Tucked inside the 800-page, $800 million-plus Agriculture Improvement Act of 2018, known as the Farm Bill, is a smaller piece of legislation dedicated to the continued conservation of thousands of acres of forested land in Tennessee.

The Tennessee Wilderness Act will designate the highest level of protection for 20,000 acres in the Cherokee National Forest. With the bill’s passage this week — and expected forthcoming signature of the president — comes the first new wilderness designation in Tennessee since 1986, when much of the northeast area of the forest was protected.

The act protects about 12,000 acres in the southern zone of the forest in Monroe and Polk counties. The remaining 8,000 acres will create the new Upper Bald zone. That new designation will protect much of the Bald River and Bald River Falls area, which provides water to the Tellico and Ocoee River watersheds.

With the designation comes a set of guidelines on how the area can be managed: no mechanized or gas-powered equipment, no logging, no drilling, no mining, no road building. Ten percent of the forest is designated wilderness. With the new act, that will increase to 13 percent — which is still 5 percent less than the national average for forested areas.

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Mason Boring and Clayton Morgan held adjoining handles of a perforated lancetooth two-man saw, pulling the more-than-70-year-old piece of equipment back and forth.

The two were clearing a fallen tree from Fodderstack horse and hiking trail in Cherokee National Forest. Boring estimated it had been five years since a crew came to clear the path. That’s what brought the two men here, miles from civilization, hiking and pulling a saw older than many of the surrounding trees.

Boring works for Southern Appalachian Wilderness Stewards (SAWS) – a nonprofit partner of the forest service, where Morgan works. The groups are forbidden by the Wilderness Act of 1964 from using mechanized or gas-powered equipment in the wilderness area.

The purpose is to keep wilderness areas wild. Congress and Wilderness Act supporters wanted to ensure the areas weren’t overworked, SAWS Executive Director Bill Hodge said. They would rather see overgrown paths with downed trees than a well-manicured, overworked man-made trail system that only slightly resembles the natural landscape.

“In these wilderness areas, it’s great to see what America looked like before man got here,” Boring said.

Wilderness areas represent an extreme of trail building and maintenance. However — despite the stringent regulations and abstract rules — the overall process is similar to most trail building and maintenance projects in the region: research the audience and terrain, find funding, acquire land, design the trail, build it and keep it relatively clear of debris.

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Ho. Hum. Just another day at Roan Highlands. Now, obviously I’m being facetious. Roan Highlands is probably my favorite place to go in all of Western North Carolina, especially in mid-June when it is catawba rhododendron and flame azalea time.

It’s exciting to hike on the iconic Appalachian Trail, the views of Tennessee and North Carolina on either side of the ridge are among the best you will find anywhere, and the flowers are, to put it mildly, simply gorgeous.

This visit was on June 15, 2017. I arrived at 6:45AM with bad weather expected to approach around noon. I managed to get all of the hike along Grassy Ridge in before the weather started moving in. You will notice in the following gallery that I enjoyed bright blue sky on the way out with fog and overcast on the way back. Weather can change in a hurry in the high country, so always know before you go.

Please feel free to leave your comments and suggestions below the gallery. Thanks for visiting!

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

The Southern Appalachian Highlands Conservancy has purchased 324 acres of land it called “one of our top conservation priorities.”

The acreage is in Carter County on the northern slope of Hump Mountain west of Banner Elk, N.C. Total purchase price was $1,621,120.

“Our purchasing this tract ensures that future generations of hikers will be able to enjoy the beauty and tranquility of the Appalachian Trail on Hump Mountain,” said SAHC executive director Carl Silverstein.

The land comes within 500 feet of the AT, and purchasing it will ensure hikers will continue to get 360-degree views of the mountain grasslands.

An SAHC news release stated that the organization has expressed an interest in the land, owned by Oscar Julian, since 1967. It was joined in the effort to purchase it by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy and the US Forest Service.

The property adjoins Cherokee National Forest and Hampton Creek Cove State Natural Area. The SAHC intends to own the property until funds are available for it to be transferred to the Cherokee National Forest, according to the release.

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Very high wildfire danger continues across much of the Tennessee Valley and Georgia because of the hot, dry weather combined with dead and dry vegetation. Fall leaves have started to drop, which can burn in a fire or cause an area that has already seen fire to be re-burned.

Starting on Oct. 29, 2016, all 655,000 acres of the Cherokee National Forest are off-limits to campfires. Specifically, “building, maintaining, attending or using a fire, campfire or charcoal fire outside of developed recreation areas” is prohibited. However, “the use of portable lanterns, stoves or heating equipment that utilize gas or pressurized liquid fuel is allowed,” according to a news release.

Fires at developed recreation areas are still allowed for now, but must be confined to “receptacles designed for fire,” such as metal fire rings and grills.

Campfires should always be put out and cold to the touch before left for any period of time.

At the Chilhowee Recreation Area in Cherokee National Forest, kids and families celebrated the grand opening of the Kids in Parks program’s 140th TRACK Trail, and the first TRACK Trail in Tennessee!

The trail was installed thanks to a partnership between Cherokee National Forest and the Partners of Cherokee National Forest. The TRACK Trail at Chilhowee is a combination of the Recreation Area’s McKamy Lake Trail (0.6 miles) and the Forest Walk (0.4 miles), making a one-mile figure-eight trail that leads visitors around the site’s scenic lake and through native forest habitats. Along the route, visitors can use a series of self-guided brochures to learn about and connect with the resources that make the forest so fascinating, including lichens, birds, trees, and the relationships that can be found when we get outdoors and enjoy nature.

During the grand opening ceremony, District Ranger Andy Gaston spoke about the unique setting of Cherokee National Forest and the numerous opportunities for families to spend time outdoors in eastern Tennessee through visits to the Forest and Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Gary Schneider, president of Partners for the Cherokee National Forest, spoke about the importance of the forest for kids and families, detailing the numerous activities available to visitors, including swimming, hiking, birding, paddling, fishing and more.

The Chilhowee Recreation Area is unique as a TRACK Trail location because the trail surrounds a small lake, a great spot to go for a swim after a long hike on a hot day! In fact, it was HOT during the grand opening celebration, and as soon as the speeches were over the kids made a beeline for the cooling waters.

Cite…

You can see them from Roan Highlands. They appear when viewed from Linville Gorge and Grandfather Mountain too. The long, green balds that comprise Little Hump and Big Hump Mountains stick out like limes in a grapefruit basket. And, you can see all those other landmarks from the Hump Mountains. The iconic Appalachian Trail (AT) arrives from the Highlands of Roan to traverse these two treeless knobs that stand well over 5,000 feet at their summits. Begin from the headwaters of Roaring Creek, near Spruce Pine. Climb for about ¾ mile on the Overmountain Victory National Historic Trail to reach Yellow Mountain Gap. From there, turn right on the AT and navigate meadows and forests along the spine dividing North Carolina and Tennessee. Prepare yourself to be in awe. My brother Dave, my friend Ken, and I visited the Hump Mountains on Monday, June 6, 2016 beginning at 8:15AM and ending about 3:10PM. Our plan was to take the Overmountain Victory Trail to its meeting with the AT, cross Little Hump and Big Hump Mountains, then return.

This is a hike I’ve been wanting to do for some time, really ever since I laid eyes on the Hump Mountain pair from atop Grassy Ridge in Roan Highlands. I had been somewhat confused about how to get there without hiking all the way from Carvers Gap, a round trip of well over 20 miles. Many thanks to Brenda Wiley for offering impeccable directions to the trailhead. It made this a very doable day hike.

We arrived just past 8:00 after a nearly two hour drive from home. The “we” was my brother Dave, visiting from Colorado, and fellow Meanderthal Ken, my regular and steady companion. The trailhead for the Overmountain Victory Trail is at the end of Roaring Creek Road, a drive that could not possibly be any farther from anything else. This is really, really out there. All the better… the remote nature of this location made it all the more adventurous.

The trailhead is right in the cul-de-sac at the end of Roaring Creek Road, on the right hand side. It’s hard to find the trailhead marker as it’s kind of hidden in the weeds, but there is an old rusty open gate there. We discovered immediately that the trail was already overgrown by summer’s foliage. I could swear (seven hours later when we finished) that the weeds encroaching on the trail had already grown another foot. The old roadbed follows the headwaters of Roaring Creek as it tumbles down from Yellow Mountain Gap.

Just past a quarter mile up the hill, the Overmountain Victory Trail makes a hard left turn into an open field. There is a trail marker here, along the treeline. The field couldn’t look more like an old abandoned ski slope if Lindsey Vonn came schussing past. Both Dave and Ken are skiers, and they were wondering aloud about hiking up here with a pair of skis after a winter snow storm. The trail crosses the “ski slope,” then re-enters the woods on the other side to resume the climb to Yellow Mountain Gap.

As you near the gap, a side trail comes in from the left, one that goes to an Appalachian Trail shelter. Weary AT thru hikers can use this shelter for overnight rest before resuming their next day. As we approached, we just happened to meet one, a nice fellow who was struggling, but determined. 25 yards later you reach the gap, and the junction with the Appalachian Trail. Turn right here toward Little Hump Mountain.

The “ski slope” found as you climb the Overmountain Victory Trail.

“To those living beyond the Appalachian Mountains, the American Revolution was a faraway war that had begun in the villages of New England and concerned places like New York and Philadelphia. Most of the “overmountain people,” as they were called, descended from immigrants who had come not from England but from a vast Irish territory known as the Ulster Plantation. These Scotch-Irish had defied King George III’s 1763 proclamation that prohibited private settlements west of the mountains. They claimed the forbidden wilderness for their own, felling trees to clear the land for small farms, building dirt-floor log cabins, growing what they needed and living as they pleased—a people apart.

The Overmountain Men are best known for their role in the American victory at the Battle of Kings Mountain in 1780 during the American Revolutionary War. They hailed from parts of Virginia, North Carolina, and what is now Tennessee and Kentucky. On September 26, 1780, the Overmountain Men began their long trek over the Blue Ridge, marching from Sycamore Shoals to Shelving Rock at the base of Roan Mountain, where they camped for the night. After crossing the mountain at Yellow Mountain Gap, they followed a well-worn path up the North Toe River Valley to Bright’s settlement (modern Spruce Pine, North Carolina).

Some 11 days later, on October 7, the Overmountain Men reached King’s Mountain and prepared for battle. Loyalist casualties included 157 killed, 163 so severely wounded they were left on the field, and 698 captured. Patriot casualties were 28 killed and 62 wounded. British General Cornwallis abandoned his invasion of North Carolina and fell back into South Carolina. In later years, many of the Overmountain Men played important roles in the establishment of Tennessee and Kentucky. In 1980, Congress appropriated funds for the establishment of the Overmountain Victory National Historic Trail, which follows the original marching route of the Overmountain Men.” [cite Wikipedia]

For the next mile the AT climbs along the treeline adjacent to large fields of tall plants like angelica, indian plantain, and yarrow. There is a magnificent view of the Roaring Creek valley, although at times it was obscured by morning fog that wafted through the hollow with the breeze. Once you get a couple hundred feet higher, if you turn around, you can see the AT shelter down below. We also saw a lone deer standing chest deep in the field, keeping a close eye on us.

We happened upon an oddity: a tree struck by lightning that had split vertically in the trunk. It reminded us of those stilt men you see at carnivals perched high atop 12 foot poles with pant legs all the way to the ground. We called it the “stilt man tree.” It was blackberry blossom season, and we also passed a few blooming wild cherry trees. As we rounded a corner and reached a plateau we got our first glimpse of Little Hump Mountain. This was about to get really exciting.

From the moment you can see Little Hump, it is a long steady hike of about a half mile to the summit. Along the way is a gathering of large rocks, a perfect place for our first break of the day. We each grabbed a snack while Dave took about five minutes of time lapse photos of the fog rolling through Yellow Mountain Gap. It created quite the scene, but obscured most of our view of the surrounding mountains.

From the rock outcropping near the summit of Little Hump, fog obscures the view.

When we crossed to the other side of the summit, the low-lying fog continued. We wouldn’t learn until later, on the way back, what a magnificent view of the southern face of Big Hump Mountain we were missing. Still, it was amazing enough anyway with all the tenuous clouds floating on the wind. We could feel the sun. It was trying to burn off the overcast. We continued on our journey.

On the west flank of Little Hump, the AT enters a really cool beech forest. The trees are twisted and gnarled from decades of battling the fierce wind and storms that blow across the Southern Appalachian balds. For the thru hikers, there are a couple campsites and a spring contained within this forest, useful for water resupply. You also lose a few hundred feet of elevation as you drop into the gap between the two Hump Mountains. All the more to climb later.

On the other side of the beech forest, we got our first glance at the dignified expanse of Big Hump Mountain, and the sun was shining on its southern face. From this spot, not quite all the way down Little Hump, you can see the complete ascent. Familiarize yourself with what you are approaching, because as you climb Big Hump Mountain you will reach a couple of faux summits that will dash your hopes. Are we there yet?

The bare tract up Hump Mountain is imposing. We found another outcrop about a hundred feet up for another break. The nourishment would hopefully steel us for the 500 foot climb up this grand mound. The sky continued to clear. We could now see the summit of Little Hump behind us. We could also see Grandfather Mountain to our east, and the ridges of the Tennessee Smokies to the west.

I don’t do climbing steep mountains well. You’ve heard me whine about that before. Ken, however, is a monster when it comes to uphill. I think he gets his lung power from biking. Anyway, he took off on a speed burn and soon became just a blur hundreds of feet above. Dave, on the other hand, is a slow and steady climber. He can go for hours in the twice-as-high Rockies back home, but gradual and quiet. Me, I just suffer.

But, we all made it. Some 30 minutes later, there we all stood on the 5,587 ft summit. There were others enjoying a picnic lunch, so we continued a little bit down the north face to a plaque honoring Stanley Murray on Houston Ridge. Murray, quite the conservationist, was instrumental in bringing the Appalachian Trail to Roan Highlands. Now, it was time for lunch. We sat down on a rock outcrop and breathed deeply.

From Houston Ridge we could see Little Hump in the foreground, with the Roan Highlands behind.

The views are astounding. The clouds, now puffy whites, had lifted enough to recognize the surrounding landmarks. Each of the balds of Roan Highlands were distinct. This was now the opposite view of what had intrigued me about the Hump Mountains. It was every bit as fantastic as I envisioned. Grandfather Mountain and Linville Gorge are in plain view. I’m not as familiar with the mountain ranges on the Tennessee side, but they are all there to behold.

We stayed for probably a half hour. Even then, I still didn’t want to leave, but we had three hours of hiking and a two hour drive ahead of us. The return trip was remarkable. Everything we couldn’t see earlier in the morning was now in plain view. There were also now more hikers out enjoying the stellar day, including a couple more thru hikers, and our old pal we had first encountered back at Yellow Mountain Gap. He was hiking his own hike, steadily plodding along.

There were more wildflowers now in bloom in the afternoon sun. The birds were in full chorus, including what we later learned was a red breasted grosbeak… a loud and persistent fellow. The climb from the gap between the Humps back up Little Hump was a whole lot easier than summiting Big Hump. After we cleared the beech forest on the upward side and turned around, there it was — what we had missed in the morning fog — a magnificent view of the whole of Big Hump Mountain. You will see it in the photo gallery below.

We didn’t dawdle though. Ominous dark clouds were building over Grandfather Mountain and the recognizable Hawksbill and Table Rock at Linville Gorge. We certainly didn’t want to be on a bald mountaintop if the clouds started waging war. The section between Little Hump and Yellow Mountain Gap seemed longer on the way back. Perhaps we were just a bit apprehensive about approaching bad weather. No worries though… we made it back to the car without a drop of rain.

Best Hike How to summarize the brilliant day we all had? This is a hike you must do. If you aren’t in shape, get yourself fit. It is soooo worth it. Allow plenty of time to enjoy everything the Appalachian Trail through the bald Highlands has to offer. So get there early in the morning. Take some good friends so you have others to share the wonderment with. Keep one eye on the weather, but be sure your other is tuned to the absolute magnificence that is the Hump Mountains. I consider this trip to be a best hike, and think you will too.
 

Here is a video my brother Dave put together of our adventure to the Hump Mountains.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Deep in the remote southwestern corner of North Carolina where the scenic Cherohala Skyway climbs to meet Tennessee at Beech Gap, the Bob Bald Connector Trail (54A) climbs a ridge through Nantahala National Forest to Bob Stratton Bald. One of the lush mountaintop meadows the Southern Appalachians are known for, Bob Bald as it is called, straddles a boundary between Citico Creek Wilderness and Joyce Kilmer-Slickrock Wilderness. During the green seasons Bob puts on a dazzling display of wildflowers with a remarkable array of colors that rival any other of the region’s garden spots. If you want to extend your hike, a web of trails take off from Stratton Bald enabling you to explore the wilderness territories and Unicoi Mountains that surround you. I met a group of Tennessee hiking friends on Sunday, July 26, 2015 for my first hike in this area. We started about 10:45AM and finished at 3:45PM. Our plan was to climb the Bob Bald Connector Trail to Bob Stratton Bald, then return. I also intended to visit the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest after leaving the group so I could witness the giant trees.

The Cherohala Skyway crosses through the Cherokee National Forest in Tennessee and the Nantahala National Forest in North Carolina. “Cherohala” comes from the names of the two National Forests: “Chero” from the Cherokee and “hala” from the Nantahala. Located in southeast Tennessee and southwest North Carolina, the Skyway connects Tellico Plains, TN, with Robbinsville, NC, and is about 40 miles in length. Elevations range from 900 feet at the Tellico River in Tennessee to over 5,400 feet near the state line at Haw Knob. It’s a delightful way to start your day whichever state you’re coming from.

There are several overlooks along the Skyway that offer photographic opportunities as well as trailheads for exploring the surrounding mountains and wildernesses. Most of these are labelled with a name and a sign, but the trailhead for this hike is not. The trailhead is between the two state line welcome signs at a place called Beech Gap. If you are coming from the NC side, it is on your right, the next pullout after the Benton MacKaye Trail crosses the road. This pullout is a forest service road with a gate, and there is room for 4-5 cars to park.

I was delighted to be meeting up with a great group of folks from Tennessee that I hiked with a couple times last winter, and I was excited to be exploring what was completely new territory for me. Despite having lived in WNC for a decade, I just hadn’t made it yet to this very farthest corner of the state. I’ve always wanted to, since hearing of the giant trees found in Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest. Serendipitously, I had even purchased a trail map only a couple weeks before. So when I was asked if I wanted to come, I jumped at the chance.

For the first two miles of this hike you’re on Forest Road 217H, passing along a ridge that demarcates Cherokee and Nantahala National Forests. On your left is Cherokee as well as Citico Creek Wilderness, and on your right is Nantahala. The road is lined in July with stunning bee balm, a native wildflower also known a monarda. We were treated to white ones, crimson ones, purple, and maroon. The name is certainly appropriate as the constant buzz made us aware of the bees getting drunk on nectar.

The forest road is on such a gradual decline that you hardly notice it. However, you will notice it on the way back when you are going uphill instead. There are low spots in the road where puddles and mud collect. Otherwise, it is a comfortable trail, one that meanders through dense hardwood forest. Eventually the road dead ends, and a series of trails fan out from the cul-de-sac.

This is the trail junction at the end of Forest Road 217H. The trail for this hike is the one on the right, labelled 54A, and named the Bob Bald Connector Trail.

Now it’s time to climb. For the next two miles the trail gains more than 800 feet. There are occasional brief level stretches along the way, but if you just grit your teeth and prepare for the exertion, it will be over in about an hour. In the meantime, enjoy all the wonderful sights like massive chicken of the woods fungus and clusters of turks cap lilies. Ferns dominate each side of the trail, and this time of year they are bright, bright green.

The single-track trail gets considerably more narrow the higher you get… some due to the terrain, and some to the plants encroaching on the tread. As summer continues to progress, many of the berry-type plants make themselves known including carrion plant and witch hobble. The snake root was in abundance as well. About two thirds of the way up you will pass through a dense and dark rhododendron tunnel.

There are more rocks and roots too, so with the combination of overgrowth and tripping hazards, watch your step. An occasional seep will be enough to give your pooch a drink, but probably won’t refill your bottle. Speaking of our furry little friends, it was nice to once again have Cowboy the Australian cattle dog along to keep us all in line.

You can tell when you are almost to the top when you see tall grass along each side of the trail. It is spreading from the bald and is a nice signal that things are about to get exciting. You will first pop out of the woods to a small meadow on your right with a picturesque view of the Unicoi Mountains. There were hundreds of blooming phlox, a mere sampling of what was yet to come.

As we marched about another hundred yards we reached the true mountaintop, a broad open expanse of grassland that was awash in a radiant fuschia glow. This was the largest field of phlox I had ever witnessed! Tens of thousands of these beautiful native wildflowers filled the senses. Add to that hundreds of turks cap lilies for quite an array of color. Gretchen even found a teeny, tiny club spur orchid hiding deep within the mountain grass.

Marti and Gretchen entering Bob Bald, an ideal setting for an Appalachian version of The Sound of Music.

There are blueberries on Bob Stratton Bald too. They were still a month away from being ripe, but it looked like a healthy crop of the sweet tasting morsels. The elevation here is above 5,300′ and a delightful summer breeze kept us nice and cool as we found a semi-circle of logs to sit and have lunch. Off to the north are the massive shoulders of the Unicoi Mountains, and to the east the tall dead trunk of an oak with a rope dangling from the top. We called this the Hangman’s Tree. That’s the picture at the top of this post.

The bald is named for Robert Stratton (1825-1864), whose family lived there in the mid-19th century. Bob’s father John Stratton (1799–1862) settled in the area now known as Stratton Meadows (atop the main crest of the Unicois near where Cherohala Skyway crosses the state line) in the 1830s. Bob eventually moved a few miles north of Stratton Meadows to the mountain that now bears his name.

While on Bob Stratton Bald you are in the Joyce Kilmer-Slickrock Wilderness, designated in 1975 and totalling 17,394 acres. There are other pathways that reach the bald within the wilderness including from Wolf Laurel where the Bob Stratton Trail climbs up from the east, and another that climbs Fork Ridge from Swan Cabin. The Fodderstack Trail continues northward for several more miles along the state line to Big Fodderstack Mountain.

Guarding the north edge of the bald is a beautiful stand of fraser fir that was planted decades ago when the woolly adelgid first began to pillage the fir and hemlock in the Great Smoky Mountains. So far (knock on wood) these have avoided that nasty fate. We hated to leave Bob Stratton Bald. There are times when you are fortunate enough to be at a place on the perfect day for a seasonal display. That seemed to be the case for us on this day with the sensational natural garden.

We had a great memory to take with us as we returned the way we had come. The connector trail actually seemed steeper on the way down, so be aware of the potential wear and tear. Remember too, that some of the forest road goes gently uphill, so if you are tired you’ll notice it. On the way back I talked with some of the others about how to find the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest. I wanted to see the big poplars. As it turns out, it was quite easy and best of all, right along the way.

When we got back to Beech Gap I said a fond farewell to my Tennessee hiking partners with a promise to get together again soon. I drove down the Cherohala Skyway to the entrance, then took a left. From there it is only two miles to the memorial forest.

This forest is one of the Nation’s most impressive remnants of old growth. The woods contains magnificent examples of more than 100 tree species, many over 400-years-old, and some more than 20 feet in circumference and 100 feet tall.

This 3,800-acre forest was set aside in 1936 as a memorial to the author of the poem “Trees,” Joyce Kilmer, who was killed in action in France during World War I. This forest, part of the Joyce Kilmer-Slick Rock Wilderness, is maintained in its primitive state. The only way to see the forest is on foot. A 2-mile trail leads to the Joyce Kilmer Memorial and loops through the giant trees. Unfortunately, there aren’t as many as there were when the memorial was founded. The immense American chestnuts were the first to succumb to blight, and the hemlocks have most recently been devastated by the woolly adelgid. Only the big tulip poplars remain.

On the long drive back home I had plenty of time to reflect on this wonderful day. I have no doubt I will be back to this corner of Western North Carolina many times. It is quite a long way from my home, so it may be better with overnights included in the future. The Cheoah Ranger Station for Nantahala National Forest is right along the way west of Robbinsville.

There is still so much to see and do. I only began to scratch the surface of this remote region of wildernesses. I passed literally dozens of trailheads right off the roads to and from. If you live in Eastern Tennessee, Western North or South Carolina, or North Georgia or Alabama, I highly recommend you get a trail map that includes Joyce Kilmer-Slickrock Wilderness and Citico Creek Wilderness. Then, get out there.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Surrounded on three sides by Cherokee National Forest, Tennessee’s Martha Sundquist State Forest is the only one in the state forest system with a dedicated hiking trail. The Tennessee Gulf Trail (named for a former owner of the property, Lambs Gulf Company) follows Brown Gap Creek from the northwestern to the southeastern corners of this 2,000 acre cove hardwood forest. Martha Sundquist, an outdoors enthusiast and former First Lady of Tennessee, suggested that the state forest bearing her name include a footpath for hikers. We’re certainly glad she did. The easy, rhododendron-lined 3.3 mile trail was opened in 2010 and is very well maintained. We were lucky to find a couple inches of snow lingering on the ground, only enhancing the already lovely scene, as we explored the Tennessee Gulf Trail on Sunday, February 8, 2015 between 9:30AM and 1:45PM. Our plan was to start at the lower, northwestern trailhead and hike to the upper, southeastern end, then return the same way.

There are three different seasonal photo galleries at the bottom of this trail report.

When you reach the first sign board at the entrance to Martha Sundquist State Forest you have a choice to make. Start hiking the Tennessee Gulf Trail from the lower trailhead, or continue up Gulf Road another 2.9 miles to the upper trailhead. We chose the former. To get to the lower trailhead, take the access road left of the sign board. It’s about 100 yards to a creek crossing. You can park at the crossing, then walk over the creek on a footlog, or you can ford the creek in your vehicle and park on the other side. Look for blue blaze marks on the north end of the parking loop to begin the trail.

Dave and I drove from WNC to meet the same Eastern Tennessee folks we had hiked with a few weeks prior at the False Gap manway in the Smokies. There were a couple of absences and a couple additions, so we had the same size group of nine. We also had two pooches along for the trip as well. Grace, Dave’s black-and-tan hound, and Cowboy, the always-busy cattle dog. As it turned out, we would be the only ones in the state forest on this bright, sunny February Sunday.

Just moments after beginning the hike we had to cross a footlog over Brown Gap Creek that was covered with snow and ice on this chilly morning. At least 40-feet long, this footlog was a challenge for hikers and canines alike. Apparently at one time in his past, Cowboy had taken a nasty fall from an icy footlog, so he instead chose to swim the creek. Brrrr!

But he came out no worse for wear, ready to herd all the intrepid hikers, and continue up the forest road. If you ford Brown Gap Creek in your vehicle, you can drive an additional half mile up this road to a gate to shave that distance off your hike. We didn’t mind walking the road. At the gate, the well-signed trail takes off to the right. It starts out in a northeasterly direction then makes a swooping turn to the southeast and maintains that direction to the other end as it follows Brown Gap Creek.

This 2,000 acre tract of land was purchased in 2001 from International Paper Company (formerly Champion International), who owned the property since about 1930. Prior to that it belonged to Lambs Gulf Company. Located in Cocke County near the North Carolina-Tennessee border, it is 70 miles east of Knoxville. The Martha Sundquist State Forest “Gulf Tract” is surrounded by Cherokee National Forest on three sides.

The forest is composed of mature mountain and cove hardwoods. A harvest rotation schedule was developed and followed closely by the previous owners and large stream-side management zones, some as large as 80 acres, have been established. This tract is considered a wildlife management area and has special provisions for seasonal bear hunting. It will be used primarily for recreation, hunting, fishing, timber production, and demonstration.

Once you are on the blue-blazed single track trail, you’re surrounded by rhododendron and magnolia, birch, white pine and maple trees. Throw in the occasional very large hemlock, and this is a beautiful forest. Because of the cold, the rhodos had that droopy, winter appearance. After crossing a 2nd footlog we encountered two inches of snow on the trail. We certainly weren’t expecting that. It was a very nice touch though, enhancing the already appealing scene.

In general, I’m not a big fan of snow. Under certain conditions though, it can really enhance a hiking adventure. The two inches we encountered on the Tennessee Gulf Trail was just right to make this budding ground cedar even more beautiful. The snow was still a little crusty as we started in the cold, but by afternoon it was beginning to get slushy and melt.

The trail stays on the west side of Brown Gap Creek for most of its length, but it does reach 3rd and 4th footlog crossings. These tulip poplar footlog bridges are named for area volunteers who were instrumental in the development and building of the Tennessee Gulf Trail. By the time we reached the 3rd crossing, Cowboy was evidently tired of the cold water, so he mustered his bravery and successfully navigated the narrow log. After that, he was good on the footlogs the rest of the day.

About two-thirds of the way through the hike, we reached some of those management zones mentioned above. Two other creeks come in from the east to meet Brown Gap. At these confluences of Laurel Creek and Middle Prong, the foresters have cleared the area of timber, leaving only the low-lying heath and ground cover. I don’t know what the camping regulations are in the state forest, but there are a few sites here that would be ideal for a tent, or a family picnic.

In fact, the trail builders did a marvelous job of keeping the pathway near Brown Gap Creek. We found ourselves pausing frequently, simply to enjoy the natural beauty of the babbling stream. There were only two places where the trail had to climb above the creek to navigate the terrain, and both of those only lasted a couple hundred yards.

The final quarter mile to the upper (southern) trailhead is gently uphill. You come out on Gulf Road. We were all ready for lunch, so it would have been nice if there were some logs or boulders nearby to use as seats. Instead we walked up the road a ways, crossed the creek again, and found a sunny spot along the side of the road.

No more than 10 miles to the east, the Martha Sundquist tract is near Max Patch, a popular mountaintop bald along the Appalachian Trail in North Carolina’s Pisgah National Forest. The Tennessee Gulf Trail is the first phase of a trail project that will eventually connect the State Forest to the Appalachian Trail.

Starting at Max Patch, hikers will follow an old road through Cherokee National Forest to Martha Sundquist State Forest. After following the Tennessee Gulf Trail, the route will ascend through Brown Gap to the Appalachian Trail and then loop back to the parking area at Max Patch. This connector will be constructed by the U.S. Forest Service.

While we hiked the length of the Tennessee Gulf Trail, the air temperature warmed nearly 25 degrees. So on the way back, the snow was becoming slushy, and was even completely melted in some spots like this one. The dog hobble that lined the trail was literally glistening.

The return is back the way you came. Obviously, you could walk back on Gulf Road, but who wants to do that when you can follow a soothing creek side path. As the morning became afternoon, we were all shedding jackets and other layers, and the brilliant sunshine warmed our faces. It seemed we all had a separate pace as we each enjoyed the forest and creek in our own way. So we got kinda scattered. We would usually group back up at the creek crossings and make sure everyone was accounted for.

I got a great kick out of watching Cowboy perform what he was bred for. He would be running back and forth along the trail herding all the hikers to make sure we were all in line. Once he had done his job, he would herd the nearest rock, or stick. Cowboy was one busy, and fun dog. I bet he slept really well that night.

To summarize, I highly recommend Martha Sundquist State Forest. You could almost call it a secret. This little-known recreation area is remarkably beautiful. The Tennessee Division of Forestry has done a wonderful job on the Tennessee Gulf Trail, and at managing the forest within the boundary. There are three other mile-long loop trails that take off from the Gulf Road within the state forest tract, and, there is a nine-mile horse trail. I know I want to go back to Martha Sundquist, especially in Spring to enjoy the wildflowers, so I may give these shorter trails a try too.

Update May 8, 2015: When I hiked Martha Sundquist State Forest last winter, I told myself I would come back in spring. A visit from my brother in early May seemed like a great time to do just that. The trail was considerably different three months later as you will see from the following new pictures.

Update November 5, 2017: A visit to Martha Sundquist State Forest in the Fall seemed in order. Unfortunately I was 7-10 days late to enjoy peak coloring. Still, as always, the Tennessee Gulf Trail is a delight, and the surrounding countryside did offer some hints of chromatic goodness. If you haven’t yet been to Martha Sundquist, what are you waiting for?

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park may have wider name recognition, but at 655,598 acres, the Cherokee National Forest is Tennessee’s largest tract of public land.

The forest is split into two sections along the Tennessee-North Carolina line north and south of the Smokies. When organizers of this weekend’s Wilderness Weekend began brainstorming ways to celebrate the upcoming 50th anniversary of the Wilderness Act, they knew they wanted to showcase the various and sundry benefits that the Cherokee National Forest provides in terms of outdoor recreation and tourism.

They found the perfect platform in Tellico Plains, otherwise known as “The Little Town with the Big Back Yard.” Located in the mountains of Monroe County, Tellico Plains lies at the doorstep of some of the most celebrated natural wonders at the south end of the Cherokee National Forest. With the Cherohala Skyway Visitor Center in Tellico Plains as headquarters, this weekend’s “Tellico Wild: Explore Our Big Back Yard” has exceeded its organizers’ expectations.

Tennessee Wild, a nonprofit dedicated to protecting wilderness areas on the Cherokee National Forest, is hosting the event. Interpretive hikes will be led by various experts. On Saturday there’s going to be a 2.5-mile hike along the Unicoi Turnpike that was part of Trail of Tears and later became the first toll road in America.

Get details here…