Acrophobia? Then you may want to stay home for this one, or at least don’t go all the way. That was my choice when my life-long fear of heights (that I thought I had conquered) kicked in. Devils Causeway, the destination for this hike on East Fork Trail in Flat Tops Wilderness, is an extremely narrow backbone atop a rocky ridge named the Chinese Wall that drops precipitously 800 feet on each side. That would be your first bounce, then you would roll another 700 feet before coming to a rest. The good news is the trail to get there is quite beautiful with magnificent views of the surrounding Routt and White River National Forests. Get acclimated to high altitude before tackling this hike as you will be above 10,000 feet the entire way. Our hike occurred on Tuesday, October 1, 2013 from 8:15am to about 2:25pm. Our plan was to take East Fork Trail to the pass below the Chinese Wall, then climb the final pitch to Devils Causeway. We would return on the same trail.

This isn’t the first time my brother and I have been to Flat Tops Wilderness. A couple years ago we started at the same trailhead, but instead went to North Derby and Hooper Lake. The drive up into the wilderness from Yampa past the three reservoirs into the Flat Tops area was again quite scenic, although the water level in the reservoirs was 8-10 feet lower than our last visit. This is a beautiful area for camping and fishing, not to mention all the great hiking trails.

For this hike we started on the joint Bear River Trail/East Fork Trail that follows the north side of Stillwater Reservoir for about three quarters of a mile. We reached a junction where Bear River Trail continues west along the reservoir, and East Fork Trail turns north toward the wilderness. That was our choice.

Another quarter mile later, East Fork Trail enters the Flat Tops Wilderness boundary and passes a scenic mountain meadow that sits at the base of the Chinese Wall. The wall is a mile-long mesa that rises 1,500 feet above the valley. On the eastern end was our destination, the Devils Causeway. From this vantage point, the climb looks quite imposing.

For the next half mile East Fork Trail passes through a lodgepole pine and fir forest that will awaken your senses with the delightful aroma of evergreen. On this crisp October morning the air was very fresh. At the end of the forest, we reached Little Causeway Lake, another reservoir filled with cool mountain water much smaller than the others along Bear River Road.

From this point along the lake the climbing begins in earnest. The trail winds through a talus field, the crumbly remains of the breakdown of the cliff above and to the east. The lake remains on the left, and after climbing above the level of the pines that surround the lake, the view is quite splendid. All through the talus you can see the Causeway Pass straight ahead that is just below the Chinese Wall.

When we reached the end of the talus we entered a grand high mountain meadow shaped like a bowl and surrounded by cliffs to the east, north and west. It is a nice place to pause for a snack and survey the setting. Behind is the first glimpse of Flat Top Mountain and the pass we went through a couple years earlier on our way to North Derby and Hooper Lake. You can see the pathway to Causeway Pass… a series of long switchbacks that climb the steep bowl.

Climbing is never my favorite part of hiking, but I realize it’s a must if you want to view the scenery. So I sucked it up as we charged into the switchbacks, figuring I would be stopping frequently for breathers. 30 minutes later, it turned out not to be as strenuous as I imagined. While the pitch of the bowl is very steep, the designers of the switchback trails did a very nice job of minimizing the exertion.

So about two hours after we started, we reached Causeway Pass and got slammed with a wall of wind. No surprise. You have to figure this is a place that is always windy. It is very exposed, and surrounded by taller, flat mesas that help to swirl the wind through the pass. That wind was the first thing that made me nervous about the final pitch up the Chinese Wall.

The view north from the pass is stunning. The north side of the Chinese Wall mesa curves around forming a gull-winged-shape. The valley below is mixed forest and meadows and lakes, the closest being Lost Lake. That is the photo at the top of this post. You may click it for a larger image. The pass has patches of willow that added to the color of the scene on this mid-autumn day.

Looking back the way we had climbed, we could see the entire pathway. Flat Top Mountain is in the distance with Stillwater Reservoir below. Little Causeway Lake looked even smaller from this height above it. The bowl beneath the pass looks a long way down, and we noticed a couple of hikers coming up the talus field behind us.

Then, there is the final pitch up to the Devils Causeway. I would estimate about 300 feet of elevation gain in a quarter mile. There is an extreme drop off on each side. On this day it was snow and ice covered. Combine that with the wind and an extremely steep grade, and I wasn’t too keen on the idea of continuing. My brother tried to settle my nerves, suggesting it would be a shame to come all this way to stop short.

So I gave it a try. We took it very slow. The snow was quite slippery… occasionally we would take one step forward and slide two steps back. That is what concerned me the most. I kept imagining myself slipping and beginning a slide that wouldn’t end until I was an unrecognizable heep 1,500 feet below.

The higher we got the more jittery I became. My breathing was more like panting. All of my muscles were tense. I felt the dizziness of vertigo beginning to onset. We reached a point about two-thirds of the way up the pitch where I simply could go no further. I plopped down in the snow and told my brother I would wait for him right there, to take as long as he wanted up top.

It’s amazing how our phobias can completely control us. I could see the top from where I was, but my mind wouldn’t let my body continue. Had it been summer, I probably would have made it, but all I could envision was sliding off the mountain on the snow field. So I sat there. I took some pictures, but every time I looked up I got that queasy feeling that comes from acrophobia.

Instead I focused on the snow-covered ground in front of me. To my amazement I saw a small spider crawling across the snow… and then a fly… and then another fly. What in the world were these insects doing at 11,600 feet? A lone raven hovered in the wind above the pass. As long as I looked at the ground, or the sky, I was okay.

I waited patiently, about 25 minutes, while my brother explored the Devils Causeway. The pictures below of the views from the top were taken by him. Thanks to him for allowing me to share them with you. The picture captioned “looking down from the top” has tiny me in the center of the shot hunkered down in my snow seat.

As soon as he hollered at me from above that he was back, we both began our descent. I took a deep breath and carefully planted my boots in the snow, making sure I had solid footing before taking the next step. The sense of relief that washed over me when I reached the pass again and felt I was on solid ground was incredible. My muscles relaxed, my breathing returned to normal, and I whispered a little thank you to whoever was listening.

About the time we returned to the pass from above, the hikers we had seen behind us reached the pass. A young couple, we chatted for a moment, then they set out on the final pitch through the snow. We watched as she just zoomed right up, but he looked more trepidatious, like me. He paused several times to survey his surroundings before finally proceeding. To his credit, he too eventually made it to the top.

We grabbed a bite to eat and began the descent back into the south-side bowl. We could see another pair of hikers approaching and our paths crossed about half way down the switchbacks. Later, when we reached the talus field, we could see this 2nd couple actually crossing the Devils Causeway. There’s a photo of them below. Ah, the courage of youth.

The air had warmed considerably since the morning and made for near perfect hiking weather. We took our time, enjoying the scenery on the way down. We could see the wind whipping across Little Causeway Lake creating that shimmering effect as it raced across the surface.

With the afternoon light, the meadow at the wilderness boundary had an awesome golden glow. The marshy little ponds reflected the azure blue sky. Our eyes followed the rim of the Chinese Wall as it curved from west to south thinking it might be a nice future hike to approach from the other end.

When we reached the junction with Bear River Trail, I said let’s go out this way a bit and see what the west end of Stillwater Reservoir looks like. That’s also how you get to the other end of the Chinese Wall. The trail along the reservoir was mellow, and the willows were glimmering a bright yellow in the sunshine.

We setup the tripod, took some self-portrait photos, and enjoyed the lake-side scene.

To summarize, I have thoroughly enjoyed both of my visits to Flat Tops Wilderness. It is unique country with a little something for everyone. There are plenty of lakes to enjoy, high mountain meadows, both willow and evergreen forest, and vistas as far as the horizon. The geology of the flat tops on the mountains is quite fascinating.

Now, having said that, do you want to do this hike? If you have the slightest fear of heights, this one might be tough for you. Perhaps consider just going as far as Causeway Pass because the view on the north side is magnificent. If acrophobia doesn’t bother you, then be one of the brave who crosses the Devils Causeway. It will be a rewarding experience.

I would be remiss if didn’t give a tip of the cap to Penny’s Diner in Yampa. After we finished our hike, we were kinda hungry, so we stopped at Penny’s in this tiny old-west town. I ordered a jalapeno burger and have to say it is the best hamburger I have had in the last 25 years. My brother’s grilled chicken salad was also scrumptious. So if you go hiking in Flat Tops Wilderness, I highly recommend stopping at Penny’s Diner either before or after. They are open 24 hours.

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.

Flat Tops Wilderness is the second largest U.S. Wilderness Area in Colorado. Located near the towns of Yampa and Steamboat Springs, it is 235,214 acres, with 38,870 acres in Routt National Forest and 196,344 acres in White River National Forest. The area is named for a series of flat top mountains that dominate the landscape. This is sub-alpine and alpine terrain with beautiful mountain ponds and lakes, rich evergreen forest, grassy marshes, and craggy tundra. The elevation ranges from 7,600 to 13,000 feet. There are 160 miles of trails in the designated wilderness area. This hike occurred on July 22, 2011 beginning at 8:35AM and ending about 3:30PM. Our plan was to take the North Derby Trail from the Stillwater Reservoir to the pass that separates the White River and Yampa watersheds, then down the other side on the Hooper Lake Trail to the base of Derby Peak where we would find Hooper and Keener Lakes. We would return along the same trails.

View North Derby and Hooper Lake Trails, Flat Tops Wilderness in a larger map

It’s always refreshing to hike in Colorado. The air is thin, crisp and clean; the sky a deep royal blue; the forests magnificent and the views breathtaking. To get to Flat Tops Wilderness, my brother and I drove through the Old West town of Yampa, and on to Forest Road 900 past the reservoirs fed by the Bear River. There are three separate, and stunningly blue reservoirs, with the trailhead parking at the third, Stillwater. Immediately we were met with what would be the theme for Phase I of this hike.

Later in the day, we concluded this was a hike of three phases:

• Phase I — The mosquitos, also known as the rich spruce/fir forest and ponds
• Phase II — The wind, also known as the pass, covered with awesome tundra
• Phase III — The swamp, also known as the gorgeous lake and waterfall area

As soon as we got out of the car, we were swarmed with mosquitos, frankly quite unusual for Colorado and a touch disconcerting. We quickly slathered on another layer of repellent creme and started moving. The trail immediately splits, with the East Fork and Bear River Trails heading to the right, and our trail, the North Derby, going left across the dam of Stillwater Reservoir. This dam crossing offered a preview of the surrounding wilderness. We could see the snow-covered Yampa/White River Pass that would be our first destination to the south, and the ring of flat topped mountains surrounding us that give the wilderness its name.

Across the dam, there is a sign where the North Derby Trail drops down and winds its way for about 10 minutes through a series of meadows and ponds. After .8 mile there is another sign at the forest edge that marks the beginning of the Flat Tops Wilderness. From here the trail begins a steady ascent that will eventually climb about 1200 feet to the pass. The forest is beautiful, filled with spruce and fir… and mosquitos. Every time we would pause momentarily for a breather, it would only take a few seconds before there were 100 mosquitos swarming on my arms and legs. Fortunately I was wearing Smartwool merino wool, so they weren’t directly on my skin, but I got out the 30% deet stick and covered my clothes just to be sure. I have never seen mosquitos that thick, especially in Colorado. We began wishing for some wind.

When you’re hiking the North Derby Trail, be sure to turn around occasionally and check out what is behind you. As we climbed higher and higher, we soon got remarkable views of Stillwater Reservoir and the flat tops that stand above it to the north. We could see the Devils Causeway Trail winding its way up to the pass on the other side. After almost two miles we approached the final steep climb to the pass. Even in late July, the trail was still covered by a snow field. 2011 was a particularly snowy winter in Colorado, so the melting has taken weeks longer than normal. We encountered quite a bit of snow above 11,000 ft. the entire week I was visiting. We found a way through the woods around most of the snow, but we still had to climb the final 30-40 feet by very carefully digging our shoes into the snow.

Y’know how they say, “Be careful what you wish for. You just might get it.” When we topped the pass, we got that wind we had wished would blow the mosquitos away. Boy, did we! With that, Phase II of the hike began. The pass is 11,200 ft. and you can climb further, another 200 feet, to get an awesome view of Hooper Lake and Derby Peak. That’s the photo at the top of this post. On top of that mountain I bet the wind was blowing at least 35 mph with higher gusts. But there weren’t any mosquitos. The national forest changes from White River to Routt at the pass, and the watershed changes as well. The ground is the amazing alpine tundra so prevalent in the Colorado high country. We hit peak summer wildflower season and the mountains put on quite a show. I found myself several times during the week singing to myself, “The hills are alive, with The Sound of Music!” Yep, I know. I’m a geek.

After several pictures, the wind got the best of us and we went down to the pass level for a snack. It was still pretty windy, so we found some barricade behind a willow thicket to check the map before proceeding onward to the lakes. Since it is wilderness, there are no signs, but the trail changes from North Derby to Hooper Lake at the pass. There is a beautiful view to the south of the Sawatch and Gore ranges in the far distance, and the grassy meadows down below the pass. As the trail dropped a couple hundred feet we got relief from the wind, and thank goodness, no mosquitoes on the south side of the pass. Then a couple more hundred feet lower we noticed it. We had begun Phase III of this hike.

Suddenly the lush mountain meadow was a marshland. Squish, squish, squish with each succeeding step. Again, the late snow melt was making itself apparent. The further into the meadow we went, the deeper the swampy conditions became. So we decided it best to get off trail and head for higher ground. We knew the lakes were at the base of Derby Peak, so we stayed in the rocks and trees as we headed that general direction. Our plan worked fine, as we arrived at Hooper Lake 15 minutes later with dry feet. We were treated to a very nice surprise as the waterfall that plummets 200 feet from the flat top into Keener Lake was still roaring away. Again, because of the late snow melt, the waterfall that is normally gone by late June was hanging around another month just for us to enjoy.

There was plenty of downed timber surrounding Hooper Lake, so we pulled up a couple seats and enjoyed our lunch in this captivating scene. The lake was mirroring the snow on the mountains above and the spruce that surrounded the lake filled me with a luscious scent. We were all alone. We hadn’t seen another soul since the trailhead, and all those folks were heading to the Devil’s Causeway on the other side of the wilderness. About the only thing that could have made this tranquil experience more enriched would have been wildlife.

After lunch we continued south another 1/2 mile through the rocks and forest toward Keener Lake. This time we weren’t quite as lucky as we got stymied by some downed trees. After bushwhacking a bit, we found our way to the original trail and continued to the next sight. There is a spur trail that goes about 1/4 mile to Keener Lake. We encountered another swamp on our way there, this one quite significant. It was roll up the pant legs time. I was extremely pleased the GoreTex® liner in my shoes kept my socks almost completely dry. Amazing stuff. The view of the waterfall from Keener Lake was even more impressive. Keener is the larger of the two lakes, and a bit more out in the open. We took the trail about a third of the way around the southwest side of the lake, pausing to look at the little fish swimming in the crystal clear water. There were mountains to the west and north, forest to the east and south.

There are two more lakes along the Hooper Lake trail, Edge and Bailey. We debated going to Edge Lake, but it would be about another two mile round trip and it was approaching 2:00PM and time for the afternoon thunderstorms to possibly appear. So we opted to take our time on the way back to the reservoir and simply enjoy the scenery again. We stuck more to the trail through the marsh on the way back and managed to stay mostly dry. We did encounter field after field of amazing wildflowers including alpine avens, buttercups, paint brush, blue bells and lupine. As we began the 400 foot climb back up to the pass, we met the first and only other hikers we saw on this trail. It was a middle-aged couple and their three teenage kids, who were every bit as enthralled with the surroundings as we were.

It was dicey going back down the snow field on the north side of the pass, but we both made it without falling and sliding a hundred feet down the hill. Much to our relief, the mosquitos were not out in the afternoon in the forest like they had been in the morning. At one of the steep stretches down through the forest, we stopped to do a little trail maintenance. There was a 30′ log lodged across the trail quite precariously that was an accident waiting to happen. So we scrambled up the hillside and rolled the log safely out of everyone’s way. The rest of the hike was great conversation about what a delightful day this had been. I get out to Colorado every couple years, but frequently travel to other states while I’m there. The next time I am hiking in Colorado I will absolutely consider some of the other trails in Flat Tops Wilderness. Beautiful!

This post was created by Jeff Clark. Please feel free to use the sharing icons below, or add your thoughts to the comments. Pack it in, pack it out. Preserve the past. Respect other hikers. Let nature prevail. Leave no trace.