Think of Wilson Creek as Linville Gorge lite. A long, rugged wilderness gorge running from the nearly 6000′ mountain peaks at its north, Wilson Creek shares many similarities with its bigger brother to the west. Wilson Creek was named a National Wild and Scenic River in August, 2000. The gorge area is a haven for recreation including hiking of course, but also fun for kayaking, camping, fishing, tubing, you get the picture. There are dozens of trails throughout the recreation area, including this one that follows the upper reaches of the gorge for six miles. Much of this region is backcountry, so the trail can be confusing. This is one of those hikes where map and compass are your friends. Don’t leave home without them. This hike occurred on Wednesday, October 10, 2012 from 9:30am to 11:30am. My plan was to start at the trailhead for Wilson Creek Trail #258 and go for a couple hours.

It was a gorgeous morning as I drove north from Morganton to the Wilson Creek Wild and Scenic River area. As I turned onto Brown Mountain Beach Road, the early sun was striking Smyrna Baptist Church just right, so I stopped for a picture. The congregation must be very proud of their church. The maintenance is immaculate. Further down the road, I entered farm and horse country and stopped for a few more pictures. This was going to be a nice day.

So I drove past the Wilson Creek Visitor Center on Brown Mountain Beach Road and I kept driving util I reached Hwy 90 then turned left. I passed Mortimer campground and reached a sign that said it was the end of Hwy 90. But Edgemont Road continued straight ahead, so I kept looking for the trailhead for the Wilson Creek Trail. The road began to climb steeply, switchback after switchback, and still no trailhead.

Stopping every 5 minutes or so to check my map, looking for any kind of landmark, I was still clueless about where the trailhead might be. Eventually I reached the height of land and started down the other side. Realizing this couldn’t be right, I turned around to make another pass at finding the trailhead.

Finally, there was a small place on the side of the road with enough room for a car, maybe two, and it almost looked like there was a worn path heading off into the woods. So I parked, headed down the path a bit, and guess what… I found a blaze mark. So this was a trail! On my map, the White Rocks Trail #264 is designated with an orange blaze. The blaze I had seen was orange. This was another way to access the Wilson Creek Trail, so I put on my pack and camera.

Much as I discovered the day before when I went to Harper Creek Falls, the trails in this area are not very well marked. There was no trailhead sign that I could find anywhere. I found more orange blazes as I continued farther down the trail, but they were worn and barely visible.

Not long into the hike, I happened upon some slabs of granite that I assume gave the trail its name. I could barely make out some high ridges in the distance through the trees. There may be some nice views along this trail in winter. After a quarter mile, or less, the trail begins a descent along Crusher Branch, frequently traversing right through the middle of the stream. This trail doesn’t get much use. It is overgrown and eroded from being so close to the creek bed. The fallen leaves didn’t help much either with being able to identify the path. I kept my eyes closely peeled.

Another quarter mile down, the trail clears Crusher Branch and continues a steeper descent through a mixed forest of hardwoods and evergreens. Beware of false trails. I encountered a few, but generally kept a downward and westerly direction. The occasional very dim orange blaze helped. Sounds of rushing water get louder as you approach Wilson Creek at the bottom of the drainage. It’s 470 feet of decline in 0.8 mile from the White Rocks trailhead to Wilson Creek.

The Wilson Creek Trail #258 comes in from the south and continues along the bank northward into the designated Wild and Scenic Area. The total length is six miles. Where the White Rocks Trail meets Wilson Creek is about two miles up the trail. I didn’t have time to hike the full length, but I intended to go a mile or so upstream until I found a nice place for pictures and lunch.

My map indicated that the Wilson Creek Trail had no blaze markings, however, I began seeing blue blazes. So I pulled out the map again to see if I could possibly be in a totally different place, but decided this had to be trail #258. Perhaps they blazed the trail since my 3-year-old map was printed. Funny thing, after 200 yards I never saw another blaze.

The trail itself varies from wide and clear along the east bank, to rock scrambling in the creek bed. Fallen leaves again made it difficult to follow in places, but as long as I kept the creek to my left how could I go wrong? Some places the vegetation along the creek bank is so thick that the trail passes 20 yards away. The occasional granite outcrop will require a brief climb up and over to continue along your merry way.

It was pretty evident to me that the water level in Wilson Creek was considerably lower than normal, not unusual for October. That certainly helped on those occasions when the trail actually dipped into the creek bed and was a hop, skip and jump from rock to rock. Many of the stones are well worn and rounded from centuries of smoothing by the rushing water.

I found a spot about a mile upstream from the trail junction where a large granite slab adorned the creek bed. This looked like lunch. I could see a hundred yards up and downstream, so this would be nice for pictures too. The photo at the top of this post came from here. Click for a larger image if you like. I felt very alone. This area is extremely secluded, definitely wilderness. It was wonderful.

The forest was just beginning its autumnal array and the sky was that crisp Carolina blue. The water in Wilson Creek was crystal clear and fresh, with sun rays blinking and shimmering as it trickled across the cobbles. There was just enough of a breeze to loosen the chromatic leaves for a twisting glide on the currents, and a new home on the forest floor. This is why I hike.

Lunch was good too. I stayed for about half an hour simply enjoying the best nature has to offer. Re-energized, it was time to work my way back to the White Rocks Trail. That 400+ foot climb back up out of the gorge went quicker than I expected. On the way down I was thinking how the return would be a bit strenuous, but the beauty I found on Wilson Creek carried me back up Crusher Branch without a second thought. I reached my car in seemingly less time than it took to get down.

On the way back down the mountain, I continued to look for the Wilson Creek Trailhead, but never did see it. Until the next time I visit this area, its location will remain a mystery to me. I definitely want to hike the full length of the Wilson Creek Trail some day, so I’ll have another chance to find that trailhead.

On this day, I went back past the Visitor Center and then began to stop at pullouts on Brown Mountain Beach Road. There are wooden stairs and railings that go down from the road into the gorge for the fishermen, swimmers, and the curious like me. I spent close to an hour just enjoying the disparate scenes in the gorge and taking photos to remember the day. You can view many of them in the latter half of the gallery below.

I enjoyed the two days spent in Wilson Creek Gorge. There are dozens more trails to explore than the few that I took on. Turned out I was probably about ten days too early to catch peak leaf peeping season, but I’ll make note of that for future opportunities. This hike didn’t go exactly as planned because I substituted White Rocks Trail, but that worked out fine. While not as spectacular as Linville Gorge, Wilson Creek still has a lot to offer and is definitely less crowded. My only complaint would be the poor trail markings. It’s too easy to get lost. However, don’t let that deter you from a nice wilderness experience. Just be sure to have a map and compass.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

One of the highlights of the Wilson Creek Wild and Scenic River area is Harper Creek Falls. Located in the Grandfather Mountain Ranger District of Pisgah National Forest, this three-tiered falls is a fun place to swim, slide and dive — but the rugged terrain makes for a difficult and dangerous access. The Harper Creek Trail is easy enough. With the exception of a 200 foot ascent from the trailhead, most of this trail follows Harper Creek as it makes its way through the wilderness to an appointment with Wilson Creek. Once you reach the falls, be prepared for a very steep rope descent across extremely slick granite to the plunge pool. This hike occurred on Tuesday, October 9, 2012 from 11:30am to 1:15pm. My plan was to seek Harper Creek Falls on forest trail #260, the Harper Creek Trail. Little did I know what I was getting myself into.

Locals certainly know about the excellent recreational opportunities that Wilson Creek Wild and Scenic River offers. If you live more than a couple hours away, though, for name recognition Wilson Creek plays second fiddle to its more famous neighbor to the west, Linville Gorge. The Wilson Creek Gorge isn’t quite as spectacular from a scenic perspective, but it stands right up there with some of the best rugged wilderness terrain to be found in Western North Carolina.

Wilson Creek is north of Morganton, NC. Plan on taking about 45 minutes to get from Morganton to the Wilson Creek area. Hwy 181 North takes you to Brown Mountain Beach Road, the primary access through Wilson Creek. Once you enter the recreation area, the road changes to graded gravel, with some single lane bridge crossings. There isn’t much there — except peace and solitude. I noticed a couple of very small camp stores, but if you are coming for an extended stay, you probably want to bring supplies and provisions with you.

If it’s your first visit to Wilson Creek, be sure to make a stop at the Visitor Center and speak with the volunteers about the adventures you can find. In addition to fabulous fishing, kayaking, tubing and family recreation, Wilson Creek is home to more than two dozen maintained trails for hiking. Some are also available for mountain bikes and equestrians. Wilson Creek was added to the National Wild and Scenic River System in August, 2000.

The Harper Creek trailhead is 1.6 miles beyond the Visitor Center on Brown Mountain Beach Road. Wilson Creek will be on your right and parking for the trail will be on the left. There is room for about 10-12 cars. The trail is designated #260 on the Grandfather Mountain Ranger District trail maps, and has orange blaze markings. You will discover, however, that most of the markings are old and nearly worn off the trees. Trail junctions are very confusing with signs and blaze that seemingly make no sense. It’s a good idea to get your bearings at the Visitor Center before you begin.

The Harper Creek Trail begins with a steep ascent to the ridge above, a climb of about 200 feet. This early climb is quite rutted and eroded, so watch your step. Once you’ve reached the ridge, take the left fork at the trail junction, down the old road bed. The red-blazed Yellow Buck Trail takes off to the right up and over Yellow Buck Mountain.

From this junction until the next, a good mile further on, Harper Creek Trail is flat and easy, following the creek with plenty of opportunities to explore the banks. There are a few small branch crossings, but nothing where you need to worry about getting your feet wet.

The forest here is quite lovely, typical for Pisgah. I noticed plenty of acorns along the trail, so the deer and bear should be happy with the mast harvest. There was also the occasional walnut, as well as the ubiquitous rhododendron along the creek bed. I was about 10 days too early to catch the peak fall foliage, but some of the birch were giving me a nice show.

The second half of the trail approaches several campsites along Harper Creek. The trail elevates about 20-30 feet above the creek with a steep climb down to the sites. There is one particular point where the trail has significantly eroded and crossing the exposed granite is a bit dicey. I went down to a couple of the campsites to take some photos of the creek. The campsites looked pretty nice, but I don’t know the extent of the foot traffic along the trail during the summer recreation season, so they may not be particularly private.

At one of the larger campsites, you will encounter the next trail junction. The Raider Camp Trail meets the Harper Creek Trail and they are both designated as part of the Mountains to Sea Trail with a white blaze. There are a couple of wooden signs, both of which indicate the trails as 440. So what to do?

This is your first confusing decision point. Despite nothing on the signs or blazes indicating where to go to Harper Creek Falls, you want to bear right, up the hill. Raider Camp Trail goes straight ahead, around a bend, and eventually crosses Harper Creek. Keep in mind, if you cross Harper Creek you are on the wrong trail. So go up the hill to the right. You will finally see both an orange and white blaze about 100 feet up.

The next quarter mile is up, not especially strenuous, but the trail is again eroded in places. Take your time, watch your step on exposed roots and rocks and you’ll be fine. A few hundred yards up, you will reach your second decision point. Here, I made a mistake. Looking at my map, and speaking with the volunteer at the Visitor Center, I was led to believe that you always stay right at trail junctions. Not so fast, my friend.

You will come to a split in the trail with two white Mountains to Sea Trail blazes, and nothing else. Neither trail says anything like “falls this way,” or has a colored blaze. So I went right, up the hill. Turns out this is the trail that eventually goes to North Harper Creek, an entirely different section of the forest with another spectacular waterfall. I didn’t realize this, though, until I had climbed probably 300 feet in elevation and could eventually see and hear Harper Creek Falls waaaayyy down below me.

So live and learn, I swallowed my pride and turned around. Apparently a lot of people make this same mistake, because on the way back I found a connector trail back to Harper Creek Trail that shortened the backtracking. Just keep in mind, when you come to the junction with the two white blazes, take the left fork to the falls.

Once back on the correct trail, it was only a short distance to Harper Creek Falls. The trail kind of dead ends, and you can make out the falls through the trees from about 60-70 feet above. Harper Creek Falls is a three-tiered cascade with two distinct plunge pools that have been carved through a massive granite gorge.

Getting down to the base of the falls is extremely dangerous. The trail is severely eroded and is basically unusable. Not to mention the last 40-50 feet is across wet and slippery granite that is so steep as to make standing impossible, much less descending. For that, there is a rope. It isn’t quite a free-fall rappel, but the granite is nearly that steep. I had to decide whether I would have the strength to pull myself back up the rope when I was done. I’m not as young as I used to be.

If I wanted to get any pictures of Harper Creek Falls, I was going to have to man-up and give this rope a go. The rope itself is about 1.5 inches in diameter, very thick and secure, but it felt quite large in my small hands… and wet. The rope was waterlogged and cold, and dripping as I began the descent. As I inched my way down, when I reached the wet portion of the granite I realized this was probably the most dangerous thing I had ever done in nearly 40 years of hiking!

Despite wearing my fancy Montrail Mountain Masochist hiking shoes with Gryptonite, that steep wet granite may as well have been ice. It took every bit of strength I had to remain upright as I lowered myself down the rope. My feet were essentially unable to assist because of the slippery nature of the wet rock face. I was operating on pure adrenaline, and amazingly enough managed to make it to the bottom without falling.

After catching my breath, I surveyed the plunge basins to see if there was another way to get out of this predicament. Much to my dismay I discovered that I would either have to go back up the rope, or swim in the cold, cold water of the pool. Well, here I was. I might as well get the photos I came for, then worry about getting back up when the time came.

I found myself at the level of the 2nd tier of Harper Creek Falls. This is the largest of the three cascades. The photo at the top of this post is the view I had of the falls. Click it for a larger image. You can decide for yourself if the view is worth the danger of the rope descent. This is a very popular swimming hole with the local teens who are a lot more limber and invincible than I. You can climb the rock and jump into the upper pool, or you can slide down the third cascade into the lower pool, but not in October. The air temp was about 55° and the water was probably less.

I stayed about 15 minutes, ate a granola bar for some energy, then decided it was time to pull myself up the rope. Hoping I wouldn’t end up stuck down there overnight, I summoned all my courage and grabbed hold. I made it about 1/3 of the way up with no problem, but then it got steeper and down I went. My feet slipped on the slick granite and I landed on my chest, but I managed to maintain my hold on the rope so I didn’t lose the progress I had already made.

I laid there for a moment, clinging to the rope, collecting my thoughts and wondering what to do next. I thought that perhaps if I simply pulled myself up the rope with my arms about five feet, I could then get another chance at grip with my feet. Sure enough, it worked. After arm climbing, I very gingerly pulled myself back up to my feet and was able to stand without slipping. Whew!

I took the remainder of the climb very carefully and managed to stay upright. When I got back to the trail, man was I grateful. I sat down and took inventory. I didn’t appear to be hurt from the fall. I didn’t seem to lose anything I was packing. I checked my pockets for car keys, and my brain for sense, and decided right then and there that if I ever came back to Harper Creek Falls I would search high and low for a better way to do this.

The hike back on the Harper Creek Trail was anti-climatic. My mind was still racing from the fear and struggle with that rope, so I hardly noticed anything on the way back. It only took me about a half hour to get back.

In summary, Harper Creek Falls is a beautiful but isolated waterfall. The trail to it is well maintained, but poorly marked. You may want to content yourself with looking at the falls through the trees from above, because there is a pretty darn good chance you might get hurt if you try to tackle that rope. Like the Meanderthals motto says, “If you are gonna be dumb, you better be tough.”

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.