civilian conservation corps – Meanderthals https://internetbrothers.org A Hiking Blog Sun, 19 Jul 2020 14:28:29 +0000 en-US hourly 1 21607891 A youth Civilian Conservation Corps will build a trail of justice and hope https://internetbrothers.org/2020/07/20/a-youth-civilian-conservation-corps-will-build-a-trail-of-justice-and-hope/ https://internetbrothers.org/2020/07/20/a-youth-civilian-conservation-corps-will-build-a-trail-of-justice-and-hope/#respond Mon, 20 Jul 2020 10:23:19 +0000 https://internetbrothers.org/?p=35306

Despite recent upticks in hirings, double-digit unemployment and a slumping U.S. economy have many drawing parallels to the Great Depression, complete with calls for a new Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), part of President Franklin Roosevelt’s New Deal that provided millions of young men with conservation jobs. While there are some similarities between now and then, […]]]>

Despite recent upticks in hirings, double-digit unemployment and a slumping U.S. economy have many drawing parallels to the Great Depression, complete with calls for a new Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), part of President Franklin Roosevelt’s New Deal that provided millions of young men with conservation jobs.

While there are some similarities between now and then, the contrasts are far more glaring. Today, in addition to the prospect of a profound recession, we confront systemic racial injustice, deep societal fault lines and the ongoing risks and uncertainties of the COVID-19 pandemic.

A modernized CCC would replace age-old barriers with bridges to opportunity, unite young people behind a common cause and equalize the playing field for a new and diverse generation of rising leaders.

Close to 4 million college graduates have entered the most daunting job market in decades, where unemployment among 20-24 year-olds stands at nearly 20 percent. For African Americans, overall joblessness in June topped 15 percent and Hispanics were right behind at nearly 15 percent.

Beyond spurring employment, however, we must ensure that new corps members’ assignments are strategic and impactful. The original CCC planted more than 3 billion trees and built trails and shelters in over 800 parks. Much of their work still stands and benefits recreational users today.

Read full story…

 

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Gabes Mountain Trail to Hen Wallow Falls, Great Smoky Mountains National Park https://internetbrothers.org/2018/08/15/gabes-mountain-trail-to-hen-wallow-falls-great-smoky-mountains-national-park/ https://internetbrothers.org/2018/08/15/gabes-mountain-trail-to-hen-wallow-falls-great-smoky-mountains-national-park/#respond Wed, 15 Aug 2018 20:37:08 +0000 http://internetbrothers.org/?p=30649

he Cosby section of the Smokies park is mostly known for its long, arduous treks to high country destinations like Mt. Cammerer and Inadu Knob. But there is another trail there that is more moderate in difficulty. A good day hike on Gabes Mountain Trail is the 4-mile round trip to Hen Wallow Falls, a […]]]>

The Cosby section of the Smokies park is mostly known for its long, arduous treks to high country destinations like Mt. Cammerer and Inadu Knob. But there is another trail there that is more moderate in difficulty. A good day hike on Gabes Mountain Trail is the 4-mile round trip to Hen Wallow Falls, a 90-foot, multi-tiered cascade. This is cool, dense forest, some of it old growth, that is nourished by creeks reaching like fingers down the slopes of the Great Smoky Mountains. I hiked the Gabes Mountain Trail to Hen Wallow Falls on Monday, August 13, 2018 beginning at 8:45AM and finishing about 12:15PM. My plan was to take the trail to the waterfall, then return.

Total Length: 4.2 miles Hike Duration: 3.5 hours

Hike Rating: Moderate. Steady uphill throughout the hike. Steep at the falls.

Hike Configuration: Up and back Blaze: None needed

Elevation Start: 2,150 feet Elevation Gain: 900 feet

Trail Condition: Fair. Quite rocky at the bottom and very rooty as you gain elevation. The base of Henwallow Falls is pretty dangerous from slippery rocks.

Starting Point: 100 feet north of Cosby Picnic Area.

Trail Traffic: No one on the way up and at the falls, but at least 30 others on the way down. Seemed like a day for groups of six or more.

How to Get There: From the small town of Cosby, TN take Hwy 32 south 1.2 miles to Cosby Park Road and turn right. The national park entry sign is 100 feet up the road and the Cosby Picnic Area is 1.7 miles. You will pass Gabes Mountain Trailhead on your right just 100 feet before the picnic parking. Park there and walk to the trailhead.

 

Map of the Cosby region of GSMNP including Gabes Mountain Trail.


 

First, let me apologize for the static trail map above. I usually post interactive GPS tracks, but when I got finished with this hike, I discovered that my GPS recording had failed. Darn!

I would also like to recommend that you wear high-top or mid-top boots when hiking Gabes Mountain Trail. With all the rocks and exposed roots found on this trail there are a myriad of opportunities for rolling an ankle. The support of hiking boots is important.

Case in point: On my way back down I passed a woman who had rolled her ankle and was quite hobbled. Her family was helping her get back to the trailhead, but I could tell it was painful. I asked if I could help, or could summon help, but they said they would eventually make it. Do you know what she was wearing on her feet? No, not flip flops, but close. She was wearing Chuck Taylor canvas sneakers. No support. Please don’t do this.

If you park at the Cosby Picnic Area, it’s a short 100 feet walk back down Cosby Park Road to the trailhead. The trail itself begins a gradual climb immediately, something it will do almost continuously for the next two miles. You will notice the trail tread is quite rocky here making it easy to stumble.

The trail runs through moist woodlands with nearly every kind of tree that grows in the Smokies. I found it to be quite humid on this mid-August day, after a week or more of consistent rain. The gnats were in abundance, so I rolled on a layer of repellent.

After three tenths of a mile a connector trail to Cosby Campground comes in from the left. There are footlogs over creeks and streams for the next half mile, including one fairly major crossing of picturesque Rock Creek. The trees get increasingly bigger and taller, and the woods darker and darker as you penetrate the heart of the forest.

I saw a wide variety of mushrooms, and the first flowering tops of early goldenrod along the side of the trail. The only blooming flowers I noticed were a few sundrops that found one small spot of direct sunlight beneath the forest canopy. Of more interest to me were the buffalo nuts, sometimes called oil nuts, that were growing on small ground level branches.

 

Buffalo nuts. Don’t be tempted to taste them. They will make you sick.

 

At the halfway point there is a trail sign pointing to the left, to Hen Wallow Falls and to backcountry campsite 34. This isn’t really a trail junction, just notification that there is a sharp left turn.

At times the trail takes on the look of a road, even as if it was laid in gravel. Well, this is because it used to be a road, one that the former residents of this area would use to take them to Hen Wallow Falls. You will notice artifacts of those early settlers deep in the woods. Boundary walls and stone chimneys are scattered throughout, but difficult to see during the green season when the woods are so dense.

The Civilian Conservation Corps built this trail in 1934, and now nearly a century later, it enables us to explore the depths of this forest. It used to be filled with chestnut and hemlock, giants that stood over a hundred feet tall. You can still see the chestnut stumps and logs along the trail, testament to their durability.

Rosebay rhododendron is also quite prevalent here, offering delightful white and pink blooms in early July. From a mile and a half up you begin to notice large boulders strewn throughout the woods, and then a short distance before the turn to the waterfall, there is a massive rock face in two levels on the left. Look closely at the variety of moss and lichen that adorns the wall.

At 2.1 miles, there is another trail sign, this one pointing to a side trail to Hen Wallow Falls. It is a short, but steep, one tenth of a mile. About half way down keep your eye out on the left for a large boulder with seams of quartz running through it. As you round the final bend you hear the telltale sound of rushing water that announces a waterfall is near.

The base of Hen Wallow Falls is dangerous. There is even a warning sign to keep your eye on young children. There is no splash pool here. Instead, the cascade from the 90′ drop plunges onto the broken rock at the bottom. The rocks are very wet, and very slippery. Hence the danger.

Water falls over a very narrow top and widens as it drops over multiple tiers to the rocks below. Moss and lichens grow on the rock, giving everything a green tint. I happened to be fortunate to be there after more than a week of heavy rain, so the water flow was significantly heavier than typical mid-summer.

I stayed for about a half hour, eating my lunch and enjoying the splashing of the cascade. I had it all to myself the entire time. Early bird and all that. That would soon change as nearly three dozen other hikers were an hour behind me.

The climb back up to Gabes Mountain Trail from the falls is the hardest part of this hike. It is fairly steep, but it only lasts a tenth of a mile. The rest of my return trip was uneventful, other than the injured lady in the Chuck Taylors. The rising temperature and the typical summer humidity made for a very sweaty downhill hike.

Summarizing Gabes Mountain Trail to Hen Wallow Falls, this is a moderately difficult climb of two miles through very dense hardwood forest. The reward at the end is worth it. The waterfall is a big one. You can continue out Gabes Mountain Trail several more miles beyond Hen Wallow Falls. There is a campsite out there, and I’m told there are pretty spectacular old growth trees. If you bring young kids with you, please watch them around the waterfall.

 

 

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

 

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Hell Canyon Trail, Black Hills National Forest https://internetbrothers.org/2018/07/01/hell-canyon-trail-black-hills-national-forest/ https://internetbrothers.org/2018/07/01/hell-canyon-trail-black-hills-national-forest/#respond Sun, 01 Jul 2018 15:56:12 +0000 http://internetbrothers.org/?p=29853

think of the Hell Canyon Trail in Black Hills National Forest, South Dakota as two hikes. There’s the stroll through the canyon with lush trees and bushes and a wide assortment of colorful wildflowers. Then, there’s the path along the canyon rim that exposes the devastation of the 2000 Jasper Fire, the largest in Black […]]]>

I think of the Hell Canyon Trail in Black Hills National Forest, South Dakota as two hikes. There’s the stroll through the canyon with lush trees and bushes and a wide assortment of colorful wildflowers. Then, there’s the path along the canyon rim that exposes the devastation of the 2000 Jasper Fire, the largest in Black Hills history. The undergrowth is recovering nicely from the wildfire, but the trees may be gone for a century or more. One can only imagine the beauty that must have once existed here. My brother Dave and I hiked this loop on Sunday, May 27, 2018 beginning at 6:30AM and finishing about 11:15AM. Our plan was to hike the loop counter-clockwise, starting in the canyon and finishing on the rim.

Total Length: 5.3 miles Hike Duration: 4.75 hours

Hike Rating: Moderate. Mostly level, but there is a transition from canyon to rim.

Hike Configuration: Loop Blaze: #32 markers

Elevation Start: 5,286 feet Elevation Gain: 605 feet

Trail Condition: Good. Canyon portion is grassy and well maintained. Rim portion is quite rocky with some edge exposure and lots of downed trees.

Starting Point: Parking area on Hwy 16. Room for about 15 cars.

Trail Traffic: We encountered half a dozen other hikers and one equestrian.

How to Get There: From Custer, SD take Hwy 16 west 13.5 miles. The trailhead is on the right one mile past the entrance to Jewel Cave National Monument.

 

 

 

As we typically do, Dave and I started this hike just past dawn, so we enjoyed seeing the sun rising over the east canyon wall and lighting up the cliffs of the west side with its brightness. Almost immediately there was a patch of wild dwarf iris, a portent of things to come.

It was recommended to us by our new friend at the Custer Econolodge that we start in the canyon, because the grade to the rim at the far end is a lot more gentle. As it turns out, she was exactly right. If you start out climbing the rim, it is pretty darn steep. Waiting until the north end to climb to the rim is definitely the way to go.

The first half mile gives you a good idea of the size of the canyon. The rock cliffs on each side rise a couple hundred feet and dominate the landscape. The canyon is narrower here. One thing that seemed odd to me is there’s no evidence of the creek or river that carved this canyon eons ago.

The next mile the canyon widens, and is surrounded by unburned forest. Mostly ponderosa pine, there is also some birch and aspen to help make things really, really green in late May. Because of the lush ground level vegetation, I suspect this trail may even become a bit overgrown in the summer months… unless there are friendly local volunteers who come out to cut it back.

We passed evidence of old Civilian Conservation Corps camps. They were apparently busy in Hell Canyon back in their day. Look for occasional #32 signs posted on trees as your trail markers. This is Black Hills National Forest trail #32.

After nearly a week of perfect weather in western South Dakota, on this day Dave and I had to confront a pretty powerful wind that was in our face whipping through the canyon. It even got a bit chilly, as we each pulled long sleeves out of our packs. I don’t know if this is common because of the canyon, or if we just happened to hit a windy day.

The farther we progressed into the canyon, the more the wildflowers came to life. What impressed me the most was not necessarily the abundance of flowers, but the wide variety. I bet we saw more than 30 different wildflowers through the canyon, from white and blue violets to an interesting species of columbine, from the dainty shooting stars and star solomon seal to the large clusters of hawthorne blossoms concealing the nasty, nasty spikes on the stems.

 

The hawthorne blossoms hide the very long spikes that grow from the stems of the bush.

 

As you complete the 2nd mile, the canyon narrows again and the pines become taller and larger. We encountered a horse rider coming the other way, our first contact of the day. Just past two miles, the trail makes a hard left turn and begins the ascent to the rim.

I’m going to do something a little different here from my traditional trail reports. Usually, I place the photo gallery at the bottom of the report. Since this loop is really two entirely different hikes, I’m going to post two photo galleries. The first will include pictures from down inside the canyon. Then, after viewing those, come back here and scroll below the gallery of thumbnails to a continuation of the report. Lastly, there will be another gallery from the rim portion of the hike.

 

 

For the next half mile you climb gently through stunning pine forest, with patches of deep purple harebell lining the trail. You turn to a decidedly southerly direction for the return along the bench that is below the tallest of the cliffs.

Then you see it. You pop out of the forest into the bright sunshine and see the immense devastation of the Jasper fire. It’s like a nuclear bomb went off. The trees that weren’t completely consumed in the fire are flattened, laying on the ground. It is now a treeless landscape. The only vegetation is at ground level. You can tell there used to be a lot of trees simply from all the fallen lumber, but it is now a wide open expanse.

The fire started on August 24, 2000 just west of nearby Jewel Cave National Monument. Over the next week it burned a total of 83,508 acres in the southern Black Hills and approximately 90% of the land area of Jewel Cave, including the rim of Hell Canyon. But now, 18 years later, the forest floor, no longer thick with ash, hosts a variety of plants that have rebounded since the fire. It is still ugly, but it is recovering. However, it will take a long, long time for the trees to come back.

Perhaps the most predominant wildflowers found on the slopes of the canyon rim now are the prairie goldenpea and the harebell. It seemed through the week that everywhere we went we found the delightful goldenpea. Their bright yellow clusters always brought a smile. We even wondered if maybe the goldenpea was the state flower of South Dakota because they seem everpresent. (No.)

We began to see other hikers, taking the loop in the opposite direction. Later, as we looked down into the canyon, we could see the same hikers now below, traversing the trail we had been on hours before.

 

We encountered these hikers with their dog up on the rim an hour before.

 

After about a mile, mile and a half on the rim, there is one stretch where the trail is fit tightly at the base of a cliff, with a steep dropoff on the left side. The danger isn’t really too bad, but if you are prone to vertigo, you certainly wouldn’t want to lose your balance here. Just warning… there is exposure.

Another warning. On a bright sunny day you definitely want sunscreen and a hat when hiking the rim. There is no shade. Also, hold on to your hat because of that wind I mentioned before.

Perhaps a mile from the end, the trail reaches undulating, rolling hills. So there is a bit of up and down, but nothing particularly strenuous. Soon after you reach the point where the rim begins to drop off the edge. You have views now beyond the canyon, and can see just how far the vast Jasper fire extended throughout the national forest.

The descent is about a half mile in length, with lots of switchbacks. During the whole time I was thinking to myself how glad I was to have not gone up this direction. It is considerably steeper than the gradual grade at the north end. Thank you Echo, for the tip.

Summarizing the Hell Canyon Trail, be prepared for a stark contrast of scenery. Down in the canyon it is lush and green. Along the canyon rim it is total devastation. The difference is striking. Wildfire has incredible power. This was one of my favorite hikes during the week in western South Dakota, especially the lower portion. Despite the destruction, I think you would enjoy it too. Thankfully the wildfire spared the canyon itself. If you like, just go out to the end of the canyon, then come back the same way.

I don’t normally promote businesses in my trail reports, but Dave and I had such an excellent experience at the Econolodge in Custer that I had to mention it. The staff that works there are all super friendly, helpful and knowledgeable. We stayed with them for six nights and were completely satisfied. The price is very reasonable and the amenities are all that we needed. If you’re staying in Custer, SD I highly recommend the Econolodge.

 

 

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

 

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Old Sugarlands Trail, Great Smoky Mountains National Park https://internetbrothers.org/2017/11/20/old-sugarlands-trail-great-smoky-mountains-national-park/ https://internetbrothers.org/2017/11/20/old-sugarlands-trail-great-smoky-mountains-national-park/#comments Mon, 20 Nov 2017 16:07:47 +0000 http://internetbrothers.org/?p=25959

ne of the more enjoyable trails I have hiked recently in the Smokies, Old Sugarlands follows West Prong of Little Pigeon River for a mile and a half, then turns to the east and ascends the western flank of the LeConte Ridge another 2.4 miles to a pastoral setting known as Cherokee Orchard. This trail […]]]>

One of the more enjoyable trails I have hiked recently in the Smokies, Old Sugarlands follows West Prong of Little Pigeon River for a mile and a half, then turns to the east and ascends the western flank of the LeConte Ridge another 2.4 miles to a pastoral setting known as Cherokee Orchard. This trail receives surprisingly little use despite being surrounded by a hub of activity at Sugarlands Visitor Center and Park Headquarters. Once you reach the top, you can extend the hike 1.8 miles round trip with a visit to historic Bud Ogle Cabin, or connect to multiple options for climbing iconic Mt. LeConte. I hiked the Old Sugarlands Trail on Friday, November 17, 2017 beginning at 9:15AM and ending about 1:50PM. My plan was to take Old Sugarlands Trail to its terminus at Cherokee Orchard, visit Bud Ogle Cabin, then return the way I came.

Hike Length: 9.6 miles Hike Duration: 4.5 hours

Hike Rating: Moderate. The first mile and a half is very easy, with the remainder a moderate ascent.

Hike Configuration: Up and back Blaze: None needed

Elevation Change: 1,160 feet Gain: 1,470 feet Elevation Start: 1,417 feet

Trail Condition: Very good. First 1.5 miles is single track with limited tripping hazards. The ascent is a very smooth old roadbed. Branch crossings are easy rock hops.

Starting Point: Trailhead is on Hwy 441 across from Park Headquarters.

Trail Traffic: I encountered only two other hikers on this Friday in mid-November.

How to Get There: Enter the Tennessee side of Great Smoky Mountains National Park and drive to Sugarlands Visitor Center. Continue on Hwy 441 toward Gatlinburg another quarter mile. The trailhead is next to the road on the right, just past a bridge over the river and across the highway from Park Headquarters. There is parking for about five cars.

 

 

 

I haven’t spent any time hiking the Gatlinburg region of the Smokies park. Usually when I go to the Tennessee side, I blow right on by heading to Elkmont, or Tremont, or Cades Cove. Based on a wonderful experience hiking the Old Sugarlands Trail, I’m likely to spend more time exploring trails near Gatlinburg. It was one of my favorite hikes of 2017.

As usual, when I’m heading to the Tennessee side, I drove through the North Carolina region on Hwy 441 to Newfound Gap, and then beyond to the Sugarlands Visitor Center. There were elk in the fields at Oconaluftee, including a couple of bulls. A flock of turkeys were doing their gobbler thing beside the road at Tow String. This was just a hint of the wildlife experiences I would enjoy later in the day.

Once I crossed into Tennessee and started down from Newfound Gap I was treated to forest at the base of Mt. LeConte still dazzling with autumn’s finest coloring. Most of the tourists seeking a Smokies leaf peeping vacation were long gone, so the roadway was nearly deserted. I found the same to be true on Old Sugarlands Trail, encountering only two other hikers the whole day, a couple of long-timers who happened to help me at a somewhat confusing trail junction.

To find the trailhead for Old Sugarlands, pass by the turnoff for the Visitor Center and stay on 441 toward Gatlinburg. Go another quarter mile to Park Headquarters, cross the bridge over West Fork of the Little Pigeon River, then park on the right. You will see a trail sign.

As you begin hiking, almost immediately on your left you will pass a 70-foot cliff of grey sandstone that was a quarry used by the Tennessee transportation department when building the first paved roads over the mountains. The sound of rushing water will be on your right as you parallel West Fork for the next mile and a half. There are occasional opportunities to explore along the river bank, with various sizes and shapes of cobbles in abundance.

The trail makes a short climb above the river through a narrow rhodo and doghobble tunnel, then drops back down again. At 0.6 mile you will reach a junction. Follow Old Sugarlands down and to the right, then across a small branch. The trail going up and to the left is Twomile Lead, one you will see again later, and much higher.

The next mile of the hike is remarkably level and straight as it continues to follow West Fork. The forest is quite dense here, with many of the trees sugar maple saplings, the origin of the Sugarlands name. The trail travels in a southeasterly direction, which meant I was heading directly into the November morning sun. The warmth felt invigorating on an otherwise chilly morning. Because of the level floodplain in this area, as you can imagine, there used to be home sites here. Keep your eye out for signs of century-old civilization.

 

Looking upstream from the bank of West Prong of Little Pigeon River along Old Sugarlands Trail.

 

The farmers who lived here in the 19th century had orchards with nearly a dozen different varieties of apples. Because of the plentiful native sugar maples, they sold maple syrup as well. You will notice occasional rock walls that the farmers used to keep roaming wildlife like deer out of their vegetable gardens. As the century turned, the farmers gave way to a new burgeoning tourist industry. The first hotel, and the first gas station were built here. Even the Smokies experienced the Roaring 20’s.

At the 1-mile mark you will come to a small foot bridge over Bullhead Branch. If you look real close on the left side of the bridge, you’ll find a 1934 survey benchmark. The trail continues straight and level for another few hundred yards. In spring, this is a haven for wildflowers including trailing arbitus, spring beauties, bloodroot, and self heal. Look also for a grove of sweetgum trees.

The trail makes a left turn at another tributary of Bullhead Branch, then continues for a tenth mile before turning to the right. If you look in the woods here you’ll see the remains of a former Civilian Conservation Corps camp, including a stone clock tower. Just another tenth mile farther, and you make a left turn again. I found this area of the trail to be particularly wet, as it seems one of the myriad of branches in the area has decided to leave its normal stream and use the trail as it searches for the river.

The next landmark comes at the 1.5 mile mark. There is a junction here that was somewhat confusing to me. A trail sign seemed to imply that you wanted to turn right to stay on Old Sugarlands. Fortunately a pair of fit octogenarian hikers just happened upon the scene as I was pulling out my map. They were quite experienced in a number of ways, especially on what trail went where.

Actually, they said, Old Sugarlands stays straight ahead. If you take the trail on the right, it leads to an old cemetery about three-quarters of a mile away. There were also schools out that way at the turn of the 20th century, but I decided to save that for a future trip since it was so far off the plan I had.

From this point Old Sugarlands Trail begins its gradual ascent up to the LeConte Ridge. It never does get steep, but it never really levels out again either. Just a good, moderate climb that is great exercise. At the 1.7 mile mark look for more CCC ruins and relics from two camps that were here in the 1930’s and 40’s.

Something else you will notice is evidence of the devastating wildfire that ravaged this section of the Smokies in late November 2016. A small fire at Chimney Tops was spread by near hurricane force winds on that fateful night, leaving a path of destruction on its way to Gatlinburg. Combined with many downed power lines and transformers in the city sparking additional fires, before all was said and done, 14 people had perished.

Remarkably, the forest is recovering quite nicely in this area, just one year later. Unlike Chimney Tops and the Bull Head Trail on Mt. LeConte that may be scarred and inaccessible for decades, the forest is healing along Old Sugarlands. We can only hope that over time, so too will the people of Gatlinburg.

 

The extraordinarily beautiful Old Sugarlands Trail is recovering quite nicely from the 2016 wildfire.

 

As I rounded a small turn, standing proudly 50 feet ahead was a rather large buck. It wasn’t really close enough to count antler points, but he was a pretty big boy. Darn, I said to myself. I only brought my fixed focal length camera lens and it is quite short, only 17mm. I did the best I could, and then he moved on. Usually I carry a zoom lens, but didn’t this time.

The trail continues on an old roadbed as it ascends for another two miles. I found this stretch of trail to be not only easy to hike, but quite beautiful to look at. There was still just a hint of autumn color in the woods. Those colors must have been literally regal just a couple weeks before. Mental note to self. 😉

There are a couple of switchbacks as you climb the road. Otherwise, it’s just a gentle amble up the ridge through a stunning forest. As you pass through 2,400′ elevation the surrounding mountains become visible through the woods, particularly when the leaves are down. Sugarland Mountain is especially evident.

At the 3.2-mile mark you will come to a junction with the aforementioned Twomile Lead horse trail, and then just another tenth farther come to another horse trail known as Twomile Branch. I have added these to my plans for future hiking opportunities in this area. As you reach the high point of Old Sugarlands Trail, you come to another junction, this one with Bull Head Trail, one of five trails that will take you to the summit of immensely popular Mt. LeConte. Unfortunately, Bull Head is closed following the fire, and is likely to remain so for quite some time.

From here, the trail dips as it is another 0.4 mile to the end at Cherokee Orchard. Just before you get to the finish you will cross a footlog over LeConte Creek. As you reach the end you will notice trail signs for Trillium Gap and Rainbow Falls, other means of climbing to the summit of Mt. LeConte.

From this point on Cherokee Orchard Road you are a mere 0.9 mile from the Bud Ogle Cabin. I still had plenty of energy, and I knew the way back was downhill, so I thought I’d go check out the historic site. Just one thing to consider though. It is all downhill to the cabin, meaning you have to climb back up the road to return to Old Sugarlands Trail.

 

Pretty nice place to have a home, huh? I’m sure Bud Ogle thought so.

 

After exploring the cabin and barn for a bit, I pulled up a piece of Bud’s front yard under a poplar tree to enjoy lunch. The nourishment helped me climb back up to Old Sugarlands for the return trip. Then, who should I see at the junction but the two oldtimers from earlier enjoying their own lunch?

Just as the climb up the mountain was no sweat, the descent was a piece of cake. What was truly memorable however, were the wildlife encounters. I’ve had days in the wilderness out West when I’ve seen multiple critters on the same hike. That is more rare here in the East. This just must have been my day.

It started after I had gone back past the three trail junctions when I heard a ruckus in the woods just off the trail. Then, suddenly, here came a mama black bear and four cubs scurrying across the trail about 75 feet ahead. I think my appearance must have startled them, and being naturally shy, they high-tailed it out of there in a hurry. Again, darn it, sure wish I had my zoom lens, but I did my best.

No more than 10 minutes later, I rounded a bend and there was a doe grazing on the side of the trail. I approached very slowly ten feet at a time. She would occasionally raise her head to assure I didn’t make any sudden moves, but mostly she was more interested in the food than she was in me. Walk slowly ten feet… take another picture. Lather, rinse, repeat.

She allowed me to get to within about 20 feet when she finally decided to move into the woods. Still, she was in no rush. She simply walked away. No hurry. No worry. She felt completely safe, apparently. Wow, what a day for wildlife! And I haven’t even mentioned the dozens of squirrels that were constantly darting across the trail track, or the woodpeckers rat-a-tat-tatting.

No more wildlife encounters the remaining couple miles, but it was still a wonderful stroll through the forest. Just thinking about all the sights I had seen, the friends I had made (both human and otherwise), and the exceptional weather for November had made this one of the best hikes I’ve had in some time. In my view, Old Sugarlands Trail is extremely underrated. I had an absolutely delightful time. You should definitely check this one out.

I made one more stop on my way out, pulling into the Park Headquarters to take a look at Cataract Falls. It’s a tenth mile trail to this 30 foot waterfall, that unfortunately on this day was pretty dry. Probably best to visit this one in spring.

 

 

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

 

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Indian Creek and Juney Whank Loops at Deep Creek, Great Smoky Mountains National Park https://internetbrothers.org/2017/03/03/indian-creek-and-juney-whank-loops-at-deep-creek-great-smoky-mountains-national-park/ https://internetbrothers.org/2017/03/03/indian-creek-and-juney-whank-loops-at-deep-creek-great-smoky-mountains-national-park/#comments Fri, 03 Mar 2017 14:51:54 +0000 http://internetbrothers.org/?p=22677

eep Creek is one of many popular recreation areas found in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Camping and picnicking are in abundance, as well as plenty of waterways for fishing and tubing. The assorted hiking trails also make it a fun destination for you and me. This hike, a combination of two different small loop […]]]>

Deep Creek is one of many popular recreation areas found in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Camping and picnicking are in abundance, as well as plenty of waterways for fishing and tubing. The assorted hiking trails also make it a fun destination for you and me. This hike, a combination of two different small loop trails affords the opportunity to visit the three famous Deep Creek waterfalls, to explore the nearby forest, and to follow the refreshing streams that flow through the area. Ken and I visited Deep Creek on Tuesday, February 28, 2017 beginning at 8:30AM and ending about 12:15PM. Our plan was to take the Deep Creek Trail to its meeting with the Loop Trail, hike over the mountain to the Indian Creek Trail, then join the Deep Creek Horse Trail for its journey past Juney Whank Falls and the return to the start.

Hike Length: 6.5 miles Hike Duration: 3.75 hours

Hike Rating: Moderate. Most of the hike is fairly easy, but there are steep climbs on Loop Trail and Horse Trail.

Hike Configuration: Figure 8 Blaze: None needed

Elevation Change: 580 feet, gain 1,160 feet Elevation Start: 1,808 feet

Trail Condition: Very good. Most of this hike is on double track forest road. Loop Trail is single track, but with minimal obstructions.

Starting Point: At the terminus of Deep Creek Road, across from campground.

Trail Traffic: There were half a dozen other hikers out on this delightful day.

How to Get There: From the intersection of Hwy 441 and Route 19 in Cherokee, NC, drive 10 miles south on Route 19 to Everett Street in Bryson City. Turn right onto Everett and drive 0.2 miles, and then turn right onto Depot Street. After a short distance, take a left onto Ramseur Street and then an immediate right onto Deep Creek Road. Drive 2.3 miles to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park entrance, and then another half-mile to the parking area for the Deep Creek hike.

 

 

 

Deep Creek Campground at the entrance to the national park was the home of the Civilian Conservation Corps from 1933 to 1936. While there, they constructed several trails in the vicinity including this one, Noland Divide, and Thomas Divide, all of which are more than 12 miles in length.

Parking for this trailhead is located just across the creek from the campground, at the end of Deep Creek Road. The trailhead is right alongside Deep Creek. It is then a short 0.2 mile stroll on wide gravel road to the first feature, picturesque Tom Branch Falls.

This 80-foot waterfall is on the hillside across Deep Creek, at the point where Tom Branch plunges into the creek. The waterfall is broken into several separate shelves, creating a wealth of splashy cascades. Interestingly, when the water flow is low like it was on this day, it switches from side to side as it crosses the ledges. The Park Service has placed several benches for anyone to just sit and enjoy the view. Tom Branch Falls is especially lovely when the surrounding forest is alive with color in Autumn.

As you continue along Deep Creek Trail you’ll cross on scenic foot bridges enabling the opportunity to peer up and down stream. During late summer, early fall this trail is lined with hearts-a-poppin’-with-love wildflowers, sometimes known as strawberry bush. It’s about a half mile of easy, level strolling alongside the creek to the junction with Indian Creek Trail, what will later be the end of your first loop. For now, continue straight ahead on Deep Creek Trail.

Not far beyond the junction you will cross another foot bridge, this time over Indian Creek, then come to another junction. You will take a right turn up the hill to continue on Deep Creek Trail, but this is also where you will eventually return to take the left fork to begin the second loop of this hike.

After topping a short rise, the forest road stays alongside Deep Creek, now a series of mostly still pools interspersed with occasional shoals. Deep Creek is also filled with the very common Smokies moss covered rocks. This is a nice wet playground for kids to cool off on a hot summer day.

 

This long straight stretch of Deep Creek is characterized by shoals interspersed with still pools and the occasional log jam..

 

At the end of the long straightaway on Deep Creek Trail you will make one more crossing of the creek on a foot bridge and come to the junction with what is simply called Loop Trail. Deep Creek Trail itself continues many, many miles farther into the Smokies backcountry. However, for this hike take Loop Trail to its meeting with Indian Creek Trail one mile away.

We were surprised to see blooming forsythia along the trail. Surprised, one, because forsythia is obviously not a native flower to the Smokies, and two, because it must have been brought here by a settler. We looked around for a foundation or remnants of a homestead, but could not pick one out. The blooms in late February were a nice treat.

Loop Trail begins a steep climb almost immediately, gaining 440 feet over the next half mile. Between your huffs and puffs, enjoy a forest of white pine, sugar maple, eastern hemlock, and in late April-early May, flowering dogwood. Trails crew work is in evidence along the way, with water bars and stairways strategically placed to prevent erosion.

At the top of the ridge, at the halfway point, Loop Trail meets Sunkota Ridge Trail, another of the many that head deep into the Smokies backcountry. Ah, another hike for another day. Just as steeply as you climbed, you will now drop down the other side to the Indian Creek drainage. This area is a delight in spring, with an understory of dogwood and mountain laurel.

The forest is beautiful (the picture up at the top of this post was taken here), with nice viewing of the surrounding mountains when the leaves are down in winter. Soon you will come to a spring on your right side that will become a small creek carved through a narrow ravine as it trickles down the steep hillside. As you near the junction with Indian Creek, you will hear the sounds of cascading water before you see it.

For this loop, turn right on Indian Creek Trail. For future consideration, if you were to turn left, you can go to the Deeplow Gap Trail, and eventually on to Martins Gap Trail to undertake a very large loop that meets the far end of Deep Creek Trail.

For its entire length Indian Creek Trail is an old roadbed that is now used by hikers, horses, and perhaps surprisingly, by mountain bikers. Deep Creek and Indian Creek are two of the very few trails in the Smokies to accommodate mountain bike riders. Soon, you will reach a junction with Stonepile Gap Trail, a means of accessing Thomas Divide. But continue on just a short way, crossing a bridge over Indian Creek, then you will hear the rushing sound of Indian Creek Falls.

 

This angle of Indian Creek Falls, from above, belies the picturesque nature of its cascade. Especially during times of high water flow, this one is perhaps the most attractive of the major waterfalls in Deep Creek. Look for another photo of Indian Creek Falls in the gallery below.

 

A mere 200 feet after passing Indian Creek Falls you will return to Deep Creek Trail for the end of the first loop. Take a right, cross over Indian Creek, then reach the beginning of the second loop, this time a left turn onto Deep Creek Horse Trail. We passed by another stand of forsythia, then crossed a footlog over a small branch.

You now have a decision to make. Turn left to take the Horse Trail, or go straight ahead on an unnamed manway that climbs up, up, up to eventually meet the Noland Divide Trail. Ken and I thought we would explore this manway for a bit since we still had plenty of time. We went up 360 feet in little more than a quarter mile, gasping for air most of the way. Instead of leveling out, this pathway just kept getting steeper and steeper. We decided enough was enough and turned around.

The Deep Creek Horse Trail was up too, but at least on a more modest grade, climbing only 260 feet to the top of the ridge. The forest along the horse trail is another beauty, filled with beech and maple, among the many hardwoods. After topping the ridge you begin descending to a meeting with the Juney Whank Trail.

This Cherokee phrase roughly translates to “place where the bear passes.” Juney Whank Falls is an 80 foot cascade with a foot bridge crossing about half way up. From the bridge you look up for the top half of the falls and down for the bottom. It seems a little whanky, shall we say, to put the bridge right in the middle rather than at the bottom. Oh well, that’s my photographer’s brain working. The good news is the bridge puts you close enough to touch the water.

There is a very comfy bench on the foot bridge that made a great place for Ken and I to enjoy lunch and the splashing cascade of the waterfall. As we were almost finished with this hike, it was a fine end to what had been a glorious morning. After nourishing ourselves we continued down Juney Whank Trail the final 0.4 mile back to the trailhead parking area.

In summary, this is a great double loop hike with a little something for everyone. If you’re out for a stroll with the family, there is plenty to do along the creeks, and waterfalls to enjoy. If fitness is your cue, then the climbs on Loop Trail and Horse Trail will fill your bill. These loops offer the best of the Smokies that includes stunning forest, ubiquitous waterways, even grand views of the majestic Great Smoky Mountains. What’s not to like?

 

 

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

 

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Paris Mountain State Park Trail System, South Carolina https://internetbrothers.org/2016/03/19/paris-mountain-state-park-trail-system-south-carolina/ https://internetbrothers.org/2016/03/19/paris-mountain-state-park-trail-system-south-carolina/#comments Sat, 19 Mar 2016 13:23:06 +0000 http://internetbrothers.org/?p=18864

amed for an opportunistic traitor who supported the Crown during the Revolutionary War, Paris Mountain State Park was constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the Great Depression. Richard Pearis owned 150,000 acres including what is now Greenville, SC and this state park north of the city. Once no more than a rural retreat, Paris […]]]>

Named for an opportunistic traitor who supported the Crown during the Revolutionary War, Paris Mountain State Park was constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the Great Depression. Richard Pearis owned 150,000 acres including what is now Greenville, SC and this state park north of the city. Once no more than a rural retreat, Paris Mountain is now a bustling destination for hikers and mountain bikers who test their conditioning on the park’s mature trail system. In addition to the near 15-mile trail infrastructure, there is plenty else here for the entire family including swimming, fishing and boating in the park’s three reservoirs. I paid a visit to Paris Mountain on Wednesday, March 16, 2016 from 10:00AM to 2:30PM. My plan was to make two loop hikes, the first around Lake Placid at the Park Center. The second is a longer affair that included the Brissy Ridge Trail to Pipsissewa and the path around North Lake, followed by a climb to the top of the park on Kanuga Trail to the old fire tower, and a return on Sulphur Springs Trail.

Hike Length: 8 miles Hike Duration: 4.5 hours

Hike Configuration: Two separate loops Blaze: Many different colors

Hike Rating: Moderate. Some elevation gain on Kanuga Trail but nothing particularly strenuous. There are many options for making the mountain loop shorter or longer.

Elevation Change: Lake Placid Tr is level, mountain loop changes 690 ft, gains 1,540

Elevation Start: Lake Placid is 1,060 feet; Brissy Ridge is 1,480 feet

Trail Condition: Some good, some fair. Pretty much every trail is rocky and rooty from erosion through the years. None of the trails are difficult to follow. Sulphur Springs Trail is probably in the best condition of all.

Starting Point: Park Center for the loop around Lake Placid. The Brissy Ridge trailhead at the top of the park road for the mountain loop that includes North Lake and the old fire tower.

Trail Traffic: I encountered two other hikers and a school field trip on Lake Placid Trail. The mountain loop was busier with perhaps a couple dozen other hikers and 8-10 mountain bikers. I suspect this is real busy during green season.

How to Get There: From Hendersonville, NC and points north take Hwy 25 south to Travelers Rest, SC. From Greenville, SC take Hwy 25 north to Travelers Rest. Turn onto State Park Road from Hwy 25 and travel 9 miles. Take a hard right turn, remaining on State Park Road, and travel an additional mile to the park entrance on the left. Park Center is a half mile inside the park.

 

 

When I passed through the double-stone gate at Paris Mountain State Park, east of Travelers Rest, South Carolina, the first thought that came to mind was how quaint the park is. It is reminiscent of parks I remember as a boy back when gasoline was still 25 cents a gallon. The building they call Park Center was formerly a bath house, used by recreation seekers who came to swim in the reservoirs that provided water to the growing city of Greenville. The restroom facilities are log houses. There are paddle boats and fishing piers all of it cast in the forest shade of giant white pines.

I went to the front door of Park Center to pay my $5 entry fee and to buy a trail map (you can also download one here), but much to my surprise, they didn’t open until 11:00am. So with a little less than an hour to kill, I decided to take a stroll around Lake Placid, the primary recreation spot right there at Park Center. This very easy loop around the lake is just 0.8 mile in length and surrounded by oak and pine. I traveled around the shore clockwise, visiting the marshy area on the west end first.

As I rounded the tip and followed the north shore I could hear the unmistakable giggling of children ahead. Sure enough, in a few moments I passed right through the middle of an impromptu nature class conducted by a park ranger to the youngsters lucky enough to enjoy the gorgeous weather on this early spring day. I fondly remembered the rare opportunities I had as a child to do the same thing. It sure beats sitting in a classroom.

On the east end of the lake the trail descends the slope below the stonework dam that contains Lake Placid. Droplets from the overflow were twinkling in the bright mid-morning sunshine. A quick climb back up to surface level continues the circuit to the south side. You cross a boardwalk bridge over Mountain Creek as you pass picnic tables and shelters. I can imagine this place really jumpin’ in the dog days of summer.

The final hundred yards takes you back to Park Center… and how about that… perfect. It was now 11:00 right on the dot. Here are a few photos from my first walk of the day around Lake Placid.

 

 

Once inside the visitor center I took care of the financial transactions then asked the employee for some multi-hour trail recommendations. She said my best bet was to drive to the end of the park road at the top of the mountain and begin a large loop on the Brissy Ridge Trail. From there I would have several options for a shorter or longer hike depending on my stamina and endurance. At the least, though, she said I had to pay a visit to North Lake.

The drive along the park road is very picturesque, through groves of pine and assorted cove hardwoods. There are picnic areas seemingly every few hundred yards and trailheads on both sides of the road. All told, there are nearly 15 miles of trails in Paris Mountain State Park and I was hoping to knock off about half of those on this adventure. After a couple miles of twisty, turny steeply uphill driving I reached the parking area for an assortment of trails.

Five different trails take off from here, and there are but nine marked parking places. Even on this Wednesday morning the parking was full. I would learn later a big reason for that was the club group of 20 or more hikers that all arrived together. Well, what to do? I continued farther out the park road and much to my relief there was overflow parking a quarter mile away. At the gate for Camp Buckhorn there are about a dozen parking spots on a hill to the left.

The Brissy Ridge trailhead is at the far western end of the original parking area. There is a large signboard there with a park trail map and other typical warnings and education postings. Brissy Ridge Trail takes off to the right and as its name implies, winds along a ridge through the heart of the forest. It is marked yellow on the trail map and with blaze marks on trees.

The forest is completely different to what I’m used to in the Smokies and Western North Carolina. Mostly pine, and quite sparse, almost even bare, it is typical of this elevation. Everything seemed to me to be very dry… the trail, the woods, the fallen leaves. It has been a few weeks since a good rainfall. After about a mile Brissy Ridge Trail passes Kanuga Trail. This is an option for one of the shorter loops and is preferred by mountain bikers.

After another quarter mile Brissy Ridge meets the green-blazed mile-long Pipsissewa Trail that takes you to North Lake. This trail is more of the same rocky, rooty, almost even dusty trek through a thinly forested ridge line. It descends just a bit into the bowl where North Lake Reservoir is. I passed a couple mountain bikers coming up as I was going down.

I could tell I was approaching North Lake when it finally began to get a little green. There were rhododendron and laurel, and even a few leaf buds just beginning to peep out. There must be water nearby I thought. The grey colored North Lake Loop junction offers a choice for circuiting the lake. I chose the left fork to take the southern shoreline.

 

Not far past the North Lake Loop junction is this picturesque view looking toward the dam on the eastern end of the lake. The northern suburbs of Greenville are off to the right of this shot.

Not far past the North Lake Loop junction is this picturesque view looking toward the dam on the eastern end of the lake. The northern suburbs of Greenville are off to the right of this shot.

 

There are campsites all around North Lake. When I arrived at the one named Rhododendron #5 it was time for lunch. So I took the little spur trail and much to my delight, there was even a picnic table. The photo at the top of this post was taken from my spot for lunch. I could hear voices coming from the west, at the far end of the lake.

When I got back on the trail after lunch, I found where the voices were coming from. There were at least 20 hikers sitting at another campsite at the Kanuga Trail junction. I don’t think they ever saw me as I kind of surreptitiously crept by and took a left on red-blazed Kanuga. The next three-quarters mile is really the only stretch of this loop that requires any exertion. It makes a steady uphill climb of about 600 feet to the highest point in the park.

Fortunately it does so with wide, sweeping switchbacks that surround the mountain. Other than the lakes, I saw the first water on this ascent. There were a few small streams flowing down the drainages to North Lake. As I stopped for the occasional photo op, I was passed by a young woman walking a menagerie of pooches. What a delightful way to spend the day.

I began to notice more and more leaf buds poking out of the tips of the tree branches. Little hints of spring greening popped here and there. As I approached the top of the ridge, I could see North Lake far below and the flowering trees of Greenville subdivision landscaping far in the distance. This would not be available in summer when the view would be obscured by the tree canopy.

At the top of the mountain is a little connector to the Fire Tower Trail. Marked with blue blazes, this trail goes in both directions. I took the right turn to go see what the fire tower was all about. The CCC constructed fire tower is long gone, but the red brick ruins of the four room house used by forest rangers still remain. What also remains is a very high rent district. Perched high on this mountain are several trophy homes that stand sentinel above the community of Travelers Rest. This is the park boundary. It goes without saying that the homes are on private property, so behave yourself.

I sat on the former front porch steps of the ranger dwelling enjoying a snack and pondering life here during the Great Depression. When real estate developers came up the mountain during World War II the fire tower was moved, and the ranger home abandoned. I went back the way I came to take the other fork of Fire Tower Trail and its eventual meeting with Sulphur Springs Trail, one of the more popular mountain biking circuits.

It is pretty obvious that white-blazed Sulphur Springs Trail used to be the road to the fire tower. It is wider, smoother, sandier, and a lot more conducive to mountain bike enjoyment than the very rocky Brissy, Pipsissewa and Kanuga trails. It is also the longest loop within the park at 3.6 miles, but for my purposes it was the final mile-long leg back to the Brissy Ridge parking area. By the time I finished and returned to my car I had done about seven miles on the variety of trails that made up my loop. A good endeavor.

To summarize Paris Mountain State Park, and judging by the number of folks I saw visiting on a mid-week day in March, this must be very popular with the local South Carolina Upstate communities. Not only were there hikers and bikers out on the trails, but nearly every picnic ground had several groups enjoying the beautiful weather. Except for the school field trip, none of them were kids, because it was a school day. So even adults love coming to this little slice of outdoor activity to get away for a few hours.

Located conveniently 10 miles east of Travelers Rest and north of Greenville, it is easy to get to and ideal for the whole family no matter the season. There is an entry fee of $5 per person (half price for kids and discount for SC seniors). You can purchase an annual pass if you plan on visiting frequently. I have not been there during the busy warm-weather seasons, but I suspect it can become crowded. So keep that in mind. I do plan to return to explore the other trails in the central part of the park.

 

 

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.
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Clingmans Dome Area Trails, Great Smoky Mountains National Park https://internetbrothers.org/2015/06/20/clingmans-dome-area-trails-great-smoky-mountains-national-park/ https://internetbrothers.org/2015/06/20/clingmans-dome-area-trails-great-smoky-mountains-national-park/#comments Sat, 20 Jun 2015 14:55:48 +0000 http://internetbrothers.org/?p=15920

lingmans Dome is the highest point in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, in the state of Tennessee, and along the Appalachian Trail. Standing 6,643 feet, it is also the third highest peak in the East, only 41 feet lower than the tallest. Several hiking trails surround the summit of Clingmans Dome, including the Forney Ridge […]]]>

Clingmans Dome is the highest point in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, in the state of Tennessee, and along the Appalachian Trail. Standing 6,643 feet, it is also the third highest peak in the East, only 41 feet lower than the tallest. Several hiking trails surround the summit of Clingmans Dome, including the Forney Ridge Trail that heads south to the picturesque Andrews Bald, and the iconic Appalachian Trail that crosses the summit. You can connect these trails at various junctions to make a six-mile hike that straddles the North Carolina/Tennessee state line, and offers a grand overview of the beauty that is the Smokies. Meanderthals visited Clingmans Dome on Monday, June 15, 2015 from 8:00AM to 11:45AM. Our plan was to enjoy the azaleas and rhododendron at Andrews Bald, then take the connector to the Appalachian Trail and the observation tower on the Dome.

Hike Length: 6 miles Hike Duration: 3.75 hours

Hike Configuration: Series of connectors. Blaze: White on AT.

Hike Rating: Moderate. Somewhat strenuous from Andrews Bald to the AT.

Elevation Change: 710 feet, gain 1,290 feet Elevation Start: 6,296 feet

Trail Condition: Very rocky. The national park has done a lot of work with erosion control to make these trails accessible, but they are still quite rocky.

Starting Point: Parking area at the end of Clingmans Dome Road.

Trail Traffic: We encountered about a dozen other hikers on Forney Ridge, about the same number on the Appalachian Trail, and literally hundreds on Clingmans Dome. Get there early.

How to Get There: From Cherokee, NC or Gatlinburg, TN take Newfound Gap Road (Hwy 441) to Clingmans Dome Road near the state line at Newfound Gap. It is seven miles up Clingmans Dome Road to the parking area and trailhead.

 

 

Directly after turning onto Clingmans Dome Road from Highway 441, there is a one-car pullout on the right. If you would like to see a Civilian Conservation Corps stone tunnel under the road, then stop here. Walk less than a tenth mile up the road and take the footpath down below the level of the road. Voilà! Legend has it that the Appalachian Trail at one time passed through this tunnel.

OK. Now you can resume the drive out to the end of Clingmans Dome Road. When visiting Clingmans Dome, no matter the day of the week, I highly recommend you get there early, like 9:00 AM at the absolute latest. We arrived about 7:45, and there were already 20 cars parked there. When we finished our hike at 11:45, all of the 100 available parking spaces were full, and the cars were lined up waiting for someone to leave. It gets very popular in a hurry.

The trailhead is at the north end of the parking lot, just past the large signboard. You can take the paved path straight up to the summit of Clingmans Dome, but we were headed to Andrews Bald first. So we headed down the dirt and gravel Forney Ridge Trail on the left. You are immediately met with a series of water bars constructed to help prevent erosion on this fragile hillside. These water bars will be with you for the entire descent.

After 0.2 mile you will come to a trail junction. Turn left for Andrews Bald, or turn right for the Appalachian Trail. We started out left, but would return the other direction later. Soon you enter the dark and mysterious elfinwood forest as you descend 550 feet in the next mile. The trail is quite rocky here, so watch your step. Keep your eye out too for wildlife, and for the occasional view through the forest of the surrounding Smoky Mountains.

Krummholz, also known as elfinwood, is a particular feature of subarctic and subalpine tree line landscape. Continual exposure to fierce, freezing winds causes vegetation to become stunted and deformed. Under these conditions, trees can only survive where they are sheltered by rock formations or snow cover. Common trees showing krumholtz formation include various species of spruce, fir, and pine. Instances of krumholtz are found in the northern Canadian boreal forests, and surprisingly in the high country forests of the Smokies and Blue Ridge in Western North Carolina and Eastern Tennessee.

Krummholz, also known as elfinwood, is a particular feature of subarctic and subalpine tree line landscape. Continual exposure to fierce, freezing winds causes vegetation to become stunted and deformed. Under these conditions, trees can only survive where they are sheltered by rock formations or snow cover. Common trees showing krumholtz formation include various species of spruce, fir, and pine. Instances of krumholtz are found in the northern Canadian boreal forests, and surprisingly in the high country forests of the Smokies and Blue Ridge in Western North Carolina and Eastern Tennessee.

 

You will reach the low point of this hike at the junction with the Forney Creek Trail. On a previous visit to this area, we hiked down to the Forney Creek Cascade, but to continue to Andrews Bald, go straight ahead. The next three-quarters mile is a roller coaster, going up and back down, then up once again. Lots of moisture from the near-constant cloud inversions falls on this area, so the park service has constructed boardwalks to help with mud and erosion control.

When you arrive at Andrews Bald, you will know it. The trail pops out into the open of a large meadow that overlooks the southern, eastern, and western slopes below Clingmans Dome. On a clear day like we enjoyed, you can also see Fontana Lake far below from this vantage point. However, the primary reason for coming to Andrews Bald in mid-June is the heath shrubs. Catawba rhododendron and flame azalea dominate the grassy bald, and blueberries are just beginning to take flower.

The bright orange azaleas were putting on quite a show, but the rhododendron was surprisingly missing. On some plants the blossoms had already come and gone, likely knocked down by heavy rain that pelts this area frequently. On others, there were a few buds of those still waiting to bloom, so it was difficult to say if we were too late, or too early. I have noticed in general that this just seemed to be a bad year for catawba rhododendron. It happens.

We met a happy family from Michigan, a dad and his two teenage daughters, and chatted for awhile about the Great Smoky Mountains. They travel quite a bit throughout the United States, and had been quite impressed during their week in the Southern Appalachians. They told us how lucky we were to live nearby. I agreed.

After lots of picture taking and a snack, it was time to continue the next phase of our adventure, so back we went the way we came. Pace yourself on the return. It isn’t particularly steep, but you will be climbing pretty much the entire way. We went back past the Forney Creek junction, and then when we reached the first trail junction, we continued straight ahead on the A.T. connector rather than going back to the parking lot.

This half mile stretch hasn’t received as much love from the trail building crews as the way to Andrews Bald. You will notice the absence of the water bars as you contend with the very rocky and rooty pathway. It remains uphill all the way, so by the time you reach the A.T., you will have climbed continuously for a mile and a half. A good workout to be sure. When you reach the junction, however, it will all seem worth it when you are presented with the magnificent view of Mt. LeConte seen at the top of this post.

At this meeting with the Appalachian Trail you have a choice. Turn right (northbound) to go the 0.3 mile to the summit of Clingmans Dome, or turn left (southbound) to cross Mt. Buckley and begin a steep descent along the state line. We explored some of the southbound direction, keeping our mind on the pitch of the decline. Knowing that every step we went down we would have to come back up, we continued perhaps a quarter mile down the west side of Mt. Buckley, then returned to the junction.

Once we started heading to the summit, it suddenly got a lot more crowded. The handful of other hikers turned into dozens, and then when we reached the paved portion of the trail just a hundred yards from the top it was a mad house.

The observation tower on the summit of Clingmans Dome offers spectacular 360° views of the Smokies and beyond. On clear days views expand over a 100 miles. Clouds, precipitation, and cold temperatures are common at Clingmans Dome. Temperatures at the dome can be 10-20 degrees cooler than in the surrounding lowlands. Dress in layers and be sure to bring a jacket, even in summer. This is the view to the east from the observation tower.

The observation tower on the summit of Clingmans Dome offers spectacular 360° views of the Smokies and beyond. On clear days views expand over a 100 miles. Clouds, precipitation, and cold temperatures are common at Clingmans Dome. Temperatures at the dome can be 10 -20 degrees cooler than in the surrounding lowlands. Dress in layers and be sure to bring a jacket, even in summer. This is the view to the east from the observation tower.

Despite the mass of humanity on the observation tower including crying babies and excited teens shooting selfies with their bff, we enjoyed a few minutes soaking in the surrounding landscape. The massive summit of Mt. Leconte dominates the northern view. Off to the east are Newfound Gap and Mt. Guyot. If you happen to hit it on a rare clear day, you can see all the way to the Black Mountains Range a hundred miles away.

To the west are Shuckstack and Gregory Bald among others, with Cades Cove lying in a valley between ridges. Although you can’t see Andrews Bald from the tower, the southerly view is of the area where we had been hiking earlier. We could also see there were scores more people coming up the paved pathway for their chance to peer out into the heart of the Smokies, so it was time to make room for others on the tower.

Keep in mind that Clingmans Dome is more than 6,600 feet elevation. Among other things, that means the air is thinner than what you are probably used to. As we descended the fairly steep half mile to the parking lot, I listened intently to some of the comments from those who were walking up. For example, one somewhat overweight lady leaned in to her friend and said, “My lungs don’t seem to be working right today.” Another who had stopped to rest on one of the numerous benches along the way was overheard saying, “Whose idea was this, anyway?”

Summarizing, there is a lot more to explore at Clingmans Dome than just the observation tower at the summit. Treat yourself to some time on the Appalachian Trail and/or the Forney Ridge Trail. There are a number of ways to make this hike quite a bit longer if you wish. You can continue down Forney Ridge beneath Andrews Bald. In fact, the trail goes all the way to Fontana Lake, meeting the Noland Creek Trail several miles below. You can go a lot farther southbound on the Appalachian Trail than we did, and you can continue on the Appalachian Trail from the summit of Clingmans Dome northbound to Newfound Gap, and beyond.

Keep in mind too, that there are other trailheads along Clingmans Dome Road, including the Noland Creek Trail that traverses nearly 15 miles all the way to Fontana Lake, and Fork Ridge Trail (also part of the Mountains to Sea Trail) that meets Deep Gap Trail for a long descent into Bryson City, NC. It is warm weather hiking though, because Clingmans Dome Road is closed from December 1 through March 31, and whenever weather conditions require.

The best times for wildflowers and wildlife are May and June, and of course, don’t miss the Fall extravaganza of colors that bless the Smoky Mountains in September and October. Just GET THERE EARLY!

 

 

Updated August 26, 2015

 

Ken and I enjoyed our visit to Clingmans Dome in June so much that we planned another, this time with the friendly crew from Tennessee. We intended to explore two sites we missed last time an old, derelict logging boiler located off the Forney Creek Trail, and a magical field of angelica, ferns and blackberries alongside the Appalachian Trail on the south face of Mt. Buckley.

There were nine of us on this fine Smokies day, plenty to keep each other entertained and occupied. For the first venture, we headed down the Forney Ridge Trail toward Andrews Bald, but stopped at the junction with Forney Creek Trail. Once we had all been herded back together, we proceeded down Forney Creek. Just a few minutes later we took a right into the woods.

A surprisingly easy-to-follow manway took us west through the delightful high-elevation forest, passing remnants of the old railroad bed that were easily identifiable by straight patches of grassy turf. Along the way we passed numerous artifacts including trail rail, brakes and tools, water piping, and the occasional bucket or washtub. Some may call it junk or debris, but when you consider it has been here for a century, others will call it history.

After 10 minutes of tracking through the woods below Clingmans Dome, we found it. This old coal-fired boiler was abandoned by loggers in the 1920s. Not really a locomotive, this was a boiler that produced steam to operate a winch that pulled logs up and down the mountain to log-loader train cars. It is perhaps 15-18 feet in length, so not powerful by any means. While somewhat rusty, it actually has more of a mossy tint to it from decades of decay. If you peer into the firebox, you can still see the coal that spilled after the wreck.

We enjoyed a snack as we traded myths about the history of logging here in the shadow of the Dome. Then, back to the Forney Ridge Trail, we next took the connector up the south shoulder of Clingmans Dome to the Appalachian Trail. We crossed Mt. Buckley, started down the south side perhaps a half mile, then plunged waist deep into a luscious field full of blossoming angelica, the thickest fern forest I’ve ever seen, and enough ripe blackberries to feed the Smoky Mountain bears for weeks.

Just over a year ago, some in the Tennessee crew came to this site to plant a stand of Fraser fir saplings, a project conducted by Miss. State University. They spent an entire day mapping, planting, and tagging hundreds of the 4 inch tall specimens. They endured multiple rain showers, mud and sweat, and lots of corny jokes as they did their part to give back to the wilderness that has given so much to them. It was fun to watch and hear them call out the tree tag numbers as they excitedly discovered that almost all of their plantings have survived and are very healthy.

As you will see in the new photos below, it was another great day in the Smokies; ideal hiking weather, beautiful scenery and wildflowers, stimulating exercise and conversation, and rewarding companionship. You should bring your family and friends to explore the trails around Clingmans Dome. You will find that the fresh air agrees with you.

 

 

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

 

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Elk Mountain Trail, Wichita Mountains National Wildlife Refuge https://internetbrothers.org/2015/05/29/elk-mountain-trail-wichita-mountains-national-wildlife-refuge/ https://internetbrothers.org/2015/05/29/elk-mountain-trail-wichita-mountains-national-wildlife-refuge/#comments Fri, 29 May 2015 18:24:08 +0000 http://internetbrothers.org/?p=15618

ild, rugged, and weathered — the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge in central Oklahoma is a symbol of the old west standing at the threshold of modern times. The natural attractions of the refuge are many and varied. In addition to viewing and photographing wildlife in their natural setting, visitors find the lakes, streams, canyons, mountains […]]]>

Wild, rugged, and weathered the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge in central Oklahoma is a symbol of the old west standing at the threshold of modern times. The natural attractions of the refuge are many and varied. In addition to viewing and photographing wildlife in their natural setting, visitors find the lakes, streams, canyons, mountains and grasslands ideal for hiking, fishing, and other outdoor activities. Elk Mountain lies within the Charons Garden Wilderness Area in the western corner of the refuge. You may not think of rocky-topped mountains when you envisage Oklahoma, but this 3-mile hike to the summit may surprise you with its challenging terrain. My brother Dave and I visited Wichita Mountains on Saturday, May 2, 2015 from 7:00AM to 1:30PM. Our plan was to climb to the top of Elk Mountain to survey the refuge, then return to explore the areas that looked interesting from the summit.

Hike Length: 3 miles Hike Duration: 2 hours

Hike Configuration: Up and back Blaze: None needed

Hike Rating: Moderate. You will climb 600 feet in a little more than a mile.

Elevation Change: 600 feet Elevation Start: 1,640 feet

Trail Condition: Primitive and rocky, but easily followed. This is designated wilderness, so don’t expect any signs.

Starting Point: Sunset parking area. Entrance to Charons Garden Wilderness.

Trail Traffic: Our early arrival enabled us to enjoy the climb nearly by ourselves, but this was a beautiful Oklahoma weekend, so we encountered dozens of others out to savor the day on our way back down.

How to Get There: From Lawton, OK take Hwy 62 to Hwy 115 (Cache exit) north to the Refuge Gate. The Visitor Center is at the intersection of Hwy 115 and Hwy 49. To get to Elk Mountain, take Hwy 49 west 6.6 miles to the Sunset Picnic Area. The trailhead for Elk Mountain is at the entrance to Charons Garden Wilderness.

 

 

No sooner had we entered the Wildlife Refuge than we were greeted by a couple of Texas Longhorns and a big ol’ bison bull grazing in the morning sun on the lush grassland beside the road. I knew right away, this was going to be cool!

The Wichita Mountains National Wildlife Refuge near Lawton and Fort Sill, Oklahoma was first established in 1901 as a Forest Preserve. In 1905, it was redesignated as the Wichita Forest and Game Preserve. Congress designated the Wichita Mountains a National Wildlife Refuge in 1936. The physical environment includes mixed prairie grasslands, with buffalo and grama short-grasses and bluestems, Indian grass, and switch-grass tallgrasses. Several mountains and rock features appear within the refuge, with Mt. Scott as the highest point at 2,464 feet.

The Civilian Conservation Corps was quite active in the Refuge in the 1930s, constructing a number of lakes, roads and trails, and the 8-foot-high big game boundary fence around the 59,000 acre property. The establishment of a national preserve in southwestern Oklahoma culminated a regional movement to protect the shrinking bison population. In 1907 15 bison were brought back to the southern plains by railcar. Twenty elk were introduced in 1911, and in 1927, 30 Texas longhorns found a new home on the grounds of the Refuge. All of the herds have grown, and are still thriving today.

The Refuge has 15 miles of designated hiking trails that offer something for the complete novice, and for the seasoned hiker. The trails wind through scrub oak forest, across rocky mountains, and over grassy prairie. Wildlife abounds throughout, so a new thrill may be just around the next turn. The Dog Run Hollow Trail, a part of the National Recreation Trail System, has trailheads at French Lake, Boulder, Lost Lake, and Dog Run Hollow. You may choose a 1-,2-, or 4-hour hike through some of the more unique areas of the Refuge.

But the one we chose to begin our day was the Elk Mountain Trail in Charons Garden Wilderness. I had read, when planning this adventure, that you could see the entire Wildlife Refuge from the summit of Elk Mountain. To me, that seemed like a great way to check out “the lay of the land,” so to speak. We could enjoy a shortish morning hike, and perhaps get an inkling of the other areas of the Refuge we might want to visit later.

The Congressionially designated Charons Garden Wilderness Area offers hikers an opportunity to test their skills in challenging terrain. In keeping with the wilderness designation, the trails are primitive and can be confused with game trails. Be prepared before you enter any wilderness area. Carry adequate water, wear sturdy shoes, and allow extra time for the rugged and often confusing conditions. This shot is just past the trailhead, of Headwaters Creek, a stream that runs past the park headquarters and into French Lake.

The Congressionially designated Charons Garden Wilderness Area offers hikers an opportunity to test their skills in challenging terrain. In keeping with the wilderness designation, the trails are primitive and can be confused with game trails. Be prepared before you enter any wilderness area. Carry adequate water, wear sturdy shoes, and allow extra time for the rugged and often confusing conditions. This shot is just past the trailhead, of Headwaters Creek, a stream that runs past the park headquarters and into French Lake.

 

As Dave and I began our trek up the Elk Mountain Trail, we were treated to an abundance of Spring wildflowers basking in the golden glow of the early morning sunshine. Mostly bright yellow balsamroot, and blue and purple spiderwort, these exciting blossoms filled the nooks and crannies of the rocky terrain and small, grassy meadows. So too did the prickly pear cactus, something neither Dave nor I expected to find in the plains of Oklahoma.

The pathway is indeed rocky, but we never experienced any difficulty staying on trail. You do ascend the entire way, but never at a steep enough pitch to cause dire huffing and puffing. We found the climb up Elk Mountain to be glorious. The higher we got, the more the surroundings opened up. I have to admit total ignorance when it comes to familiarity with the geology of Oklahoma, but this was a complete surprise to me. When we first saw the mountains from 50 miles away the evening before, we wondered how this happened. These pockets of granite summits 2,000 feet high are scattered about, surrounded by flat plains as far as the horizon.

And lakes. The CCC built 15 dams within the Refuge creating picturesque, crystal-clear reservoirs throughout the reserve. It seemed with each hundred feet we climbed, another lake would come into view. The entire area was stunning. The golden hour just past dawn certainly helped with the mesmerizing appearance, but this refuge is one beautiful place.

Also, the higher we climbed, the more the vegetation changed from grass and scattered wildflowers to scrub oak. I can imagine the upper portions of this trail are a seasonal delight in Fall when the oak assumes its many shades of yellow, orange, and scarlet. It ain’t half bad in Spring either. If any of the Oklahoma natives who may read this know if the Wichita Mountains get snow in Winter, please let us know in the comments section below. Snow would create an even more awesome landscape.

It is 1.1 miles from the trailhead to the summit of Elk Mountain where the trail ends. However, Elk Mountain has a rounded crest that is probably at least 40 acres in size. Dave and I spent 30 minutes exploring the summit and just barely began to scratch the surface. You could spend several hours up there, and enjoy every minute. By now, other hikers were beginning to join us at the top, an early indication of the influx that was to come during our descent.

The timing of our trip across the country just happened to put us at Wichita Mountains on a Saturday. As we discovered on our way down the mountain, this is a very popular place. There were scout groups and church groups, families with youngsters, and geezers like ourselves out to enjoy a memorable wild place. We noticed it too later in the day at the Visitor Center, as the parking lot was nearly full. So, you may want to plan your visit for a weekday.

On the way down we were also entertained by the United States Air Force. The sound of military jets in the sky is unmistakable. Either from Altus Air Force Base just west of Wichita Mountains, or from Tinker Air Force Base in Oklahoma City, several fighter jets were creating man-made thunder that reverberated off the granite of Elk Mountain. Piercing the sky on a straight-up climb, or pirouetting around a puffy white cloud, these guys were out for a Saturday play day just like us. Lawton, OK is also home to Fort Sill, the only remaining active Army installation of all the forts on the Southern Plains built during the Indian Wars.

Best Hike To summarize, Dave and I had a thoroughly enjoyable two hours climbing and exploring Elk Mountain. This is a four-season, family-friendly excursion that took me completely by surprise with how wonderful it is. In fact, I’m giving the Elk Mountain Trail in Wichita Mountains National Wildlife Refuge a Meanderthals Best Hike designation. The vistas are stunning, the wildlife engaging, the lakes refreshing, and we also had very positive experiences with park personnel at the Visitor Center. If you’re traveling I-40 through Oklahoma, it’s definitely worth your while to get off the highway and visit Wichita Mountains.

By the way, after you take a look at the photo gallery below for our hike up Elk Mountain, stick around, because there’s more following the gallery thumbnails. Be sure to scroll down. I’ll tell you a little bit about other sections of the Refuge and even offer a few photos of the wildlife.

 

 

As I mentioned above, you’re likely to see wildlife as soon as you enter the grounds… we did. After all, this is a Wildlife Refuge. In the six mile drive from the entrance gate to Charons Garden Wilderness, we passed three herds of bison and longhorns, as well as lots and lots of wild turkey. We missed out on any elk on the day we were there, but they are around. The elk herd now numbers about 800 and white tailed deer about 450. Many smaller mammal species also live in the Refuge, including coyote, the Nine-banded Armadillo and the Black-tailed Prairie Dog.

 

The prairie dogs really are quite fascinating. I tried to think back if I've ever seen them anywhere before. Soon after we left Elk Mountain, we passed an area along the side of Hwy 49 known as "Turkey Creek Prairie Dog Town." And a town it is. In the short time we stopped, I noticed probably two dozen of the little critters nervously prancing about near their protective burrows. They call the prairie dog sound a "bark," but it really sounds more like a chirp to me. It's all fun and games until someone steps in a hole and breaks an ankle. Just ask the bison.

The prairie dogs really are quite fascinating. I tried to think back if I’ve ever seen them anywhere before. Soon after we left Elk Mountain, we passed an area along the side of Hwy 49 known as “Turkey Creek Prairie Dog Town.” And a town it is. In the short time we stopped, I noticed probably two dozen of the little critters nervously prancing about near their protective burrows. They call the prairie dog sound a “bark,” but it really sounds more like a chirp to me. It’s all fun and games until someone steps in a hole and breaks an ankle. Just ask the bison.

After our hike, and visit to Prairie Dog Town, we stopped at the park Visitor Center to inquire about other interesting sightseeing opportunities in the Refuge. Located at the junction of highways 49 and 115, the Visitor Center is quite nice, and features dioramas and hands-on exhibits that complement the fine art, sculptures, and taxidermy. Maps, books, pamphlets and other info about the wildlife and wildlands are available in the bookstore and gift shop. Environmental education classes covering most natural resources related subjects can be scheduled at the Visitor Center or through the Wichita Mountains Friends Group.

We still had a few hours available before we had to resume our long eastward drive, so a very helpful ranger recommended we go visit Jed Johnson and Rush Lakes, and the CCC era fire tower that overlooks the terrain. We took about a one mile round trip walk past the two lakes to the tower. Finding a very comfortable patch of grass in a field of exquisite balsamroot, we stopped to smell the flowers, breathe the fresh air, and relish the beautiful scenery.

The only negative sight the entire day was an apparent blight that had killed all the trees that surround the two lakes along this trail. It’s really a shame too. The trail is quite scenic as it is, but if the trees were still healthy it would be even more remarkable.

The ranger also recommended we take a drive to the top of Mt. Scott, the highest point within the refuge. The CCC built the road that winds several times around the pyramid shaped mountain on its way to the summit. The ranger was right, the views are indeed illuminating. Off to the east are the town of Lawton, Lake Lawtonka, the army base, and hundreds of wind turbines harnessing the renewable wind energy as far as you can see. On the west side of the rocky summit, past the Charons Garden Wilderness, the Oklahoma plains roll on forever… all the way to the horizon. All in all, a thoroughly enjoyable day.

I just learned that several of the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge staff were seriously impacted by the devastating Memorial Day weekend flooding in Oklahoma and Texas. The Wichita Mountains Friends Group linked above has set up a means of helping those who help us. The Refuge is a cornerstone that brings peace and enjoyment to our hectic lives. Please consider making a donation for our friends in their time of need.

 

 

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

 

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Frijoles Canyon Nature Trail, Bandelier National Monument https://internetbrothers.org/2015/05/25/frijoles-canyon-nature-trail-bandelier-national-monument/ https://internetbrothers.org/2015/05/25/frijoles-canyon-nature-trail-bandelier-national-monument/#respond Mon, 25 May 2015 13:12:52 +0000 http://internetbrothers.org/?p=15539

he Puebloan people have lived in the American Southwest for many centuries. Archaeologists think they are descended from groups of hunters and gatherers who came to the region over 10,000 years ago. In the area that is now Bandelier National Monument, in Northern New Mexico, the villages of Tyuonyi and Tsankawi and their adjacent cliff […]]]>

The Puebloan people have lived in the American Southwest for many centuries. Archaeologists think they are descended from groups of hunters and gatherers who came to the region over 10,000 years ago. In the area that is now Bandelier National Monument, in Northern New Mexico, the villages of Tyuonyi and Tsankawi and their adjacent cliff dwellings appeared in the 13th century AD. Handsome Pueblo revival-style structures and Civilian Conservation Corps trails now serve the park, enabling visitors to discover the history and culture of the ancestral Puebloans. More than 70 miles of trails are available, including this 1.2-mile Frijoles Canyon Nature Trail to Tyuonyi and the Long House cliff dwellings. My brother Dave and I visited this charming national monument on Friday, May 1, 2015 from 7:30AM to 8:30AM. Our plan was to explore the ancient ruins along the Nature Trail behind the Visitor Center.

Hike Length: 1.2 miles Hike Duration: 1 hour

Hike Configuration: Loop Blaze: None needed

Hike Rating: Easy. Limited stairs climbing.

Elevation Change: 200 feet Elevation Start: 6,066 feet

Trail Condition: Excellent. Paved pathway. Portions are wheelchair accessible.

Starting Point: Frijoles Canyon Nature Trail behind Visitor Center.

Trail Traffic: We encountered only wildlife shortly past dawn.

How to Get There: Take NM Hwy 4 to White Rock near Los Alamos. Continue for 12 miles. Bandelier’s entrance is on the left. Entry fee is $12 per vehicle. It is approximately 3 miles from the entrance to the Visitor Center.

 

Bandelier National Monument protects over 33,000 acres of rugged but beautiful canyon and mesa country as well as evidence of a human presence here going back over 10,000 years. Petroglyphs, dwellings carved into the soft rock cliffs, and standing masonry walls pay tribute to the early days of a culture that still survives in the surrounding communities.

40-year-old self-taught anthropologist Adolph Bandelier came to the New Mexico Territory in 1880. His ambitious goal was to trace the social organization, customs, and movements of southwestern and Mexican peoples. He traveled and studied throughout the region, exploring canyons and mesas, living and working among American Indian groups. The sheer cliffs, year-round stream, and distinctive cave-room architecture of Frijoles Canyon captured his imagination.

He made the canyon and dwellings the scene of his novel, The Delight Makers, depicting Pueblo life in pre-Spanish times. He left New Mexico in 1892 and continued his studies in Peru and Bolivia. Bandelier’s pioneering work is now relatively unknown to the public, but it established the foundation for much of modern southwestern archaeology. Another archaeologist, Dr. Edgar Hewitt saw the need to preserve these ancestral Pueblo sites and was instrumental in getting Bandelier National Monument established in 1916.

There was no road into Frijoles Canyon until the mid-1930s when the Depression-era Civilian Conservation Corps built one, along with trails, the Visitor Center, and a lodge. The closest archaeological site is a mere 400 yards from the Visitor Center, and the paved 1.2-mile Frijoles Canyon Nature Trail to Tyuonyi and the Long House cliff dwellings can be walked in about an hour.

Dave and I were exploring the Los Alamos area and decided to check out Bandelier on our way by. When you enter the national monument property, the park road takes you down, down, down for three miles off the mesa and into Frijoles Canyon. We arrived bright and early, just past dawn, and were greeted on the Nature Trail behind the Visitor Center by a handful of white-tailed deer.

The deer were obviously accustomed to tourists as they let us approach within about 20 feet. Their appearance was kinda scarred and scruffly, like they had frequent run-ins with predators.

The deer were obviously accustomed to tourists as they let us approach within about 20 feet. Their appearance was kinda scarred and scruffly, like they had frequent run-ins with predators.

 

Soon after, we reached Tyuonyi. This is one of the largest ancestral ruins I have seen over the years, rivaling Pueblo Bonito at the Chaco Canyon National Historic Park, also in New Mexico. Archaeological surveys have found at least 3,000 sites in Bandelier. For generations the ancestral Puebloans lived in small, scattered settlements. As the population grew, they began coming together in larger groups, forming villages like Tyuonyi.

 

As you pass Tyuonyi, the pathway winds upward to the pock-marked cliffs that overlook the canyon. Here you will find the cliff dwellings. Long House is an 800-foot stretch of adjoining, multi-storied stone homes with hand-carved caves as back rooms. It may be what inspired Bandelier's exclamation, "The grandest thing I ever saw." Here, yours truly peers from one of the cave rooms, accessible by wooden ladder.

As you pass Tyuonyi, the pathway winds upward to the pock-marked cliffs that overlook the canyon. Here you will find the cliff dwellings. Long House is an 800-foot stretch of adjoining, multi-storied stone homes with hand-carved caves as back rooms. It may be what inspired Bandelier’s exclamation, “The grandest thing I ever saw.” Here, yours truly peers from one of the cave rooms, accessible by wooden ladder.

 

As you continue climbing stairs past the cliff dwellings, you will get a nice overview of Tyuonyi in the canyon below. The trail continues for miles up Frijoles Canyon, but our schedule didn’t allow the time. The Nature Trail loops back down into the canyon and a return to the Visitor Center.

Bandelier National Monument sits at the southern end of the Pajarito (Spanish for little bird) Plateau. The plateau was formed by two volcanic eruptions 1.6 and 1.4 million years ago. Home to the Bandelier Wilderness, Bandelier ranges from 5,340 ft. at the Rio Grande to the south and 10,199 ft. at the summit of Cerro Grande to the north, almost a mile of elevation change in just under 12 miles. After completing our walk through history, we set out by car to check out the rest.

Piñon-Juniper woodlands dominate in the southern parts of the park transitioning through ponderosa pine savannahs and forests finally reaching mixed conifer forests at the highest elevation. Scattered throughout the park are desert grasslands, montane meadows, and riparian areas in the canyon bottoms. 70 miles of backcountry trails navigate through Bandelier, so you can bet that we will be back to explore some of the high country.

Bandelier is set within vast amounts of open space. North and west of the park rests the Valles Caldera National Preserve (VCNP), an 89,000 acre nature preserve, which was created by the eruptions that formed the Pajarito Plateau. The size of the eruptions make Mount St. Helens in my lifetime puny by comparison.

On all sides of the park are over one million acres of the Santa Fe National Forest, with the Dome Wilderness adjoining the Bandelier Wilderness western edge. A large portion of the northeastern boundary is shared with Los Alamos National Lab, which covers 26,500 acres of restricted, mostly open space. Bandelier’s direct neighbors make the park’s 33,000 acres feel much larger than it actually is.

The forest and high country here is absolutely stunning, but there is also evidence of recent major wildfire. Thousands of acres have burned in the past 20 years, as wildfire continues to be a major issue plaguing the drought-ridden West.

Dave and I enjoyed our brief, but delightful, visit to Bandelier National Monument. If you find yourself in Northern New Mexico, near Los Alamos or Santa Fe, take the time to look around. The ruins and cliff houses are quite impressive, and the forests and canyons offer thousands of acres of adventure.

 

 

Updated October 5, 2016: Dave and I made another visit to the Frijoles Canyon Nature Trail with a goal of seeing Alcove House, a cliff dwelling 140 feet up the escarpment that guards the canyon. The trail to Alcove House goes about a half mile beyond the main Frijoles Canyon loop. Alcove House is accessible by a series of ladders that climb the rock face.

Frijoles Creek is still littered with log jams from the massive flash flood that roared through the canyon in 2011. Despite that, it is still a beautiful walk through pine forest and steep canyon walls. I was still sick, so when we arrived at the base of Alcove House, I volunteered to take pictures of Dave. Here are the results.

 

 

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

 

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Pisgah National Forest: A History by Marci Spencer https://internetbrothers.org/2015/03/05/pisgah-national-forest-a-history-by-marci-spencer/ https://internetbrothers.org/2015/03/05/pisgah-national-forest-a-history-by-marci-spencer/#comments Thu, 05 Mar 2015 17:21:40 +0000 http://internetbrothers.org/?p=14678

When George W. Vanderbilt constructed the Biltmore House, he hired forester Gifford Pinchot and, later Dr. Carl A. Schenck to manage his forests. Over 80,000 of his woodland acres became the home of America’s first forestry school and the heart of the East’s first national forest. Now comprising more than 500,000 acres, Pisgah National Forest […]]]>

When George W. Vanderbilt constructed the Biltmore House, he hired forester Gifford Pinchot and, later Dr. Carl A. Schenck to manage his forests. Over 80,000 of his woodland acres became the home of America’s first forestry school and the heart of the East’s first national forest. Now comprising more than 500,000 acres, Pisgah National Forest holds a vast history and breathtaking natural scenery. The forest sits in the heart of the southern Appalachians and includes Linville Gorge, Catawba Falls, Wilson Creek Wild and Scenic River, Roan Mountain, Max Patch, Shining Rock Wilderness, and Mount Pisgah. Author and naturalist Marci Spencer treks through the human, political and natural history that has formed Pisgah National Forest.

Scale a bald summit or view one in awe from a distance. Remain quiet while eyes are cleansed of trials back home and drift across soft, blue, misty ridges rolling into one another as if permanently pushed together by a massive wave.

And so, Marci Spencer invites you to discover Pisgah National Forest. In her new book Pisgah National Forest: A History, North Carolina environmental educator Spencer tells the story of how Pisgah NF came to be. “Its story includes Theodore Roosevelt, Gifford Pinchot, Carl Schenck, politicians, conservationists, activists, and others who campaigned for the federal government to protect its forested natural resources. Pisgah’s history is also a story of foresters, wildlife officers and timber management staff tending those woodlands, as well as those people who owned the land before it became a national forest. Pisgah’s story involves scientists and botanists who discovered new species and researchers who collect years of data to guide future management plans. Pisgah’s tale includes hikers, hunters, birders, campers, fishermen, rock climbers and all others who enjoy its recreational opportunities.”

The modern history of Pisgah National Forest begins with George W. Vanderbilt. In the late 19th century, he fell in love with the southern Appalachian mountains and forests and purchased more than 80,000 acres to surround his grand and glorious Biltmore House mansion in Asheville, NC. He also built a hunting lodge near the summit of Mount Pisgah called Buck Spring Lodge. He hired Gifford Pinchot, a renowned forester, to manage the huge woodlands. By doing so, he began the process of protecting this natural playground so that future generations could enjoy and discover that same love and fascination.

The Southern Appalachians were once promoted for the area’s curative powers. Tuberculosis specialists opened pulmonary treatment and study centers.

Even before Pisgah National Forest existed, people came to the mountains of Western North Carolina. The air was clear and the water clean, and the cool summer temperatures and low humidity made it an ideal place to get away from the TB and malaria filled southern coast. Warm water springs were said to cure much of what ailed you, and mountain living slowed the pace of life, enabling relief from the pressures of the helter-skelter big cities. To a large extent, the benefits of mountain life still exist today.

In May, 1913 Vanderbilt estate officials had met with the National Forest Reservation Commission at Buck Spring Lodge offering to sell 86,000 acres of Pisgah Forest to the federal government. By March, 1914 Vanderbilt was gone, dying from complications following an appendectomy. Vanderbilt’s widow Cornelia continued to negotiate the sale of the Pisgah property, and final agreements were reached in 1916, forming the heart of Pisgah National Forest.

That sale began the process of conservation. The former Vanderbilt land was a wonderful starting point. Pinchot was now working for the government, and Vanderbilt had hired Dr. Carl A. Schenck to replace him. Schenck founded the nation’s first forestry school, right in the heart of what is now the Pisgah Ranger District, at a high mountain valley known as Pink Beds. More than 300 foresters graduated from Biltmore Forest School. Four graduates of the school became superintendents of national forests, including Verne Rhoades (class of 1906) who was to be the first supervisor of Pisgah National Forest, campaigned for the preservation of Great Smoky Mountains National Park, and helped start the Carolina Mountain Club. By 1913 however, numerous American colleges and universities were offering degrees in the field of forestry. Fewer than 20 students enrolled that year, and by November the school was closed.

Pisgah National Forest: A History by Marci Spencer

Pisgah National Forest: A History by Marci Spencer

During the Great Depression the Civilian Conservation Corps operated out of many camps in what is now Pisgah National Forest. By 1942 when the CCC ceased operations, NC recruits had built 2,600 miles of roads, 400 miles of trails (including work on the Appalachian Trail), 1,000 bridges and 1,800 miles of telephone line.

Evidence of the work of the CCC is scattered all throughout Pisgah NF. You can’t go on a hike without seeing something that the CCC had their hands on. Among their accomplishments was the contruction of 14-mile Yellow Gap Road from North Mills River to Pink Beds. There are a dozen hiking and mountain biking trails that start or end on Yellow Gap Road. It is one of my favorite places to begin a hike. If you’re looking for an impromptu hike in Pisgah, you could do a lot worse than to start on Yellow Gap Road.

What you are also likely to find on any hike in Pisgah is remains of the logging and timber history. Many of the roads that twist and turn through the forest were built by the loggers. There is evidence of small gauge railway that was used to move downed trees. Dams and log flumes were constructed. You will find half buried cable and trestle scattered throughout. It was the demise of the timber industry that ultimately led to the massive expansion of Pisgah National Forest. Extremely prescient individuals in the U.S. Forest Service saw the opportunities to jump in and snap up the land from bankrupt loggers.

 

The Districts

 

Spencer devotes a great deal of her book, with lengthy chapters, to the development of each of the three ranger districts within Pisgah National Forest. The Grandfather District is known, of course, for Grandfather Mountain, but also for Linville Gorge Wilderness and Wilson Creek Wild and Scenic River.

Called Esseeoh by the Cherokee, meaning “river of cliffs,” Linville’s features are always photogenic.

Some of the most rugged terrain in all of the eastern U.S. is contained within Linville Gorge Wilderness. Protected as an original asset by the Wilderness Act of 1964, Linville Gorge is a haven for hikers, rock climbers, kayakers, campers and folks just looking for a really good time in an awesome gift of Nature. Its smaller neighbor to the East, Wilson Creek (I like to think of it as Linville Gorge lite), is no less rugged or picturesque. Locals are extremely proud of their home and heritage there, and they make great efforts to help preserve its beauty and character for the future.

In the chapter about the Appalachian District, Spencer details the history and path of the Appalachian Trail. The AT makes its way through the Appalachian Ranger District from The Smokies to Max Patch and Hot Springs and on across the balds of Roan Mountain. When Earl Shaffer hiked the full length of the AT in 1948 becoming the first thru-hiker, Pisgah National Forest rangers radioed from fire towers 500 miles from the Smokies to Shenandoah to report his progress.

The Pisgah Ranger District is my stomping grounds. It is closest to my home, and my go to place for enjoying a day in the woods. Perhaps my favorite trail of all is the famous Art Loeb Trail, a 30-miler that begins along Davidson River near the Pisgah District ranger station, and ends at the Daniel Boone Boy Scout Camp at the foot of Cold Mountain. Along the way it passes by the many plutons found in the district, crosses Pilot Mountain and the Blue Ridge Parkway, enters Black Balsam and Shining Rock Wilderness.

Along with Linville Gorge, Shining Rock Wilderness was one of the original protected wilderness designations in 1964. There are six peaks within the area that exceed 6,000 feet elevation, many of them with bald summits, offering dynamic 360° panoramic views of the surrounding Blue Ridge Mountains and Pisgah National Forest. It just doesn’t get much better, and Spencer explains how all of that vast natural beauty became protected in perpetuity.

 

What Did I Think?

 

Since moving to the southern Appalachians from my home in West Virginia in 2003, I have hiked and volunteered throughout Pisgah National Forest. It is my backyard playground. I’ve learned a lot about the forest’s history over the past decade, but Spencer’s book enlightened me to a great deal of minutiae that I found quite interesting. Among the snippets that I previously did not know:

  • Tuberculosis specialists opened pulmonary treatment and study centers in the Asheville area.
  • Vanderbilt’s Motor Road through Hominy Valley to Buck Spring Lodge is now NC Hwy 151.
  • The Buck Spring Lodge buildings were demolished to make room for the Blue Ridge Parkway.
  • Early on a cold November 5, 2004, about sixty brave souls showed up at Buck Spring Gap to clear the brush where the Lodge buildings once stood.
  • Elk and bison introductions into Elk Pasture in Pisgah National Forest in 1917 had both failed by 1930.
  • There is a variety of sortia that grows along the Catawba River that is not found anywhere else in the world.
  • In an effort to reduce galax poaching, NPS and NFS officials developed an encoded, micro-marker dusted onto adhesives applied to galax growing in protected areas. Tagged galax sold to markets could be traced back to the area of illegal activity. Almost 99% of the nation’s galax harvest comes from WNC forests.
  • Southern Appalachian Raptor Research manages Big Bald Banding Station, collecting data on songbirds, raptors and owls. Also, the Eastern Golden Eagle Working Group are collecting data on their winter habits to determine the migration range that needs to be protected.
  • Mica miners routinely discarded feldspar. Now, however, the Toe River region of PNF is the country’s largest kaolin or “china clay” producer from feldspar. Beryl crystals, garnet, tourmaline, and aquamarines can also be found in spoil piles.
  • Southern green alder balds exist nowhere else in the world and thrive primarily on the ridge between Jane Bald and Grassy Ridge in the Highlands of Roan.
  • In a 1960s episode filmed in Pisgah, Lassie went down Sliding Rock.

I keep Pisgah National Forest: A History close by now. It is an excellent reference resource. Whenever I’m putting together a trail report for my experiences in Pisgah National Forest, now I have even more information available that shares stories about those who walked the same paths a century before. I am a lot less likely to take my fun in Pisgah for granted. It took decades of hard work, persistence, and sometimes disappointment before it all came together as the Pisgah we enjoy today. Spencer’s book will help me appreciate every step I take going forward.

After retiring as a nurse practitioner, Marci Spencer earned her certificate as a North Carolina environmental educator and a Blue Ridge naturalist. She is the author of Clingmans Dome: Highest Mountain in the Great Smokies and a soon to be released children’s book based on a true story called Potluck, Message Delivered: The Great Smoky Mountains Are Saved! Marci says she is “Pisgah People.” That’s what she calls us hikers and historians; rock-climbers and explorers; conservationists, artists, writers and photographers; and foresters, researchers, and data collectors. Whether its water, woods, mountain top or cove, people have connected to Pisgah for generations.

You can purchase copies of Pisgah National Forest: A History from History Press or from Amazon.

 

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

 

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