Kephart Prong is one of the many water drainages that give the Smokies its character and provide refreshing nourishment for all the flora and fauna. Named for Horace Kephart, an author who was very instrumental in helping the Great Smoky Mountains achieve national park status, this scenic mountain stream is especially inviting during the spring greening season. Particularly in May, the entire forest along the prong assumes a verdant glow that permeates the senses. The Civilian Conservation Corps was active along Kephart Prong and up Mount Kephart in the 1930s, building trails, bridges and roads that helped make the national park what we know and love today. My brother and I hiked this trail on Monday, May 12, 2014 beginning at 8:15AM and ending about 12:00PM. Our plan was to take the Kephart Prong Trail to its terminus at the backcountry shelter, perhaps explore a bit beyond, then return.

Horace Kephart (September 8, 1862 – April 2, 1931) was an American travel writer and librarian, best known as the author of Our Southern Highlanders, about his life in the Great Smoky Mountains of Western North Carolina. Born in Pennsylvania and raised in Iowa, Kephart found his way to WNC shortly after the turn of the century, where he lived in the Hazel Creek section of what would later become the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Later in life, worried that the Smokies were being ravaged by clear cutting, he took up the cause for saving the mountains as a national park, writing many influential articles. He campaigned hard for the establishment of the national park with photographer and friend George Masa, and lived long enough to know that the park would be created. He was later named one of the fathers of the national park. He also helped plot the route of the Appalachian Trail through the Smokies. Two months before his death in a car accident in 1931, 6,217-foot Mount Kephart was named in his honor. Kephart Prong flows down the southern flank of Mount Kephart.

The Mountain Heritage Center and Special Collections at Hunter Library, Western Carolina University have created a digitized online exhibit called “Revealing an Enigma” that focuses on Horace Kephart’s life and works. This exhibit contains documents and artifacts (photos and maps) that can be browsed or searched. Whenever you’re hiking in the Smokies, it’s quite likely you are treading on the same trails as Horace Kephart many decades ago.

The first thing the Kephart Prong Trail does at the trailhead is cross Oconoluftee River, the same river that flows by the park Visitor Center and on into the town of Cherokee. There’s never a bad time to view this picturesque river, but it is especially brilliant in May when the green plants and trees of the fresh season are so alive and radiant. That green is reflected in the crystal clear waters of the river, and of Kephart Prong.

The trail itself is a delightful track, wide and smooth, easy on the feet. At least two, and sometimes three, hikers can comfortably walk side-by-side while listening to the music of the songbirds and the russshhh of the flowing stream. About a quarter mile up the trail you will begin to notice old stone artifacts of a 1930s era Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC) camp, including a sign marker, water fountain, and stone chimney.

The CCC workers constructed much of the infrastructure in GSMNP while making their home at this camp from 1933-1942. On all of the stream crossings along Kephart Prong Trail you can choose to wade through the water, or you can cross on the original “foot logs,” built by the CCC nearly 80 years ago. The same stone foundations are still in use today, but the split logs used as a foot bridge have worn smooth and become covered with moss and algae. So watch your step — they can be quite slippery when wet. There are a total of two bridges and four foot-logs along the length of the trail.

The forest story along Kephart Prong is so lush and vibrant that you essentially never see the sky the full length of the trail. At times, it is downright dark, even in broad daylight. When I was looking through the photos I took to use for this post, I noticed that some of them even seemed to look as if they were taken indoors. When you browse the gallery below, see if you think the same thing. Obviously this forest canopy helps to cool the vegetation (and hikers) even during hot summer months.

For most of its length, the trail stays right alongside Kephart Prong, but occasionally it will divert 50 feet away. Be sure to watch for the access trails in these sections that take you to usually picturesque settings creekside with water cascading over mossy boulders. My brother and I spent probably half our time on this day scrambling around on the rocks, looking for that ideal place to locate a tripod for photos. There’s no reason to hurry on Kephart Prong.

The second mile is a little steeper than the first, but still a gentle grade. Most of the foot log crossings are in this 2nd mile. Also, in the last quarter mile are several relic railroad irons, remnants of the Champion Fibre Co. that was clear-cutting the forest in the 1920s. Thank goodness for those who founded the national park and saved the forest.

Finally you reach the old backcountry shelter on the site that was once the logging camp. There are two sleeping platforms and an indoor fireplace within the shelter. We encountered three other hikers who had stayed there overnight and were stirring to begin their new day, the first people we had seen during the entire climb.

Rather than disturbing the others, we continued a ways up Sweat Heifer Creek Trail just to check it out. It continues all the way to the Appalachian Trail near Newfound Gap, but that was not our intent. We returned to the shelter, did the same quarter mile foray up Grassy Branch Trail which also reaches all the way to the AT, then returned for our descent.

We stopped for lunch near foot log #4, and enjoyed the setting alongside the transparent water of Kephart Prong. There were hundreds of rounded pebbles on the bottom of the stream, casting various hues of brown and grey. It’s a very peaceful environment; surrounded by a green canopy of mostly beech and hemlock with the serene babbling sounds of the prong flowing slowly by to its meeting with the Oconoluftee.

Even more geraniums had popped out as the afternoon approached. I thoroughly enjoyed one particular spot along the trail with the purple geraniums on both sides. That’s the photo at the top of this post. You may click it for a larger image. Our peaceful reverie was briefly broken when a large contingent of two dozen tourists with name badges and blue hair passed by us on their ascent. It’s great that they actually got out of their bus and into the forest.

We got back to the car in a little more than three and a half hours, so it’s obvious we dawdled quite a bit enjoying the scenes and stopping for photos. With the extra length we explored up Sweat Heifer and Grassy Branch, we hiked a total of about five miles, never needing to take a deep breath. Kephart Prong is a totally easy and relaxing walk in the woods for the whole family.

Not far from the trailhead, on the way back to the park entrance, we stopped for a visit to Mingus Mill, a 19th century corn and wheat grist mill. The mill provided ground grain for local families and continued to operate until 1930 when the land, along with the mill, was purchased for inclusion in the new Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

In 1937, Mingus Mill was one of the first buildings restored as an historic structure within the new national park, one of more than 80 such restorations. The labor for the restoration work was provided by the CCC.

Update January 31, 2016: A winter-time visit to Kephart Prong is a whole different world from the greening and flowers of spring. There was snow, and ice, and views through the forest of the surrounding Great Smoky Mountains. Surprisingly the trail isn’t muddy, a testament to the firm construction by the Civilian Conservation Corps nearly a hundred years ago. Recent snow melt provided ample water to this already-picturesque branch of Oconaluftee River.

Update April 13, 2018: Kephart Prong Trail is always a good leg stretcher, and now I know, also a good early Spring wildflower destination. You have to be patient. There aren’t a lot of flowers for the first half mile or so, but beyond that you’ll find many of the same flowers that grow at most lower elevations in the national park. See for yourself in the new photo gallery below.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

The Appalachian Trail straddles the Tennessee/North Carolina state line in Great Smoky Mountains National Park for more than 70 miles. A particularly scenic day hike on the AT is the four mile stretch from Newfound Gap to Charlies Bunion, a remote and rugged outcropping that sits on the ridge between the states. Along this sharp ridge you will pass magnificent views of the Carolina Smokies to the southeast, and the massive shoulders of Tennessee’s Mt. LeConte northwest. Much of the way offers long distance viewing on both sides of the ridge, so keep your camera handy as you hop from North Carolina to Tennessee, and back. Be sure to also take a side trip to “The Jumpoff,” a precipice on the next ridge west from Charlies Bunion. This hike occurred on Thursday, May 16, 2013 from 9:10am to 4:05pm. Our plan was to hit the AT at Newfound Gap, then hike to Charlies Bunion. On the way back, we would stop at The Jumpoff for a view of Charlies Bunion from across the valley.

We left home at dawn for the two hour drive into the heart of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. I hadn’t seen my brother (the other Internet Brother) in a year, so it would be great to get back on the trail together. And we picked the Appalachian Trail to celebrate.

We’d heard so much about the landslide on Newfound Gap Road through the winter. The repairs had been completed for about a month now. We watched for it as Hwy 441 winded its way up the steep incline. Sure enough, there was a very large swath of forest leveled by the massive erosion of earth. We planned to stop on the way back for pictures.

We reached Newfound Gap, the top of the paved road in the park, and the state line between North Carolina and Tennessee. It was a very cloudy day with low-lying haze, but very little threat of thunderstorm activity… a definite deal-breaker in the high country. While gearing up we debated about layers — there was a bit of a brisk wind — and hit the trailhead just past 9:00.

The Appalachian Trail begins climbing in an easterly direction immediately as you leave the tourists at Newfound Gap behind. The stretch of trail to Charlies Bunion is over the rounded top of Mt. Ambler. You will climb moderately about 1,000 feet over the first 2.5 miles, then drop down 600 of that to the Charlies Bunion outcropping another mile and a half further. Nothing excessively strenuous.

We immediately passed a hillside covered in bluets and white violets. I had heard from others that the Smokies were alive with wildflowers this year from all the winter wetness. It’s been an odd spring. The Blue Ridge area, closer to home, has had a late spring bloom. But the Appalachian Trail had put on its best floral finery.

Roughly two-thirds of a mile up the trail we had our first view off to the southeast of the North Carolina Smokies. It’s a majestic sight, but unfortunately cast in a grey pall from the overcast and valley haze.

The trail winds from the NC side to the Tenn. side of the ridge. For a half mile past the NC overlook, the trail drops sharply on your left. You don’t want to stumble and fall as it would be quite awhile before you stop. The next vista is on the Tennessee side as you get a first look at Mt. Leconte and its Myrtle Point overlook.

At 1.7 miles into the hike you will reach the junction with Sweat Heifer Trail and its connection to Kephart Prong, one of the major drainage channels on the NC side of the ridge. Horace Kephart was one of the local leaders most instrumental in obtaining national park status for the Smoky Mountains area. Legend has it Horace gave Charlies Bunion its name.

The story is told that Horace and his friend Charlie Connor had heard about a landslide along the ridge separating the two states. While exploring the area, they happened upon a large rock outcropping with magnificent views of the surrounding landscape. In order to rest his weary feet, Charlie took off his boots and socks to reveal a humongous bunion that Horace thought resembled the unusual granite they were sitting on. The rest, as they say, is history. Or perhaps myth.

By now, you’re reaching the highest part of the trail. Most of the next two miles is over 5,800 feet elevation with occasional views on either side of the ridge. You will really feel like you’re on the backbone of the Appalachians. At 2.7 miles you will come to another trail junction, this time with The Boulevard Trail. We kept this marker in mind because it is also the way to “The Jumpoff,” a feature we wanted to check out on the way back.

Soon after, the trail reaches the summit of Mt. Ambler above 6,100 ft. in a dark old growth spruce-fir forest. Apparently the wind howls through here judging by the amount of blow down beside the trail. The trail itself is somewhat of a trough through this cimmerian forest, rocky and claustrophobic.

When the trail begins to descend the other side of Mt. Ambler, start looking on your right for the Icewater Springs Shelter, one of the many refuges strategically placed along the Appalachian Trail to make it tolerable for the thru-hikers. This shelter has a glorious view of sunrise over the NC Smokies to entice the weary ones to continue their long journey.

Just past the shelter, you’ll see Icewater Springs itself draining right into the trail, a great place for water resupply. Make sure to filter it first.

The last mile to Charlies Bunion descends about 500 feet along a sometimes rocky, flower-laden footpath. You will begin to see the outcropping on your left in the distance, as well as increasingly scenic views of the Tennessee Smokies. We were treated to marvelously gnarly, wind-swept trees overhanging the trail, and a literal carpet of violets… white, purple and blue.

Look for the Charlies Bunion spur trail off the main AT on your left. Then it’s less than a hundred yards to the outcropping. The rocks themselves are a rainbow of earth tones, seemingly changing color at each jagged edge. It’s about a 6-8 feet scramble to the top. Be careful as the rock surface has been worn smooth by the thousands that have come before. If you mis-step, it’s a long way down.

To your left (southwest) is the next ridge over that includes The Jumpoff, and Mt. Kephart, named for Horace. Because of the cloud cover and haze, we couldn’t see as far as a clear day, but we could make out the shores of Douglas Lake to the north near Sevierville. To the right, the spur trail continues down to another overlook with a great view of the east side of Charlies Bunion. That’s the photo at the top of this post. Click for a larger version.

Be sure to take that trail, otherwise you’ll miss the mineral encrusted granite wall along the right, and the hillside of lush vegetation that lies below the rocky outcropping on your left. Just before the spur rejoins the AT, turn around for the magnificent view of Charlies Bunion and the sharp spines of the Smokies beyond. We picked this spot to enjoy our lunch.

Apparently there were quite a few other hikers who left Newfound Gap within 15 minutes of us, because very shortly after we arrived, Charlies Bunion was like Grand Central Station. There isn’t a whole lot of room to maneuver there, so we decided to give the others their turn and move on to our next destination… The Jumpoff.

The trail map I have seems to indicate the Jumpoff Trail has both northern and southern connections to the AT. As we returned along the route past Icewater Springs Shelter though, we never found it. So instead, we turned right on the Boulevard Trail when we reached it, took a right turn 100 yards later, and began the steepest part of our hike.

Right off the bat, the Jumpoff Trail climbs steeply through a maze of moss and lichen covered roots and rocks. I don’t normally carry trekking poles, but they sure would have come in handy navigating the long and high steps that really stretched the groin and hamstring muscles.

The Jumpoff Trail finally tops out at about 6,200 feet with a fabulous view of Mt. LeConte through the dead hemlock and fir trees. The trail descends a bit and finally reaches The Jumpoff overlook after about 0.6 mile.

WARNING!!! The vistas from The Jumpoff are fabulous, but this is a very dangerous place. The overlook sits on an extremely narrow ledge with a 300-400 foot drop straight down. The Jumpoff is aptly named. This isn’t a granite cliff edge either. This is eroding soil, so if you step too close to the edge, you simply don’t know if today is the day that piece of earth decides to fall over the abyss. Definitely don’t bring young children to The Jumpoff! WARNING!!!

Having said that, this is a remarkable place. There is a clear view of Charlies Bunion from 500 feet above. We could see the ant-like people as they marched along the spur trail from the AT to the outcrop. Most of the eastern area of the national park, and much to the north is noticeable from The Jumpoff. 6,621′ Mt. Guyot is visible to the northeast, along with the ridge that is the state line and the Appalachian Trail.

After we’d had our fill of pictures, it was time to head back. The Jumpoff Trail was just as difficult to navigate on the way back down. This isn’t an officially maintained Park Service trail, but it will get you there and back if you’re careful.

We retraced our steps to the AT and turned west for a return that is all downhill. Wouldn’t you know it — when we were nearing the end of our hike — the clouds had moved on and the sky was a glorious blue on the Carolina side of the ridge.

As we approached Newfound Gap even more wildflowers were blooming from the sunshine and I happened to think, this is two hikes in a row that I’ve reported on that followed a state line for its length.

To summarize, this is a beautiful stretch of the Appalachian Trail with deep forest and scenic vistas that isn’t especially difficult. You’ll do about an 8.3 mile round trip to Charlies Bunion, and tack on another 1.2 miles if you decide to check out The Jumpoff as well. Watch your step around the sheer edges for safety, and come prepared for potentially quick changing weather since you are on a high, razor-like ridge. I thoroughly enjoyed this hike and would like to visit again during the autumn leaf season.

On the way back down Newfound Gap Road, my brother and I did stop to take in the landslide repair area and take a few pictures. See the last one below.

Updated June 29, 2015: Took another great hike to The Jumpoff and Charlies Bunion. Even continued down the Appalachian Trail beyond the Bunion to Dry Sluice Gap before turning around. This is fast becoming one of my favorite adventures in the Smokies. I’m sure I will be back to try some of the other seasons. Enjoy these new photos.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.