Jones Gap State Park sits on the Blue Ridge Escarpment in upstate South Carolina very near the state line with its neighbor to the north. Along with Caesars Head State Park, these two share an area known as Mountain Bridge Wilderness. The Jones Gap Trail follows the Middle Saluda River from the park visitor center along an old roadway built by Solomon Jones in the 1850s. In this cove backcountry the river is quite wild with many waterfalls and rapids that add exciting sights and sounds to a pristine mountain woodland. A couple miles up from the eastern end of Jones Gap Trail is Jones Gap Falls, the destination for this hike. My brother Dave and I visited Jones Gap on February 17, 2020 beginning at 10:15am and finishing at 1:15pm. The plan was to take Jones Gap Trail up the Middle Saluda River to Jones Gap Falls and beyond, then return.

South Carolina State Parks have a voluntary $6 hiking fee, so be sure to register either at the Visitor Center or at the sign box in the parking area. It really helps with trail maintenance, something that has become an issue at Jones Gap because of incessant rain for years now.

It’s about a quarter mile stroll from the parking area at Jones Gap State Park — along the Middle Saluda River, past the Learning Center — to the eastern Jones Gap trailhead. This trail is also known as the Middle Saluda Passage of the Palmetto Trail (learn more about the Palmetto Trail here and here).

This area of Jones Gap is also an Audobon bird sanctuary and you may be fortunate enough to see a few Great Blue Herons. They tend to hang out along the river near the Visitor Center. On our earlier visit we stopped at the Learning Center and spent nearly a half hour with the park ranger talking about the history and geology of the Jones Gap area. Ranger Lee was extremely informative, and a very nice guy to boot.

Beyond the Learning Center, a foot bridge takes you across the river, past a signboard detailing all the trails in Mountain Bridge Wilderness, and onto the Jones Gap Trail. The blue-blazed trail is slightly uphill as it follows the whitewater of the wild river. When we were here a few years ago, this major trail artery up the gap was in excellent condition, perhaps a little rocky, but otherwise well taken care of. That is not the case now. Rain, year after year, has turned this trail into a sub-drainage of the river, and with it all the mud and erosion that would be expected. Unfortunately, it will be very expensive to repair the drainage problem.

There are 4-5 campsites alongside the trail and the river that make excellent vantage points for views upstream. During the green and warmer months, these sites are usually occupied, so you don’t want to infringe on their privacy. But off season, they’re good for photos of the river, and perhaps for a snack break.

An example view from one of the trailside campsites.

A little less than a mile upriver, look for red blazes bearing right onto the Rainbow Falls Trail. The Jones Gap Trail continues to the left at the junction and Rainbow Falls bears to the right. Here is the trail report, if you’re curious. But for this hike, take the left fork, blue blaze.

It is approximately another three-quarters mile from this junction to Jones Gap Falls. The trail gets decidedly steeper, climbing a few hundred feet. When you cross the river to a campground on the north side, you are almost there. Look for several nice cascades along this stretch.

You’re nearly there now. When you reach the trail sign for the falls, head uphill away from the river. It isn’t far, perhaps 70 yards. Once you clear the first rise you will know you’re there. This is a large waterfall — 50 feet in height, probably 15-20 feet wide. Because of heavy winter rain, it was flowing pretty good. Both sides of the falls are surrounded by extremely thick rhododendron. I suspect this area is a chromatic delight during bloom season.

There are some flat rocks at the base of the falls that are perfect for lunch. They are just far enough away from the falls that we didn’t get mist in the face as we put on the feed bag. We stayed for nearly a half hour for pictures, and simply to enjoy this appealing waterfall.

After getting renourished, we still had some energy, so we continued up Jones Gap Trail. You can go another four miles to the western end of Jones Gap. Here’s the trail report. But we weren’t that adventurous. We went up another quarter mile or so, found a nice cascade along the river, and discovered what I call Smiley Rock. See the photos below.

From Jones Gap Falls, the return to the Visitor Center is just a straight shot back down Jones Gap the way you came.

Summarizing, unfortunately the condition of the Jones Gap Trail has really deteriorated since my initial visit in 2012. It’s a shame too. The SC State Parks folks had done a wonderful job building it. It is certainly still passable. Just plan on getting your hiking boots muddy, and be very careful where you step. Very easy to turn an ankle, or worse. The waterfall is quite nice, well worth the effort to get there. This is one the entire family can enjoy, as long as you have appropriate footwear.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

This park sits right on the cliff’s edge of the Blue Ridge Escarpment that drops down from the mountains in western North Carolina to the upcountry of South Carolina. The park is more than 3,000 acres of trails, lakes, cabins and camping. Pinnacle Mountain Trail is the most challenging within the park, with a climb that exceeds 2,300 feet. The lower section follows Carrick Creek, while the upper levels offer fantastic views into the South Carolina Upstate, with massive rock outcroppings along the way. Ken and I hiked Pinnacle Mountain at Table Rock State Park on Monday, December 18, 2017 beginning at 9:30AM and ending about 3:30PM. Our plan was to hike Pinnacle Mountain Trail to the Mill Creek Pass Trail, connect with the Ridge Trail, then take Table Rock Trail to the summit of Table Rock. It didn’t work out that way, and we visited the Pinnacle Mountain summit instead.

When we arrived at the Table Rock State Park Visitor Center on Lake Oolenoy we learned that a change of plans was in the cards. Instead of heading up Table Rock via the Pinnacle Mountain Trail and Mill Creek Pass, we would instead hike to the summit of Pinnacle Mountain. Why? 2016 brought a devastating wildfire to the forest of Table Rock and 2017 saw Hurricane Irma ravage the area, blowing down trees and eroding trails. Not to worry. This would still be an enjoyable hike. We also learned that over the years since our last visit to Table Rock State Park, they had raised the day use fee from $2 per person to $5. Still a bargain.

The lower part of this hike follows Carrick Creek past a series of small waterfalls, over wooden footbridges, and along smooth creek bedrock. It shares the first quarter mile with the Table Rock Trail, one that we had hiked way back in 2011. At the split we turned left onto yellow-blazed Pinnacle Mountain Trail, while Table Rock Trail goes to the right.

We happened to arrive on a very foggy morning. The forest was actually kind of eery. However, a pair of hikers coming down the mountain from an overnight camp told us there was good news ahead. We would eventually climb above the cloud inversion, offering a masterpiece view of the low valley fog.

The next two and a half miles are gently uphill, passing through deciduous forest and groves of mountain laurel and rhododendron. You continue to follow Carrick Creek for a mile or more, much of it rubbed bare and smooth over thousands of years draining Pinnacle Mountain. You could almost slide on your behind along the path of the creek like a water park, but don’t. They wouldn’t like that.

The higher you get, the rockier the terrain. Car sized boulders and fins appear in the woods, crumbling eons ago from the escarpment high above. Just past the 2.5 mile marker you reach The Mill Creek Falls spur trail. It was our intention to take the 0.4 mile sidetrack to observe the waterfall. However, it is still closed thanks to the thoughtlessness of Hurricane Irma.

So on we pushed, soon passing the southern end of the Mill Creek Pass Trail, one that we would use for our return after visiting Pinnacle Mountain. The rocks are house size now, and we began to enter the wildfire zone. It was really hard to tell how much the ecology has recovered in one short year because we were there in winter. There was no green to be seen. There are, however, still many, many burn marks.

The trail really begins climbing in earnest now, becoming increasingly steeper the higher you go. This makes it all the more amazing how the wildfire burned this steepest part of the mountain. We had also now cleared the fog layer, and were looking down upon it. Nearly 400 feet above the Pass junction, you reach the remarkable Bald Rock.

There are two levels to this massive cliff face, each offering a unique view of the South Carolina Upstate. The first level is a little more rounded, with a less scary edge, but the upper level has a definitive precipice. You don’t want to get too close because it is a very long way down. The vista to the south was limited because of the sea of clouds below us, but there is a magnificent view of the Table Rock pluton off to the east.

Don’t get too close to the Bald Rock edge. Believe me, the bottom is not as soft as those clouds look.

There was a nice couple sitting on Bald Rock, enjoying lunch. We chatted for a bit and learned this was to be their turning around point. Based on what I learned later, I kinda wish I’d made the same decision.

From Bald Rock, the trail climbs another 625 feet to the summit of Pinnacle Mountain in just a half mile, or less. That is steep folks… and I’m not afraid to tell you that it took everything I had to make it to the top. I’m not as strong a hiker as I was five years ago (I am older after all), but I can still hold my own. Believe me when I tell you that this half mile stretch is strenuous.

About half way there you reach the junction with the famous Foothills Trail. If you are ever interested in a multi-day trek in this neck of the woods, there is a lot to behold along the Foothills, including the nearby Sassafras Mountain.

It’s still another 340 feet up to the summit, the steepest part yet. It doesn’t get any easier. As you’ll see from the picture below that I took of the summit sign, I did make it, but I was a wreck when I reached the top. The good news is the nice logs at the summit that make perfect seats for a rest, and a lunch break.

Ken, as he always does, still seemed fresh from the climb, but he did admit to me that even he was tired. We stayed for about 20 minutes, eating lunch, and catching our breath. There isn’t really much to see on the summit, unfortunately. There are no cool views or historic artifacts, just the self-knowledge that you accomplished the feat.

Here, the Pinnacle Mountain Trail meets the orange-blazed Ridge Trail. You can take the Ridge Trail all the way nearly two miles to its meeting with the Table Rock Trail, but our plan was just to descend to the upper junction of the Mill Creek Pass Trail. As you would expect, the first quarter mile going down is very steep, just like the ascent. We ran into more evidence of the 2016 wildfire along the way.

It’s ¾ mile to the bypass, dropping a total of 550 feet. Then, the blue-blazed Pass Trail is another ¾ mile, and drops another 400 feet. Hard on the knees and hips. Look for lots and lots of mountain laurel along the way. This stretch of trail is probably quite beautiful with pink and white flowers in May.

Once back on the Pinnacle Mountain Trail, it’s then a three mile trudge back to the trailhead, terrain already covered on the way up. It was more clear now, as the fog layer had finally burned off, and the air temp had warmed nicely. We encountered a half dozen more hikers getting a late start on their way up, likely overnighters.

In summary, this hike is hard, but that doesn’t make it a bad experience. Bald Rock, for example, is by itself well worth the effort. The views are stupendous. Perhaps just consider an up and back to there. If you are a really gung-ho super hiker, then go for the entire loop to Pinnacle Mountain, on to Panther Gap and Governor’s Rock, and then up to the summit of Table Rock, a total of about 12 miles with two major ascents. Y’know, I’ve only visited Table Rock in the winter so far. I think I need to plan a spring excursion.

I'd like to pass along a well deserved pat on the back for all the employees and volunteers of the SC Parks Dept. who have been working on repairs to the Table Rock trail system since the devastating wildfire and hurricane. The crews have done remarkable work restoring access to the trails. There's still a lot of work to do, but they earn huge kudos from me.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Another of the fun and exciting South Carolina state parks that line the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway, Keowee Toxaway offers two hiking trails that take visitors over a natural bridge and through the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, land once traveled by Cherokee Indians. Much of the trail follows the shore of Lake Keowee through the healthy oak/hickory forest that surrounds it. The trail’s namesakes are interesting features, but the highlights of this hike are the terrain and the views. I hiked Natural Bridge and Raven Rock Trails on Wednesday, December 6, 2017 beginning at 9:15AM and ending about 12:20PM. My plan was to hike this double loop on the eastern side outbound, then return on the west.

It’s kind of amazing when you think about it… all the state parks that are lined up along the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway (SC-11). Starting with Jones Gap and Caesars Head, then on to Table Rock, followed by Keowee Toxaway and Devils Fork, then ending at Oconee. Quite a few choices for adventure. Keowee Toxaway is closest to the highway of all of them.

And while convenient for getting to the trailhead, the highway noise on the first half mile of the hike is a bit annoying as the Natural Bridge Trail pretty much parallels the road. The passing cars and trucks were definitely the first thing I noticed as I set out, but I eventually got over it and started paying more attention to the sights rather than the sounds.

The first loop of this hike is the 1.3 mile Natural Bridge Trail. Short, but not necessarily easy for those who may just wander in from their couch in Nyak, NY wearing nothing but sandals. It drops about 200 feet along the Poe Creek drainage, meaning you have to climb back up to get to the trailhead. 15 minutes in, the sounds change from highway noise to the rushing of Poe Creek.

At the half mile mark you cross Natural Bridge. If you aren’t paying attention, you will probably walk right over it. It is a large granite slab, differentiated from the clay tread of most of the trail, but you really have to drop down over the side to see the opening beneath the rock. Probably about two feet high, it is indeed a natural bridge, but it pales in comparison to others I have visited. Look for a Poe Creek waterfall on your left a few hundred feet after the natural bridge.

Half way around the Natural Bridge loop is the junction with Raven Rock Trail, and the meat of this hike begins. You start climbing immediately up the slopes of McKinney Mountain, past massive granite outcroppings. This is primarily an oak/hickory forest, with occasional beech and pine to mix it up a bit. There is also lots and lots of mountain laurel, so I expect this to be quite resplendent in pink flowers come May.

After another half mile you reach the crest of McKinney Mountain, about 400 feet higher than the low point along Poe Creek. Now it’s downhill on the approach to Keowee Lake. This is the stretch of trail where you need to be careful. It crosses exposed granite in places. On the day I was there the granite was still wet from overnight rain. If you’re familiar with what happens to granite when it gets wet, you know to take your time and test your footing.

With the leaves down, I was able to see through the woods as the lake appeared about a quarter mile before I descended to its level. The Raven Rock Trail stays about 25 yards from the lake, but it is easy to walk through the woods for a clear view of the shoreline. Directly on the other side is the Cliffs at Keowee resort community, including its golf course.

The trail winds in and out of various coves in the lake shore, eventually reaching a small peninsula with a spur trail that takes you to three tent campsites. From the tip of the peninsula you have a great view of one of the golf greens as well as what used to be Estatoe Creek. Of course the former route of the creek is now filled with reservoir water. Look too for small sandy beaches that line the shore.

A Cliffs at Keowee resort greenskeeper tends one of his greens before the golfers arrive. This used to be Estatoe Creek.

When you return to Raven Rock Trail from the campsites, the ascent back up McKinney Mountain begins. A couple things I noticed throughout the hike were, a) there had been quite a bit of recent blowdown along the trails from frequent wind storms, but the state parks folks have done a remarkable job of keeping the trails clear (hat tip), and b) judging by the number of spider webs my face plowed into, apparently the spiders in South Carolina don’t mind cold weather. Perhaps the NC spiders migrate south for the winter.

It is about a third mile from the campsites to Raven Rock itself. When standing on Raven Rock, it doesn’t really seem like much, perhaps about 20 feet square, but the bulk of Raven Rock is beneath you. You can see by looking over the side that it is a massive wall of granite. From the lake in a boat, it would be quite impressive.

On this day it was also wet and slippery. Be careful, because if you go over the edge you will splash below. I could hear the rock whispering to me that it was time for lunch, so I pulled up a seat and pulled out my sandwich. While munching, I looked around a bit. Directly in front of you is a small island in the lake. It probably has a name, but I couldn’t find it. On the other side of the lake are more trophy resort homes in the Cliffs development.

You are also high enough here to see the Blue Ridge Mountains behind the shorter ridge nearest the lake. There was a nice wispy layer of clouds hovering near the Blue Ridge that enhanced the view. The lake itself was mirror still, creating very appealing reflections of the forest that surrounds the shore. All in all, a nice spot for a break.

Once I resumed hiking it was still about a half mile to the Raven Rock Trail loop junction, then another half back past all the granite outcroppings on McKinney Mountain to the Natural Bridge Trail junction. I turned right here to do the lower, western side of the NBT loop.

The trail drops another hundred feet alongside Poe Creek, including a set of stairs built into the somewhat steep hillside. At the bottom is a trail sign pointing the way across Poe Creek. Also at the bottom is another waterfall. This one is tiered, making a five foot plunge, then taking a sharp right turn and dropping another five feet… all surrounded by granite boulders and rhododendron. No doubt a very pleasing sight in June when the rhodo is in bloom.

After crossing the creek, the trail continues to follow the creek for a bit and then begins that final 200 feet ascent that I mentioned earlier. As the rush of Poe Creek disappears behind you, the traffic sounds on Hwy 11 announce that you are nearly back to the trailhead. There is one final twisty stairway to navigate, then the last quarter mile push back to the Visitor Center.

In summary, I’m likely to spend a lot more time at the South Carolina state parks this winter. The Upstate is 2,000 feet lower, and usually 8-10° warmer than the mountains. It took me only 65 minutes to get to Keowee Toxaway from my home, and Jones Gap, Caesars Head, and Table Rock are even closer than that. This double loop hike at Keowee Toxaway is a nice way to spend three hours. It’s not too hard, but will give you some exercise. This one should be fine for the whole family, even your pooch.

Update March 30, 2018: With Spring here and the weather warming, a search for early season wildflowers seemed in order. Somewhere along the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Hwy popped into my mind, so Keowee Toxaway it was. I wasn’t disappointed. While there weren’t a lot of flowers, there was quite a wide variety, and a good inkling of things to come. Not a lot happening with the trees yet, although I did see a few buds, and the maple seed pods were out, turning the tree tops a delightful red. Here’s some new pictures from my visit.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Congaree National Park, located in the heart of South Carolina, is a land of towering trees, of floods and fire, of woodland paths and water trails used by people for more than 10,000 years. This rare, old growth forest became a national park in 1976. These ancient trees have witnessed wars, slavery, freedom, and destruction. There are 25 miles of hiking trails in Congaree, including Oakridge. Passing through a rich stretch of old growth forest, along the way you will cross a number of sloughs, or small creeks that carry floodwaters into and out of the park’s floodplain as the level of Congaree River rises and falls. Ken and I hiked Oakridge Trail on Wednesday, November 29, 2017 beginning at 9:15AM and ending about 2:15PM. Our plan was to take Boardwalk Trail to Weston Lake Trail, then on to Oakridge Trail. On the return we would catch the other side of each loop.

I just happened to notice it was going to be 70° in South Carolina the week after Thanksgiving. Seemed like a good time for a road trip. Congaree National Park, just southeast of Columbia, is only 2.5 hours from the mountains, so that seemed like a great opportunity to explore a new place. It was a good choice.

Just driving into Congaree National Park you can tell this place is different. I’ve been visiting and hiking the creeks and forests of the Blue Ridge and Great Smoky Mountains for years. This central Carolina floodplain is not the mountains. The forest is different. The aromas are different.

The Congaree River is bounded on both sides by bluffs that mark the edge of the floodplain and help contain floodwaters that cover much of the park each year. Those floods bring in minerals and other nutrients to the ecosystem. Most of the year the park is dry, but after a heavy rain sloughs and guts (small water channels) begin to fill.

Centuries ago, the southeastern North American continent was abundant in old growth forest floodplain. Today, more than 99 percent of it has been lost to pastures, farms and cities. The trees were cut for ships, railroads and buildings. 35 million acres are gone. Less than one half of one percent — 11,000 acres — is protected in Congaree National Park.

As soon as you begin hiking from the Harry Hampton Visitor Center (named for a journalist instrumental in protecting Congaree) on the Lower Boardwalk Trail you begin to notice the murky, swampy feel of the terrain on either side. Squirrels skitter about from dry spot to dry spot. Pileated woodpeckers dig for grubs in the fallen, wet trees.

After a quarter mile or so you come to the bald cypress trees, groves of which will provide shade throughout the remainder of the day. Also, you will find the first of the “knees,” unusual pointed mini-trees that stand anywhere from 1-3 feet high. Since cypress trees have such a wide but shallow root structure, the knees help stabilize their entire system. Many of these cypress systems are considered “champion trees,” the largest of their kind in the nation.

The Boardwalk is a 2.4 mile loop that allows easy access for all visitors to Congaree, offering an example of what the wilderness areas of the park have in store for those who set out on longer expeditions. The west side of the Boardwalk stands only about a foot above ground and may be regularly covered by water. The eastern side is elevated anywhere from five to 12 feet, enabling you to see the floodplain in action.

After three quarters of a mile, the Boardwalk makes a left turn, while the rest of the trail system continues on land into the wilderness. The first trail you will be on here, Weston Lake Loop Trail, is #3 and is blaze-marked as such. Most of Congaree is wilderness, a designation that protects its wild character, natural conditions, and opportunities for solitude. No mechanical objects are allowed in designated wilderness, preserving quiet, peace and serenity for wildlife, and for hikers. The only break in the silence is the occasional flyover of fighter jets from nearby Shaw Air Force Base.

Bald cypress “knees” help to stabilize the root system of these giant trees that stand in water.

The Weston Lake Loop Trail is an inner loop within the wilderness that is 4.4 miles in total, and stays on the north side of Cedar Creek. Oakridge Trail (#4) is a 6.6 mile outer loop that crosses to the south side of Cedar Creek and offers additional exploration. Ken and I felt adventurous, so we mapped out a path that would take us most of the way around both loops, a hike of almost 10 miles.

We soon began to notice another of the forest differences of lowland South Carolina — spanish moss hanging from the branches and treetops of the giant oaks and beech. We were treated to a surprise as well, there was quite a bit of autumn leaf color still happening, even at this late November date.

As you walk into the backcountry, the swamp whispers stories of its abundant history. The first people inhabited the Congaree 10,000 years ago, hunting with stone arrowheads and gathering pawpaws. Europeans began to explore the area in the 1500’s bringing with them disease and war, stealing the land from the native peoples.

As you walk among the cypress groves growing in dry sloughs, you notice the occasional small meadows, remains of the slave period when the floodplain was developed for crops. During the Revolutionary War, the famous American general Francis Marion, known as the Swamp Fox, led a siege that broke the British hold on the land around Congaree.

In the next century, during the Civil War, slaves used the Congaree as a hiding place, even forming small communities. After the war, the freed people were able to buy farms in the “40 acres and a mule” program. As the turn of the century approached, a logging company bought most of the Congaree floodplain, hoping to score a fortune from the old growth oaks, cypress and pine. Instead, they discovered the frequently wet forest to be difficult and expensive to log, and gave up.

In the mid-20th century, the loggers tried again, but this time were stymied by a grassroots campaign to save the forest, led by journalist Harry Hampton. With bipartisan support, legislation was eventually passed to preserve this largest remaining old growth floodplain in the Southeastern United States, and in 1976 Congaree was given national park status.

The Oakridge Trail is easy to hike, level and wandering. We were fortunate to catch it completely dry, not even damp. A park ranger at the Visitor Center told us before we started that mud is very common. The ground cover is mostly switch cane and river cane, quite common in the Carolina lowlands. In addition to the cypress, oak and beech, look for tupelo trees with their swollen trunks.

There is occasional blow down that must be navigated, courtesy of hurricanes Hugo in 1989, Matthew in 2016, and Irma in 2017. Some of it may be difficult for small children to get over, but lifting and carrying will solve that problem.

As we reached the eastern side of Oakridge Trail, we once again crossed over Cedar Creek and picked up the southern bottom of the Weston Lake Loop Trail, following Cedar Creek for the next mile and a quarter. We kept an eye out for river otters. Sightings are common along the creek bank, but not for us on this day. So we found a particularly scenic spot amid a cypress grove and stopped for lunch.

This particularly enticing view along Weston Lake Trail proved to be a delightful place for lunch and a rest.

The impressive height of the Congaree forest canopy comes thanks to the extremely rich soil, the frequent flooding, and the southeastern climate offering a long growing season. The oaks and cypress average 130 feet here, and on the western side of Weston Lake Trail there are loblolly pines that scrape the sky 160 feet above.

These “champion” trees, however, remain at risk despite the protections that are now in place. Floods bring with them pollution. Climate change is altering plant growth and animal behavior, as well as weather patterns (for example, the more frequent high-wind hurricanes).

As we returned to the eastern side of the Weston Lake Loop, we hopped back on the Boardwalk to head over to the west side of the loop again to check out the massively tall loblollies, and Weston Lake. Once a bend in the Congaree River, Weston Lake is now what is called an oxbow lake, a U-shaped body of water that forms when a wide meander from the main stem of a river is cut off, creating a free-standing body.

I was struck by how the lake’s elevation is right there with the dry land. Walking along the lakeshore made it quite evident just how easy it is for all of this to flood. It probably isn’t a good idea to visit Congaree soon after an especially hard rain. The park ranger also told us that when the trees go dormant in winter, they stop drawing water from the earth. Therefore, the water table naturally rises, flooding the surface even if there hasn’t been rain. Amazing!

After viewing the lake and the champion pines, we headed back to the Boardwalk for the return to the Visitor Center. This eastern side of the Boardwalk is elevated, quite the work of engineering. We were impressed with the pylons, some steel, some wood, that support more than a mile of lumber.

Along the way we passed stands of dwarf palmetto, cousins of the cabbage palmetto, the South Carolina state symbol. There is also a large iron box on the right side of the Boardwalk that is a remnant of the rough and tumble moonshiner days when alcohol was banned by the government. There are also occasional snags, dead trees that are still standing. Hopefully when they fall they don’t crush the Boardwalk.

When we got back to the Visitor Center, we went inside once again to thank the rangers and volunteers for an awesome experience. The park infrastructure, and its trails, are trash free. We did not come upon any along the nearly 10 miles of trails we hiked. The restrooms are clean, the exhibits are informative, and the people are friendly and helpful. What more could you ask for? Oh, the park is free too.

There is plenty more to do at Congaree National Park besides hiking. There are two campgrounds for tent camping only. You can canoe the Congaree River and portions of Cedar Creek. Fishing and wildlife viewing are favorites of many. More than 1,000 varieties of butterflies and moths live here, and yes, there are spiders too.

In the spring and summer, look for wildflowers along the pathways, and fireflies and owls after dark. Really the only negative wildlife are the feral hogs who root the ground for food, damaging the native plants, and the historic sites. The ground near the sloughs showed ample evidence of their presence.

There are 25 miles total of maintained trails within Congaree National Park. Ken and I scratched the surface with our excursion. You can even bring your doggie with you — on a leash. The River Trail and the Kingsnake Trail are longer adventures that go deep into the backcountry of the park’s wilderness. I can assure you we will be back.

Gee, I almost forgot. When you arrive for your visit to Congaree, be sure to check the “skeeter meter” hanging in the breezeway outside the Visitor Center. It will tell you what to expect on that day from the pesky mosquitoes. There are six levels on the meter, ranging from “all clear” (which it was on our visit in late November) to “war zone.” You probably want to wear 10 pounds of repellent as well as netting on those days in the summer.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

The air is nearly always cool at Caesars Head State Park in upstate South Carolina. It sits right on the edge of the Blue Ridge escarpment where refreshing breezes from the piedmont waft up and over the massive walls of rock. This hike is a casual stroll through hardwood forest on a sand and clay pathway to the Matthews Creek gorge and a suspension bridge over the precipice of Raven Cliff Falls. Expect something different, and enjoyable, in each season. I hiked this route to Matthews Creek on Monday, August 28, 2017 beginning at 9:45AM and ending about 1:15PM. My plan was to take Raven Cliff Falls Trail to Gum Gap Trail, then on to Naturaland Trust Trail and its meeting with Matthews Creek, turning around at the foot bridge over Raven Cliff Falls.

One note about the maps above before I get started on the trail report. I forgot to turn on my GPS tracker when I started the hike, remembering only when I was a good two miles into it. So… the track above is only from the suspension bridge back to the trailhead. In other words, it only tracks one direction. Sorry about that.

This hike is part of a longer loop that drops down into Matthews Creek gorge, then steeply climbs the escarpment to the suspension bridge over the creek. This one takes half the time, and a lot less exertion.

The trails used on this hike in Mountain Bridge Wilderness are also part of the much longer Foothills Trail and Palmetto Trail. You will see trail blaze signs identifying each throughout. The first trail, Raven Cliff Falls, starts out with red blaze tree markings. From the parking area you head down a gravel road to meet the single track trail at a water pump house.

It is 1.6 miles from this point to the junction with Gum Gap Trail. Along the way, the sandy path winds through mixed forest. Evidenced by the freshly fallen acorns, hickory nuts and black walnuts on the ground, this is prime habitat for critters who enjoy the mast of the nut trees in late summer and fall. Look too for the occasional long leaf pine.

From experience, I know in winter you can see through the trees to the cliffs and flats that surround Caesars Head State Park. In summer, it is bright green and makes a whishing sound from the perpetual breeze that blows here. The birds too fill the air with sound.

When you reach a series of wooden steps navigating a rocky hillside, you are about 2/3 of the way to the Gum Gap Trail junction. From there you will walk through laurel and rhododendron tunnels and pass outcrops of car-sized rock that make a great place to sit for a snack. When you reach the junction you have a decision.

You can take the left fork, continuing on Raven Cliff Falls Trail another half mile to the viewing platform on the north side of the gorge. For this hike, though, you want to turn right onto blue blazed Gum Gap Trail. It is a half mile over a small hill to another junction where you will turn left — staying on Gum Gap Trail. This junction meets the Foothills Trail and the two combine for several miles into the wilderness.

This new path is a former roadway. It is wider here, and there is occasional gravel denoting that vehicles traveled here at one time. Otherwise, look for stretches of sandy trail mixed with a red clay common to South Carolina and Georgia.

Gum Gap Trail is a mostly easy walk that seems to invite you to explore.

From the left turn it is 1.2 miles to the next junction, this time with Naturaland Trust Trail, blazed in pink. This is your path to Matthews Creek. Turn left onto Naturaland, otherwise you will end up miles away from anything at Gum Gap on the Foothills Trail. Almost immediately you begin the descent to the creek. It isn’t overly steep, but is decidedly downhill.

For the next 0.4 mile the trail descends through the forest while the sounds of the rushing creek below become ever louder. About half way down you’ll make a hard switchback with the creek sounds now on your right. A few minutes later you reach the creek, and the only somewhat dangerous part of this hike.

You’re now hiking over wet granite, and we all know what that means. SLIPPING HAZARD! And believe me, this is a place you don’t want to slip and fall into the creek, because you won’t stop until you are 400 feet below at the base of Raven Cliff Falls. So make sure each step is well planted.

There is a series of cascades on the creek above the major waterfall that are nice for pictures and to splash your face. Be especially careful during the spring runoff period when the water flow will be considerably higher than it is the rest of the year. A visit here in late June-early July will also highlight the stunning rhododendron bloom that lines both sides of Matthews Creek.

This hike ends at the wooden plank and cable suspension bridge that crosses the creek. I found a seat on the bridge to enjoy lunch and look at the vast vista across the gorge. The bridge even swings a little bit in the breeze, and bounces when you walk. Hold on tight.

You can continue beyond the bridge on Naturaland Trust. It dives all the way to the depths of Matthews Creek gorge and comes back up on the other side, forming a large loop with Raven Cliff Falls Trail.

After renourishing, and getting plenty of photos, it was time for the climb back up Naturaland Trust Trail. If you take your time, you won’t get too tired, and it will be over before you know it. That’s what I told myself. It’s less than half a mile. You can do it.

As I wandered back the way I had come, I started seeing other hikers who got a later start than me. There were four couples and two solo hikers. Also, there were more flowers out along the trail now as the air warmed and the sun tried to peek through the forest canopy.

I saw plenty of Joe Pye weed, wild hydrangea, coneflowers and one that was new to me… the asiatic dayflower. Known as commelina communis, this is interesting because it is edible, and because the blooms only last one day. Hence the name, dayflower. No wonder I’d never seen one before.

When I got back to the trailhead I thought to myself how this hike was just right. The weather was perfect with temps in the high sixties, even in August… a cool breeze, and a nice cloud cover. The trails are not difficult by any means, making this 6.7 mile round trip seem somewhat easy. Still, it’s a great way to get some exercise.

The forest along the way is pleasant, full of sights, birds singing, and aromas. The reward at the end — the cascades along Matthews Creek — are definitely worth the time and effort expended. Consider making this hike one of your regular stops. It’s a good one in every season.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Named for an opportunistic traitor who supported the Crown during the Revolutionary War, Paris Mountain State Park was constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the Great Depression. Richard Pearis owned 150,000 acres including what is now Greenville, SC and this state park north of the city. Once no more than a rural retreat, Paris Mountain is now a bustling destination for hikers and mountain bikers who test their conditioning on the park’s mature trail system. In addition to the near 15-mile trail infrastructure, there is plenty else here for the entire family including swimming, fishing and boating in the park’s three reservoirs. I paid a visit to Paris Mountain on Wednesday, March 16, 2016 from 10:00AM to 2:30PM. My plan was to make two loop hikes, the first around Lake Placid at the Park Center. The second is a longer affair that included the Brissy Ridge Trail to Pipsissewa and the path around North Lake, followed by a climb to the top of the park on Kanuga Trail to the old fire tower, and a return on Sulphur Springs Trail.

When I passed through the double-stone gate at Paris Mountain State Park, east of Travelers Rest, South Carolina, the first thought that came to mind was how quaint the park is. It is reminiscent of parks I remember as a boy back when gasoline was still 25 cents a gallon. The building they call Park Center was formerly a bath house, used by recreation seekers who came to swim in the reservoirs that provided water to the growing city of Greenville. The restroom facilities are log houses. There are paddle boats and fishing piers — all of it cast in the forest shade of giant white pines.

I went to the front door of Park Center to pay my $5 entry fee and to buy a trail map (you can also download one here), but much to my surprise, they didn’t open until 11:00am. So with a little less than an hour to kill, I decided to take a stroll around Lake Placid, the primary recreation spot right there at Park Center. This very easy loop around the lake is just 0.8 mile in length and surrounded by oak and pine. I traveled around the shore clockwise, visiting the marshy area on the west end first.

As I rounded the tip and followed the north shore I could hear the unmistakable giggling of children ahead. Sure enough, in a few moments I passed right through the middle of an impromptu nature class conducted by a park ranger to the youngsters lucky enough to enjoy the gorgeous weather on this early spring day. I fondly remembered the rare opportunities I had as a child to do the same thing. It sure beats sitting in a classroom.

On the east end of the lake the trail descends the slope below the stonework dam that contains Lake Placid. Droplets from the overflow were twinkling in the bright mid-morning sunshine. A quick climb back up to surface level continues the circuit to the south side. You cross a boardwalk bridge over Mountain Creek as you pass picnic tables and shelters. I can imagine this place really jumpin’ in the dog days of summer.

The final hundred yards takes you back to Park Center… and how about that… perfect. It was now 11:00 right on the dot. Here are a few photos from my first walk of the day around Lake Placid.

Once inside the visitor center I took care of the financial transactions then asked the employee for some multi-hour trail recommendations. She said my best bet was to drive to the end of the park road at the top of the mountain and begin a large loop on the Brissy Ridge Trail. From there I would have several options for a shorter or longer hike depending on my stamina and endurance. At the least, though, she said I had to pay a visit to North Lake.

The drive along the park road is very picturesque, through groves of pine and assorted cove hardwoods. There are picnic areas seemingly every few hundred yards and trailheads on both sides of the road. All told, there are nearly 15 miles of trails in Paris Mountain State Park and I was hoping to knock off about half of those on this adventure. After a couple miles of twisty, turny steeply uphill driving I reached the parking area for an assortment of trails.

Five different trails take off from here, and there are but nine marked parking places. Even on this Wednesday morning the parking was full. I would learn later a big reason for that was the club group of 20 or more hikers that all arrived together. Well, what to do? I continued farther out the park road and much to my relief there was overflow parking a quarter mile away. At the gate for Camp Buckhorn there are about a dozen parking spots on a hill to the left.

The Brissy Ridge trailhead is at the far western end of the original parking area. There is a large signboard there with a park trail map and other typical warnings and education postings. Brissy Ridge Trail takes off to the right and as its name implies, winds along a ridge through the heart of the forest. It is marked yellow on the trail map and with blaze marks on trees.

The forest is completely different to what I’m used to in the Smokies and Western North Carolina. Mostly pine, and quite sparse, almost even bare, it is typical of this elevation. Everything seemed to me to be very dry… the trail, the woods, the fallen leaves. It has been a few weeks since a good rainfall. After about a mile Brissy Ridge Trail passes Kanuga Trail. This is an option for one of the shorter loops and is preferred by mountain bikers.

After another quarter mile Brissy Ridge meets the green-blazed mile-long Pipsissewa Trail that takes you to North Lake. This trail is more of the same rocky, rooty, almost even dusty trek through a thinly forested ridge line. It descends just a bit into the bowl where North Lake Reservoir is. I passed a couple mountain bikers coming up as I was going down.

I could tell I was approaching North Lake when it finally began to get a little green. There were rhododendron and laurel, and even a few leaf buds just beginning to peep out. There must be water nearby I thought. The grey colored North Lake Loop junction offers a choice for circuiting the lake. I chose the left fork to take the southern shoreline.

Not far past the North Lake Loop junction is this picturesque view looking toward the dam on the eastern end of the lake. The northern suburbs of Greenville are off to the right of this shot.

There are campsites all around North Lake. When I arrived at the one named Rhododendron #5 it was time for lunch. So I took the little spur trail and much to my delight, there was even a picnic table. The photo at the top of this post was taken from my spot for lunch. I could hear voices coming from the west, at the far end of the lake.

When I got back on the trail after lunch, I found where the voices were coming from. There were at least 20 hikers sitting at another campsite at the Kanuga Trail junction. I don’t think they ever saw me as I kind of surreptitiously crept by and took a left on red-blazed Kanuga. The next three-quarters mile is really the only stretch of this loop that requires any exertion. It makes a steady uphill climb of about 600 feet to the highest point in the park.

Fortunately it does so with wide, sweeping switchbacks that surround the mountain. Other than the lakes, I saw the first water on this ascent. There were a few small streams flowing down the drainages to North Lake. As I stopped for the occasional photo op, I was passed by a young woman walking a menagerie of pooches. What a delightful way to spend the day.

I began to notice more and more leaf buds poking out of the tips of the tree branches. Little hints of spring greening popped here and there. As I approached the top of the ridge, I could see North Lake far below and the flowering trees of Greenville subdivision landscaping far in the distance. This would not be available in summer when the view would be obscured by the tree canopy.

At the top of the mountain is a little connector to the Fire Tower Trail. Marked with blue blazes, this trail goes in both directions. I took the right turn to go see what the fire tower was all about. The CCC constructed fire tower is long gone, but the red brick ruins of the four room house used by forest rangers still remain. What also remains is a very high rent district. Perched high on this mountain are several trophy homes that stand sentinel above the community of Travelers Rest. This is the park boundary. It goes without saying that the homes are on private property, so behave yourself.

I sat on the former front porch steps of the ranger dwelling enjoying a snack and pondering life here during the Great Depression. When real estate developers came up the mountain during World War II the fire tower was moved, and the ranger home abandoned. I went back the way I came to take the other fork of Fire Tower Trail and its eventual meeting with Sulphur Springs Trail, one of the more popular mountain biking circuits.

It is pretty obvious that white-blazed Sulphur Springs Trail used to be the road to the fire tower. It is wider, smoother, sandier, and a lot more conducive to mountain bike enjoyment than the very rocky Brissy, Pipsissewa and Kanuga trails. It is also the longest loop within the park at 3.6 miles, but for my purposes it was the final mile-long leg back to the Brissy Ridge parking area. By the time I finished and returned to my car I had done about seven miles on the variety of trails that made up my loop. A good endeavor.

To summarize Paris Mountain State Park, and judging by the number of folks I saw visiting on a mid-week day in March, this must be very popular with the local South Carolina Upstate communities. Not only were there hikers and bikers out on the trails, but nearly every picnic ground had several groups enjoying the beautiful weather. Except for the school field trip, none of them were kids, because it was a school day. So even adults love coming to this little slice of outdoor activity to get away for a few hours.

Located conveniently 10 miles east of Travelers Rest and north of Greenville, it is easy to get to and ideal for the whole family no matter the season. There is an entry fee of $5 per person (half price for kids and discount for SC seniors). You can purchase an annual pass if you plan on visiting frequently. I have not been there during the busy warm-weather seasons, but I suspect it can become crowded. So keep that in mind. I do plan to return to explore the other trails in the central part of the park.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Jones Gap State Park sits on the Blue Ridge Escarpment in upstate South Carolina very near the state line with its neighbor to the north. Along with Caesars Head State Park, these two share an area known as Mountain Bridge Wilderness. The Jones Gap Trail follows the Middle Saluda River along an old roadway built by Solomon Jones in the 1850s. In this cove backcountry the river is quite wild with many waterfalls and rapids that add exciting sights and sounds to a pristine mountain woodland. Near the eastern end of Jones Gap Trail are two remarkable waterfalls. Ken and I visited Jones Gap and Rainbow Falls on January 19, 2012, then again on December 31, 2015. This report combines information and photos from both visits. The plan was to take Jones Gap Trail up the Middle Saluda River to Rainbow Falls Trail, climb to the falls, then return to Jones Gap Trail for the further reach to Jones Gap Falls.

South Carolina State Parks have a voluntary $6 hiking fee, so be sure to register either at the Visitor Center or at the sign box at the parking area. It really helps with trail maintenance, something that has become an issue at Jones Gap because of incessant rain for years now.

It’s about a quarter mile stroll from the parking area at Jones Gap State Park — along the Middle Saluda River, past the Learning Center — to the eastern Jones Gap Trailhead. This trail is also known as the Middle Saluda Passage of the Palmetto Trail (learn more about the Palmetto Trail here and here).

This area of Jones Gap is also an Audobon bird sanctuary and you may be fortunate enough to see a few Great Blue Herons. They tend to hang out along the river near the Visitor Center. On our earlier visit we stopped at the Learning Center and spent nearly a half hour with the park ranger talking about the history and geology of the Jones Gap area. Ranger Lee was extremely informative, and a very nice guy to boot.

Beyond the Learning Center, a foot bridge takes you across the river, past a signboard detailing all the trails in Mountain Bridge Wilderness, and onto the Jones Gap Trail. The blue-blazed trail is slightly uphill as it follows the whitewater of the wild river. When we were here a few years ago, this major trail artery up the gap was in excellent condition, perhaps a little rocky, but otherwise well taken care of. That is not the case now. Rain, year after year, has turned this trail into a sub-drainage of the river, and with it all the mud and erosion that would be expected. Unfortunately, it will be very expensive to repair the drainage problem.

Instead of dwelling on the deterioration of the trail, we focused on the beauty of the Middle Saluda River, including this section where it drops over terrace-like bedrock.

There are 4-5 campsites alongside the trail and the river that make excellent vantage points for views upstream. During the green and warmer months, these sites are usually occupied, so you don’t want to infringe on their privacy. But off season, they’re good for photos of the river like the one above, and perhaps for a snack break.

A little less than a mile upriver, look for red blazes bearing right onto the Rainbow Falls Trail. The Jones Gap Trail continues to the left at the junction and Rainbow Falls bears to the right. Within a couple hundred yards this trail will cross the river on a steel and wood foot bridge and begin the ascent to the north rim of the gorge.

There are two more crossings over Cox Camp Creek, the first across a footlog and the 2nd over a wooden bridge, then the only challenge remaining is the steepness of the terrain. It’s right at about 1,200 feet elevation change from the river to the base of the falls — in only 1.2 miles.

The state park does a great job at routing the trail to minimize overly steep climbing, but it’s still a strenuous endeavor. Hiking in winter, we were able to enjoy views in every direction through the trees that would not be available during leaf season. Across the gap on the south side is the sheer cliff of Little Pinnacle Mountain. Due east is a marvelous view down gap as the Blue Ridge Escarpment ends its long and arduous upheaval. The north rim marks the Continental Divide.

Unfortunately there has been a problem with erosion on this hillside, so there are a few retaining barriers that distract somewhat from the sheer beauty. There was a fire some years ago as well. Keep your eyes open on your left for views of Cox Camp Creek cascading down the steep hillside. It makes quite the descent.

About half way up, the trail takes a turn to the east along a sharp ridge and offers a nice view of the massive stone wall that is Cleveland Cliffs. The trail then passes directly beneath the cliff as it reverses course back to the west. After heavy rain you will notice streams of water hugging the face of Cleveland Cliffs, perhaps a hint that Rainbow Falls would be running fast and furious. We were not disappointed.

Rainbow Falls is spill from Lake Rotary above at the Greenville YMCA camp. It plunges free-fall 100 feet over a precipice, then bounces another few hundred feet over cataract and slide cascades as it drops toward the river below. You can climb directly beneath the falls, but be very, very careful, especially in winter when the surrounding rocks can be quite icy.

The Rainbow Falls amphitheater is surrounded by cliffs, hardwood forest, rhododendron thickets and rugged terrain… all great pleasures for hiking enthusiasts. You do need to watch your step scrambling among the boulders and water. It’s steep terrain and the slightest misstep could land you hundreds of feet below.

This is the splash basin for the major free fall over Rainbow. It then begins more of these lower cataracts, falling precipitously down the drainage to the lower cascades seen from the trail on the way up.

The return to Jones Gap Trail was back the way we came. Since it was still early in the day, we decided to continue in a westerly direction to Jones Gap Falls on our first trip. It seems longer than it looks on the trail map, perhaps 3/4 mile. When you cross the river to a campground on the north side, you are almost there. Jones Gap Falls is a very nice waterfall too, but perhaps just a bit underwhelming after visiting Rainbow Falls.

From this upper falls, the return to the Visitor Center is just a straight shot back down Jones Gap.

On the later trip here, I became ill while climbing the Rainbow Falls Trail. I got to a point just below Cleveland Cliffs and began experiencing vertigo-like symptoms including dizziness and queasy stomach. After spending 20 minutes sitting on a large outcrop trying to hydrate and collect myself, I decided it best to turn around. I knew from previous visits to Rainbow Falls that there was exposure to falling up there, so I thought it in both Ken’s and my best interest to not proceed any further. Why take chances?

As we descended, Ken was a great help keeping an eye on my condition. When we reached river level, it was a big relief for me, and I already felt better. We found one of the campsites for lunch and discussed the experience. Had we never been to Rainbow Falls before, perhaps I would have considered continuing, but after previous visits I knew what to expect. I hated to miss it at this very high flow rate, but safety far outweighs photographs anytime.

Summarizing, the climb up the north face of the gorge to Rainbow Falls is very difficult. You are gaining nearly 1,200 feet in just over a mile. Believe me, that is steep… but it is relatively short. Unfortunately, the condition of the Jones Gap Trail has really deteriorated since my initial visit in 2012. It’s a shame too. The SC State Parks folks had done a wonderful job building it. It is certainly still passable. Just plan on getting your hiking boots muddy. Rainbow Falls is a stunning sight, well worth your effort.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Matthews Creek plunges more than 350 feet over Raven Cliff Falls into the gorge it has carved below Raven Cliff Mountain. One of a myriad of landmarks along the Blue Ridge Escarpment in Caesars Head State Park, the rim of this gorge offers a gentle and rewarding hike. Part of the Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area that also includes Jones Gap State Park, this is the most extensive trail system in South Carolina. More like Western North Carolina than the coastal and central regions, the South Carolina Upcountry is similar in elevation and forest to its northern neighbor. It is less than three hours round trip to a man made platform that peers across the gorge at the magnificent waterfall. Ken an I enjoyed this trail on Wednesday, December 9, 2015 from 10:30AM to 1:00PM. Our plan was to take the Raven Cliff Falls Trail to the falls overlook, then return.

South Carolina State Parks have a voluntary $2 hiking fee, so be sure to register either at the Visitors Center or at the sign box at the parking area. It really helps keep all the trails in great shape, and most of the trails in Mountain Bridge Wilderness are indeed in really great shape.

The Raven Cliff Falls trailhead is across Hwy 276 from the parking area. You may get a little confused at first though, because the trail sign says Foothills Trail, Caesars Head Access. Don’t worry, you’re on the right trail. It is designated trail #11 on the parks map and has a red blaze. It starts out as a downhill gravel road for the first few hundred yards before turning southwest along the ridge.

Oddly enough, every time I’ve hiked this trail (3 times) it has been in the month of December. I need to change that up some so I can see what it looks like in different seasons. In late Fall, with all the leaves down, the forest is highly visible. There is very little ground cover, so you can see all the tree trunks of this mostly cove hardwood forest. You can also see through the trees to the flat lands of Upstate South Carolina.

Most of the time, the view is either to the south or the west. Raven Cliff Mountain blocks the view of the Table Rock massif from this trail, but you can get a stunning view of both Table Rock State Park, and the reservoir there, from the Caesars Head Visitor Center.

The Raven Cliff Falls Trail is wonderfully maintained and easy to navigate. Long stretches of level, root-free track like this one make hiking a cinch for any ability level.

There are stretches of the trail where it really hugs the rim of the escarpment, not a good place to fall because you would probably still be bouncing until you reached Greenville. The trail is plenty wide enough, though, so falling off is extremely unlikely.

About a mile in we encountered three levels of wooden steps that helped with navigating a short steep stretch. Another 1/2 mile later, the Gum Gap/Foothills Trail comes in from the north. This is the Foothills Trail access that was mentioned on the trailhead sign. You can go all the way to Oconee State Park on this trail, 80 miles away.

We continued on the Raven Cliff Falls Trail for another half mile to the junction with Dismal Trail, #12 on the parks map. Dismal Trail will take you deep into the Matthews Creek Gorge, then up the other side to Raven Cliff Falls. Unfortunately, Dismal Trail has been closed for a couple years.

At this junction you want to turn right onto the spur trail to the Raven Cliff Falls Overlook. It’s a very short little up and over of perhaps 300 yards to a nice treated-lumber shelter. There we found an excellent view across the gorge at the full 350 foot drop of Matthews Creek over Raven Cliff Falls.

This overlook shelter is very well done. It’s a good resting spot for the casual hiker who may not be in the best shape, and just wants to view the falls. It’s a great place to get protection from quick moving bad weather. Oh, and did I mention it has an excellent view across the gorge at the full 350 foot drop of Matthews Creek over Raven Cliff Falls? The return trip is just back the same way you came.

I’ve been nursing a minor knee injury for the past few weeks, so this short hike to the Raven Cliff Falls Overlook and back is just what the doctor ordered to test my recovery. I’m happy to report that all went well and I should be able to resume normal hiking by Christmas.

To summarize, if you want to see a really tall, magnificent waterfall in all its glory, you would be hard-pressed to find a more spectacular view than this one of Raven Cliff Falls. This is an all-season and all-family trail. The 4.6-mile length will stretch your legs a bit, but there’s nothing so strenuous that you can’t bring grandma along too. Pack a lunch and enjoy a family picnic at the overlook shelter while being amazed by the incredible view.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

This section of the Palmetto Trail borders the Poinsett Watershed used by the City of Greenville, and roughly follows the North/South Carolina state line. Enjoy a delightful forest hike that winds among the Saluda Mountains as you’re passing through one of the most significant wilderness areas in South Carolina. In 1993, the Greenville Water System conveyed an easement on the property to The Nature Conservancy, forever protecting the wilderness from development. The South Carolina Upstate passages of the Palmetto Trail haven’t yet received much publicity, so you’re likely to have the Saluda Mountains Passage all to yourself. We took this section of the Palmetto Trail on Tuesday, December 16, 2014 between 11:00AM and 2:45PM. The plan was to do a shuttle hike, leaving one vehicle at Talisman Camp on the southwestern end of the passage, and the other where the trail crosses Saluda Road (Old Hwy 25) on the state line.

The drive from Saluda to the state line along Saluda Road is quite scenic. It passes into the Green River Gorge, and follows picturesque creeks and streams while it twists and turns through dense hardwoods that no doubt light up the Autumn season. This time of year, however, all the leaves are down, leaving a stark forest, but also the ability to see what is in there. We left Griztrax’s vehicle at the eastern trailhead, and continued in my car west toward Talisman Camp. It was great to be out with Dave again, and with Grace the Wonder Dawg.

He grew up in this territory, but it was new to me. I had to pay close attention to all the turns we made because I would be driving back home on my own at the end of the day. The camp itself is on Gap Creek Road, while the parking area is a tenth of a mile farther on Anders Road. A large parking lot awaits, with room for at least a dozen cars. The builders of the Palmetto Trail must be expecting this stretch to be popular in the future. At least they’re prepared.

To get to the trailhead, you walk back up the road past the camp, to the junction with Saluda Road. The trailhead is right there on the corner, with plenty of markings. So too is a state line sign. While the Palmetto Trail is officially a South Carolina Mountains to Sea route, this Saluda Mountains Passage hugs the border and crosses into North Carolina several times.

Talisman Programs provide exceptional summer camp opportunities for young people ages 6-22 with Autism Spectrum Disorders, ADHD and other learning differences. Talisman Camp has been offering unique alternatives to ordinary summer camps, providing a structured, nurturing environment within an exciting adventure program in a beautiful rural setting.

The first mile heads mostly north, deep into the quiet woods. The trail passes along the border of, and even through Greenville’s Poinsett Watershed. The watershed provides drinking water to nearly a half-million people in Upstate SC, so you will notice warnings all along the route. For the city to originally agree to this trail, they made rules. As long as you abide, you will be fine, as will the watershed. The trail also parallels some residences and farms, like the one in the picture at the top of this post. So stay on the trail… don’t stray onto private property.

About a mile in, the trail dips into Saluda Gap, then back up again over the course of the next two miles, reaching its highest point of 2,765 feet. Dave and I commented to each other several times how nice the trail is. The builders and the maintainers are to be commended. A few folks got a bit carried away with cairn building, but otherwise this is a joy to hike. The yellow blaze marks of the Palmetto Trail are always in evidence, so the cairns are somewhat redundant.

You’re pretty much following the state line, with Henderson County, NC to your north and Greenville County, SC to the south. You will notice the occasional survey marker as you cross back and forth between the states. Four miles in there are more houses to your left and Bell Mountain Road comes up to the trail. There was a nice resident out working on his tractor who stopped to chat with us for awhile, telling us stories of the origins of the trail. He had been here for 40 years and was delighted to see the Palmetto Trail routed right along his property.

First designed in 1994 by the Palmetto Conservation Foundation (PCF) as the organization’s signature project, the Palmetto Trail was to become one of 16 cross-state trails in the country. It would stretch from the mountains to the sea, march through cities, historic towns and a military base, and wind through marshes and along old railroad trusses. It was supposed to take a decade to build.

Then administrations changed, a recession hit, funding dried up, focus turned elsewhere. Now two decades later, the trail is incomplete, and yet there’s renewed interest by the PCF and business partners to finish the trail as it was designed to be. The mountainous passages in the Upstate are the recipients of this recent renewed vigor.

OK botanists out there. Is the large growth on the tree a burl, or is it a very large hoof conk fungus? If you know, please share in the comments at the bottom of the post. Whatever it is, we were fascinated, and stared for several minutes.

Bell Mountain Road joins a dirt road that becomes the pathway for the next half mile. This is one of the stretches that hasn’t been completed yet, so the Palmetto Trail designers use rural roads or old logging road beds for passage. Where the trail again leaves the road and turns back into a single track, it also takes a decidedly southern turn and begins a significant descent.

Over the next mile there are two sets of switchbacks and stairs that help you navigate the 400 foot drop. The stones used on some of the stairs came from the foundations of old 19th century homesteads in this area. Before we knew it we were out of the woods on Saluda Road and back at Dave’s car. All in all, a thoroughly enjoyable seven miles through the Poinsett Watershed.

I only recently became aware of the Palmetto Trail, and this was the 2nd passage I hiked in back to back weeks. The first was at the far western end at Oconee State Park. I intend to explore the Palmetto Trail further, and if the first two sections I’ve tried are any indication, it should be filled with exciting discoveries, picturesque scenery, and great fun.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

This climb up Station Mountain begins within Oconee Station State Historic Site then passes through Sumter National Forest on the way to Oconee State Park. Along the way you’ll enjoy the 60-foot Station Cove Falls and a botanical preserve inhabited by beaver. The climb is a good workout, as a peaceful hardwood forest and a well-maintained trail lined with switch cane surround you. This is the western end of the Palmetto Trail, a long distance track that passes from the “Dark Corner” of South Carolina all the way to the coast. Oconee State Park is also the western terminus of the Foothills Trail, another cross country pathway that traverses the Carolinas border. We ventured to the Oconee Passage on Friday, December 12, 2014 between 11:00AM and 2:30PM. The plan was to take the Palmetto Trail from Oconee Station to Oconee State Park, from bottom to top, with a stop to see the waterfall.

Originally a military compound and later a trading post, Oconee Station State Historic Site offers both recreational opportunities and a unique look at 18th and 19th century South Carolina. Oconee Station, a stone blockhouse used as an outpost by the S.C. State Militia from about 1792 to 1799, and the William Richards House, are the two structures that remain today.

Beyond the park’s historic significance, there’s a fishing pond and 1.5-mile nature trail that connects hikers to another trail leading into Sumter National Forest and ending at Station Cove Falls. That connection was the beginning of our hike. We also had the privilege of being joined by the Oconee Station park ranger, who just happened to be heading the same way we were. So we got a little education from this very friendly fellow, along with our hiking.

The trail begins slightly downhill, then follows along Station Creek. You will notice the very obvious signs of beaver activity in the area, and as we passed, the creek was quite swollen from the damming done by Nature’s builders. When you cross the creek on a wooden foot bridge, you are entering Sumter National Forest.

Beaver colonies create one or more dams to provide still, deep water to protect against predators, and to float food and building material. The park ranger mentioned at this point that he had never seen Station Creek so swollen. The beavers have obviously been, y’know, busy.

The trail is a beautiful, level pathway through hardwood forest that winds along the creek side. Not far past the foot bridge is a spur trail to Station Cove Falls. It’s perhaps a quarter mile up the creek to this 60-foot multi-tiered cascade. The ranger informed us that there is a lot of wildflower activity in this area is Spring, so you may wish to plan your visit accordingly.

Station Cove Falls is surrounded by a natural amphitheater that makes for a scenic and playful spot. I suspect this is a popular place in summer as you can walk along the rock slab right to the base of the falls. Just be careful, as wet rock can be very slippery. There wasn’t much water flow the day we were there, but there was certainly evidence to suggest this can be a quite impressive display under the right conditions.

Upon returning to the main trail, now your work begins. It is all uphill from here. This is a joint hiking, mountain biking trail, so keep your eyes peeled for bikers potentially coming down the trail. You will navigate a series of sweeping switchbacks that help take the edge off the steepness of the terrain. The ranger told a story of the moonshiners who used to ply their trade up the hollows along Station Creek. Although we didn’t go off trail to look, there are remains of old stills scattered about to this day. We said farewell to the ranger at this point, as he dove into the woods to check out the history himself.

As you get higher, you will begin to notice the abundance of switch cane along both sides of the trail forming the ground cover for the deciduous trees. This native species of bamboo is a perennial grass with a rounded, hollow stem. It tends to grow in colonies known as canebrakes.

The park people were nice enough to put mile markers along the trail to give you an idea of your progress. When the legs and lungs begin to complain, it’s nice to know how much more endurance you need, especially on your first visit.

The trail eventually widens on what used to be known as the old Station Mountain Road. This may have been an Indian trading path during the late 18th century when Oconee Station was established as a garrison. This is the steepest part. I found myself pausing frequently for a 30 second breather. In winter the view through the woods can take your mind off the physical discomfort. With the leaves down, there are views of the surrounding South Carolina Upstate.

This “Dark Corner” of South Carolina was perceived as culturally and politically backwards throughout much of the nineteenth century. In particular, the area’s reliance on illicit moonshine as a cornerstone of its economy led to a protracted conflict with State and Federal law enforcement. Coupled with the Dark Corner’s resistance to modernization, the local inhabitants were ostracized and alienated from much of the economic boom of the Upstate in the 20th century.

The trail along the Oconee Passage is extremely well maintained, as this stretch along the old Station Mountain Road testifies. Notice the switch cane that lines both sides of the pathway.

The trail/road widens even more as it begins to level out at the top of Station Mountain. It is roughly two miles along the total length of this road section of the hike. Eventually you pass the connector to the Foothills Trail, another long distance track that follows mostly along the Carolinas border. In fact, Oconee State Park is the western terminus of both the Foothills and Palmetto Trails. Hang a left at this junction to enter Oconee State Park.

It’s back to single track trail now for the last half mile. The trail makes a slight descent as it passes near remnants from old Civilian Conservation Corps activity. It finally pops out to a large parking area with several sign boards that mark the trailheads for the two major pathways that begin here. Ken and I found a comfortable seat for some lunch while studying the various informational boards scattered throughout. One thing we learned was that this Palmetto Trail is the first non-motorized connection between Oconee State Park and Oconee Station at the other end.

After a nice rest and nourishment, we began the return trip. This was an up and back hike, so of course most of the return was down hill, a nice relief. When we got back to the car, we made a stop at Oconee Station to thank the ranger for our visit, and his information, and to check out the historic buildings that remain on the site. These 18th century buildings are on the National Register of Historic Places. The ranger informed us that they stage re-enactments periodically on the site, including one that will be coming up in February, 2015.

In summary, we had a delightful day at Oconee. We saw a picturesque waterfall, got some great exercise, and learned quite a bit of local history from a very kind and friendly park ranger. Our initial experience with the Palmetto Trail was a good one, and I expect to begin knocking out additional sections in the near future. I definitely recommend taking your entire family at least to see Oconee Station and Station Cove Falls, and you could enjoy it any time of year.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.