Bryson City, NC is located on the far southern boundary of Great Smoky Mountains National Park and hosts the Deep Creek and Lakeview regions of the park. Noland Creek Trail runs north/south off Lakeview Drive between Fontana Lake and the Noland Divide high above in the mountains. The trailhead is one mile north of the lake and heads in both directions. On this day Ken and I headed north up into the drainage. The Noland Creek valley contains a beautiful hardwood and pine forest and at one time was home to several settler families. If you look closely along the way perhaps you will notice stone remains from some of those settlements. This is a delightful stroll through the Smokies woodland where the creek is your constant companion. We visited Noland Creek on Thursday, January 14, 2016 from 10:00AM to 3:00PM. Our plan was to take Noland Creek Trail as far as backcountry campsite 63, then return.

Before hitting the trail, Ken and I stopped for a few photos of Fontana Lake from Lakeview Drive, then drove the Road to Nowhere to its termination at the tunnel that passes through to Lake Shore. We then backtracked to the Noland Creek Trail.

From the trailhead on Lakeview Drive, the trail heads down a few hundred yards to creek level. At the bottom you can choose to go left a mile to Fontana Lake, or turn right as we did to hike up the Noland Creek drainage. Back in September of 2014 I took the trail to the lake when I was in Bryson City to visit the Deep Creek area of the national park with my friend Dave. When we reached the end of Noland Creek where it feeds Fontana Lake we found both beauty and ugliness.

There is a splendid cascade there, dropping 5-6 feet off a shelf of rock. However, looking toward the lake I was taken aback by all the backwash. The banks of the creek are littered with driftwood and logs, and yes, rubbish. It looks like a trash dump; quite appalling actually, especially for a national park. I’m told the boaters on Fontana Lake simply dump their trash overboard, and it ends up in these backwash channels. So sad.

Not to worry today though, as we were heading north. We passed under the highway bridge, then over the footbridge for our first glimpse of Noland Creek. This is a wide one as creeks go, as big as some rivers I’ve seen in the region. What is wide too, is the trail. It’s really more of a road, probably used for logging at one time, and also to access the settlements that used to be in this valley. It’s well maintained too… very firm with almost no mud.

It was cold in the hollow, at least 7-8 degrees less than up on Lakeview Drive, as evidenced by the icicles everywhere. Even the rhododendron leaves were drooping. Noland Creek is within earshot the entire length of this hike, and most of the time it is close enough to dip your toes as well. Backcountry campsite 65 is 1.3 miles from the trailhead. A spur trail crosses a little knoll then drops to the site with three picnic tables and Bearpen Branch nearby. We had noticed a horse trailer unloading while we were gearing up at the trailhead, and soon after we passed the campsite, they passed us.

Noland Creek Trail is ideal for equestrian recreation. It is wide and firm, with plenty of room for side-by-side riding. The fellows in this shot stopped to chat with us for a few minutes and were very friendly. They were loving the beautiful day in the Smokies every bit as much as we were.

Nearly two miles up the trail is a grove of beautiful, tall white pine followed almost immediately by another grove of cove hardwoods including beech, holly and eastern hemlock that are just as tall. Surprisingly, also tall is the rhododendron. These plants have been here for decades, towering twice as high as the guys perched on their horses.

When the horsemen were out of sight, we heard faint sounds of a motor approaching from behind. Within a few minutes, sure enough, here came a pickup truck towing a wood chipper. The National Park Service was out for the day clearing storm debris from the roadside.

We crossed another footbridge, then soon after reached the remnants of one of the old settlements. There are signs of the people who once inhabited this hidden valley. We found a chimney pile near a stone foundation. It’s all covered with bright green moss these days, but the stones represent 19th century living in the Smoky Mountains… fertile land, access to water, just a day from town.

As we meandered on, there were two more bridges across Noland Creek, all suitable for foot, horse, and single-lane vehicle traffic. We were entering Salola Valley now. At one time it even had its own post office. Keep your eyes peeled for more artifacts including the remnants of a power station on the left. A water wheel rested on a foundation that captured the swift water flowing down Noland Creek and provided power to those who lived here in the early 20th century.

We crossed one last bridge, then reached backcountry campsite 64, a trail junction of sorts. We were now 4.1 miles from the trailhead. The horsemen who had passed us earlier were here, as were the pickup truck we had seen, and another Park Service pickup with a different work crew. This place was jumpin’. We joined in the fun, finding a picnic table for ourselves to enjoy lunch. There is a connector trail here that goes to meet the Forney Ridge Trail and climb to Clingmans Dome. Also, Noland Creek Trail continues northward.

After resting at the campsite, we decided to continue farther north to the next campsite about another mile and a half on. We found the workers from the other pickup. They were enhancing the footlog over Noland Creek just north of campsite 64, adding additional railings and tightening all the bolts and screws. I am always amazed at the Smokies footlogs. Usually made of tulip poplar they will last for decades and are part of what gives the national park its charm.

After navigating the footlog at campsite 64, we were now on the east side of Noland Creek. The road isn’t in quite as good shape here as it would be difficult to get grading equipment across that footlog.

The trail gets steeper over the next mile, but still not overly so. It is never strenuous hiking on this trail. In fact, I never found myself breathing hard. Despite being after noon, now the ground was still frozen, which was good for us as it would have probably been muddy otherwise. About half way to backcountry campsite 63 we crossed another footlog, the one pictured at the top of this post.

As we got nearer the campsite we smelled smoke, not a good thing in a dense hardwood forest. Sure enough, when we arrived at the campsite there were logs still smoldering in the fire pit and no one to be seen. We each thought of what we had in our packs to haul water the 25 feet from Noland Creek to extinguish the fire. I had a small bottle and Ken had a half-gallon sized plastic bag. Perfect. Within 10 minutes there was no more smoke. Yay!

While I took pictures of the creek, Ken went to explore the forest in the vicinity of campsite 63, also known as Jerry Flats. When he returned, he reported having seen three whitetail deer frolicking in the woods, totally unaware of his presence. I was disappointed to have missed it, but still relished his tale as we turned to walk back the way we had come. You can continue northward on Noland Creek for several more miles, eventually meeting the Noland Divide Trail that will take you all the way to Clingmans Dome Road. But we had had enough.

It’s 5.5 long miles back to the trailhead from campsite 63. I’m not afraid to tell you my feet started getting pretty tired about half way back. The bridge workers were just about to finish up when we got back to there, and apparently the horsemen had turned around because we never saw them again. A mile down the road, the workers with the wood chipper had now sprung into action tossing branches and other debris into the jowls of the machine creating one helluva racket. But the trail looked clean.

We encountered one other vehicle on our return trip down Noland Creek, a small road grader. The Park Service had really been out in full force on this sunny, delightful winter day. I’m happy to see that. I suppose there is new money for maintenance in the budget.

To summarize, there really is no destination for Noland Creek Trail. It’s one of those hikes where you just walk along enjoying Nature, taking in the scenery, watching for wildlife, smelling the aromas, listening to the rushing of the mountain stream. It’s a four season hike, and one that would be easy for the entire family. Simply go as far as you want, then turn around. Access is convenient as it’s just a few short miles outside of Bryson City. Even the Road to Nowhere that you travel to get to the trailhead is quite scenic. This is also an excellent trail for those who enjoy horseback riding.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

The Deep Creek area in the Smokies, just north of Bryson City, NC, is a water wonderland. Creeks and branches descend through every nook down the surrounding mountains. The documentarian Ken Burns describes Deep Creek as one of his favorite places to visit in the national park. Three picturesque waterfalls are in close proximity to the campground, and hiking trails abound. The area is also home to Lakeview Drive, aka the infamous “Road to Nowhere,” and the numerous trails that start there. You can circle Fontana Lake, or follow the drainages that feed it. We enjoyed Deep Creek Trail on Wednesday, September 10, 2014 beginning at 10:30AM and ending about 12:00PM. Our plan was to find and photograph the three waterfalls in the area, then explore the Road to Nowhere, scouting out future hiking opportunities.

The Deep Creek Campground is about three miles north of Bryson City, NC on Deep Creek Road. Hiker parking is at the north end of the campground on the left. The Juney Whank trailhead and the Deep Creek trailhead are right there at the parking lot. Convenient. We chose to tackle Juney Whank Falls first simply to get the short climb out of the way while it was still cool. The trailhead is on the left at the north end of the parking.

It’s 0.8 mile roundtrip to Juney Whank Falls and about 180 feet of climbing. The falls is an 80 foot cascade with a footbridge crossing about half way up. From the bridge you look up for the top half of the falls and down for the bottom. It seems a little whanky, shall we say, to put the bridge right in the middle rather than at the bottom. Oh well, that’s my photographer’s brain working. The good news is the bridge puts you close enough to touch the water.

You can either return the way you came, back to the parking for the Deep Creek trailhead, or you can continue on the Juney Whank Trail. It eventually comes out on the Deep Creek Trail just north of the trailhead. Deep Creek Trail itself is an old forest road, so it is plenty wide and is shared with horses.

The first highlight along Deep Creek Trail about a quarter mile in is Tom Branch Falls. Also an 80-footer this one is on the hillside across Deep Creek, at the point where Tom Branch plunges into the creek. The waterfall is broken into several separate shelves, creating a wealth of splashy cascades. Interestingly, when the water flow is low like it was on this day, it switches from side to side as it crosses the ledges. The Park Service has placed several benches for anyone to just sit and enjoy the view. Tom Branch Falls is especially lovely when the surrounding forest is alive with color in Autumn.

As you continue along Deep Creek Trail you’ll cross on scenic foot bridges enabling the opportunity to peer up and down stream. During late summer, early fall this trail is lined with hearts-a-poppin’-with-love wildflowers, sometimes known as strawberry bush. It’s about a half mile of easy, level strolling alongside the creek to the junction with Indian Creek Trail. Be sure to take a look here at the narrow slot that Indian Creek shoots through on its way to join Deep Creek.

Just a couple hundred feet up Indian Creek Trail is Indian Creek Falls, a 45-foot split waterfall that slides into a wide pool. There is a spur trail off the left of the main trail. I thought this one was the most picturesque of the three major falls in the area. There are two good viewing points and photo spots, one on the way down the spur, and the other at the bottom, alongside Indian Creek.

If you’re here for hiking, the Indian Creek Trail continues onward in a loop until it eventually comes back to Deep Creek after a couple miles. There is about a 350 foot climb over Sunkota Ridge through a rhododendron and laurel forest that is alive with color in late spring. On the Deep Creek side of the ridge the trail is a festive wildflower display throughout spring, including such beauties as trillium, violets and dogwood.

But we were on a different mission today and skipped the loop hike. Primarily interested in the waterfalls, we turned around after having seen each of the three. Now we wanted to go check out the infamous “Road to Nowhere” and scout out the trails found there for future adventures. Look for Lakeview Drive on your way back toward Bryson City.

In the 1930s and 1940s, Swain County gave up the majority of its private land to the Federal government for the creation of Fontana Lake and Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Hundreds of people were forced to leave the small Smoky Mountain communities that had been their homes for generations. With the creation of the Park, their homes were gone, and so was the road to those communities. Old Highway 288 was buried beneath the deep waters of Fontana Lake.

The Federal government promised to replace Highway 288 with a new road. Lakeview Drive was to have stretched along the north shore of Fontana Lake, from Bryson City to Fontana, 30 miles to the west. And, of special importance to those displaced residents, it was to have provided access to the old family cemeteries where generations of ancestors remained behind.

But Lakeview Drive fell victim to an environmental issue and construction was stopped, with the road ending at a tunnel about six miles into the Park. The environmental issue was eventually resolved, but the roadwork was never resumed, and Swain County’s citizens gave the unfinished Lakeview Drive its popular, albeit unofficial name “The Road To Nowhere.” — Cite.

There are several pullouts along Lakeview Drive with wide vistas of the fingers of Fontana Lake and the Great Smoky Mountains that surround the region. Several creeks and streams plummet through the dense forest to the lake, and there are hiking trails that follow these drainages.

At the end of Lakeview Drive, as promised, is the tunnel. It’s probably 200 yards long, a straight shot, and we happened to arrive just as a half dozen horses were clip-clopping through. The echoes in the tunnel confused some horses who became a touch skittish. Once they popped back out into the light at the other end, all was well. We sat on the guardrail beside the road, enjoying a sandwich, and watched the parade as it passed by.

There are several hiking and equestrian trails on the far side of the tunnel, including the Goldmine Loop Trail, and the Lakeshore Trail that is a multi-day excursion.

On our way back on Lakeview Drive, we stopped at the Noland Creek trailhead for the mile hike to Fontana Lake. At first, the trail dropped about a hundred feet to the creek level, then criss-crossed the stream at least a half dozen times on sturdy wooden foot bridges. Noland Creek is quite scenic, surrounded by rhododendron and mixed hardwoods that hang out above the stream.

My companion for the day told me that if you head the opposite direction, away from Fontana Lake, it is an excellent hike that follows Noland Creek for miles. It passes through Solala Valley, past several backcountry campsites, and eventually ends up at Upper Sassafrass Gap where it meets the Noland Divide Trail. Noland Creek Trail is also part of the acclaimed Benton MacKaye Trail that traverses the breadth of the Smokies. This one will definitely be a plan for another day.

When we reached the end of Noland Creek where it feeds Fontana Lake we found both beauty and ugliness. There is a splendid cascade there, dropping 5-6 feet off a shelf of rock. However, looking toward the lake I was taken aback by all the backwash. The banks of the creek are littered with driftwood and logs, and yes, rubbish. It looks like a trash dump; quite appalling actually, especially for a national park. I’m told the boaters on Fontana Lake simply dump their trash overboard, and it ends up in these backwash channels. So sad.

We finished the day at a local Bryson City Mexican eatery, then drove the two hours back home.

To summarize, this was my first trip to the Bryson City region of the Smokies park. As with most places you go in late summer, it was not the best time. I enjoyed the Deep Creek waterfalls, but I was able to envision the scenery as being considerably more attractive in both spring and fall. Even in winter, with a slight snow cover, the waterfalls would be quite lovely. Horace Kephart’s granddaughter tells me he used Deep Creek as the setting for his novel “Smoky Mountain Magic.” Deep Creek was one of Kephart’s favorite places in the Smokies. Our exploration of Lakeview Drive was useful, as I learned of more trails to enjoy in the future. Noland Creek, in particular, is now on my radar.

Update February 24, 2017

Deep Creek is not entirely different in winter, just no leaves on the trees. There is still water everywhere. The trails are just as popular as ever. And on a 70° day in late February it seemed like spring. See for yourself.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.