Transylvania County, North Carolina is known as “Land of Waterfalls” for good reason, as there are 250 unique cascades within a short drive of each other. Upper Whitewater Falls on the Whitewater River south of Sapphire is perhaps the most spectacular. There are two distinct overlooks of the 411 foot plunge taken by the river on its path to Lake Jocassee. Nantahala National Forest has developed a small park with family amenities for those who wish to view this spectacular wall of water. Eight short miles north of Upper Whitewater is Gorges State Park. An elevation that rises 2,000 feet in only four miles, combined with rainfall in excess of 80 inches per year, creates a temperate rain forest in one of North Carolina’s newest state parks. This excursion occurred on Tuesday, July 17, 2012 from 7:15am to 11:30am. My plan was to take the short trail to Upper Whitewater Falls, then drive north on Hwy 281 to Gorges State Park for some exploration.

I went solo on this trip. Usually not a good idea out in the wilds, but there really wasn’t much to be concerned about on these trails. I left the house just before sunrise for what amounted to an 80 minute drive to Upper Whitewater Falls. I went through Brevard, past Rosman, and beyond Lake Toxaway as I looked for Hwy 281 South, also known as Whitewater Falls Road. Once on 281, it is nine miles to the turnoff for the falls. The Nantahala National Forest folks have done a nice job setting up a small park-like atmosphere out in the middle of nowhere. People can come see the falls, but stay and enjoy the day picnicking or playing with the family.

It’s a $2.00 day use fee for parking, a reasonable price for keeping the area maintained and safe. Look for the registration kiosk, grab one of the pink envelopes, then put the date and your vehicle plate number on the outside. Slide a couple bucks inside the envelope, seal it, and drop it back in the kiosk. Place the pass portion on your rear view mirror or dashboard so they know what day you are there, and you’re good to go.

As I approached the paved trail toward the falls, I saw a great view of the South Carolina upstate through the trees. The mountains aren’t quite as tall here as they are farther north, but they’re no less beautiful when shrouded with that typical early morning low-lying fog. I could make out Lake Jocassee to the southeast, and the edge of the Blue Ridge Escarpment.

The trail, or pathway, is paved and handicapped accessible. It curls past picnic tables, grills, and swings for the kids. It is relatively flat, although it does climb about 70 feet in the quarter mile length to the first overlook. When I reached the upper overlook, there it was straight ahead, the very large Upper Whitewater Falls. That’s the picture at the top of this post. Click it for a larger image.

In its 411 feet of length, there are three distinct tiers of water descent. At the top is a 70-80 foot free-fall as the Whitewater River rushes over the precipice. The top is perhaps the widest section of the falls, or at least it was on this mid-July day when the flow rate was probably somewhat low. Next, the water enters a cataract section as it spills over, around and under large black boulders strewn at the bottom of the initial plunge. From there, it enters a slide area as it continues its cascade down the gorge. It then free-falls another 200 feet before finally crashing loudly on the rocks below and heading to South Carolina.

There is another 200 foot waterfall just a scant couple miles across the state line, known as Lower Whitewater Falls, but that’s a hike for another day. That one is not as easily accessible.

There is a split-rail fence on the edge of the cliff at the upper overlook that will keep you from getting too close. It’s probably a good idea to heed the warning sign that advises not to stray away from the barrier. After all, it is a 400 foot fall into the gorge. Above the falls, to the north, is a beautiful mountain scene so typical in the southern Appalachians. The post-dawn bright blue sky filled with puffy white clouds made quite the picturesque scene.

But now it’s time to work for your viewing pleasure. You see, there is another lower overlook. A lot lower. Like 154 steps lower. There is a wood plank staircase built into the side of the gorge. It will drop 8-10 steps to a small landing platform, then turn to the left, or right, and drop another few steps. If you wish to go to the lower viewing platform, take just a moment to ponder your physical conditioning. It isn’t so tough to go down 154 steps, but consider what it will be like coming back up. It’s equivalent to climbing the stairwell in a 12-15 story building.

At the bottom of the stairs, the lower viewing platform is not particularly big, perhaps a 15 foot square. You can only see the falls from one side of the platform, so it might get kinda crowded down there on weekends or afternoons. But this day, before 8:00AM, I had the place to myself. I would recommend you do the same, especially if you’re looking for some solitude, or so you don’t feel rushed. It was nice to be able to setup my tripod and not have to worry about disturbing other visitors.

The lower overlook is halfway down the plunge of the waterfall, about the same height as the taller lower free-fall. Because there are trees growing all around, there is only a small window to view the falls, but it is spectacular. From the lower overlook, you can see the absolute bottom of the falls — where it crashes onto the rocks. You can’t see that from the top.

On the south corner of the platform is a trail that continues down into the gorge to meet the Foothills Trail. However, there is not another view of the falls down there. It heads the other direction.

Satisfied with the opportunity to enjoy the beautiful surroundings, after about 20 minutes it was time to climb up the stairs. I was determined to check my endurance and see if I could make it back up without stopping. I am, after all, a Meanderthal. Well, I made it! Yay! One of life’s little accomplishments. For those of you who are sensible, and don’t see the need to play these little head games, there are plenty of benches along the way to stop and take a breather.

The first part of my day was complete. It was time to get back in the car and head north to Gorges State Park. But first, there is a little viewing area of Whitewater Falls that is outside the fee area. If you go about 1/4 mile north on Hwy 281 from the Whitewater park, there is a pull-off on the side of the road as you crest the hill. There is a rock scramble up the hillside to a view of the top of the falls from the west side. Be careful, the rocks are pretty dangerous. It would be easy to stumble.

It’s an eight mile drive north on Hwy 281 from Whitewater Falls to the northwestern entrance to Gorges State Park. If you’re coming from Sapphire or Hwy 64, then it’s only a mile down 281. The park opens at 8:30AM.

Gorges is one of the state’s newest parks. The roads and infrastructure project, begun in 2007, is now complete and available for visitors. Located in the northwestern section of the park, the Bearwallow area is brand new. The picnic facilities have just recently opened and are still shiny, not sticky. The park Visitor Center remains under construction, and the trails just opened in July, 2012. It’s still a good idea to call ahead to inquire about the status of the park’s various amenities.

I am impressed with the quality of the loop road through this section of the park. The Visitor Center is probably 2/3 completed as of mid-July 2012, but it looks fancy. The trails, though, I’m not so sure about. I explored the newly opened Bearwallow Valley Overlook and Picnic Area Connector Trails, and was underwhelmed. It’s a nice stroll through the woods, but the tracks are covered in gravel. I suppose that makes for easier maintenance, but I prefer a more natural look.

Bearwallow Valley Overlook is an overlook of — wait for it — power transmission lines. All this property used to be owned by Duke Energy as a right of way for the lines from Lake Jocassee to Tuskaseegee in Jackson County. In the 1990s they sold and donated 7000 acres in the watersheds of the Toxaway River and Bearwallow Creek to the North Carolina Division of Parks and Recreation. Those acres are now Gorges State Park.

In fairness, you can see Lake Jocassee and Lake Keowee from the overlook, through the power lines. These two reservoirs were constructed by Duke Energy back in the 1960s for hydroelectric power generation.

It seems to me though, if they had continued the overlook trail just another couple hundred yards under the power lines there would be an unobstructed view of the two lakes, and the South Carolina upstate. Oh well, they didn’t ask me. Perhaps there are geologic, safety, or property rights reasons.

There are other trails that may be more enjoyable. There is a 1.5 mile trail to Upper Bearwallow Falls, and a strenuous three mile trail that starts within the state park boundary, but leaves to go to Rainbow Falls. Keep in mind, this is a new park that is still evolving.

Summary

If you want to see Lower Whitewater Falls, in South Carolina, lace up your hiking boots. It’s a two-mile hike to another far-away observation deck that overlooks the 200 foot cascade and the Jocassee Gorges area. There are four rivers and numerous creeks that flow into Lake Jocassee as they careen down the Blue Ridge Escarpment. Upper and Lower Whitewater Falls are just two among six waterfalls on the Whitewater River before it empties into the lake.

I thoroughly enjoyed Whitewater Falls. It is one of the more spectacular in the “Land of Waterfalls.” Try to go early in the morning if you can, to avoid the crowds. This isn’t a close up waterfall experience, but it doesn’t need to be because the falls is so large. You won’t feel the mist on your face, but your eyes will open wide and your ears will be filled with the sound of roaring, rushing water. I suspect this is a definite must see during fall foliage season.

Gorges State Park, on the other hand, is still trying. They aren’t quite ready for prime time yet. The trail system, at least so far, is ho-hum. I hope they have plans to construct trails down each of the gorges the park is named for. That would be some rugged, wilderness-type hiking. The Auger Hole and Canebrake Trails in the eastern section of the park are a whole lot more interesting. The western side of the state park is probably going to be a good summer weekend experience for families, but if you’re looking for hiking, stay on the east side.

Update October 2012: The park Visitor Center, Maintenance Facility, two Picnic Areas and two Restroom Facilities are now fully open and operating. The Visitor Center in particular is quite classy and adds considerable ambiance to the park.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Gorges State Park was developed as a unique partnership of industry, the environmental community and the state of North Carolina. In 1999 more than 10,000 acres of the Jocassee Gorges in Transylvania County were purchased by the state from Duke Energy Corporation. The transaction created a 2,900-acre Gameland managed by the N.C. Wildlife Resources Commission, as well as nearly 7,500 acres that has been designated as Gorges State Park. Because the park is so new, it is still in a planning and development phase. The roads and infrastructure project was completed in 2009, and is now open for park visitors. Work continues on the park Visitor Center, Maintenance Facility, two Picnic Areas and two Restroom Facilities. There are presently six finished hiking trails available for you and me. This hike occurred on Thursday, June 30, 2011 beginning at 8:45AM and ending about 4:50PM. Our plan was to start at the Frozen Creek Rd. entrance to the park, take the Auger Hole Trail 7.3 miles to the Foothills Trail, then continue 6.0 miles past Lake Jocassee to the Canebrake Trail. The final 5.0 miles is up Canebrake, the key word being up.

View Auger Hole Trail, Foothills Trail, and Canebrake Trail, Gorges State Park in a larger map

BoneheadBefore I get into this trail report, I have an admission to make. I, we, did not plan ahead well enough. We went into this hike knowing we were going to do a loop with the Auger Hole and Canebrake Trails… 12.3 miles. What we didn’t notice on the map was the 6.0 mile connector of the Foothills Trail between the two. Bonehead move! Yes, we are Meanderthals! So we ended up doing more than 18 miles in a hike that took 8 hours to complete. This was the longest day hike I have ever done. All three of us ran out of water — fortunately with less than a mile remaining. I hope I learned a lesson, and maybe you will too from my mistake. Especially when doing long hikes, or wilderness hikes, or demanding hikes — ALWAYS PLAN AHEAD! Look on the Internet for resources and information and trail reports like this site before you head out. We were fortunate. We all made it back without problem, tired certainly, but it could have been worse. Don’t be a bonehead.

The first 7/10 mile of the hike the Auger Hole and Canebrake trails are the same. It is a gravel trail that climbs a couple hundred feet to a junction of forest service roads. The Canebrake Trail heads left. We took the right fork for the Auger Hole trail to do the loop counterclockwise. The next few miles is a rather nondescript stroll mostly downhill through forest of soft and hard woods on a road wide enough for vehicles, but only open for hikes, bikes, and horses. We were surprised, though, to not see any foot, hoof, or tire prints. Apparently Gorges is still relatively unknown. The white rhododendron were in full bloom to greet us on this glorious morning. There are a number of other forest roads that take off the trail, but for now they are not in use. I suspect as the park grows and flourishes, these trails will become better documented. The Auger Fork Creek rushes to the left and below. We could hear several waterfalls as we passed them, including the Auger Hole and Maple Spring Branch, but bushwhacking was not on the agenda for this day.

What I will remember most about the first three miles on Auger Hole Trail is the industrial strength spider webs. These webs stood six feet tall and four feet wide. When I walked into one I was covered from head to foot. The surprise of being engulfed in spider silk almost knocked me down. I didn’t so much walk through them as bounce off them. I was spitting and sputtering and snotting and wiping my eyeballecules¹. Really got my attention, and my hiking buddies too. We each hit at least one. I think I got three or four.

After three miles we reached the Toxaway River. There is a concrete slab across the river bottom here from when there used to be vehicle traffic. This day the water was about 10 inches deep, so we shed our shoes and socks and waded across. I have read that this stretch of the river can really get roaring during spring runoff and that you should not cross on foot. Supposedly the current is so swift it will knock you down and carry you away. Keep that in mind when planning the time of year for this hike. After crossing, it’s then just another 1/2 mile to the next crossing at Bearwallow Creek. This one is not as wide, or quite as deep, but still required a barefoot scramble across loose rocks. After crossing, the trail climbs up and to the right about 1.5 miles to Turkeypen Gap. Here Chestnut Mountain Rd. comes down from Grassy Ridge and we took the left turn and continued to follow the orange blaze markers.

It’s a brief climb of perhaps a couple hundred feet to the top of Grassy Ridge where we encountered the Duke Energy power transmission lines for the first time. It does kind of interrupt the mood, however we actually had long distance views for the first time, including Misery Mountain. So the power lines are a mixed bag. The last 1/2 mile to the Foothills Trail junction is without question the steepest along this hike. For us, it was all downhill, but very treacherous. We took it slow and easy. Keep this in mind if you do this hike clockwise, there will be a killer climb the first half mile of Auger Hole Trail. At the trail junction we came back under the power lines again.

The Foothills Trail runs for 76 miles along the North and South Carolina state border and has a six mile stretch through Gorges State Park. We headed the easterly direction toward Lake Jocassee and the Canebrake Trail. The trail blaze switches to white. The next couple miles, as the Foothills Trail winded its way through dense forest, was some of the most beautiful lush, green and rich ground cover I have seen anywhere. There was moss, and ferns, and galax everywhere. And the trail itself was amazing. There are log rims along the edge of the trail and 4×4 steps in the steep sections that have obviously been there for decades. It reminded me of something I imagined when reading Tolkien. What is so incredible is that this section of trail is at least seven miles from any roads in any direction. The Foothills Trail was built way back in the 1960s when some of the forest roads in the area were still open to vehicular traffic.

About half way through the Foothills Trail we came upon the only other hiker we would see. Sitting alone in the forest, leaning against a tree, totally relaxed, reading his Kindle. What a remarkable way to spend the day. Miles from anywhere — only the birds and the squirrels and a good book — on electronic media. Half a mile further on it was time for us to relax as well. We took 15 to enjoy our lunch, get the packs off our shoulders, and take a load off our legs. We heard a hawk somewhere above, just reminding us there was a sky up there. The last mile of the Foothills Trail is a steady downhill as it approaches the very northern tip of Lake Jocassee. We could barely make out the lake through the trees, but when we finally reached lake level we could see clearly to the south. Then we had to go up and over one more small, but steep ridge before reaching our reward for 13 miles of hiking. Cool, crisp, flowing water.

There is a 265′ suspension bridge about 40 feet above the Toxaway River as it flows into Lake Jocassee. When I was a kid, it’s what we used to call a swinging bridge, because it indeed does that. Up and down, back and forth, it’s hard to get a rhythm to your stride when there are three loping Meanderthals crossing the bridge at the same time. The center of the bridge does offer a very nice view up the river and down the lake. At this time of year, the river was certainly crossable on foot, but the bridge would definitely be required in spring when the river is flowing faster, or if they do a release from the dam at Lake Toxaway upstream.

There is a great rocky, beachy area just under the suspension bridge. It was a bright sunny beautiful day, so we took to opportunity to go for a swim and soak our feet in the cool water of Toxaway River. That is until we were joined by an unwanted visitor. A mere eight feet away from where I was soaking my feet in the river was a copperhead sunning itself on the rocks. This wasn’t a big critter, maybe two feet long, but that’s all it takes to turn a delightful day into a miserable one. Needless to say, we got out of the water pronto and kept an eye on the interloper for the remainder of our stay. To show you how little I know about snakes, I had no idea copperheads were swimmers, but swim he did… in the pool right next to the rocks. It was still a terrific break from the trail, and the water felt refreshing and gave us the resolve to tackle the five mile climb up Canebrake Trail. I went back up on the bridge for a moment to take a few photos while it wasn’t swinging. One is the picture at the top of this post.

The Canebrake Trail is tough. There’s no other way to put it. Even if you just did a down and back on Canebrake it’s still a 10 mile round trip. The yellow blazed trail climbs about 1800 feet in five miles. Nowhere is it especially steep. It is a gradual but relentless slog up a forest service road that tested our will and drained our water. The forest along the trail is mostly hardwood, maples and oaks and birch. It is similar to the forest on the Auger Hole side of the loop. Throw in a few monster white pines and it is a beautiful forest. I understand this trail is loaded with wildflowers in May and early June. We were just a bit too late, unfortunately. But we did see some awesome mushrooms. Boy, did we! Some of them were 10 inches in diameter and every color in the rainbow. They looked like something out of Lewis Carroll. It took us about two and a half hours to do the full five miles. About 90 minutes into it we could see where Frozen Creek Rd. was paralleling the trail and thought maybe we were close, but no, we still had another hour to go. The last two miles were exceedingly tiresome.

This three trail loop is one I would recommend, in sections. Unless you enjoy long hikes, I think this could be more enjoyable in shorter portions. The Auger Hole Trail to the river crossing and back with some bushwhacking through the forest to the waterfalls would make a nice hike. The Foothills Trail was remarkable in its beauty and its exceptional maintenance. The only problem is getting to it. It’s a long way either direction. And Canebrake would be a nice hike to spend the day at the river and the lake and get some exercise. The touristy trails in Gorges State Park are on the west side of the park, but the less traveled eastern paths will definitely test your trail conditioning.

¹ Hat tip to Jann for coinage of the word.

Update October 2012: The park Visitor Center, Maintenance Facility, two Picnic Areas and two Restroom Facilities are now fully open and operating. The Visitor Center in particular is quite classy and adds considerable ambiance to the park.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.