Starting at the former site of George Vanderbilt’s Buck Spring hunting lodge near Mt. Pisgah, this hike crosses the summit of Little Bald Mountain before dropping down the watershed to Pilot Rock, one of the many plutons found within the Pisgah Ranger District. The high country is home to thickets of mountain laurel and rhododendron, while various maples, oaks and pines line the trail as you near Pilot Rock. Ken and I took this picturesque trek on Wednesday, October 19, 2016 beginning at 9:30AM and ending about 1:45PM. Our plan was to take Buck Spring Trail to its meeting with Pilot Rock Trail, visit the pluton, then return to the Laurel Mountain Trail for the finish.

We have previously hiked to Pilot Rock from below. We thought we would try it from above this time. This is one of those oddball trails where the namesake is halfway through the journey.

This hike starts at the Buck Spring Overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway. It’s a simple 500 foot walk from there to the former site of George Vanderbilt’s hunting lodge. Vanderbilt was the wealthy builder and owner of the Biltmore Estate in Asheville. Vanderbilt also kept 471 acres in Buck Springs Gap, about a mile from Pisgah Inn.

Here, Vanderbilt had constructed his popular log hunting lodge. The main lodge had four bedrooms, a breezeway-connected building had two bedroom suites, and the kitchen/dining building was connected to the other two. The site also included a spring house, the stone remnants of which are still visible at the site today. The lodge and outbuildings were razed in 1961 to make room for the Blue Ridge Parkway.

A magnificent view of the lowlands of Pisgah National Forest awaits you from the cliff at the edge of Buck Spring Gap. The downward descent of the ridge of Laurel Mountain marks one of the many pathways that dot this beautiful area. We continued on white-blazed Buck Spring Trail up and over Little Bald Mountain, a short climb to the summit at 5,256 feet.

From that point, it is now a steady descent over 2.5 miles to Pilot Rock 1,300 feet below. Not far below the summit, Buck Spring Trail meets Pilot Rock Trail. The blaze color changes to orange. This trail passes through both mountain laurel and rhododendron forests, much of it very large and mature. Perhaps some of these thickets were even growing when George Vanderbilt was here in the late 19th century. A good portion of the upper reaches of Pilot Rock Trail are under a canopy of these thickets.

Vistas are mostly obscured by trees during the green season, but viewing is better when the leaves are down. Also, look for the occasional rocky outcrop that may offer a glimpse into the wide beyond.

About half way down the fall line, the forest changes from heath to hardwood. Some of the deciduous trees were displaying brilliant crimson and gold colorings on this day in mid-October. The color seemed to be best on the north side of the ridge.

Also, about half way down the trail gets very rocky. You’re entering pluton country. Over the millenia, the granite and shale at this elevation has broken up creating plenty of stumbling hazards for hikers and mountain bikers. Most riders will be carrying their bikes in this area between 4,500 and 3,900 feet.

This view of Pilot Mountain in the distance is one of the few open vistas available along the descent of Pilot Rock Trail.

The descent gets a little steeper and switchbacks become the order of the day. There are more than a dozen. We passed a couple of hikers resting on an outcrop at one of these switchbacks, something we also did later on our way back up.

As we approached Pilot Rock the oaks and maples were really in color now. As you descend the trail, the rock face of Pilot Rock will be on your left. The angle of the open rock is extremely steep. If it is at all wet, especially icy, you probably don’t even want to get on it. It’s a long way down if you slip. Fortunately for us, this day was totally dry.

The views are magnificent. Straight down below you is the route taken by Forest Road 1206, also known as Yellow Gap Road, one of the most popular points of entry into Pisgah Ranger District. Spread out directly ahead is the entire expanse of the Cradle of Forestry, with 6,000 foot peaks on the horizon. The ribbon of the Blue Ridge Parkway cuts across Pisgah Ridge to your right. It was all alight with Autumn hues.

It’s a great place for lunch, but make sure all your gear is secure. I wrapped my pack strap around a low-lying blueberry bush stem to keep it from rolling down the pluton. As we munched on delicious burritos provided by Ken’s wife, we surmised how much stuff is probably laying in the woods directly below the face of Pilot Rock. There are probably entire packs down there, and cellphones, probably trekking poles too.

While we were eating and enjoying the view, a pair of bike riders meandered by. As one of them walked down the rock to say hi, the cleats on his clip-on riding shoes slipped dangerously on the steep rock face. Uh-oh. He managed to catch himself, but decided quickly that wasn’t a good idea and retreated to the safety of the trail. It is steep folks, so be very careful.

After about a half hour enjoying the fabulous view and the gorgeous weather, Ken and I were ready to tackle the climb back up. We took our time, resting occasionally. Once you clear the rocky area it becomes a lot easier.

We decided to mix things up a little on the way back, so we took the Laurel Mountain Connector over to Laurel Mountain Trail rather than returning up and over Little Bald Mountain. The half-mile-long connector trail skirts the east side of the summit of Little Bald.

Once we joined the blue-blazed Laurel Mountain Trail, we were back on the north side of the ridge, and the fall colors burst forth once again. This stretch of LMT back to Buck Spring Overlook is one large watershed. It is full of springs and other drainage that make the roots and boulders loose and slippery. Watch your step.

There are hundreds of little nooks and crannies beneath the large granite boulders that litter the hillside, likely home to all kinds of critters, with and without legs. Moist, bright green moss covers much of the rock, and galax is abundant beside the trail.

About a quarter mile from Buck Spring Overlook, Laurel Mountain Trail rejoins Buck Spring Trail for the final stroll back to the overlook. The parking area is shared with those hiking the Mt. Pisgah Trail, so if you still have some energy left you might want to consider that one too.

In summary, this is a hike of moderate difficulty that will give you a good workout and wonderful views of Pisgah National Forest from Pilot Rock. My favorite season for this hike is Fall because of the colors, but it is also very nice in Spring when the mountain laurel and rhododendron are in bloom. It’s hard to do in winter because access from the Blue Ridge Parkway is usually closed, but you can still get to Pilot Rock from below off of Yellow Gap Road. Give this one a try. I think you’ll like it.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

There’s a trail from Scenic Hwy 276 that parallels the Blue Ridge Parkway as it winds around 10 ridges and makes 13 easy stream crossings on its way to the Pisgah Inn on the Parkway. Buck Spring Trail eventually ends up at the site of the former hunting lodge of George W. Vanderbilt II, the father of Pisgah National Forest. In the spring this trail is alive with abundant wildflowers and songbirds. When the leaves are down in winter, it offers views of the Cradle of Forestry National Historic Site in the valley below. This hike occurred on Tuesday, March 11, 2014 beginning at 10:00AM and ending about 3:05PM. Our plan was to take the Buck Spring Trail from Hwy 276 to Pisgah Inn, then return.

Most people who do this trail start at Pisgah Inn and hike east to west. However, in winter when the Blue Ridge Parkway is closed, you can’t get to the inn. So we took it from west to east. The pullout on Hwy 276 at the trailhead is a mile and a half past the Forest Discovery Center, on the right. There is enough room for four cars, which shouldn’t really ever be a problem, except perhaps on a weekend during leaf peeping season.

Right off the bat, the trail drops almostt 100 feet, so remember that at the tail end of the hike. You will finish with a climb back to your car. Otherwise, Buck Spring Trail is an almost flat stroll through ever-changing forest. It’s actually gaining elevation, about 400 feet over five miles, but the ascent is so gradual that you can’t even notice it. Be prepared though, for the last mile to the Inn. That’s when the trail steepens to climb the remaining 700 feet.

There are a number of small stream crossings along this trek. None are really problematic, as long as you pay attention and watch your step. Mostly you’re rock hopping, so just don’t be dumb and try to be too cute. Listen to Meanderthals — we know from experience. The first two crossings are the west and east forks of Bearwallow Branch, and the east fork has a picturesque small waterfall tucked away in an alcove.

At the 1.2 mile mark the famous Mountains to Sea Trail will come down the hill from the left. From this point on, the two trails are merged and the blaze marks are the traditional white of the MtS. Then it’s across another stream and just another two-tenths to a 2nd trail junction — this one the Barnett Branch Trail. You can follow Barnett Branch all the way to Pink Beds if you choose.

Soon after the trail junction are the two forks of Barnett Branch itself. These are two of the widest of the crossings. You know that wherever there are stream crossings, there will soon be ridge roundings. The Buck Spring Trail ultimately makes 13 crossings and rounds 10 ridges. All of this drainage ends up in Mills River and the Cradle of Forestry below. The last of the named crossings is called Poplar Creek. Then I guess they got tired of giving them names because there are so many.

An advantage of hiking Buck Spring Trail in winter is the ability to see through the forest. As you progress from ridge to ridge, you will see sights along the Blue Ridge Parkway directly to your north and above, as well as landmarks off in the distance southward. Among them are the fire and communications towers on Fryingpan Mountain, and the massive granite face of Pilot Rock.

The foliage surrounding you also makes some serious changes, from a mostly hardwood forest of beech and poplar, oak and birch on the western end of the trail, to pockets of thick mountain laurel and rhododendron. There is one spot where the rhododendron is so mature that the trunks are 4-5 inches in diameter and the thickets are so dense that you could get lost for days. It’s a perfect spot for a campsite, one that is protected by the laurels from the wind. That’s the photo at the top of this post. Click it for a larger image.

You will find yourself often walking through a green tunnel. The laurels are so prevalent that they have formed a canopy above the trail. Especially during the bloom seasons in May and June, this area is remarkable for the succulent blossoms and wonderful aromas that permeate your senses, not to mention the songbirds. Our little feathered friends love this area above the Pink Beds and Cradle of Forestry. Who wouldn’t? It’s a great place to hang out.

Somewhere near the 5 mile mark, the trail turns decidedly north and the ascent gets steeper. Not so much at first, but about the time you begin to see the Pisgah Inn on the precipice above you, the climb to the Parkway begins. There are three dramatic and long switchbacks. The first goes from north to east, the second is a hairpin from east to west, and the final one another hairpin from south to north. It’s a hefty push to reach the top, but once you do, seemingly the whole of the Blue Ridge opens up before you.

The Mt. Pisgah area has been a popular resort destination for a number of years. The first Pisgah Inn opened about 1919. This rustic old Inn was a welcome journey’s end for thousands of travelers escaping from the heat of the lowlands in the summer. Development of the modern Pisgah Inn began in the early 1960’s. The Blue Ridge Parkway through the Mt. Pisgah area opened for travel in the mid-60’s. The present Pisgah Inn was built in 1964. It normally operates from April 1 to October 31.

From the front of the inn you can see Mt. Pisgah, the namesake. The Blue Ridge Parkway winds between the inn and the mountain. Buck Spring Trail actually continues beyond the inn another mile to the former location of George Vanderbilt’s Buck Spring Hunting Lodge. From there you can hop on a trail to the summit of Mt. Pisgah.

The back of the inn looks out over the Blue Ridge. Directly below is the substantial forested valley of the Cradle of Forestry National Historic Site, including Pink Beds. Due east is the long ridge of Laurel Mountain and to the southeast is Pilot Rock. To the southwest the Blue Ridge Parkway winds its merry way from ridge to ridge as it hugs and caresses the WNC high country.

It’s great to be here off season because you have the place all to yourself. You can sit on the deck of what is the restaurant in summer and imagine dining with Vanderbilt and Clingman, or Schenck and Pinchot. There are no car sounds on the Parkway because it is almost always closed from December thru March. We even managed to come on a day when the breeze was down, so we weren’t pestered by nearly always present wind.

The return is the same way you came. Remember that you are six miles out, so by the time you finish you have 12 long miles on your boots, a pretty darn lengthy day hike. About half way back it began taking a toll on me, not so much with fatigue, but more with boredom. I even commented to my companion that this might be a really boring hike in the summer because you wouldn’t be able to see anything. Just mile after mile after mile of green forest. Don’t get me wrong. I like forest hikes as much as the next guy, but 12 miles of it isn’t particularly exciting.

About a mile from the finish we encountered a group of five other hikers who looked to perhaps be college students on spring break. Not long after that we saw three tents pitched in the woods that weren’t there when we started. Apparently the hiking group arrived after us, setup camp, and then hit the trail for a hike.

At the end, we had that final hundred foot climb back to Hwy 276. We completed the hike in just a little over five hours, a pretty good pace for 12 miles, and another indicator that this is mostly a flat, easy trail. Really the only breaks we took were one for lunch, some time at Pisgah Inn, and the occasional photograph.

To summarize, if you like multi-forest hikes, then you would probably enjoy Buck Spring Trail. There are typical WNC hardwoods, lots of laurel and rhododendron, and even some spruce as you near the Blue Ridge Parkway. The trail is very easy to hike, and not at all strenuous until you get close to Pisgah Inn. This is definitely a four season hike. Even in the dead of winter with snow on the trail, it would still be easy to follow. You wouldn’t be able to start at the Pisgah Inn end because of the Parkway, but the road crews do a nice job of keeping 276 clear and accessible.

Update July 20, 2016: How about a summertime visit to this ridge hugging trail? There isn’t much to see of the mountains with the tree canopy in full force, so I focused my camera at ground level. What do you think?

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.