I like to do most of my summertime hiking in the high country to avoid the heat, and the bugs. It’s like getting extra, added months of spring. So when the first week of summer rolled around, I thought of that section of Pisgah National Forest that lies between Shining Rock and Middle Prong Wildernesses, surrounded by the Blue Ridge Parkway, Hwy 215, and Black Balsam Road.

You can make a very nice 9-mile loop out of the Flat Laurel Creek Trail and the Mountains to Sea Trail, staying between 5,000-6,000 feet elevation the whole way. There is still a wide variety of wildflowers hanging on in late June, including the last of the mountain laurels, plenty of daisies, and the very interesting ninebark bush. I even found a surprising grouping of spring beauties hidden deep within the forest, likely the latest I have ever seen these tiny appropriately-named delights. The St. John’s wort was also just beginning to open its buds.

This visit was on June 25, 2017. I arrived at 10:00AM after a trash pickup at my Parkway Adopt-an-Overlook. For the next six hours I enjoyed just about every variety of forest that Western North Carolina has to offer. I’ve always loved this hike for its variety. The weather was perfect, about 60° when I started and 64° with a light breeze at the end. Can’t beat that! Enjoy my photos from the Land Between Two Wildernesses.

Please feel free to leave your comments and suggestions below the gallery. Thanks for visiting!

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Love the high country in summer. It’s like getting an extra month of spring. For much of its length through the Western North Carolina mountains, the Mountains to Sea Trail parallels the Blue Ridge Parkway. There is an area near mile marker 434 on the Parkway, beneath Old Bald, where the MST winds through mixed forest and high mountain meadows teeming with wildflowers. The air is cool and the vistas impressive here in the Great Balsam Mountains. There are also plenty of old logging roads making this playground one that is suited for exploration. The region is adjacent to the Nantahala Game Lands, so be aware of seasonal hunters, otherwise you are likely to have the trail all to yourself. Dave and I explored the Mountains to Sea Trail beneath Old Bald on Friday, July 8, 2016 beginning at 10:00AM and ending about 12:45PM. Our plan was to take the Mountains to Sea Trail to Old Bald Ridge and Earl Ammons meadow, then return.

We started our day by driving up Scenic Hwy 276 through Pisgah National Forest and up the Pisgah Ridge to the Blue Ridge Parkway. From there it was 21 miles of picturesque mountain scenery to our destination. Along the way we stopped at overlooks for pictures and breathtaking views. Some of the sights we stopped to look at included Pilot Mountain, the Middle Prong watershed, the Cowee Mountains, and the highest point on the BRP at Richland Balsam. We were already having a delightful day even before we hit the trail.

The trailhead for this stretch of the Mountains to Sea sits in a blind hairpin curve at mile 434.2 on the Parkway. It isn’t a formal overlook, merely a grassy area beside the roadway with just enough room for two cars. Be careful when you pull over because of the blind curve. Traffic could be coming the other way. You will know you have the right spot if you see an iron t-bar about 30 feet up the trail.

It was great to have Dave’s friendly companion Grace the Wonder Dawg back on the trail with us. Grace had been nursing a sore paw for a few weeks, so I was happy to see she was back… ready and raring to go.

High above you on the north side of the Parkway are the sheer granite cliffs of Old Bald. The trail immediately dives into a mixed forest and then turns south. After about a hundred feet, the Mountains to Sea Trail comes up from below on your right, and the trails merge. Watch for white blaze marks and the occasional concrete trail marker to stay on the MST.

The first half mile into the woods I’m going to call the monarda trail. Lined on both sides were hundreds of white and lavender monarda wildflowers, also known as bee balm or bergamot. Some people even call it horse mint. There is bound to be quite a history for this flower to have so many names. We also began to notice the first of what would become many phlox.

Watch for the occasional campsite alongside the trail. If you’re an MST thru-hiker or simply looking for a quiet place to settle down in the high mountain woods, these sites are really ideal.

Just past a half mile we reached an obvious fork in the road, so to speak. There were no trail markers, but it was obvious from previous traffic that there was a choice here. We knew from talking to Rich and Cindy that the MST plunged through a mountain meadow on the left heading eastward. But we wanted to explore a larger field that we could see less than a mile away toward the south. So we opted for the right fork.

As we progressed, this path was more and more grown up with tall plants bending over our route. We reached a very large campsite, with enough flat area to support perhaps 4-5 tents, then continued straight ahead. But not for long. Eventually the trail just petered out. You can see our dead end on the GPS trail map above. So we backtracked past the campsite, and found a grassy forest road heading to the east.

Within a quarter mile we came to a junction of grassy forest roads, and a dirt trail heading steeply uphill. While standing there trying to get our bearings, we decided to check out all three. After all, today was a day of exploration. We took a hard right turn onto the south fork and passed by a wonderful stand of pine and hemlock that is refilling the forest since the logging days.

We were going decidedly down, even to the point of becoming seemingly lower than the open field that was our goal. But we pressed on. The side of the trail was awash in wildflowers including phlox and daisies, fire pink and yarrow, even a few remaining flame azalea. Knowing for every foot you decline, you have to climb back up, we paused when reaching a sweeping turn in the road to the east. It seemed to us that would take us away from our destination. So we decided to turn around.

Too bad. Because looking at the satellite view of the GPS map above after getting back home, all we needed to do was continue around that curve in the grassy road and we would have been right there on Old Bald Ridge. Oh well, live and learn. And now we have the desire to make a return trip soon.

The trail was lined with a treasure trove of wildflowers.

We made it back to the grassy road junction and decided to take the eastward road this time. We went about a quarter mile, hoping to see open vistas to the south, but the trail remained tree lined. So we turned around once again. Looking at the map later, we could see that this road meets up with the Mountains to Sea Trail about 2-3 miles farther to the east. Another option for the future.

Now we were back at the grassy road junction to try the dirt trail up the mountain. It’s very steep, but we hoped also very short, and it was. Within 100 yards we reached another grassy road alongside a rounded knob that was open meadow. I decided to plow through the tall grass and other “meadowy stuff” to look for the Mountains to Sea Trail. My exploration was rewarded as I discovered that this was the Earl Ammons meadow and that the MST crossed at the top.

So I went down to collect Dave and Grace, and we all ventured back up to the outcrop in the center of the field. Earl Ammons apparently liked to hunt here. It seems he liked it so much that his family embedded a plaque in the stone in his honor. The outcrop was a perfect place for lunch. Grace lapped up nearly a quart of water in just a few minutes.

The weather had been delightful all morning, cool mountain air and a bit of a breeze. Suddenly now, the sky began to look a little threatening off to the west and south. We kept a close eye out while enjoying our sandwiches, not wanting to get caught in this open meadow at 5,400 feet in a thunderstorm.

The views from Earl’s meadow are stunning. You are surrounded by the high mountains of the Great Balsam Range in all directions. The meadow was awash in summer wildflowers accentuating the experience. I caught the aroma of spruce and pine, and immediately understood why Earl loved this place.

Fortunately bad weather held off, so after 20 minutes or so we continued our trek eastward on the Mountains to Sea Trail. We entered an extremely dark rhododendron tunnel. The ground was covered with teeny, tiny white mushrooms. The farther we went, the more the wispy ground cover began encroaching on the trail. We knew from Cindy and Rich that there was another meadow farther out there, but with the potential for bad weather and the overgrown trail, we decided to turn around once more.

But we know how to get there now… either this way on the MST, or taking the eastward fork at the grassy road junction prior. Once we do this hike again, I will post a better map and more clear directions. It probably seems like we are a couple of hiking goofballs, but this day was just one of exploration. We are Meanderthals after all. A longer hike is definitely in our future now that we know the lay of the land.

We returned back through Earl’s meadow, and then up the drainage past the higher, smaller first meadow. Once we were back on top of the ridge it was a simple matter of retracing our steps back to the car. On the way back home, we dropped off the Parkway on Hwy 215 and took a country road to Canada, NC and Lake Toxaway.

Summarizing, this section of the Mountains to Sea Trail beneath Old Bald has the potential to be a truly stellar adventure. The views are absolutely magnificent. The wildflowers are robust in summer… probably in spring too. The region is laced with retired logging roads through the forest that offer of wealth of options for discovery. There is a continuous stretch of the MST from Doubletop Overlook on the Parkway to Bearpen Gap that would be a great shuttle hike, or overnight out and back. My sincerest thanks to Cindy and Rich for turning us on to this remarkable place.

Enjoy the pictures!

Update September 14, 2016: Time for another visit to this picturesque mountain location on the Blue Ridge Parkway and Mountains to Sea Trail beneath the shadow of Old Bald. The weather was near perfect for hiking and photographs, and we were able to explore some of the terrain that we missed on the previous visit, including a giant meadow.

I would add one warning for hiking this area in September — BEWARE OF YELLOW JACKETS! The warning probably holds true anywhere in the Smokies and Blue Ridge. September is mating season so the yellow jackets are excitable, angry, and aggressive.

I’ve included another GPS track for the additional trails we explored, and a new photo gallery below the map.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Looking for a short, easy, serene getaway in the high country that offers outstanding long distance views of the Blue Ridge Mountains? This is the trail for you. This little stretch of the famous Mountains to Sea Trail will take you from Black Balsam Road, through a dark and deep balsam spruce forest, across Silvermine Bald and on to Chestnut Bald to a splendid overlook of Looking Glass Rock, Pilot Mountain, and Pisgah National Forest’s Cradle of Forestry. If you have your binoculars or a zoom lens, you can see all the way to Lake Jocassee in South Carolina, and to the Black Mountains northeast of Asheville. This is one of my go to trails when I just want to sit and meditate for awhile. Thisvisit was on Wednesday, October 21, 2015 from 12:00 noon to 2:30PM. My plan was to take the MST to Chestnut Bald, then return.

Just to make sure you know where this is, when you drive up Black Balsam Road from the Blue Ridge Parkway the trailhead is on the left. Most hiking in this area occurs on the right side of the road, but this one goes toward the south.

The trails starts out through a very dark black balsam spruce forest, one that would be easy to walk in circles if not for the white blaze marks on the trees. So be sure to look for the markings or you could become disoriented quite fast.

After a quarter mile you’ll pop out into a clearing with a view of the majestic Black Balsam Knob behind you. There are occasional primitive campsites sprinkled about, made apparent by the unsightly fire rings.

The giant trees change to bushes for a few hundred yards, mostly blueberry. It’s fun to watch these shrubs evolve through the seasons, starting as bright green in spring, developing their fruit in late summer, changing to a fire engine red in autumn, then losing their leaves completely in October. That is the stage I found them in on this recent trip.

You will then enter another spruce forest as the trail moves over to hug the rim of the cliffs high above the Blue Ridge Parkway. You will no doubt hear the traffic far below you, especially those dang noisy Harley Davidsons that are so common on the Parkway. We try to keep pollution away from our eyes and noses. It would be nice to reduce the ear pollution as well.

Watch for the occasional short side trail on the left that will take you to small overlooks of Pisgah National Forest stretched out in front of you to the south and east. But you ain’t seen nothin’ yet.

For example, this view of Looking Glass Rock is from one of the spur trails on Silvermine Bald.

If you’re here in Spring, among the wildflowers to look for along the trail are multi-colored trillium as well as pink shell azalea. You’re also likely to find plenty of moss and lichens during all seasons, including the unusual reindeer lichen that normally grows in Canada, but was deposited here in the Blue Ridge and Smokies high country during one of the Ice Ages.

Just about a mile into your hike you will come to the junction with the Art Loeb Trail along the rim of Silvermine Bald. It is climbing up from the Blue Ridge Parkway far below. Turn right here to stay on the Mountains to Sea Trail. Soon after the trail makes a hundred foot descent into a gap and a small meadow. Folks use this meadow as another primitive campsite. In summer you are likely to find turk’s cap lilies growing here.

On the far side of the meadow you will climb back up the hundred feet you dropped before. Keep your eyes peeled on the left for the very large rock outcrop that denotes your arrival at Chestnut Bald overlook, the destination for this trail report. Unlike the other bald mountaintops that are so common in Western North Carolina like Roan Mountain, Max Patch, and even Black Balsam, Silvermine Bald and Chestnut Bald really no longer are. Bald, that is.

But they do have these wonderful natural overlooks that I think are among the most picturesque viewpoints in all of Pisgah National Forest. From this outcrop on Chestnut Bald you can see the cliffs plunging below Silvermine Bald to your left, with the north and west faces of Looking Glass Rock jutting up from the valley below. Directly in front of you is the long spine of Shuck Ridge leading to the pointed top summit of Pilot Mountain.

If you squint your eyes, on a clear day you can see Lake Jocassee 40 miles away in South Carolina. You can’t see it because of trees, but directly to your right is the massive stone face of Devils Courthouse. I almost always enjoy a meal here, and totally relax. The beauty of the scenery calms and soothes me. When I simply want to get away for a few hours from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, I like to come here.

This is the view to the east from Chestnut Bald overlook. I think it’s one of the best around.

I have been sitting at this spot when the entire panorama was engulfed in fog. I could still envision what I knew to be there. So strong is my remembrance of the beauty of the scene that I can picture it with my mind’s eye. I have been here every season except winter. The Blue Ridge Parkway here in the high country is closed in winter. But there is a means to access this spot with a longish hike from Hwy 215. Perhaps this coming winter I will treat myself.

If you continue straight ahead on the Mountains to Sea Trail beyond Chestnut Bald, it eventually does spill out onto Hwy 215, then resumes on the other side of the road into the Middle Prong Wilderness. But on this day I was content to enjoy the serenity offered by my seat on the eons-old granite of my favorite outcrop, then turn around.

On the way back, the sun angle had changed so I took some more pictures, and took my time. I did encounter a young couple with backpacks who were no doubt planning an overnight in the wilderness. Their black lab seemed very excited by the opportunity. I can’t blame him. But these were the only other folks I saw all day. That is until I got into the mess of leaf peepers on the Parkway.

To summarize, this is a very nice hike that isn’t at all difficult, but will enable you to see some of the best views that Pisgah National Forest and the Blue Ridge Parkway have to offer. You might want to leave the toddlers at home for this one because there is some exposure to cliff edges. So too if you have an extreme fear of heights. The overlooks can be somewhat frightening.

Otherwise, this one is short and easy for the whole family. It’s a great seasonal hike too. If I make it in winter this year, I will come back here to share my experiences and hopefully post some pictures of the white stuff. Y’know, all those crazies getting in the traffic jam at Graveyard Fields can have it. I’ll take my favorite little hike all by myself.

Update May 3, 2016: Spring comes to the high country too. It’s later than down in the valleys, but this visit treated me to the earliest of the wildflowers and the first greening of the new season. It’s neat too, peering into the much greener lowlands. The weather was ideal, in the sixties all day with a nice breeze. Once the typical morning fog lifted, all the cloud cover was above the endless ridges that stretch far, far away. Here are some new photos for your enjoyment, including a really out of place peony that was growing on a hillside.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Hiking among the giants of the East. That’s what you’re doing when you take the Blue Ridge Parkway to Mt. Mitchell State Park for this trek on the Mountains to Sea Trail in the Black Mountains. With fabulous views of the Blacks and the Great Craggy Range, and closeup experiences with gnarly old growth fir and spruce krummholz, this stretch of the MtS is some of the best of the North Carolina high country. The trail climbs through ancient forest, past moss-covered granite outcrops, to the crest of the ridge and Blackstock Knob summit. From here you can almost reach out and touch Mt. Mitchell, the tallest peak in the East. Descend to Balsam Gap, then return on perhaps the most scenic stretch along the entire length of the Parkway. We thoroughly enjoyed this hike on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 beginning at 11:00AM and ending about 5:30PM. Our plan was to take the Mountains to Sea Trail from Mt. Mitchell State Park across Blackstock Knob and down to Balsam Gap, then return along the Blue Ridge Parkway.

This majestic hike could easily be accomplished as a shuttle, or two-car excursion as there is convenient parking at each end of the trail. The big problem, though, is the extreme remote nature of Mt. Mitchell State Park. It is only accessible via the Blue Ridge Parkway, and it’s at least an hour drive from Asheville, or any other town nearby. So using two cars would involve quite a bit of fuel. You decide. It’s 5.9 miles one way, or 11.3 miles as a loop.

We chose to begin the hike from the Mt. Mitchell end as climbing to the ridge crest is more gradual. Once seeing the descent at the Balsam Gap end, I think we made the correct decision. The trailhead for the Mountains to Sea Trail is about a half mile up Hwy 128 into Mt. Mitchell State Park. Look closely to your left as you approach, because it isn’t especially easy to notice. There is a small gravel pullout on the right side of the road with enough room for three tightly bunched vehicles.

The trail starts out heading due south and uphill for a quarter mile, then levels out and makes a hard turn northwestward. We noticed immediately that someone had been through very recently with a scythe or weed eater, making the trail extremely easy to navigate. It was also apparent that a lot of time and love had been put into appropriate rock placement and trail tread leveling to ease the ascent.

On our way up the Parkway from Asheville in the morning, when we reached the high country past Craggy Gardens, the roadway was lined with an assortment of wildflowers that would make the NC Arboretum proud. Our first wildflower on the trail was a stunning Turk’s Cap. Usually orange in color, this one was nearly red and stood almost shoulder height. Obviously, a mature plant. Our wildflower experience was just beginning.

At roughly a half mile into the hike, the trail pops out of the forest and opens up the entire expanse of the Asheville Watershed. To the south are Greybeard Mountain and Brushy Knob. To their west the Burnett Reservoir, and further west the twin peaks of the Great Craggy Mountains: Craggy Dome and Craggy Pinnacle. Climbing a little farther up the face of Potato Knob, we reached a parapet-like outcropping that showed us the winding pathway taken by the Blue Ridge Parkway to reach those landmarks.

While sitting on the outcropping enjoying the grand view and a snack, we could now hear the sound of a motorized weed eater not far above us. Darn! That meant the nicely mown path would be ending soon. Sure enough, 10 minutes later we encountered the intrepid (and tired) worker and thanked him profusely for his efforts. We chatted with Mike Williams of the Carolina Mountain Club for awhile and learned that he is frequently up here in the Blacks doing much appreciated trail maintenance.

As coincidence would have it, we also met the only other hiker we would see on this day, coming the other direction. Thinking our way forward would now be surrounded by waist high grass and weeds, we said our farewell to Mike and pushed onward.

Soon afterward, we re-entered the forest, and were rewarded with short ground cover alongside the trail. And it remained that way throughout. Our timing had been perfect. The worst of the tall grass had already been taken care of by Mike.

We also began climbing again, now rather steeply, up the south face of Potato Knob toward the ridge crest on the knob’s west flank. Rather large outcroppings were scattered about, covered in moss and lichens, a result of the hundreds of inches of rainfall that occur in this region each year. Grace, my companion’s black & tan hound, was thoroughly enjoying herself. The scents were doggie nirvana.

We began noticing teeny, tiny white growths poking just a few inches out of the ground. Seemingly part floral and part fungus, Dave informed me these are known as indian pipe. They grow where the soil is very moist, push their way through fallen evergreen needles and lichens, and stay together in clusters. There were literally hundreds over the next mile of trail. It seems every time I foray into the wilderness I learn about something new, and on this day it was indian pipe. Dave said he had never seen so many in one area before.

When you reach the ridge crest, the trail levels out, then roller coasters for a mile or more. You’re above 6,000 feet now and will likely notice it in your breathing. The forest is amazing here. You’re surrounded by spruce and fir krummholz, and if you look closely, amid the moss and lichens you will find dozens of little micro gardens with various hues of mushrooms and other fungus springing from the moist rotting wood. We also found the first turtleheads of summer and pockets of chickweed hugging the stone outcrops.

Upon reaching the low point along the ridge at Rainbow Gap, we began looking for a meadow off to the north, a tip Mike had given us. He said there is a Cessna crash site less than a hundred yards off the trail. Sure enough, we found the fern and St. John’s Wort adorned meadow, and then the wreckage at the southeast corner. The cockpit and left wing were still somewhat intact, but all the instruments and the rest were long gone. It was obvious the pilot had missed the gap by mere feet.

Returning to the trail, we were now looking for a place to have lunch. The next stretch of trail up Blackstock Knob is the hardest of the hike. It’s about 325 feet of elevation gain from Rainbow Gap to the summit, all steep. By the time we found a nice spot to eat, we were definitely needing the rest, and the nourishment. The moss on the summit is incredible. I found one fallen log that I counted five different species of moss on, and it was more than an inch thick.

Continuing westward, occasionally the forest would open to the north for just a faint peek at the Black Mountains Range nearby. Suddenly the peeking became a full-blown view when we reached what I would call a photographer’s overlook. The trail maintenance crew had carved out a small pathway through the brush right to the precipice of the ridge. The full length of the Blacks was directly in front of us, with the Big Tom Preserve down below. The scene is sensational, and is the photo at the top of this post. Normally I’m not a fan of trail crews destroying living plants, but in this case I think the view was well done.

We were really beginning to wonder when this trail would start heading down. The summit of Blackstock Knob is 6,330′ and the elevation at Balsam Gap is 5,320′. So we had a thousand feet of drop ahead with not much trail left. Sure enough, the descent began in earnest.

A seemingly endless series of switchbacks helped make it easier on the knees and ankles, but this is serious downhill. Dave mentioned that on a previous visit to this trail he had come up from Balsam Gap. Worn out when he reached Blackstock Knob, he decided to turn around. I can see why. I’m glad we started at the other end.

Finally after about 20 minutes of continuous down, down, down we popped out on the Blue Ridge Parkway at Balsam Gap. It had taken us four hours to get here from the other end. Granted we stopped for lots of pictures and such, but four more hours back didn’t seem like a good idea. Dave suggested we walk back on the Parkway to make this a loop, and he didn’t hear any complaints from me.

By the way, there is another trailhead at the Balsam Gap pullout besides the Mountains to Sea. It is called the Big Butt Trail. It follows Brush Fence Ridge to Point Misery and beyond and supposedly has dazzling views of the Black Mountains from across the valley that is the Big Tom Preserve. Just another hike for another day. It is so wonderful to live in Western North Carolina.

Well, we still had nearly five miles back on the Parkway, and then that last half mile up Hwy 128 in the state park back to the car. Might as well get started. Walking on the road is certainly easier, and quicker, than hiking over roots and rocks in the forest, but there’s still quite a bit of stamina-draining uphill. What made it so much easier to endure was all the wildflowers.

Along the way, I saw daisies, and coneflowers, and black-eyed susans; bee balm, and geraniums, and turk’s cap. I even saw the first goldenrod of the season. Yep, in the high country it pops out even in late July. Rounding one curve in mile 357, we could see the outcrop high above where we had stopped earlier for a snack.

The Parkway is very impressive here. The work that was accomplished by the builders more than 70 years ago is truly amazing. I think this 10-mile stretch from Craggy Gardens to Mt. Mitchell is some of the most beautiful along the full 469-mile length. There wasn’t much gas left in my tank for that final trudge up Hwy 128, but six and a half hours after starting, we finished.

Best Hike Let’s summarize. You should definitely do this hike. The high country forest is luscious, and the mountain vistas on both sides of the ridge are stunning. Even if you don’t go all the way to Balsam Gap and back, consider trying at least part of this section of the Mountains to Sea Trail for a fine example of what WNC hiking is all about. I would call this one a Best Hike.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Back to Rough Butt Bald Overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway, and another visit to the Mountains to Sea Trail. The MST follows, or remains close to the Parkway through much of Western North Carolina, so there are a number of easily accessible jumping off points that head into the backcountry. Middle Prong Wilderness was designated in 1984 and spans rugged high-elevation ridges with old growth forest and grassy balds like Fork Ridge. This is a short out-and-back hike in the high country that explores murky, mossy evergreen forest on its way to the sedge and oat grass western slope of Fork Ridge. The hike occurred on Thursday, April 18, 2013 from 9:10am to 11:35am. My plan was to take the Mountains to Sea Trail at Rough Butt Bald Overlook to the junction with Green Mountain Trail on Fork Ridge, then return the same way.

I started the day by picking up trash at my “Adopt an Overlook” spot on the Blue Ridge Parkway. For the most part, those who travel the Parkway are good about litter. Most want the Parkway to remain beautiful for all to enjoy. I will usually find about a half dozen beer bottles and cans over the hillside though, and there are always 40-50 cigarette butts to pick up after the motorcycle riders who pause along their journey for a smoke break. With that done, it was onward to Rough Butt Bald.

This makes the third trail report here at Meanderthals that starts at the Rough Butt Bald Overlook. First we took you down Buckeye Gap and back up Haywood Gap, then showed you how to access Rough Butt Bald itself. That’s the great thing about the Mountains to Sea Trail. There are a number of spokes or cogs that spin off the MST enabling deeper exploration of the surrounding forests and wilderness.

The access trail from the Blue Ridge Parkway into the forest is just on the other side of the road from the Rough Butt Bald Overlook. You will cross a small stream and go no more than a couple hundred yards before coming to the Mountains to Sea Trail at Buckeye Gap. The photo at the top of this post was taken at this junction. Turn to the left to take the hike to Rough Butt Bald mentioned above, or take a right as I did and head into the heart of Middle Prong Wilderness. In fact, you’ll come to the wilderness boundary sign in just a matter of minutes.

The Mountains to Sea Trail is always blazed with white markings, but you will notice once you enter Middle Prong Wilderness that this stretch also has orange ribbons hanging from tree branches just overhead. It’s a little off-putting, but I suspect the ribbons are there to aid with snowshoeing when the ground is snow covered. That certainly wouldn’t have been a problem this past winter.

The forest here is unlike any other in Pisgah National Forest, except perhaps in the Black Mountains. It is mostly to do with the elevation. This is a totally evergreen forest with multiple species of pine, spruce, fir, even some old hemlocks that were killed by the woolly adelgid infestation. There is old growth spruce, some as tall as 70-80 feet, with trunks 30″ in diameter.

But the green doesn’t stop with the trees. Everything that has fallen to the ground is covered with a thick carpet of moss and lichens, many decades old, making for a spongy understory. Colorful fungus attaches itself to the trunks of the old trees. Hanging mosses are in the higher limbs. It’s a verdant playground.

The forest is extremely thick and dense, sometimes making navigation of the trail a bit dicey. There are exposed roots everywhere. They are quite slippery, especially on days like this one following a prolonged rain. Another feature common in the month of April up in the high country is the near constant fog layer. This murky air also contributes a general dampness to the terrain. Combine that with a number of creek crossings, and let’s just say it’s important to watch your step.

The trail hangs on a ridge, with the shadow of the imposing 6,110 foot Mt. Hardy to your right and the steep drainage from Buckeye Creek and other small streams to the left. I saw no evidence of wildflowers yet. Still a little too early in the season for this elevation. Regardless, there is still a remarkable beauty.

About a mile and a half into the hike you’ll come to an unmarked fork in the trail. The left path takes the Buckeye Gap Trail down into the depths of Middle Prong. I’ve written about that hike before. The right fork continues the Mountains to Sea Trail in an easterly direction to Fork Ridge.

Not long afterward you will reach the grassy bald western slope of Fork Ridge. Grassy balds are relatively blunt summits covered by dense native grasses. Grassy balds are normally found at the summit of hills, but can also be found on broad upper slopes. Such is the case with this area of Fork Ridge. The trail skirts the bald so I continued on with a plan of climbing the grassy slope on the way back.

Next I came to a moist squishy mountain bog zone. The trail is supported by small logs and rocks to keep it from completely succumbing to the bog. It’s a good idea to have waterproof hiking shoes through here as you are guaranteed to step in mud and quag in this scenic wetlands area.

This last quarter mile is really the only part of the trail that does much climbing. Even so, it is still quite moderate as you push up Fork Ridge. You will again enter a dense forest, then come to a junction with the Green Mountain Trail heading off to your left (north). If you’re curious, you can read about that hike as well. You must treat yourself some day. It is one of the best hikes in the region.

This trail junction was my turnaround point for the day. I’d had a little bout with dehydration a couple days prior, so I didn’t want to push my luck and over do it. Besides, I still wanted to climb the grassy bald on the way back.

I tip-toed my way back down through the wetlands, managing to avoid any nasty slips or falls. You may have noticed up top that I took nearly two and a half hours to go four miles. Part of that was stopping frequently for pictures, but some of it was simply being very careful in the wet and slippery stretches I encountered. I’m not as nimble as I used to be… also not as dumb.

When I reached the western slope of Fork Ridge I started up through the tall grass in a northerly direction. This was the perfect time of year to do this traverse. There was no winter snow, and also no summer briars and stickers. The grass was quite wet, so my pant legs worked to repel the moisture. But the turf below was surprisingly firm. I expected it to be seeping, but apparently it drains quite well.

Since I was by this way half an hour earlier, an even heavier fog layer had moved in. I rounded the ridge top and could see the northern side ahead, but I didn’t want to get too far away from the trail in case I got disoriented in the gloom. There are a few small trees, as well as some rocky outcroppings, all surrounded by luscious greening grass. The outer rim of the bald clearing is ringed by stunning spruce trees that will one day be giants. I found a nice flat rock to sit on and enjoyed a snack and the peaceful arena.

On the return trip, I kept my eyes peeled for little spur trails that might lead to campsites. I found probably a half dozen primitive sites 50-100 feet off the main trail. There was one particular site that is encircled by immature beech trees that is quite charming. The tent bed lies under four old growth spruce that provide shelter from the elements, and the beech ring adds an array of color that makes this enchanting. If you’re an MST thru-hiker you might keep this in mind.

I also followed Buckeye Creek a short way off the ridge as it spilled swiftly to its appointment with Middle Prong. As is so common in the Western North Carolina mountains, the creek carves its way over layer upon layer of granite leaving a number of two foot waterfalls in its wake.

As I approached the Blue Ridge Parkway, I wasn’t hearing any traffic at all. No doubt an effect of the heavy fog that was keeping the tourists at lower elevation. Later, it was a little tough driving down out of the high country.

To summarize, I found this to be a totally enjoyable and easy hike. The fog that followed me all morning added an eerie sense of adventure to an already striking scenery. Every hike I’ve done in Middle Prong Wilderness has been exceptionally picturesque. There’s just something about the botany, topography and pallet of the high country that makes it extremely appealing to me. Wear some waterproof shoes and pants, and be careful on the slick roots, and you can have a beautiful brief departure from your journey along the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Update August 31, 2015: It was time to get back into the high country on a hot, late summer day. I was rewarded with cool, damp air that remained in the 60s all day long… near perfect for hiking. Best of all, unlike my first foray to Fork Ridge, the air wasn’t permeated with fog and I could actually see the forest around me.

Much like any time I visit the Blue Ridge Parkway, I always stop at my Adopt-an-Overlook to pick up trash. The 10-mile trip on the Parkway after that to Rough Butt Overlook was picturesque as usual. You simply can’t beat the Blue Ridge Parkway as a scenic drive, whether for ten miles or 400. I am so fortunate to have it in my own backyard.

I was solo on this day, enjoying the serenity offered by Middle Prong Wilderness. I heard the occasional howl of the hound dogs, out for tracking practice before hunting season begins. I only encountered one other hiker, an Asheville backpacker who was on his third day in the wilderness. Contrast that to the mayhem at next-door Shining Rock Wilderness this time of year when the blueberry pickers invade the hillsides en masse.

While you study the new photos, compare and contrast the seasonal and weather changes. Enjoy.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Quite frequently in winter, the Blue Ridge Parkway will be closed for snow and ice. Not great fun for those who wish to drive along the beautiful ridges. Ah — but it’s the perfect time for hikers to get out on the trails that parallel the Parkway — like the Mountains to Sea. Between Pigeon Gap and Bennett Gap at miles 412-414 the Mountains to Sea Trail traverses a ridge that crosses Green Knob, a 5,000 footer that splits Haywood and Transylvania counties. South of Green Knob is the Parkway itself, as well as the Cradle of Forestry and Looking Glass Rock. To the north is the full expanse of Shining Rock Wilderness and the majestic Cold Mountain. The leafless trees of winter enable magnificent views on both sides of the ridge. This hike occurred on Wednesday, January 2, 2013 from 10:00am to 1:05pm. Our plan was to walk the closed Blue Ridge Parkway from Hwy 276 to Pigeon Gap, then hop on the Mountains to Sea Trail up and over Green Knob to Bennett Gap, completing the loop by returning on the Parkway.

It’s fun to walk on the Blue Ridge Parkway knowing there won’t be any cars or motorcycles coming. Not to mention how much quieter it is. On this day my companion and I headed up Hwy 276 to the Pisgah Ridge to do some parkway hiking. The Mountains to Sea Trail follows the Parkway nearly all the way from Great Smoky Mountains National Park to the Asheville corridor and beyond. So you can almost always find a short hike anywhere you are on the Parkway. I encourage the car tourists to get off the road at least once each day and hop on a trail.

We walked about half a mile from the Cold Mountain Overlook at milepost 412 to a spot at Pigeon Gap where the Mountains to Sea Trail (MtS) crosses the Parkway. We entered the trail on the west side, heading in a southerly direction. It was an extremely foggy day, so when we entered the forest it was murky and damp. My friend commented it was like an enchanted forest may be just around the bend past the misty fog.

After a few hundred yards the trail begins a moderate climb up Green Knob. There are switchbacks that wind around rocky outcrops to make the ascent easier. To our right (west) we could hear the far away sound of rushing water from Big East — the East Fork of Pigeon River — in the valley below. We knew Cold Mountain stood over there on the other side, but we were shrouded in fog.

The higher we got, though, the clearer it became. We entered a layer between clouds. They were above us, and below us. By the time we reached the top of the ridge 600 feet above where we started, we had a window through which to view the skylines. To the southeast, the sun was creating a sunset-like effect with an orange glow on the horizon. The valley below was completely obscured by clouds, as was the sun by another higher cloud layer.

We continued following the ridge southward until we reached a spur trail that headed to the west. Neither of us had been on this stretch of the MtS before, and this spur isn’t on the map, so we went exploring. We could now see the peak of Cold Mountain in the distance, again between cloud layers. The spur trail followed a game lands boundary, and after a quarter mile actually entered Shining Rock Wilderness. Once the trail began a steep descent toward Big East, we said that was enough and turned back. At one time this was a marked trail because we saw some very old, faint red blaze paint.

Returning to the Mountain to Sea Trail, we resumed the gradual climb to the Green Knob summit. The ridge narrows at the summit, no more than 30 feet wide, so there are picturesque views on each side. On the left (east) is the Cradle of Forestry and Looking Glass Rock (unfortunately covered in clouds for us), and on the right (west) is Shining Rock Wilderness and the Black Balsam area. The sixers at Black Balsam were tall enough to poke above the lower cloud layer.

This looked like a great spot for lunch, so we took off our packs, pulled out soup, sandwich and map, and enjoyed the unusual cloud inversion that we’ve encountered twice in our last three hikes. The map was useful to tell us what we might see on a clear day. We also concluded that winter was a good time to take this trail because the leafless trees enabled long distance views that would not otherwise be available.

We could see the Blue Ridge Parkway directly below us, about 300 feet over the edge, and then heard the sounds of a vehicle. As quiet as it had been that surprised us. Turned out to be a Parkway maintenace pickup truck with a snow plow just scouting the road for any signs of accumulation. As we would discover later, he totally ignored other fallen rock and ice debris.

After a rest and some nourishment we continued along the ridge. The forest on top is simply beautiful, gnarly oaks and beech with lichens growing on the trunks in shades of mint and olive green. That’s the picture at the top of this post. Click on it for a larger image. As you can see, the trail itself is grassy and cushioned, a delightful stroll through the friendly woods. The sun even popped out… but just for a couple minutes.

Not far past the Green Knob summit is an outcrop known as Penny Rock. This is the only clear view, unobstructed by trees, of the scene to the east and south. Hard to know on the day we were there because of the cloud cover, but I suspect there are remarkable long views of the Black Mountains 40 miles east, as well as all the towns and villages between. I know that Looking Glass Rock is there, and Cedar Rock, and Pilot Mountain. The landmarks are numerous.

The descent on the south side of Green Knob is more gradual than the climb. It winds casually through the hardwood with one steep switchback. All the while the Parkway is just to your left, but delightfully quiet in its closed status. The trail spills onto the Parkway at Bennett Gap, milepost 414.5.

It’s all uphill on the Parkway for the next mile and a half until you get to the Pounding Mill Overlook. My hiking companion also rides bicycles on the Parkway and says this incline will test your resolve. There are steeper pulls, but this one just keeps going up and up and up. Because there are no other overlooks before Pounding Mill, this is a stretch of road with views that aren’t normally seen when trapped in a car. Another great reason for walking the Parkway when it’s closed.

As we approached the hairpin curve that is the Pounding Mill Overlook, we could hear loud pops and cracks on the cliff face above. Unsure if it was another maintenance vehicle, wildlife or what, we kept our eyes peeled as we neared the turn. Then we saw why. There were broken off pieces of granite and ice lying in the middle of the road, another reason the Park Service is wise to close this byway under winter conditions.

My hiking friends and I volunteer for the National Park Service in their Adopt an Overlook program. It just so happens that Pounding Mill is ours. Since the maintenance truck we had seen earlier apparently passed right by the fallen rock and ice, or maybe it fell since he went by, we did our volunteer thing and moved all the debris to the side of the road. As we were finishing up our hike a half hour later, we noticed the pickup truck coming back the other direction. Perhaps when he reached Pounding Mill he wondered what in the world happened to that downed rock.

On the north side of the overlook the Parkway begins descending toward Pigeon Gap. As we approached there was a large fog bank wafting through the gap. Just barely peaking out through the fog was the fire tower on top of Fryingpan Mountain. It’s one of those landmarks you come to recognize when you spend a lot of time on this stretch of the Parkway.

As we walked through the gap, there was the entrance to the Mountains to Sea Trail that we took on our way south, and then the final half mile back to the Cold Mountain Overlook. The clouds had cleared just enough to capture one last photo of the peak of Cold Mountain.

If you’re looking for a shortish hike of three hours or less that will give you some exercise and offer exceptional views of the surrounding Blue Ridge and wilderness areas, then this hike on the Mountains to Sea Trail over Green Knob may be just the ticket. Obviously, you don’t have to wait until the Parkway is closed to try it, but there is a certain serenity in the high country without the sound of vehicles. To access the trailhead when the Parkway is open, you can park at the Wagon Road Gap Overlook (milepost 412.2) or Pounding Mill (milepost 413). It’s just a short walk on the side of the road to the trail.

Update May 30, 2016: Memorial Day 2016 offered beautiful weather in the high country. I started the day doing my Blue Ridge Parkway volunteer duty by picking up trash at the Pounding Mill Overlook. Then it was down to Pigeon Gap to hop on the MST for the climb up Green Knob. Arcane wildflowers were in abundance including such esoteric varieties as Canada may flower, speckled wood lily, smooth and false solomon seal, and fly poison. Old favorites mountain laurel and blackberry were also in abundance. Contrast the photos below during green season with the ones above from winter. Hardly seems like the same place.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Between mileposts 423 and 424 on the Blue Ridge Parkway, Scenic Hwy 215 crosses at Beech Gap. If you head about 1/4 mile north on 215, the famous Mountains to Sea Trail crosses from the Black Balsam area into Middle Prong Wilderness. The MtS winds through an ever-changing forest that runs the gamut of evergreens found in the high country of Western North Carolina. Past waterfalls and streams, through thickets and meadows, surrounded by 6000 foot tall mountain peaks, with the always present aroma of pine and spruce and fir, this stretch of the MtS to the Green Mountain Trail is a hiker’s delight. Climb a short way up Fork Ridge to a lonely outcrop on the eastern flank to gaze far and wide into the vast expanse of Shining Rock Wilderness. It doesn’t get much better. This hike occurred on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 from 10:00am to 2:05pm. Our plan was to take the Mountains to Sea Trail from Hwy 215 to its junction with Green Mountain Trail. We would then climb Fork Ridge near Green Knob to that lonely outcrop and return.

Are you perhaps looking for a day hike that will take you through a wide and diverse array of forests, alongside babbling mountain streams and waterfalls, and culminates with exceptional long distance vistas above 6000 feet? Sounds really enticing doesn’t it?

Well, strap on your hiking boots and backpack because I have one to tell you about. Up in the high country off the Blue Ridge Parkway in Pisgah National Forest are two designated wilderness areas with incredible hiking offerings. Shining Rock Wilderness is, no doubt, the more well known of the two, and yes it is fabulous. But if you’re interested in lesser traversed trails that are equally enthralling, Middle Prong Wilderness fills the bill.

These two wilderness areas abut each other, separated by Scenic Hwy 215, otherwise known as Lake Logan Road. Between mileposts 423 and 424 on the Blue Ridge Parkway, Hwy 215 crosses. Just a quarter mile north on 215 the Mountains to Sea Trail crosses 215 from the Black Balsams into Middle Prong Wilderness, named for the middle prong of the Pigeon River. Park on 215 and look for the unmarked, but obvious trailhead on the left side of the highway. It heads upward to the northwest.

The well-worn trail winds through a mixed forest of high country birch and beech and conifers, and the omnipresent WNC rhododendron. Don’t look for blaze markings in the wilderness as there aren’t any, but the trail is plenty easy to follow.

You come to a meadow surrounded by gorgeous black balsam spruce with two campsites, one at trail level, and another more secluded at the plateau of a small rise. These sites would be a nice pair for a double camping date. The Mountains to Sea Trail (MtS) continues through the meadow and eventually makes a decidedly southern turn.

You’ll hear the soothing sounds of the West Fork headwaters, a gentle breeze, and for us on this mid-December day, the unmistakable bay of bear dogs. They were miles away, but sound reverberates off the granite in the high country hollows. You will cross the creek twice, not difficult, except perhaps in spring when the water level may be up from snowmelt.

The trail seems pretty level, but is actually climbing at a very gradual pace, resulting in the appearance of the high granite cliffs and ridges far in the distance on either side of the trail. With a healthy rain the previous day, my companion and I were treated to a sight I hadn’t observed on two previous trips to this track. To our right, westerly, was a beautiful waterfall about 1/4 mile away. It was plunging about 70-80 feet over a sheer granite ledge. My guess is this is one of those surprise waterfalls that only appears on rare, wet occasions. It was a real treat.

As you proceed the forest becomes less dense with more of a low-lying scrub and “christmas tree” type appearance. The immature white pine, spruce and fir not only set a seasonal mood, but smell delightful. Catching this area after a recent snowfall would be a special joy. The trail again switches back to a northerly direction as you parallel the eastern face of 6110′ Mount Hardy on your left.

Continuing the push north, you’ll pass a small clearing that opens up a view to the northeast of the Black Balsam area and your first peak at Black Balsam Knob itself as well as Little Sam Knob. Those large mountains will be quite commanding at the final destination.

I love the next section of trail because it is a botanists delight. The sudden and distinct changes in the forest diversity are inspiring, and actually kind of eerie. Start with a good mix of beech, birch, spruce and fir, then suddenly enter an extremely dense, dark forest of white pine and black balsam. Next to no light reaches the ground which is soft and cushy from centuries of fallen needles. As you exit this aphotic alpine wood, you next enter an even more compact rhododendron grove. Don’t get off-trail here as you would likely be lost for days. The trail is clear, but either side is a convoluted jungle of twisted rhodo trunks. I thought of the trail builders when going through here.

On the other side, the trail begins a steeper climb then pops into another meadow with exceptional panoramic views to the west of the heart of Middle Prong Wilderness. We were surrounded by low-level valley fog that I always find fascinating as the higher peaks poke their tops through the murk. To me, it seems to give a majesty to the high country… living above the clouds.

We could really hear the howling of the hunting dogs now as we made the short but steep climb up to Fork Ridge. This is the hardest stretch of the hike, but still quite moderate, and it only lasts for a hundred yards or so. You’ll head back into the forest, dark again, mostly evergreen now with occasional glimpses of the surrounding wilderness on each side of the ridge. Shining Rock is to your right and Middle Prong to your left.

Once you top Fork Ridge, look closely for the trail junction with the Green Mountain Trail. It isn’t marked, but it comes in from your right and proceeds due north. If you miss it, the MtS continues on to Buckeye Gap. So if you reach the Buckeye Gap Trail, know that you have missed the Green Mountain Trail and gone too far. For this hike, you want to turn right on the Green Mountain Trail. Remember that this is wilderness, so there are no trail markers.

The ridge on the Green Mountain Trail is covered with “christmas tree” like spruce, tall grasses and fields of lichens and ground cedar — simply another gorgeous display of the flora presented in the high country. I love it! You will come to a campsite on your left that is surrounded by 12-foot spruce that make an excellent wind break. I’ve stopped here for a snack before, but today our lunch break would be on the outcrop overlooking the balds of Black Balsam.

It’s no more than half a mile past the campsite. The trail will dip and rise on Fork Ridge a couple times, but keep your eyes peeled to the right for a non-maintained spur trail heading to the east. It isn’t easy to spot, but when you see it, you’ll know it. It’s no more than 30 yards off trail to the outcrop, a perfect place for 3-4 people to take off their packs, sit on the terraced rock formation, and gaze for miles into the WNC high country wilderness. For the two of us, it was perfect.

The outcrop has a 180° perspective. To the northeast are the trio of grand mountains that make up Black Balsam. From left to right are the double-peaked 6050′ Sam Knob, then Sam’s junior, but no less impressive brother, Little Sam, and beyond them is the massive summit of 6214′ Black Balsam Knob. Far in the distance is Shining Rock Wilderness.

Directly east is Flat Laurel Creek and Wildcat Falls, with the 6000′ Chestnut and Silvermine Balds behind. Interestingly, Chestnut Bald no longer is. There is a very healthy stand of black balsam spruce on its summit.

Turning southeast you’ll see the Devil’s Courthouse, a mammoth outcropping right on the Blue Ridge Parkway that surveys the Blue Ridge as far as the eye can see. You can follow the Parkway as it carves its way along the crest of Pisgah Ridge, and the Hwy 215 ribbon twisting through Beech Gap.

It was a gorgeous day, near 50° in the sun, perfect hiking weather, with layer upon layer of clouds interspersed with sky. See the picture at the top of this post for an example (click for a larger image). To the south, and into the sun, those clouds were doing a crazy dance with the mountain summits that really caught our attention as we dined on fine soup, apricots and peanut butter. Only the best for the Meanderthals.

After lunch we pondered continuing on to Green Knob, but with the way that crazy sky looked, we thought perhaps it was best to turn around and head back. It’s no fun being caught in a storm at 5800′. Between wind, rain, hail and snow it can ruin your day in just a matter of minutes. Besides, we could save Green Knob for another day coming up the Green Mountain Trail from the Sunburst end.

It didn’t take long to realize our decision to head back was sound. As soon as we got out of the sun that was warming us on the outcrop, the temp was several degrees cooler in the forest. The breeze began to pick up as well and we quickly put back on the layers and headgear we had shed while enjoying our break. Each time we passed a clearing I could tell the clouds were getting just a little bit closer.

When we got back down off Fork Ridge and onto the flats of the MtS again, the breeze was sucking the wisps of fog into the gaps and hollows — quite a fascinating and mysterious sight. I’m accustomed to ground-level fog early in the morning. It’s always an alluring effect at mid-day.

We passed back through each of the disparate forests, back by Mount Hardy and the waterfall. By the time we got to the meadow with the dual campsites, it was sunny again. So no need for concern about bad weather, thank goodness.

It’s always a good idea to be totally aware of your surroundings when hiking in the high country, and to be prepared. I always take a rain jacket, no matter what. It’s also a good idea to have extra socks, gloves, hats and layers in your pack just in case. Particularly when hiking in December, or even later in winter, the temperature can change 20-30° very quickly. Sudden wind can be relentless, and if you get caught in a hail storm, it is life threatening. Just remember where you are. This is wilderness, not some friendly neighborhood civic park.

When we got back to the car, we put away our hiking gear and pulled out our conscientious “Leave No Trace” gear. When hiking in this vicinity once before, my friend and I had noticed a campsite near the road that was completely and totally littered. This site was so full of trash that it frankly offended us when we came upon it that day. We weren’t prepared back then, but on this day we were. By the time we were through we had filled two large trash bags with bottles and cans, milk jugs and aluminum foil — junk that did not belong in the wilderness.

Best HikeTo summarize, the Mountains to Sea and Green Mountain Trails in Middle Prong Wilderness should always be on your list of weather and seasonal appropriate hikes in the Western North Carolina high country. If you love forested hikes, you will see a wide variety. If you like the high vistas, the outcrop on Fork Ridge offers views that will inspire you. For the water enthusiasts, part of the trail even follows a babbling brook with the chance to see a surprise waterfall. I highly recommend it. For us, it was a great day, and I would label this one a best hike.

Updated August 26, 2014: Time for another visit to this magnificent region of Middle Prong Wilderness. Realizing we had never been there in summer, we wanted to check out the trail condition. There were a few spots in the meadows where the late summer foliage like the goldenrod were hanging over the trail, but most of it was still easily navigable. There was a slight hint of autumn in the air and on the trees, making it a most delightful day.

We found a line of puffy white clouds wafting up the valley formed by Hwy 215 between Fork Ridge and the Balsams that prevented a clear view of the Sams, but it was still delightful at the rock outcropping on Green Knob. I know I will continue to return for this hike time and time again. It is simply one of the best in the WNC high country.

Update July 2, 2016: Here are a few more photos from a visit in early summer. Compare for seasonal differences.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

The Mountains to Sea Trail spans the width of North Carolina, running from the Great Smoky Mountains in the west, to the Outer Banks of Coastal Carolina. Much of the trail in the mountainous part of the state is near or parallels the Blue Ridge Parkway. This section of the MST along the parkway has been designated a National Recreation Trail. With elevations well above 5000 feet, there are segments in Haywood County that make nice day hikes in the high country. One of those is Rough Butt Bald at milepost 427. This hike occurred on Thursday, March 15, 2012 from 10:15am to 1:30pm. Our plan was to take the Mountains to Sea Trail from the Rough Butt Bald Overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway around and over Rough Butt Bald for a view of South Carolina, then return the way we came.

We haven’t been up in the high country since winter set in, so it was with great delight that we turned onto the Blue Ridge Parkway to head for Middle Prong Wilderness. It was so wonderful to be back up in black balsam spruce country — to see the long distance views of the Blue Ridge. Nothing against hiking at 4000 feet, but it’s an entirely different world at 6000 feet.

The Rough Butt Bald Overlook on the parkway has a beautiful view south toward Lake Toxaway and the South Carolina upstate. Directly across the parkway from the overlook, on the north side, is the trailhead for the Mountains to Sea Trail (MST). As we plunged into the shadows of the old growth forest we knew immediately that we were back home. The forest and the terrain are so unlike what we had been hiking in all winter. The smells from the spruce, fir and pine are invigorating. The forest floor is a bed of ground cedar, fern and moss. The trail is covered with evergreen needles rather than leaves. The deciduous trees are mostly birch rather than oak and poplar.

The forest is damp and murky, though there was hardly any snow this winter. We never saw any pockets of un-melted snow hidden in the shade. The moss on downed trees seems as though it has been growing for centuries. Lichens and other fungus have been inhabiting this wilderness undisturbed for a long, long time. There may not have been snow, but there was obviously a lot of wind as there was considerable downed timber across the trail. We tried to move what we could.

After nearly a mile we reached Buckeye Creek and the intersection with Buckeye Gap Trail. We took a hard left to stay on the MTS. The forest changed as we went through stands of new birch that still clung to their dried, crumbling leaves. Like the birch leaves, the trail clung to the butt in spots, with the edge tumbling off to the north. Occasionally the trees would clear enough to catch a glimpse of the mountains of the Great Balsam Range in that same direction.

As the trail winds northwesterly paralleling the parkway, we would get an intermittent peek at the road. The trail is far enough away, however, so you don’t get any of the road noise. All we were hearing was the sound of songbirds and breeze in the treetops, and then suddenly despite a forecast for clear skies until late in the afternoon, we heard the rumble of far-away thunder. It definitely grabbed our attention as it’s not advisable to get caught atop a mountain in a thunderstorm. So we kept our eyes and ears peeled for the slightest sense that the weather was moving any closer.

About a mile and a half in, the trail takes a northerly turn toward Haywood Gap, the other end of the Buckeye Gap loop mentioned above. At Haywood Gap, the MTS turns to the left directly toward the parkway, and the Haywood Gap Trail turns right down the hollow. It’s just a couple hundred yards to the parkway crossing from the gap. The trail crosses the parkway at about milepost 426.5 heading due west. Horsebone Gap is to the south and Rough Butt Bald to the west.

Oddly enough, the forest isn’t quite as dense on this southwesterly side of the parkway. The ground also has more leaves and less needles. There is more sun exposure as the trail begins to skirt the southern side of Rough Butt Bald. Curiosity got the best of me since so many of the mountains around here are named “butt this” and “butt that.” So I looked it up. Butt is a term describing how a mountain breaks off or “butts” off sharply. You can thank me later.

The only real climbing on this hike begins here. The elevation gains almost 500 feet in the next mile, not steep by any means. The higher the trail gets, the more laurel and rhododendron begin to appear. Some of these rhodies are extremely mature with gnarly trunks about four inches in diameter. They’ve been here for awhile. After reaching the plateau of the butt, the vegetation changes again.

We entered a thick blackberry patch that spanned the trail on both sides. It is obviously a trail maintenance nightmare for the volunteers as we noticed trail markers about every 50 feet so they could keep their bearings when whacking the brush. Occasionally we would hear the tell-tale thump, thump, thump of a grouse warning us that we were invading its territory. Despite the stark nature of the late winter season, we were beginning to see just a hint of color in the foliage as evidenced by the picture at the top of this post.

About a mile after crossing the parkway the trail reaches a ledge on the south side of Rough Butt Bald with a semi-clear view of the valleys and ridges far away to the south. We could see Balsam Lake, a small recreation area, and even further in the distance, Lake Toxaway. To our left (southeast) was Wolf Mountain, and to our right the vast expanse of Nantahala National Forest. Way, way off in the distance was upstate South Carolina. This looked like a nice spot for lunch. We couldn’t find any outcroppings so we just pulled up a little piece of trail and took a seat.

We could see more overcast and hear more thunder far to the east, but so far all was well in our neck of the woods. Last week we had lunch under a tree in the rain and wind, but not this time. After lunch, we continued on the trail with a plan to turn around if the trail began a steep descent or if the bad weather got closer. Well, it was only another two-tenths mile before the trail began a steep zig-zag down the south side of the mountain. So this was our cue to turn and head back to our origin.

As we went back around Rough Butt Bald, we found a spot where we could climb farther up off-trail to a small clearing. Turns out we couldn’t see more of the surrounding vistas, but there was a beautiful black balsam stand at the top of the bald. When we got back to the parkway crossing, we could see the sky was beginning to clear considerably. The grey overcast was being replaced with the cerulean blue you get at high elevations, and white puffy clouds.

The return on the north side of the parkway was uneventful, simply a repeat of the awe found within the old growth forest. When we popped back out on the parkway at the overlook, the sun was out in full grandeur. I stopped to take several pictures of the Blue Ridge Mountains from the overlook while my hiking buddy talked with a group of long-distance bicycle riders who were taking a break. The Blue Ridge Parkway is enjoyable recreation for hikers, bikers, and motorists of all sorts. It’s not a destination. Just being there is the adventure and the lure.

As we drove back to our parkway exit, we began to see wet ground, and then white ground. Heh? As we turned off the parkway and onto Hwy 276 for our drive down off the mountain, the white stuff got thicker and deeper. Apparently all that thunder we heard before was a localized hail storm that had dumped enough to completely cover the road about an inch deep. Amazing! I sure am glad the storm wasn’t 10-15 miles further west as we would have been really scrambling to get out of the woods and off the mountain. As it was, it made the drive on the very curvy, very steep Hwy 276 somewhat tenuous.

There aren’t many trails in Middle Prong Wilderness as there are in the adjacent Shining Rock Wilderness. I wish there were more because I love the beauty of the area. This is a very nice three hour hike that is easy to do. You needn’t be in superb physical condition, nor have all the latest hiking gadgets and gizmos. Take some water and a snack and give it a go. Just beware the elevation. If you aren’t used to it, mind your pace, and take time to assimilate.

Update January 19, 2017 – It has been unusual for the Blue Ridge Parkway to be open in winter. For the past several years that has not been the case. So why not take a trip to the high country when the opportunity is available. Much of the forest along the Mountains to Sea Trail near Rough Butt Bald is evergreen, so it doesn’t look much different in mid-January than it did on my previous March visit. See for yourself with the new photos below.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.