When looking for some WNC high country scenery and perhaps refreshing cool air on a warm day, one of the first destinations I think of is the Black Balsam area at milepost 420 on the Blue Ridge Parkway. There are half a dozen mountains here that stand above 6,000 feet, with encompassing 360° views from their treeless summits. This land that lies between the Shining Rock and Middle Prong Wildernesses is pierced by the Art Loeb Trail, a favorite of anyone who visits the Pisgah Ranger District.

My hiking pal Ken and I have walked this region many, many times over the years and we still come back for more at least once per season. If you’re looking for details about the terrain, here is my trail report, but for this post I simply wanted to share some photos of this visit on May 31, 2017. As you will see, the weather couldn’t have been better. There were quite a number of other hikers out and about that day with the same idea… to enjoy the glorious Blue Ridge Mountains.

We stopped a lot… to take pictures, to marvel at the breathtaking viewshed and colorful wildflowers, to enjoy a picnic-like lunch and each other’s company… simply to soak it all in. Time seems to stand still on the trail, but before we knew it we had finished the five mile loop and had recorded another fantastic memory.

Following is a pictorial essay of our day spent on Black Balsam and Tennent Mountains. Please feel free to leave your comments and suggestions below the gallery. Thanks for visiting!

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Deep in the heart of Shining Rock Wilderness is the namesake, a mountain made of quartz, standing more than 6,000 feet. On bright sunny days you can see the white quartz “shining” from miles away. The Cherokee called it Datsu’nălâsgûñ’yĭ, “where their tracks are this way,” that refers to a white rock that is said to have tracks of Tsul ‘Kalu and his children. There are a half dozen trails through the wilderness that meet at Shining Rock, but the most direct is the Ivestor Gap Trail. If you’re new to Shining Rock Wilderness, this is a nice introduction. You can then decide if you wish to explore some of the more remote and difficult trails that criss-cross the wilderness. Access is from the Black Balsam spur road at milepost 420 on the Blue Ridge Parkway. We enjoyed the trek to Shining Rock on Thursday, June 25, 2015 beginning at 8:30AM and finishing at 12:50PM. Our plan was to take the Ivestor Gap Trail from Black Balsam Road directly to Shining Rock, and back.

After more than a week of 90+ temperature, it was time to head into the high country for some cool mountain air. Shining Rock Wilderness fit the request nicely. With a half dozen peaks over 6,000 feet, and most of the rest over 5,000, it is guaranteed to be 10-15° cooler than the surrounding valleys. The high country is the place to go for summer hiking in the Southern Appalachians.

You may ask, why would anyone want to hike nearly five miles out and five miles back to see a white mountain? Because it’s there. Because the white quartz is really cool. Because of the great exercise. Because of the peace and serenity that exists in the wilderness. Because of the wonderful things that are found along the way. Because of the amazing view of the expanse of Shining Rock Wilderness. Because it is far better than anything you can find on your couch. C’mon. Get out there!

The Ivestor Gap Trail begins at the dead end of Black Balsam Road, a turnoff at mile 420 of the Blue Ridge Parkway. As you approach the parking area, the trail is on your right. It is actually an old logging road, leftover from the early 20th century when this entire area was valued for its exceptional timber. You will notice right off the bat how rocky this road is. Don’t expect that to change, at least until you get to Ivestor Gap itself, roughly two miles out. It might be a good idea to wear high top hiking footwear to help with ankle support.

Because of the wonderful things that are found along the way

From May until September it seems there is always something blooming along Ivestor Gap Trail. Whether it be the tiny bluets or chickweed early in the season, the laurels and azaleas in early summer, or the tall goldenrod or thistle of autumn — you are bound to catch something colorful in the corner of your eye. On this particular day, we were treated to mountain laurel, morning glory, and flame azalea.

The morning glories are plentiful along Ivestor Gap. Be sure to arrive, umm – in the morning – to catch these beauties all through summer.

The Ivestor Gap Trail circles around the massive Black Balsam Knob as it heads toward Shining Rock Wilderness. Most of the views along the trail are to the west, including of Sam Knob and Fork Mountain, and the many drainages that plunge toward the Pigeon River. This is also blueberry country. You will notice thousands of low bushes, and the picker trails that criss-cross the hillsides. Hundreds of folks come up here in late August to fill themselves with the indigo lusciousness.

Approximately two miles along you reach the boundary of Shining Rock Wilderness. Bear (no pun intended) left here to stay on the Ivestor Gap Trail. Then, a short quarter mile later you reach Ivestor Gap. When we arrived we were greeted by about two dozen teenage girls who were on a camping trip with llamas. They all wanted to tell the story of the black bear who prowled around their camp the night before looking for goodies. They were really excited and gleeful, having a real wilderness experience to share forever.

There are many trail options at Ivestor Gap. You can take the Art Loeb Trail up and over 6,000′ Grassy Cove Top. If you don’t think you want to continue further into the wilderness, you can also take the Art Loeb back south across Tennent Mountain and Black Balsam, returning to the parking area. For the hike we’re talking about here, though, bear left again to stay on the Ivestor Gap Trail.

Because of the peace and serenity that exists in the wilderness

For the next couple miles you will be proceeding along the Shining Rock Ledge. The trail gets more comfortable here, free of the constant rocks that are hard on the feet. You will pass under dark rhododendron tunnels, then pop out into the bright sunshine with views across the valley of Middle Prong Wilderness and the giant Richland Balsam Mountain. Then back into the soothing canopy of mountain laurel and azalea, and the exquisite forest aroma of spruce and fir.

It is peaceful and quiet here. You can hear your foot steps… and your heart beat. There are no roads for miles. This is wilderness. The sounds are natural. The sweet song of a thrush perched on a rhododendron branch. The chip, chip, chipping of a red squirrel as he defies you to take his picture. The howls of coyotes echoing across the ridges from who knows how many miles away. Now is the time to use your senses. Listen. Smell. Look. Taste. Touch. It is all there for you.

Two miles beyond Ivestor Gap you will begin to notice white rocks scattered near the trail. This is quartz, and it means you are nearing Shining Rock. You will pass a trail coming up from your left. This is Little East, and it eventually goes all the way to the Daniel Boone Scout Camp. Continue straight, though, for another hundred yards or so to what I like to call the wagon wheel trail junction.

There are trails coming from seemingly every direction that meet here at the base of Shining Rock. There is Ivestor Gap Trail of course, but also the continuation of the Art Loeb through The Narrows and on to Cold Mountain. The Old Butt and Shining Creek Trails also meet here. It’s all like spokes on a wagon wheel.

Because the white quartz is really cool

The final spoke is the spur trail that goes to the summit of Shining Rock. How do you know which one it is? From the clearing in the center of the wagon wheel, look for a sign that denotes the Art Loeb Trail and says 4 miles to Cold Mountain. Use that to get your bearings. Now turn to your right and walk about 50 feet and look for a trail on your left. That is the one you want.

The summit is about a quarter mile distance and 230 feet of climbing through thick, dark and aged rhododendron canopy, past large quartz boulders, and over evergreen needles deposited by decades of seasons. We could hear voices for the first time since Ivestor Gap. There were others up top. There are multiple crests on the summit. We stopped on one of them to enjoy our lunch and leave the one at the point to the other fellows. The photo at the top of this post is Ken settling in on the quartz for his picnic.

Because of the amazing view of the expanse of Shining Rock Wilderness. This is the view south. You can also see The Narrows ledge off to the west, and in winter you can see Cold Moutain and Mt. Pisgah.

Once we finished lunch, the other guys had moved on, so I was able to go out to the point for the amazing views of Shining Rock Wilderness. I am always in awe of this setting. You are sitting at 6,040 feet, on shiny, bright white quartz. You can see nearly a dozen more mountains surrounding you that stand above 6,000 as well. On this day, the spruce krummholz that shares the summit with the white stone was an amazing bright green and smelled heavenly. The foliage here is very, very healthy.

A word of warning though. Because thousands of folks have crawled on Shining Rock over the centuries, the quartz has been worn quite smooth. Combined with the steep angles and awkward slopes, it can be an extreme slipping hazard. You won’t fall hundreds of feet, but if you do fall, you are likely to bang something that will leave a mark. So be careful. You don’t want your companion to have to haul you all the way out of the wilderness.

When you get back to the wagon wheel junction there are so many options available to you for the return. If you had planned a shuttle hike and left multiple cars at multiple trailheads, you can try any of the trails I mentioned above. However, our plan was to simply return the same way we came.

To summarize, this hike is a great introduction to many of the features that Shining Rock Wilderness has to offer. Although somewhat long, it is really quite easy, being almost totally flat, until the last quarter mile to the summit of Shining Rock. It’s great hiking exercise. Ken and I were able to complete the nearly 10 miles in just over four hours at a leisurely pace. It can be kinda hard on the feet because of all the rock on the old logging road, but just wear the appropriate shoes and you will be fine.

This hike is only available when the Blue Ridge Parkway is open, so it is seasonal. You are likely to be able to get access to the trailhead April through November. Check the Parkway closures site before making plans.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Backcountry wilderness. If you really want to get a taste, then this hike is for you. Starting at the remote Camp Daniel Boone, the northern terminus of the Art Loeb Trail enters Shining Rock Wilderness immediately. As you begin the nearly 2,000′ ascent to Deep Gap, on the southern shoulder of Cold Mountain, you will cross numerous streams as you hike through hardwood forest. Expect extremely rugged terrain with exceptional long-distance views and evergreen and heath vegetation as you cross from Deep Gap to Shining Rock Gap on a razor-edged stretch of trail appropriately called The Narrows. The loop returns as you descend Little East Fork Trail and follow this prong of the beautiful Little Pigeon River back to the scout camp. Whew! This hike occurred on Thursday, April 17, 2014 beginning at 9:10AM and ending about 5:35PM. Our plan was to take the Art Loeb Trail to its junction with Little East Fork Trail, then return on Little East Fork to the scout camp to complete the loop.

I should make note here before starting on the trail report that the map above is not complete. About the time we reached the junction of the Art Loeb Trail with the Little East Fork Trail, the battery on my smartphone died, so the recording of the GPS track was terminated. It’s a shame too, because I had a battery charger with me. I was simply enjoying the companionship and beauty of the wilderness so much that I didn’t even think about the battery.

So, to complete the map above, I have hand-drawn the approximate track of descent along the Little East Fork Trail. The map statistics combining the actual track up, and the virtual track down, total a little more than 13 miles. It was our estimate, however, that this hike is actually closer to 15 miles.

It takes awhile to get to the Daniel Boone Scout Camp. It is truly out in the rural country, but isn’t that what you’d expect for wilderness hiking? The Art Loeb Trail is near the back of the camp, and is well marked with a large sign.

The morning was great for a long hike, brisk, with just a touch of overcast. When I was here once before, on the first mile or so of the hike, I could tell it is an area near a wealth of seasonal campers. The trail then was very well maintained with lots of rock and log stairs to aid with climbing. The camp counselors no doubt enjoy having the free camper labor to take care of trail maintenance.

This time of year, though, before the boy scouts show up in droves, all the debris strewn about by the heavy winds of winter left the trail littered with twigs and sticks, and several downed trees. It’s a steep climb right off the bat, then the trail takes a series of switchbacks, jumping nearly 1,200 feet in the first 1.5 miles.

Our crew of three two-legged and one four-legged pedestrians moved at a casual pace through a thick hardwood forest on the way to Deep Gap, and in mid-April with the leaves still off the trees, we could see some of the surrounding mountains, as well as what lie ahead of us on the trail. As we rounded each succeeding ridge, Deep Gap still looked a long way up there.

We crossed Sorrell Creek twice, the first time after about a mile and a half, the 2nd another mile later. It had been a very wet winter in the Blue Ridge so there was plenty of fungus, lichens, molds and mosses growing on everything that had a surface. What totally surprised us was the acres and acres of ramps we came upon. Now don’t you go digging them up just because I told you they are there. This is designated wilderness. The forest rangers will spank you.

Though I’ve yet to hike this stretch of the Art Loeb during the green season, I’m told that there is a great deal of poison oak in this area. So take your own precautions as appropriate.

The Art Loeb Trail climbs a total of about 1,800 feet to Deep Gap in roughly four miles with the first part and the last part being the steepest. In between is a gradual grade. There are a couple stretches where the trail meanders along as it follows an old logging road. There is a spring near Deep Gap, so when you come upon it, know that you are close… about 2/10 of a mile. That last bit, though, will severely test your legs and lungs.

Deep Gap is a perfect place to take a breather. There are logs there, and a fire pit, and an open area to stretch your legs. We all took off our packs and shared some nourishment while resting for the next climb into The Narrows. Deep Gap is also the way to the summit of Cold Mountain. There is a spur trail there that takes you northward the final mile and a half to the top of that famous 6,000 footer.

We took about 20 minutes at Deep Gap, to eat and drink, and to get ourselves rested for more serious climbing. There is no directional sign, but the Art Loeb turns to the right here, now heading due south and up. It’s another thousand feet of hard climbing between Deep Gap and the highest point in The Narrows, 5,869′ Stairs Mountain. We were in complete sunshine now on a glorious day for hiking the backcountry.

As you pass through The Narrows, keep in mind that you are a long way from anywhere. There is no quick way to get to where you are. So be very careful as you traverse this extremely rugged and remote terrain. Obviously you don’t want to get injured, but think of the search and rescue folks who have to get to you from miles away in any direction. Just my public service — please be careful when hiking in The Narrows.

Perhaps a half mile, or less, above Deep Gap, The Narrows begin. The terrain suddenly has many large granite outcroppings. It becomes apparent that you are on a precarious ridge. It isn’t cliffs, but if you fell, you would roll for quite some time. The laurel and rhododendron are thick and choking. The steps up will strain your groin and hip muscles. Sometimes you have to scramble on all fours.

When you begin to see the scattered spruce and balsam, you are nearing the first overlook, and oh my, what an overlook it is. We were graced with a crystal clear day that enabled us to see all the way to Great Smoky Mountains National Park, more than 50 miles away. We could see Mt. Sterling and Mt. Leconte in the Smokies off to the west just as clear as if we were there. To the south is the massive hulk of Richland Balsam, the highest point on the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Climbing to the northeast side of the overlook we were presented with the south summit of Cold Mountain, and far in the distance, the tower-topped point of Mt. Pisgah. The combination of the two is the photo you see at the top of this post. Cold Mountain on the left, Pisgah on the right. Click it for a larger image.

After this magnificent view, the trail begins roller-coastering along the razor-thin ridge line. You will drop down 100 feet, then climb up 200, then drop down, and then back up. Lather. Rinse. Repeat. It is quite tiring. We had to stop for a number of breaks to catch our breath and rest our legs. The terrain is quite demanding.

After about a mile you finally get off the narrow ridge and back to more of a forested trail. Don’t think, though, that the worst is over, because now you have to climb up Stairs Mountain. I’m not afraid to tell you that by the time we reached the summit I was huffing and puffing. It’s tough. It truly tests your stamina. Fortunately for me, on this day I passed the test.

Once you cross over Stairs Mountain the worst of the exertion is over. It’s a rolling stroll for the next couple miles to Shining Rock Gap through a thick spruce and rhododendron canopy. You’ll know you’re getting near the namesake Shining Rock as you begin to see boulders of white quartz poking up out of the ground here and there.

The gap is a major trail junction. You can go up on Shining Rock from here. The Old Butt and Shining Creek trails meet here. The Ivestor Gap and Art Loeb trails also meet here. We continued southward on the Art Loeb for just a couple hundred more yards until the junction with the Little East Fork Trail.

The upper half of Little East Fork Trail is a gentle descent through the remains of a long ago fire. The forest changes from spruce and balsam to deciduous trees as it drops further into the drainage. Much of the trail is lined with young beech saplings, the last to lose their leaves. The golden glow of the still-clinging beech leaves brightens the path and prods tired legs ever onward.

After a couple miles you’ll begin to hear the faint rush of the river below. As you continue downward it gets closer and louder. The trail steepens and the terrain becomes more of a ravine as you approach the river. You’ll know you’re close when you start seeing backcountry campsites near the trail.

When you reach the river you have to cross. On this day, the water wasn’t particularly high, but high enough to cover my boot tops if I had just waded across. Scoping out crossing points, there looked to be two promising spots. One, that was in shallower water but with rocks that were further apart, and another with rocks that looked promising for hopping, but in deeper water. I chose the latter. Ken went first across the shallow crossing and made it without a hitch.

My first step from the bank to a big rock was a long one, longer that I had sized up. So there I was, straddling the current with one foot on the bank and the other on a slippery rock. As I swung my back leg over to join my front, I lost my balance, and you can guess the result. Sploosh! My whole left side, from shoulder to toes, was immersed in the cold mountain stream and my own adrenaline. It certainly was refreshing.

Y’know, the Meanderthals motto is, “If you’re gonna be dumb, you better be tough.” Well, I toughed it out. Ken helped pull me out of the drink and I finished crossing to the other side. There didn’t appear to be any pain, just wetness, and a sheepish grin. Creeks are my nemesis. Dave made it across safely behind me with Grace, and then they all waited while I changed my socks and poured part of the river out of my boots.

Back on the trail in another 10 minutes, we were now hiking directly beside the Little East Fork of the Pigeon River, but about 50-60 feet above. There are an amazing number of waterfalls and cascades over the two and a half mile length back to the scout camp from the crossing. It is a stunning river. Too bad the trail is so high above the whitewater. Some day I will go back with a tripod and clamber down to river level just for photos of this magnificent stream.

With wet clothes and bruised ego, the last couple miles were kind of a slog for me. Thankfully I had the natural beauty of the river to take my mind off my inconvenient situation. The last quarter mile is on Little East Fork Road within the bounds of the scout camp. We passed hundreds of tent platforms along the way. This place must really be rockin’ in summer when the camp is in full swing.

In summary, this is a long, hard hike that offers rewards around every corner. If you like forest hikes, it’s got that — hardwoods below Deep Gap and along Little East Fork and evergreens above 5,000 feet. If you like vista hikes, it has that too. The views on a clear day are remarkable. Expect to be able to see at least a 50 mile radius. And if you like water feature hikes, then the last few miles along Little East Fork are filled with waterfalls and tumbling cascades. There’s really something for everyone on this special wilderness loop. If you have the stamina to go for eight hours, then I definitely recommend this hike.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

When the Blue Ridge Parkway reopens each year in early spring, it is great to get back into the high country at milepost 420. That means the Black Balsam area and Shining Rock Wilderness. An oft overlooked trail on the west side of the wilderness is Little East Fork, a twisty path that follows the Little East Fork of the Pigeon River from Shining Rock Gap to the Daniel Boone Boy Scout Camp. Not a particularly difficult hike, it is however quite long. This hike occurred on Tuesday, April 8, 2014 beginning at 8:00AM and ending about 1:30PM. Our plan was to take the Ivestor Gap Trail to Little East Fork Trail and search for an elusive meadow along the ridge between Shining Rock and Birdstand Mountain.

It was a wonderful pleasure and privilege to get out on the trail with new hiking companions. Unfortunately, the weather was not very cooperative on this day. Usually in this space I will detail the full trail report, but there isn’t a whole lot to tell this time. It was very, very foggy — and cold, and wet from overnight rain — so we didn’t accomplish what we set out to do. We never found the high mountain meadow we were seeking. We only hiked perhaps a mile, mile and a half of the Little East Fork Trail because of the conditions, and decided to just turn around. Still, it is always a joy to simply be in Shining Rock Wilderness, especially with new friends.

The first part of the hike from the Black Balsam parking to Shining Rock Gap on the Ivestor Gap Trail has already be reported, so no reason to repeat. Instead, this time I will share a small photo gallery to give you a feel for what Shining Rock Wilderness is like as the seasons begin to change from winter to spring. Click any of the photos for larger images.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

The Black Balsam area of Pisgah National Forest is surrounded by Middle Prong Wilderness on the west, and Shining Rock Wilderness on the east. Some of the best hiking found in Western North Carolina lies in this high country just north of the Blue Ridge Parkway. At the end of Black Balsam Road at milepost 420 on the Parkway, the Ivestor Gap Trail will take you deep into this rugged, untamed backcountry. There are lots of spur trails used by the seasonal blueberry pickers that wind through the hollows and across the ridges. There is also the Fork Mountain Trail, a 6-mile track that will take you all the way to Sunburst Campground. About half way to Sunburst is Birdstand Mountain. When you see it, you’ll understand the name. Join Meanderthals as we explore the blueberry and rhododendron bush country between two wildernesses. This hike occurred on Tuesday, December 18, 2012 from 10:00am to 3:00pm. Our plan was to take the Ivestor Gap Trail to Fork Mountain Trail and on to Birdstand Mountain. For a return we would continue on to Ivestor Gap, then up and over two sixers, Tennent Mountain and Black Balsam Bald on the Art Loeb Trail.

It was a beautiful day in the high country: bright sunshine, nearly cloudless sky, a crisp 35°, and… WIND.

Black Balsam Road is a great jumping off point for a series of terrific trails that wander around and over the half dozen sixers that dot the landscape. Half way up the road the Art Loeb Trail crosses. To the west you can hike to Chestnut Bald. Take Art Loeb to the east and climb to the summit of Black Balsam Knob, then Tennent Mountain, and if you care to continue, far beyond to Grassy Cove Top.

At the deadend of Black Balsam Road is a parking area for trails that go west to Sam Knob and Little Sam, and further around Flat Laurel Creek. To the north Ivestor Gap Trail takes you to the gap, then to Grassy Cove, and if you’re really bold you will enter Shining Rock Wilderness and head to The Narrows.

On this day though, my friend and I were going to explore some of the trails that take off Ivestor Gap Trail and head into the backcountry to the northwest. This small triangle of Pisgah National Forest splits Middle Prong Wilderness to the west and Shining Rock Wilderness to the east. We eventually hoped to find Birdstand Mountain.

It was cold, so much so we pulled out the extra layers and headgear before we even left the parking area. Combine the mid-thirties temperature and wind gusts, the trail being in the shadows of Black Balsam Knob, and the hard rain from the day before, and we had to dodge the thin coating of ice on the myriad of puddles. Sunshine would be our friend. After 20 minutes we were able to round the big bend in the trail and finally get the warming sun at our backs.

Neither of us had ever taken any of the trails to the northwest (left) off Ivestor Gap, so we kept our eyes peeled for anything resembling a trailhead. Even though we weren’t in designated wilderness yet, we didn’t expect much in the way of trail markers anyway. The Forest Service planners do a good job here of leaving well enough alone. They don’t muck up the area with signs and blaze paint, but as a result, people do get lost.

We saw our first apparent trailhead about a mile into the hike, soon after we rounded that bend. There was a stand of old fir trees, some still alive, some simply a solid white hulk of their former selves. It became obvious soon that this was not maintained trail — the blueberry and rhododendron bushes dominated the hillside. Sam Knob was to our left, and the massive 6410′ Richland Balsam was far away to the northwest.

There was a path to follow at foot level, but at core and shoulder height we were pushing away brush with our arms. Different, and kinda neat in a way, we both commented that this semi-trail would be really rough in summer when all these bushes were full to the brim with their leaves, flowers, and fruit.

This trail wasn’t on our map, so we decided to name it the Blueberry Trail. We presumed the trails back in here were worn by blueberry pickers who come in August to enjoy the ripe fruit. We kept our map out to maintain our bearings, eventually deciding that we were on a small ridge above Sam Branch, a creek that drains to Pigeon River at the foot of Sam Knob. This wasn’t the Fork Mountain Trail we were looking for, but we decided to continue anyway just to see what we could find.

What we found was the point of the ridge we were on. I had never seen a clearer view of Richland Balsam. It is a massive mountain, with very broad shoulders and sweeping ridges that drop into the wilderness below. But I could also see beyond it further into the Great Balsam Range and beyond toward Tennessee. They say on a really clear day you can sometimes see Clingman’s Dome in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. I’m not sure how I would know if that’s what I was looking at, but we sure could see mountains I had never been able to see before when in this part of Pisgah National Forest. It’s all about angles and point of reference.

Turning more to the northeast, to our right, there was another larger, parallel ridge with a clearing in a gap. Still not quite sure if that was the Fork Mountain Ridge we were looking for, we were nonetheless curious, so we decided to head back and check it out.

We got back on the Ivestor Gap Trail and continued our search for trailheads to the left. Perhaps a little less than a half mile beyond our previous foray, we came upon another left turn. Actually almost an about face, it headed northwest into a small black balsam spruce grove. By now it was approaching lunch time, so we found a nice sunny spot out of the wind, and plopped down on the grass for a respite. That wasn’t all we plopped down on. As I pulled out my thermos of hot soup, I noticed the piles and piles of deer scat. Oh well, we are Meanderthals after all.

After a rest and some nourishment we continued on into the spruce forest. Just as we passed through, we reached what I would call the thickest, gnarliest rhododendron thicket I’d ever seen. It was at least ten feet tall, with twisted trunks and branches going every which way like a drunken lattice. I can’t imagine what the trail builders must have gone through decades ago. After 100 feet or so we cleared this thicket and entered a different variety of rhodo scrub.

Even though this trail seemed a bit better maintained, we eventually got back to the same exercise of pushing the blueberry and rhododendron bushes out of our way. These were taller, above our heads. We couldn’t really see anything in any direction except up, but we pressed on. We came to a small clearing and were able to collect our bearings. And then straight ahead, there it was.

It was a small knob of a mountain covered with rhododendron and other scrub. And you know what? It looked just like a bird stand. You know those duck blinds that hunters build to hide in when they are out waiting for water fowl? That is exactly what this small wart on the ridge reminded me of. Whoever came up with the name Birdstand Mountain was spot on. It looked to be only a half mile away, so we pressed on, knowing for sure this time that we were now on the Fork Mountain Trail.

Bushwhacking all the way, we reached the Birdstand in about 20 minutes. Unfortunately, there really wasn’t much to see because it was still covered with brush that was just too tall for us to peer over. We could make out Grassy Cove Top to the east, and the very tip-top of Cold Mountain to the north. Otherwise, we were surrounded by green, gnarly bushes.

The trail started heading down, down, down past the Birdstand, and we followed it for another 15 minutes. But, we had set a time limit for ourselves of 12:30, so we didn’t quite reach the gap with the clearing that we had seen from the point on Blueberry Trail. That’s a hike for another day, in less winter-like conditions, although I wonder if this trail is even passable when the leaves are out.

We got back to Ivestor Gap Trail about 1:15 and had a decision. We could call it a day, and head back to the car, or we could continue on to Ivestor Gap, then up and over Tennent Mountain and Black Balsam Knob on the Art Loeb Trail. It did seem to be warming somewhat, so we opted to go for it and tackle the big loop.

I always enjoy seeing familiar landmarks during different seasons. I have been to Ivestor Gap and the sixers in early and late spring, mid-summer, and several times during the fall. Just three days short of winter solstice, this would be the latest for me, so I was curious to see the wheat-like coloring of the tall grasses and shrub that cover the balds.

When we got to Ivestor Gap, jumped on the Art Loeb and headed south, suddenly we were on the windward side of the mountains. The higher we climbed, the fiercer the wind. I feel confident some of the gusts were in the 40-mph range. It was tough going. Surprisingly I wasn’t particularly cold. The layers were doing a great job of keeping my core warm, and the thick silk/merino combo balaclava I had on my head was working perfectly.

Every other time I’ve crossed Tennent Mountain, I’ve come from the west, from the Black Balsam side. So it was interesting climbing up the eastern flank. The views of Mt. Pisgah are fabulous, and of Grassy Cove Top. Then the Graveyard Fields area to the south comes into view, and Looking Glass Rock on the other side of the Blue Ridge Parkway. Despite the biting conditions, I like being in the high country in winter because the sky is so much clearer. You can see miles and miles further because there is no summer haze.

I’d love to be up here some time after a snow fall. The problem is the Blue Ridge Parkway closes when there’s snow, so it would be truly difficult to get there. Perhaps I should take up cross country skiing.

Once you’re standing on the summit of 6020′ Tennent Mountain be sure to look directly to your north. Far in the distance you can see the very large quartz deposit that gives Shining Rock Wilderness its name. Beyond Shining Rock is Cold Mountain, another of the sixers that make WNC so enjoyable. Looking down, to the northwest, I could see Birdstand Mountain. In all the times I’ve been on Tennent Mountain, I’ve never noticed it before. Now that I’ve been there, it’s another landmark that helps me understand the terrain.

We didn’t stay on top very long. The wind encouraged our descent. Continuing westward the Art Loeb drops down off Tennent into a saddle, then begins climbing again up Black Balsam Knob. Much of the trail is in a trench surrounded by rhododendron scrub, so it’s difficult to see much until you get up a couple hundred feet. Once you do though, the entire Blue Ridge opens up in every direction. It is marvelous.

I’ve already written an entire trip report about crossing Black Balsam Knob and Tennent Mountain, so I won’t repeat all the details. I will reiterate, though, that no matter the season this is a remarkable hike, one of my favorites. I have probably been on the Art Loeb Trail across Black Balsam Knob more than any other trail in Western North Carolina.

It was exciting to learn about Fork Mountain Trail and Birdstand Mountain. Perhaps some day I will try that hike from the Sunburst Campground end. I even enjoyed the bushwhacking we did on Blueberry Trail. The view of the Great Balsam Range is the best I’ve yet seen. Ivestor Gap Trail has so many options for short, medium and long day hikes. Go to Birdstand and return, or make a loop of it like we did. Go all the way to Shining Rock, or even to Cold Mountain if you want to overnight camp. You can’t go wrong in this land between the wildernesses.

Update April 2, 2014: Meanderthals took another trek to the Birdstand to see what it’s like in early spring. Because of the elevation, it’s still too early for wildflowers, but the heath was beginning to green some. The trail itself is barely passable as the thick blueberry bushes are really overtaking the terrain. It’s a good idea to wear long pants and long sleeves, and gaiters if you have them. Once this area begins greening in a couple weeks it will be pretty much impassable until probably Thanksgiving.

Across the Blue Ridge Parkway from Black Balsam Road is an unmarked trail that leads to some excellent overlooks of Pilot Mountain and the Daniel Ridge drainage. This trail isn’t on any of the national forest maps, but it is well-maintained and perhaps used to be a section of the Mountains to Sea Trail. We explored for probably a half mile, then returned.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

The southeast corner of Shining Rock Wilderness is filled with rivers, creeks and streams tumbling down from the mountains that rise above 6000 feet in the high country. Included among these waterways is the East Fork of the Pigeon River, otherwise known as Big East Fork. A trail follows the river from Hwy 276 to the confluence with Greasy Cove Prong and beyond. This Big East Fork Trail passes several coves and small waterfalls as it climbs nearly a thousand feet through dark and deep forest. The final push is a climb out of the wilderness from Bridges Camp Gap up to the Blue Ridge Parkway. This is one of those great wild places that Shining Rock is known for. Our hike occurred on Thursday, July 26, 2012 from 8:15am to 11:15am. The plan was to take the Big East Fork Trail along the Pigeon River to Greasy Cove, then join the Bridges Camp Gap Trail up to the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Even though this is doable as an up and back hike, we chose to use two cars, one at each end of the trail. We started by taking my car to the Looking Glass Rock Overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway at milepost 417. Then we took my companion’s vehicle off the parkway and down Hwy 276 to the lower trailhead. We would be hiking from lower to upper, or top to bottom on the map above.

The easiest place to get lost on this hike is before you even start. It’s where you park your car and look for the trailhead. There are two distinct parking areas within a few hundred feet of each other on the left side of Hwy 276. One is on the east side of the river, the other on the west. The larger of the two parking areas, and one marked with a large national forest sign as Big East Fork, is not the one you want. That goes to Old Butt Knob and Shining Creek Trails. For this hike, you want the smaller, unmarked parking area that is a tenth of a mile before the highway bridge on the east side of the river. If you see the highway bridge and the Big East Fork sign, you’ve gone too far.

WARNING This is a wilderness trail! There are no blaze marks to identify your path, so you should definitely have a compass and a map with you. You can get lost. The trail itself is very rocky and rooty. It is quite easy to stumble and fall, or twist an ankle, or worse. The rocks on the river bank and in the river are treacherous and slippery. They may look completely safe to walk on, but they may tip or teeter from your weight. There is a thin coating of moisture and moss on the rocks that make them extremely slick. Even with the best gripping shoes, you are very likely to slip and fall. You don’t want to hit your head, so trekking poles or a hiking stick would be useful for support. Having said all that, this is a beautiful hike along a wild river. Just be careful.

When you plunge into the forest, it’s like that old game from decades ago, Colossal Cave Adventure. You’ve entered a maze of twisty little passages, dark and deep. The forest is very dark. It’s made up of red and striped maple, hemlock, yellow birch, dog-hobble, and thick, thick rhododendron. The trail passes through occasional bogs and springs, so mud will cling to the grid on your shoes. It isn’t long before you hear the rush of the East Fork of the Pigeon River as you reach Rocky Cove.

On this lower section, the river is rather benign. There are lots of bowling ball and beach ball sized boulders in the river, but not much water in mid-summer. I began to notice the tulip poplars, their large elephant ear leaves reaching full size this time of year. I also noticed how tricky those river rocks were going to be. With the mud on my shoes and the slick surface of the rocks, I could see that taking photos was going to be a slow and careful process.

About three-quarters mile upriver from the trailhead, Shining Creek flows into the river from the west. That’s the picture at the top of this post. Click it for a larger image. There’s a pretty good campsite there. In fact we saw a makeshift lean-to that someone had probably put together quickly in one of the nasty thunderstorms we’ve had here recently. We also noticed the first of what would be many great swimming holes. Oh, to be young and carefree again.

The next stream is Bennett Branch, this one coming down from the east. There’s a switchback in the trail as it climbs away from the river for the first time. This gets you around where Bennett Branch spills into the river. The crossing is not a problem. Just plant your feet squarely on the rocks and logs that cross the creek.

What’s that? Suddenly we could see light, quite unusual in this thick forest. For the first time, we got a view of something above the tree canopy. To the southwest is Raven Cliff Ridge, a large rocky cliff that stands several hundred feet above the river level. This ridge splits the drainage from Shining Creek on its north side and East Fork.

The trail continues following the river and crosses areas of exposed bedrock that have been carved over the ages. My friend has a 10-day backcountry adventure coming soon in King’s Canyon, so he was practicing by carrying his fully loaded backpack. These granite slabs make great spots to rest and take a load off. On a cool spring morning I could see myself sitting on these rocks for hours, lost in my surroundings.

Next is another series of coves, these known as Little Buckeye and Big Buckeye. The forest floor is covered with fern and galax. There are campsites here, and more of the inviting swimming holes. We passed a group of junior high type teens, loaded down with full packs, and smelling of a few days in the wilderness. It was a relief when we also passed their chaperones about 100 yards behind.

As the river and the trail take a southeasterly turn, it gets a little steeper. From here the river begins to rage with whitewater as there are small waterfalls seemingly every couple hundred yards. The river has to carve its way through narrow channels in the bedrock, making for beautiful sights and sounds. With all this allure also comes danger. The terrain is quite rugged. The river banks are much steeper and trickier to navigate. It takes some careful scrambling to get in position for photographs.

The river then makes a big sweeping curve so that we were now heading pretty much due west. Looking at the topo map I could see why. It’s flowing around Nobreeches Ridge. There’s bound to be a story there, one of those the old-timers tell so well. If there are any locals out there who know the naming etymology of Nobreeches Ridge, please use the comments below and share the tale.

After about 3.5 miles on the trail, it suddenly becomes Bridges Camp Gap Trail. This is the boundary of the Shining Rock Wilderness, as the river is now in Pisgah National Forest and the trail has a different name. You’ll also notice the yellow blaze marks on trees now that you’re out of the wilderness. Not much further and the trail comes to the confluence of Greasy Cove Prong with East Fork. The Prong comes down from the west and there are several campsites. There is a rocky crossing here that I have written about before in the Greasy Cove trail report. That hike was a fond memory, the creek crossing not so much.

The trail takes a decided southerly turn and begins another steep uphill climb. There is one of those Forest Service trail markers here to point the way. Good thing, because otherwise the trail is kinda hard to notice because of all the campsites.

There is one more area of campsites along the East Fork and then the trail leaves the river for good. Don’t be fooled into thinking this is the crossing for Greasy Cove Trail. My companion tells the story about doing so the first time he came here and spending an hour on the other side of the river looking for a nonexistent trail. So if you’re coming down the trail from above, go past this spot and cross at the next series of campsites.

The final quarter mile is a climb away from the river and toward the Blue Ridge Parkway. You will notice the sound changing from rushing water to roaring Harley-Davidson engines. The trail spills onto the Parkway just a couple hundred yards from the overlook where we parked my car. We were the 2nd car there early in the morning. Now, just over three hours later, the pullout was packed with teens heading to nearby Skinny Dip Falls. It’s probably odd to the Parkway tourists who try to pull into this overlook to peer at Looking Glass Rock that there’s nowhere to park.

We finished off the day by driving back down to Big East Fork to pick up my friend’s pickup and conclude another successful hike. Ah, such a life!

I truly enjoyed this hike. The river is beautiful, and rugged, and exciting. The hike is not particularly difficult, as the climbing is relatively steady. There aren’t any really strenuous stretches. This is another trail I will relish exploring seasonally. I look forward to the beautiful colors of the hardwoods in the fall, and I’d like to try this hike in winter just to be able to peer through the trees at the surrounding wilderness. We took our time and were very careful on the slippery rocks and roots, and made it through without incident. That would be my warning for you. Be aware of the potential for slips and falls and you too will appreciate Big East Fork in this little corner of Shining Rock Wilderness.

Update July 10, 2015: Made another trip along this beautiful river with Griztrax. The rosebay rhododendron was in full bloom, the fresh mountain water was flowing well, even the humidity was tolerable. We also found fresh monarda and honeysuckle along the way, and the occasional snail or mushroom to pique our curiosity. We did a shuttle hike top to bottom choosing the nice easy relaxing route so we had plenty of time for pictures… and reflection.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Milepost 420 on the Blue Ridge Parkway is where you will find Black Balsam Road. It’s a short drive to a spruce forest where the Art Loeb Trail crosses the road and heads up onto the balds. This is North Carolina high country. There are several mountains greater than 6000 feet with treeless summits, affording spectacular 360° views of the surrounding Blue Ridge. I love it here. I can’t get enough of the natural beauty to be seen along the Art Loeb Trail as you cross Black Balsam Knob and then Tennent Mountain. The land is rich with blueberry bushes and rhododendron thickets, with mountaintop grasses and spruce groves as far as the eye can see. I will always keep coming to the Shining Rock Wilderness as long as I am able. This hike occurred on Thursday, July 5, 2012 from 7:45am to 11:50am. Our plan was to take the Art Loeb Trail up and over Black Balsam Knob, Tennent Mountain, then on to Ivestor Gap. From there we would climb Grassy Cove Top, then return to our car on the Ivestor Gap Trail.

The first part of this hike has already been reported. No sense in being redundant. So go to the Black Balsam and Tennent Mountain trail report to read about the first few miles, then return here to pick up on the back side of Tennent Mountain.

As much as I love this section of the Art Loeb Trail, it is only fair to warn you about trail conditions in the high country. This trail is extremely popular. Combine that with storm drainage, and the trail is very trenched across the balds. On occasion the trail rims will be shoulder height or deeper. Also, in summer, the mountaintop grasses grow 3-4 feet high and cascade over the trail. There will be long stretches where you will not be able to see your feet. This means you also can’t see the floor of the trail, so be careful of rocks and holes. In the morning, there is almost always a heavy dew on the tall grass, so long pants and long sleeves are recommended. You will get quite wet.

Now, having said all that, have I told you how beautiful it is? From the moment you pop above the black balsam spruce forest the Blue Ridge Mountains open up in every direction. It’s pretty hazy in summer, but in winter and spring you can see South Carolina, and Great Smoky Mountains National Park to the west 60 miles away. Other high mountains are clearly visible like Sam Knob, Mt. Hardy, Green Mountain, Cold Mountain and Mt. Pisgah. The majesty will take your breath.

As you begin the descent on the north side of Tennent Mountain you enter blueberry country. Some of the bushes have been here so long they stand as much as 10 feet high. In late summer, when the berries are fully ripened, there are hundreds of people in the wilderness competing with the bears and birds for the pickings. There’s plenty enough for everyone. They’re very sweet.

The trail winds through these tall bushes for roughly a half mile before approaching the clearing that is Ivestor Gap. There’s an interesting sight on the left, old dead spruce trees that have turned white. Only the trunks are left, and they’ve lost all pigment. There are clusters of these white trunks scattered throughout the wilderness.

Ivestor Gap is a major trail junction. The Art Loeb and Ivestor Gap Trails cross here. The Fork Mountain Trail comes in from the northwest and the Graveyard Ridge and Greasy Cove Trails come in from the east. You will almost always see tents pitched in this grassy cove, especially in August during blueberry season. More than once I’ve encountered lost hikers here who are so glad to see someone with a map. [hint]

Both the Art Loeb and the Ivestor Gap Trails head north from here into Shining Rock Wilderness. On this day, we were taking the Art Loeb to Grassy Cove Top. It is the northward trail on the right. You can also tell because it is the one going up. If you’re going deep into the wilderness to Shining Rock, The Narrows, and on to Cold Mountain, it is best to take the Ivestor Gap Trail and avoid the rollercoaster of all the mountains and gaps.

Shortly past Ivestor Gap, the Art Loeb enters a small pine forest that is the only time you won’t be in direct sunlight on this hike. You did remember to lather up with sunscreen before you started, right? Don’t get used to the shade though, it doesn’t last long.

The trail actually skirts around Grassy Cove Top to the east, winding around to approach the summit from the north. This is thick, thick laurels, blueberries and grasses. It’s very difficult to see your feet and the trail. Two in our party of three took a fall, including me. Fortunately, no harm done. Meanderthals do bleed, but our hide is tough. It comes with age.

The spur trail to the summit of Grassy Cove Top isn’t marked. You just have to keep an eye out for it on your left. You will be on the north side of the mountain and the spur takes off due south, upward. It’s very narrow, and not particularly well defined, even tighter than the Art Loeb was around the mountain. It may be easier to see in winter when the bushes and grasses are down, but this was my first time to this specific place.

It’s only a couple hundred feet climb in about a quarter mile up this thick, tight trail. As you approach the summit, it begins to clear out some. There are a few grassy areas with fire rings, although I wonder who in their right mind would camp on top of a 6000 foot bald. The weather is quick and dangerous. By now we were pretty hungry. Just about the time we were wondering if we should simply sit down on the grass, we reached a perfect rocky outcropping to rest our weary bones.

While we enjoyed lunch, I setup the tripod to grab some pictures of the amazing scene. Including Grassy Cove Top that we were sitting on, we could see five mountains that measure over 6000 feet. That’s the photo at the top of this post. You can click it for a larger view. Looking southward, Tennent Mountain, with Black Balsam Knob behind it were straight ahead. The double-peaked Sam Knob was to the southwest and further to the west was Mt. Hardy over in the Middle Prong Wilderness.

Even the clouds were beginning to cooperate. There were a few puffy whites beginning to form to help with distance perspective. This is one of those sights you want to stay and enjoy. With lunch and good conversation we stayed on Grassy Cove Top about half an hour, and unlike the rest of the hike, had the summit to ourselves.

We got to thinking that since there was a spur trail from Art Loeb up the northern side of Grassy Cove Top, there is probably one down the southern side too, back to Ivestor Gap. So we went looking. Sure enough, much to our delight, there was one. This would save probably 20 minutes on the return trip. What we didn’t factor in was how steep and rocky it would be.

And deceiving too. We came to several forks that ended up being false trails. With teamwork, checking each one, we were able to stay on the correct descent. And quite the descent it was, a whole lot steeper than the climb on the northern side. Lacking any switchbacks because it isn’t an official, maintained trail, it poured straight down the hillside. There were a couple times I had difficulty stopping my momentum and was literally running downhill, kinda dangerous in the rocky terrain.

We all made it down safely though and back to the soft grasses of Ivestor Gap. If you come out this way and choose to go up Grassy Cove Top on the southern face, the spur trail is about 100 feet north on the Ivestor Gap Trail from the crossroads. Keep in mind however how much steeper it is than walking around the mountain on the Art Loeb Trail.

Knowing it was all logging road the rest of the way back, it was time to zip off the wet bottoms of the long pants and get down to short sleeves. Temps in Western North Carolina have been in the nineties the past couple weeks, but it’s usually at least 10 degrees cooler in the high country. Still, by late morning it was getting warm.

It’s about 2.5 miles back to Black Balsam Road on a very rocky old logging road that is the Ivestor Gap Trail. Along the way you’ll pass several springs, if you’re short on water, and have a magnificent view of the Great Balsams Range off to the west. Otherwise, it’s mostly just trudgery hiking. The good news is it’s almost entirely flat, so your climbing for the day is over.

When you reach the parking area at the end of Black Balsam Road, you aren’t quite finished. It’s still nearly a half mile on paved road back to the Art Loeb Trailhead where you park. It is quite enjoyable though as you’re surrounded by spruce forest and have views off to the Flat Laurel area.

Unless you happen to get hit with some nasty weather, you really can’t go wrong up in the high country of the Blue Ridge Parkway. I’ve been coming at least once every season for years and still love it as much as the first time. It’s fun to become familiar with the landmarks, and see what the vegetation looks like at different times of the year. I highly recommend this casual four hour hike to Grassy Cove Top. It’s only moderately difficult and filled with stunning mountain scenery. By the way, I left a Summit Stone along the way.

Updated August 25, 2016: The dog days of summer is a good time to hit the high country in the Black Balsam area of Pisgah National Forest on the way to Shining Rock Wilderness. It’s usually quite a bit cooler than the valleys below, although not on this particular day. I’ve never felt it so hot above 6,000 feet.

The clouds seemed to be chasing us as we climbed up and over Black Balsam Knob, Tennent Mountain, then wound our way through the blueberries to the foot of Grassy Cove Top at Ivestor Gap. It would be clear, then a big cloud would waft over, and then the sun would be relentless. Such is the high country. It changes in a heartbeat. See what you think of the pictures below. Feel free to leave your comments as well.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Perhaps it seems I’ve been spending quite a bit of time hiking in the eastern section of Shining Rock Wilderness in recent months. I can’t help myself. The terrain is wild, the forests ever-changing, the views exhilarating, and the exercise invigorating. The elevation changes dramatically — more than two thousand feet. The air is cool and refreshing even during the summer. It’s enjoyable to follow the wildflower progression from bluets and trillium to catawba rhododendron, to mountain laurel and flame azalea, then white rhododendron, and on to the daisies, bee balm, and lady slippers. The landmarks have names like Old Butt and Dog Loser. These mountains have been here a lot longer than we have, but they keep calling me to explore them. This hike occurred on Thursday, July 7, 2011 beginning at 9:15AM and ending about 3:45PM. Our plan was to start at the Big East Fork parking area, enter Shining Rock Wilderness, and catch the Old Butt Knob Trail up the mountain to Shining Rock Gap. There we would meet the Shining Creek Trail for the return down the mountain to complete the loop.

View Old Butt Knob and Shining Creek Trails Loop, Shining Rock Wilderness in a larger map

This is a beautiful hike! This is also a very strenuous hike, so you better check your conditioning. The combination of the two made for a day of great fun and enjoyment. The first half mile from Big East Fork is along the East Fork of the Pigeon River. As the trail begins to climb it is important to look for the Old Butt Knob Trail on the right. It is easy to miss. There is a small cairn there to mark the turn, but it is quite easy to walk right on by. Straight ahead takes you on the Shining Creek Trail, the return trail when doing the loop counterclockwise like my friend and I did. Once on the Old Butt Knob Trail, it begins climbing immediately up Chestnut Ridge. It goes up 1500 feet in the next half mile. Pause to ponder that for a moment.

The farther I climbed up Chestnut Ridge, the more amazed I was at how well the Old Butt Knob Trail is maintained. This is a very hard trail. I can’t imagine it gets a whole lot of traffic to keep the pathway clear. So the volunteers who take care of this trail are to be commended. It is not only beautiful, but it is a joy to hike. The lower section is mostly hardwood forest. After about 700 feet of climbing the black balsams begin to appear. If you’ve never been in a black balsam forest, these fir trees are stunning. Almost always full and hearty, they also smell wonderful. It definitely helped take my mind off the burning in my legs and lungs.

Be sure to watch for the occasional small trail off to the left that goes out to a rocky overlook along the ridge. The first is perhaps 1/2 mile up and offers a view of Bearpen Ridge across the way. The trail is a little less steep the rest of the climb, only 700 feet in a mile. We found another side trail that took us to yet another rocky outcropping. There was a great place to have a seat and enjoy our lunch. From here we could see the summit of Old Butt Knob northwesterly to our right, then see the dip into Spanish Oak Gap, and then another steep climb up Dog Loser Knob. I loved the way we could see the upcoming terrain so we would know what to expect. Down below us to the south was the drainage of Daniels Cove, and directly in front of us to the southwest was Bearpen Ridge. It is quite identifiable because of the abrupt cliff that ends the ridge.

Lunch gave us enough energy to get through the next stretch of climbing to the top of Old Butt Knob. Once again the forest changed. The ground was grassy and we were treated to summer thistle alongside the trail. At 5600 feet we reached the summit of Old Butt Knob and began to see campsites and other small clearings. The fir and pine filled the visual and olfactory senses. It seemed as if the forest changed around every corner. We commented to each other several times how beautiful this trail was, and it just kept getting better and better. Despite being really sweaty and breathing very hard from all the climbing, I was thinking more about the abundant beauty that surrounded me that I was about fatigue.

About the only way to know you’ve reached Old Butt Knob summit is because the trail stops climbing and gets flat for awhile. There really isn’t a viewing area on top, but there are a few terrific wilderness campsites. The trail volunteers have done a great job of removing fire rings, so even the campsites look as natural as can be. There are nice level sites where you can pitch your tent right under a rhododendron or laurel thicket to get shelter from the wind and rain.

The trail actually dips for the next 1/4 mile or so as it drops into Spanish Oak Gap. And yes, the forest changes again to a brotherly mix of oak and pine. They grow side by side and wage friendly battle for the wealth of sunshine that bathes the ridge. It’s not long, though, before the climbing resumes and you have to recover the elevation lost in the gap. The trail enters an immense laurel thicket that helps one understand where this area got its name, Dog Loser Knob. If your dog wandered off into the laurels, you would probably never see it again. Just a word of advice. Do not go off trail in this area.

There is a great reward for the climb. At the summit of Dog Loser Knob there is another of those side trails to the left that opened up the entire expanse of the southerly Shining Rock Wilderness before us. To the southeast we could see the twin peaks of Sam Knob, with Black Balsam Knob just to its left. Straight ahead to the south is Grassy Cove Ridge, talked about in a hike a few weeks ago. Back to the east, on our left, we could see the fire tower on Fryingpan Mountain and Mt. Pisgah beyond. This is simply another fabulous vantage point on this splendid hike.

The rest of the Old Butt Knob Trail to Shining Rock Gap is flat and smooth sailing. We could tell we were getting close to Shining Rock when we began seeing small quartz stones along the side of the trail. Then suddenly the stones became boulders, and there we were. We climbed the Shining Rock Pinnacle again just to see how the foliage had changed since our last visit just a month before. The rhododendron was no longer in bloom and the greens were a darker shade, but it was nice to see The Narrows again and Cold Mountain. I love this area.

After scrambling back down off Shining Rock we had to find the Shining Creek Trail for our return hike to Big East Fork. Shining Rock Gap is a major trail junction. The Art Loeb comes here. The Ivestor Gap comes here. And the Old Butt Knob and Shining Creek Trails come here. They all meet in a small clearing with a sort of wagon wheel effect. It’s good to have a compass. Remember there are no trail signs or blaze markings in the wilderness.The Shining Creek Trail goes east. We encountered a lone camper as we started out Shining Creek. He seemed quite wary of us and didn’t have anything to say except to nod at our existence. A couple hundred yards up the trail, it takes a sharp left turn down some small log steps and begins a steep descent. This is another place where it would be easy to get lost. The natural inclination is to go straight, but the Shining Creek Trail drops down to the left.

As good as the Old Butt Knob Trail was, Shining Creek was a rude awakening. Suddenly the trail was very rocky and rooty, and wet. Runoff tends to use the trail, so there were lots of puddles and lots of mud. The trail is considerably narrower as well as curvier. There are a number of switchbacks. I slipped twice and even went down on my butt on one occasion. You could say I had an old butt knob… ok, maybe not. Like the Old Butt Knob Trail, Shining Creek is also a very hard trail, but for an entirely different reason. The good news was we were treated to an eyeful of wildflowers. We saw red, purple and white bee balm. We passed daisies, black-eyed susans and lady slippers.

After the first half mile of very steep descent, the trail picks up Shining Creek and follows it all the way to Big East Fork. The creek takes quite the journey down more than 2000 feet to the Pigeon River. There are a number of small waterfalls along the way. We happened to catch peak white rhododendron bloom time along the creek. There was literally a wall of white flowers that followed the creek the whole way down, quite a remarkable scene. As the creek, and the trail, finally reached flat ground there were a couple of relatively easy creek crossings. Once again, I had to prove I am a Meanderthal. There was a grapevine hanging right over the trail. I tested it for strength, seemed securely fastened up top, and said what the heck. I climbed the hill and swung out over the creek and screamed, “Weeeeee!!!” Yes, I am 58, not 5.

The last mile and a half of the Shining Creek Trail is flat, and as it would turn out, wet. We suddenly got dumped on. We rushed for the nearest rhododendron thicket to get out our rain gear and quickly covered up. The last 20 minutes of our hike was done in a downpour. We met three other hikers in this stretch who were just beginning their climb up into the wilderness for some overnight camping. I’m afraid they were in for a long, wet night. There is one last downhill section just before the trailhead that we had to take quite gingerly to avoid sliding to the car.

Best HikeYou will notice up top that this hike took 6.5 hours to complete despite being less than 8 miles in length. Sure we stopped for lunch, and pictures, but we also stopped for a number of breathers. Simply put, this is a very strenuous hike whether you take the loop counterclockwise as we did, or go the other way. It is going to be hard no matter what. But, it is extremely rewarding. The sense of accomplishment is paramount. The natural beauty of the wilderness is breathtaking. Even though the Shining Creek Trail was a little rough, the Old Butt Knob Trail was in such good shape that it was a total delight to experience. I will definitely do this hike again during a different season. I rate this as a best hike, and highly recommend it to anyone who has the stamina.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Looking at a trail map or topographic map, the area of this hike within Shining Rock Wilderness can be somewhat confusing. There is the Greasy Cove Prong, a creek that runs off of the Grassy Cove Ridge. The trail is called Greasy Cove, but it starts/ends at Grassy Cove Top. I think the guys who named the area may have had a touch too much huckleberry wine. Regardless of the befuddling names, the hike has a bit of everything for hiking enthusiasts. There are sections of hardwood forest, a couple creek and river crossings, a steady climb through delightful grass and fern ground cover, bushwhacking through blueberry and blackberry bushes, as well as rhododendron and laurel thickets, long distance views above 5800 feet, and even a cascading waterfall thrown in for good measure. This hike occurred on Thursday, June 16, 2011. We started at 9:15AM and finished at about 3:20PM. The plan was to start at the eastern trailhead at the Looking Glass Rock Overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway. There, the Bridges Camp Gap Trail connects to the Greasy Cove Trail where the East Fork of the Pigeon River and the Greasy Cove Prong meet. From there the Greasy Cove Trail climbs to the Grassy Cove Ridge where we would pick up the Graveyard Ridge Trail south to the Mountains to the Sea Trail. The final 3.8 miles back down to the parkway is along the MST.

View Greasy Cove Trail, Shining Rock Wilderness in a larger map

WARNINGThe first half of this hike on Greasy Cove Trail is in the Shining Rock Wilderness. There are no trail markers, signs, blaze spots or other means of following the trail. You can get lost. There are false trails, particularly at camping areas, that can lead you astray. It is very important to have a good topographic trail map and a compass. It is best to do this hike with companions, and you should always let someone back home know where you are hiking, and approximately when you intend to return, so they can notify search and rescue if you are gone a lot longer than expected. Also, there are two creek and river crossings on this hike. If the water is high, crossing can be treacherous. The rocks are very slippery and falls can happen suddenly… as I found out. Hiking sticks or trekking poles can be very useful for maintaining your balance when crossing the streams. The crossings are also the most likely spots to lose the trail, so study your surroundings carefully.

About 100 yards east of the Looking Glass Rock Overlook the Bridges Camp Gap Trail heads into the forest from a small grassy clearing on the opposite side of the parkway from the overlook parking. There is also a trailhead directly across from the parking area, but that one is the return exit point. About 1/4 mile into the woods, there is a trail junction where Bridges Camp Gap meets the Greasy Cove Trail. This is where the fun begins. The trail descends for 20 minutes to the unmistakable sound of water streaming down the mountainside. The first to greet us was the East Fork of the Pigeon River, really little more than a creek. There are several campsites along the sandy and rocky riverbank, as well as places to cool off on a hot summer day. Not much further we got to the sign that marked the Shining Rock Wilderness boundary. From here on there would be no markings, just hope the trail itself was obvious.

The night before there had been a significant line of thunderstorms move through western North Carolina. With the storms came very high winds and about four hours of steady rain. The river was swollen quite a bit more than its normal flow, and the trail was covered with green leaves blown from the hardwood trees that comprised the forest, an odd sight. It actually made for a nice trail cushioning. The rushing stream was another matter. It’s generally dicey crossing rocky streams anyway, but when the rocks that are used to hop and skip across are partially submerged, caution is paramount. The East Fork crossing was located alongside a campsite, so it wasn’t intuitive to determine we needed to cross. Seeing the exit trail on the other side of the river was really the only clue. That, and the topo trail map indicated we would be crossing the river somewhere.

Just going down the bank to the crossing was slippery. I knew this was going to be interesting. I slipped not once, but twice on the first few rocks but managed to stay upright. Just about the time my hiking friend asked me if I wanted to use his poles to get the rest of the way across, down I went. My left foot slipped off its perch and into the water and I fortunately landed on the softest part of my body. No, not my head silly. It startled me for a moment, but I took inventory, and decided I wasn’t hurt… just my pride. I immediately accepted his invitation to use his poles the rest of the way. After he tossed them to me, I was able to cross the remaining half of the river without further incident. Lesson learned. I always carry a spare pair of socks in my pack, so I paused for a moment to change into those, and I was good to go.

The trail begins its climb after crossing the East Fork. It’s hard to select the correct trail. There is another campsite on the far side, and lots of false trails where campers no doubt go into the woods for nature calls. The proper trail is straight ahead from the crossing, and climbs steeply up, up and away. The trail is now alongside Greasy Cove Prong, running just as hard and fast down the mountain, but not as big as the East Fork. Half a mile further and it was time to cross this creek. Again, there is a confusing trail decision. There’s a false trail up and to the left, but the Greasy Cove Trail goes down steeply to the creek for another rugged crossing.

Remember that lesson learned? This time I let my friend cross, and then toss me his poles. Piece of cake. I’m still debating whether to get some poles myself. I really like having my hands free. Perhaps an adventurous marketing rep from a hiking poles company is reading this (hint-hint). The next couple miles of Greasy Cove is the toughest part of the hike, but perhaps also the most beautiful. It climbs roughly 1200 feet in those two miles with few switchbacks. It’s definitely uphill. But all along the climb you see where this area got its name (I still think it’s supposed to be Grassy Cove). The forest floor is covered with a thick carpet of natural grasses and ferns with the trail just meandering its way up and through. See the photo at the top of this post. The soil here is as black as the grass is green. Eventually we reached the Grassy Cove Ridge (yes, now it’s called Grassy), and the foliage and vegetation began to change to a more hearty stock that can withstand wind and snow. We found a beautiful little opening on the ridge to enjoy our lunch.

After lunch we continued upward toward the ridge crest. There are a few brief stretches where the trail gets overgrown with blackberry bushes, but otherwise it is quite lovely. There is a delightful beech forest and a long, dark tunnel of rhododendron, laurel and old, old blueberry trees. Yes, they’re so big they have become trees. As we approached the ridge crest, the trail got the steepest it had been and our lungs were burning. It was well worth the climb though as we popped out into the clear and had magnificent views of Mt. Pisgah and the Pisgah Ridge to the east, the Graveyard Fields area to the south, and Ivestor Gap to the west. Now at 5800 feet, the mountain laurel and flame azalea were still in bloom. My friend and I began to tick off the places we had hiked in the past year, like the fire tower at Fryingpan Mountain. There were a dozen at least that we could see from this vantage point.

There are a couple small signs along the trail announcing the Shining Rock Wilderness boundary. The rest of the hike is contained within Pisgah National Forest. The trail forks, with the right fork going to Ivestor Gap. We took the left fork, now an old logging road that is known as the Graveyard Ridge Trail. This two mile stretch is totally flat, so it was a welcome respite after the tough climb up Grassy Cove Ridge. The road is very rocky from erosion and hard on the feet. It skirts the southeastern flank of Tennent Mountain and looks out on the Blue Ridge far into the distance. There was a nice breeze to cool us, and fantastic views to enchant us.

We came upon another trail junction. From there we had a great view of the Tennent Mountain summit and could see a large group, probably a hiking club, up top. We encountered a young couple coming up from Graveyard Fields. At this point we could continue straight along the Graveyard Ridge and eventually end up at Graveyard Fields. We could turn right, and go up to Black Balsam Knob, or take the left turn on the Mountains to the Sea Trail to return to our starting point. It is 3.8 miles from this junction back to the parkway overlook.

After about 1/4 mile, the trail began its plunge, just as steep as on the way up. Again the scenery changed with the elevation. We went through the scrub foliage, then the thick hardwood forest. Along the way we met four other young people with their dog. I don’t know that they were hikers as they weren’t carrying anything. There are a couple more opportunities to cut over to Graveyard Fields, but we continued in an easterly direction on the MST. With about a mile left in our hike, we heard it again… the unmistakable sound of rushing water. This time is was the Yellowstone Prong. The trail parallels the stream about 200 feet above on the right, then steeply drops to Skinny Dip Falls.

Skinny Dip Falls is a popular place with sunbathers, and there were certainly quite a few out on this beautiful warm June afternoon. There is a wooden bridge across the river at the falls. The final 1/3 mile is about a 200 foot climb that was quite taxing at the end of a nearly nine mile hike. The trail exits onto the parkway directly across from the overlook. I always wondered why there were usually so many cars parked at the Looking Glass Rock Overlook. Now I know. They are all down at Skinny Dip Falls catching some rays, and a, um, dip.

I have been volunteering with Friends of the Blue Ridge Parkway for a couple years now with their Adopt an Overlook program. So my friend and I stopped at our adopted overlook, Pounding Mill, at milepost 413.3 to do a little trash pickup and general maintenance. I try to get up there about every 2-3 weeks in the summer. I think it’s one of the best overlooks in the Pisgah district of the Parkway because it sits on a curve and has a 240° view of the surrounding Blue Ridge Mountains. All in all, a very nice day.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

This a continuation beyond the hike described in the Black Balsam Knob and Tennent Mountain trail report. The Art Loeb Trail continues down the north side of Tennent Mountain to Grassy Cove. There it meets the Ivestor Gap Trail for a lengthy hike into Shining Rock Wilderness. The area was named by the Cherokee for the large deposits of quartz found along what has become known as the Shining Rock Ledge. The Ivestor Gap Trail avoids having to cross up and over Grassy Cove Top, Flower Gap, and Flower Knob. Ivestor Gap reattaches with Art Loeb at Shining Rock Gap and goes through The Narrows and on to Cold Mountain and eventually the Daniel Boone Scout Camp. This hike occurred on Thursday, June 2, 2011. We started at 10:05AM and finished a few minutes before 5:00PM. The plan was to start at the Black Balsam Road parking area and take the Ivestor Gap Trail 3.7 miles to where it meets the Art Loeb Trail at Shining Rock Gap. From there we would cross as much of The Narrows as our stamina would allow, knowing we had to return the equal distance. The entire round trip was 13 miles.

View Ivestor Gap and Art Loeb Trails to The Narrows, Shining Rock Wilderness in a larger map

Even last year I wouldn’t have tried this hike. I simply didn’t have the strength yet to do these half marathon day hikes. I think what really encouraged me was continuing a regular hiking regimen even through the winter months. And you know what? I found that I really enjoyed winter hiking. Well, because I kept my fitness up, I felt ready to give this one a go and talked the other Meanderthals into it. One of our trio had already done this hike twice before, so we knew what we were getting ourselves into. It is long… as long as you want to make it… and we weren’t even going all the way to Cold Mountain. The good news is that 2/3 of the hike is flat. The bad news is the part that isn’t flat is very strenuous rocky ridge terrain.

The Ivestor Gap Trailhead shares the parking area with the Sam Knob Trailhead. The first 50-55 minutes of the trail follows an old logging road that winds around Black Balsam Knob on the right, and offers a great view of the twin peaks of Sam Knob on the left, as well as the Middle Prong Wilderness further into the distance. Right away we got a charge — we hit the rhododendron in full bloom. Yay timing! The photo at the top of this post is an example. Click on it for a larger view.

We sure knew when we reached Grassy Cove. This is a trail junction for four different trails. The Art Loeb and Ivestor Gap head north, the Greasy Ridge Trail heads east, and the Graveyard Ridge Trail goes south to Graveyard Fields. Other times I have been to Grassy Cove there were tents setup in the cove, but there weren’t any on this day.

As mentioned above, the Ivestor Gap Trail is a great alternative for avoiding a lot of unnecessary climbing. Some people like to hike the Art Loeb Trail just to say they’ve done it. However, over the next two miles the Art Loeb climbs over 5800′ Grassy Cove Top, then drops down into Flower Gap, then goes back up again to Flower Knob, then back down and back up to Shining Rock. Sure, there are some nice views of the eastern portion of the Shining Rock Wilderness from up top, but the simple fact is the Ivestor Gap Trail is totally flat until it gets to Shining Rock Gap. Yes, I felt I was in good enough shape to hike 13 miles, but why do unnecessary climbing when you don’t have to. Besides, the Ivestor Gap Trail turned out to be quite lovely too. Much of the trail was in a canopy — either thick rhododendron groves that were in full bloom, or a hardwood and balsam mix that filled the air with delightful aromas. Occasionally, we would get a peek through the trees to the west and down the Little East Fork of the Pigeon River drainage.

The Ivestor Gap Trail rejoins the Art Loeb at Shining Rock. It is a short, but steep 1/4 mile climb to the pinnacle of Shining Rock on a spur trail, a must see. Don’t miss this. The quartz is paper white, and slick, very slick because it is so smooth. It is absolutely appropriate to have hiking shoes with a good grip. There is a beautiful 180° westerly view of the black balsam forest that surrounds the rock. For the first time, our destination came into view. We could see the seemingly endless ridge of the Shining Rock Ledge and The Narrows sprawling across the horizon. It looked to be a series of ups and downs, but none more than 150 feet or so elevation change. Little did we know how steep those ups and downs would be. We enjoyed our lunch will sitting on this fabulous pristine wilderness pinnacle.

The easy part was over. As we continued northward on the Art Loeb now, the terrain became more rugged and less flat. We continued to see the white stones and boulders jutting out from the earth that gave this wilderness its name. After about 3/4 mile we reached Stairs Mountain on our right and the Shining Rock Ledge. The trail was a lot more narrow, and curvy, and we began to see that we were on a narrow ridge as the ground dropped down on both sides. Another nice surprise greeted us on this ridge as we were treated to lots of flaming azalea in full bloom. This native azalea tree has a blaze-like bright orange color to its blossoms. Beautiful! The trail kept getting rockier and rockier, and then the serious ups and downs started. This was hands and feet climbing, and sliding down on our backside. The trail itself became less obvious — except that it had to be on the ridge — everything else was down, down, down. I don’t mind telling you it was very fatiguing. We reached a point with a small overlook and stopped to suck some air. We all came to a consensus that we had probably gone far enough. After all, we still had to go the same distance back.

We took off our packs and sat down to rest. Our partner who had been here before thought he remembered another overlook that was not too much farther up the ridge. After a breather, he and I decided to push on. Our third stayed behind to keep an eye on the packs. In about 200 yards we were rewarded with a hazy westerly view. We could see the Daniel Boone Scout Camp in the East Fork Pigeon River valley below and Cold Mountain to our right. Straight ahead was ridge after ridge of the Blue Ridge Mountains. We pulled out our topo map to survey the terrain, and picked out some trails for future Meanderthals meandering. We didn’t stay long, then headed back to pick up our gear and begin the tortuous return back up, down, and over The Narrows.

When I got back to my pack, I changed into a dry shirt. I sure was thinking ahead when I packed that the night before. It was pretty hot and humid and even the moisture wicking material was saturated. The dry shirt gave me 10 more horsepower. It took us about an hour to get back through all the rough and tumble up and down terrain of The Narrows and The Ledge. About 2/3 of the way back up there was a strategically placed log that became home for a very welcome breather. Finally as we once again approached Shining Rock, the trail flattened out, and even though there were still four miles to go, we knew the worst was over.

Or so we thought. The farther we went, the more threatening the skies became. We began to hear thunder rumbling in the distance. Fortunately we were no longer on the ledge, but it’s never a good idea to be in the forest in a thunderstorm. We began to pick up our pace, and took turns leading. We could hear the thunder getting louder and closer from the east, and the wind began to pick up some. We reached Grassy Cove and knew we were now less than an hour away. There was another hiker laying on the grass looking at his trail guide book and his eyes sure lit up when he heard our voices. He was lost. He wanted to go to Cold Mountain to camp. His map was junk, so we pulled out our map and showed him how to get there. He was very grateful, but I just knew he was going to get nailed by this incoming storm later on.

Well, we almost made it. We were about 1/2 mile from the car when it began to rain. It was signaled by a thunder clap on top of Black Balsam Knob that made us all jump. We quickly pulled out the rain gear and then the hail started. As we were scurrying down the trail, we kept one eye peeled for any kind of shelter in case the hail stones got any bigger. Fortunately we made it back to the car without getting pummeled.

I’m happy I have now done this hike. Occasionally we like to test our limits, and this was probably just about right for mine in the physical condition I am at this stage of my life. Shining Rock is definitely a place worth seeing. It is beautiful. And The Narrows, if nothing else, is certainly exciting. Maybe some day I will really push myself and go all the way to Cold Mountain, but I’ve been there via the other end of the Art Loeb Trail. For now, I am content with what I accomplished.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.