The last of our whirlwind post-Christmas Utah swing through three national parks, a state park, and BLM land, Zion is always a crowd favorite. And the crowds were out in force. Pandemic or not, holiday season or not, Zion was packed. Zion Canyon itself was closed without a reservation, so we confined our visit to the eastern side of the park. Still absolutely stunning!

Paula and I visited east Zion on December 30, 2020 and remained confined to our car except for photo taking to remain Covid safe. I was thrilled for her to see the beauty within the park. While I love everything about Zion National Park, the east side has an appeal to me because it is so different from Zion Canyon. Most of the granite structures are white instead of red. There is usually less traffic on the east side, but not this day, as you weren’t allowed onto a shuttle into the canyon without a pre-approved reservation. So everyone crowded to the east.

The drive along the Zion-Mount Carmel road (Hwy 9) is breathtaking, including through the mile-long tunnel and the twisty, winding road down to the canyon level. We did manage to find a picnic table with some solitude for a nice lunch in a pleasant breeze.

We were there a total of about five hours and left late in the afternoon to head back to our home in western Colorado. About that… on the drive back we learned that the AirBnB host might have contracted Covid from family over Christmas while we were gone.

Pivot to an emergency home search, and an abrupt change of plans. Instead of spending the last four days of our AirBnB contract there, we found a hotel room in Grand Junction where we stayed, and Paula worked, including on New Year’s Day. She has taught me to be adaptive and quick on my feet leading the nomad life.

This gallery includes pictures from the east side of Zion National Park in Utah. Enjoy the photos, and please feel free to comment.

I have always dreamed of seeing the hoodoos at Bryce Canyon National Park covered in a fresh blanket of snow. Well, my dream came true, with Paula.

I told you about the large snow dump that southern Utah had in the midst of our five day trip. It not only buried Escalante, but left a fresh powder at Bryce Canyon and Zion as well. My dream realized… and even better than I could have imagined because I was with Paula.

Once we were dug out in Escalante, we headed to Bryce on Tuesday, December 29, 2020. We had to be careful along the way because there were still sections of highway with snow, sometimes reducing our speed 40 mph below the limit. We did arrive safely though, and quickly found that only three miles of the 19 mile Bryce Canyon park road were open for traffic, but that didn’t matter to us. We made the most of a wonderful situation.

There weren’t a whole lot of people there, but because of the limited access, they were mostly crowded into the Sunset Point and Bryce Amphitheater parking. We had to loop Sunset Point parking three times to catch someone pulling out. Once on the Rim Trail though, the beauty was astounding. I have seen pictures over the years of Bryce in snow, but the reality was even more stunning than the dream.

The orange hoodoos were so, so beautiful with their white, snow-covered hats and the sunshine illuminating the sandstone. Paula and I were in awe. A truly remarkable day it was, and one I will never forget.

This gallery includes pictures from the limited access at Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah. Enjoy the photos, and please feel free to comment.

Once all was said and done, the snowfall total was 10 inches.

The snow started about a half hour before we arrived at our destination, the Slot Canyons Inn of Escalante, Utah. Paula and I planned a post Christmas 2020 trip to the national parks of Utah. Our home base was to be this centrally located, cozy bed and breakfast. By the time we were settled in our room there was already 3-4 inches on the deck outside, and it continued through the night and into the next day, Monday December 28th.

When we awoke, we were greeted with a glorious, colorful sunrise and a true winter wonderland. It was beautiful! We had plans to go to Bryce Canyon, but we didn’t care. The snow covered trees, bushes and surrounding red rocks of Escalante were stunning. We spent the day enjoying the beauty, mostly inside in front of the southwestern style fireplace, but occasionally venturing out for a walk and big smiles.

If you ever find yourself in the region, we can heartily endorse the Slot Canyons Inn. Our host Joette was attentive to our every need and her lodge and cabins are charming, clean and inviting. Being a bed and breakfast there wasn’t a fridge or microwave in the room, but she offered use of the main kitchen for our comfort. With the cold and snow, Paula and I created a makeshift freezer on our private deck. Whoever the next guest was likely found the burritos we forgot when we checked out a couple days later. We laughed and laughed.

Joette’s son worked through the day and evening to clear the road to the main highway, and the next morning we were able to resume our national park exploration. The snow at Bryce Canyon and Zion was something I have always wanted to see. We will, however, always remember the romantic day we spent snowed in.

This gallery includes pictures from the Slot Canyons Inn of Escalante, Utah. Enjoy the photos, and please feel free to comment.

The best kept secret among the Mighty Five of Utah’s national parks, Capitol Reef is no slouch when it comes to dynamic scenery and backcountry adventure. It is remote for sure. You will likely find yourself traversing the landscape on dusty dirt roads with names like Notom Bullfrog, Grand Wash, Burr Trail Road, and Strike Valley.

Following a lovely day at Goblin Valley State Park, on December 26, 2020 Paula and I spent the night in Torrey, Utah at the cozy Capitol Reef Resort, then set out for a day of exploration. We took in the Scenic Drive from the Visitor Center through Fruita to Grand Wash, then checked out the Goosenecks trail for precarious views into the Fremont River canyon. Wow was it cold there with howling wind. We huddled together to stay warm.

We drove more than 40 miles on the Notom Bullfrog Road through the heart of the magnificent Waterpocket Fold, then connected with Burr Trail Road to climb the switchbacks to the top of the western rim of the Fold. We drove three miles up the 4wd Strike Valley Road, attempting to reach Upper Muley Twist, but recent flash floods had made the full distance impassable. Darn!

We also wanted to visit Cathedral Valley, but were once again stymied by an impassable road. The park ranger told us even a 4wd vehicle would sink in deep, dry sand. Still, we had a lovely day reveling in the otherworldly geology found in this remarkable park. Don’t miss it if you find yourself nearby.

This gallery includes pictures from the Grand Wash, the Scenic Drive, the Goosenecks Trail, Notom Bullfrog Road, as well as Burr Trail and Strike Valley. At the end of the day my Subaru was covered with a layer of red dust, a sign we had a wonderful time. Enjoy the photos, and please feel free to comment.

Believed to be evil, greedy, or mischievous, goblins are mythical creatures who bring trouble to humans, appearing in the folklore of multiple European cultures first attested in stories from the Middle Ages. Goblin Valley State Park, off Highway 24 at the San Rafael Swell in Utah includes an area where soft sandstone has eroded into interesting shapes, somewhat resembling these mythological goblins. In some spots the rock formations are close together and produce a maze-like playground ideal for exploration.

Paula and I visited Goblin Valley on December 26, 2020 on the first day of a five-day swing through canyon country in southern Utah. Most of our time there was spent walking in the Valley of Goblins, spanning nearly three square miles of free-roaming area that can be explored without need of rigid route finding. We thoroughly enjoyed the visit, having a great deal of fun. There were a lot of “wonder where this goes,” and “what’s over there?” comments throughout.

Late in the afternoon we also visited nearby Little Wild Horse Canyon, but didn’t go very far into the slots as dark was fast approaching. Paula was disappointed because she really wanted to experience a true slot canyon. We will find one for her as our future adventures continue.

When we left the area, we headed out on Scenic Highway 24 to Torrey, UT for our next day at Capitol Reef National Park. We were treated to a remarkable sunset along the way, with several stops for pictures. I’ve always been a huge fan of the Utah red rock country, so this trip brought back many fond memories of earlier excursions. It was so nice to share them now with Paula.

This gallery includes pictures from Goblin Valley State Park, Little Wild Horse Canyon, and a sunset along Highway 24. Enjoy the photos, and please feel free to comment.

Ch-ch-ch-ch changes. David Bowie wrote of change in 1971, the year I was a freshman in college. For Bowie, it was a reflective song about stepping out on your own. I thought of that song and played it in my head as I sat down to compose this post. Not quite two months ago I made a major spontaneous change in my own life. I packed up a couple weeks of belongings and hit the road to travel across the country and make good on a number pf promises I had made to myself about retirement.

In coming posts about my experiences you will learn about Paula. She is wonderful. She is engaging. She is intelligent, caring and beautiful. She is also the love of my life. I have joined her nomadic lifestyle and am thoroughly enjoying every moment. Since mid-December 2020 we have had a number of exciting adventures in three states. We have formed a strong bond over our love of Nature, the outdoors, wildlife, and national parks.

This first story from my new life is a portrayal of the first day. I awoke in the back of my Subaru in Albuquerque, NM and drove through the four corners region to meet Paula at her AirBnB in western Colorado. Along the way I saw Shiprock in New Mexico, traveled the stunningly beautiful Scenic Highway 64 and 191 through NM, AZ and UT, making a brief stop in Arches National Park, before reaching her and the best hug ever.

Enjoy the photos, feel free to comment below, and follow along. I have a whole lot more to tell you.

Named for Butch Cassidy, the late-19th century western outlaw who hung out in these parts, Cassidy Arch stands on a precipice overlooking the Grand Wash in Capitol Reef. Cassidy Arch Trail climbs 670 feet from the wash to a slickrock bench high above the canyon. Iconic landmarks like Capitol Dome are visible along the trail that hangs on the canyon ledge. Better wear your sturdiest boots for this hike. The terrain is rocky and rugged and just waiting for you to take a misstep. My brother Dave and I hiked the Cassidy Arch Trail on Monday, June 4, 2018 beginning at 8:30AM and finishing about 11:30AM. Our plan was to climb to the arch, then return along the same path.

First a little anecdote about an unexpected adventure we encountered along Utah Hwy 62 on our way from Bryce, Utah to our destination at Capitol Reef National Park. It started with us noticing fresh cow pies scattered about the highway. We wondered if there had been cattle who escaped the fence lines along the roadside.

Then those pies became more prevalent and unavoidable, even splattering from the wheels of the car onto the side panels and doors. Then up ahead, there they were. A cattle drive. There were cowboys on horses and cattle dogs and literally hundreds and hundreds of cows being driven right down the highway. And that highway was one huge mess of bovine scatology.

Finally, after about 15 minutes we got through, but were desperately seeking a car wash in the next little one horse town. It took another 25 miles, but we found a high pressure quarter car wash in Loa. You just never know what to expect in the wild, wild west.

We arrived at the Capitol Reef Visitor Center just past 8:00, looked around for a bit and grabbed a trail map, then headed for the Grand Wash. There is nearly a mile and a half of driving on the dirt and rock-filled Grand Wash. It doesn’t require four wheel drive, that is unless you’re in a surprise rain storm and the wash floods. Don’t worry. That doesn’t happen very often.

Parking for the trailhead is at a dead end on the wash road. For 0.3 mile you continue down the Grand Wash on foot, surrounded by massive red canyon walls that tower hundreds of feet above. Look for a sharp left turn onto the Cassidy Arch Trail. There is a large stone marker here, but it could be missed in the early morning dark of the canyon wall shadows.

There is a smaller sign that simply says “carry water.” Pay attention to this. If you didn’t bring any, go back to your car now. This hike is on dry, dry, dry, rugged desert terrain that gets hot in a hurry. Water is an absolute must!

As you make that left turn onto Cassidy Arch Trail you begin climbing steeply immediately. This is up and over rocks and boulders. There are switchbacks marked only by small cairns. You need to keep your mind on the task at hand for a number of reasons. Route finding is one, but you are also right along the cliff edge, so you don’t want to stumble or lose your balance.

Rough and rugged desert terrain right along the cliff edge.

After about a half mile of steep climbing you get a bit of a break as the trail levels out somewhat and winds through a juniper forest and rocky walls of striped red and white layers. Once again, your route finding skills will be tested as the trail makes several turns along the rocky ledge. Keep your eye out for the next cairn ahead.

Now high above the canyon, many of the featured landmarks of Capitol Reef National Park come into plain view. Primary among them is Capitol Dome, a large stone mountain that is shaped somewhat like an inverted funnel.

At the one mile mark, two things happen. You get the first view of Cassidy Arch, now a half mile away across a ravine. You also come to a junction with the Frying Pan Trail, one that comes over the red rock mountain from Cohab Canyon. I messed up here. The junction sign says Cassidy Arch Trail left and Frying Pan Trail right. I went what I thought was left. It took a quarter mile of unnecessary climbing to realize we were going away from Cassidy Arch, not nearer.

So we backtracked to the trail junction. The sign is a bit misleading, at least it was to me. In reality Cassidy Arch is a hard left and Frying Pan is straight ahead. Once seeing the error, we took the hard left and were back on the right path. No harm.

The final half mile to Cassidy Arch is all across slickrock, alternating red and white. There is the occasional scramble through gullies, each with strategically carved footholds to help you along. Once again, keep your eyes peeled for the cairns that help guide you toward the arch and away from canyon edges.

Cassidy Arch is actually quite impressive as far as natural arches go. It stands 140 feet high, with a mouth that spans 60 feet. You can even walk across the arch as it is about 25 feet wide. We happened to arrive right as a team of rappellers was preparing to lower themselves to the canyon overhang below. Live entertainment.

Dave walks across Cassidy Arch. Wave hi to Dave.

While Dave crossed the arch and got a better look at the rappellers, I went up higher on the slickrock plateau for a view over the edge and into the northern end of Grand Wash. The moon was still hanging on the horizon, shining in the cloudless cerulean sky. Lots of other hikers were arriving, probably about a dozen. I was surprised at the number who were out this early on a weekday to a somewhat remote area of the underappreciated Capitol Reef. Add in a dozen rappellers and there were quite a few folks.

We stayed at the arch for about a half hour, then began the trek back. Along the way we continued to encounter more hikers. By now, the air temperature had climbed probably 20 degrees and was becoming quite warm. With no trees for shade, and no clouds in the sky, the sun will take a toll quickly. Despite this hike being less than four miles round trip, I was quite tired by the time we finished.

When we got back to the car it was time for lunch, so we found a picnic area off the Scenic Drive along the Fremont River that had perfect shade from century old cottonwood trees. Coupled with a cool breeze, the temperature immediately dropped considerably. Our Utah adventure now over, we geared up for the six hour drive back to our home base in Colorado.

In summary, when you look at Cassidy Arch Trail on a map you may not think it requires much. It’s short, less that four miles. Yes, it climbs 670 feet, but that doesn’t seem like much. That is until you find out most of it is within less than a mile. Feet up per mile is important to consider. Always keep in mind too that this is desert. It is dry. It is hot. There is no shade. It will wear you out if you aren’t prepared. Put on sunscreen. Wear a hat. And like the sign says, “carry water.”

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

The mornings were spent hiking at Bryce Canyon, but the afternoons and evenings we played tourist just like thousands of others. We rode the shuttle. We checked out all the overlooks. We oohed and aahed. We took lots of pictures.

The first three miles inside the park is where you will find Bryce Amphitheater. The most iconic — but also most popular — views are found along the canyon rim here. Bryce Point, Inspiration Point, Sunrise and Sunset Points all have breathtaking viewing of the hoodoos that populate the amphitheater. We also went to Paria View to see the sunset.

Hoodoos here begin as fins capped with dolomite extending from the rim of the plateau. Each year brings nearly a 200 day freeze-thaw cycle, combined with the effects of CO2 fueled acid rain, to erode the hoodoos and create windows in these fins. Eventually the caprock caves in creating hoodoos.

As the streams and rivers that feed the Grand Canyon carved down into the rock layers, the headwaters moved slowly, further and further back, like fingers into the rim of the plateau creating a bowl-shaped pattern. This is the genesis of the main Bryce Amphitheater and the other smaller theaters that adorn the plateau, creating the most dense collection of hoodoos in the world.

If you want to learn more about some of the hiking trails available at Bryce Canyon National Park you can see my reports here:

Fairyland Loop Trail
Mossy Cave Trail
Queens Garden Trail
Bristlecone Loop Trail
Swamp Canyon Trail

But if you just want to be a tourist, you can do that too. Put simply, Bryce Canyon is one of the most unusual and awesome places on Earth. If you’ve been, you know what I’m talking about. If not, you need to plan a trip. You will be inspired and amazed. Enjoy the photos! Feel free you leave your comments below the thumbnails gallery.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

You can’t really tell from the overlook, but there’s a lot to like down in Swamp Canyon. For one, this is part of Bryce Canyon Wilderness, so it is definitely less crowded than the majority of the national park. There are great views of Wightman Bench and Swamp Canyon Butte from down in the canyon. Wildflowers and wildlife are abundant during the green seasons. For a quiet adventure off the beaten path, give Swamp Canyon a try. My brother Dave and I hiked the Swamp Canyon Trail on Sunday, June 3, 2018 beginning at 1:00PM and finishing about 3:00PM. Since we had already done two hikes this day, our plan was to head into Swamp Canyon until we got tired, then return.

Topo map of our hike. Click for larger map.

After having already hiked Queens Garden and Bristlecone Loop on this day, as the sun warmed the afternoon, we weren’t particularly interested in a long slog down into a canyon. You can do a four and a half mile loop through Swamp Canyon. More than we had in mind, so we decided to just go for awhile, then turn around when we started getting tired.

From the overlook on the main park road, Swamp Canyon appears relatively small and sheltered. It’s bounded on both sides by fins and hoodoos, common to most of Bryce Canyon. However, this smaller size allows you to develop a more intimate connection with the landscape than some of the grander viewpoints may provide.

The trailhead for this hike is on the north end (left) of the overlook. It is actually two trailheads. There’s the Sheep Creek Trail, a more wandering access to Swamp Canyon that winds through meadows and forest before descending, and the Swamp Canyon Connector Trail, a more direct descent. We chose the latter.

The first quarter mile or so takes you through alternating meadow and evergreen forest before reaching the junction where Sheep Creek Trail departs. At the time of our visit in early June, the wildflowers were enjoyable, including blue flax, daisies, clematis and what looked to be a flowering bush in the creosote family.

Just before beginning the descent into the canyon, there is a fantastic natural viewing platform between two fins that displays the breadth and depth of Swamp Canyon to the east, and also looks back on the rim behind you. That’s the photo at the top of this post.

The view looking east into Swamp Canyon.

The descent is through a series of switchbacks, dropping about 700 feet in total. Not far down, there’s a sign that indicates you are entering Bryce Canyon Wilderness, the rugged backcountry region of the national park. When you’re nearing the bottom, the forest becomes more dense, and there is evidence of previous wildfires. Some of the forest is quite stunning, healthy and green, while other portions will take decades to recover from fire.

You reach another trail junction, this one where the Connector Trail meets the Swamp Canyon Trail. The forest occasionally opens up providing views of the massive Swamp Canyon Butte standing more than a thousand feet above the canyon level. There are also many of the orange hoodoos that give Bryce Canyon its character.

There is scrub oak down in the canyon, at one point growing over and dominating the trail. It is quiet. Really the only sounds are the songbirds. Because of the time of day we didn’t see any wildlife, but there is evidence that there is plenty around.

After hiking just over 1.3 miles, we found a nice shady spot on a hill to have a snack, and where Dave could setup for a timelapse video of the puffy white clouds that were beginning to billow above the canyon rim. The hillside was quite sandy, almost like a dune, with flowers and scrub and trees growing. Seemed somewhat out of place amid the giant rock spires of the canyon.

After sitting in the shade for 15 minutes, this seemed like a good place to turn around. By now, the afternoon temperature was beginning to rise, and we were becoming a bit leg weary on this our third hike of the day.

We took our time on the way back up, seemingly a lot longer than the descent. But isn’t that the way it always is? I don’t know about you, but I much prefer going downhill to going up. Lung capacity and all that. Nearly 8,000′ elevation doesn’t help either.

In summary, Swamp Canyon is a nice place to get away from the crowds that encircle the main amphitheater of Bryce Canyon National Park. It is quieter. You may end up like us and have the trail all to yourself. There is some exertion required, but not too bad. Next time I find myself at Bryce Canyon I would also like to try out the Sheep Creek access into Swamp Canyon.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Bristlecone Loop, accessible from Rainbow Point at the southern-most end of Bryce Canyon National Park, meanders through a spruce-fir forest atop the highest portion of the park, reaching elevations over 9,100 feet. This short and easy stroll passes by bristlecone pines up to 1,800-years-old and experiences vistas reaching into Dixie National Forest and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. While still popular, this far end of the park is not nearly as crowded as the primary amphitheater area, but no less beautiful. My brother Dave and I hiked the Bristlecone Loop Trail on Sunday, June 3, 2018 beginning at 10:30AM and finishing about 11:30AM. Our plan was to start at Rainbow Point, follow the loop counter-clockwise, then finish at Yovimpa Point.

Bristlecone Loop Trail is in red.

After completing the Queens Garden Loop very early in the morning, we still had the majority of the day left to do more exploring of the features at Bryce Canyon National Park. We decided to drive to the south end of the park, then check out all the overlooks on the way back north, perhaps finding a couple of short hikes to keep the legs warm.

One of those short hikes was Bristlecone Loop. Once arriving at the cul-de-sac at the end of Bryce Canyon Road, we first checked out the appropriately named Rainbow Point. Back in the Bryce Amphitheater the hoodoos are far more numerous, but there are none more colorful than those at Rainbow Point.

The trailhead for the loop is right there too, so we grabbed some water and sun hats and set out to see what we could find. Almost immediately there’s an overlook on the east side of the trail with views into Dixie National Forest down below, and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument far into the distance.

Most of the trail is through healthy Blue Spruce, Douglas Fir and White Fir. As you get near the point at the far end of the loop, the bristlecones hang on the edge of the cliffs. Bristlecone pines are some of the oldest trees in the world. In fact, there’s one at Cedar Breaks National Monument, just down the road from Bryce Canyon, that is said to be more than 5,000 years old. Many of those here are nearly 2,000.

We also found several varieties of wildflowers including balsamroot, blue flax, clematis and lupine.

There are multiple overlooks at the far end of the loop. None are as picturesque as Rainbow Point, but they do offer a wide view of the sprawling expanse of canyon country that is southern Utah. They say on a clear day you can see all the way to the four corners area, far to the east.

On the way back, there’s a gazebo along the cliff edge where you can rest for a bit, or get some shade. Inside is a wonderful Thoreau quote, “Silence alone is worthy to be heard.” It is quite appropriate for this section of Bryce Canyon, far away from civilization and the very busy parts of the national park. There isn’t much to hear here. Birds and breeze. Maybe even your own heart beating.

Once you get back to the beginning, if you walk to the west end of the parking area, there is a short paved pathway to Yovimpa Point, another major overlook like Rainbow. This one looks to the southwest.

In summary, Bristlecone Loop is one that is great for hikers of all ages. If you’re going to drive all the way to the south end of the park, you might as well take an hour to walk around this loop. This is the highest point in the park, over 9,000 feet, so it can have as much as 3-15 feet of snow in winter.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.