The Castle Trail is the longest in Badlands National Park, but can be broken up with three distinct trailheads. Medicine Root connects with Castle Trail at Saddle Pass and Old Northeast Road creating a loop of about five miles. The terrain is mixed grass prairie and arroyo, with views of the Badlands pinnacles throughout. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife. It is abundant. Hope for a dry day when hiking in the Badlands. Mud is quick to form and very goopy. My brother Dave and I hiked this loop on Monday, May 28, 2018 beginning at 8:30AM and finishing about 1:15PM. Our plan was to hike the loop clockwise, starting at the Old Northeast Road trailhead, then add a tail to the loop by continuing on Castle Trail toward the Window and Door.

A few days earlier we hiked the western portion of Castle Trail to Saddle Pass. It was our intention on this day to check out the central area of the prairie, including Medicine Root Trail. This portion of Castle Trail also goes to Saddle Pass where it picks up Medicine Root.

We were a bit apprehensive on our way to Badlands National Park, because just like our previous visit, there had been a rain storm the night before. The Badlands become pretty much unhikeable when very wet. The clay that forms the foundation becomes very soft and adheres to everything it touches. When we arrived at the trailhead, there were puddles, but the ground surface seemed to be reasonably firm. Perhaps this would work out after all.

We started out on Castle Trail heading west. Unfortunately, for the first half mile, a line of power poles dominates the landscape as it takes electricity to the Visitor Center and to the campground. Once past that, the trail approaches the edge of the Badlands Wall, past deep arroyos that demonstrate the power of erosion.

It’s a barren landscape here with very little grass, unlike the other side of the loop. It can be difficult to follow the trail across this landscape. Fortunately the Park Service has recognized that, and strategically placed red stakes to aid with navigation.

The next mile the path weaves through a maze of spires, buttes, sod tables, and fins interspersed with open prairie. The spires are to your left (south), while the prairie is on your right (north). I should note the Castle Trail is fully exposed to the elements. There are no trees. There is no shade. If it rains, you will get wet. So come prepared. Sunscreen and a hat are a must, and it’s best to have rain gear with you just in case.

At about 2.2 miles you arrive at Saddle Pass, and an opportunity to view the south side of the Badlands Wall. There is a great overlook of the colorful spires erupting from the valley floor 200 feet below, as well as long distance views of the White River Valley and the faraway community of Interior.

We happened to arrive when there was a busload of school kids climbing up the pass from below on this Memorial Day holiday. They all wanted to show their friends how high they could climb by scaling the tallest spires and pinnacles. After awhile though, the screaming that went along with that got a bit tiresome, so Dave and I moved on to the Medicine Root Trail.

This is the view looking south across the White River Valley from Saddle Pass.

Medicine Root heads in a northeasterly direction for a half mile as it takes you away from the Badlands Wall and deep into the prairie grassland. The trail marker stakes are now green to match the prairie. There are places out here where grass is all you can see in every direction. With grass also comes wildflowers. We came across patches of daisy fleabane, goatsbeard, and a meadow with hundreds and hundreds of primrose.

Medicine Root is also a bit more secluded. We did happen upon the occasional hiker, but nothing like the Castle Trail. Frankly, there isn’t as much spectacular scenery to see over here, but it’s still different from mountain greenery that I’m used to back home. Perhaps that’s the reason fewer folks come this way.

Eventually the trail turns more to the east and continues across open prairie. At one point we came to a place where the trail dropped into a wide, grassy arroyo and we quickly discovered how much water had fallen in the recent storms. While you couldn’t see it beneath the grass, there was at least 2-3 inches of standing water in the arroyo.

We quickly looked for a place to easily climb the arroyo wall and get back up on dry land, ending up on opposite sides of the arroyo for a few hundred yards or so. As we continued, we encountered other areas that were somewhat swampy too, kind of tip-toeing our way through. Soon after, we also found a handful of trees, the first we’d seen all day.

After about a mile and a half on Medicine Root the trail turns southeasterly and you can once again see the spires and pinnacles of the Badlands Wall… and also the power poles that follow Old Northeast Road.

The final half mile of the loop is alternating grass and clay, grass and clay, as we got back to the car and took a break. The air temperature was warming, so I shed one layer, ate a snack, and sat down for awhile. Our plan now was to continue east on the Castle Trail, heading toward the Door and Window area.

This section of Castle Trail is on the east side of Old Northeast Road and immediately crosses a wood and iron footbridge over a wash. You walk around a series of Badlands pinnacles and are then hidden from the road. We passed a few other hikers coming in the opposite direction who gave us a tip that there were bighorn rams ahead.

As you can imagine, that excited me, so I picked up my pace. We had seen the ewes and lambs on a previous day, but this would be our first opportunity to check out some rams. Half a mile later, there they were, gently taking a siesta on the rim of an arroyo. We took lots of pictures, then left them alone as we continued eastward.

One of three bighorn rams we encountered along the eastern section of Castle Trail.

As you continue eastward on Castle Trail, the grass of the prairie goes away, and you wander in, around, and among the Badlands pinnacles and spires. At one point we reached an area where there was nothing but clay. Based on our previous experience with the Badlands mud, we were quite grateful that there hadn’t been more rain the night before. This place would have been impassable.

When we got to a point where we could see the major parking lot at the far eastern end of Castle Trail, we decided to turn around. When we got back to the grassy arroyo, the bighorn sheep had moved on, but it didn’t take long for us to find them… or should I say for them to find us.

It seemed as if they were following us. Everywhere we went, they came along too. If we crossed an arroyo, so did the rams. If we stayed up on the prairie grass, so too the bighorns, as they would pause and graze for awhile. At one point, as we rounded a turn in an arroyo, there they were no more than 50 feet away. That’s the photo at the top of this post.

They never acted threatening, nor of course did we. It just seemed that we were all heading in the same direction. Finally, after a quarter mile, they peeled off and began climbing one of the pinnacles off to the south. I’ve seen a lot of wildlife in my time hiking. This may have been one of the most interesting, and enjoyable, encounters.

We were almost back to the car now, passing a few hikers going the other way. We returned the favor and notified them to watch for the rams ahead. After a very overcast morning, the sky was beginning now to finally clear. We could actually see blue, a nice ending to a very pleasant hike.

Summarizing the Castle/Medicine Root Loop, this is one that doesn’t require much exertion. It’s pretty much level the whole way around the loop. If six miles is a little too much, you can make it shorter in a number of ways. You can also hike the full length of Castle Trail and back at about 10.5 miles if that’s your thing. Be prepared for weather changes, and cover your skin to prevent sunburn. There’s lots to see along this route, so take your time and enjoy.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

I think of the Hell Canyon Trail in Black Hills National Forest, South Dakota as two hikes. There’s the stroll through the canyon with lush trees and bushes and a wide assortment of colorful wildflowers. Then, there’s the path along the canyon rim that exposes the devastation of the 2000 Jasper Fire, the largest in Black Hills history. The undergrowth is recovering nicely from the wildfire, but the trees may be gone for a century or more. One can only imagine the beauty that must have once existed here. My brother Dave and I hiked this loop on Sunday, May 27, 2018 beginning at 6:30AM and finishing about 11:15AM. Our plan was to hike the loop counter-clockwise, starting in the canyon and finishing on the rim.

As we typically do, Dave and I started this hike just past dawn, so we enjoyed seeing the sun rising over the east canyon wall and lighting up the cliffs of the west side with its brightness. Almost immediately there was a patch of wild dwarf iris, a portent of things to come.

It was recommended to us by our new friend at the Custer Econolodge that we start in the canyon, because the grade to the rim at the far end is a lot more gentle. As it turns out, she was exactly right. If you start out climbing the rim, it is pretty darn steep. Waiting until the north end to climb to the rim is definitely the way to go.

The first half mile gives you a good idea of the size of the canyon. The rock cliffs on each side rise a couple hundred feet and dominate the landscape. The canyon is narrower here. One thing that seemed odd to me is there’s no evidence of the creek or river that carved this canyon eons ago.

The next mile the canyon widens, and is surrounded by unburned forest. Mostly ponderosa pine, there is also some birch and aspen to help make things really, really green in late May. Because of the lush ground level vegetation, I suspect this trail may even become a bit overgrown in the summer months… unless there are friendly local volunteers who come out to cut it back.

We passed evidence of old Civilian Conservation Corps camps. They were apparently busy in Hell Canyon back in their day. Look for occasional #32 signs posted on trees as your trail markers. This is Black Hills National Forest trail #32.

After nearly a week of perfect weather in western South Dakota, on this day Dave and I had to confront a pretty powerful wind that was in our face whipping through the canyon. It even got a bit chilly, as we each pulled long sleeves out of our packs. I don’t know if this is common because of the canyon, or if we just happened to hit a windy day.

The farther we progressed into the canyon, the more the wildflowers came to life. What impressed me the most was not necessarily the abundance of flowers, but the wide variety. I bet we saw more than 30 different wildflowers through the canyon, from white and blue violets to an interesting species of columbine, from the dainty shooting stars and star solomon seal to the large clusters of hawthorne blossoms concealing the nasty, nasty spikes on the stems.

The hawthorne blossoms hide the very long spikes that grow from the stems of the bush.

As you complete the 2nd mile, the canyon narrows again and the pines become taller and larger. We encountered a horse rider coming the other way, our first contact of the day. Just past two miles, the trail makes a hard left turn and begins the ascent to the rim.

I’m going to do something a little different here from my traditional trail reports. Usually, I place the photo gallery at the bottom of the report. Since this loop is really two entirely different hikes, I’m going to post two photo galleries. The first will include pictures from down inside the canyon. Then, after viewing those, come back here and scroll below the gallery of thumbnails to a continuation of the report. Lastly, there will be another gallery from the rim portion of the hike.

For the next half mile you climb gently through stunning pine forest, with patches of deep purple harebell lining the trail. You turn to a decidedly southerly direction for the return along the bench that is below the tallest of the cliffs.

Then you see it. You pop out of the forest into the bright sunshine and see the immense devastation of the Jasper fire. It’s like a nuclear bomb went off. The trees that weren’t completely consumed in the fire are flattened, laying on the ground. It is now a treeless landscape. The only vegetation is at ground level. You can tell there used to be a lot of trees simply from all the fallen lumber, but it is now a wide open expanse.

The fire started on August 24, 2000 just west of nearby Jewel Cave National Monument. Over the next week it burned a total of 83,508 acres in the southern Black Hills and approximately 90% of the land area of Jewel Cave, including the rim of Hell Canyon. But now, 18 years later, the forest floor, no longer thick with ash, hosts a variety of plants that have rebounded since the fire. It is still ugly, but it is recovering. However, it will take a long, long time for the trees to come back.

Perhaps the most predominant wildflowers found on the slopes of the canyon rim now are the prairie goldenpea and the harebell. It seemed through the week that everywhere we went we found the delightful goldenpea. Their bright yellow clusters always brought a smile. We even wondered if maybe the goldenpea was the state flower of South Dakota because they seem everpresent. (No.)

We began to see other hikers, taking the loop in the opposite direction. Later, as we looked down into the canyon, we could see the same hikers now below, traversing the trail we had been on hours before.

We encountered these hikers with their dog up on the rim an hour before.

After about a mile, mile and a half on the rim, there is one stretch where the trail is fit tightly at the base of a cliff, with a steep dropoff on the left side. The danger isn’t really too bad, but if you are prone to vertigo, you certainly wouldn’t want to lose your balance here. Just warning… there is exposure.

Another warning. On a bright sunny day you definitely want sunscreen and a hat when hiking the rim. There is no shade. Also, hold on to your hat because of that wind I mentioned before.

Perhaps a mile from the end, the trail reaches undulating, rolling hills. So there is a bit of up and down, but nothing particularly strenuous. Soon after you reach the point where the rim begins to drop off the edge. You have views now beyond the canyon, and can see just how far the vast Jasper fire extended throughout the national forest.

The descent is about a half mile in length, with lots of switchbacks. During the whole time I was thinking to myself how glad I was to have not gone up this direction. It is considerably steeper than the gradual grade at the north end. Thank you Echo, for the tip.

Summarizing the Hell Canyon Trail, be prepared for a stark contrast of scenery. Down in the canyon it is lush and green. Along the canyon rim it is total devastation. The difference is striking. Wildfire has incredible power. This was one of my favorite hikes during the week in western South Dakota, especially the lower portion. Despite the destruction, I think you would enjoy it too. Thankfully the wildfire spared the canyon itself. If you like, just go out to the end of the canyon, then come back the same way.

I don’t normally promote businesses in my trail reports, but Dave and I had such an excellent experience at the Econolodge in Custer that I had to mention it. The staff that works there are all super friendly, helpful and knowledgeable. We stayed with them for six nights and were completely satisfied. The price is very reasonable and the amenities are all that we needed. If you’re staying in Custer, SD I highly recommend the Econolodge.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

This is the hard way to get to the summit of 7,242′ Black Elk Peak, the highest in South Dakota. But, it affords you the opportunity to hike through the incredible Cathedral Spires, massive granite pinnacles that dominate the landscape in the Black Hills National Forest. Between the spires and the summit you pass through the rugged Black Elk Wilderness, named for an Oglala Sioux holy man. Craggy peaks and rocky slopes mixed with ponderosa pine, spruce and fir trees make for a varied ecosystem. My brother Dave and I hiked this demanding circuit on Saturday, May 26, 2018 beginning about 6:15AM and finishing at 12:45PM. Our plan was to start on the Cathedral Spires Trail, connect to the Little Devils Tower Trail (#4), then to the Norbeck Trail (#3), and finally the spur trail to the summit of Black Elk Peak, returning the same way.

After driving along the Needles Highway and seeing Cathedral Spires, then discovering there is a hiking trail that goes up in there, Dave and I said to each other, “we have to do that.” Then we learned the Cathedral Spires Trail also connects to one of the pathways to the summit of Black Elk Peak, another of our plans, and we were set. We would combine the two.

We discussed this with our friendly receptionist at the fine Econolodge in Custer to see if this seemed like something that two 60-somethings could handle, and she said absolutely. Go for it!

We noticed when driving by a couple days earlier that the parking for Cathedral Spires Trail was full in the afternoon, and since we tend to be early risers anyway, we were at the trailhead by 6:00 and got the first parking space. That also meant we had the 1.4 mile climb up into the middle of the spires all to ourselves. Just us and the sunrise.

The trail climbs about 400 feet right off the bat, then levels out for a bit, before one final surge up to the spires. We thoroughly enjoyed the sun peaking up over the granite monoliths of the Black Hills creating a golden glow across the limber pine forest. This area, annexed by Custer State Park, became a National Landmark in 1977. The awesome spectacle of the spires, and the disjunct limber pine forest make it totally unique.

As you get higher and higher, be sure to look behind you as well for the stunning view into the wide expanse of Custer State Park. This northwestern corner is mountains, but the majority of the park is rolling plains and prairie.

After about a mile and a quarter you’ll reach a trail junction. To the left is the way to Black Elk Peak, but take the right turn just so you can walk among the spires.

It’s another tenth mile to a dead end that gives you a good feeling of the massive size of the Cathedral Spires. The sheer walls are straight up, so you can imagine them to be quite popular with rock climbers. Later in the day, on our way back down, we discovered some climbers had been behind us on the trail this morning.

We were the first to arrive at Cathedral Spires on this beautiful late May morning.

About the only thing that spoils this magnificent scenery is the remediation work done by the U.S. Forest Service and S.D State Forests all throughout the Black Hills in an effort to tame the destruction of the pine beetles that have infested western states in recent decades. There is a lot of dead wood… some from the beetle kill, and some taken down by foresters to prevent the spread. It’s a shame. I’m sure this used to be an immaculate pristine forest.

After scoping out the spires, it was time to begin the ascent to Black Elk Peak, so back to the junction we went. The trail begins climbing in earnest right away, then you come to a right turn on the Little Devils Tower Trail (#4).

Trail 4 climbs a while longer, then surprisingly makes a rather marked descent of about 140 feet through a dark and healthy pine forest. Don’t you just hate to give up hard earned elevation, only to get to climb it all over again? It also means, of course, that you will have a climb on your way back down too.

As the trail begins ascending again you pop into the open at the base of a giant outcrop with several logs for benches and seats. It’s a nice place for a break and a nourishing snack. We checked our map to make sure we were in the right place, and pressed forward.

Soon after the snack break we entered a section of forest with extreme beetle kill, then came to the boundary for Black Elk Wilderness. The wilderness here, designated in 1980, was named after Nicholas Black Elk, an Oglala Lakota Sioux medicine man who was a cousin of the war chief Crazy Horse, and an important source of Native spiritual teachings.

Prior to 2016, Black Elk Peak was known as Harney Peak, named after a pre-Civil War Army general who led his troops against the Sioux in a long and brutal war. To honor Nicholas Black Elk’s legacy, Harney Peak was renamed to Black Elk Peak in 2016. As you wander around the western South Dakota area, you will notice the locals sometimes still refer to Harney Peak, as they’re still getting used to the name change.

After the area of dead forest, you enter a section of totally healthy new growth pine on a bed of verdant moss. Here we encountered our first hikers of the day, as they were coming down from the peak, obviously starting in the dark. They assured us we were on the right path, and wished us well as we continued our adventure.

A pleasant forest of moss and pine contrasts with all the unfortunate beetle kill.

About a mile into the wilderness you come to the Norbeck Trail (#3) junction and take a right turn. From here you make the final push to the summit, probably the hardest climbing of the trek. The forest opens up significantly and you can begin to see the Black Hills that surround you. It is a rocky, otherworldly terrain. Behind you is Cathedral Spires and to your right (east) is the region that includes Mount Rushmore National Memorial.

There is also a wealth of wildflowers up here, mostly the cheery prairie goldenpea, a bright yellow clustered flower that we had been seeing all over since our arrival in the Black Hills region. About a quarter mile from the summit, you have to make a left turn onto a spur trail that takes you the rest of the way. There is a small sign there that simply says Harney Peak with an arrow. They obviously haven’t gotten around to renaming the sign yet.

Soon after joining the spur trail, there is a great overlook with views in every direction. It’s a good preview of what’s coming later as you reach the summit. A bit farther up the trail, the stone fire tower that sits atop the summit comes into view for the first time. The tower was built by the Civilian Conservation Corp in the 1930s.

The final hundred feet of climbing is on stairs, some stone, some iron, and some masonry compliments of the CCC. The fire tower itself is retired now, but still open so you can wander around. There is a rain water impoundment pond and pump house at the summit, and several view points accessible by walking the gnarly granite. Be careful near the edges though, as the wind can really gust here. It was blowing 30-40 mph on the day we were there.

The granite high point at 7,242′ is sacred ground to Native Americans, especially the Sioux. It was upon this peak towering over the Sioux Nation that a young Black Elk experienced a vision. Many years later he would recount that vision publicly as he evolved as a respected elder and medicine man. You will still notice prayer ribbons tied to trees on the summit.

Be careful near the edges as it is very windy on Black Elk Peak.

From the summit vantage points you can see the back of Mt. Rushmore. We compared photos of the stone formations surrounding the monument to assure ourselves what we were looking at. You can also pretty much trace your steps through Cathedral Spires and the areas of forest on your way up to the summit, and also the way we would be heading back down.

After about 30 minutes of fighting the wind and the crowd of a hundred with us on the summit, we decided it was time to begin the descent. But first, we found a nice log beneath a couple pines away from the crowd to enjoy our lunch and refill for the hike back.

There were a whole lot more people coming up as we were going down. For what it’s worth, I don’t recommend doing this hike on a Saturday that also happens to be Memorial Day weekend. We should have planned our timing better and done this on a weekday. Our return trip was uneventful, except for a couple things worth mentioning.

When we got back to the forest where we had to climb back up the 140 feet, we could see the tower on the top of Black Elk Peak through the trees. We never noticed that on the way up. Also, when we got back to Cathedral Spires there were a couple of climbers standing on the top of one of the tallest spires. Better them than me. No thank you.

After we got back to the car, we still had several hours of afternoon left, so we took a drive on the Iron Mountain Highway in Custer State Park that offers long distance views of Mt. Rushmore as well as Black Elk Peak. I’ve included a couple of those photos in the gallery below for perspective. Also, we visited Stockade Lake, one of several reservoirs found in the state park.

In summary, if you enjoy rugged mountain terrain, and tough tests of your hiking endurance, put this one on your list when you visit western South Dakota. In addition to The Badlands, Wind Cave, and Custer State Park, you should check out some of the trails in the Black Hills National Forest, this one among them. If you are a peak bagger, you can check off a state high point. You undoubtedly get the best view of the surrounding mountains and plains from the summit. Just be sure to take plenty of water and energy with you. I consider this to be a Best Hike.

For what it’s worth, there are several other ways to get to the summit of Black Elk Peak. There are two trails from Sylvan Lake, and the Harney Peak Trail starts north of the summit. All of these are also difficult, but perhaps a bit less demanding than also including the Cathedral Spires Trail like we did.

I don’t normally promote businesses in my trail reports, but Dave and I had such an excellent experience at the Econolodge in Custer that I had to mention it. The staff that works there are all super friendly, helpful and knowledgeable. We stayed with them for six nights and were completely satisfied. The price is very reasonable and the amenities are all that we needed. If you’re staying in Custer, SD I highly recommend the Econolodge.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

“Let us place there, carved high, as close to heaven as we can, the words of our leaders, their faces, to show posterity what manner of men they were. Then breathe a prayer that these records will endure until the wind and the rain alone shall wear them away.” — Sculptor Gutzon Borglum

America’s presidential history is alive in stone. Majestic figures of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln, surrounded by the beauty of the Black Hills of South Dakota, tell the story of the birth, growth, development and preservation of this country. From the history of the first inhabitants to the diversity of America today, Mount Rushmore brings visitors face to face with the rich heritage we all share.

Sculptor Gutzon Borglum created the sculpture’s design and oversaw the project’s execution from 1927 to 1941 with the help of his son, Lincoln. The memorial park covers 1,278 acres and is 5,725 feet above sea level. Each president was originally to be depicted from head to waist. Lack of funding forced construction to end in 1941. Approximately 400 workers sculpted the colossal 60 foot high carvings.

Ponderosa pines dominate the dry, rocky landscape. The Black Hills take their name from the illusion of darkness the pines create when viewed from a distance. A half mile nature trail known as the Presidential Trail circuits the property and offers closeup views from beneath the faces. An evening lighting ceremony is held in the outdoor amphitheater nightly during summer.

The presidential faces on Mt. Rushmore dominate the landscape of the Black Hills. They can be seen from such far away locations as the Iron Mountain Highway in Custer State Park. The back of the monument can be seen from the summit of nearby Black Elk Peak, at 7,242′, the tallest mountain in South Dakota.

My brother and I couldn’t decide whether we wanted to grapple with the crowd at this very touristy location. One day after a hike, (on May 25, 2018) we still had the whole afternoon available, so we said, “why not.” Yes, it was touristy. Yes, it was crowded. But, we’re glad we went. The memorial grounds are very well done, and the whole place is truly a proper memorial to American presidential history.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

This hike in the heart of Wind Cave National Park combines two trails to make a 5-mile loop, and the two couldn’t be any more different. Centennial Trail takes you through lush meadows, and a rocky canyon lined with pine, while Lookout Point Trail experiences the wide open spaces of the South Dakotan prairie. Centennial follows the path of Beaver Creek through the canyon. Then, watch for wildlife on Lookout Point trail including prairie dogs, bison and pronghorn. My brother Dave and I hiked this combined loop on Friday, May 25, 2018 beginning about 6:30AM and finishing at 10:15AM. Our plan was to circuit the loop clockwise, starting on Centennial and finishing up with Lookout Point.

Centennial Trail was built in 1989 to mark the 100th anniversary of South Dakota’s statehood. It is 111-miles total length that will take you through prairies and mountainous areas. The trail begins at Bear Butte State Park, travels through the Fort Mead Recreation Area, Black Hills National Forest, Custer State Park and ends in Wind Cave National Park. It was this latter, southern end, where Dave and I picked up the trail.

From the trailhead, Centennial Trail (#6) starts in the forest and descends steeply about 140 feet into a fresh, grassy meadow that on this morning was covered with a heavy coating of dew. Almost immediately, as we popped into the open, we were greeted by a white-tailed deer scampering across the meadow. She paused for a moment to check us out, and allow a picture, then continued her bounding journey up the hillside on the opposite side of the canyon.

The canyon that surrounds Centennial Trail has been carved by Beaver Creek. Don’t think of it like the slot canyons in Utah with narrow chutes and high walls. This is a wide U-shaped canyon with tall stone outcrops and ponderosa forest that stands 100 feet on either side. The creek is small, no more than 5-6 feet wide, and meanders gently through the center of the grassy meadows.

The canyon, and therefore the trail, twists and turns around and through the high outcroppings thereby presenting surprises and new meadows around each corner. There are a handful of wooden foot bridges that cross Beaver Creek. It was the dew that got our feet wet… not the creek.

Because of our early start just past dawn, we were chasing the sun around every corner. The grasses and wildflowers were waking up to the morning brightness and warmth as the dew glistened from the verdure tips. We found bluebells and larkspur, shooting stars and ragwort. The water in the creek is fresh and clear, assuring the lush meadows will be nourished.

Just as we would pop into the bright sunshine, so too would we enter shady areas with ponderosa canopies and cool air emanating from the flowing stream. It was, to put it simply, an absolutely delightful morning, our best at Wind Cave.

Moving from the shadows into the light.

At about the two mile mark you reach a trail junction at the last creek crossing. Centennial Trail continues up the hill and on for another 109 miles to northern South Dakota. You want to get on Highland Creek Trail (#7) at this point, for just about a quarter mile, until it reaches another junction with Lookout Point Trail (#4). Take a right turn (to the south) on Lookout Point Trail at the second junction and you will stay on it for the remainder of this hike.

When you turn onto Lookout Point Trail, it begins a moderate climb for about a half mile through the pine forest and back up to the ridge level. When you clear the forest, voilà, you are on the prairie. You did put on sunscreen and a hat didn’t you? Because you won’t get any more shade as you cross the prairie.

The trail now turns in a westerly direction, so the morning sun is behind you, and you’re no longer staring right into the brightness like you do in the canyon. It’s breezy. There is a near-constant wind over the wide open plains. Better tighten your hat strap under your chin.

The flowers are different now too. They are less the ephemeral varieties, and more of the small shrubs and herbs like milkvetch.

After about a half mile on the prairie you begin to hear it. It starts as quiet chirps, then as you continue it evolves into a chorus, and then a crescendo as you walk right through prairie dog town. These little guys really give it their all to warn their friends and siblings that big ole human interlopers are in the neighborhood. They really put a lot into it. With each chirp, their tails bob up and down, like cranking a water pump. It’s humorous to watch.

The trail winds among rolling hills on the plains, and the prairie dog town seemingly goes on for a mile. We happened upon one lone bison grazing on a hill to the south of us. I wondered when the bison run across the grassland if they ever step into the myriad of prairie dog holes and injure themselves. Maybe they just don’t run as much as we see on TV.

The rolling plains are home to prairie dogs, bison, and pronghorn.

Most of the other hikers we saw on this day we passed on the prairie. They had started later than us, and were headed the other direction. Probably there were others behind us as well that we just never saw because we were on the same pace. Even on a Friday in June, we mostly had these trails to ourselves. I think most of the Wind Cave visitors are going underground to see the caverns. That means more solitude for those of us who like to explore above ground.

After about two miles of crossing the prairie, the trail makes a decidedly northern turn and heads for home along the final half mile. There’s a dip into a narrow barranca with a different creek and scrubby vegetation, then a final climb back up to the original starting point in the ponderosa forest.

In summary, this moderate hike of just over five miles was, to us, the most enjoyable of the three hikes we did in Wind Cave National Park. It offers a good overview of all that the park’s above ground trails have to offer, including rolling plains, verdant meadows, wildlife and wildflowers, and a sense of grand expanse. I would recommend this hike for your entire family.

By the way, there is no requirement within Wind Cave to remain on designated trails. So, if you happen upon an area that you deem worthy of extra exploration, feel free to blaze your own path.

I don’t normally promote businesses in my trail reports, but Dave and I had such an excellent experience at the Econolodge in Custer that I had to mention it. The staff that works there are all super friendly, helpful and knowledgeable. We stayed with them for six nights and were completely satisfied. The price is very reasonable and the amenities are all that we needed. If you’re staying in Custer, SD I highly recommend the Econolodge.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

The Needles Highway in western South Dakota’s Custer State Park is more than a 14-mile road — it’s a spectacular drive through pine and spruce forests, meadows surrounded by birch and aspen with fields of bright wildflowers, and rugged, almost other-worldly, granite mountains. The road’s name comes from the needle-like granite formations which seem to pierce the horizon along the highway.

Allocate plenty of time to enjoy this roadway. Needles Highway is best enjoyed at a slower pace. Take your time. I can assure you that you’ll want to stop often — perhaps around every turn. Whether to take pictures, or to simply stare in awe with your mouth agape, the scenery is incredible and inspiring.

Wildlife is plentiful too. You are almost guaranteed to see bison. Look too for pronghorn, prairie dogs, mule deer and bighorn sheep. If you get off the road for a short nature walk, your chances improve even more.

The highlight of the trip is Cathedral Spires, a natural grouping of eroded granite pillars, towers, and spires. There are six distinct ridges of pillars with pine forest scattered throughout. The area was designated a National Natural Landmark in 1976. As you can imagine, Cathedral Spires is quite renowned with world-class rock climbers, but even you and I can hike among these majestic formations.

The Needles Highway culminates at Sylvan Lake, a 19th century reservoir across Sunday Gulch Creek that is popular with recreationists of all stripes. Take the time to walk the one mile trail that follows the lakeshore and offers opportunities to sunbathe on a granite outcrop or dip your toes in the cold, fresh mountain water.

If you find yourself in western South Dakota, you must make time to travel The Needles Highway. Your visit just isn’t complete without it. Following are a few photos to give you a feel for what to expect.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Located in the remote northern corner of Wind Cave National Park, Boland Ridge Trail crosses the wide open prairie, then a series of ridge climbs offer panoramic views of the Black Hills, the Red Valley, and the western South Dakota plains beyond. Because of the isolated nature, elk and bison are often seen along this trail. In fact, we had to cut this one about a mile short because of bison on the trail. My brother Dave and I hiked Boland Ridge Trail on Thursday, May 24, 2018 beginning about 10:00AM and finishing at 12:30PM. Our plan was to go to the end of the trail and turn around, but two groups of bison made it difficult to pass, so we stopped short.

As you drive the dirt roads through the heart of Wind Cave National Park, keep your eyes peeled for wildlife. Just in the few miles between Rankin Ridge and the Boland Ridge trailhead we saw pronghorn and buffalo grazing on the vast prairie. Keep your ears open too for the chirping sound made by the prairie dogs. Oh, and please don’t run over them with your car. They will come out on the roads.

The Boland Ridge trailhead is in kind of an odd place. It’s simply out in the middle of the prairie, miles from anywhere. There’s a sign there and a few parking places off the side of the road, otherwise it’s just as nondescript as the rest of the grassland.

For the first half mile the trail traverses the prairie, crossing a small creek once. There is an old trough by the creek, perhaps formerly used by cattle ranchers. The only grazing these days is by the wild animal variety.

This area is called the Red Valley, and you can see for miles in every direction. They call Montana Big Sky country, but you get the same effect here on the South Dakota plains. You can see from horizon to horizon.

There are two small hills to be climbed, each of about 200 feet elevation gain, neither particularly steep. On this day in late May there was a variety of wildflowers including phlox and puccoon.

The pines that line the ridges here were unfortunately damaged by a grassland wildfire that swept the area in 2010. Amazingly the pine needles did not burn, but they all turned an orangish/brown hue that detracts from otherwise delightful natural beauty. Black scars are a sign of the flames that licked the tree trunks.

As we topped the second ridge the wide expanse of the rolling hills came in to view. So too did an obstruction just 50 yards away, right in the middle of the trail. A small family of bison was grazing right where we were headed. There were six right in front of us, and another two about a hundred yards farther away. They didn’t seem threatening, but we certainly didn’t plan on walking right through them.

The trail curved right through this small herd of bison.

To our left was a small hill that would take us safely around the bison, while also offering a nice view of our surroundings. There also happened to be some nice rocks at the top of the hill, perfect for sitting, and a great opportunity to change to longer lenses on our cameras. We even found some rocks under a pine tree that made a perfect lunch spot.

As we photographed the bison and enjoyed our sandwiches, we looked ahead toward the next ridge on the trail. There was a dip into a small valley, then another climb back up to the level where we were. And… there were more bison over there too!

It was looking like if we wanted to hike to the end of Boland Ridge Trail that we would have to continue mingling amongst the giant mammals that outweighed us by ten times. Discretion became the better part of valor, and we decided it was best to just cut this hike short and be content with what we had seen so far.

The return was easier as it was mostly downhill. Even more flowers were popping out now as we entered afternoon, and there were several golf and tennis ball sized mushrooms growing on the prairie grass.

When we got back to the car we decided to continue out park road #6 northward where it enters the adjacent Custer State Park. To our right was a family of pronghorn, totally oblivious to our presence. The wildlife around Wind Cave are very accustomed to people.

In summary, this moderate hike of three to five miles will give you a good idea what the above ground terrain of Wind Cave National Park is all about. They say there are usually elk here. We didn’t see any on this day, but we sure got a treat with bison and pronghorn. Because of the remote nature of this trail, you are very likely to have it all to yourself.

I don’t normally promote businesses in my trail reports, but Dave and I had such an excellent experience at the Econolodge in Custer that I had to mention it. The staff that works there are all super friendly, helpful and knowledgeable. We stayed with them for six nights and were completely satisfied. The price is very reasonable and the amenities are all that we needed. If you’re staying in Custer, SD I highly recommend the Econolodge.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

When you’re looking to get a good overview of the “above ground” features of Wind Cave National Park, what better way than to climb to the highest point. Fortunately, that’s easy to do with the Rankin Ridge Nature Trail. This one-mile loop takes you to an old retired fire tower with views into the Black Hills and as far away as The Badlands. Watch for wildlife and wildflowers along the way. My brother Dave and I hiked Rankin Ridge Trail on Thursday, May 24, 2018 beginning about 8:30AM and finishing at 9:15AM. This was a nice tuneup for a longer hike later in the morning.

Rankin Ridge Trail Map

We stopped at the Visitor Center for Wind Cave National Park to talk with a friendly ranger about above ground hiking recommendations. Since this was our first visit to the park, he suggested three, to get our feet wet. Boland Ridge in the far reaches of the park and known for wildlife, the Lookout Point/Centennial loop in the heart of the park, and this one that features access to a fire tower at the highest point in the park, and therefore offers a good overview of all that surrounds the ridge.

We chose to do Rankin Ridge first. It’s easy to get to and on the way to Boland Ridge. Plus it’s only a mile loop.

The trailhead is a short drive up a hill off Hwy 87 in the northern part of the park. It starts deep in the woods, in a pine forest, and climbs gently to the ridge. We were treated immediately, just past the trailhead, to a wealth of wildflowers including bluebells and pink shooting stars. I’ve seen white shooting stars before, in the Smokies, but these were my first pink ones.

Soon, there are views to the north through the trees of the craggy Black Hills in the distance. Some of those crags would be on our hiking agenda later in the week. As we approached the ridge line, the terrain got rockier. A summer intern project had done a nice job years ago building a stone stairway through the outcrops.

As we topped the ridge the wide expanse of the South Dakotan horizon came in to view. Far in the distance to the east is Buffalo Gap, a natural pass through the mountains in this area. Beyond that, even farther east, we could just make out the Badlands area where we had been the days before.

There’s a fire tower at the high point, still climbable. Far below there was a lone bison grazing amidst the pine forest. From this perch we could see the vast prairies, one of which would be our next hike, the canyon area we would be hiking the next day, and the forest that is intermingled amongst it all.

The return to the car is a simple stroll down the old dirt road that used to carry the park rangers to the fire tower when it was still in use.

This short nature trail was a good recommendation by the park ranger. It helped us get a good feel for the lay of the land that makes up Wind Cave National Park. This is typical western South Dakota — with prairie, hills and forest. Most people come to Wind Cave for the massive caverns found below ground. Don’t cheat yourself, however, by not exploring the fantastic scenery that is also found above.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Back in the 1960’s when I was in my mid-teens, my family took a cross-country western vacation that included stops at many of the scenic and picturesque national parks along the way. Included among those was Badlands National Park, the first stop on our trip.

I remembered all my adult life the fascination I had with the Badlands, and promised myself I would return some day when I was better able to appreciate what I was seeing. It took 50 years, but I made it.

The welcome wasn’t particularly pleasant as we encountered flash flooding and sloppy Badlands mud as detailed here, but when things calmed down I was no less awestruck than I had been as a youth.

My brother Dave and I hiked quite a bit while we were there, but some of the most delightful landscapes were seen while we were simply driving the loop road waiting for things to dry out.

I was especially impressed with the Yellow Mounds area of the park, a chromatic masterpiece of earth and sky. The wildlife was plentiful, particularly bighorn sheep. We even got to see the brand new 2018 lambs as they came out to play in public along the bluffs that parallel the roadway.

There will be other reports about hiking within Badlands National Park, but here I just wanted to share a few photos that will perhaps entice you to include South Dakota whenever you are out exploring. Don’t wait 50 years. Enjoy!

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

There are three short trails that share the same trailhead on the far eastern section of Badlands National Park. The Window and Door Trails are boardwalks that explore the spires and buttes of the Badlands Wall. Notch Trail passes through the Wall and offers a great view of the White River Valley. There is even a fun rope ladder that takes you to the canyon rim as you head to the “Notch.” Some of the best views of The Badlands can be found on these short trails. My brother Dave and I hiked Notch Trail on Wednesday, May 23, 2018, and Door and Window on Monday, May 28th. Each were something we did at the end of longer hikes to fill out the day.

These three trails are on the right hand side of this map.

Notch Trail

Notch Trail begins by wandering through a canyon, surrounded by buttes and pinnacles on each side. About half way through you reach a rope and log ladder on your right that climbs to the rim about 40 feet above the canyon. The first half of the ladder can be walked, but as it steepens, getting on all fours is required to maintain balance. It really isn’t particularly dangerous.

Once on the rim, there is some exposure to the edge. Pay attention, and watch your step, as you don’t want to tumble into the canyon. Those with height fear may have a little trouble here.

After three quarters of a mile you reach the “Notch,” a dead end of the trail. From this vantage point you can see far away into the White River Valley and toward the small town of Interior, located just outside the southern boundary of the park. Later, as you continue south on the Badlands Loop Road, pause at the next pullout and look back over your left shoulder to see the “Notch” perched up on the cliff.

This is an out and back hike, so return is via the same pathway. It’s a little more difficult getting down the ladder, just because you’re backwards.

Door Trail

A wheelchair accessible ¼ mile boardwalk leads through a break in the Badlands Wall known as the “Door” and to a view of the Badlands. If you aren’t bound by a wheelchair, though, you should definitely continue out onto the clay surface beyond the boardwalk.

Follow the numbered stakes for an additional quarter mile into the heart of the maze of arroyos for the best views. While not the most colorful spires in the park, I think this section of the Badlands Wall is the most intricate and detailed. Definitely one of the best views to be found.

Window Trail

This very short trail leads to a natural window in the Badlands Wall with a view of an extremely eroded canyon. This one is also on a boardwalk for wheelchair access.

WARNING The Badlands has a very arid climate with no trees for shade. Summer in particular can get quite hot in the afternoons, so carrying plenty of water and slathering on the sunscreen are important precautions. A hat and sunglasses are also recommended. Watch for quick moving storm clouds and take rain gear if the sky looks threatening. Sturdy boots will help protect your ankles from cactus spines, and from the mucky mud that forms after a thunderstorm. Otherwise, have fun!

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.