Joyce Kilmer-Slickrock Wilderness straddles the North Carolina / Tennessee line near the southern borders of the states, with about 75% of its 17,000 acres contained in NC. Six trailheads provide access to more than 60 miles of trail within the designated wilderness, which typically follow ridge tops or drop into the shady drainages. Perhaps the most atypical trail though is the Slickrock Creek Trail to Lower Falls in the far northern corner of the wilderness. A series of dams on the Little Tennessee River nearly a hundred years ago created Calderwood, Cheoah, and Fontana Lakes providing recreational opportunities for those who visit this region. Slickrock Creek feeds the river and offers the setting for this hike. I joined the Smokies Thursday Hiker’s group on September 10, 2015 from 9:15AM to about 2:30PM to tackle this rugged wilderness trek. Our plan was to follow Slickrock Creek Trail along Little Tennessee River to Lower Falls on Slickrock Creek, then return the same way.

Most of my 2.5 hour drive southwestward to the far corner of North Carolina was undertaken in darkness, but the sun did rise in time for me to enjoy the magnificent views in “lake country.” Between Stecoah on Hwy 28 and the pre-arranged meeting place at Deal’s Gap is some of the most stunning scenery you will find anywhere in WNC.

As you pass the Fontana Dam area and then Fontana Village… as you make the first crossing of Little Tennessee River at the base of the massive grey-brown bluffs that overlook Lake Cheoah… as you wind your way in and out, up and down to Deal’s Gap (home to the infamous motocycle adventure known as “Tail of the Dragon”), you will likely find yourself in awe of the picturesque river valley and forest. This area is without question on my to do list for autumn foliage.

I was meeting up with a Tennessee contingent known as the Smokies Thursday Hikers for a foray into the northern confines of Joyce Kilmer-Slickrock Wilderness. For them, Thursday morning hiking has been a regular thing for years and years. For me, I was representin’ for North Carolina on my first trip with the group. I couldn’t have been greeted with a more warm welcome.

The sky looked threatening over Fontana Lake, but the combination of cold water and damp, warm air made for an interesting fog-shrouded setting. The Smokies national park is on the north side of the lake (right), while the south side lies in Nantahala National Forest.

We all did the meet and greet thing at Deal’s Gap then headed south and down on Hwy 129 to another crossing of the Little Tennessee. This one lies beneath the massive Cheoah Dam, made famous in the 1993 movie “The Fugitive” starring Harrison Ford. After escaping from a train in the Bryson City area, Ford’s character Dr. Richard Kimble eventually ends up making an incredible leap from the top of Cheoah Dam into the frigid Little Tennessee far below. An interesting backdrop for our trailhead for sure.

The Slickrock Creek Trail begins on the south side of this bridge, right after you cross it. There are no signs that mark its presence, just know that immediately after crossing the bridge you need to turn off Hwy 129 onto a short gravel road with minimal parking. The four vehicles in our group were stretched out a hundred feet along the side of the highway.

Just as we were all smiling for a group picture on the bridge in front of the imposing dam, the threatening skies decided to become more than just a threat. We all scrambled for rain gear and began hiking a few moments later all bundled up against the wet. Within a hundred yards we came to the Nantahala Forest sign that denotes the entrance to Joyce Kilmer-Slickrock Wilderness.

For the first two miles of this hike, in a northwesterly direction, the trail parallels the Little Tennessee, or as it is known in this area: Calderwood Lake. There are three dams in the region, part of the work done by the Tennessee Valley Authority nearly one hundred years ago. Fontana Dam created Fontana Lake at the southern foot of what would become Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Cheoah Dam, where we started, confines the river again several hundred feet lower, and then a few more miles downstream the Calderwood Dam creates the lake alongside this trail. Each has its own special appeal.

The forest is deciduous hardwood, a mix of buckeye, oak, hickory, fraser magnolia, and other aromatic varieties. It was nut season, as we saw the droppings of each along the path. So too did we find buffalo nut, a new one for me. These pear shaped nuts were about the size of ping pong balls and hid beneath the leaves of the host tree.

Along this two mile stretch the trail itself rollercoasters, though the elevation difference never exceeds 50 feet or so. We hollered at a lone kayaker on the lake below, and crossed a few very slippery man-made foot bridges over the occasional drainage tumbling down from the Unicoi Mountains. Our group of 11 tended to spread out along the trail as good conversation, and shedding of rain jackets on this very muggy day led to each setting their own comfortable pace.

The day started with umbrellas and rain jackets. That didn’t last long, however, as the very high humidity made us wetter from sweat than from rain.

After about an hour we heard that tell-tale sound of whitewater ahead. Rushing water in the forest is unmistakable. We were approaching Slickrock Creek, where it plummets with a force into the river/lake. Slickrock Creek is the state line between North Carolina and Tennessee. The trail turns decidedly to the southwest as it now follows along the NC side of the creek. This is drainage from Bob Stratton Bald, a scenic high-mountain vista we had enjoyed just a few short weeks before.

With the new direction, and new water companion, we also encountered much more treacherous terrain. Over the course of the next mile-and-a-half as we followed Slickrock Creek, we would gingerly navigate the layered strata that lines the gorge of this waterway. It became exceedingly obvious how this stream, and wilderness in general, got their name. It is VERY slick rock indeed. To make it even more difficult, it began to rain again. In fact, as we proceeded deeper and deeper into the wilderness, members of our group wisely chose to drop out at particularly gnarly obstacles along the way for safety reasons.

Between carefully chosen steps, though, we were treated to bright, beautiful cardinal flowers springing up from the creek bed. So too did we find the appropriately named hearts-a-bustin’, as well as teeny-tiny radiant orange cinnabar chanterelles mushrooms hiding within the thick carpet of verdant partridge vine. Many of these were flowers I had only heard about, or seen in pictures, but finally got to enjoy in person. It’s amazing really, the length of the wildflower season in the Smokies. Starting in late March, with varieties changing weekly through October, we are blessed to experience something blooming for our delight more than half the year.

By the time we reached the creek crossing just a quarter mile from Lower Falls, we were now down to only four of our crew. We paused to make sure we had our footwear ready, the electronics safely stowed, and our nerves properly prepared for the wet and wild passage across Slickrock Creek. On the other side of this boulder strewn, 30-foot-wide stream lies Tennessee, and access to our destination.

We wouldn’t be Meanderthals if we stopped now, so into the current we stepped. Surprisingly, the water wasn’t especially cold. The deepest point was probably no more than a foot, not even reaching our knees. Some of the rocks were like walking on loose, rolling, wet bowling balls, but mostly it was a piece of cake. All four of us reached the other side without incident… good news knowing my history.

The rest of the way to Lower Falls is simple. First we went beyond the falls for a view from above, then backtracked. We had to descend a pretty steep embankment about 20 feet to get to water level, and an island that was a great spot for lunch and the best view of the waterfall. Lower Falls is a twin waterfall, with each cascade separated by about 15-20 feet. I called them the North Carolina falls (on the left) and the Tennessee falls (on the right), as the state line is split right down the middle.

While we enjoyed lunch and our surroundings, to make things all appropriate, I sat on the North Carolina side of the island while the other three sat on the Tennessee side.

Thankfully the rain stopped, so we were able to relish the scene in relative comfort. From the base of the falls you can see the summits of the Unicoi Mountains high above. On the other side lies Cherokee National Forest and Citico Creek Wilderness. The Slickrock Creek Trail actually continues on, 12 miles total, to Wildcat Falls and Big Fat Gap. But this was today’s destination.

Fully nourished now, it was time to head back. We didn’t want the others to worry, or to have to wait too long for our return. We stopped briefly at a much smaller waterfall just off the trail that has a unique piano wire or angel hair drip. Once again, we all made it safely back across Slickrock Creek. It was time to put on dry socks and remove all the wet gear to make better time on the return trip.

Things did seem to go smoother. While still occasionally disconcerting, the terrain didn’t seem quite as treacherous on the way back. Perhaps I was more prepared for what to expect. There is one stretch where the trail is basically hanging on the strata with the creek only abut 3-4 feet straight below. I can imagine during the spring runoff that this may be completely underwater.

When we got back alongside Calderwood Lake, apparently there had been a release from the dam because a shroud of fog now covered the surface. Colder water, released from the dam, mixed with the warmer air produced an eery, but beautiful cloud in the woods. The forest was really, really green from all this day’s moisture.

The rest of the crew was patiently waiting when we got back to the trailhead. We swapped stories, patted each other on the back, and shared an ice cold beverage. It had been a really good day.

In summary, despite the conditions, I thoroughly enjoyed this hike. Good company, beautiful scenery, plenty of wildflowers and nuts, and a brand new place for me. Some in our group, particularly the older ones in their eighties, thought this a little too dangerous in the wet, slippery weather. Take that into account when considering the hike for yourself.

The drive to the location is stunning. I would recommend it no matter the season. The hike won’t wear you out physically, but it might wear you down mentally. You won’t be huffing and puffing from exertion, but you may get stressed by the nature of the terrain. Perhaps come on a dry day though, so the Slickrock Wilderness isn’t quite so slick.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Deep in the remote southwestern corner of North Carolina where the scenic Cherohala Skyway climbs to meet Tennessee at Beech Gap, the Bob Bald Connector Trail (54A) climbs a ridge through Nantahala National Forest to Bob Stratton Bald. One of the lush mountaintop meadows the Southern Appalachians are known for, Bob Bald as it is called, straddles a boundary between Citico Creek Wilderness and Joyce Kilmer-Slickrock Wilderness. During the green seasons Bob puts on a dazzling display of wildflowers with a remarkable array of colors that rival any other of the region’s garden spots. If you want to extend your hike, a web of trails take off from Stratton Bald enabling you to explore the wilderness territories and Unicoi Mountains that surround you. I met a group of Tennessee hiking friends on Sunday, July 26, 2015 for my first hike in this area. We started about 10:45AM and finished at 3:45PM. Our plan was to climb the Bob Bald Connector Trail to Bob Stratton Bald, then return. I also intended to visit the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest after leaving the group so I could witness the giant trees.

The Cherohala Skyway crosses through the Cherokee National Forest in Tennessee and the Nantahala National Forest in North Carolina. “Cherohala” comes from the names of the two National Forests: “Chero” from the Cherokee and “hala” from the Nantahala. Located in southeast Tennessee and southwest North Carolina, the Skyway connects Tellico Plains, TN, with Robbinsville, NC, and is about 40 miles in length. Elevations range from 900 feet at the Tellico River in Tennessee to over 5,400 feet near the state line at Haw Knob. It’s a delightful way to start your day whichever state you’re coming from.

There are several overlooks along the Skyway that offer photographic opportunities as well as trailheads for exploring the surrounding mountains and wildernesses. Most of these are labelled with a name and a sign, but the trailhead for this hike is not. The trailhead is between the two state line welcome signs at a place called Beech Gap. If you are coming from the NC side, it is on your right, the next pullout after the Benton MacKaye Trail crosses the road. This pullout is a forest service road with a gate, and there is room for 4-5 cars to park.

I was delighted to be meeting up with a great group of folks from Tennessee that I hiked with a couple times last winter, and I was excited to be exploring what was completely new territory for me. Despite having lived in WNC for a decade, I just hadn’t made it yet to this very farthest corner of the state. I’ve always wanted to, since hearing of the giant trees found in Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest. Serendipitously, I had even purchased a trail map only a couple weeks before. So when I was asked if I wanted to come, I jumped at the chance.

For the first two miles of this hike you’re on Forest Road 217H, passing along a ridge that demarcates Cherokee and Nantahala National Forests. On your left is Cherokee as well as Citico Creek Wilderness, and on your right is Nantahala. The road is lined in July with stunning bee balm, a native wildflower also known a monarda. We were treated to white ones, crimson ones, purple, and maroon. The name is certainly appropriate as the constant buzz made us aware of the bees getting drunk on nectar.

The forest road is on such a gradual decline that you hardly notice it. However, you will notice it on the way back when you are going uphill instead. There are low spots in the road where puddles and mud collect. Otherwise, it is a comfortable trail, one that meanders through dense hardwood forest. Eventually the road dead ends, and a series of trails fan out from the cul-de-sac.

This is the trail junction at the end of Forest Road 217H. The trail for this hike is the one on the right, labelled 54A, and named the Bob Bald Connector Trail.

Now it’s time to climb. For the next two miles the trail gains more than 800 feet. There are occasional brief level stretches along the way, but if you just grit your teeth and prepare for the exertion, it will be over in about an hour. In the meantime, enjoy all the wonderful sights like massive chicken of the woods fungus and clusters of turks cap lilies. Ferns dominate each side of the trail, and this time of year they are bright, bright green.

The single-track trail gets considerably more narrow the higher you get… some due to the terrain, and some to the plants encroaching on the tread. As summer continues to progress, many of the berry-type plants make themselves known including carrion plant and witch hobble. The snake root was in abundance as well. About two thirds of the way up you will pass through a dense and dark rhododendron tunnel.

There are more rocks and roots too, so with the combination of overgrowth and tripping hazards, watch your step. An occasional seep will be enough to give your pooch a drink, but probably won’t refill your bottle. Speaking of our furry little friends, it was nice to once again have Cowboy the Australian cattle dog along to keep us all in line.

You can tell when you are almost to the top when you see tall grass along each side of the trail. It is spreading from the bald and is a nice signal that things are about to get exciting. You will first pop out of the woods to a small meadow on your right with a picturesque view of the Unicoi Mountains. There were hundreds of blooming phlox, a mere sampling of what was yet to come.

As we marched about another hundred yards we reached the true mountaintop, a broad open expanse of grassland that was awash in a radiant fuschia glow. This was the largest field of phlox I had ever witnessed! Tens of thousands of these beautiful native wildflowers filled the senses. Add to that hundreds of turks cap lilies for quite an array of color. Gretchen even found a teeny, tiny club spur orchid hiding deep within the mountain grass.

Marti and Gretchen entering Bob Bald, an ideal setting for an Appalachian version of The Sound of Music.

There are blueberries on Bob Stratton Bald too. They were still a month away from being ripe, but it looked like a healthy crop of the sweet tasting morsels. The elevation here is above 5,300′ and a delightful summer breeze kept us nice and cool as we found a semi-circle of logs to sit and have lunch. Off to the north are the massive shoulders of the Unicoi Mountains, and to the east the tall dead trunk of an oak with a rope dangling from the top. We called this the Hangman’s Tree. That’s the picture at the top of this post.

The bald is named for Robert Stratton (1825-1864), whose family lived there in the mid-19th century. Bob’s father John Stratton (1799–1862) settled in the area now known as Stratton Meadows (atop the main crest of the Unicois near where Cherohala Skyway crosses the state line) in the 1830s. Bob eventually moved a few miles north of Stratton Meadows to the mountain that now bears his name.

While on Bob Stratton Bald you are in the Joyce Kilmer-Slickrock Wilderness, designated in 1975 and totalling 17,394 acres. There are other pathways that reach the bald within the wilderness including from Wolf Laurel where the Bob Stratton Trail climbs up from the east, and another that climbs Fork Ridge from Swan Cabin. The Fodderstack Trail continues northward for several more miles along the state line to Big Fodderstack Mountain.

Guarding the north edge of the bald is a beautiful stand of fraser fir that was planted decades ago when the woolly adelgid first began to pillage the fir and hemlock in the Great Smoky Mountains. So far (knock on wood) these have avoided that nasty fate. We hated to leave Bob Stratton Bald. There are times when you are fortunate enough to be at a place on the perfect day for a seasonal display. That seemed to be the case for us on this day with the sensational natural garden.

We had a great memory to take with us as we returned the way we had come. The connector trail actually seemed steeper on the way down, so be aware of the potential wear and tear. Remember too, that some of the forest road goes gently uphill, so if you are tired you’ll notice it. On the way back I talked with some of the others about how to find the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest. I wanted to see the big poplars. As it turns out, it was quite easy and best of all, right along the way.

When we got back to Beech Gap I said a fond farewell to my Tennessee hiking partners with a promise to get together again soon. I drove down the Cherohala Skyway to the entrance, then took a left. From there it is only two miles to the memorial forest.

This forest is one of the Nation’s most impressive remnants of old growth. The woods contains magnificent examples of more than 100 tree species, many over 400-years-old, and some more than 20 feet in circumference and 100 feet tall.

This 3,800-acre forest was set aside in 1936 as a memorial to the author of the poem “Trees,” Joyce Kilmer, who was killed in action in France during World War I. This forest, part of the Joyce Kilmer-Slick Rock Wilderness, is maintained in its primitive state. The only way to see the forest is on foot. A 2-mile trail leads to the Joyce Kilmer Memorial and loops through the giant trees. Unfortunately, there aren’t as many as there were when the memorial was founded. The immense American chestnuts were the first to succumb to blight, and the hemlocks have most recently been devastated by the woolly adelgid. Only the big tulip poplars remain.

On the long drive back home I had plenty of time to reflect on this wonderful day. I have no doubt I will be back to this corner of Western North Carolina many times. It is quite a long way from my home, so it may be better with overnights included in the future. The Cheoah Ranger Station for Nantahala National Forest is right along the way west of Robbinsville.

There is still so much to see and do. I only began to scratch the surface of this remote region of wildernesses. I passed literally dozens of trailheads right off the roads to and from. If you live in Eastern Tennessee, Western North or South Carolina, or North Georgia or Alabama, I highly recommend you get a trail map that includes Joyce Kilmer-Slickrock Wilderness and Citico Creek Wilderness. Then, get out there.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.