Jones Gap State Park sits on the Blue Ridge Escarpment in upstate South Carolina very near the state line with its neighbor to the north. Along with Caesars Head State Park, these two share an area known as Mountain Bridge Wilderness. The Jones Gap Trail follows the Middle Saluda River from the park visitor center along an old roadway built by Solomon Jones in the 1850s. In this cove backcountry the river is quite wild with many waterfalls and rapids that add exciting sights and sounds to a pristine mountain woodland. A couple miles up from the eastern end of Jones Gap Trail is Jones Gap Falls, the destination for this hike. My brother Dave and I visited Jones Gap on February 17, 2020 beginning at 10:15am and finishing at 1:15pm. The plan was to take Jones Gap Trail up the Middle Saluda River to Jones Gap Falls and beyond, then return.

South Carolina State Parks have a voluntary $6 hiking fee, so be sure to register either at the Visitor Center or at the sign box in the parking area. It really helps with trail maintenance, something that has become an issue at Jones Gap because of incessant rain for years now.

It’s about a quarter mile stroll from the parking area at Jones Gap State Park — along the Middle Saluda River, past the Learning Center — to the eastern Jones Gap trailhead. This trail is also known as the Middle Saluda Passage of the Palmetto Trail (learn more about the Palmetto Trail here and here).

This area of Jones Gap is also an Audobon bird sanctuary and you may be fortunate enough to see a few Great Blue Herons. They tend to hang out along the river near the Visitor Center. On our earlier visit we stopped at the Learning Center and spent nearly a half hour with the park ranger talking about the history and geology of the Jones Gap area. Ranger Lee was extremely informative, and a very nice guy to boot.

Beyond the Learning Center, a foot bridge takes you across the river, past a signboard detailing all the trails in Mountain Bridge Wilderness, and onto the Jones Gap Trail. The blue-blazed trail is slightly uphill as it follows the whitewater of the wild river. When we were here a few years ago, this major trail artery up the gap was in excellent condition, perhaps a little rocky, but otherwise well taken care of. That is not the case now. Rain, year after year, has turned this trail into a sub-drainage of the river, and with it all the mud and erosion that would be expected. Unfortunately, it will be very expensive to repair the drainage problem.

There are 4-5 campsites alongside the trail and the river that make excellent vantage points for views upstream. During the green and warmer months, these sites are usually occupied, so you don’t want to infringe on their privacy. But off season, they’re good for photos of the river, and perhaps for a snack break.

An example view from one of the trailside campsites.

A little less than a mile upriver, look for red blazes bearing right onto the Rainbow Falls Trail. The Jones Gap Trail continues to the left at the junction and Rainbow Falls bears to the right. Here is the trail report, if you’re curious. But for this hike, take the left fork, blue blaze.

It is approximately another three-quarters mile from this junction to Jones Gap Falls. The trail gets decidedly steeper, climbing a few hundred feet. When you cross the river to a campground on the north side, you are almost there. Look for several nice cascades along this stretch.

You’re nearly there now. When you reach the trail sign for the falls, head uphill away from the river. It isn’t far, perhaps 70 yards. Once you clear the first rise you will know you’re there. This is a large waterfall — 50 feet in height, probably 15-20 feet wide. Because of heavy winter rain, it was flowing pretty good. Both sides of the falls are surrounded by extremely thick rhododendron. I suspect this area is a chromatic delight during bloom season.

There are some flat rocks at the base of the falls that are perfect for lunch. They are just far enough away from the falls that we didn’t get mist in the face as we put on the feed bag. We stayed for nearly a half hour for pictures, and simply to enjoy this appealing waterfall.

After getting renourished, we still had some energy, so we continued up Jones Gap Trail. You can go another four miles to the western end of Jones Gap. Here’s the trail report. But we weren’t that adventurous. We went up another quarter mile or so, found a nice cascade along the river, and discovered what I call Smiley Rock. See the photos below.

From Jones Gap Falls, the return to the Visitor Center is just a straight shot back down Jones Gap the way you came.

Summarizing, unfortunately the condition of the Jones Gap Trail has really deteriorated since my initial visit in 2012. It’s a shame too. The SC State Parks folks had done a wonderful job building it. It is certainly still passable. Just plan on getting your hiking boots muddy, and be very careful where you step. Very easy to turn an ankle, or worse. The waterfall is quite nice, well worth the effort to get there. This is one the entire family can enjoy, as long as you have appropriate footwear.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Located in the Guion Farm region of DuPont State Forest, this hike will take you to one of the lesser known, but equally memorable, of the exciting DuPont waterfalls. You are surrounded by majestic pine forest nearly throughout, with a walk along Grassy Creek for good measure. Most of the way is excellent double track surface, but that means you should listen for the sound of mountain bikes coming up behind you. Keep your eyes on the map and the markers as you will change trails several times to finish this easy loop. My brother and I hiked to Wintergreen Falls on Thursday, January 23, 2020 beginning at 11:00AM and finishing about 1:50PM. Our plan was take Tarklin Branch and Wintergreen Falls trails to the waterfall, then return on Sandy Trail, Thomas Cemetery Trail, and Buckhorn Road.

Start in the south corner of the large Guion Farm parking area and head in a generally south direction on Tarklin Branch Trail, proceeding alongside a large meadow and into a mature pine forest. On sunny days, this transition from wide open spaces to dark canopy may take a moment for your eyes to adjust.

It’s roughly a mile from the trailhead to the next junction with Wintergreen Falls Trail. Along the way you will pass the occasional educational sign explaining the remedial work the State Forest Service has done to improve the pathways and waterways in the area, preventing flooding and washouts.

As DuPont is a working forest, so too will you find evidence of the logging activity that occurs throughout the state forest. You will pass a large clear cut area on your right along Tarklin Branch Trail, and later, as you meander along Thomas Cemetery Trail you will notice the forest thinning that has happened there. The loggers harvest only the most mature of the trees, leaving the younger ones for future use.

I think the forest that surrounds this region is among the most beautiful in DuPont. Another example of a beautiful pine forest hike off of Sky Valley Road is the Plantation Trail, a few miles farther up the road. The aroma of the pine is magnificent, and during warm weather you are treated to the wonderful bird music high above in the tallest boughs.

When you reach the junction, turn left (east) on Wintergreen Falls Trail, then it is an additional half mile to the waterfall. Continuing through the forest, you will notice fields of massive boulders on your left, fallen from the granite plutons high above. As you approach the end you will see horse tie-offs, and safety signs warning of the danger of waterfalls. First, you will reach the rocky whitewater cascades of Grassy Creek on your right, then wind your way northeast through a very thick rhododendron forest that parallels the creek.

As you duck through the rhodo branches, there are many large boulders creekside that are useful for setting up a camera tripod, or just sitting to watch… and listen. Wintergreen Falls is not particularly large, perhaps 15-20 feet tall and of equal width. The largest channel is on the left side of the cascade. During the dry season you can wade in the splash pool, but I wouldn’t recommend it during high flow periods.

This is Wintergreen Falls. Due to the very wet winter of 2020, it is flowing pretty nicely.

We stayed to visit for about 20 minutes, joined eventually by another pair of hikers. When we’d had enough, we returned the same way, a half-mile to the junction with Tarklin Branch. However, rather than going back, we turned left (west) here on Sandy Trail. This one is named appropriately. The tred on Sandy Trail is indeed quite sandy, remnants of being in the flood plain of Grassy Creek.

Grassy Creek starts with whitewater, but soon calms down to a slow, quiet stream cutting through dense, overhanging rhododendron thickets. Did you know that Grassy Creek is named for the evergreen teaberry ground cover that can be found along its banks? There is one junction where you can wade the creek to try Grassy Creek Trail, but we continued on Sandy Trail for 0.6-mile. At the end it rejoins Tarklin Branch Trail, but further southwest. Turn left.

It is roughly another half mile on Tarklin Branch to its meeting with Thomas Cemetery Trail. We turned right here (north), but you can also go left to view the Thomas Cemetery. Another wide double track, Thomas Cemetery Trail takes you through yet more stunning pine and hardwood forest. As mentioned above, there is evidence here of fairly recent logging activity.

We found a nice log on the side of the trail to enjoy lunch, and heard an unexpected crash in the forest nearby. We soon found out it was a State Forest Service ranger in a pickup truck driving through a frozen puddle, causing the crash-like loudness in the otherwise silent woods. We waved back and forth as he passed by, then put our packs back on to resume the trek.

You stay on Thomas Cemetery Trail for about a mile, until it crosses Buck Forest Road where you turn right. It’s then one last half mile on Buck Forest back to the parking lot. You will pass one of the few remaining inholdings within DuPont State Forest as you approach the finish. I often wonder how annoying it is to the people who live there to have hikers and bikers traversing their backyard day after day.

Summarizing this hike, the destination is a delightful picturesque waterfall deep within the forest. Along the way you’ll be treated to the smells and sounds of a vibrant pine woodland, the exciting rush of whitewater, and the calm soothing essence of a clear mountain stream. This is a great one for the whole family, both kids and the elderly, as it is not the least bit hard. Be careful around waterfalls as always, but have a great time.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Located at milepost 316.5 along the Blue Ridge Parkway, Linville Falls moves in several distinct steps, beginning in a twin set of upper falls, passing through a small twisty gorge, and culminating in a high-volume 45-foot plunge. The Linville River flows from its headwaters high on the steep slopes of Grandfather Mountain and cascades through these falls as it begins a nearly 2,000 foot descent through this rugged and spectacularly beautiful gorge. Linville Falls has the highest volume of any waterfall on the northern edge of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Towering hemlocks, dense stands of rhododendron, and native wildflowers grow along the trails that begin at the Visitor Center and encircle the falls. I hiked the Linville Falls trail system on Thursday, May 16, 2019 beginning at 12:00PM and finishing about 3:00PM. My plan was to explore all the trails that depart from the Linville Falls Visitor Center.

Linville Falls Trail System Map

This day was a two-pronged treat for me. First, driving the ~80 miles from the North Carolina Arboretum to Linville Falls on the Blue Ridge Parkway with its many exciting features along the way. Second, hiking the trail system at the location with the ability to view this dramatic waterfall from five different vantage points.

The Parkway drive is like a roller coaster, going up and down and around, traveling from 3,000 feet to above 6,000 at Craggy Gardens and Mt. Mitchell, then back down to the Crabtree Falls region and on to Linville Falls. The foliage was a mixture of spring green at the lower elevations, to still waiting up at the very tops. As usual, Craggy Gardens was awash in morning fog, but was bluebird clear on the way back in the afternoon.

The Linville Falls recreation area is located at mile 316.5 on the Parkway. It includes a campground, picnic area, and trail system that surrounds the waterfalls. Two main hiking trails lead to multiple views of Linville Falls. Both begin at the Visitor Center and pass through remnants of a virgin hemlock forest mixed with other familiar tree species such as white pine, oak, hickory, and birch. A colorful and varied display of wildflowers decorates the trails in spring. A third trail makes a short trip to a smaller waterfall on Duggins Creek.

Erwins View Trail

This is a moderate 1.6 mile round-trip walk, offering four distinct overlooks, each revealing a different aspect of the Linville Falls area. Go past the Visitor Center and cross the footbridge over Linville River. You will have a rise over the first couple hundred yards followed by the same grade decline.

The first overlook is a half mile from the Visitor Center, and is a moderate walk with a slight loss of elevation. Here, the Linville River spills gently over the twin upper falls where it widens and pauses before picking up momentum. Drifting into a narrow twisty canyon, the water suddenly spirals out of sight and crashes loudly 45 feet over the lower falls.

The next overlook, Chimney View, 0.7 mile from the Visitor Center, is the first point on the trail where the lower falls can be seen. It offers an opportunity to photograph both the upper and lower falls. You can also see the Plunge Basin Overlook across the river. This overlook is named for the chimney-like rock outcroppings located to the right of the waterfall. The trail here is fairly strenuous, with a couple hundred feet of elevation gain, then you give some of it back as you descend several stairs to the platform.

Continuing farther up the hill, at Gorge View Overlook you can see the Linville River cutting its way through the Linville Gorge Wilderness Area. Unfortunately no looks at the iconic Hawksbill and Tablerock Mountains as they are around the bend out of view.

Just another 150 feet and the Erwins View Trail ends at Erwins View Overlook, 0.8 mile from the Visitor Center. From this vantage point you can enjoy a panoramic view of the Linville Gorge and a somewhat distant view of the upper and lower falls. You might want to bring a zoom lens to get your best shots.

Linville Gorge Trail

The trails to Linville Gorge (1.4 miles round trip) and to Plunge Basin (1 mile round trip) also start at the Visitor Center, on the parking lot side of the restrooms. The trailhead is kind of hidden among the rhododendrons.

The trail to Linville Gorge forks two tenths mile from the Visitor Center, with the right fork taking you to Plunge Basin Overlook where you can view the lower falls and the Chimneys. I think this one is the best view of all. That’s the look in the photo at the top of this post. If you happen to time it just right, when the rhododendron is in bloom, or when the oaks and hickories are crimson and gold in fall, it only adds to an already spectacular scene. The last 100 feet down to the platform consists of several stairs. Remember that on the way back up.

The left fork of Linville Gorge Trail winds down through rock cliffs to the bottom of the falls where the force of the cascading water creates a large pool. Don’t be tempted to swim here. It is quite dangerous, and also prohibited. Both of these trails are moderately strenuous, especially on the way back up.

Speaking of Linville Gorge, the Wilderness Area has more than a dozen other trails for the serious-minded hiker. I have trekked several of them in the past. You can see my reports here. By the way, did you know that Linville Gorge Wilderness was the first so designated back in the 1960s? The 1964 Wilderness Act created the National Wilderness Preservation System, which protects nearly 110 million acres of wilderness areas from coast to coast… and Linville Gorge was the very first.

Once you’re returned to the Visitor Center, don’t forget to give Duggins Creek Trail a chance. It starts the same place as the gorge trail and heads to the left. It is three tenths of a mile through thick forest to a footbridge over Duggins Creek where you get a somewhat muted view of Duggins Creek Falls through all the rhododendron that lines the creek. This one is actually best viewed in winter when there is not as much foliage obstructing the view.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

The Cosby section of the Smokies park is mostly known for its long, arduous treks to high country destinations like Mt. Cammerer and Inadu Knob. But there is another trail there that is more moderate in difficulty. A good day hike on Gabes Mountain Trail is the 4-mile round trip to Hen Wallow Falls, a 90-foot, multi-tiered cascade. This is cool, dense forest, some of it old growth, that is nourished by creeks reaching like fingers down the slopes of the Great Smoky Mountains. I hiked the Gabes Mountain Trail to Hen Wallow Falls on Monday, August 13, 2018 beginning at 8:45AM and finishing about 12:15PM. My plan was to take the trail to the waterfall, then return.

Map of the Cosby region of GSMNP including Gabes Mountain Trail.

First, let me apologize for the static trail map above. I usually post interactive GPS tracks, but when I got finished with this hike, I discovered that my GPS recording had failed. Darn!

I would also like to recommend that you wear high-top or mid-top boots when hiking Gabes Mountain Trail. With all the rocks and exposed roots found on this trail there are a myriad of opportunities for rolling an ankle. The support of hiking boots is important.

Case in point: On my way back down I passed a woman who had rolled her ankle and was quite hobbled. Her family was helping her get back to the trailhead, but I could tell it was painful. I asked if I could help, or could summon help, but they said they would eventually make it. Do you know what she was wearing on her feet? No, not flip flops, but close. She was wearing Chuck Taylor canvas sneakers. No support. Please don’t do this.

If you park at the Cosby Picnic Area, it’s a short 100 feet walk back down Cosby Park Road to the trailhead. The trail itself begins a gradual climb immediately, something it will do almost continuously for the next two miles. You will notice the trail tread is quite rocky here making it easy to stumble.

The trail runs through moist woodlands with nearly every kind of tree that grows in the Smokies. I found it to be quite humid on this mid-August day, after a week or more of consistent rain. The gnats were in abundance, so I rolled on a layer of repellent.

After three tenths of a mile a connector trail to Cosby Campground comes in from the left. There are footlogs over creeks and streams for the next half mile, including one fairly major crossing of picturesque Rock Creek. The trees get increasingly bigger and taller, and the woods darker and darker as you penetrate the heart of the forest.

I saw a wide variety of mushrooms, and the first flowering tops of early goldenrod along the side of the trail. The only blooming flowers I noticed were a few sundrops that found one small spot of direct sunlight beneath the forest canopy. Of more interest to me were the buffalo nuts, sometimes called oil nuts, that were growing on small ground level branches.

Buffalo nuts. Don’t be tempted to taste them. They will make you sick.

At the halfway point there is a trail sign pointing to the left, to Hen Wallow Falls and to backcountry campsite 34. This isn’t really a trail junction, just notification that there is a sharp left turn.

At times the trail takes on the look of a road, even as if it was laid in gravel. Well, this is because it used to be a road, one that the former residents of this area would use to take them to Hen Wallow Falls. You will notice artifacts of those early settlers deep in the woods. Boundary walls and stone chimneys are scattered throughout, but difficult to see during the green season when the woods are so dense.

The Civilian Conservation Corps built this trail in 1934, and now nearly a century later, it enables us to explore the depths of this forest. It used to be filled with chestnut and hemlock, giants that stood over a hundred feet tall. You can still see the chestnut stumps and logs along the trail, testament to their durability.

Rosebay rhododendron is also quite prevalent here, offering delightful white and pink blooms in early July. From a mile and a half up you begin to notice large boulders strewn throughout the woods, and then a short distance before the turn to the waterfall, there is a massive rock face in two levels on the left. Look closely at the variety of moss and lichen that adorns the wall.

At 2.1 miles, there is another trail sign, this one pointing to a side trail to Hen Wallow Falls. It is a short, but steep, one tenth of a mile. About half way down keep your eye out on the left for a large boulder with seams of quartz running through it. As you round the final bend you hear the telltale sound of rushing water that announces a waterfall is near.

The base of Hen Wallow Falls is dangerous. There is even a warning sign to keep your eye on young children. There is no splash pool here. Instead, the cascade from the 90′ drop plunges onto the broken rock at the bottom. The rocks are very wet, and very slippery. Hence the danger.

Water falls over a very narrow top and widens as it drops over multiple tiers to the rocks below. Moss and lichens grow on the rock, giving everything a green tint. I happened to be fortunate to be there after more than a week of heavy rain, so the water flow was significantly heavier than typical mid-summer.

I stayed for about a half hour, eating my lunch and enjoying the splashing of the cascade. I had it all to myself the entire time. Early bird and all that. That would soon change as nearly three dozen other hikers were an hour behind me.

The climb back up to Gabes Mountain Trail from the falls is the hardest part of this hike. It is fairly steep, but it only lasts a tenth of a mile. The rest of my return trip was uneventful, other than the injured lady in the Chuck Taylors. The rising temperature and the typical summer humidity made for a very sweaty downhill hike.

Summarizing Gabes Mountain Trail to Hen Wallow Falls, this is a moderately difficult climb of two miles through very dense hardwood forest. The reward at the end is worth it. The waterfall is a big one. You can continue out Gabes Mountain Trail several more miles beyond Hen Wallow Falls. There is a campsite out there, and I’m told there are pretty spectacular old growth trees. If you bring young kids with you, please watch them around the waterfall.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

This is one of my new favorite Spring wildflower hikes in the Smokies. The flowers are brilliant along both the Bradley Fork and Cabin Flats Trails. The Smokemont region of the Smokies is one of the most convenient, located just a short few miles northwest of the Oconaluftee Visitor Center off Hwy 441. It is four miles up Bradley Fork to Cabin Flats Trail, then another 1.1 miles to campground 49 at Cabin Flats. All the while the sounds of the stream will be your constant companion. I hiked this section of the national park on Friday, April 6, 2018 beginning at 10:30AM and ending about 4:00PM. My plan was to hike Bradley Fork Trail to Cabin Flats Trail and on to Cabin Flats, then turn around and return.

This hike begins on Bradley Fork Trail at Smokemont Campground. It is an old roadbed that follows alongside the Bradley Fork of Oconoluftee River. You’ll be on this delightful trail for the next four miles. It is shared by horses, but I found it to be in mostly good shape… just occasional mud. As you reach the top of the first rise, you’ll notice the trail from the stables coming in from the right.

In April, be sure to keep your eye on the bank on the right side of the trail for wildflowers. Expect to find a wide assortment including rue anemone, trillium and violets.

As you follow this picturesque creek you’ll notice the occasional bench placed by the Park Service so you can sit and contemplate the natural beauty. Particularly in spring when the wildflowers are in bloom, this is a very enjoyable stroll through the forest. Just past a mile, you’ll cross over a foot bridge, then reach a junction with the Chasteen Creek Trail. There are plenty of other sights to see up there, but to stay on target for the Cabin Flats hike, you want to take the left trail to remain on Bradley Fork.

The road winds through a low area in the forest where you can tell the creek occasionally overflows its banks. The Smokies are known for the wealth of water, and like most trails here, it is apparent there is no shortage in the Smokemont region. There is also no shortage of advantageous viewpoints for creek photography. I found myself stopping frequently trying to capture the look of what I was hearing.

At the 1.7 mile mark you will reach the junction with Smokemont Loop. For this hike though, continue on Bradley Fork.

Not far past this junction, the woods really dominate the trail, in a stately manner. Tulip poplar, sycamore and yellow birch are most common, and rise more than a hundred feet to swallow the pathway. This area is also a wildflower bonanza, featuring wood anemone, may apple, thousands of trillium grandiflorum, violets,phlox, and even some fringed phacelia. Also look for geraniums, hepatica, buttercups, and solomon seal later in April.

Both Bradley Fork and Cabin Flats Trails are lined with thousands of these woodland phlox in a variety of shades.

You will come to a pair of footbridges where Bradley Fork splits to form an island. There was a hen turkey crossing the second bridge when I got within a hundred feet. Upon noticing me, she scurried off into the woods. The stream is now on your right, while the bank on the left is full of the unusual Fraser’s sedge. It looks more like a landscaping plant for your home than a mountain wildflower.

After another stretch of majestic forest, you will once again cross Bradley Fork where Taywa Creek spills into it from the right, creating a nice cascade. Look for a patch of trout lilies along the bank here.

At mile 4 you come to a major hiker traffic loop, with trails in nearly every direction. There is a nicely strategic bench here so you can pull out your trail map and survey the situation. I also used the opportunity to enjoy a snack. Cabin Flats Trail begins here straight ahead, while Bradley Fork makes a sharp right turn and heads uphill to eventually meet Hughes Ridge.

For perhaps two tenths mile Cabin Flats Trail is a continuation of the roadbed alongside Bradley Fork, but then it crosses the waterway on an old-timey trestle bridge that even has a graveled surface. Once on the other side, Cabin Flats Trail changes to a single track hiker’s path, and makes a hairpin turn uphill.

The next half mile is the steepest portion of this hike, but is still not particularly strenuous. What is fascinating about this stretch is the incredible variety of wildflowers to be found beside the trail. I counted four different kinds of violets, phacelia, hepatica, rue, phlox, trillium, trout lilies, spring beauties and bluets. In fact, this stretch of Cabin Flats Trail rivals the hill climb on Chestnut Tops Trail for the garden-like assemblage of flowers. A must see. So if you’re thinking of turning around back at the traffic loop, come ahead at least this far.

This area also escaped lumber company clear cutting, so look for old growth tulip poplar, basswood, buckeye and hemlock. Unfortunately the hemlock have succumbed to the woolly adelgid blight, but the grey ghosts still stand. At the half mile mark you reach the junction with Dry Sluice Gap Trail heading uphill to the left. Continue straight here, another 0.6 mile to Cabin Flats.

The uphill climb on Cabin Flats Trail offers of wealth of wildflowers and old growth forest.

The trail flattens out for a quarter mile before beginning a gradual descent back down to creek level at Cabin Flats. You’re hanging on an edge here above the flats. To your right notice a floodplain caused by a massive logjam on Bradley Fork. The trailside is covered with multi-colored phlox, violets, hepatica, and if you’re lucky, some blooming jack-in-the-pulpits.

At the bottom of the descent, the trail makes a hard right turn and enters Cabin Flats and the area designated as backcountry campsite #49. There are several distinct campsites within the Flats area, so if you’re looking for somewhere to bring the in-laws too, 49 is one to consider. There are a total of five tent sites.

The woodland floor was a forest of may apples when I was there, and beginning to green nicely. I pulled up a log to sit a spell and enjoy lunch. Other than the sound of Bradley Fork and a few songbirds, it was quiet and serene. I had it all to myself. This would be a nice place to camp overnight, or even for a few days.

I stayed for about 20 minutes, taking a few pictures, and just relaxing. Once I felt appropriately rested, I began the reverse trek, returning the same way I came. Nothing really of note to report about the return, other than even more wildflowers were out as the afternoon progressed. I felt so fortunate to have the opportunity to enjoy them.

In summary, this hike is relatively easy, climbing only 875 feet over five miles. Really, from a fitness perspective, the only thing to worry about is its length. If you’ve done 10 miles before, then you’ve got this one. I would put this hike right up there with some of the best in the Smokies for early Spring wildflowers. So with the creek, the forest, and the flowers, what’s not to like. Go do this.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Congaree National Park, located in the heart of South Carolina, is a land of towering trees, of floods and fire, of woodland paths and water trails used by people for more than 10,000 years. This rare, old growth forest became a national park in 1976. These ancient trees have witnessed wars, slavery, freedom, and destruction. There are 25 miles of hiking trails in Congaree, including Oakridge. Passing through a rich stretch of old growth forest, along the way you will cross a number of sloughs, or small creeks that carry floodwaters into and out of the park’s floodplain as the level of Congaree River rises and falls. Ken and I hiked Oakridge Trail on Wednesday, November 29, 2017 beginning at 9:15AM and ending about 2:15PM. Our plan was to take Boardwalk Trail to Weston Lake Trail, then on to Oakridge Trail. On the return we would catch the other side of each loop.

I just happened to notice it was going to be 70° in South Carolina the week after Thanksgiving. Seemed like a good time for a road trip. Congaree National Park, just southeast of Columbia, is only 2.5 hours from the mountains, so that seemed like a great opportunity to explore a new place. It was a good choice.

Just driving into Congaree National Park you can tell this place is different. I’ve been visiting and hiking the creeks and forests of the Blue Ridge and Great Smoky Mountains for years. This central Carolina floodplain is not the mountains. The forest is different. The aromas are different.

The Congaree River is bounded on both sides by bluffs that mark the edge of the floodplain and help contain floodwaters that cover much of the park each year. Those floods bring in minerals and other nutrients to the ecosystem. Most of the year the park is dry, but after a heavy rain sloughs and guts (small water channels) begin to fill.

Centuries ago, the southeastern North American continent was abundant in old growth forest floodplain. Today, more than 99 percent of it has been lost to pastures, farms and cities. The trees were cut for ships, railroads and buildings. 35 million acres are gone. Less than one half of one percent — 11,000 acres — is protected in Congaree National Park.

As soon as you begin hiking from the Harry Hampton Visitor Center (named for a journalist instrumental in protecting Congaree) on the Lower Boardwalk Trail you begin to notice the murky, swampy feel of the terrain on either side. Squirrels skitter about from dry spot to dry spot. Pileated woodpeckers dig for grubs in the fallen, wet trees.

After a quarter mile or so you come to the bald cypress trees, groves of which will provide shade throughout the remainder of the day. Also, you will find the first of the “knees,” unusual pointed mini-trees that stand anywhere from 1-3 feet high. Since cypress trees have such a wide but shallow root structure, the knees help stabilize their entire system. Many of these cypress systems are considered “champion trees,” the largest of their kind in the nation.

The Boardwalk is a 2.4 mile loop that allows easy access for all visitors to Congaree, offering an example of what the wilderness areas of the park have in store for those who set out on longer expeditions. The west side of the Boardwalk stands only about a foot above ground and may be regularly covered by water. The eastern side is elevated anywhere from five to 12 feet, enabling you to see the floodplain in action.

After three quarters of a mile, the Boardwalk makes a left turn, while the rest of the trail system continues on land into the wilderness. The first trail you will be on here, Weston Lake Loop Trail, is #3 and is blaze-marked as such. Most of Congaree is wilderness, a designation that protects its wild character, natural conditions, and opportunities for solitude. No mechanical objects are allowed in designated wilderness, preserving quiet, peace and serenity for wildlife, and for hikers. The only break in the silence is the occasional flyover of fighter jets from nearby Shaw Air Force Base.

Bald cypress “knees” help to stabilize the root system of these giant trees that stand in water.

The Weston Lake Loop Trail is an inner loop within the wilderness that is 4.4 miles in total, and stays on the north side of Cedar Creek. Oakridge Trail (#4) is a 6.6 mile outer loop that crosses to the south side of Cedar Creek and offers additional exploration. Ken and I felt adventurous, so we mapped out a path that would take us most of the way around both loops, a hike of almost 10 miles.

We soon began to notice another of the forest differences of lowland South Carolina — spanish moss hanging from the branches and treetops of the giant oaks and beech. We were treated to a surprise as well, there was quite a bit of autumn leaf color still happening, even at this late November date.

As you walk into the backcountry, the swamp whispers stories of its abundant history. The first people inhabited the Congaree 10,000 years ago, hunting with stone arrowheads and gathering pawpaws. Europeans began to explore the area in the 1500’s bringing with them disease and war, stealing the land from the native peoples.

As you walk among the cypress groves growing in dry sloughs, you notice the occasional small meadows, remains of the slave period when the floodplain was developed for crops. During the Revolutionary War, the famous American general Francis Marion, known as the Swamp Fox, led a siege that broke the British hold on the land around Congaree.

In the next century, during the Civil War, slaves used the Congaree as a hiding place, even forming small communities. After the war, the freed people were able to buy farms in the “40 acres and a mule” program. As the turn of the century approached, a logging company bought most of the Congaree floodplain, hoping to score a fortune from the old growth oaks, cypress and pine. Instead, they discovered the frequently wet forest to be difficult and expensive to log, and gave up.

In the mid-20th century, the loggers tried again, but this time were stymied by a grassroots campaign to save the forest, led by journalist Harry Hampton. With bipartisan support, legislation was eventually passed to preserve this largest remaining old growth floodplain in the Southeastern United States, and in 1976 Congaree was given national park status.

The Oakridge Trail is easy to hike, level and wandering. We were fortunate to catch it completely dry, not even damp. A park ranger at the Visitor Center told us before we started that mud is very common. The ground cover is mostly switch cane and river cane, quite common in the Carolina lowlands. In addition to the cypress, oak and beech, look for tupelo trees with their swollen trunks.

There is occasional blow down that must be navigated, courtesy of hurricanes Hugo in 1989, Matthew in 2016, and Irma in 2017. Some of it may be difficult for small children to get over, but lifting and carrying will solve that problem.

As we reached the eastern side of Oakridge Trail, we once again crossed over Cedar Creek and picked up the southern bottom of the Weston Lake Loop Trail, following Cedar Creek for the next mile and a quarter. We kept an eye out for river otters. Sightings are common along the creek bank, but not for us on this day. So we found a particularly scenic spot amid a cypress grove and stopped for lunch.

This particularly enticing view along Weston Lake Trail proved to be a delightful place for lunch and a rest.

The impressive height of the Congaree forest canopy comes thanks to the extremely rich soil, the frequent flooding, and the southeastern climate offering a long growing season. The oaks and cypress average 130 feet here, and on the western side of Weston Lake Trail there are loblolly pines that scrape the sky 160 feet above.

These “champion” trees, however, remain at risk despite the protections that are now in place. Floods bring with them pollution. Climate change is altering plant growth and animal behavior, as well as weather patterns (for example, the more frequent high-wind hurricanes).

As we returned to the eastern side of the Weston Lake Loop, we hopped back on the Boardwalk to head over to the west side of the loop again to check out the massively tall loblollies, and Weston Lake. Once a bend in the Congaree River, Weston Lake is now what is called an oxbow lake, a U-shaped body of water that forms when a wide meander from the main stem of a river is cut off, creating a free-standing body.

I was struck by how the lake’s elevation is right there with the dry land. Walking along the lakeshore made it quite evident just how easy it is for all of this to flood. It probably isn’t a good idea to visit Congaree soon after an especially hard rain. The park ranger also told us that when the trees go dormant in winter, they stop drawing water from the earth. Therefore, the water table naturally rises, flooding the surface even if there hasn’t been rain. Amazing!

After viewing the lake and the champion pines, we headed back to the Boardwalk for the return to the Visitor Center. This eastern side of the Boardwalk is elevated, quite the work of engineering. We were impressed with the pylons, some steel, some wood, that support more than a mile of lumber.

Along the way we passed stands of dwarf palmetto, cousins of the cabbage palmetto, the South Carolina state symbol. There is also a large iron box on the right side of the Boardwalk that is a remnant of the rough and tumble moonshiner days when alcohol was banned by the government. There are also occasional snags, dead trees that are still standing. Hopefully when they fall they don’t crush the Boardwalk.

When we got back to the Visitor Center, we went inside once again to thank the rangers and volunteers for an awesome experience. The park infrastructure, and its trails, are trash free. We did not come upon any along the nearly 10 miles of trails we hiked. The restrooms are clean, the exhibits are informative, and the people are friendly and helpful. What more could you ask for? Oh, the park is free too.

There is plenty more to do at Congaree National Park besides hiking. There are two campgrounds for tent camping only. You can canoe the Congaree River and portions of Cedar Creek. Fishing and wildlife viewing are favorites of many. More than 1,000 varieties of butterflies and moths live here, and yes, there are spiders too.

In the spring and summer, look for wildflowers along the pathways, and fireflies and owls after dark. Really the only negative wildlife are the feral hogs who root the ground for food, damaging the native plants, and the historic sites. The ground near the sloughs showed ample evidence of their presence.

There are 25 miles total of maintained trails within Congaree National Park. Ken and I scratched the surface with our excursion. You can even bring your doggie with you — on a leash. The River Trail and the Kingsnake Trail are longer adventures that go deep into the backcountry of the park’s wilderness. I can assure you we will be back.

Gee, I almost forgot. When you arrive for your visit to Congaree, be sure to check the “skeeter meter” hanging in the breezeway outside the Visitor Center. It will tell you what to expect on that day from the pesky mosquitoes. There are six levels on the meter, ranging from “all clear” (which it was on our visit in late November) to “war zone.” You probably want to wear 10 pounds of repellent as well as netting on those days in the summer.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Perhaps the finest creek side trail in all of Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Middle Prong Trail actually follows Lynn Camp Prong. Lynn Camp and Thunderhead Prong join to form Middle Prong just below the trailhead. You will walk alongside Lynn Camp Prong for the entire length of this hike, passing dozens of swift cascades and two exciting waterfalls. Look for a wide variety of wildflowers in spring and a splendid leaf peeping show in autumn. I visited Tremont on Wednesday, May 10, 2017 beginning at 7:30AM and ending about 10:00AM. My plan was to take the Middle Prong Trail to the junction with Panther Creek Trail, then return. I also wanted to explore part of nearby West Prong Trail.

My day began waking at the Cades Cove campground just before dawn. After a quick breakfast, I made the short drive to Tremont Road, past the Great Smoky Mountains Institute and on to Middle Prong trailhead. Still, I was not the first arrival. There were already two other cars there. Perhaps they were backcountry camping farther up the drainage.

Before you even reach the trailhead, you cross a sturdy iron bridge over the confluence of Lynn Camp and Thunderhead Prongs. The sights and sounds fill the senses with loud rushing whitewater. Once across the bridge the trailhead offers two choices. Off to the right is a short, three-quarter-mile nature trail that follows Thunderhead Prong. I went that way to start, then returned.

The left fork is Middle Prong Trail. A marker at the trailhead describes what you will find: “A short walk on this easy trail offers close-up views, subtle aromas and the serene quiet of a protected woodland. You will be walking in one of the last great wildland areas in the East, but you won’t need a backpack or hiking boots. Take your time: have a seat on a rock or a log bench. The trail has no particular destination, so walk as far as you like and then return.”

Good advice, and so true. There are many points of interest along Middle Prong Trail that you can hike to, but the destination is simply being there. With each new step, around every bend, there is something new to enjoy and savor. The trail hugs the prong so there is always another cascade, or pool, or boulder to grab your attention. Even the other side of the trail is moist healthy soil that is home to a wide variety of plant life including wildflowers.

This area was the very last that was logged even after the Smokies became a national park. Because of contracts the loggers were allowed to continue for five more years after the founding of the park. It has no effect today, however, nearly 80 years later. The forest has recovered remarkably.

Just the week prior there had been a major wind storm that hit the Tennessee side of the Smokies causing considerable damage, even closing the park for a couple of days because of downed trees on the roadways and hiking trails. I saw vestiges lying nearby as I proceeded up the prong. It is obvious the Park Service has done remarkable work to clear so much debris in such a short period of time. They are to be really commended for their dedication to providing the best experience for park visitors.

Middle Prong Trail is a multi-track, graded former railroad bed with Lynn Camp Prong on the left and sometimes steep rock faces on the right. At times the trail will rise above the river, but it usually stays close by. Trees, ferns and rhododendrons are anchored in large cracks along the rocky face on the right as well as a wide assortment of spring ephemeral wildflowers.

At the 0.4 mile mark, the trail makes a sweeping left turn as it surrounds Lower Lynn Camp Falls, a large slide, or chute, waterfall. There is a well positioned log bench here for taking a load off or taking pictures. If you are adventuresome, there is also a manway that plunges to the base of the falls for a closer view. As you round the left turn, you get a nice side view of the waterfall, as well as an outcrop that allows for peering over the precipice.

Above the falls the trail levels out for awhile, as does Lynn Camp Prong. Look for the occasional calm, deep pooling here with plenty of large boulders so you can sit a spell.

Three quarters of a mile up offers another log bench at the site of a three tiered waterfall that used to be a splash dam used by the logging companies. This is known as Lynn Camp Prong Falls. Once again the trail levels out after the splash dam. Look for dense rhododendron thickets lining the prong that come alive with white flowers in late June-early July.

By now the sun was beginning to rise above the nearby mountain ridges enlightening the forest canopy and creating interesting lighting for the rest of the climb up the drainage. At the 2 mile mark look for a side trail on the right that goes about 50 yards to an old automobile artifact.

As the sun rises above the mountain ridges it turns the forest canopy a bright, bright green.

You will cross a modest earthen foot bridge over one of the branches that flows into Lynn Camp Prong, then ascend a long straightaway to the junction with Panther Creek Trail. This was my turning around point for this day, but if you wish to proceed there are a number of options available to you.

Panther Creek is a connector to Jakes Creek in the Elkmont area. Continuing up Middle Prong Trail will take you to Indian Flats Falls and the Greenbrier Ridge Trail, or to Lynn Camp Prong Trail and backcountry camping opportunities. You can even eventually top out at Derrick Knob on the Appalachian Trail.

As I turned around and began the descent, the day was warming nicely and I was down to short sleeves. I encountered other hikers who had been behind me earlier and stopped to chat with a few. At times you will have to almost yell because of the loudness of the whitewater.

I also wanted to visit West Prong Trail to get a sense of what to expect on a longer hike there. West Prong Trail is a connector between the Tremont area of the park and trails within Cades Cove. It climbs up and over Fodderstack Mountain to meet the Bote Mountain Trail.

When I arrived at the trailhead, I could immediately see that West Prong was one of the last to receive cleanup work following the recent wind storm. There was quite a bit of debris still blocking the pathway. So I made a quick visit to the family cemetery that is found high on a hill off to the right of the main trail, then called it a day.

Summarizing, the Smokies are famous for a number of exciting features including, majestic mountain vistas, stunning hardwood and evergreen forests, colorful display of seasonal wildflowers, teeming wildlife, and water, water everywhere. If you’re looking for a water hike through dense forest then Middle Prong is exactly the right trail for you. Because of the easy nature of the trail it is ideal for the whole family, so bring the toddlers and the grandparents. Just be careful near waterfalls.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

One of the most popular hiking trails in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Abrams Falls at the west end of Cades Cove has the full Smokies package all in one. Here you can find rich, bountiful forest with a floor of colorful spring wildflowers, a rushing creek that provides refreshing nourishment for all the plants and wildlife, good exercise as you climb up and over Arbutus Ridge to enjoy majestic mountain views, the stunning reward of a picturesque plunge waterfall, and a touch of Smokies history from the Cherokee and settlers who called this region home more than a century ago. I visited Abrams Falls on Tuesday, May 9, 2017 beginning at 10:30AM and ending about 2:00PM. My plan was to take the Abrams Falls Trail to the waterfall, then return. Many, many others got to enjoy it with me.

As I arrived at the entrance to Cades Cove, my first stop was the campground, to pick out a spot for later in the evening. I could tell this was going to be a great day. All the rangers at the campground had on big smiles and friendly greetings. It’s as if they already knew what a wonderful day was in store for me. With my senior national parks pass, I was able to pay for the site I had chosen at half price. Can’t beat that.

I was anxious to get to the Abrams Falls trailhead, but how can you not take time to enjoy the northeastern side of the Cades Cove loop on the way. There is so much to see and experience along the way. You can’t help but get sidetracked by all the natural beauty and excitement.

I reached the gravel road to the trailhead shortly after 10:00, found a place to park (there were plenty at this time of day), and got everything together to begin hiking. Backpack. Check. Lunch. Check. Camera. Check. Sunscreen. Check. Hat. Check. Tripod. Check. Anticipation. Check & check. Off I went.

The trailhead is on the west end of the parking cul-de-sac, hidden within the trees. There is a fancy foot bridge right off the bat across Abrams Creek, and I could see already that the mountain laurel was beginning to bloom. That’s a good sign. Once you cross the bridge, there is a path to the right that leads to the site of a former lodge operated by kin of John Oliver, the very first white settler who came to Cades Cove almost 200 years ago.

The Abrams Falls Trail turns left after crossing the bridge and parallels Abrams Creek, named for Cherokee chief Abram who lived in a community that is now beneath the waters of Chilhowee Lake. Much of the gorge that was carved by Abrams Creek is sandstone, somewhat unusual in the eastern U.S.

The trail ascends and descends a total of four times out and back, with the largest of the climbs being up and over Arbutus Ridge, named for the trailing arbutus that grows seasonally along its flanks. There is plenty to see here, with the creek on your left, and a wide variety of wildflowers brightening the trail along the way. I was fortunate to spot galax, rattlesnake weed, partridge berry, mountain laurel, solomon seal and bleeding hearts.

Bleeding hearts, known as Dicentra, light up shady areas with their elegant long stems and famous heart-shaped flowers.

At the one mile mark the trail crosses a notch at the crest of Arbutus Ridge and offers dynamic views on both the east and west sides of the surrounding Smoky Mountains. From a perch high above, you can see shoals of Abrams Creek a hundred feet below as it cuts through the bright green forest.

In early May, when I was there, keep your eyes peeled on each side of the trail soon after beginning the descent from Arbutus Ridge for the best of the wildflower display. I found both smooth and false solomon seal, blackberry blossoms, buttercups and the healthiest patch of bleeding hearts I’ve ever come upon. Between the view and the flowers it’s a remarkable spot.

As you continue your descent of the ridge you get up close looks at the underlying sandstone bedrock that forms the Abrams gorge. Watch your step as you descend. There are plenty of tripping hazards including exposed roots and rocky terraces. There is plenty of mountain laurel on this side of the ridge, combining with oak and pine to make a delightful scent.

Just past the two mile mark you will be able to see and hear Abrams Falls below you on the left. You will cross a couple of footlogs over Wilson Branch as it joins Abrams Creek just below the falls.

Abrams Falls isn’t the tallest waterfall you’ll ever see… about 20 feet. But it is relatively wide, it almost always has a hefty flow level, and it spills into a wondrous pool that is at least a hundred feet in diameter. There isn’t a whole lot of dry land to view the falls from, so it can become rather crowded, quickly. Because this trail is so popular, particularly on warm weather weekends, it is best to get there early to enjoy the view.

I managed to find a flat rock in the pool with a clear view of the falls and setup for pictures and the video you see above. I took time to munch on a sandwich and people watch. The weather was delightful with warm air and a cool breeze. The water still had its spring-time chill, so no one was doing more than just dipping their toes.

I could see that the crowd was beginning to grow, so that signaled to me it must be time to move on and give the new arrivals the same chance to enjoy the scene (side note – based on the number of people I passed on my way back that were just then heading to the falls, I suspect there might have been over a hundred folks there at the same time after I left).

Abrams Falls Trail continues beyond the waterfall another 1.7 miles to meet the Hannah Mountain Trail, providing more opportunity to view the sandstone gorge carved by Abrams Creek. On this day however, the falls was my destination, so I began the ascent back up Arbutus Ridge. It is steeper on this side, so you may want to just take your time… nice and easy going.

Past noon now, the trail was really crowded with the later arrivals. Also, even more wildflowers had emerged in the bright sunshine that poked through the tree canopy, particularly the mountain laurel. It took a break at the crest of Arbutus Ridge, enjoying the refreshing breeze on my moist brow, and the marvelous views of the greening forest.

Later, I found another spot along the creek to sit on a log and listen to the cool, clean water go sliding by. The songbirds were in abundance, helping to complete the peaceful, relaxing environment. Probably 20 people walked by while I was there, but I hardly noticed.

When I got back to the car, the parking area was now completely packed, even spilling somewhat down the gravel road. This was a weekday… not spring break… not a holiday… just a very busy place. Get there early!

In summary, it took me a long time to finally get to Abrams Falls. I’ve heard about it for years, but it is the farthest point in the Smokies from where I live in North Carolina. Logistically, I really need to plan it as a two day trip, and so I did. Having now done the hike, I can see why it is so popular. The trail has a little bit of everything and the reward at the end is indeed a very picturesque waterfall.

Since I was camping overnight at Cades Cove, I still had plenty of time to enjoy the myriad of features to be found there. Following are two separate photo galleries. The first goes along with this trail report about my trip to Abrams Falls. Once you have viewed those pictures, come back here and scroll down a little farther. There is another gallery below of my evening spent around Cades Cove. As always, feel free to leave your comments at the bottom below the galleries.

After the delightful hike to Abrams Falls, I got setup at the Cades Cove Campground, found some excellent BBQ in the quiet haven of Townsend, TN, then did some more exploration of Cades Cove by car. I found plenty of wildlife, an historic cemetery, and the desire to return many, many times. Here are my photos from the evening.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Yellowstone Prong has some of the most rugged terrain in all of the Pisgah Ranger District. Paralleling the Blue Ridge Parkway from Looking Glass Rock Overlook at milepost 417, and climbing the drainage from Skinny Dip Falls to Yellowstone Falls, this hike in, along, and above Yellowstone Prong may be the most challenging mile I have undertaken. You will scramble over car-size boulders in the prong. You will whack your way through rhododendron thickets and climb over massive hemlock and oak deadfall. Best of all, you will enjoy incredible beauty in the midst of the gorge carved by Yellowstone Prong. Ken and I tackled this one Tuesday, April 11, 2017 beginning at 9:15AM and ending about 1:45PM. Our plan was to climb the Yellowstone Prong drainage from Skinny Dip Falls to Yellowstone Falls. We made it about 90% of the way, but saved the rest for another adventure.

Start this hike directly across the road from the Looking Glass Rock Overlook at milepost 417 on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Look for the stone marker with the white blaze mark of the Mountains to Sea Trail. For the first half mile you will follow the MST down into the drainage passing groves of beech trees, hillsides of galax, and a couple of branch crossings along the way. The trail descends about a hundred feet. Keep that in mind. You will have to climb back up when you return.

The U.S. Forest Service has done a lot of work along this section of the trail to improve erosion problems. This short walk to Skinny Dip Falls is extremely popular with the teenagers during warm summer months, and you will undoubtedly notice the many social trails that lead to overnight camping spots. When you reach a wooden stairway at Skinny Dip Falls you have entered Yellowstone Prong.

You may wonder, “what is a prong?” You’ve heard of river, stream, creek, brook, branch, fork. A prong is simply the branch of a stream. In this part of Pisgah National Forest and Shining Rock Wilderness you are in Little Pigeon River country. Because the water tumbles thousands of feet from the myriad sixers that dominate the area, it flows every which way, wherever it can find the quickest way to the bottom. Many of these branches or forks are known as prongs in the Southern Appalachian Mountains.

Cross the wooden foot bridge across Yellowstone Prong just below Skinny Dip Falls. You are now on your own. There are no trail markers to guide you. Head upstream, staying near the water and look for a social trail that heads west up the drainage. It’s not hard to find near the falls, but the farther up the drainage you go, the more a defined trail becomes obscure.

Not far beyond Skinny Dip Falls the forest is carpeted with ephemeral wildflowers in April including spring beauties, trout lilies, various species of violet, bluets, and sedge. Also look for mostly oak, pine and hemlock trees, with an occasional dogwood thrown in for springtime beauty. As you will soon discover, the rhododendron is also everywhere. By the time you have finished this hike you will have a love-hate relationship with rhododendron.

For the first quarter mile, the social trail stays fairly close to the prong and is not too tough to negotiate. As you continue upstream the prong gets rockier and the gorge walls steeper. We encountered a fly fisherman, obviously in fishing nirvana in this stream known for native brook trout.

You must decide whether to proceed in the prong by scrambling over and around the boulders, or to climb higher up the bank hoping for a dry egress. We chose the latter, changing our mind a half hour later.

Should we go this way, or fight with the rhododendron on the bank?

The social trail seemed to continue up the bank, away from the prong, at least for awhile. It kept going higher, and kept going higher, and then just for good measure it kept going higher. We became stymied from proceeding westward by rhododendron thickets and deadfall. So we kept going higher, hoping for a passage through or around the forest debris. After 30 minutes of searching and continually climbing the ever steeper grade, we were tired, and decided to give the boulder field on the prong a go.

So back down, down, down we went all the while cursing ourselves for thinking this would be the best choice. When we got back to the prong, we paused for a breather and to survey the best approach for crossing the boulders. Reminding each other that boulder scrambling is a great way to turn an ankle, or worse, we began the ascent step by careful step.

Some minutes later we topped the terrace and popped out on a stunning view of a multi-tiered cascade plunging through another massive boulder field. We wondered aloud if this was perhaps Yellowstone Falls. Regardless, it was time for lunch. We found a perfect large, flat boulder to sit on right at the base of a 25 foot cascade. What a wonderful day. The weather was ideal… Carolina blue sky with puffy white clouds and a light breeze generated by the moving water.

The water itself was as refreshing as you can imagine as we each splashed our face with cupped hands. The sights and the sounds were inspiring. This is wilderness at its best. The fisherman we had seen earlier was now high above us standing on a rocky perch casting about into the hidden pools. Apparently he had continued up the prong when we had made the dubious decision to climb the hillside.

By the time we finished lunch, he had descended the cascades and now joined us in tales of adventure. We asked what was up higher around the bend and he said Yellowstone Falls was there, just beyond sight, about another 300 feet above. So, we were not sitting at the base of Yellowstone Falls. Darn.

After chatting with the fisherman for 20 minutes or so, Ken and I queried each other with our eyes about whether we still had it in us to do another boulder field climb. Had it not been for the needless excursion on dry land, perhaps we would have gone for it. As it was, we were already quite fatigued, and decided to save the rest for another day.

Wishing the fisherman adieu, we began our descent back through the boulder field we had previously climbed. Believe me when I tell you it is no easier going downhill. You have to be aware and alert of every step, placing your next one on an even surface where you are not likely to slip.

We reached a point where we could see the social trail on the north bank of the prong, so we scrambled up the side and back onto dry land. Even more wildflowers had popped out in the couple hours since we last passed through. It was delightful.

By the time we got back to Skinny Dip Falls, the crowd had arrived. There were probably two dozen folks there enjoying the cool refreshing mountain water on this exquisite April day. We paused at the top of the wooden stairway for a break, knowing we had that hundred foot climb remaining to get back to the Blue Ridge Parkway. I was huffing and puffing when we finished.

In summary, this is an adventure that is not for everyone. Do not try this one alone! It is too easy to get hurt, and then there would be no one to go for help. This is likely the most difficult 2-mile round trip I have ever tried. It took us four and a half hours to hike just two miles because of all the resting we had to do. The rugged nature of the prong will sap all of your energy. So stay hydrated… stay nourished… and stay safe.

Updated September 20, 2017

After getting a taste of Yellowstone Prong in spring, I was determined to make it to Yellowstone Falls. This time Ken and I decided to tackle this wilderness from the top down, starting at Graveyard Fields at milepost 419 on the Blue Ridge Parkway.

As you will see from the new photo gallery below, it was a gorgeous day in the high country. Fall was in its earliest stages of coloring the mountains and creeks. Should be a great day, right?

To make a 2.5 hour story short, we each returned a dirty, bloodied mess. There are scattered “volunteer” trails below Lower Falls at Graveyard Fields that will lead you to an area of the gorge near Yellowstone Falls. I eventually made it to the Yellowstone Falls basin. However, I’m not going to tell the story because I really don’t want to encourage others. This area really isn’t safe. You’re a lot better off coming up the drainage from below.

I will include the GPS track map I created so you can get the coordinates, but this is one you probably want to skip. Anyway, enjoy the pictures. Feel free to leave your comments below.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Some of the earliest wildflowers of the new season can be found on the Green River Game Lands near the North and South Carolina border. The elevation isn’t quite as high here as it is in most of the mountains of WNC, so the flowers get a little bit of a head start. Look for chickweed, rue anenome, wake robin trillium, blue and Canadian violets, robins plantain and lots of bloodroot. Several more varieties will follow in succeeding weeks, but these are the first to pop out and display their finery.

I hiked the Little Bradley Trail the afternoon of March 24, 2017. It was perfect hiking weather on a low humidity day around sixty degrees. It was also ideal for picture taking of Little Bradley Falls with a heavy overcast enabling longer exposures.

The water level in Cove Creek is still very low, especially compared to previous visits I have made there. It is readily apparent that drought conditions still exist in Western NC, so if you’re out camping please be very careful with fire.

Come along with me on this photo tour of what you can expect at Green River Game Lands in late March.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.