Hiking among the giants of the East. That’s what you’re doing when you take the Blue Ridge Parkway to Mt. Mitchell State Park for this trek on the Mountains to Sea Trail in the Black Mountains. With fabulous views of the Blacks and the Great Craggy Range, and closeup experiences with gnarly old growth fir and spruce krummholz, this stretch of the MtS is some of the best of the North Carolina high country. The trail climbs through ancient forest, past moss-covered granite outcrops, to the crest of the ridge and Blackstock Knob summit. From here you can almost reach out and touch Mt. Mitchell, the tallest peak in the East. Descend to Balsam Gap, then return on perhaps the most scenic stretch along the entire length of the Parkway. We thoroughly enjoyed this hike on Wednesday, July 30, 2014 beginning at 11:00AM and ending about 5:30PM. Our plan was to take the Mountains to Sea Trail from Mt. Mitchell State Park across Blackstock Knob and down to Balsam Gap, then return along the Blue Ridge Parkway.

This majestic hike could easily be accomplished as a shuttle, or two-car excursion as there is convenient parking at each end of the trail. The big problem, though, is the extreme remote nature of Mt. Mitchell State Park. It is only accessible via the Blue Ridge Parkway, and it’s at least an hour drive from Asheville, or any other town nearby. So using two cars would involve quite a bit of fuel. You decide. It’s 5.9 miles one way, or 11.3 miles as a loop.

We chose to begin the hike from the Mt. Mitchell end as climbing to the ridge crest is more gradual. Once seeing the descent at the Balsam Gap end, I think we made the correct decision. The trailhead for the Mountains to Sea Trail is about a half mile up Hwy 128 into Mt. Mitchell State Park. Look closely to your left as you approach, because it isn’t especially easy to notice. There is a small gravel pullout on the right side of the road with enough room for three tightly bunched vehicles.

The trail starts out heading due south and uphill for a quarter mile, then levels out and makes a hard turn northwestward. We noticed immediately that someone had been through very recently with a scythe or weed eater, making the trail extremely easy to navigate. It was also apparent that a lot of time and love had been put into appropriate rock placement and trail tread leveling to ease the ascent.

On our way up the Parkway from Asheville in the morning, when we reached the high country past Craggy Gardens, the roadway was lined with an assortment of wildflowers that would make the NC Arboretum proud. Our first wildflower on the trail was a stunning Turk’s Cap. Usually orange in color, this one was nearly red and stood almost shoulder height. Obviously, a mature plant. Our wildflower experience was just beginning.

At roughly a half mile into the hike, the trail pops out of the forest and opens up the entire expanse of the Asheville Watershed. To the south are Greybeard Mountain and Brushy Knob. To their west the Burnett Reservoir, and further west the twin peaks of the Great Craggy Mountains: Craggy Dome and Craggy Pinnacle. Climbing a little farther up the face of Potato Knob, we reached a parapet-like outcropping that showed us the winding pathway taken by the Blue Ridge Parkway to reach those landmarks.

While sitting on the outcropping enjoying the grand view and a snack, we could now hear the sound of a motorized weed eater not far above us. Darn! That meant the nicely mown path would be ending soon. Sure enough, 10 minutes later we encountered the intrepid (and tired) worker and thanked him profusely for his efforts. We chatted with Mike Williams of the Carolina Mountain Club for awhile and learned that he is frequently up here in the Blacks doing much appreciated trail maintenance.

As coincidence would have it, we also met the only other hiker we would see on this day, coming the other direction. Thinking our way forward would now be surrounded by waist high grass and weeds, we said our farewell to Mike and pushed onward.

Soon afterward, we re-entered the forest, and were rewarded with short ground cover alongside the trail. And it remained that way throughout. Our timing had been perfect. The worst of the tall grass had already been taken care of by Mike.

We also began climbing again, now rather steeply, up the south face of Potato Knob toward the ridge crest on the knob’s west flank. Rather large outcroppings were scattered about, covered in moss and lichens, a result of the hundreds of inches of rainfall that occur in this region each year. Grace, my companion’s black & tan hound, was thoroughly enjoying herself. The scents were doggie nirvana.

We began noticing teeny, tiny white growths poking just a few inches out of the ground. Seemingly part floral and part fungus, Dave informed me these are known as indian pipe. They grow where the soil is very moist, push their way through fallen evergreen needles and lichens, and stay together in clusters. There were literally hundreds over the next mile of trail. It seems every time I foray into the wilderness I learn about something new, and on this day it was indian pipe. Dave said he had never seen so many in one area before.

When you reach the ridge crest, the trail levels out, then roller coasters for a mile or more. You’re above 6,000 feet now and will likely notice it in your breathing. The forest is amazing here. You’re surrounded by spruce and fir krummholz, and if you look closely, amid the moss and lichens you will find dozens of little micro gardens with various hues of mushrooms and other fungus springing from the moist rotting wood. We also found the first turtleheads of summer and pockets of chickweed hugging the stone outcrops.

Upon reaching the low point along the ridge at Rainbow Gap, we began looking for a meadow off to the north, a tip Mike had given us. He said there is a Cessna crash site less than a hundred yards off the trail. Sure enough, we found the fern and St. John’s Wort adorned meadow, and then the wreckage at the southeast corner. The cockpit and left wing were still somewhat intact, but all the instruments and the rest were long gone. It was obvious the pilot had missed the gap by mere feet.

Returning to the trail, we were now looking for a place to have lunch. The next stretch of trail up Blackstock Knob is the hardest of the hike. It’s about 325 feet of elevation gain from Rainbow Gap to the summit, all steep. By the time we found a nice spot to eat, we were definitely needing the rest, and the nourishment. The moss on the summit is incredible. I found one fallen log that I counted five different species of moss on, and it was more than an inch thick.

Continuing westward, occasionally the forest would open to the north for just a faint peek at the Black Mountains Range nearby. Suddenly the peeking became a full-blown view when we reached what I would call a photographer’s overlook. The trail maintenance crew had carved out a small pathway through the brush right to the precipice of the ridge. The full length of the Blacks was directly in front of us, with the Big Tom Preserve down below. The scene is sensational, and is the photo at the top of this post. Normally I’m not a fan of trail crews destroying living plants, but in this case I think the view was well done.

We were really beginning to wonder when this trail would start heading down. The summit of Blackstock Knob is 6,330′ and the elevation at Balsam Gap is 5,320′. So we had a thousand feet of drop ahead with not much trail left. Sure enough, the descent began in earnest.

A seemingly endless series of switchbacks helped make it easier on the knees and ankles, but this is serious downhill. Dave mentioned that on a previous visit to this trail he had come up from Balsam Gap. Worn out when he reached Blackstock Knob, he decided to turn around. I can see why. I’m glad we started at the other end.

Finally after about 20 minutes of continuous down, down, down we popped out on the Blue Ridge Parkway at Balsam Gap. It had taken us four hours to get here from the other end. Granted we stopped for lots of pictures and such, but four more hours back didn’t seem like a good idea. Dave suggested we walk back on the Parkway to make this a loop, and he didn’t hear any complaints from me.

By the way, there is another trailhead at the Balsam Gap pullout besides the Mountains to Sea. It is called the Big Butt Trail. It follows Brush Fence Ridge to Point Misery and beyond and supposedly has dazzling views of the Black Mountains from across the valley that is the Big Tom Preserve. Just another hike for another day. It is so wonderful to live in Western North Carolina.

Well, we still had nearly five miles back on the Parkway, and then that last half mile up Hwy 128 in the state park back to the car. Might as well get started. Walking on the road is certainly easier, and quicker, than hiking over roots and rocks in the forest, but there’s still quite a bit of stamina-draining uphill. What made it so much easier to endure was all the wildflowers.

Along the way, I saw daisies, and coneflowers, and black-eyed susans; bee balm, and geraniums, and turk’s cap. I even saw the first goldenrod of the season. Yep, in the high country it pops out even in late July. Rounding one curve in mile 357, we could see the outcrop high above where we had stopped earlier for a snack.

The Parkway is very impressive here. The work that was accomplished by the builders more than 70 years ago is truly amazing. I think this 10-mile stretch from Craggy Gardens to Mt. Mitchell is some of the most beautiful along the full 469-mile length. There wasn’t much gas left in my tank for that final trudge up Hwy 128, but six and a half hours after starting, we finished.

Best Hike Let’s summarize. You should definitely do this hike. The high country forest is luscious, and the mountain vistas on both sides of the ridge are stunning. Even if you don’t go all the way to Balsam Gap and back, consider trying at least part of this section of the Mountains to Sea Trail for a fine example of what WNC hiking is all about. I would call this one a Best Hike.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Montreat is a small community just north of Black Mountain, NC with a world renowned conference center, a college, and best for us, 20 miles of hiking trails that rival those in nearby Pisgah National Forest for quality and scenery. In particular, the Greybeard Trail is an exceptional workout that climbs more than 2300 feet to the summit of Greybeard Mountain on the Blue Ridge Escarpment where there are stunning views of Mt. Mitchell and its other 6000′ brethren. The trails are contained within private conservation land known as Boggs Memorial Wilderness and hiking is open to the public. This hike occurred on Thursday, September 29, 2011 from 9:45am to about 3:45pm. The plan was to take the Greybeard Trail from Montreat to the summit of Greybeard Mountain with stops at Greybeard Falls and Walker’s Knob along the way. We would then make a loop hike by descending along the West Ridge Trail to the junction with Big Piney Ridge Trail and a return to Montreat.

View Greybeard, West Ridge, and Big Piney Ridge Trails, Montreat in a larger map

The trail system in Montreat is on private land owned by the Montreat Conference Center and maintained by the Montreat Cottagers, the Mountain Retreat Association, and the Montreat Landcare Committee. Montreat has 13 hiking trails totaling more than 20 miles. Of Montreat’s 4,000 acres, 2,500 acres are dedicated to wilderness and are entered in the North Carolina Registry of Natural Heritage Areas. It goes without saying that we should all leave this beautiful, pristine wilderness as we found it. We are invited guests on this land, and should behave as such, so the public will always be welcome. Be sure to follow the Montreat trail system rules and regulations.

The blue blazed Greybeard Trail starts off nice right off the bat with a beautiful wooden bridge over Slaty Branch. On this day in late September there was a covering of yellow leaves on the bridge and foot path that led the way into the hardwood forest. It’s a long climb up Greybeard Mountain and the up began right away, but it was gradual and not immediately tiring. The trail follows and crosses Flat Creek several times through a very quiet forest with lots of songbirds and squirrels. The forest floor is covered with fern and galax, and there are plentiful rhododendron and laurel thickets throughout. There are signs around warning of black bears, but we ran into another hiker who was coming down who said he had never seen a bear in four years of hiking these trails. About a mile up the trail there is a tastefully done bronze plaque in a rock dedicated to Lou and Wade Boggs, designating this area as the Boggs Memorial Wilderness.

1.5 miles into the climb we reached a plateau where the trail entered a series of long, relatively flat switchbacks. This is Pot Cove Gap. Here was our first opportunity to see a view of the surrounding Blue Ridge. There is a break in the trees that enables a long distance view to the east of the Iron Mountain Ridge. The switchbacks go on for nearly a mile, but it was a nice break from the earlier climbing, and from the steeper climbing that laid ahead. At the last switchback turn is a very short spur trail to Greybeard Falls, a small slide-type waterfall that didn’t have much water on this autumn day.

Not much further up is another spur trail, this one perhaps 300 yards, that goes to the old Trestle Road and Old Mount Mitchell Toll Road. The only trestle we saw was partially buried in Flat Creek. There isn’t much to see, and you may want to skip this unless you are a mountain biker. Trestle Road is a good bike trail and biking is not allowed on Greybeard Trail.

Greybeard Trail begins climbing again and reaches Walker’s Knob Shelter, an excellent overnight camp spot that was built in 1984. There is room for large groups in the shelter, and there is a large fire ring with benches, and even a grill. Be sure to make reservations back in Montreat at the Nature Center. The Walker’s Knob spur trail is 0.2 mile to one of the best views on the hike. From Walker’s Knob we could see our eventual destination, Greybeard Mountain. We could also see the downward side of the loop, the West Ridge Trail, a long roller coaster descent. To the south is the town of Black Mountain, and to the east the beautiful and unforgettable Blue Ridge. No matter how many times I see ridge after ridge lined up as far as the eye can see, I still love the compelling beauty of these mountains. It’s why I continue to make my home here. There was a nice sprinkling of red, orange and yellow within the forest, though peak leaf peeping is still a couple weeks away. There is a rock outcropping on Walker’s Knob and that’s where we had our lunch. We reached this spot in two hours-15 minutes.

Back to the shelter, and then another 1.25 miles all uphill to the false summit of Greybeard Mountain. Here was a wooden fence built like a cattle corral, and the junction of three trails. The reason for the bizarre fencing is the Asheville Watershed. The watershed is to the west and runs into the North Fork Reservoir. They really don’t want you hiking or otherwise messing around in the watershed, so just stay on the trails and you’ll be good. To the left, or southwest, is the West Ridge Trail (our eventual descent path), and to the right (north) is the spur trail to the summit of Greybeard Mountain.

It’s only 0.3 mile to the summit and the first two-tenths is flat, but the last tenth mile climbs another 200 feet. After all the climbing we had already done, this was a bit of a bummer, but it was definitely worth it. The summit of Greybeard, at 5408 feet, offered our first look to the north. There before us was the massive expanse of Mount Mitchell, the tallest mountain east of the Mississippi at over 6600 feet. That’s the photo at the top of this post. We could see the state park that surrounds the mountain as well as the other 6000′ peaks in the area like Blackstock Knob, Potato Knob, Mt. Gibbes, and Clingmans Peak with its three radio towers. To the east is another beautiful view of the Blue Ridge Escarpment.

By now it was 1:30 in the afternoon and there was a warning sign back at the false summit that said not to begin the West Ridge Trail late in the day. It is very rugged country, rocky, with lots of roller coaster ups and downs across fins and outcroppings. We would later learn that sign is excellent advice. You would definitely not want to be on this trail, or the Big Piney Ridge Trail, after dark. Meanwhile, the grey blazed West Ridge Trail is very beautiful and loads of fun. Through the forest of oak and maple, chestnuts and hickory, and abundant mountain ash we could see the Craggy Mountains on the west side of the trail, and the ridge we climbed on the east. The ridge the trail follows is known as Seven Sisters Ridge, forms the Buncombe/McDowell county line, and is part of the Black Mountain Range. We passed one other hiker and her dog, a student at Montreat College. No, not her dog silly.

About half way down, the trail goes across a large outcrop known as Rattlesnake Rock. My companion and I, thinking like Meanderthals, didn’t want to know how it got its name, but be assured we kept one eye toward the ground and our ears peeled while we stopped to take in the stunning sights. The view here is similar to that on Walker’s Knob, just several hundred feet lower. It was about this point we began noticing downed barbed wire along the trail for the next half mile or so. This is no doubt left from fences that were there to protect the watershed. Just beware the barbed wire is there. It is a tripping hazard.

After 2.5 miles the West Ridge Trail reaches a junction with Big Piney Ridge Trail, the way back to the beginning. Here the trail blaze changes to orange. Not far down Big Piney is a nice view back up at Greybeard Mountain, and down to Montreat. It was interesting to see how far we had come down, and how much farther down we still had to go. What sticks out most with me is steep, steep, steep. Between our soreness and whining, my friend and I were debating whether we would rather go down this stretch, or climb up; in other words, do the loop the opposite direction. Neither of us are spring chickens, and the miles were taking their toll. He argued he would rather go up, because the really steep downhill was very hard on his knees. My thinking concluded we were going the right direction — trying to go up this slope would burn the lungs. We were both right, and wrong, but before we knew it we were back to Greybeard Trail Rd.

It’s about a quarter mile up the road to the trailhead parking area. On the other side of the street from the parking is the Walk C. Jones III Wildlife Sanctuary. There is a trail that goes into the sanctuary and around the Montreat Reservoir. The reservoir, really more like a pond, was perfectly still and reflecting the surrounding trees and sky. There were yellow leaves floating on the surface, making for a tranquil and relaxing setting after six hours of hiking. On the far side of the reservoir is a large gazebo, called the Environmental Education Pavilion. It is big enough to seat probably two dozen folks in a circle for a little kumbaya.

My friend and hiking companion introduced me to Montreat. Even though I have lived in western North Carolina for six years, it had escaped my radar. He knew nothing about it either, only what he had read in Joe Miller’s 100 Classic Hikes in North Carolina. I’m glad he found it, and thanks to Joe Miller. The Greybeard Trail is an excellent hike that gave us a good workout, enjoyable creeks and forest, and beautiful scenic vistas. Thanks to the people of Montreat who willingly share this beauty with us, and with you.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.