Back to Rough Butt Bald Overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway, and another visit to the Mountains to Sea Trail. The MST follows, or remains close to the Parkway through much of Western North Carolina, so there are a number of easily accessible jumping off points that head into the backcountry. Middle Prong Wilderness was designated in 1984 and spans rugged high-elevation ridges with old growth forest and grassy balds like Fork Ridge. This is a short out-and-back hike in the high country that explores murky, mossy evergreen forest on its way to the sedge and oat grass western slope of Fork Ridge. The hike occurred on Thursday, April 18, 2013 from 9:10am to 11:35am. My plan was to take the Mountains to Sea Trail at Rough Butt Bald Overlook to the junction with Green Mountain Trail on Fork Ridge, then return the same way.

I started the day by picking up trash at my “Adopt an Overlook” spot on the Blue Ridge Parkway. For the most part, those who travel the Parkway are good about litter. Most want the Parkway to remain beautiful for all to enjoy. I will usually find about a half dozen beer bottles and cans over the hillside though, and there are always 40-50 cigarette butts to pick up after the motorcycle riders who pause along their journey for a smoke break. With that done, it was onward to Rough Butt Bald.

This makes the third trail report here at Meanderthals that starts at the Rough Butt Bald Overlook. First we took you down Buckeye Gap and back up Haywood Gap, then showed you how to access Rough Butt Bald itself. That’s the great thing about the Mountains to Sea Trail. There are a number of spokes or cogs that spin off the MST enabling deeper exploration of the surrounding forests and wilderness.

The access trail from the Blue Ridge Parkway into the forest is just on the other side of the road from the Rough Butt Bald Overlook. You will cross a small stream and go no more than a couple hundred yards before coming to the Mountains to Sea Trail at Buckeye Gap. The photo at the top of this post was taken at this junction. Turn to the left to take the hike to Rough Butt Bald mentioned above, or take a right as I did and head into the heart of Middle Prong Wilderness. In fact, you’ll come to the wilderness boundary sign in just a matter of minutes.

The Mountains to Sea Trail is always blazed with white markings, but you will notice once you enter Middle Prong Wilderness that this stretch also has orange ribbons hanging from tree branches just overhead. It’s a little off-putting, but I suspect the ribbons are there to aid with snowshoeing when the ground is snow covered. That certainly wouldn’t have been a problem this past winter.

The forest here is unlike any other in Pisgah National Forest, except perhaps in the Black Mountains. It is mostly to do with the elevation. This is a totally evergreen forest with multiple species of pine, spruce, fir, even some old hemlocks that were killed by the woolly adelgid infestation. There is old growth spruce, some as tall as 70-80 feet, with trunks 30″ in diameter.

But the green doesn’t stop with the trees. Everything that has fallen to the ground is covered with a thick carpet of moss and lichens, many decades old, making for a spongy understory. Colorful fungus attaches itself to the trunks of the old trees. Hanging mosses are in the higher limbs. It’s a verdant playground.

The forest is extremely thick and dense, sometimes making navigation of the trail a bit dicey. There are exposed roots everywhere. They are quite slippery, especially on days like this one following a prolonged rain. Another feature common in the month of April up in the high country is the near constant fog layer. This murky air also contributes a general dampness to the terrain. Combine that with a number of creek crossings, and let’s just say it’s important to watch your step.

The trail hangs on a ridge, with the shadow of the imposing 6,110 foot Mt. Hardy to your right and the steep drainage from Buckeye Creek and other small streams to the left. I saw no evidence of wildflowers yet. Still a little too early in the season for this elevation. Regardless, there is still a remarkable beauty.

About a mile and a half into the hike you’ll come to an unmarked fork in the trail. The left path takes the Buckeye Gap Trail down into the depths of Middle Prong. I’ve written about that hike before. The right fork continues the Mountains to Sea Trail in an easterly direction to Fork Ridge.

Not long afterward you will reach the grassy bald western slope of Fork Ridge. Grassy balds are relatively blunt summits covered by dense native grasses. Grassy balds are normally found at the summit of hills, but can also be found on broad upper slopes. Such is the case with this area of Fork Ridge. The trail skirts the bald so I continued on with a plan of climbing the grassy slope on the way back.

Next I came to a moist squishy mountain bog zone. The trail is supported by small logs and rocks to keep it from completely succumbing to the bog. It’s a good idea to have waterproof hiking shoes through here as you are guaranteed to step in mud and quag in this scenic wetlands area.

This last quarter mile is really the only part of the trail that does much climbing. Even so, it is still quite moderate as you push up Fork Ridge. You will again enter a dense forest, then come to a junction with the Green Mountain Trail heading off to your left (north). If you’re curious, you can read about that hike as well. You must treat yourself some day. It is one of the best hikes in the region.

This trail junction was my turnaround point for the day. I’d had a little bout with dehydration a couple days prior, so I didn’t want to push my luck and over do it. Besides, I still wanted to climb the grassy bald on the way back.

I tip-toed my way back down through the wetlands, managing to avoid any nasty slips or falls. You may have noticed up top that I took nearly two and a half hours to go four miles. Part of that was stopping frequently for pictures, but some of it was simply being very careful in the wet and slippery stretches I encountered. I’m not as nimble as I used to be… also not as dumb.

When I reached the western slope of Fork Ridge I started up through the tall grass in a northerly direction. This was the perfect time of year to do this traverse. There was no winter snow, and also no summer briars and stickers. The grass was quite wet, so my pant legs worked to repel the moisture. But the turf below was surprisingly firm. I expected it to be seeping, but apparently it drains quite well.

Since I was by this way half an hour earlier, an even heavier fog layer had moved in. I rounded the ridge top and could see the northern side ahead, but I didn’t want to get too far away from the trail in case I got disoriented in the gloom. There are a few small trees, as well as some rocky outcroppings, all surrounded by luscious greening grass. The outer rim of the bald clearing is ringed by stunning spruce trees that will one day be giants. I found a nice flat rock to sit on and enjoyed a snack and the peaceful arena.

On the return trip, I kept my eyes peeled for little spur trails that might lead to campsites. I found probably a half dozen primitive sites 50-100 feet off the main trail. There was one particular site that is encircled by immature beech trees that is quite charming. The tent bed lies under four old growth spruce that provide shelter from the elements, and the beech ring adds an array of color that makes this enchanting. If you’re an MST thru-hiker you might keep this in mind.

I also followed Buckeye Creek a short way off the ridge as it spilled swiftly to its appointment with Middle Prong. As is so common in the Western North Carolina mountains, the creek carves its way over layer upon layer of granite leaving a number of two foot waterfalls in its wake.

As I approached the Blue Ridge Parkway, I wasn’t hearing any traffic at all. No doubt an effect of the heavy fog that was keeping the tourists at lower elevation. Later, it was a little tough driving down out of the high country.

To summarize, I found this to be a totally enjoyable and easy hike. The fog that followed me all morning added an eerie sense of adventure to an already striking scenery. Every hike I’ve done in Middle Prong Wilderness has been exceptionally picturesque. There’s just something about the botany, topography and pallet of the high country that makes it extremely appealing to me. Wear some waterproof shoes and pants, and be careful on the slick roots, and you can have a beautiful brief departure from your journey along the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Update August 31, 2015: It was time to get back into the high country on a hot, late summer day. I was rewarded with cool, damp air that remained in the 60s all day long… near perfect for hiking. Best of all, unlike my first foray to Fork Ridge, the air wasn’t permeated with fog and I could actually see the forest around me.

Much like any time I visit the Blue Ridge Parkway, I always stop at my Adopt-an-Overlook to pick up trash. The 10-mile trip on the Parkway after that to Rough Butt Overlook was picturesque as usual. You simply can’t beat the Blue Ridge Parkway as a scenic drive, whether for ten miles or 400. I am so fortunate to have it in my own backyard.

I was solo on this day, enjoying the serenity offered by Middle Prong Wilderness. I heard the occasional howl of the hound dogs, out for tracking practice before hunting season begins. I only encountered one other hiker, an Asheville backpacker who was on his third day in the wilderness. Contrast that to the mayhem at next-door Shining Rock Wilderness this time of year when the blueberry pickers invade the hillsides en masse.

While you study the new photos, compare and contrast the seasonal and weather changes. Enjoy.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Between mileposts 423 and 424 on the Blue Ridge Parkway, Scenic Hwy 215 crosses at Beech Gap. If you head about 1/4 mile north on 215, the famous Mountains to Sea Trail crosses from the Black Balsam area into Middle Prong Wilderness. The MtS winds through an ever-changing forest that runs the gamut of evergreens found in the high country of Western North Carolina. Past waterfalls and streams, through thickets and meadows, surrounded by 6000 foot tall mountain peaks, with the always present aroma of pine and spruce and fir, this stretch of the MtS to the Green Mountain Trail is a hiker’s delight. Climb a short way up Fork Ridge to a lonely outcrop on the eastern flank to gaze far and wide into the vast expanse of Shining Rock Wilderness. It doesn’t get much better. This hike occurred on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 from 10:00am to 2:05pm. Our plan was to take the Mountains to Sea Trail from Hwy 215 to its junction with Green Mountain Trail. We would then climb Fork Ridge near Green Knob to that lonely outcrop and return.

Are you perhaps looking for a day hike that will take you through a wide and diverse array of forests, alongside babbling mountain streams and waterfalls, and culminates with exceptional long distance vistas above 6000 feet? Sounds really enticing doesn’t it?

Well, strap on your hiking boots and backpack because I have one to tell you about. Up in the high country off the Blue Ridge Parkway in Pisgah National Forest are two designated wilderness areas with incredible hiking offerings. Shining Rock Wilderness is, no doubt, the more well known of the two, and yes it is fabulous. But if you’re interested in lesser traversed trails that are equally enthralling, Middle Prong Wilderness fills the bill.

These two wilderness areas abut each other, separated by Scenic Hwy 215, otherwise known as Lake Logan Road. Between mileposts 423 and 424 on the Blue Ridge Parkway, Hwy 215 crosses. Just a quarter mile north on 215 the Mountains to Sea Trail crosses 215 from the Black Balsams into Middle Prong Wilderness, named for the middle prong of the Pigeon River. Park on 215 and look for the unmarked, but obvious trailhead on the left side of the highway. It heads upward to the northwest.

The well-worn trail winds through a mixed forest of high country birch and beech and conifers, and the omnipresent WNC rhododendron. Don’t look for blaze markings in the wilderness as there aren’t any, but the trail is plenty easy to follow.

You come to a meadow surrounded by gorgeous black balsam spruce with two campsites, one at trail level, and another more secluded at the plateau of a small rise. These sites would be a nice pair for a double camping date. The Mountains to Sea Trail (MtS) continues through the meadow and eventually makes a decidedly southern turn.

You’ll hear the soothing sounds of the West Fork headwaters, a gentle breeze, and for us on this mid-December day, the unmistakable bay of bear dogs. They were miles away, but sound reverberates off the granite in the high country hollows. You will cross the creek twice, not difficult, except perhaps in spring when the water level may be up from snowmelt.

The trail seems pretty level, but is actually climbing at a very gradual pace, resulting in the appearance of the high granite cliffs and ridges far in the distance on either side of the trail. With a healthy rain the previous day, my companion and I were treated to a sight I hadn’t observed on two previous trips to this track. To our right, westerly, was a beautiful waterfall about 1/4 mile away. It was plunging about 70-80 feet over a sheer granite ledge. My guess is this is one of those surprise waterfalls that only appears on rare, wet occasions. It was a real treat.

As you proceed the forest becomes less dense with more of a low-lying scrub and “christmas tree” type appearance. The immature white pine, spruce and fir not only set a seasonal mood, but smell delightful. Catching this area after a recent snowfall would be a special joy. The trail again switches back to a northerly direction as you parallel the eastern face of 6110′ Mount Hardy on your left.

Continuing the push north, you’ll pass a small clearing that opens up a view to the northeast of the Black Balsam area and your first peak at Black Balsam Knob itself as well as Little Sam Knob. Those large mountains will be quite commanding at the final destination.

I love the next section of trail because it is a botanists delight. The sudden and distinct changes in the forest diversity are inspiring, and actually kind of eerie. Start with a good mix of beech, birch, spruce and fir, then suddenly enter an extremely dense, dark forest of white pine and black balsam. Next to no light reaches the ground which is soft and cushy from centuries of fallen needles. As you exit this aphotic alpine wood, you next enter an even more compact rhododendron grove. Don’t get off-trail here as you would likely be lost for days. The trail is clear, but either side is a convoluted jungle of twisted rhodo trunks. I thought of the trail builders when going through here.

On the other side, the trail begins a steeper climb then pops into another meadow with exceptional panoramic views to the west of the heart of Middle Prong Wilderness. We were surrounded by low-level valley fog that I always find fascinating as the higher peaks poke their tops through the murk. To me, it seems to give a majesty to the high country… living above the clouds.

We could really hear the howling of the hunting dogs now as we made the short but steep climb up to Fork Ridge. This is the hardest stretch of the hike, but still quite moderate, and it only lasts for a hundred yards or so. You’ll head back into the forest, dark again, mostly evergreen now with occasional glimpses of the surrounding wilderness on each side of the ridge. Shining Rock is to your right and Middle Prong to your left.

Once you top Fork Ridge, look closely for the trail junction with the Green Mountain Trail. It isn’t marked, but it comes in from your right and proceeds due north. If you miss it, the MtS continues on to Buckeye Gap. So if you reach the Buckeye Gap Trail, know that you have missed the Green Mountain Trail and gone too far. For this hike, you want to turn right on the Green Mountain Trail. Remember that this is wilderness, so there are no trail markers.

The ridge on the Green Mountain Trail is covered with “christmas tree” like spruce, tall grasses and fields of lichens and ground cedar — simply another gorgeous display of the flora presented in the high country. I love it! You will come to a campsite on your left that is surrounded by 12-foot spruce that make an excellent wind break. I’ve stopped here for a snack before, but today our lunch break would be on the outcrop overlooking the balds of Black Balsam.

It’s no more than half a mile past the campsite. The trail will dip and rise on Fork Ridge a couple times, but keep your eyes peeled to the right for a non-maintained spur trail heading to the east. It isn’t easy to spot, but when you see it, you’ll know it. It’s no more than 30 yards off trail to the outcrop, a perfect place for 3-4 people to take off their packs, sit on the terraced rock formation, and gaze for miles into the WNC high country wilderness. For the two of us, it was perfect.

The outcrop has a 180° perspective. To the northeast are the trio of grand mountains that make up Black Balsam. From left to right are the double-peaked 6050′ Sam Knob, then Sam’s junior, but no less impressive brother, Little Sam, and beyond them is the massive summit of 6214′ Black Balsam Knob. Far in the distance is Shining Rock Wilderness.

Directly east is Flat Laurel Creek and Wildcat Falls, with the 6000′ Chestnut and Silvermine Balds behind. Interestingly, Chestnut Bald no longer is. There is a very healthy stand of black balsam spruce on its summit.

Turning southeast you’ll see the Devil’s Courthouse, a mammoth outcropping right on the Blue Ridge Parkway that surveys the Blue Ridge as far as the eye can see. You can follow the Parkway as it carves its way along the crest of Pisgah Ridge, and the Hwy 215 ribbon twisting through Beech Gap.

It was a gorgeous day, near 50° in the sun, perfect hiking weather, with layer upon layer of clouds interspersed with sky. See the picture at the top of this post for an example (click for a larger image). To the south, and into the sun, those clouds were doing a crazy dance with the mountain summits that really caught our attention as we dined on fine soup, apricots and peanut butter. Only the best for the Meanderthals.

After lunch we pondered continuing on to Green Knob, but with the way that crazy sky looked, we thought perhaps it was best to turn around and head back. It’s no fun being caught in a storm at 5800′. Between wind, rain, hail and snow it can ruin your day in just a matter of minutes. Besides, we could save Green Knob for another day coming up the Green Mountain Trail from the Sunburst end.

It didn’t take long to realize our decision to head back was sound. As soon as we got out of the sun that was warming us on the outcrop, the temp was several degrees cooler in the forest. The breeze began to pick up as well and we quickly put back on the layers and headgear we had shed while enjoying our break. Each time we passed a clearing I could tell the clouds were getting just a little bit closer.

When we got back down off Fork Ridge and onto the flats of the MtS again, the breeze was sucking the wisps of fog into the gaps and hollows — quite a fascinating and mysterious sight. I’m accustomed to ground-level fog early in the morning. It’s always an alluring effect at mid-day.

We passed back through each of the disparate forests, back by Mount Hardy and the waterfall. By the time we got to the meadow with the dual campsites, it was sunny again. So no need for concern about bad weather, thank goodness.

It’s always a good idea to be totally aware of your surroundings when hiking in the high country, and to be prepared. I always take a rain jacket, no matter what. It’s also a good idea to have extra socks, gloves, hats and layers in your pack just in case. Particularly when hiking in December, or even later in winter, the temperature can change 20-30° very quickly. Sudden wind can be relentless, and if you get caught in a hail storm, it is life threatening. Just remember where you are. This is wilderness, not some friendly neighborhood civic park.

When we got back to the car, we put away our hiking gear and pulled out our conscientious “Leave No Trace” gear. When hiking in this vicinity once before, my friend and I had noticed a campsite near the road that was completely and totally littered. This site was so full of trash that it frankly offended us when we came upon it that day. We weren’t prepared back then, but on this day we were. By the time we were through we had filled two large trash bags with bottles and cans, milk jugs and aluminum foil — junk that did not belong in the wilderness.

Best HikeTo summarize, the Mountains to Sea and Green Mountain Trails in Middle Prong Wilderness should always be on your list of weather and seasonal appropriate hikes in the Western North Carolina high country. If you love forested hikes, you will see a wide variety. If you like the high vistas, the outcrop on Fork Ridge offers views that will inspire you. For the water enthusiasts, part of the trail even follows a babbling brook with the chance to see a surprise waterfall. I highly recommend it. For us, it was a great day, and I would label this one a best hike.

Updated August 26, 2014: Time for another visit to this magnificent region of Middle Prong Wilderness. Realizing we had never been there in summer, we wanted to check out the trail condition. There were a few spots in the meadows where the late summer foliage like the goldenrod were hanging over the trail, but most of it was still easily navigable. There was a slight hint of autumn in the air and on the trees, making it a most delightful day.

We found a line of puffy white clouds wafting up the valley formed by Hwy 215 between Fork Ridge and the Balsams that prevented a clear view of the Sams, but it was still delightful at the rock outcropping on Green Knob. I know I will continue to return for this hike time and time again. It is simply one of the best in the WNC high country.

Update July 2, 2016: Here are a few more photos from a visit in early summer. Compare for seasonal differences.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

The Mountains to Sea Trail spans the width of North Carolina, running from the Great Smoky Mountains in the west, to the Outer Banks of Coastal Carolina. Much of the trail in the mountainous part of the state is near or parallels the Blue Ridge Parkway. This section of the MST along the parkway has been designated a National Recreation Trail. With elevations well above 5000 feet, there are segments in Haywood County that make nice day hikes in the high country. One of those is Rough Butt Bald at milepost 427. This hike occurred on Thursday, March 15, 2012 from 10:15am to 1:30pm. Our plan was to take the Mountains to Sea Trail from the Rough Butt Bald Overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway around and over Rough Butt Bald for a view of South Carolina, then return the way we came.

We haven’t been up in the high country since winter set in, so it was with great delight that we turned onto the Blue Ridge Parkway to head for Middle Prong Wilderness. It was so wonderful to be back up in black balsam spruce country — to see the long distance views of the Blue Ridge. Nothing against hiking at 4000 feet, but it’s an entirely different world at 6000 feet.

The Rough Butt Bald Overlook on the parkway has a beautiful view south toward Lake Toxaway and the South Carolina upstate. Directly across the parkway from the overlook, on the north side, is the trailhead for the Mountains to Sea Trail (MST). As we plunged into the shadows of the old growth forest we knew immediately that we were back home. The forest and the terrain are so unlike what we had been hiking in all winter. The smells from the spruce, fir and pine are invigorating. The forest floor is a bed of ground cedar, fern and moss. The trail is covered with evergreen needles rather than leaves. The deciduous trees are mostly birch rather than oak and poplar.

The forest is damp and murky, though there was hardly any snow this winter. We never saw any pockets of un-melted snow hidden in the shade. The moss on downed trees seems as though it has been growing for centuries. Lichens and other fungus have been inhabiting this wilderness undisturbed for a long, long time. There may not have been snow, but there was obviously a lot of wind as there was considerable downed timber across the trail. We tried to move what we could.

After nearly a mile we reached Buckeye Creek and the intersection with Buckeye Gap Trail. We took a hard left to stay on the MTS. The forest changed as we went through stands of new birch that still clung to their dried, crumbling leaves. Like the birch leaves, the trail clung to the butt in spots, with the edge tumbling off to the north. Occasionally the trees would clear enough to catch a glimpse of the mountains of the Great Balsam Range in that same direction.

As the trail winds northwesterly paralleling the parkway, we would get an intermittent peek at the road. The trail is far enough away, however, so you don’t get any of the road noise. All we were hearing was the sound of songbirds and breeze in the treetops, and then suddenly despite a forecast for clear skies until late in the afternoon, we heard the rumble of far-away thunder. It definitely grabbed our attention as it’s not advisable to get caught atop a mountain in a thunderstorm. So we kept our eyes and ears peeled for the slightest sense that the weather was moving any closer.

About a mile and a half in, the trail takes a northerly turn toward Haywood Gap, the other end of the Buckeye Gap loop mentioned above. At Haywood Gap, the MTS turns to the left directly toward the parkway, and the Haywood Gap Trail turns right down the hollow. It’s just a couple hundred yards to the parkway crossing from the gap. The trail crosses the parkway at about milepost 426.5 heading due west. Horsebone Gap is to the south and Rough Butt Bald to the west.

Oddly enough, the forest isn’t quite as dense on this southwesterly side of the parkway. The ground also has more leaves and less needles. There is more sun exposure as the trail begins to skirt the southern side of Rough Butt Bald. Curiosity got the best of me since so many of the mountains around here are named “butt this” and “butt that.” So I looked it up. Butt is a term describing how a mountain breaks off or “butts” off sharply. You can thank me later.

The only real climbing on this hike begins here. The elevation gains almost 500 feet in the next mile, not steep by any means. The higher the trail gets, the more laurel and rhododendron begin to appear. Some of these rhodies are extremely mature with gnarly trunks about four inches in diameter. They’ve been here for awhile. After reaching the plateau of the butt, the vegetation changes again.

We entered a thick blackberry patch that spanned the trail on both sides. It is obviously a trail maintenance nightmare for the volunteers as we noticed trail markers about every 50 feet so they could keep their bearings when whacking the brush. Occasionally we would hear the tell-tale thump, thump, thump of a grouse warning us that we were invading its territory. Despite the stark nature of the late winter season, we were beginning to see just a hint of color in the foliage as evidenced by the picture at the top of this post.

About a mile after crossing the parkway the trail reaches a ledge on the south side of Rough Butt Bald with a semi-clear view of the valleys and ridges far away to the south. We could see Balsam Lake, a small recreation area, and even further in the distance, Lake Toxaway. To our left (southeast) was Wolf Mountain, and to our right the vast expanse of Nantahala National Forest. Way, way off in the distance was upstate South Carolina. This looked like a nice spot for lunch. We couldn’t find any outcroppings so we just pulled up a little piece of trail and took a seat.

We could see more overcast and hear more thunder far to the east, but so far all was well in our neck of the woods. Last week we had lunch under a tree in the rain and wind, but not this time. After lunch, we continued on the trail with a plan to turn around if the trail began a steep descent or if the bad weather got closer. Well, it was only another two-tenths mile before the trail began a steep zig-zag down the south side of the mountain. So this was our cue to turn and head back to our origin.

As we went back around Rough Butt Bald, we found a spot where we could climb farther up off-trail to a small clearing. Turns out we couldn’t see more of the surrounding vistas, but there was a beautiful black balsam stand at the top of the bald. When we got back to the parkway crossing, we could see the sky was beginning to clear considerably. The grey overcast was being replaced with the cerulean blue you get at high elevations, and white puffy clouds.

The return on the north side of the parkway was uneventful, simply a repeat of the awe found within the old growth forest. When we popped back out on the parkway at the overlook, the sun was out in full grandeur. I stopped to take several pictures of the Blue Ridge Mountains from the overlook while my hiking buddy talked with a group of long-distance bicycle riders who were taking a break. The Blue Ridge Parkway is enjoyable recreation for hikers, bikers, and motorists of all sorts. It’s not a destination. Just being there is the adventure and the lure.

As we drove back to our parkway exit, we began to see wet ground, and then white ground. Heh? As we turned off the parkway and onto Hwy 276 for our drive down off the mountain, the white stuff got thicker and deeper. Apparently all that thunder we heard before was a localized hail storm that had dumped enough to completely cover the road about an inch deep. Amazing! I sure am glad the storm wasn’t 10-15 miles further west as we would have been really scrambling to get out of the woods and off the mountain. As it was, it made the drive on the very curvy, very steep Hwy 276 somewhat tenuous.

There aren’t many trails in Middle Prong Wilderness as there are in the adjacent Shining Rock Wilderness. I wish there were more because I love the beauty of the area. This is a very nice three hour hike that is easy to do. You needn’t be in superb physical condition, nor have all the latest hiking gadgets and gizmos. Take some water and a snack and give it a go. Just beware the elevation. If you aren’t used to it, mind your pace, and take time to assimilate.

Update January 19, 2017 – It has been unusual for the Blue Ridge Parkway to be open in winter. For the past several years that has not been the case. So why not take a trip to the high country when the opportunity is available. Much of the forest along the Mountains to Sea Trail near Rough Butt Bald is evergreen, so it doesn’t look much different in mid-January than it did on my previous March visit. See for yourself with the new photos below.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

The Middle Prong Wilderness is west of North Carolina Hwy. 215 and north of the Blue Ridge Parkway. It is named after the Middle Prong of the Little Pigeon River that runs through the heart of the wilderness. This is remote territory in the high country near 6000 feet. Prepare yourself for heavy breathing — from exertion, and from natural beauty. Buckeye Gap Trail takes you to Middle Prong, then Haywood Gap Trail follows the river back up the drainage. This hike occurred on November 5, 2010 beginning at 8:00AM and ending about 2:00PM. Our goal on this day was to hike Buckeye Gap Trail to the bottom of Buckeye Gap where the trail intersects with Haywood Gap Trail for the climb back to the origin. The trailhead is at 5400 feet elevation and we were treated to the first early snowfall of the season. The dusting of snow made for a beautiful hike.

We got an early start on this hike because we knew it would be a long one. What we didn’t know was it had snowed overnight at elevations above 3500 feet. There sure wasn’t any snow on the ground at home. The 13.5 mile drive on the Blue Ridge Parkway to the trailhead kept getting snowier the higher we climbed. As we were parking at the Rough Butt Bald Overlook, a parkway maintenance worker pulled up in his pickup truck. He warned that the National Park Service may be coming along to close the Parkway at any time. The good news was Hwy. 215 was between us and the gate. So even if they closed the parkway, we could still exit on 215 when we finished our hike. Another prime example of Meanderthal thinking. I changed from low top to high top hiking boots because of the snow, and off the three of us went.

This hike begins with a stretch on the Mountains to the Sea Trail. The trailhead is located on the opposite side of the parkway road from the overlook. It is reasonably well marked. Along the MtS Trail we had 6110′ Mount Hardy to our right and the Buckeye Creek drainage to our left. When we rounded one particular bend in the trail, there was a nice look back toward the parkway at the snow covered forest in the distance. After 1.4 miles we reached Buckeye Creek and then the intersection with Buckeye Gap Trail. The next 1.9 miles is a comfortable, level stretch through a mostly hardwood forest. The trail itself is in very good condition. Fork Ridge is above on the right. With the overnight snow, it was very pleasant.

From this point on, things changed, dramatically. The Buckeye Gap Trail makes a sharp left turn along Grassy Ridge Branch to begin its descent into the Middle Prong drainage. Unfortunately, we missed it, and apparently so had hundreds of people before us. There was clearly a trail straight ahead, but after about 300 yards, it simply vanished. Many people realized the same thing at about the same time; this is a false trail. So we backtracked, and sure enough, there was the turn to head steeply down… and suddenly it was slick. As long as we had been on level trail, the snow had not been a problem. The trail went down 1,800 feet in the next 1.2 miles. There were freshly fallen leaves under the 1/2 inch of snow adding to the slippage. I went down on my butt three different times. Nothing bruised but my ego. Finally, we reached the intersection with Haywood Gap Trail which comes up from the Sunburst camping area along with the Middle Prong of the Little Pigeon River.

And it was stunning. The picture at the top of this report was taken of the snow dusting the rhododendron along the bank of the stream. This was a great time to have our lunch and enjoy the scenery. But just as we had descended 1,800 feet to get to the junction, we now had to climb that same distance up Haywood Gap. The trail followed the river for about a mile and the rhododendron was plentiful. It always grows very well in this region next to a steady water supply. There is plenty of water, and plenty of rhododendron. The trail passed through several snow-covered rhodo canopies that were breathtaking.

The next two miles is a hump, all uphill. We passed Beartrap Knob on our right, and we paused for breath. We crossed the other end of Buckeye Creek cascading down to meet the Middle Prong, and we paused to whine about our burning legs. Don’t get me wrong, I love to hike, and I love the exercise, but y’know steep is steep. It hurts! It’s a long two miles.

Eventually the trail reaches Haywood Gap, and meets up with the Mountains to the Sea Trail to return to Rough Butt Bald Overlook. Also, the parkway is only another 100 yards ahead. We opted to finish the hike on the parkway figuring if it was closed there wouldn’t be any cars. Sure enough, there weren’t. The last .8 mile we walked the silent, peaceful parkway.

As we drove back north on the parkway, when we reached Hwy. 215, just as the maintenance worker had predicted in the morning, they had closed the parkway. So we could not get back to Hwy. 276 to return home. Instead we took 215 off the mountain and then Hwy. 64 to Brevard. It was a little bit longer, but it is always a beautiful drive. The snow made this hike. It was fabulous.

Update 06/11/2013:

We decided to go back for a seasonal update on this loop through Middle Prong Wilderness. While our first trip had given us a surprise covering of snow, this hike followed a week of heavy rain in Western North Carolina. The creeks and river, and the tall grasses let us know they had been drinking in all the moisture.

In November the leaves were off the trees and we could see through the forest. In June the woods are a luscious, flourishing fresh promise. It was like a rainforest with large fungus growing on the trunks, and fields of verdant grass lining the trail beneath the overhanging canopy of poplar, beech and birch. The terrain is rugged and remote, a true wilderness.

The grass made the legs and shoes very wet from the rain and early morning dew, and we found out right away from the first creek crossing that this was going to be an entirely different water day. Even the seeps were running deep and fast off the drainage from Mt. Hardy.

Nowhere was that more evident than the one crossing of Middle Prong River itself. We were looking at a 15 foot wide, two feet deep torrent of whitewater. We checked up and down river for an easier egress, but the bank was lined with coarse rhododendron thicket as far as we could see. Well, if you’re going to be dumb, you better be tough.

We shed our boots and socks, tied the laces together and wrapped them around our necks, and took the plunge. The frigid cascade of spring runoff was an assault on our senses, and our sensibilities. It was fist bumps all around though as the three of us remained standing throughout. The air was heavy with relief. Put another wilderness adventure notch on the Meanderthals belt.

There were still difficult crossings of Buckeye Creek and Possum Branch yet to come, but as you can see, we lived to tell about it. That’s the lasting impression I will leave you with of Middle Prong Wilderness in the spring. Very, very demanding and dangerous water crossings. The spring green of the forest is very beautiful, and enticing, but be careful around the water. Enjoy the new photos.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.