 square miles near Fruita, Colorado. This is a special place, one protected by John Otto and others with the foresight to create and plan the national monument. You can contemplate glorious, towering masses of red sandstone and views that stretch to distant horizons from Rim Rock Drive; or delve into the remote canyons on foot where you can delight in wild country where desert bighorns roam, golden eagles soar, and flowering cactus tickle the senses.

Inside the park, the Visitor Center has information, exhibits, audiovisual programs, and a bookstore with maps and other publications. Rangers are on hand to answer your questions and help plan your visit. Rim Rock Drive offers 23 miles of breathtaking views. The road climbs from the Colorado River valley to the park’s high country, then winds along the mesa rim. Whether in your car, or on a bike, stop at the roadside overlooks along the way to enjoy the panoramas of the park’s great sandstone sculptures, canyons, and distant views.

For our adventure though, we bypassed the main national monument entrance station and headed to the Lower Monument Canyon trailhead on Hwy 340. There is a gravel parking area with room for probably 15 cars. I would recommend getting there fairly early to ensure you have a parking place, as this trailhead is quite popular even on week days.

The trail starts out in a southerly direction and soon offers you a choice. You can continue straight ahead on Monument Canyon Trail, or do as we did and take a right turn (west) onto Wedding Canyon Trail. The sign indicates that Wedding Canyon is “unimproved” trail, but we found it to be at least as well maintained as Monument Canyon Trail. I recommend you give it a go.

Wedding Canyon Trail follows the national monument boundary for awhile, and you may notice some of Fruita’s high dollar homes just on the other side of the fence. What you are more likely to notice, however, is the delightful sights and smells of the juniper and pinyon pine that lines the trail. We also happened to be hiking here right as Spring was announcing its annual appearance with bright blooming desert wildflowers.

Here, along the Wedding Canyon Trail, my brother Dave surveys the town of Fruita in the Colorado River valley below. Directly behind him is The Saddlehorn, the first of the sandstone landmarks you will see along the cliffs that overlook the canyon.

At about the half mile mark the trail makes a turn to the southwest and begins its gradual ascent into Wedding Canyon. This is a wide canyon surrounded on either side by massive sandstone cliffs. You will climb a total of just over 600 feet, but unless you’re here in the dog days of summer, you may not even break a sweat. We found barrel cactus in bloom and plenty of prickly pear that looked to be perhaps another week from flowering. Keep that in mind when you plan the timing of your visit.

We kept our eyes peeled for bighorn sheep who like to roam the ledges around the canyon. No luck on this day, but we have seen them within the national monument on previous visits. When we topped the rise, we had our first view of the sandstone monuments that erupt from the canyon floor, including Pipe Organ and Independence. We encountered a young family coming the other way, the only other hikers we saw on the Wedding Canyon side of the loop.

Two and a half miles from the trailhead we reached a major trail junction and the base of 450-foot Independence Monument. There was a very large, flat-topped boulder there that made a perfect table for lunch. Four trails, from each compass direction, come together here. You can climb about a hundred feet up the base of Independence Monument, or you can go north on the Monument Canyon Trail, or you can go east on the Monument Canyon Trail. This is also where the Wedding Canyon Trail terminates.

After renourishing, we took the east fork of the Monument Canyon Trail to go check out The Kissing Couple, another of the major sandstone monoliths. It’s about a half mile to the base of the Kissing Couple. Be sure to look over your shoulder occasionally at Independence Monument as its appearance seems to change with every turn in the trail. You can continue on the east Monument Canyon Trail to Coke Ovens and beyond, even climbing up to Rim Rock Drive. But we had seen enough and were ready to complete our loop. So we returned the half mile to the junction at Independence Monument.

This time we took the north fork of the Monument Canyon Trail to begin the descent back to the trailhead. The area was a lot busier now as we were encountering other hikers about every 10 minutes. The photo below was the view behind us soon after we cleared the junction.

Soaring 450 feet above the canyon floor, Independence Monument is a free standing tower of soft, red sandstone, the signature formation of Colorado National Monument. When the sun shines on the sandstone as it was for our visit, the rock almost glows shades of red and orange. Combine that with the rich azure Colorado sky, a few puffy white clouds, and you can see where the state gets its name.

In addition to all the hikers who were now appearing, we also began to see lots and lots of lizards of all sizes and colors. The afternoon sunshine enticed them to come out of hiding. Most intriguing among them was a green and orange collared lizard with a tail at least 8″ long and a total length of more than a foot.

To me, the Monument Canyon side of this loop isn’t nearly as scenic as the Wedding Canyon side. Sure, there is still plenty to look at like Mushroom Rock, but there is less foliage and the vistas are hidden by cliffs. Also, the last three quarters mile is back along the boundary fence looking into the backyards of the privileged residents.

Still, it was great to be out west again, especially seeing my brother for the first time in six months. If you go to Colorado National Monument, you should definitely cruise Rim Rock Drive and check out all the overlooks. It’s great for photography, especially early morning and late afternoon. But, once you’ve done the touristy thing, make sure to get out on some of the trails too.

This loop hike is a perfect example of what you can expect. It’s a great four season hike. The red rocks of Colorado National Monument are simply stunning with a fresh coating of Winter snow. If you go in Spring like we did, you will get to enjoy the desert wildflowers and cooler temperatures. Fall brings out different colors, mainly in the scrub oak found on the rim. You may want to avoid the worst of the summer heat because it can get above 100°. Whenever you go, be sure to take plenty of water.

This canyon loop is family friendly, although you might want to leave toddlers behind. Kids over 5-6 should be fine. Even the grey beards and round bellies will probably enjoy it too. Whenever my brother and I travel from his home in Colorado to the canyon country in Utah, we always make a stop at Colorado National Monument along the way. I highly recommend it.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Located on the very southern tip of the Kaibab Plateau, and the prime vista location for the North Rim of Grand Canyon, Bright Angel Point offers a bird’s-eye view of the meeting of Roaring Springs Canyon and Transept Canyon at the Bright Angel Fault. It is 4/10 mile from Grand Canyon Lodge to the point on a paved trail that offers several overlooks along the way. High altitude (8,148′) and an elevation change of 200 feet warrant extra caution for those with heart or respiratory conditions, so take your time. The trail is high above the canyons, and very narrow at points, so if you have extreme acrophobia, you may want to be wary on this one. Watch too for lightning storms, as this area is very exposed. We hiked to Bright Angel Point on Wednesday, October 15, 2014 beginning at 5:30PM and ending about 6:30PM after finishing our hike on the North Kaibab Trail. Our plan was to catch the sunset.

My brother and I still had some energy left after hiking down into the canyon on the North Kaibab Trail, and no visit to the North Rim of Grand Canyon is complete without seeing Bright Angel Point, so off we went. It’s about a mile and a half from the North Kaibab Trailhead to Grand Canyon Lodge at the terminus of the North Rim.

This is touristy Grand Canyon. There is a parking lot large enough to accommodate at least a hundred cars. The Grand Canyon Lodge is one of those quaint, environmentally sensitive structures on the North Rim that complement rather than conflict with their setting. Consisting of a main lodge and a dozen cabins, lodging here is reasonably priced, as long as you don’t come during peak season. You can experience fine dining, mule rides into the canyon, hiking, and of course, the allure of Bright Angel Point.

That allure is what brought us on this beautiful October evening. As we hit the trail toward the point, we noticed immediately the difference in plants out here. Whereas we walked among fir and aspen and scrub oak on North Kaibab, here on the point trail the ravages of time limit the vegetation to gnarly juniper and pinyon pine. But the ones that are here have been here… for a long time. There is one particularly hearty juniper that is 600 years old.

Down in the canyon, multicolored rock layers record the rise and fall of oceans and continents. That’s the fascinating thing about the walls of Grand Canyon. The layers of red and white and orange tell tales of the formation of this grand hole in the ground, written over two billion years. The North Rim is a good thousand feet higher than the South Rim, a result of the tremendous geologic uplift that has occurred.

Though invisible at Bright Angel Point, the Colorado River is the erosive force responsible for the depth of Grand Canyon. Over the past 5 million years or so, it has carved a canyon a mile deep. The canyon overlook at Bright Angel Point is above Bright Angel Creek, one of the major tributaries of the river. The name Bright Angel originated on John Wesley Powell’s pioneering exploration of the Colorado River in 1869. Powell regretted having named a muddy creek upstream the “Dirty Devil.” Later, when he found a creek with sparkling clear water, he gave it the more reverent name, “Bright Angel,” after a character in Milton’s Paradise Lost.

The large tributary canyon to the east (on your left as you walk out to the point) is Roaring Springs Canyon, a major source for Bright Angel Creek. That’s the canyon you are hiking in on the North Kaibab Trail. The main origin of water for both of these drainages is Roaring Springs. Water from Roaring Springs is pumped to the North Rim for use at the lodge and campground, as well as to watering holes for hikers and mule trains along the canyon trails. During snow melt season, Roaring Springs is flowing so strong that it can be heard from Bright Angel Point, 4,000 feet above on the canyon rim.

Farther out toward the point, plants give way to bare rock. The rocks appear worn and in some places precarious. Chances of the rocks giving way beneath you on any particular day are exceedingly small, yet you can feel and see signs of erosion. One particular spot very near the point is especially dicey. They had to construct a narrow foot bridge to reach the point. The drop on each side is precipitous. Fortunately, for those like me who aren’t fond of heights and edges, there are handrails.

An example of Grand Canyon’s dynamic forces occurred on January 3, 1991, in The Transept, the large tributary canyon to your right as you walk out to the point. A massive section of Coconino Sandstone (the light-colored layer of rock near the top) succumbed to gravity and erosion, cascading into the canyon and trailing debris along thousands of feet of canyon wall. In 1992 similar landslides closed several major trails. So, y’know, erosion does happen. Watch your step. I’m just sayin’.

Bright Angel Point is large enough for about a dozen people. While we were on the point, there were no more than four at any one time. The overlook is surrounded by a waist-high chain link fence that will help you feel secure. Roaring Springs Canyon and Transept Canyon meet directly below the point within what is called the Bright Angel Fault. The fault is still active, occasionally startling visitors when it slips. If you look closely you may see Bright Angel Trail coming down from the South Rim.

On the way back, there are a couple more caged-in observation points with excellent views of the depth of Transept Canyon and of the stunning architecture of Grand Canyon Lodge. The present-day lodge is the second incarnation, as an unfortunate 1932 fire destroyed the original building only a few years after its completion. Architect Gilbert Stanley Underwood designed a rustic lodge and cabins rather than a single hotel unit that seem natural among the surroundings. When you get back to the lodge, you can continue on the Transept Trail for more canyon views and a pathway to the North Rim campground.

To summarize, whether you came to North Rim of Grand Canyon to hobnob, or to get out on the trails, you owe it to yourself to at least check out Bright Angel Point. You may not even have to break a sweat. While not as popular (or crowded) as the South Rim, the North is forested, not barren, so it makes for an extremely pleasant experience.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.