Sure, there are lots and lots of wildflowers in April at Whiteoak Sink and on the hillside at the Townsend Y to make this hike seriously entertaining. But there is a lot more to the Schoolhouse Gap/Chestnut Top combination hike than abundant spring flowers. The views into Townsend from the Chestnut Top ridge are notable, and the forest that surrounds you throughout is enchanting. Since this would be a very lengthy hike as an out and back, my brother and I did it as a shuttle hike, parking a car at each end. We hiked the Schoolhouse Gap and Chestnut Top trails on Wednesday, April 18, 2019 beginning at 8:00AM and finishing about 2:15PM. Our plan was to park a car at the Townsend Y, take the other car to the Schoolhouse Gap trailhead, then hike the two trails back to the Y.

You better be an early bird to catch the parking space at Schoolhouse Gap trailhead throughout the month of April, otherwise you’ll be hoofing it an additional half mile just to start your hike. The parking at this very popular spot fills quickly. We started out leaving one car at the Chestnut Top trailhead at about 7:45, then 15 minutes later, when we arrived at Schoolhouse Gap there were already a half dozen cars ahead of us. The early start makes for dark pictures first thing, as it takes quite awhile for the sun to rise above the ridges that surround this trail.

You notice immediately that Schoolhouse Gap Trail is a former road. Built by Dr. Isaac Anderson in the mid-19th century, the goal was to combine a trail from Tennessee to Bote Mountain with one from North Carolina to Spence Field. Dr. Anderson did his part. Unfortunately, those confounded Carolinians dropped the ball, and Dr. Anderson’s goal of creating a means of commerce and missionary work was never realized. Now, however, more than 150 years later hikers reap the benefit of the work.

The trail begins a gradual climb alongside Spence Branch. Look on the hillside opposite the creek for a variety of spring ephemeral wildflowers. Even in late summer, early fall, expect to see lobelias and cardinal flowers. Just past a mile you reach Dorsey Gap and the junction with Turkeypen Ridge Trail, a means of reaching Cades Cove on foot.

Another 100 feet beyond that is the Whiteoak Sink manway. There is no signage here, as it is not an official trail. You will recognize it by the wooden barrier to keep horses from entering the basin. I’ve previously written about Whiteoak Sink, so I won’t repeat, but you can see my report and photo galleries here. As long as you are on Schoolhouse Gap Trail, Whiteoak Sink is a must see during the month of April.

Once you’ve returned from the marvelous trip to Whiteoak Sink, rejoin Schoolhouse Gap trail to resume the journey deep into the woods south of Townsend. You’ll pass through stands of pine and oak with their enticing scents in the greening season. It’s another 1.2 miles gently uphill to Schoolhouse Gap overlooking Townsend, but this hike doesn’t quite go all the way to the gap. 0.2 before is the junction with Chestnut Top Trail. Take a right here.

Maples and hickories can also be found in this forest. Combined with sourwood trees, they create the brilliant crimson hues that blanket this ridge in the fall. Chestnut Top Trail continues climbing for a little less than another mile until reaching the crest of the Chestnut Top ridge.

From the Chestnut Top ridge the mountains are greening nicely

The trail makes a dip here, to Bryant Gap, then resumes a gradual climb until reaching the highest point 1.5 miles from the Schoolhouse Gap junction. The northern park boundary is on your left through this area. Once you reach this summit it is, as they say, all downhill from here. Some of it is actually quite steep, reaching a 5% grade, a reason we chose to make this hike from west to east.

The forest really is nice along this stretch. It switches from stands of pine, to hardwoods. While I haven’t been here in fall, there is bound to be an abundance of nuts on the trail bed. Nuts usually means bears too, so keep an eye out for signs of their presence. Look too for old chestnut stumps, the namesake of this trail. I always imagine what the forests of the Smokies must have been like 200 years ago when the mighty chestnuts ruled. Inspiring.

Long switchbacks ease the descent. All the while we were glad we didn’t come up this way. With about a mile to go you begin to hear the road sounds of the Townsend Y. A word of caution: in summer the beautiful wildflowers that are pronounced for this last mile are replaced by everyone’s favorite… poison ivy. Just be aware.

The final half mile descent parallels the Townsend road, and the floral bouquet is omnipresent. Look for fire pinks and trillium, stonecrop and violets, lots and lots of purple phacelia, and toothwort, bloodroot, and hepatica. Tons and tons of them. In fact, it’s one of the prized displays in the park.

Finally, when you reach the bottom, cross Townsend road to the parking area to retrieve your vehicle. We then drove back to the beginning to get the other car as well.

Summarizing this hike, if Smokies spring wildflower gazing is a wish, then these trails are definitely for you. Both Whiteoak Sink and the Chestnut Top Trail’s hillside near the Y are some of the best in the park. But don’t discount the beauty of the forest along Chestnut Top ridge, and the views of Townsend from high above. This one is definitely recommended. If you’re a really strong hiker, then consider taking this hike from east to west, but for oldsters like me, the west to east direction is the ticket.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

With the perpetual crowd at The Sinks location in the Smokies, it was surprising to me that hardly anyone hikes this trail that starts at the popular waterfall along Little River Road. Another surprise was the abundance of spring ephemeral wildflowers found along the trail. I counted more than a dozen varieties, and plenty of each. Once you reach Meigs Creek, it’s time to change to your water shoes as you will be crossing the creek frequently. My brother and I hiked Meigs Creek Trail to the first crossing on Tuesday, April 17, 2019 beginning at 2:30PM and finishing about 4:45PM. Our plan was to take the trail to Upper Meigs Falls, then return.

There are a couple of nature trails that take off from The Sinks parking area, so be sure you aren’t starting out the wrong direction. Meigs Creek Trail is on the west side, beyond the stone overlook. It is clearly marked with a Park Service trail sign. It starts up a fancy stone stairway, then levels out as it enters the forest.

And a nice forest it is, oaks and maples mostly, beginning the spring greening on this beautiful mid-April day. Soon, on your left, you will reach a swampy area that once was the channel for Meigs Creek prior to the logging days of the early 20th century.

You make a sharp right turn and begin the ascent of a ridge of Curry He Mountain. The trail is lined with christmas fern and dog hobble, and hundreds of early spring wildflowers. Look for violets and chickweed, dwarf iris and foamflower, lots and lots of purple phacelia, toothwort and bellwort, and plenty of white trillium.

The sounds of Little River below to the right become more muted as you near the top of the initial 400 foot climb. The plentiful mountain laurel that lines the trail will be in full bloom in May, and huckleberry bushes provide a nice late summer snack. Short leaf and white pines mix with the oaks and maples to provide a nice canopy of shade to relieve you from the climb.

Just a warning: Adopt-a-Trail volunteers say they’ve spotted timber rattlers on the sunny spots in warm weather, though that was not our experience in April.

Upon reaching the crest of the ridge, the trail turns east and begins a modest descent, before turning to the south for its arrival at Meigs Creek. This is the first of 18 stream crossings… yes, 18. Have you been practicing your rock hopping? Hopefully so, because you will sure need it.

The crossings are all easy in low water, less so at moderate levels, and may require water shoes and rolled up pants following a rainy period. The latter is what we encountered, and we weren’t prepared with appropriate footwear, mainly because we kinda added this trail on the fly after hiking elsewhere earlier in the day.

So we turned around at this point, but I will be back with my trusty MacKenzie’s in the future to explore the rocky walls and narrow valley that are further upstream. There is also a waterfall up there.

Summarizing Meigs Creek Trail, use this hike to fill a couple hours as far as the first creek crossing like we did, or continue to the end for a seven mile round trip. It’s a surprisingly nice wildflower hike in April. Combine that with spring greening for a very colorful venue. If you wish to continue through the 18 creek crossings, either go during the dry season, or bring appropriate shoes and perhaps a hiking pole.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

This trail climbs from East Vail into Eagles Nest Wilderness alongside Gore Creek. There are some short steep sections that wind through meadows and aspen groves which change to spruce-fir stands as the elevation increases. Also look for a wide variety of wildflowers in season. Particularly during spring runoff, Gore Creek rages down the drainage with its series of fast moving cascades. A short hike along the creek can provide pleasant picnic spots or great fishing opportunities. My brother Dave and I hiked the lower Gore Creek Trail on Wednesday, June 6, 2018 beginning at 7:00AM and finishing about 9:45AM. Our plan was to climb to the first view of Gore Range, then return along the same path.

You can take Gore Creek Trail 12 miles farther and 3,000 feet higher into Eagles Nest Wilderness, but I had an appointment with the highway later in the day. Since this was the last day with my brother after nearly three weeks on the road, we wanted to get in one last hike. It seemed only right that we do it in his backyard. Our plan was a lot less than 12 miles.

As usual, we were up at the crack of dawn to begin. Usually this is to enjoy the golden hour after sunrise, but there was another reason for this hike. There is very limited parking at the trailhead, and the spots are taken rather quickly. Vail PD will ticket if you aren’t in designated parking.

Securing the first spot, we hit the trail shortly before 7:00. Dave warned me that this trail is a series of short, very steep climbs, followed by brief level stretches, then more climbing. He was right. Within the first half mile we had already climbed 300 feet.

I’ve been to the Rocky Mountains many times in July for the abundant wildflower display, but early June seemed to me to be, well, too early. So I was very pleasantly surprised with the number and wide variety of blossoms that greeted us. Plus, they were already fully bloomed out so early in the morning. The wildflowers wake up early here. The balsamroot in particular was really putting on a fantastic display.

The lower mile of Gore Creek Trail takes you through a young aspen forest. At this time of year, the leafing was a brilliant almost lime green. Combined with the golden rays of the sun, it made a verdant essence that pulls you deeper and deeper into the woods.

At the half mile mark you reach a clearing that affords views of the Vail Valley behind you. The eastern shoulders of Vail Mountain, with its many avalanche chutes, stand tall above. Some snow still remained on the highest of the knobs.

Soon you also begin hearing the telltale rushing sound of moving water as you approach Gore Creek. The forest begins a change to spruce-fir up here. Combine the compelling evergreen scent with the freshness of cold, crisp Rocky Mountain rushing water for an aromatic sensation.

The flowers, the creek, and the trees create a pleasant, fresh fragrance.

The trail makes a short dip of about 50 feet, then resumes climbing in earnest, a total of 400 more feet over the next mile. The trail takes a more direct route up the drainage, while Gore Creek twists and turns along its descent. This means you leave the creek, then return to its banks every few hundred yards.

Since I had an eight hour drive ahead of me later in the day, our goal was to only climb until we had the first view of the majestic Gore Range mountains ahead of us. One final push over perhaps the steepest rise yet got us there, just past 1.5 miles up. There’s a great outcrop at this point with plenty of comfortable seats.

It was time for a snack, and to enjoy the views in every direction. Ahead, you can follow the drainage up and into the valley at the base of the massive peaks of Gore Range. Behind, the snow capped summit of eastern Vail Mountain is a reminder that skiiers were there just a short six weeks before. There is also the everpresent sound of Gore Creek.

We were seeing other hikers now, some just out for morning exercise with their dog, others in full backpack and plans to camp far up in Eagles Nest Wilderness. It was a glorious day for hiking… bright and sunny, with a mild chill in the air to keep you from overheating while exerting. That’s what is great about Rocky Mountain hiking in Spring.

Despite wanting to go further, because of later plans it was time to turn around. There were even more flowers out on the way down, and the sky was turning that deep, rich Rocky Mountain blue.

As I spent this final hour on the trail with Dave, I thought about the many adventures we had been on the last 17 days. We saw all the major sights in western South Dakota including The Badlands, Wind Cave, Mount Rushmore, Cathedral Spires and Custer State Park. We checked out Devils Tower in eastern Wyoming, and crossed the Snowy Range Scenic Byway in the southern part of the state. Then we got to experience the grand stateliness of Bryce Canyon and the stark rocky desert at Capitol Reef.

Walking through this lush aspen woodland reminded me of the contrasts in geology and plant life of the American West. Here, we were strolling through the freshest water-fed forest. We had also seen barren landscapes that hardly see a drop of water. Yet all so exceptionally beautiful in many, many different ways. I invite you to go back and review the Trail Reports from the last couple weeks so you can experience this enjoyable journey with us.

I still had one more solo hike planned, in Arkansas, on my way back east, but this was it with Dave. I am extremely grateful to him for sharing this outstanding trip. We had many great experiences, saw lots of wild things, and once again renewed our mutual love of the great outdoors.

Summarizing Gore Creek Trail, we barely scratched the surface of what is available here. As mentioned, you can go 12 miles into Eagles Nest Wilderness. There is even another trail up there to Deluge Lake that will really test your stamina. But if you’re visiting Vail Valley and looking for a lovely few hours trek into the woods, this one is highly recommended. Bring a picnic or a fishing pole and enjoy some Rocky Mountain relaxation.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

The Castle Trail is the longest in Badlands National Park, but can be broken up with three distinct trailheads. Medicine Root connects with Castle Trail at Saddle Pass and Old Northeast Road creating a loop of about five miles. The terrain is mixed grass prairie and arroyo, with views of the Badlands pinnacles throughout. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife. It is abundant. Hope for a dry day when hiking in the Badlands. Mud is quick to form and very goopy. My brother Dave and I hiked this loop on Monday, May 28, 2018 beginning at 8:30AM and finishing about 1:15PM. Our plan was to hike the loop clockwise, starting at the Old Northeast Road trailhead, then add a tail to the loop by continuing on Castle Trail toward the Window and Door.

A few days earlier we hiked the western portion of Castle Trail to Saddle Pass. It was our intention on this day to check out the central area of the prairie, including Medicine Root Trail. This portion of Castle Trail also goes to Saddle Pass where it picks up Medicine Root.

We were a bit apprehensive on our way to Badlands National Park, because just like our previous visit, there had been a rain storm the night before. The Badlands become pretty much unhikeable when very wet. The clay that forms the foundation becomes very soft and adheres to everything it touches. When we arrived at the trailhead, there were puddles, but the ground surface seemed to be reasonably firm. Perhaps this would work out after all.

We started out on Castle Trail heading west. Unfortunately, for the first half mile, a line of power poles dominates the landscape as it takes electricity to the Visitor Center and to the campground. Once past that, the trail approaches the edge of the Badlands Wall, past deep arroyos that demonstrate the power of erosion.

It’s a barren landscape here with very little grass, unlike the other side of the loop. It can be difficult to follow the trail across this landscape. Fortunately the Park Service has recognized that, and strategically placed red stakes to aid with navigation.

The next mile the path weaves through a maze of spires, buttes, sod tables, and fins interspersed with open prairie. The spires are to your left (south), while the prairie is on your right (north). I should note the Castle Trail is fully exposed to the elements. There are no trees. There is no shade. If it rains, you will get wet. So come prepared. Sunscreen and a hat are a must, and it’s best to have rain gear with you just in case.

At about 2.2 miles you arrive at Saddle Pass, and an opportunity to view the south side of the Badlands Wall. There is a great overlook of the colorful spires erupting from the valley floor 200 feet below, as well as long distance views of the White River Valley and the faraway community of Interior.

We happened to arrive when there was a busload of school kids climbing up the pass from below on this Memorial Day holiday. They all wanted to show their friends how high they could climb by scaling the tallest spires and pinnacles. After awhile though, the screaming that went along with that got a bit tiresome, so Dave and I moved on to the Medicine Root Trail.

This is the view looking south across the White River Valley from Saddle Pass.

Medicine Root heads in a northeasterly direction for a half mile as it takes you away from the Badlands Wall and deep into the prairie grassland. The trail marker stakes are now green to match the prairie. There are places out here where grass is all you can see in every direction. With grass also comes wildflowers. We came across patches of daisy fleabane, goatsbeard, and a meadow with hundreds and hundreds of primrose.

Medicine Root is also a bit more secluded. We did happen upon the occasional hiker, but nothing like the Castle Trail. Frankly, there isn’t as much spectacular scenery to see over here, but it’s still different from mountain greenery that I’m used to back home. Perhaps that’s the reason fewer folks come this way.

Eventually the trail turns more to the east and continues across open prairie. At one point we came to a place where the trail dropped into a wide, grassy arroyo and we quickly discovered how much water had fallen in the recent storms. While you couldn’t see it beneath the grass, there was at least 2-3 inches of standing water in the arroyo.

We quickly looked for a place to easily climb the arroyo wall and get back up on dry land, ending up on opposite sides of the arroyo for a few hundred yards or so. As we continued, we encountered other areas that were somewhat swampy too, kind of tip-toeing our way through. Soon after, we also found a handful of trees, the first we’d seen all day.

After about a mile and a half on Medicine Root the trail turns southeasterly and you can once again see the spires and pinnacles of the Badlands Wall… and also the power poles that follow Old Northeast Road.

The final half mile of the loop is alternating grass and clay, grass and clay, as we got back to the car and took a break. The air temperature was warming, so I shed one layer, ate a snack, and sat down for awhile. Our plan now was to continue east on the Castle Trail, heading toward the Door and Window area.

This section of Castle Trail is on the east side of Old Northeast Road and immediately crosses a wood and iron footbridge over a wash. You walk around a series of Badlands pinnacles and are then hidden from the road. We passed a few other hikers coming in the opposite direction who gave us a tip that there were bighorn rams ahead.

As you can imagine, that excited me, so I picked up my pace. We had seen the ewes and lambs on a previous day, but this would be our first opportunity to check out some rams. Half a mile later, there they were, gently taking a siesta on the rim of an arroyo. We took lots of pictures, then left them alone as we continued eastward.

One of three bighorn rams we encountered along the eastern section of Castle Trail.

As you continue eastward on Castle Trail, the grass of the prairie goes away, and you wander in, around, and among the Badlands pinnacles and spires. At one point we reached an area where there was nothing but clay. Based on our previous experience with the Badlands mud, we were quite grateful that there hadn’t been more rain the night before. This place would have been impassable.

When we got to a point where we could see the major parking lot at the far eastern end of Castle Trail, we decided to turn around. When we got back to the grassy arroyo, the bighorn sheep had moved on, but it didn’t take long for us to find them… or should I say for them to find us.

It seemed as if they were following us. Everywhere we went, they came along too. If we crossed an arroyo, so did the rams. If we stayed up on the prairie grass, so too the bighorns, as they would pause and graze for awhile. At one point, as we rounded a turn in an arroyo, there they were no more than 50 feet away. That’s the photo at the top of this post.

They never acted threatening, nor of course did we. It just seemed that we were all heading in the same direction. Finally, after a quarter mile, they peeled off and began climbing one of the pinnacles off to the south. I’ve seen a lot of wildlife in my time hiking. This may have been one of the most interesting, and enjoyable, encounters.

We were almost back to the car now, passing a few hikers going the other way. We returned the favor and notified them to watch for the rams ahead. After a very overcast morning, the sky was beginning now to finally clear. We could actually see blue, a nice ending to a very pleasant hike.

Summarizing the Castle/Medicine Root Loop, this is one that doesn’t require much exertion. It’s pretty much level the whole way around the loop. If six miles is a little too much, you can make it shorter in a number of ways. You can also hike the full length of Castle Trail and back at about 10.5 miles if that’s your thing. Be prepared for weather changes, and cover your skin to prevent sunburn. There’s lots to see along this route, so take your time and enjoy.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

I think of the Hell Canyon Trail in Black Hills National Forest, South Dakota as two hikes. There’s the stroll through the canyon with lush trees and bushes and a wide assortment of colorful wildflowers. Then, there’s the path along the canyon rim that exposes the devastation of the 2000 Jasper Fire, the largest in Black Hills history. The undergrowth is recovering nicely from the wildfire, but the trees may be gone for a century or more. One can only imagine the beauty that must have once existed here. My brother Dave and I hiked this loop on Sunday, May 27, 2018 beginning at 6:30AM and finishing about 11:15AM. Our plan was to hike the loop counter-clockwise, starting in the canyon and finishing on the rim.

As we typically do, Dave and I started this hike just past dawn, so we enjoyed seeing the sun rising over the east canyon wall and lighting up the cliffs of the west side with its brightness. Almost immediately there was a patch of wild dwarf iris, a portent of things to come.

It was recommended to us by our new friend at the Custer Econolodge that we start in the canyon, because the grade to the rim at the far end is a lot more gentle. As it turns out, she was exactly right. If you start out climbing the rim, it is pretty darn steep. Waiting until the north end to climb to the rim is definitely the way to go.

The first half mile gives you a good idea of the size of the canyon. The rock cliffs on each side rise a couple hundred feet and dominate the landscape. The canyon is narrower here. One thing that seemed odd to me is there’s no evidence of the creek or river that carved this canyon eons ago.

The next mile the canyon widens, and is surrounded by unburned forest. Mostly ponderosa pine, there is also some birch and aspen to help make things really, really green in late May. Because of the lush ground level vegetation, I suspect this trail may even become a bit overgrown in the summer months… unless there are friendly local volunteers who come out to cut it back.

We passed evidence of old Civilian Conservation Corps camps. They were apparently busy in Hell Canyon back in their day. Look for occasional #32 signs posted on trees as your trail markers. This is Black Hills National Forest trail #32.

After nearly a week of perfect weather in western South Dakota, on this day Dave and I had to confront a pretty powerful wind that was in our face whipping through the canyon. It even got a bit chilly, as we each pulled long sleeves out of our packs. I don’t know if this is common because of the canyon, or if we just happened to hit a windy day.

The farther we progressed into the canyon, the more the wildflowers came to life. What impressed me the most was not necessarily the abundance of flowers, but the wide variety. I bet we saw more than 30 different wildflowers through the canyon, from white and blue violets to an interesting species of columbine, from the dainty shooting stars and star solomon seal to the large clusters of hawthorne blossoms concealing the nasty, nasty spikes on the stems.

The hawthorne blossoms hide the very long spikes that grow from the stems of the bush.

As you complete the 2nd mile, the canyon narrows again and the pines become taller and larger. We encountered a horse rider coming the other way, our first contact of the day. Just past two miles, the trail makes a hard left turn and begins the ascent to the rim.

I’m going to do something a little different here from my traditional trail reports. Usually, I place the photo gallery at the bottom of the report. Since this loop is really two entirely different hikes, I’m going to post two photo galleries. The first will include pictures from down inside the canyon. Then, after viewing those, come back here and scroll below the gallery of thumbnails to a continuation of the report. Lastly, there will be another gallery from the rim portion of the hike.

For the next half mile you climb gently through stunning pine forest, with patches of deep purple harebell lining the trail. You turn to a decidedly southerly direction for the return along the bench that is below the tallest of the cliffs.

Then you see it. You pop out of the forest into the bright sunshine and see the immense devastation of the Jasper fire. It’s like a nuclear bomb went off. The trees that weren’t completely consumed in the fire are flattened, laying on the ground. It is now a treeless landscape. The only vegetation is at ground level. You can tell there used to be a lot of trees simply from all the fallen lumber, but it is now a wide open expanse.

The fire started on August 24, 2000 just west of nearby Jewel Cave National Monument. Over the next week it burned a total of 83,508 acres in the southern Black Hills and approximately 90% of the land area of Jewel Cave, including the rim of Hell Canyon. But now, 18 years later, the forest floor, no longer thick with ash, hosts a variety of plants that have rebounded since the fire. It is still ugly, but it is recovering. However, it will take a long, long time for the trees to come back.

Perhaps the most predominant wildflowers found on the slopes of the canyon rim now are the prairie goldenpea and the harebell. It seemed through the week that everywhere we went we found the delightful goldenpea. Their bright yellow clusters always brought a smile. We even wondered if maybe the goldenpea was the state flower of South Dakota because they seem everpresent. (No.)

We began to see other hikers, taking the loop in the opposite direction. Later, as we looked down into the canyon, we could see the same hikers now below, traversing the trail we had been on hours before.

We encountered these hikers with their dog up on the rim an hour before.

After about a mile, mile and a half on the rim, there is one stretch where the trail is fit tightly at the base of a cliff, with a steep dropoff on the left side. The danger isn’t really too bad, but if you are prone to vertigo, you certainly wouldn’t want to lose your balance here. Just warning… there is exposure.

Another warning. On a bright sunny day you definitely want sunscreen and a hat when hiking the rim. There is no shade. Also, hold on to your hat because of that wind I mentioned before.

Perhaps a mile from the end, the trail reaches undulating, rolling hills. So there is a bit of up and down, but nothing particularly strenuous. Soon after you reach the point where the rim begins to drop off the edge. You have views now beyond the canyon, and can see just how far the vast Jasper fire extended throughout the national forest.

The descent is about a half mile in length, with lots of switchbacks. During the whole time I was thinking to myself how glad I was to have not gone up this direction. It is considerably steeper than the gradual grade at the north end. Thank you Echo, for the tip.

Summarizing the Hell Canyon Trail, be prepared for a stark contrast of scenery. Down in the canyon it is lush and green. Along the canyon rim it is total devastation. The difference is striking. Wildfire has incredible power. This was one of my favorite hikes during the week in western South Dakota, especially the lower portion. Despite the destruction, I think you would enjoy it too. Thankfully the wildfire spared the canyon itself. If you like, just go out to the end of the canyon, then come back the same way.

I don’t normally promote businesses in my trail reports, but Dave and I had such an excellent experience at the Econolodge in Custer that I had to mention it. The staff that works there are all super friendly, helpful and knowledgeable. We stayed with them for six nights and were completely satisfied. The price is very reasonable and the amenities are all that we needed. If you’re staying in Custer, SD I highly recommend the Econolodge.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

This hike in the heart of Wind Cave National Park combines two trails to make a 5-mile loop, and the two couldn’t be any more different. Centennial Trail takes you through lush meadows, and a rocky canyon lined with pine, while Lookout Point Trail experiences the wide open spaces of the South Dakotan prairie. Centennial follows the path of Beaver Creek through the canyon. Then, watch for wildlife on Lookout Point trail including prairie dogs, bison and pronghorn. My brother Dave and I hiked this combined loop on Friday, May 25, 2018 beginning about 6:30AM and finishing at 10:15AM. Our plan was to circuit the loop clockwise, starting on Centennial and finishing up with Lookout Point.

Centennial Trail was built in 1989 to mark the 100th anniversary of South Dakota’s statehood. It is 111-miles total length that will take you through prairies and mountainous areas. The trail begins at Bear Butte State Park, travels through the Fort Mead Recreation Area, Black Hills National Forest, Custer State Park and ends in Wind Cave National Park. It was this latter, southern end, where Dave and I picked up the trail.

From the trailhead, Centennial Trail (#6) starts in the forest and descends steeply about 140 feet into a fresh, grassy meadow that on this morning was covered with a heavy coating of dew. Almost immediately, as we popped into the open, we were greeted by a white-tailed deer scampering across the meadow. She paused for a moment to check us out, and allow a picture, then continued her bounding journey up the hillside on the opposite side of the canyon.

The canyon that surrounds Centennial Trail has been carved by Beaver Creek. Don’t think of it like the slot canyons in Utah with narrow chutes and high walls. This is a wide U-shaped canyon with tall stone outcrops and ponderosa forest that stands 100 feet on either side. The creek is small, no more than 5-6 feet wide, and meanders gently through the center of the grassy meadows.

The canyon, and therefore the trail, twists and turns around and through the high outcroppings thereby presenting surprises and new meadows around each corner. There are a handful of wooden foot bridges that cross Beaver Creek. It was the dew that got our feet wet… not the creek.

Because of our early start just past dawn, we were chasing the sun around every corner. The grasses and wildflowers were waking up to the morning brightness and warmth as the dew glistened from the verdure tips. We found bluebells and larkspur, shooting stars and ragwort. The water in the creek is fresh and clear, assuring the lush meadows will be nourished.

Just as we would pop into the bright sunshine, so too would we enter shady areas with ponderosa canopies and cool air emanating from the flowing stream. It was, to put it simply, an absolutely delightful morning, our best at Wind Cave.

Moving from the shadows into the light.

At about the two mile mark you reach a trail junction at the last creek crossing. Centennial Trail continues up the hill and on for another 109 miles to northern South Dakota. You want to get on Highland Creek Trail (#7) at this point, for just about a quarter mile, until it reaches another junction with Lookout Point Trail (#4). Take a right turn (to the south) on Lookout Point Trail at the second junction and you will stay on it for the remainder of this hike.

When you turn onto Lookout Point Trail, it begins a moderate climb for about a half mile through the pine forest and back up to the ridge level. When you clear the forest, voilà, you are on the prairie. You did put on sunscreen and a hat didn’t you? Because you won’t get any more shade as you cross the prairie.

The trail now turns in a westerly direction, so the morning sun is behind you, and you’re no longer staring right into the brightness like you do in the canyon. It’s breezy. There is a near-constant wind over the wide open plains. Better tighten your hat strap under your chin.

The flowers are different now too. They are less the ephemeral varieties, and more of the small shrubs and herbs like milkvetch.

After about a half mile on the prairie you begin to hear it. It starts as quiet chirps, then as you continue it evolves into a chorus, and then a crescendo as you walk right through prairie dog town. These little guys really give it their all to warn their friends and siblings that big ole human interlopers are in the neighborhood. They really put a lot into it. With each chirp, their tails bob up and down, like cranking a water pump. It’s humorous to watch.

The trail winds among rolling hills on the plains, and the prairie dog town seemingly goes on for a mile. We happened upon one lone bison grazing on a hill to the south of us. I wondered when the bison run across the grassland if they ever step into the myriad of prairie dog holes and injure themselves. Maybe they just don’t run as much as we see on TV.

The rolling plains are home to prairie dogs, bison, and pronghorn.

Most of the other hikers we saw on this day we passed on the prairie. They had started later than us, and were headed the other direction. Probably there were others behind us as well that we just never saw because we were on the same pace. Even on a Friday in June, we mostly had these trails to ourselves. I think most of the Wind Cave visitors are going underground to see the caverns. That means more solitude for those of us who like to explore above ground.

After about two miles of crossing the prairie, the trail makes a decidedly northern turn and heads for home along the final half mile. There’s a dip into a narrow barranca with a different creek and scrubby vegetation, then a final climb back up to the original starting point in the ponderosa forest.

In summary, this moderate hike of just over five miles was, to us, the most enjoyable of the three hikes we did in Wind Cave National Park. It offers a good overview of all that the park’s above ground trails have to offer, including rolling plains, verdant meadows, wildlife and wildflowers, and a sense of grand expanse. I would recommend this hike for your entire family.

By the way, there is no requirement within Wind Cave to remain on designated trails. So, if you happen upon an area that you deem worthy of extra exploration, feel free to blaze your own path.

I don’t normally promote businesses in my trail reports, but Dave and I had such an excellent experience at the Econolodge in Custer that I had to mention it. The staff that works there are all super friendly, helpful and knowledgeable. We stayed with them for six nights and were completely satisfied. The price is very reasonable and the amenities are all that we needed. If you’re staying in Custer, SD I highly recommend the Econolodge.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Located in the remote northern corner of Wind Cave National Park, Boland Ridge Trail crosses the wide open prairie, then a series of ridge climbs offer panoramic views of the Black Hills, the Red Valley, and the western South Dakota plains beyond. Because of the isolated nature, elk and bison are often seen along this trail. In fact, we had to cut this one about a mile short because of bison on the trail. My brother Dave and I hiked Boland Ridge Trail on Thursday, May 24, 2018 beginning about 10:00AM and finishing at 12:30PM. Our plan was to go to the end of the trail and turn around, but two groups of bison made it difficult to pass, so we stopped short.

As you drive the dirt roads through the heart of Wind Cave National Park, keep your eyes peeled for wildlife. Just in the few miles between Rankin Ridge and the Boland Ridge trailhead we saw pronghorn and buffalo grazing on the vast prairie. Keep your ears open too for the chirping sound made by the prairie dogs. Oh, and please don’t run over them with your car. They will come out on the roads.

The Boland Ridge trailhead is in kind of an odd place. It’s simply out in the middle of the prairie, miles from anywhere. There’s a sign there and a few parking places off the side of the road, otherwise it’s just as nondescript as the rest of the grassland.

For the first half mile the trail traverses the prairie, crossing a small creek once. There is an old trough by the creek, perhaps formerly used by cattle ranchers. The only grazing these days is by the wild animal variety.

This area is called the Red Valley, and you can see for miles in every direction. They call Montana Big Sky country, but you get the same effect here on the South Dakota plains. You can see from horizon to horizon.

There are two small hills to be climbed, each of about 200 feet elevation gain, neither particularly steep. On this day in late May there was a variety of wildflowers including phlox and puccoon.

The pines that line the ridges here were unfortunately damaged by a grassland wildfire that swept the area in 2010. Amazingly the pine needles did not burn, but they all turned an orangish/brown hue that detracts from otherwise delightful natural beauty. Black scars are a sign of the flames that licked the tree trunks.

As we topped the second ridge the wide expanse of the rolling hills came in to view. So too did an obstruction just 50 yards away, right in the middle of the trail. A small family of bison was grazing right where we were headed. There were six right in front of us, and another two about a hundred yards farther away. They didn’t seem threatening, but we certainly didn’t plan on walking right through them.

The trail curved right through this small herd of bison.

To our left was a small hill that would take us safely around the bison, while also offering a nice view of our surroundings. There also happened to be some nice rocks at the top of the hill, perfect for sitting, and a great opportunity to change to longer lenses on our cameras. We even found some rocks under a pine tree that made a perfect lunch spot.

As we photographed the bison and enjoyed our sandwiches, we looked ahead toward the next ridge on the trail. There was a dip into a small valley, then another climb back up to the level where we were. And… there were more bison over there too!

It was looking like if we wanted to hike to the end of Boland Ridge Trail that we would have to continue mingling amongst the giant mammals that outweighed us by ten times. Discretion became the better part of valor, and we decided it was best to just cut this hike short and be content with what we had seen so far.

The return was easier as it was mostly downhill. Even more flowers were popping out now as we entered afternoon, and there were several golf and tennis ball sized mushrooms growing on the prairie grass.

When we got back to the car we decided to continue out park road #6 northward where it enters the adjacent Custer State Park. To our right was a family of pronghorn, totally oblivious to our presence. The wildlife around Wind Cave are very accustomed to people.

In summary, this moderate hike of three to five miles will give you a good idea what the above ground terrain of Wind Cave National Park is all about. They say there are usually elk here. We didn’t see any on this day, but we sure got a treat with bison and pronghorn. Because of the remote nature of this trail, you are very likely to have it all to yourself.

I don’t normally promote businesses in my trail reports, but Dave and I had such an excellent experience at the Econolodge in Custer that I had to mention it. The staff that works there are all super friendly, helpful and knowledgeable. We stayed with them for six nights and were completely satisfied. The price is very reasonable and the amenities are all that we needed. If you’re staying in Custer, SD I highly recommend the Econolodge.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Back in the 1960’s when I was in my mid-teens, my family took a cross-country western vacation that included stops at many of the scenic and picturesque national parks along the way. Included among those was Badlands National Park, the first stop on our trip.

I remembered all my adult life the fascination I had with the Badlands, and promised myself I would return some day when I was better able to appreciate what I was seeing. It took 50 years, but I made it.

The welcome wasn’t particularly pleasant as we encountered flash flooding and sloppy Badlands mud as detailed here, but when things calmed down I was no less awestruck than I had been as a youth.

My brother Dave and I hiked quite a bit while we were there, but some of the most delightful landscapes were seen while we were simply driving the loop road waiting for things to dry out.

I was especially impressed with the Yellow Mounds area of the park, a chromatic masterpiece of earth and sky. The wildlife was plentiful, particularly bighorn sheep. We even got to see the brand new 2018 lambs as they came out to play in public along the bluffs that parallel the roadway.

There will be other reports about hiking within Badlands National Park, but here I just wanted to share a few photos that will perhaps entice you to include South Dakota whenever you are out exploring. Don’t wait 50 years. Enjoy!

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Our evening arrival to Badlands National Park coincided with a torrential storm that brought rain, wind and hail to the region. We learned the next morning that the campground was flooded, as was every arroyo in the park. We soon learned that the soft clay of the Badlands terrain does not mix well with lots of rain. Think quicksand — you sink inches with each step — thick, goopy mud that sticks to your shoes like glue. My brother Dave and I attempted to hike the Saddle Pass Trail to join the Castle Trail at Badlands on Wednesday, May 23, 2018 beginning at 7:30AM. In no time our plans changed, as the clay mud was simply impassible. Instead, we killed some time sight-seeing, and waited for the afternoon sun to begin to dry the muck. So beginning about 1:00PM we hiked the trail in the opposite direction, starting at the west trailhead for the Castle Trail.

Dave and I arrived in Wall, South Dakota just past dinner-time, checked into our motel, and headed to The Badlands National Park excited for some great sunset photos. Instead, we were greeted with 40 mph wind, stinging rain, crazy lightning, and a black pall on the entire night sky. Welcome to The Badlands.

While our evening excursion was a bust, we were up early the next morning ready for some great hiking in South Dakota. Little did we know that the storm lasted most of the night, causing flash flooding and general mayhem. At the trailhead we encountered a woman in an RV who had stayed the previous night at the nearby park campground. She reported large hail twice, and flooding of the poor tent campers who most certainly didn’t sign up for that.

At the trailhead for Saddle Pass Trail, a footbridge crosses the arroyo. There was still brown water flowing. The walls of the bridge were packed full of desert scrub debris that had washed through the arroyo from flash flooding that must have been many feet above the level of the bridge. Incredible. The trailhead sign even says, “this short, but steep trail is not recommended when wet.” After navigating our way through the debris across the bridge, we found out why.

The wet clay looks innocent enough — still a smooth surface. Dave took the first steps and realized immediately he was in one giant mess. His boots sank into the mire nearly to his ankles. I tried going in a different direction on the other side of the bridge with the same unfortunate result.

Now what? There was a grassy area to the east a hundred yards, so we tried accessing the trail from that way (see the picture at the top of this post). At least it was passable, but there was still quite a bit of standing water.

We made it around the worst of the mud and began the climb up the Badlands Wall to Saddle Pass. Another couple guys arrived about the same time and tackled the trail with us. We soon found out it wasn’t any better. The mud wasn’t soft like near the wash, but we might as well have been on ice. Seemingly for every step forward up the hill we would slide two steps back on the extremely slick mud. This was untenable.

Each step on the very slick clay must be strategically planned.

So we surrendered. The mud won. We tip-toed our way back to the car and spent 10 minutes cleaning our boots, drove back to the Visitor Center, and asked the friendly rangers how long it takes to dry. If there’s wind, he said, maybe only a matter of a few hours. The good news was that there was a bit of a breeze, and the temperature was warming. This lifted the morning fog and left an overhanging cloud layer.

We came up with a different plan. We would drive the loop road sight-seeing for awhile, then check out the other end of our planned hike at the western Castle Trailhead, hoping for dry or drying turf. The plan worked. After a few hours of picture taking and a picnic lunch, the trail was passable by 1:00. So off we went.

We did encounter just a bit of remaining mud, and a few puddles, but overall the breeze had done a nice job of drying the clay.

Castle Trail is the longest hiking trail in Badlands National Park, stretching a total of five miles from west to east. We only planned to go as far as Saddle Pass, just two miles, and tackle the eastern portion of the trail on another day.

The arroyos, or washes, that snake through the Badlands mesa are omnipresent and provide a natural drainage system for the otherwise level prairie that is the heart of the national park. The clay spires or pinnacles surround this grassland and make good markers for how far you have walked, and how far you have yet to go.

The climate seems arid, but there is obviously enough water to carve the arroyos, and to provide habitat for the very green grass and the occasional wildflowers. There really aren’t many places elsewhere in America that are quite like The Badlands. The appearance is somewhat similar to some of the redrock formations and hoodoos in Utah canyon country, but that is mostly sandstone. The hills and buttes here are made of clay.

The ecosystem on the prairie is diverse, with clay and sand, grasses and wildflowers, and water carving the arroyos.

At the two mile mark is a junction of trails, including the Saddle Pass Trail that we tried (and failed) earlier in the morning. There is also the Medicine Root Trail that makes a loop of the eastern portion of Castle Trail. That would be a hike for the coming days. For today though, we just went to Saddle Pass to examine the view we had missed out on in the morning by not being able to climb the Badlands Wall.

Now, some seven hours later, there were plenty of people coming up Saddle Pass Trail with ease, completely unaware what we had been through just a matter of hours before. Quite remarkable. In this case, the early bird didn’t get the worm. We got dirty instead.

There was quite a change at Saddle Pass. There was blue sky instead of fog. We could see for miles into the interior of the park, rather than just a few feet through the gloom. I had waited decades for a return to The Badlands, a place I barely remembered from my youth. The previous night and this day got off to a rocky start, but maybe this was going to turn out ok after all.

The two-mile stroll back flew by. I had a new spring to my step. Dave and I could tell things were getting better. We still had 20 days of adventure ahead of us, and a now positive vibe to enjoy it with.

In summary, our day didn’t go quite as planned, but still ended up with a nice introduction to Badlands National Park. Trails at the mesa level are quite easy. The Saddle Pass Trail (that we could not complete) is the only trail rated strenuous, but even it is short. The message I want to leave you with is this: as you should in most remote environs, beware of the weather. It can change things in a hurry. The Badlands is unhikeable when it’s wet, but a lot of fun when it isn’t.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

What better way to spend May Day than wildflower hunting on Pisgah National Forest? We always think of the national park in the Smokies as being the go-to destination for Spring wildflowers in Western North Carolina. However, Pisgah National Forest is right up there. As you will see from the gallery below, there is quite the wide variety.

I picked two destinations in the Pisgah Ranger District: Daniel Ridge Trail following the Daniel Ridge Creek, and the Andy Cove Nature Trail at the district Visitor Center. I was not disappointed at either location. I packed a lunch and sat on a log by a waterfall on the creek to partake.

The key in your search is to keep your eye at ground level. Most of the spring ephemerals are small, and low to the ground. Some even like to hide under the leaves of other plants. There’s no need to be in a hurry. You’re likely to miss some of the best finds as you scurry on by.

I found a couple flowers that were new to me including lyreleaf sage and ground ivy. It seems each time I go wildflower hunting I am rewarded with a new treat. Enjoy the photo gallery from my adventure, and let me know which flowers you too have found in Pisgah National Forest.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.